Fuerteventura, 26th - 29th January 2018 Written by Craig Reed

Plate 1. The plains to the NW of La Oliva (Craig Reed)

Overview

With the presence of a number of rare and scarce bird species on the island of

Fuerteventura, to complement the expected range of resident endemic species and

subspecies, combined with cheap flights, a last-minute plan was hatched for a whistle-stop

tour of the island. Trip reports have shown that a long weekend on the island allows for

enough time to cover the island well - at least for the resident species on the island, and the

extra time could be spent trying to find the rarer species. With current popularity being high

among birders due to the presence of Dwarf Bittern at a well watched barranco, current

information was easy to find. The trip was organised in late December, by which time a host

of rare and scarce species had been discovered wintering on the island, providing further

interest to the already exciting list of possible species on the island.

Logistics

Flights were booked direct from Ryanair with a direct flight between Birmingham (BHX) and

Fuerteventura airport (FUE). Flight times were ideal for a long weekend trip, with an early

departure on Friday (arriving at 11am) and late departure (6pm) on Monday resulting in

almost an extra day on the island. This cost around £60 per person, plus the cost of hold

luggage, which our group had one 20kg case for tripods and a spare set of clothes. Optics

were held in hand luggage, although recent changes to terms of service at Ryanair resulted

in us also buying the ‘priority boarding’ to allow us to carry this without the fear of it being

placed in the hold at the gate.

Accommodation was booked via Booking.com. This was filtered to low cost to reduce the

cost of the trip and to place ourselves with decent access across the island. We booked

‘Casa Rural Casa del Cuartel’ in La Oliva due to its easy access to the plains around

Tindaya which proved excellent for our needs. The accommodation included comfy beds, a

lounge area and cooking/ washing facilities. It held our group of three comfortably. Being

within the small town, a small shop and an excellent pizzeria (Restaurante Pizzería Mucho

Gusto) were a couple of minutes’ walk away. This cost around £50 a night.

Car hire was via Hertz-Thrifty. We booked a people carrier which worked, however we would

suggest booking a 4x4 if intending to visit some of the more ‘off the beaten track’ locations,

as some roads were on the rough side! With a fair chunk of birding (and photo opportunities)

taking place from the car, it would also be preferable to make sure both the front and rear

seat windows can be opened so everyone can manage an equally good view. Hire of a

Renault Kangoo cost £92 for the duration of our trip - with unlimited miles. Despite the extent

of travelling we did, we managed the whole trip on a single tank of diesel, and refilling for

delivery back to the airport proved cheap in filling stations near Caleta de Fuste.

Resources

Being familiar with European birds, our group held only a digital copy (IOS) of the Collins

Bird Guide on the trip, however we did carry paper copies of both the Dave Gosney ‘Finding

Birds in the Canary Islands’ and Crossbill guides ‘Canary islands I: Lanzarote and

Fuerteventura (2014). Brief reference was taken from the out of date ‘Birds of the Atlantic

Islands’ (Clarke, 2006) at home, however the status of many species has since changed on

the island. This could have been addressed by reference to the new ‘Birds of the Canary

Islands’ (Garcia del Rey, 2018)

Pre-trip information was sought from eBird (eBird.org) filtered to recent reports, and this

gave some indication of general locations and abundance of species. For some species,

information found here resulted in our only sightings of that species for the trip.

Throughout the trip, reports via the Facebook group ‘Birding Canary Islands (SOC)’ and up

to date information was received directly from Eduardo Garcia del Rey, who we thank for

being so accommodating to allow the trip to run as smoothly as possible.

Daily discussion

26/01/18

(Barranco de la Torre/ Salinas de Carmen/ Barranco de Rio Cabras/ La Oliva and surrounds)

We made the decision to target the rarest birds on the island first and the airport being only a

few kilometres from Barranco de la Torre, this was chosen as our first site to head towards.

