workshop manual beta 2009 rr

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WORKSHOP MANUAL



3

INTRODUCTION

This publication has been designed to assist authorizedservice personnel of Betamotor Workshops in maintainingand repairing the vehicle referred to in the manual. Famil-iarity with the specifications contained herein is a key fac-tor in the technical training of operators. In order to makethe manual easy to read and understand, the differentparagraphs are marked with icons that point out the subjectdealt with.

USEFUL ADVICE

To avoid problems and ensure best results, Betamotorrecommends observing the following guidelines:

- Whenever a repair is needed, analyse the customer’s ac-count of the malfunction and ask any questions that canhelp to clarify the symptoms.

- Clearly diagnose the causes of the malfunction. Thismanual provides basic operating principles which the op-erator will have to supplement with their personal experi-ence.

- Carefully plan the repair so as to avoid wasting time inobtaining spare parts, preparing tools, etc.

- Gain access to the parts to be repaired by performing on-ly the operations that are strictly necessary. For best re-sults, always follow the removal procedures described inthis manual.

NoteBetamotor is committed to constantly improving its prod-ucts. For this reason, there can be slight differences be-tween the content of this manual and the vehicle to be re-paired or serviced. Betamotor products are exported tomany countries characterized by different Highway Codesand type-approval procedures. In view of this, Betamotorreserves the right to modify its products and technical doc-umentation at any time and without notice.

Let us help protect the environmentEverything we do affects the entire planet and its re-sources.To protect the common interest, Betamotor urges its cus-

tomers and service operators to use the vehicles and dis-pose of their components in compliance with applicableregulations on environmental pollution control, waste dis-posal and recycling.



4

GENERAL CONTENTS

1 General information

2 Specific tools

3 Tightening torques - Specifications -Recommended products

4 Maintenance

5 Bodywork and fittings

6 Engine

7 Carburettor

8 Front suspension/wheel

9 Rear suspension/wheel

10 Braking system

11 Electrical system

Workshop manual RR 4T - 400 - 450 - 525



Pag. 5

GENERAL INFORMATION 1



6 Workshop manual RR 4T - 400 - 450 - 525

CONTENTS

HOW TO CONSULT THE MANUAL . . . . . . . Chap. 1 - 7GENERAL CONTENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 1 - 7Arrangement of subjects . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 1 - 7Description of operations . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 1 - 7

PURPOSE OF THE MANUAL . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 1 - 7Updates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 1 - 7

TERMS AND SYMBOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 1 - 8

CONVENTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 1 - 9

SAFETY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 1 - 10Carbon monoxide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 1 - 10Petrol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 1 - 10Engine oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 1 - 10Coolant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 1 - 10

Brake fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 1 - 11Threadlocking fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 1 - 11Shock absorber nitrogen . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 1 - 11Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 1 - 11Hot parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 1 - 11

NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 1 - 12

TABLES OF CONTENTSTABLE OF CONTENTS OF EACH CHAPTER Chap. 1 - 12CONTENTS OF EACH CHAPTER . . . . . . . Chap. 1 - 12

OPERATING SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . Chap. 1 - 13VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION . . . . . . . . . Chap. 1 - 13



71 - General information Release 01 Date 09/2007

HOW TO CONSULT THE MANUAL

Arrangement of subjectsThe manual is divided into chapters that cover the main sub-assemblies of the vehicle. To make the different chapters easyto find, the pages of each chapter bear a reference mark that isaligned with the related title in the general contents.Description of operationsThe removing, fitting and checking operations described in themanual are accompanied by pictures (drawings or pho-tographs).The pictures contain symbols referring to procedures, specialtools and other information. Refer to the key to the symbols fora description of their meanings.The procedures are arranged sequentially, step by step.

EXAMPLEWhenever a specific tightening torque is needed, begin by ap-plying a standard tightening torque (e.g. 10 N·m), then proceedwith the tightening by rotating the part by a predetermined angle(e.g. 30°).

PURPOSE OF THE MANUAL

This manual is chiefly intended for qualified Betamotor dealers and mechanics. A mechanic should not expect to find allthe information he requires in a manual. Anybody who uses this manual should have a working knowledge of the princi-ples of mechanics and of motorcycle repairing techniques. Performing repairs or maintenance operations without thisknowledge may render the vehicle unusable and even dangerous.

UpdatesBetamotor is committed to continually improving its products. Any significant changes made to the specifications and pro-cedures contained in this manual will be made known to official dealers and will be included in future editions of the man-ual. All the information, instructions and technical data provided in this manual were up-to-date when the manual was ap-proved for print. Betamotor reserves the right to make changes to the manual at any time, without notice and without in-curring any obligations.

30°

10 N·m

GENERAL CONTENTS



8

TERMS AND SYMBOLS


When performing these oper-ations, flammable vapours

can be released and metalparts can be ejected at highspeed. It is therefore neces-sary to:- Avoid working near sparks

or open flames.- Wear protective clothing.- Wear protective goggles.

IMPORTANT

Whenever a worn cylinder

part needs to be replaced,we recommend checkingand if necessary replacing allthe parts that are related to it.In particular, the followingparts should always be re-placed at the same time:- Piston, piston rings and

piston pins.- Valves, valve springs,

valve cotters, caps andthrust washers.

- Valve guides with related

valves, springs, caps,valve cotters and thrustwashers.

- Crankshaft bearings.- Any part subject to even

wear.To keep the engine in perfectrunning order, ensure that allfits are within the prescribedtolerances. A close fit canlead to seizure as soon asthe moving parts heat up; onthe other hand, a loose fitcauses vibrations that accel-

erate the wear and tear ofmoving parts.

NOTE Whenever the words left, right, upper,lower, front and rear are used, referenceis made to the vehicle in its normal direc-tion of travel.

Avoid disposing of the parts in the envi-

ronment.NOTE




CONVENTION

In order to clarify the left/right convention used in this manual, a diagram of the vehicle and engine are provided belowwith an indication of how the two sides are referred to in the manual.

Rh

Rh

Lh

Lh




SAFETY

Carbon monoxide• Exhaust gases contain carbon monoxide (CO), a poisonous gas that can cause loss of consciousness and even death.• Before starting the engine, ensure that the area is well ventilated. Never run the engine indoors.• The engine can be run indoors only if the area is equipped with specially designed exhausters.

Petrol• Petrol is highly flammable and, under certain circumstances, explosive.• Keep all heat sources, sparks and open flames away from the working area.• Always work in a well ventilated area.• Never use petrol as a cleaning solvent. Avoid handling it unless absolutely necessary.• Do not use petrol for cleaning components that need to be blown with compressed air.• Keep out of the reach of children.

Engine oil• Repeated and prolonged contact of engine oil with the skin can cause skin diseases.• In case of contact, wash the contaminated parts with soap and water as soon as possible.• In case of eye contact, rinse abundantly with water and seek medical attention.• In case of ingestion, immediately seek medical attention without causing vomit as this could result in the oil being

breathed into the lungs. If the product is believed to have been breathed into the lungs, immediately transport the af-fected person to the nearest hospital.

• Spent oil contains substances that are dangerous to the environment. Oil can be renewed only by operators that areequipped for the disposal of spent oils in compliance with applicable laws.

• Avoid disposing of spent oil in the environment.• Keep out of the reach of children.

Coolant• Under certain circumstances the ethylene glycol contained in the coolant is flammable and its flame is invisible. Should

the ethylene glycol ignite, its flame, though invisible, could cause serious burns.• Avoid bringing the coolant into contact with hot parts as these could ignite it.• The coolant (ethylene glycol) can irritate the skin and is poisonous if ingested.• In case of skin contact, immediately take off any contaminated clothes or footwear and wash abundantly with soap and

water. In case of eye contact rinse abundantly with clean water and immediately seek medical attention. If the coolantis ingested, avoid causing vomit as this could cause the product to be breathed into the lungs. Administer clean waterand immediately transport the affected person to the nearest hospital and show the product to health personnel.

