your home sewing machine

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Your

Home

Sewing

Machine

UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE

Home and Garden Bulletin 38 January 1954

Far aide br (he Sapcriatendmt «f DMomrato, V. S. <3«T«rmieiit Printtaf Ofllce WuUnfton 2S. D. C. - PrkeUeeato

Guide for the Reader— Page

Plan ahead ^ Choice of machines ^ Personally inspect. * Secondhand machines :._---- 3 Look for "EASY TO USE'' features > 4 Try out the machines for "GOOD OPERATION'' .—. 6 Check on "ADJUSTMENTS".. - — - « Consider "EASY TO CARE FOR" factors--.... — ^ 8 Inspect for "LONG LIFE" design...... ..—.,.- -----« 8 Keep in mind ...--...-,- 10

Light ..--.-.. 10 Paint finish - Jj Zigzag sewing...-- ...-.- ..-- — ---- 10 Types of motor controls .-. - ._,.----..-. 11 Service agreements and certificates of guwrantee.----— 11

Reminders — -..-...---.----------.---- 12

This publication is intended as an aid for home demonstration and 4-H Club agents in answering questions on how to buy sewing machines. It should be helpful as a guide for homemakers and their husbands to use in judging for themselves the type of sewing machine that wiU best serve their needs. Prepared by a committee composed of: Ruth Enoch and

Waldo Bell, of the West Virginia Extension Service; Helen Shelby and A. V. Krewatch, of the Maryland Extension Service; W. C. Krueger, of the New Jersey Extension Service; and Alice Linn, of the Federal Exten- sion Service, United States Department of Agriculture.

WashingtoB, D. C.

Buying Your

Home Sewing

Machine

The purchase of a sewing machine for home use is a lifetime investment. Machines of reputable manufacture are built to last for generations, with only minor replacement of inexpensive parts. The cleaningi oiling, and adjusting of machines are witiiin the ability of any homemaker and are the major maintenance neces- sary for continued good service.

Today's choice of machines gives a wide range to fit the pur- chaser's needs and purse. It is often a bit confusing to make a decision. Your present needs may change as the family grows or the children leave to establish their own homes. No one machine is likely to have all the features you consider desirable, so a com- promise is in order in selecting the machine that you consider best suited to your present and possible future needs.

Plan Ahead

Part of your decision should be made at home before looking at different makes of machines.

The first point to settle is the kind of sewing for which you are buying the machine. Many homemakers use their machines only for occasional plain sewing, for patching, mending, or darning, or for the making of simple garments. For this work a straight- sewing machine is satisfactory. This type may be preferred by the woman whose chief interest is fine dressmaking and tailoring and who has little use for machine-made decorative effects.

The more versatile swing-needle or zigzag-type machines that have recently come into use are designed to handle a wider range

281907—54

in stitch styles and such specialty sewing as decorative stitching and embroidery; the making of home furnishings, place mats, and napkins ; and seam finishing and buttonholes. These machines, in part, do the jobs intended for the attachments that can be bought for the straight-sewing machines—and which are so seldom used. Your decision here is whether the specialty job will be done often enough to warrant the added cost.

Choice of Machines Another choice is between cabinet and portable machines. A

cabinet with well-supported leaves and sturdy legs gives good sewing support and is ready for instant use. There are many cabinets to choose from for any one machine head. Since its mam purpose is to house the machine, choose the cabinet for comfort, sturdiness, and convenience. The extra cost of a fancy cabinet may better be invested in useful furniture. However, choices m cabinets allow a selection that will fit in with any type of home furnishing. . i- .4. j •

The portable is the usual choice where space is limited, as m small homes and apartments, or where a machine must often be moved from place to place. Some portables are fitted with an extension table for greater work surface; all can be set into a heavy worktable flush with the top to give the same stability and work area as cabinet machines. Some portables are merely the regular sewing head sometimes inadequately wired and set into a cheap, heavy, and unwieldy carrying case; but portables can be purchased with base and carrying case designed for the machine—sturdy and well finished. The choice between lightweight and regular-head

portables depends partly on how much bulky sewing or mending of heavy fabrics will be done.

You also have a choice between the long-shuttle machines and the round-bobbin types. The long-shuttle mechanism is simple and direct, usually easier and quicker to clean and oil, but noisier and not designed for as high-speed operation as the round-bobbin class. Unless especially balanced, these machines are not well adapted to electric motors. The round-bobbin machines are either oscillating or rotary. They are usually smoother in operation and better balanced for higher speed.