We parked near the western end of the barranco near where it crosses below the FV-2,

slightly to the north of a large area of tamarisk which held our target species. A male

Tristram’s Warbler had been refound in the barranco a couple of days previously (having

been unreported for a significant time) so news was a little vague as to its location. Using

information posted on Facebook about the previous days sighting, we found the area fairly

easily (28.372527, -13.908528). As soon as we had parked we soon started picking up

species, with our first Berthelot’s Pipit scurrying around the car. A short walk down the

dried riverbed soon revealed a variety of warbler species, with Spectacled and Sardinian

Warbler both being common. Further down the streambed, we quickly found the male

Tristram’s Warbler, which gave excellent views for around 15 minutes before retreating into

dense tamarisks.

Plate 2. Tristram’s Warbler - Barranco de la Torre (Craig Reed)

We started moving northwards following a brief stop at Salinas de Carmen where a single

Sandwich Tern passed offshore. Further up the FV-2 over the Fuerteventura golf course, a

flock of around 20 Swifts feeding over the water gave brief views. These were probably Plain

Swifts as had been seen here recently. A further Plain Swift gave much better views near

the airport.

We arrived at Barranco de Rio Cabras in the early afternoon and made our way down to the

dams. Again, Berthelot’s Pipit were very common here on the stony ground above the

uppermost dam. At the ridge looking downstream, a number of species could be seen.

Black-winged Stilts, Greenshanks, Little Egrets, Ruddy Shelducks and Little Ringed

Plover fed around the small pool behind the dam, but one of our main targets were

immediately obvious, with a pair of Canary Island Stonechat showing very well just below

our viewpoint. A number of Trumpeter Finches flew around calling and a Common Kestrel

(endemic subspecies) flew along the ridge as we made our way down to the fabled ‘bittern

bush’ (28.475682, -13.903312). As we crossed the dam, we quickly saw the Dwarf Bittern

below its favoured bush and we put ourselves in a position opposite for further views. After a

while, excellent views were had as it fed below us in the remaining puddles in the

streambed.

Plate 3. Dwarf Bittern - Barranco de Rio Cabras (Craig Reed)

Plate 4. Canary Island Stonechat - Barranco de Rio Cabras (Craig Reed)

We spent a good time in the barranco, where we enjoyed great views of good numbers of

the Canary Island Stonechat (at least 6), Common Buzzard and Barbary Ground

Squirrel. The wind was strong, and so many birds were obviously using the site to provide

shelter. Above us soared the ubiquitous Raven flocks, however among them and the

Buzzards we came across a couple of Egyptian Vultures.

Picking up our keys for our accommodation in La Oliva, we arrived slightly early so explored

around the walled areas. Good number of Trumpeter Finches and Spanish Sparrows

were here as well as a roaming flock of Hoopoe. Following a quick break, we drove the

short distance to La Oliva sewage works (28.604766, -13.931453) to check out a report of

Marbled Duck. We failed to find these, but good numbers of birds were using the wetland

area, including Common Moorhens and Ruddy Shelduck. Seven Cattle Egret roosting

were our first of the trip and the surrounding bushes provided a flock of Corn Buntings, with

also good numbers of Common Chiffchaff, Spectacled Warbler and a few Meadow

Pipits. Using the Gosney guide, we visited the area to the NW of La Oliva, which had been

highlighted as a pre-roost for Houbara Bustard and Cream-coloured Courser. We drove the

track for an hour and a half and saw very little other than a few Raven, Buzzard and

Bertholot’s Pipit.

27/01/18

(Tindaya Plains/ Betancura/ Barranco de Palomares/ Los Molinos goat farm/ El Cortillo)

We arrived at Tindaya Plains (28.605020, -14.000573) at dawn (around 07:30) as we had

been told this was the best time to locate the endemic race of Houbara Bustard. It wasn’t

long before we managed to see our first - about 1.5km NW of the village, which, as we had

hoped was feeding right beside the road. With it still being dark, we watched the bird as it

wandered into vegetation south of the road. A large flock of Lesser Short-toed Lark were

feeding just beyond this, and easily numbered 200+ individuals. Among this mega flock, a

single Eurasian Skylark was found, but with the flock being highly mobile, this prevented

further scrutiny. We drove further NW, where a further pair of Houbara were found, and

these proved very photogenic, even allowing digiscoping from the passenger seat across the

bonnet in 50mph winds! Later, a displaying male was found running around the plain