• If anybody is exposed to a high concentration of coolant vapours, transport them to an area where they can breath un-polluted air. If necessary seek medical assistance.

• Do not remove the radiator cap when the engine is hot. Since the coolant in the radiator is subjected to high pressures,it could spurt out and cause burns.

• The coolant contains substances that are harmful to the environment. The coolant can only be renewed by operatorsequipped for the disposal of spent oils/coolant in compliance with the regulations in force.

• Avoid disposing of the coolant in the environment.• Keep out of the reach of children.

WARNINGThe information contained in this paragraph is designed to minimize the risks the operator runswhen working on the vehicle.




Brake fluid• The brake fluid is highly corrosive.• Avoid contact with the eyes, the skin and the mucous

membranes.• In case of skin contact, immediately take off any conta-

minated clothes or footwear and wash abundantly withsoap and water.

• In case of eye contact, rinse abundantly with water andseek medical attention.

• In case of ingestion, immediately seek medical attentionwithout causing vomit as this could cause the oil to bebreathed into the lungs.

• If the product is believed to have been breathed into thelungs, immediately transport the affected person to thenearest hospital.

• If anybody is exposed to a high concentration of coolantvapours, transport them to an area where they canbreath unpolluted air. If necessary seek medical assis-tance.

• In case of accidental contact, rinse abundantly with wa-

ter and seek medical attention.• Keep out of the reach of children.

Threadlocking fluid• Although threadlocking fluid is not classified as danger-

ous, prolonged contact with the skin, especially ifbruised, can lead to sensitization or dermatitis. In case ofskin contact, rinse with running water.

• In case of sickness due to inhalation of the product, takethe affected person into the open air and seek medicalassistance.

• In case of eye contact, rinse abundantly with water for atleast 15 minutes.

• In case of ingestion, drink large quantities of water or

milk. Seek medical attention without causing vomit asthis could cause the oil to be breathed into the lungs.

• Keep out of the reach of children.

Shock absorber nitrogen• The rear shock absorber contains pressurized nitrogen.• Before disposing of used shock absorbers, release the

nitrogen through the inflating valve.• Only use nitrogen to pressurize the shock absorber. Un-

stable gases can explode and cause burns.• To prevent the risk of explosions and burns, avoid keep-

ing the shock absorber close to flames or heat sources.• Keep out of the reach of children.

Battery• The battery produces explosive gases. Keep it away

from sparks, flames and cigarettes. Only recharge it inwell ventilated places.

• The battery contains a solution of sulphuric acid (elec-trolyte).

• Sulphuric acid is corrosive to many materials and

clothes. When it comes into contact with small quantitiesof water it produces a violent reaction which releases in-tense heat and spurts of hot acid. Sulphuric acid attacksmany metals and in the process releases hydrogen, aflammable gas that combines with air to produce an ex-plosive mixture.

• Contact with sulphuric acid can cause burns. In case ofcontact immediately take off any contaminated garmentsand rinse the skin with large quantities of water. If nec-essary, take the affected person to the nearest hospital.

• In case of eye contact immediately rinse abundantly withwater, seek medical assistance and continue the treat-ment until the doctor arrives.

• Should the electrolyte be ingested, rinse the mouth withwater without swallowing, immediately transport the af-fected person to the nearest hospital and show the prod-uct to health personnel.

• The battery contains dangerous substances that areharmful to the environment. Batteries can only be re-placed by operators equipped for their disposal in com-pliance with the regulations in force.

• Avoid disposing of spent batteries in the environment.• Keep out of the reach of children.

Hot parts• The engine and the exhaust system become and remain

very hot for some time, even after the engine has been

stopped. Allow them to cool down and put on insulatinggloves before handling these parts or working near them.



NOTES

The information contained in this paragraph is designedto prevent damage to the vehicle.

• Thoroughly clean the vehicle before removing parts.

• After removing parts, clean them and place them in containerstaking care to observe the order of removal.

• Always use special tools whenever necessary or directed.

• Always use glues, sealants and lubricants as directed, ob-serving the indications about their specifications.

• Always replace parts such as gaskets, O-rings and safetywashers with new ones.

• When loosening or tightening nuts or screws, always startfrom the bigger ones, or from the centre. Always observe the

prescribed tightening torques.

• Only use genuine Betamotor spares.

TABLES OF CONTENTSTABLE OF CONTENTS OF EACH CHAPTER


CONTENTS OF EACH CHAPTER




2) engine number

3) type-approval data

OPERATING SPECIFICATIONS

VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION

The frame number is stamped on the right side of the head tube.

The engine number is stamped on the upper crankcase half, next to the swingarm.

ZD3 E1 XX XXXXXXXXXX

Manufacturer’s data

Vehicle model

Version 11 (400 cc Euro 3)

12 (450 cc Euro 3)

13 (525 cc Euro 3)

The following is an example of frame number format:

1) frame number



SPECIAL TOOLS 2



3625132 UNIVERSAL ENGINE MOUNTING TOOL

3625198 RACING ENGINE BRACKET

3625202 CHAIN LINK ASSEMBLING TOOL

3625200 WATER PUMP SEAL FITTING TOOL

POMPA ACQUA

3625097 SPECIAL RING PLIERS

3625203 PRIMARY DRIVE PULLER

3625174 PISTON RING ∅ = 75 MM




Code Description



3625001 LOCTITE 243 BLUE 6CCM

3625081 BUSH PULLER

3625082 INNER BEARING PULLER 12-16MM



3625204 VALVE GUIDE CHECKING TOOL

3625207 INNER CLUTCH RING FITTING TOOL

3625208 SHAFT PROTECTING COVER

3625205 GEAR PULLER

3625201 VALVE SPRING TOOL

3625193 INNER RING FITTING TOOLS NJ206

32 - Special tools Release 01 Date 09/2007

Code Description



4

3625238 CHECKING SPANNER

3625173 FLYWHEEL PULLER

3625000 SILICONE (TUBE)

3625098 TIMING CHAIN FITTING TOOL

3625209 SPARK PLUG SPANNER 13/16

3625090 CLUTCH BLEEDING OIL SYRINGE

3625194 LOCTITE 648 GREEN 24ML

3625199 CLUTCH PULLER


Code Description



52 - Special tools Release 01 Date 09/2007

Code Description

3625206 CARBURETTOR ADJUSTING SPANNER



TIGHTENING TORQUES

SPECIFICATIONS

RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS

3



2

CONTENTS

SPECIFICATIONS - ENGINE . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 3 - 3

SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 3 - 3

CARBURETTOR TUNING . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 3 - 4

TIGHTENING TORQUES . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 3 - 5

FITS, WEAR LIMITS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 3 - 6

STANDARD ADJUSTMENTS - FORK Chap. 3 - 6STANDARD ADJUSTMENTS

- SHOCK ABSORBER . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 3 - 6

SPECIFICATIONS - FRAME . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 3 - 7

- HOMOLOGATION E3 . . . . . . . . . . . .Chap. 3 - 8- AIS valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Chap. 3 - 8

- The catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . .Chap. 3 - 8- Soundproof shell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Chap. 3 - 8

- USA HOMOLOGATION . . . . . . . . . .Chap. 3 - 8- Canister RS4T USA filter system . . . .Chap. 3 - 8

TIGHTENING TORQUES . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 3 - 9




3

SPECIFICATIONS - ENGINE

SPECIFICATIONS

Engine 400 450 525

Type single-cylinder, 4-stroke, liquid-cooled, with countershaft and electric start

Displacement 398 cc 448 cc 510 cc

Bore/stroke 89 / 64 mm 89 / 72 mm 95 / 72 mm

Compression ratio 11 : 1 11 : 1 11 : 1

Fuel unleaded premium fuel with a minimum of 95 RON

Valve gear 4 rocker-operated valves and 1 overhead camshaft driven by single chain