Personally Inspect A personal inspection of a variety ctf machines will help you

decide on the one best suited to your purpose. Visit your friends and neighbors, and the dealers, and check the features of one machine against another. You want to choose a machine that is easy to handle and operate, is readily adjusted to your varying sewing needs, and is easy to care for and keep in perfect running order.

The following points are offered as a guide in making your comparison.

Secondhand Machines Considerations given to buying a new machine also apply to

secondhand or rebuilt machines. Knowing the dealer is reputable is even more important, however, because the machine is not new. Many of the secondhand machines of the foot-treadle type can be motorized at a small cost. It is best not to motorize a machine if it vibrates when foot-treadled at high speeds.

Yes No

Look for **EASY TO USE" features:

1. Is the njpper tension setting shown by markings that are easy to see?

2. Does the lamp throw light where yon need it?.

3. Is the lamp placed so that it will not born yon daring normal use of the machine) for in- stance, when raising the presser foot?.,

4. Is the sfitch-length control scale easy to read?.

5. Will the machine stitch backwards?

6. Are there adjustable stop positions for the forward and reverse stitching control?.... .

7« Is the upper thread tension released when the presser foot is raised?..

S. Can the pressure on the presser foot be re^ leased for darning and embroid^y? __.

9. Is there a footrest on the electric foot control?.

Control

Blank circles have been used to show the appropriate locatH»i of some of the important parts, because the design of the machines and the parts vary so greatly.

upper TOMIQB Here

Bobbin Winder

Satch - Length Control Forward and Reverse Control

Try out the machines for "GOOD OPERATION'':

1. Is the machine quiet and free from objectionable noise and vibration?, L ____

2. Does the machine run smoothly at all speeds? .

3. Is the knee or foot electric motor control comfortable for you to use? ^

4. Does the motor start smoothly, providing easy starting as well as slow running?

5. Is the machine easy for you to thread?.-.!—

6. Is thé bobbin easy to take out and put back?.

7. Is the bobbin easy for you to thread?

8. Try the machine <m some of your own mate- rials, both straight and curved seams. Is it easy to guide when stitching curved seams?.-- .___----

9. Notice whether the material has a tendency to drift to right or left, whether one layer of material tends to creep over the other during sewing. Does the machine satisfy you in this respect?

10. Is the bobbin winder easy to use and does it fill the bobbin evenly?

Check on ^^ADJUSTMENTS'': 1. Is the bottom tension conveniently located

and easy to adjust?_ _ _ _ _ _

2. Are the tension adjustments clearly explained in the instruction book?

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Yes No

Lower Tension—Rotary or Oscillating AH machines proYÎde adjustment

for upper and lower tensions. Most upper tensions are fitted with a thumb knob and have markings that show the setting. The lower tension is adjusted with a small screw- driver. The tension adjustments should be clearly explained in the instruction book that will be furnished with your machine.

Lower Tension—Rotary or Oscillating

Lower Tenslonr—Long Shuttle

Yes No

3. Is the stitch-length control eas]^ to use?......

4. Can the toothed feed dog be dropped out of the way for darning and embroidering?..._

5. If the feed dog can be dropped, is the adjustment easy to get to? . ...

Consider ^'EASY TO CARE FOR'' factors: 1. Are the cover plates easily remoTable and all

parts readily accessible for cleaning, oiling, and greasing?

2* Is the wiring protected against oil drip?

3. Is the light bulb easy to replace?

4. Is the machine easy to dust and wipe clean?..

Inspect for ''LONG LIFE" design: 1. Is the wiring located where it will not be

pinched, and is it protected against wear?... .

2. Are adjustments provided for wear between moving parts?

3. Is the cabinet well constructed; are hinges sturdy, legs well braced, and is the leaf well supported and level when opened?

4. Are the service parts carried in stock?

It is easy to tell if the machine has a long shuttle or round bobbin by looking at it. Round- bobbin machines are either oscillating or rotary. The ro- tating hook on an oftdllating machine turns back and forth, while on a rotary machine it continues to turn in one

> direction«

Rotary

Feed Dog Drop

Here or Here

Keep in Mind Light

Sewing machine lights help when threading and using a machine. They do not provide enough illumination for regular sewing and should be supplemented by a good local light such as a floor lamp. Often the kind of sewing machine lamp, its position, and the type of paint finish on the machine, combine to reflect suffi- cient light to produce an objectionable glare. Frosted lamp bulBs, diffusing covers for the lamp, or a choice of paint finish, can help reduce this glare.