Plate 5. Houbara Bustard - Tindaya Plains (Craig Reed)

Plate 6. Cream-coloured Courser - Tindaya Plains (Craig Reed) Plate 7. Houbara Bustard - Tindaya Plains (Craig Reed)

Driving back towards Tindaya, the lark flock was again showing well, but a party of four

Cream-coloured Courser stole the show as they scurried across the plain. Good, but

distant views were had, and these proved to be the only CCC of the trip. As we watched

these, a single Black-bellied Sandgrouse flew over.

From here, we drove south to look for a variety of species around Betancuria and the

surrounding mountains. We stopped about 1-2km south along the FV-30 (28.419249, -

14.059448), in a sheltered barranco with lots of vegetation. A Southern Grey Shrike was

showing very well, and a Paridae-like call alerted us to our first African Blue Tit of the trip.

This area proved very ‘birdy’ with good numbers of Goldfinch, Spanish Sparrows,

Chiffchaffs and Sardinian Warblers. A single Canary Island Stonechat was also found

here, as well as a Red Admiral. A pair of Atlantic Canary were found here, but proved

very elusive, with brief views of the female for one member of the group, while a male sang

unobserved in dense vegetation.

Knowing of another site for Atlantic Canary we moved a few kilometres further south to

Barranco de Palomares (28.403217, -14.060488), which again proved to be excellent with a

good range of species. The main highlight here proved to be great views of a very bright

yellow male Atlantic Canary (one of a pair), as well as good numbers of Sardinian

Warbler, Spectacled Warbler, Trumpeter Finch and a couple of ‘CI’ Stonechats. African

Blue Tit were showing very well here. A few Plain Tiger butterflies were noted in the more

sheltered spots. We stopped briefly in Betancuria to check out some nice-looking habitat, but

the wind resulted in most birds keeping a low profile.

Coming away from the mountains, we visited Los Molinos goat farm (28.505619, -

14.022304), as recent reports indicated excellent viewing of CCC and Black-bellied

Sandgrouse. We managed to find the dirt track into the goat fields (Gosney p.27) and found

Plate 8. Atlantic Canary - Barranco de Palomares (Rob Clipson)

Plate 9. Plain Tiger - Barranco de Palomares (Rob Clipson) Plate 10. African Blue Tit - Barranco de Palomares (Craig Reed)

very good numbers (80+) of Black-bellied Sandgrouse, feeding from the hay. Good

numbers of Ruddy Shelduck were overflying the site from the nearby reservoir and a small

flock of Corn Bunting were found in the hedgerow.

With the day coming to an end, we tried a seawatch off El Cortillo (28.682785, -14.012915).

Despite showing great potential from a car park just north of the harbour, it was a complete

bust - more a result of the time of year than location. A watch from here at the correct time of

year could be very productive! A few Whimbrel and Turnstone were on the rocks below the

viewpoint as well as a group of very confiding Barbary Ground Squirrel.

Plate 11. Barbary Ground Squirrel - El Cotillo (Mike Wheeler)

28/01/18

(Punta Pesebre/ Costa Calma park/ Vega de Rio Palmas/ Los Penitas/ Los Molinos reservoir)

With a couple of Hoopoe Lark being reported at Punta Pesebre, we made the long journey to

the south end of the island to take a look for them. If you head down this way be prepared –

the road is pretty rough! Strong winds were still hitting the island, and as a result, very few

birds were seen. We could not find the larks in their reported area, but managed to find the

wintering Desert Wheatear (28.099317, -14.490956), with which they had sometimes

associated, which gave some nice views. An immature Barbary Falcon gave a couple of

views here, including a stunning view as it chased a flock of pigeons very close to us.

Following a lot of walking back and forth, we gave up and headed for a quick look near the

lighthouse, which gave a couple of Gannet and nothing else.