Camshaft 5532 590/5521 590/5521 590/5521

Diameter of intake valves 35 mm 35 mm 35 mm

Diameter of exhaust valves 30 mm 30 mm 30 mm

Valve cold clearance intake: 0,12 mm

Valve cold clearance exhaust: 0,12 mm

Crankshaft bearings 2 cylindrical roller bearings

Small end bearing needle roller cage

Small end bearing bronze bearing

Piston forged alloy

Piston rings 1 compression ring, 1 scraper ring

Lubrication 2 oil pumps

Engine oil completely synthetic oil of known brands (Bardahl XTM 15 W 50)

Oil quantity 1,25 litres

Primary drive cylindrical gears with straight teeth, 33:76 teethClutch wet multiplate

Transmission (with front coupling) 6 speed 6 speed 6 speed

Gear ratios 1st 14:34 1st 14:34 1st 14:34

2nd 17:31 2nd 17:31 2nd 17:31

3rd 19:28 3rd 19:28 3rd 19:28

4th 22:26 4th 22:26 4th 22:26

5th 24:23 5th 24:23 5th 24:23

6th 26:21 6th 26:21 6th 26:21

Ignition system DC-CDI digital ignition system without breaker, with variable spark advance, KOKUSAN type

Dynamo 12V 150W 12V 150W 12V 150W

Spark plug NGK DCPR 8 E

Spark gap 0,6 - 0,7 mm

Cooling liquid cooling, forced liquid circulation by pump

Coolant 1.3 litres, 40% antifreeze, 60% water, at least -25°C

Starting electric start / kickstart

3 - T ighening torques, specifications, recommended products, Homologation E3 Release 01 Date 09/2007





CARBURETTOR TUNING

400/450 525

Carburettor type Keihin FCR-MX 39 Keihin FCR-MX 39

Carburettor code 3900A 3900B

Main jet 178 178

Jet needle OBDVR OBDVT

Idling jet 42 42

Main air jet 200 200

Idling air jet 100 100

Needle valve position 3. 3.

Starting jet 85 85

Fuel mixture adj. screw open by 1,25 turns 1,25 turns

Throttle valve 15 15

Power reduction throttle valve stop throttle valve stop

Pump diaphragm stop 858 / 2,15 mm 858 / 2,15 mm





TIGHTENING TORQUES

Description Type Tightening

Crankcase, clutch cover, ignition cover flange screws M6 10 N·mOil drain screw M12x1.5 20 N·m

Short oil unit socket-head screw M16x1.5 10 N·m

Long oil unit hexagonal-head screw M20x1.5 15 N·m

Oil filter cover flange screw M5 6 N·m

Bypass valve screw M12x1.5 20 N·m

Oilway screw and oil line hollow grub screw M8 10 N·m

Oil pump cover screws M5 Loctite 222 + 6 N·m

Cylinder head flange screws - upper section M6 10 N·m

Cylinder head flange screws - upper section, water pump cover M6 8 N·m

Exhaust flange screws M6 Loctite 243 + 8 N·m

Cylinder head screws M10 40/50 N·m

Camshaft gear socket-head screws M8 Loctite 243 + 28 N·m

Automatic decompressor lever set screw M5 Loctite 222 + 8 N·m

Rocker arm pin socket-head end screw M5 5 N·m

Valve adjusting screw counternuts M6x0.75 11 N·m

Primary drive gear and free wheel socket-head screw M6 Loctite 646 + 16 N·m

Primary drive gear hexagonal nut M20x1.5 Loctite 243 + 150 N·m

Countershaft gear socket-head screws M6 Loctite 243 + 8 N·m

Clutch hub hexagonal nut M18x1.5 Loctite 243 + 150 N·m

Clutch spring flange screws M6 8 N·m

Gear selector socket-head screw M6 Loctite 243 + 10 N·m

Selector lever flange screw M5 Loctite 243 + 6 N·m

Timing chain stretcher, chain guide, chain guard flange screws M6 Loctite 243 + 8 N·m

Gearbox desmodromic mechanism flange screw M5 Loctite 243 + 6 N·m

Chain stretcher flange screws M6 8 N·m

Chain guard flange screws M5 Loctite 243 + 6 N·m

Stator flange screws M6 Loctite 243 + 8 N·m

Pick-up flange screws M5 Loctite 243 + 6 N·mRotor flange nut M12x1 60 N·m

Kickstart stop plate flange screw M6 Loctite 243 + 8 N·m

Kickstart spring link flange screw M6 Loctite 243 + 10 N·m

Starter motor cover flange screw, LH only M6 Loctite 243 + 8 N·m

Breather pipe bracket flange screw M6 Loctite 243 + 8 N·m

Kickstart screw M8 Loctite 243 + 25 N·m

Gearshift lever flange screw M6 Loctite 243 + 10 N·m

Hexagonal-head chain front sprocket screw M10 Loctite 243 + 60 N·m

Spark plug M10 10-12 N·m

Spark plug M12x1.25 20 N·m





FITS, WEAR LIMITS

Crankshaft axial play . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0,1 - 0,2 mm

offset between shaft sections . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .max. 0,12 mm

Small end bearing radial play . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .max. 0,05 mm

axial play . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .max. 1,10 mm

Cylinder 450/450 size I diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89,000 - 89,012 mm

size II diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89,013 - 89,025mm

Cylinder 525 size I diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95,000 - 95,012 mm

size II diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95,013 - 95,025 mm

Piston 400 size I diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88,930 - 88,940 mm


size I fit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0,060 - 0,082 mm

size II fit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0,062 - 0,085 mm

wear limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0,12 mm



size I fit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0,054 - 0,096 mm

size II fit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0,056 - 0,099 mm

wear limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0,12 mm



size I fit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0,050 - 0,070 mm

size II fit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0,044 - 0,085 mm

wear limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0,12 mm

Luce segmento compression ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .max. 0,80 mm

scraper ring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .max. 1,00 mmValves width of sealing surface, intake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .max. 1,50 mm

width of sealing surface, exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .max. 2,00 mm

head floating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .max. 0,05 mm

valve guide diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .max. 6,2 mm

spring cup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .min. 0,4 mm (mm when new 0,5 mm)

Valve springs 450 / 525 /400 minimum outer spring length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39,20 mm

minimum inner spring length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36,45 mm

Oil pump play btw outer rotor and pump casing . . . . . . . . . . . . .max. 0,20 mm

play btw outer and inner rotors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .max. 0,20 mm

axial play . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0,15 mm

By-bass valve minimum spring length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23,5 mm

Clutch plates minimum spring length . . . . . .min. 41,5 mm (mm when new 43 mm)

wear limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1,7 mm

Gear shafts axial play . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0,1 - 0,4 mm

Rocker arm shafts axial play . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0,02 - 0,10 mm

Countershafts support pin offset . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0,06 mm

STANDARD ADJUSTMENTS - FORK

MARZOCCHI

Compression adjust range 12 clicks

Rebound adjust range 12 clicks

Oil type EB-H16 SAE 7,5

STANDARD ADJUSTMENTS - SHOCK ABSORBER

SACHS

Compression adjust range clicks 21/21 (low speed)clicks 24/24 (high speed)

Rebound adjust range 25

Spring preload 260 mm




SPECIFICATIONS - CYCLE PARTS

400/450/525

Frame Single-beam, molybdenum steel frame with double cradle split over exhaust port

Fork “MARZOCCHI” hydraulic upside-down fork (leg Ø 45)

Front/rear suspension travel 290/300 mm

Rear suspension SACHS monoshocks with progressive leverage

Front brake Floating steel disc Ø 255 mm with floating caliper

Rear brake Steel disc Ø 240 mm with floating caliper

Brake discs Wear limit 0.4 mm

Front tyre 90/90 - 21”