Paint Finish Machines finished with a smooth, glossy surface are easiest to

keep cjèàri, but light reflections may prove annoying. Some manu- facturers recognize the effect of color on eyestrain and finish their machines in green,, brown, or tan. Others use a crackle surface to prevent glare, but this may reflect many points of light as dis- turbing as the glare from a gloss finish.

Zigzag Sewing Most straight-sewing machines can be fitted with attachments

such as the one for buttonholes that shifts the cloth from side to side, creating a zigzag stitch. The tígzag sewing machine swings the needle bar from side to side, producing a stitch that can be used for a wide variety of effects. Most of these machines swing the needle to both sides of the center sewing line, white a few move only to the right or to the left. A greater variety of decorative stitches is possible when the needle swings to both right and left.

10

Skül in operation is required to develop a. uniform pattern or design with the lever or dial controls operated by hand. Some machines are built to use a template which automatically produces a particular pattern without using lever or dial. Seli«feionof tern- plates gives a wide variety of diesigns, some of which téqüií« con- siderable practice to do by hand operaticWK "^pes of Motor Controls '

There are two types of motor controils used vnth sewing ma- cbînés—the step control and the carbon control. The step control changes the speed in a series of steps or jumps; usually 5 to 8 from slow speed to fast speed. With some inaçhmes the first step of this type of control does not pYovide the slow speed required at times in sewing operations. The carbon icohtiol increases the speed from slow to fast^moothly and uniformly, resulting in easier control of speed, especially when starting and at very slow speeds. Service Agreements and Certificates of Guarantee

Know your dealer. Has he a reputation for giving good service' Most dealers who sell sewing machines offer some form of guarantee and free service agreement. The guarantee protects the buyer against the possibility of inferior or defective parts, or concealed damage, for varying periods of time after purchase. The free service period also places the responsibiliiy on the seller to correct any defect in adjustment or parts other than normal wear at no charge to the buyer.

These agreements should be in writing and signed by an agent who has satisfactory credentials. Verbal agreements are unsatis- factory because they may be impossible to prove or because the exact sense of such agreements depends upon memory.

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Reminders

1. Don't be afraid to ask questions about the things you want to know»

2. Take time to select the make and model of machine to fit your needs before choosing the cabinet.

3. Select a cabinet for comfortable sewing and utility and not for decorative features alone.

4. Sew long enough to satisfy yourself as to what the machine will do.

5. Operate the machine in order to determine that the knee control is not too far to the right and the needle is not too far to the left for you to sit comfortably.

6. Upon delivery, be sure your machine sews as well as the one demonstrated. Service adjustments are best made before the free service or guarantee period runs out

7. Learn to use and operate your machine. Also learn to make the adjustments, such as tension, stitch length, and presser foot control. Oil and grease it according to the manufac- turer's instructions. Valuable information is contained in the United States Department of Agriculture Farmers' Bul- letin No. 1944, Sewing Machines—Cleaning and Adjusting, for sale by the Superintendent of Documents, United States Government Printing Office, Washington 25, D. C, price 15 cents.

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13 U. s. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1984

other Publications on Sewing Machines and Sewing

These publications are available from the United States Depart- ment of Agriculture, Washington 25, D. C.

Pattern Alteration. Farmers' Bui. 1968. Fitting Dresses. Farmers' Bui. 1964. Making a Dress at Home. Farmers' BuL 1954. Sewing Machines : Cleaning and Adjusting. Farmers' Bui.

1944. ABC's of Mending. Farmers' Bui. 1925. Coat Making at Home. Farmers' BuL 1894. Slip Covers for Furniture. Farmers' Bui. 1873. Mending Men's Suits. Misc. Pub. 482. How To Tailor a Woman's Suit. Home and Garden Bui. 20. Fitting Coats and Suits. Home and Garden Bui 11.

Filmstrips

Information about the purchase of these filmstri|K3 can be obtained by writing to the Extension Service, United States Dqf^rtment of Agriculture, Washington 25, D. C. These are not available for loan.

Making a Girl's Dress. «5 frames. No« 6ÍIML Slip Covers fpr Straight Chairs. 64 frames. No. 592. Slip Covers for Upholstered Chairs. 65 frames. No. 591. Fitting Dresses. Color, 31 frames. No. C-13.

Motion Pidwre

Information about the availability of this motion picture can be obtained either from your State college or from the Motion Picture Service, Office of Information, United States Department of Agri- culture, Washington 2S, D. C.

Truly Yours—the Dress that Fits. 16mm, color, sound, 18 minutes.