Plate 12. Desert Wheatear - Punta Pesebre (Craig Reed)

We stopped briefly at Costa Calma park (28.156205, -14.234025) to look for the wintering

Little Buntings and Olive-backed Pipits. One member of the group managed a brief view of

one Bunting but the rest of the birds avoided detection. Despite this, a good number of birds

were using the park, obviously drawn by the vegetation cover and provision of water. A

single Black Redstart provided the pick of the bunch, but Common Linnet, Blackcap,

Song Thrush and Blackbird were all new for the trip here.

Having missed Barbary Partridge the previous day, we again drove into the mountain to visit

Vega de Rio Palmas and Los Penitas reservoir, which had been given as a good site for the

species. As we parked near the bridge within the town (28.393663, -14.087690), a number

of Ring Ouzel and Laughing Dove were immediately on view. A number of African Blue

Tit were present in the barranco but we quickly realised our partridge foray was in vain, with

large numbers of people walking up and down the valley to the chapel for Sunday worship!

Cutting our losses, we drove further north which we had been told was good for partridge,

but again drew a blank. With one member of our group still to see Barbary Falcon, we drove

to Los Molinos reservoir (28.512671, -14.031405), which had been provided as a reliable

site. With a lack of water on the island, it was nice to have a number of waterbirds to search

through. A small flock of Teal included a single Garganey, while the deeper water held a

single Tufted Duck and a large number of Eurasian Coot. A pair of Mallard were our only

sighting of the trip. A large flock of Ruddy Shelduck had developed at the south end, a

timely reminder as to the status change of this species on the island over the last couple of

decades.

In the shallows, four Spoonbill slept, while a good range of wading birds were on view.

Black winged Stilt, Greenshank, Common Sandpiper, Little Ringed Plover and

Common Snipe all fed on the muddy edges.

Around 11pm, we could hear displaying Stone Curlew from inside our accommodation, and

we managed to locate at least two birds on the ground the other side of the parking area,

which gave nice views of this potential split in the moonlight.

29/01/18

(Vega de Rio Palmas/ Betancuria/ Barranco de Rio Cabras/ Salinas de Carmen/ Caletilla del Espino)

Our final morning on the island left only Barbary Partridge to find, so with the likelihood of

less disturbance in the early morning, we made our way to Vega de Rio Palmas for dawn.

Around half way down the barranco, we started hearing partridge, and soon after, we

managed good views of Barbary Partridge before the forecast heavy rain showers arrived -

at which point, the ground quickly became very slippery! A number of Ring Ouzel were

again on show as well as good numbers of warblers and a few European Robins.

With our target found, we moved to Betancuria town, where we quickly located the Yellow-

browed Warbler reported the previous day, associating with some very confiding African

Blue Tit. From here, Barbary Partridge could be heard calling from the surrounding

hillsides. A number of showy Sardinian Warbler were also on view here - most of the birds

around this site obviously being very accustomed to people.

Plate 13. Yellow-browed Warbler - Betancuria (Craig Reed)

We enjoyed a coffee in a tapas bar adjacent to the bougainvillea which held the ‘YBW’ and

soon after sitting down, a brief view of a bird flying onto a pylon overlooking the village

proved to be our hoped-for Barbary Falcon. This adult certainly proved the icing on the

cake, resulting in each member of the group getting a very good view before it flew away

once it had dried off.

Elated, and with a few hours still to spare before out flight, we visited Barranco de Rio

Cabras again in the hope of further views of the Dwarf Bittern. In short, other than some

stunning views of Egyptian Vulture, this proved a bit of a bust, with very little activity in the

barranco whatsoever, with no sign of the bittern, nor any hoped-for stonechats – which were

presumably a little more dispersed following heavy rain and little wind.