Tyre pressure, off road 1,0 bar

Tyre pressure, road use 1,5 bar

Rear tyre 140/80 - 18”

Tyre pressure, off road 1,0 bar

Tyre pressure, road use 1,8 bar

WHEEL DIMENSION (ENDURO) secondary clutch gear 15/45

front cover 90/90-21 54R o 54M

rear cover 140/80-18 70R o 70M or 130/90-18 70R only

Pirelli MT 21 Rallycross Tube Type

front rim 21x1,6

rear rim 18 x2,15

WHEEL DIMENSION (MOTARD) secondary clutch gear 15/43

front cover 120/70-17 58W o 58H

rear cover 150/60-17 66W o 66H

front rim 17x3,5

rear rim 17x4,25

Fuel tank capacity 8,5 litres (including 1 litre reserve)Chain 135 ZRDK / 007

Bulbs Headlight 12V 25/25W

Parking light 12V 3W

Brake/Rear light 12V 21/5W

Front/rear indicator units LED

Number plate light 12V 5W

Battery 12V 5Ah

Caster angle 26,5°

DIMENSIONS - RR 250

Maximum length 2270 mm

Maximum width 813 mm

Maximum height above ground 1255 mm

Wheelbase 1490 mm

Saddle height 940 mm

Ground clearance 320 mm

Footrest height 405 mm

N.B: Potential tyre change from ENDURO to MOTARD also implies replacing the 15/45 secondary clutch gear with a 15/43secondary clutch gear (motard Kit option).




HOMOLOGATION E3

The latest models are E3 type-approved andthey differ from prior approvals in that three de-vices have been introduced:

AIS valve

It is called AIS 1 and it is an air intake system

which allows to complete the combustion ofsome unburned fuels remaining from the ther-modynamic cycle.

The catalytic converter

The catalytic converter is located at the end ofthe exhaust pipe and is part of the muffler,fixed to the exhaust pipe by spot welding in

two places.Its function is to reduce the harmfulsubstances present in the exhaust fumes,specifically CO (carbon monoxide), the HC(unburned fuel) and the Nox (nitrogen oxide).

Soundproof shell

This last device 2 located above the ai filter,has the function of reducing the emission ofpolluting gases and sound thus minimising

noise pollution.

USA HOMOLOGATION

Canister RS4T USA filter system

The extra system with a Canister 4 emissionfilter and vacuum valve 5 prevent the releaseof vapours into the atmosphere.

1

2

3

4

5




SPECIFICATIONS - FRAME

TIGHTENING TORQUES

4 fork foot screws M6 10 N·m

Front brake caliper M8 CH10 Loctite 243 + 30 N·m

Front brake disc M6 Loctite 243 + 15 N·mRear brake disc M8 CH10 Loctite 243 + 20 N·m

Upper fork plate clamping screws M8 CH10 20 N·m

Lower fork plate clamping screws M8 CH10 20 N·m

Rear wheel spindle flange nut M20x1.5 CH27 90 N·m

Swingarm pin hexagonal nut M16x1.5 CH19 100 N·m

Handlebar clamp screws M8 CH10 20 N·m

Handlebar support screws M10 TCEI Loctite 243 + 40 N·m

Upper shock absorber screw M10x1.25 Loctite 243 + 80 N·m

Lower shock absorber screw M12 Loctite 243 + 80 N·m

Chain sprocket screws, special screw M8 10.9 Loctite 243 + 25-30 N·m

Brake pedal screw M8 CH10

Brake pedal ball joint screw M6 Loctite 243 + 10 N·m

Engine fixing screws M10x1.25 CH14 45 N·m

Other frame screws M6 10 N·mM8 25 N·mM10 45 N·m

Other frame flange nuts M6 15 N·mM8 30 N·mM10 50 N·m



MAINTENANCE 4



2

CONTENTS

PLANNED MAINTENANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 3

RECOMMENDED LUBRICANTS . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 3

How to clean parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 4Fits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 4

Part fitting guidelines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 4

Oil circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 5

Checking the engine oil level . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 5

Changing the engineoil and the oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 5

Cleaning the short oil unit . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 6

Cleaning the long oil unit . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 6

Replacing the oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 7

Checking the front brake fluid level . . . Chap. 4 - 8

Restoring the front brake fluid level . . . Chap. 4 - 8

Bleeding the front brake . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 8

Checking the rear brake fluid level . . . . Chap. 4 - 9

Restoring the rear brake fluid level . . . Chap. 4 - 9

Bleeding the rear brake . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 9

Checking the front brake pads . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 10

Checking the rear brake pads . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 10

Checking the level of thehydraulic clutch oil . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 11

Bleeding the hydraulic clutch . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 11Controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Chap. 4 - 12

Fork oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 14

Air filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 15

Spark plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 16

Carburettor -Idle speed adjustment . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 17

Basic information on carburettor wear Chap. 4 - 17

Emptying the float chamber . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 18

Coolant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 18

Chain maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 19

Chain wear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 19

Chain tensioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 19

SUSPENSIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 20

ForkAdjusting the rebound damping . . Chap. 4 - 20

Adjusting the compression damping . Chap. 4 - 20

Shock absorberAdjusting the hydraulic compression damping(high/low speeds) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 20

Adjusting the spring preload . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 21

Adjusting the hydraulicrebound damping . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 21

Charging the battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 4 - 21

DIGITAL SPEEDOMETER(version E3 and RR4T USA) . . . . . . . . . . . Cap. 4 - 22

ScrollL pushbutton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cap. 4 - 23

Warning lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cap. 4 - 23Instrument panel operation . . . . . . . . . . . . Cap. 4 - 24

Speed RPM indicator functions . . . . . . . Cap. 4 - 24

Conversion procedure Km/h - Mph and wheel

selection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cap. 4 - 24

Odometer ODO functions . . . . . . . .Cap. 4 - 24

Clock CLK functions . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cap. 4 - 24

TRIP odometer TRIP function . . . . . . Cap. 4 - 24

STP chronometer function . . . . . . . . Cap. 4 - 24

DIGITAL SPEEDOMETER (RS4T USA) . . . Cap. 4 - 25

Cycling through the functions . . . . . . . . . Cap. 4 - 25

Button functions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cap. 4 - 25

Current speed functions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cap. 4 - 25

Automatic TRIP functions (TD) . . . . . . . . Cap. 4 - 26

Countdown TRIP functions (Countdown) . Cap. 4 - 26

SLEEP-MODE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Cap. 4 - 26

WAKE-UP (from Sleep-mode) . . . . . . . . . . . Cap. 4 - 26

Changing the wheel circumference

and the unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cap. 4 - 27




34 - Maintenance Release 01 Date 09/2007

PLANNED MAINTENANCE

Interval hours (h) 3 after/every 15

Item fuel (litres) 20 100

Air filter (after each off-road ride) C C

Valves K K

Spark plug (replace every 30 hours) - K

Idle speed K K

Throttle cable play K K

Clutch K K

Engine oil R R

Engine oil filter R R

Engine oil gauze strainer C C

Exhaust pipe bolts - T

Brakes K KBrake lines (replace every 4 years) K K

Brake fluid (renew every 2 years) K K

Tyres - K

Steering K K

Fork - K

Rear suspension - K

Frame bolts / nuts and oil line T T

Chain tensioning K K

K = Check and adjust, clean, lubricate or replace as necessary.C = CleanR = Replace/renewT = Tighten

RECOMMENDED LUBRICANTSTo keep the vehicle in perfect running order and prolong its life, we recommend using the products listed in the table be-low:

PRODUCT TYPE SPECIFICATIONS

ENGINE OIL BARDAHL XTM 15W 50

BRAKE FLUID BARDAHL BRAKE FLUID DOT4

FORK OIL EB-H16 SAE 7,5

LINKAGE GREASE BARDAHL MPG2

CLUTCH OIL IP ECOBLU

Note: When renewing the lubricants, be sure to use the products specified in the above table.



4

How to clean partsClean all parts with suitable biodegradable solvents andthen dry them with compressed air.Clean the assemblies before disassembling them as wellas the individual parts after disassembly. Also clean eachpart before reassembly.

FitsTo keep the engine in perfect running order, ensure that allfits are within the prescribed tolerances. The use of re-duced tolerances can lead to seizure; on the other hand,using excessive tolerances causes vibrations that acceler-ate the wear and tear of components.

Part fitting guidelinesWhen refitting parts, follow the removing procedures in re-verse order, paying attention to any specific operations thatare pointed out. Always replace gaskets, oil seals, metalretainers, sealing washers made of deformable materialsand self-locking nuts.

Bearings are designed to last a given number of hours. It istherefore advisable to periodically replace them, all themore so that their wear is difficult to verify. This approachis recommended in addition to the dimensional checks ofthe various components mentioned in the related para-graphs.It is essential to thoroughly clean all components. Bearingsand other wear-prone parts should be lubricated with en-gine oil before they are fitted. Screws and nuts must betightened to the prescribed torques.

The following is a description of the removal, overhaulingand refitting operations to be used for the different assem-blies and subassemblies that make up the engine, in a se-quence that leads to the complete disassembly of the en-gine.

Remove the engine from the frame as described in the re-lated paragraph. Drain the oil from the sump, remove thespark plugs taking care to block up their holes with clean

rags so as to prevent small items (washers, etc.) fromfalling into the engine.




5

Oil circuitOil pump 3 sucks the engine oil from the gearbox oil sumpthrough long oil unit 4. The oil flows through oil line 5 into thecylinder head to camshaft lubrication point 6. The oil quantity isadjusted by means of oilway screw 7. Apipe branches off to longoil unit 8, where the coarser particles are filtered from the oil.The oil then comes to short oil unit 9, which filters off the finer

particles. Once it has been so cleaned, the engine oil is pumpedthrough bypass valve 10 to connecting rod bearing 11 and thensprayed from below onto the piston through jet 12. The secondoil pump 13 sucks the oil from the crankcase through short oilunit 14, lubricating gears 15.

Checking the engine oil levelThe engine oil level can be checked indifferently when the en-gine is cold or hot.Place the vehicle in an upright position on level ground (do notuse the side stand).When the engine is cold, the oil should reach the lower edge of

sight A.When the engine is hot, the oil should reach the upper edge ofthe sight.If necessary top up with engine oil.

WARNING: An insufficient quantity of engine oil or theuse low quality oil lead to early engine wear.

Changing the engine oil and the oil filterBefore performing this operation, remove (if present) lowerbumper A after unscrewing the three screws B as shown in thefigure.Whenever the oil is changed, be sure to clean the short and longoil units and replace both oil filters.

Renew the oil while the engine is at operating temperature.

WARNING: An engine at operating temperature and theoil it contains are very hot and can cause burns.

Park the vehicle on level ground, remove screw C and drain theoil into a container.Thoroughly clean the screw (with the magnet). When the oil hasdrained out completely, clean the sealing surface, refit screw Cwith the seal ring and tighten to 20 N·m.

ENVIRONMENT: Dispose of spent oils in compliancewith applicable laws.


A

B

B

C



6

Cleaning the short oil unitShort oil unit 1 is fitted into socket-head screw 2 on the lowerside of the engine. Insert an Allen key into the socket and un-screw the oil drain screw.Remove the oil unit, thoroughly clean its components and blowthem with low-pressure compressed air. Check the O-rings fordamage and if necessary replace them.

Replace the oil unit with the screw and tighten the latter to 10N·m.

Cleaning the long oil unitThe long oil unit is fitted into hexagonal-head screw 3 next to theengine number. Remove the screw with the oil unit, thoroughly

clean the components and blow them with low-pressure com-pressed air. Check the O-rings for damage and if necessary re-place them.

Fit long oil unit 4 using a 300 mm spanner as shown in the fig-ure, then insert the spanner through the opening in the hole onthe opposite side of the crankcase. Push the oil unit into thecrankcase until it stops and remove the spanner. Refit screw 3and tighten to 15 N·m.

The oil unit is fitted at an angle (see figure). To avoid mal-functions, be sure to observe this position.


2

1

3

4

3



7

Replacing the oil filterRemove screw 1 and place a container under the engine to col-lect the drained oil. Remove the four screws 2 and take off thetwo oil filter covers.

ENVIRONMENT: Dispose of spent oils in compliancewith applicable laws.

Using a pair of Seeger ring pliers, pull out the two filter elements3 from the crankcase.Clean the oil filter covers, the O-ring sealing surfaces and the

crankcase. Check the O-rings and the oil filter covers for dam-age and replace as necessary.

Turn the vehicle upside down and half fill the two oil filter cas-ings with engine oil.

Fit the long filter unit in the front and the short filter unit in theback of the crankcase.Grease the oil filter cover O-rings and fit covers 4.Fit screws 2 and tighten them to 6 N·m.Tighten screw 1 to 8 N·m.Lift up the vehicle.Remove screw fastening 5 from the clutch cover and pour in1.25 litres of the recommended engine oil (see table in Chapter3).

WARNING: Before actually starting the engine, actuatethe kickstart several times to allow the oil to spreadthroughout the system.

Subsequently start the engine and check all screw fasteningsand oil filter covers for signs of leakage. Finally check the engineoil level and top up as necessary.


1

2

2

3

4

5



8

Checking the front brake fluid levelCheck the brake fluid level by looking through sight A. The lev-el should never fall below the mark in the sight.

Restoring the front brake fluid levelTo restore the brake fluid level, unscrew the two screws 1, liftcap 2 and pour in fresh fluid (IP DOT 4) until the level is 5 mm

below the upper rim of the reservoir.

IMPORTANT: We recommend using DOT 4 brake fluid. Shouldthis fluid be unavailable, use DOT 5.1 instead. Do not on any ac-count use DOT 5 brake fluid, a purple liquid with a base of sili-cone requiring special seals and tubes.

WARNING: Brake fluid is highly corrosive. Take care not to dripit onto the paintwork.

Bleeding the front brakeTo bleed air from the front brake circuit, follow these steps: – Remove rubber cap B from valve C. – Open the brake fluid reservoir cap. – Insert one end of a small tube into valve C and place the oth-

er end in a container. – Unscrew valve C (while pulling the lever) and repeatedly pull

the brake lever until the oil comes out in an uninterrupted flowwith no air bubbles. During this operation it is important thatthe brake lever should never be released completely. Keeppouring brake fluid into the brake pump reservoir to compen-sate for the fluid that is flowing out.

– Tighten the valve and remove the tube.

– Replace the cap. – Fit the reservoir cap on the brake pump.


A

12

C

B



9

Checking the rear brake fluid levelEnsure the brake fluid level by looking through sight D. The lev-el should never fall below the mark in the sight.

Restoring the rear brake fluid levelTo restore the brake fluid level, unscrew cap 3 and pour in freshfluid (IP DOT 4) until the level reaches the mark in sight D.

IMPORTANT: We recommend using DOT 4 brake fluid.Should this fluid be unavailable, use DOT 5.1 instead. Donot on any account use DOT 5 brake fluid, a purple liquid

with a base of silicone, as it requires special seals and tubes.

WARNING: Brake fluid is highly corrosive. Take care notto drip onto the paintwork.