Plate 14. Egyptian Vulture - Barranco de Rio Cabras (Craig Reed)

With the rain becoming increasingly heavy, we retreated to areas we could view from then

car, so we decided on another look at Salinas de Carmen, which again was fairly quiet, with

only a few Sandwich Tern on the rocks and a couple of Whimbrel on the beach. We

noticed a track where you could drive to the water’s edge just to the north of here at Caletilla

del Espino, and this provided the last bit of birding on the island. We struck a little lucky, with

a few waders on the rocky shorelines here, including, Kentish Plover, Redshank,

Sanderling and Ringed Plover plus two very confiding Cattle Egret. With time on the

island running out, we stopped for food on our way to the airport, where a single Barn

Swallow flew overhead, out last species of the trip, bringing us up to a total of 72 species.

Species and site breakdown

Site code Site name

Tor Barranco de la Torre

Car Salinas de Carman

Cab Barranco de rio Cabras

Oli La Oliva

Tin Tindaya Plain/ Village

Bet Betancuria

Pal Barranco de Palomares

MGF Los Molinos Goat farm

Cot El Cotillo

Pes Punta Pesebre

Cal Costa Calma

Rio Vega de rio Palmas/ Los pentias

Los Los Molinos

Esp Caletilla del Espino

Tor Car Cab Oli Tin Bet Pal MGF Cot Pes Cal Rio Los Esp

Ruddy Shelduck Y

Y

Y

Y

Mallard

Y

Teal

Y

Garganey

Y

Tufted Duck

Y

Barbary Partridge

Y

Y

Northern Gannet

Y

Y

Dwarf Bittern

Y

Cattle Egret

Y

Y

Y

Little Egret

Y

Y

Grey Heron

Y

Y

Eurasian Spoonbill

Y

Egyptian Vulture

Y

Common Buzzard

Y

Y Y

Y Y

Kestrel

Y Y Y Y

Y Y Y

Barbary Falcon

Y

Y

Moorhen

Y

Y

Coot

Y

Houbara Bustard

Y

Black-winged Stilt

Y

Y

Stone Curlew

Y

Cream-coloured Courser

Y

Little Ringed Plover

Y

Y

Ringed Plover

Y

Kentish Plover

Y

Sanderling

Y

Turnstone

Y

Y

Y

Green Sandpiper

Y

Common Sandpiper

Y Y Y

Y Y

Redshank

Y

Greenshank

Y

Y

Whimbrel

Y

Y

Snipe

Y

Y

Lesser Black-backed Gull

Yellow-legged Gull Y Y Y Y Y

Y Y Y Y Y Y Y

Sandwich Tern

Y

Black-bellied Sandgrouse

Y

Y

Feral Pigeon

Y Y Y Y Y

Y Y Y Y

Y

Eurasian Collared Dove

Y

Y Y

Y Y

Y

Y Y

Laughing Dove

Y

Y

Plain Swift

Hoopoe

Y

Y

Y

Skylark

Y

Lesser Short-toed Lark

Y

Barn Swallow

Berthelot's Pipit Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y

Y Y

Meadow Pipit

Y

White Wagtail

Y

Y

Y

Y

Grey Wagtail

Y

Robin

Y

Black Redstart

Y

Y

Desert Wheatear

Y

Fuertventura Stonechat

Y

Y Y

Song Thrush

Y

Blackbird

Y

Ring Ouzel

Y

Blackcap

Y Y

Y Y

Sardinian warbler Y

Y

Y Y

Y Y

Spectacled Warbler

Y

Y Y Y Y Y Y

Y

Tristram's Warbler Y

Chiffchaff Y

Y Y

Y Y

Y

Yellow-browed Warbler

Y

African Blue Tit

Y Y

Y Y

Southern Grey Shrike (koenigi)

Y Y Y Y Y Y Y

Y Y

Raven Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y

Y

Y Y Y

Spanish Sparrow

Y Y Y Y Y

Y Y Y

Linnet

Y

Goldfinch

Y

Y Y

Atlantic Canary

Y Y

Trumpeter Finch

Y Y Y Y Y Y

Y Y

Little Bunting

Y

Corn Bunting

Y

Y

Plate 13- Trumpeter Finch- La Oliva (Craig Reed)