Bleeding the rear brakeTo bleed air from the rear brake circuit, follow these steps: – Remove rubber cap E from valve F. – Unscrew the brake fluid reservoir cap. – Insert one end of a small tube into valve F and place the oth-

er end in a container. – Unscrew valve F (while operating the pedal) and repeatedly

actuate the brake pedal until the oil comes out in an uninter-rupted flow with no air bubbles. During this operation it is im-portant that the brake pedal should never be released com-pletely. Keep pouring brake fluid into the brake pump reservoirto compensate for the fluid that is flowing out.

– Tighten the valve and remove the tube.

– Replace the cap. – Fit the reservoir cap on the brake pump.


D

3

F

E



10

Checking the front brake padsTo check the wear of the front brake pads, visually inspect thecaliper from below. The lining on the visible ends of the twobrake pads should be at least 2 mm thick. Should the lining bethinner, immediately replace the brake pads.

NOTE: Perform the check at the intervals specified in the Main-

tenance table in Chapter 3.

WARNING: Any delay in the replacement of the brakepads can result in poor braking and lead to brake discdamage.

Checking the rear brake padsTo check the wear of the rear brake pads, visually inspect thecaliper from behind. The lining on the visible ends of the twobrake pads should be at least 2 mm thick. Should the lining bethinner, immediately replace the brake pads.

NOTE: Perform the check at the intervals specified in the Main-

tenance table in Chapter 3.

WARNING: Any delay in the replacement of the brakepads can result in poor braking and lead to brake discdamage.




11

Checking the level of the hydraulic clutch fluidTo check the level of the fluid in the clutch pump, it is first nec-essary to remove cover 2.Remove the two screws 1 and take off cover 2 together with therubber bellows.When the clutch pump is in a horizontal position, the fluid shouldbe 4 mm below the upper rim.

If necessary, top up with hydraulic fluid of the recommendedtype (see Chapter 3).

Bleeding the hydraulic clutchBefore bleeding the clutch, it is first necessary to remove theclutch pump cover. Remove the two screws 1 and take off cov-er 2 together with the rubber bellows. Remove the breathervalve from clutch pump cylinder 3 and replace it with the bleed-ing syringe filled with SAE 10 hydraulic fluid. Inject fluid until itcomes out with no air bubbles from clutch pump hole 4. Ensurethat no fluid flows over. After completing the bleeding, check thelevel of the fluid in the clutch cylinder and if necessary top upwith hydraulic fluid of the recommended type (see Chapter 3).It is essential that only mineral oil should be used.


3

4

1

2




CONTROLS

Clutch leverClutch lever 1 is fitted to the left-hand side of the handlebars.Screw A can be used to alter the home position of the lever (seeAdjustments).

Front brake leverFront brake lever 2 is fitted to the righthand side of the handle-bars. Screw B can be used to adjust the home position of the le-ver (see Adjustments).

Starter buttonStarte button 3 is located on the right-hand side of the handle-bars and operate the electri engine starter. Push the button un-til the engine sterts.Do not press the button 3 while the engine is running.

LH switch

Dip switch 4 has three positions:

lights offlow beam onhigh beam onButton 5 operates the horn.Switch 6 is used to stop the engine.Press the button until the engine stops.

Gearchange lever

Gearchange lever 7 is fitted to the left side of the engine.The positions corresponding to the different gears are shown inthe figure.The neutral position is between the 1st and 2nd gears.

Brake pedalThe home position of brake pedal 4 can be altered by turningadjusting screw 9 after loosening the counternut located underdust cap 10. Loosen the counternut and turn the adjusting screwuntil the desired height is obtained. Retighten the counternutafter completing the operation.

1

A

2

B

3

4

5

6

1ª•

2ª•Folle•

3ª•

4ª•5ª•

6ª•

7

8

9

10




CONTROLS (RR4t USA)

Starter buttonStarte button 3 is located on the right-hand side of the handle-bars and operate the electri engine starter. Push the button un-til the engine sterts.Do not press the button 3 while the engine is running.

LH switchSwitch 11 is used to stop the engine. Press the button until theengine stops.

While button 12 turns on the lights.

CONTROLS RS4T USA

RH switchStarte button 13 is located on the right-hand side of the handle-bars and operate the electri engine starter. Push the button un-til the engine sterts.Do not press the button 13 while the engine is running.While button 14 turns off the engine.

Caution:Before turning it on, make sure the switch 14 is on ON.

LH switch

Dip switch 4 has three positions:lights offlow beam onhigh beam onButton 5 operates the horn.Switch 6 is used to stop the engine.Press the button until the engine stops.

ON OFF

11

12

14

13



14

Fork oil

Left/right fork legTo renew the oil, follow these steps: – Unscrew the four screws B fastening handlebar clamp C and

remove the handlebars.

– Loosen leg clamping screws D and E.

– Remove lower plug F and upper plug A (pay attention to thespring).

– Allow the oil to drain completely from the fork leg. – Screw on lower plug F again.

– Pour in fresh oil of the type specified in the table in Chapter 3. – Screw on upper plug A again. – Tighten screw D, then screw E and then screw D again.


D

E

F

A

B

C



15

Air filterA dirty air filter blocks the passage of air, reduces engine powerand increases fuel consumption. For these reasons, it is essen-tial to maintain the oil filter on a regular basis.

To gain access to the filter, follow these steps: – Remove the saddle.

– Lift and rotate battery 1. – Release filter fastener 2. – Pull out air filter 3. – Carefully wash the filter in soap and cold water or using a suit-

able detergent. – Dry the filter. – Wet the filter with filter oil, taking care to remove any excess

oil so as to prevent dripping.

WARNING: Do not clean the filter in foam containingpetrol or petroleum as these substances may corrode it.Do not clean the filter with hot water.

Do not start the engine if the air filter is not in place: dust and dirtgetting into the engine could cause damage and excessivewear.

– If necessary, also clean the inside of the filter casing. – When refitting, make sure of the seal of the rubber gasket. – Reattach filter fastener 2.

WARNING: After working on the filter, ensure that no ob- ject is left inside the filter casing.Clean the filter every time the vehicle is used off road.


1

3

2

2

3



16

Spark plug

Maintaining the spark plug in good condition makes for reducedfuel consumption and optimum engine performance. It is prefer-able to remove the spark plug when the engine is hot (obvious-ly after switching it off) as the carbon formation and the colour ofthe insulator provide important information on carburation, lubri-

cation and the general condition of the engine.

NOTE:spark plug is black: mixture is “rich”spark plug is light brown: mixture is correctspark plug is white: mixture is “lean”

To avoid serious hand burns, wear protective gloves andperform the operation with great caution.

To perform the check, simply remove the spark plug cap and un-screw the spark plug using the spanner provided. Carefullyclean the electrodes using a wire brush. Blow the spark plug

with compressed air to prevent any residues from getting into toengine.

Using a thickness gauge, check that the spark gap is 0.6-0.7mm. If necessary, correct the distance by bending the earthelectrode.

Also check that the insulator is not cracked and the electrodesare not corroded. If that is the case, immediately replace thespark plug.

Perform the check by referring to the indications provided in thetable Maintenance in Chapter 3.

Lubricate the spark plug thread and, when the engine is cold,screw in the spark plug by hand until it stops and then tighten itwith the spanner.

NOTE: Always use NGK DCPR 8 E spark plugs.




17

Carburettor - Idle speed adjustmentThe adjustment of the idle speed strongly affects engine start-ing, i.e. an engine whose idle speed is properly adjusted is eas-ier to start than an improperly tuned engine.The idle speed is adjusted by means of adjusting roller 1 andmixture adjusting screw 2. The adjusting roller alters the baseposition of the throttle valve; the mixture adjusting screw adjusts

the idle speed mixture, which comes to the engine through theidle speed system. Turning the screw clockwise decreases thequantity of fuel (lean mixture); turning it anticlockwise increasesthe quantity of fuel (rich mixture).

To properly adjust the idle speed, follow these steps: – Turn in mixture adjusting screw 2 until it stops, then turn it to

obtain the basic adjustment prescribed by BETAMOTOR (seeengine specifications in Chapter 3).

– Warm up the engine. – Using adjusting roller 1, adjust the standard idle speed (1400

- 1500 rpm).

– Slowly turn mixture adjusting screw 2 clockwise until the idlespeed begins to decrease. Memorize this position. Now slow-ly turn the mixture adjusting screw anticlockwise until the en-gine speed starts to decrease again. Choose the point be-tween these two positions where the idle speed is higher.Should the engine speed increase considerably, reduce it tothe standard level and repeat the above procedure.

NOTE: Failure to successfully complete the above proceduremay be due to an idling jet of unsuitable size.a)If the mixture adjusting screw is turned until it stops and the

idle speed does not change, fit a smaller idling jet.b)If the engine stalls while the mixture adjusting screw is still two

turns open, fit a larger idling jet.Obviously, once the jet has been replaced, the adjusting proce-dure will have to be restarted from the beginning. – Now use the adjusting roller to obtain the desired idle speed. – The idle speed needs to be adjusted again in case of marked

changes in the outside temperature and the riding altitude.

Basic information about carburettor wearThe throttle valve, the jet needle and the needle jet are subjectto heavy wear and tear due to engine vibrations.This could result in carburettor malfunctions (e.g. a richer mix-ture).


1

2



18

Emptying the float chamberShould the float chamber need to be emptied, use the followingprocedure when the engine is cold. Close the fuel cock andplace pipe 4 in a container to collect the fuel that will flow out.Open drain screw 5 and drain the fuel. Close the drain screwagain, open the fuel cock and check the seal of the system.

WARNING: Fuel is toxic and highly flammable. Handle itwith the utmost care. Never work on the fuel system nearheat sources or open flames. Always allow the engine to

cool down. Clean any excess fuel with a rag. Materials soakedin fuel are also highly flammable. In case of ingestion or contactwith sensitive body parts, immediately seek medical attention.

Dispose of fuel in accordance with the law.

Coolant

Check the coolant level when the engine is cold. Followthese steps:

– Unscrew cap A and visually check the level of the coolant.When the engine is cold, the liquid should be about 10 mmabove the radiator fins.

– If the coolant does not cover the radiator fins, add coolant un-til the level is restored.

The capacity of the circuit is shown in the table in Chapter 3.

WARNING: To avoid burns, never unscrew the radiatorfiller cap when the engine is hot.


5

4

A



19

Chain maintenanceThe life of the chain mainly depends on its maintenance. Chain without X-rings should be regularly cleaned in petroleumand then immersed in hot chain oil or treated with chain spray.The maintenance of X-ring chains is reduced to a minimum. The best way to clean them is to use plenty of water. Neverattempt to clean an X-ring chain with brushes or solvents. Once the chain has dried, it is possible to use a spray for X-ring chains.

Take special care in ensuring that the lubricant does not come into contact with the rear tyre or the brake disc, oth-

erwise the grip of the tyre or the braking action would be considerably reduced, making the vehicle difficult to con-trol.

– Loosen wheel spindle nut 1.

– Loosen counternuts A on both fork arms.

– Turn adjusting screw B on either side to obtain the desiredtension.

– Tighten counternuts A on both fork arms.

– Tighten nut 1.

Chain wearCarefully follow the procedure described below to check thewear of the chain.Change into neutral, pull up the upper chain stretch with a forceof 10-15 kg (see figure). Now measure the length of 18 links onthe lower chain stretch. If the measurement is equal to orgreater than 272 mm, replace the chain. Chains do not alwayswear out evenly. For this reason the measurement should betaken at different points along the chain.

When fitting a new chain, it is advisable to change thefront and rear sprockets as well. New chains wear outfaster when fitted on old and worn-out front sprockets.

In case of replacement, adjust the chain tension.


10-15 Kg

18 steps

OK < 272

30 ÷ 35 mm

A B

A

B1

Chain tensioningTo prolong the life of the drive chain, it is advisable to periodi-cally check its tensioning.Always keep the chain clean and lubricated. Whenever thechain play exceeds 30 ÷ 35 mm, adjust the chain tension by fol-lowing these steps:



20

SUSPENSIONS

ForkAdjusting the rebound dampingThe hydraulic rebound damping unit determines the behaviourof the fork during the rebound phase and is adjusted by meansof screw A. Turning the screw clockwise (towards the + sign) oranticlockwise (towards the – sign) respectively increases or de-creases the rebound damping.

Standard adjustment:12 clicks from the completely closed position

Adjusting the compression dampingThe hydraulic compression damping unit determines the behav-iour of the fork during the compression phase and can be ad-

justed by means of screw B at the lower end of the fork legs.Turning the screw clockwise or anticlockwise respectively in-creases or decreases the compression damping.


Shock absorberAdjusting the hydraulic compression damping(high/low speeds)The shock absorber can be adjusted for both high and lowspeeds.The expressions ‘high speed’ and ‘low speed’ refer to the move-ment of the shock absorber, not to the speed of the vehicle.The low and high speed adjustments affect the behaviour of theshock absorber during slow and fast compression respectively.

Low speed adjustment: – Using a screwdriver, turn screw C clockwise to decrease thehydraulic compression damping.

Standard adjustment:completely open screw, 21/21 clicks

High speed adjustment: – Turn knob D anticlockwise to decrease the hydraulic com-

pression damping.

Standard adjustment:completely open knob, 24/24 clicks

WARNING: If the knob is turned anticlockwise (closingdirection) from the standard position, the central screw

will rotate together with knob. This is normal, and thescrew will be in the completely open position in any case.


A

B

C

D



21

Adjusting the spring preload

Use the following procedure to adjust the spring preload.Loosen locknut 1, turn ring nut 2 clockwise to increase thespring preload (and consequently the shock absorber preload)and anticlockwise to decrease it. Once the desired preload hasbeen obtained, turn locknut 1 until it comes into contact with ad-

justing ring nut 2.

Spring preload: 260 mm

Adjusting the rebound damping

The rebound damping is adjusted by means of screw 3.

Turning the screw anticlockwise (out) decreases the dampingaction.


Charging the battery

Remove the battery and check its charge. Using an open-circuitmultimeter (10-12 hours after the activation), check that the volt-age is greater than 12.6 V. If it is lower, recharge the battery.Depending on the recharger that is available, recharge the bat-tery using one of the following procedures: – Constant voltage: charge the battery with a voltage of 14.4-15

V for about 12 hours. 10-12 hours after the charging is com-plete, measure the voltage as previously described.

– Constant current: charge the battery at 0.5/0.8 A until the volt-age between the terminals settles around 14.5 V.

WARNING: The battery is sealed. When recharging, donot remove the seal plug nor add any liquid.

WARNING: To recharge the battery, first connect it to thebattery charger and then turn on the charger.When recharging indoors, take care to ensure properventilation. During the charging the battery produces ex-plosive gases.


1

2

3




DIGITAL RPM INDICATOR (RR4T Euro 3 version)

SCROLL PUSHBUTTON

The instrument panel has a pushbutton A which changes and sets the main functions.

WARNING LIGHTSThe instrument panel has three warning lights. Warning light B, GREEN, indicates turn indicators have been activated.Warning light C, BLUE, indicates when the high-beam light is ON.Warning light D, YELLOW, indicates the reserve (not activated)

Important:When cleaning operation using a high-pressure water jet cleaner, avoid aiming the jet to the digital instrument panel.

B

A

C D




INSTRUMENT PANEL OPERATION

Every time the battery is connected, the instrument panel

checks all the functions.

Once the CHECK phase is complete (around 2 seconds), the

last preset operation is displayed.

Every time the vehicle is turned off, the instrument panel stopsshowing the current information.

If the SCROLL pushbutton is pushed repeatedly, the functions

are displayed in sequenced screens in the following order:

1st screen

- SPEED rpm indicator

- Odometer ODO

2nd screen- SPEED rpm indicator

- Clock CLK

3rd screen


- Trip odometer TRIP

4th screen


- STP chronometer

1st screen

- SPEED rpm indicator- Odometer ODO ....and so on.

SPEED RPM INDICATOR FUNCTIONS

It indicates the vehicle speed in km/h or Mph.

Maximum value: 199 km or mph




CONVERSION PROCEDURE Km/h - Mph and wheel

selection

In order to convert km/h to mph, proceed as follows:

- Set the instrument panel on the 1st screen, turn off the

vehicle and press the SCROLL pushbutton.

- Start the vehicle keeping the SCROLL pushbutton

pushed until the symbol "Km/h" is displayed.- "Km/h" and "Mph Miles" will be displayed alternately.

Press the SCROLL key when the intended unit of mea-

surement is displayed.

- After the conversion, and for a short period of time,

the two wheel circumferences available will be shown.

Confirm the value to be saved by pressing the

SCROLL key at the moment it is shown on the display.

ODOMETER ODO FUNCTIONS

The ODO function saves the kilometres travelled

by the vehicle, even with the instrument panel is OFF.

Saving interval: every 2 km

Maximum indication: 99999 km

CLOCK CLK FUNCTIONS

It indicates hours and minutes from 0:00 to 23:59 :59

In order to set the clock, it is necessary to select the

screen 2 and hold down the SCROLL pushbutton for ap-

proximately three seconds. After this time has elapsed,

the desired hour can be selected by pressing the

SCROLL key.

When the pushbutton is released after three seconds,

the instrument panel will automatically shift to the min-

utes. Select the minutes by pressing repeatedly the

SCROLL pushbutton.

TRIP ODOMETER TRIP FUNCTION

It indicates the distance travelled from the last reset-

ting.

Maximum indication: 999.9 km

This parameter can be reset on screen 3 by pushing

and holding down the SCROLL key for approximately 3

seconds.

Remark:

The information from this function is lost when the bat-

tery is disconnected or tension drops below 6V.

STP CHRONOMETER FUNCTION

It indicates a range from 0 to 99:59.99

(Minutes:Seconds.Hundredths of a second)

This counter is controlled by pressing (once the f unction

is displayed) the SCROLL key for approximately 0.5

second.

1st Push: function activation

2nd Push: counters are stopped

3rd Push: STP reset

4th Push: function activation

5th Push: counters are stopped and so on ....

Remark:

The information from this function is lost when the bat-

tery is disconnected or tension drops below 6V.




DIGITAL SPEEDOMETER(RR4T USA RS4T USA version)

CYCLING THROUGH THE FUNCTIONS

It is always possible to cycle through the different functions while

the vehicle is stationary or in motion. Pressing button A displaysthe following functions in succession:

TIME - LAP - TOD - TD - COUNTDOWN

BUTTON FUNCTIONSThe functions of the buttons change with the function currentlydisplayed:

1 - TIME T≥ 3” and Vel=0 activates time setting mode -T<3” or Vel>0 cycles through functions

2 - LAP T≥ 3” resets LAP and TD - T<3” cycles through

functions

3 - TOD T≥ 3” and Vel=0 enables setting of circumfer-ence, unit and number of pulses for each wheel turn - T<3” orVel>0 cycles through functions

4 - TD T≥ 3” resets LAP and TD - T<3” cycles throughfunctions

5 - COUNTDOWN T≥ 3” and Vel=0 enables setting ofcountdown - T<3” or Vel>0 cycles through functions.

T = Time during which button is pressed down

Vel = Speed of vehicle

CURRENT SPEED FUNCTIONThis information is constantly displayed together with an indica-tion provided by a graphic bar. The default unit is Mph. Tochange the unit, press the button to access the Setup menu andselect km/h. When Mph is selected, no indication is provided asto which unit is currently displayed.

TIME FUNCTION (TIME)T≥ 3” and Vel=0 activates time setting modeT<3” or Vel>0 cycles through functionsThe time can only be set while the vehicle is stationary.

Press and hold button C or D for more than 3 seconds to enterthe time setting mode.Once the time has been set, press the button for about 3 sec-onds to go back to the standard operating mode. The Time pa-rameter is displayed in the 0-12 format if Mph has been select-ed, and in the 0-24 format if Km/h has been chosen. When in thesetting menu, if no buttons are pressed for 20 seconds the sys-tem will automatically return to the standard operating mode.Moving off (Vel > 0) while the setting mode is activated causesthe system to automatically return to the standard operatingmode.

A

AUTOMATIC LAP FUNCTION (LAP)T≥ 3” resets LAP and TDT<3” cycles through functions

This information represents the actual riding time as-sociated with the TD parameter. It is an automaticcounter which is activated by the first pulse generatedby the speed sensor and stops 3 seconds after recei-ving the last pulse from the sensor. The counter forthis parameter can be reset while in LAP mode bypressing the A button for about 3 seconds until 00’00”is displayed. The LAP function can be reset while thevehicle is stationary or in motion and also causes thereset of the TD parameter.

MILEOMETER FUNCTION (TOD)T≥ 3” and Vel=0 enables setting of circumference, unitand number of pulses for each wheel turnT<3” or Vel>0 cycles through functions

The information is displayed together with the TOD

caption. Depending on the selected unit, the informatis displayed in Mph (default) or Km/h and is perma-nently stored in non-volatile memory. It is not possibleto reset this information during normal operation ofthe instruments.




AUTOMATIC TRIP FUNCTION (TD)T≥ 3” resets LAP and TDT<3” cycles through functions

This function is always accompanied by the TD caption. The in-formation displayed represents the total distance covered by thevehicle in kilometres or miles (according to the selected unit). Itis an automatic counter which is activated by the first pulse gen-

erated by the speed sensor.The counter for this parameter can be reset while in TD modeby pressing the button for about 3 seconds until 000.0 is dis-played. The TD function can be reset while the vehicle is sta-tionary or in motion and also causes the reset of the LAP para-meter.

COUNTDOWN TRIP FUNCTION (COUNTDOWN)T≥ 3” and Vel=0 enables setting of countdownT<3” or Vel>0 cycles through functions

This function is always accompanied by a flashing TD caption.The counter is always active and is automatically decreased by0.1 kilometres or miles according to the selected unit. The valuefor this parameter can be changed in TD decrease mode by

pressing the button for about 3 seconds while the vehicle is sta-tionary.The different figures that make up the counter can be alteredstarting from the most significant figure and shifting in succes-sive steps to the least significant figure.Pressing the button for a short time decreases the value by onestep; pressing it for a longer time allows a different parameter tobe selected. After setting the least significant figure, press thebutton for about three seconds to go back to the standard oper-ating mode. If the parameter reaches 000.0, the system auto-matically sets it to 999.9.While in the setting menu, if no buttons are pressed for 20 sec-onds the system will automatically return to the standard oper-ating mode.Moving off (Vel > 0) while the setting mode is activated causes

the system to automatically return to the standard operatingmode

SLEEP-MODE

One minute after the last pulse from the speed sensor has beenreceived, or after the button was last depressed, the microcon-troller switches to a power-saving status named Sleep Mode. Inorder to save power, all standard instrument activity is suspend-ed, the display and the backlighting are turned off (if the vehiclehas no battery the backlighting is automatically turned off assoon as the engine is switched off) and only the clock remainsin operation. The system can go into Sleep Mode regardless ofthe selected function.

WAKE UP (from Sleep Mode)

The system wakes up from Sleep Mode whenever:

•The instrument receives a signal from the speed sensor.

•The button is depressed.

As soon as the microcontroller wakes up the following happens:

• The display and the warning lights are checked (all the warn-ing lights come up providing that power is supplied by the ve-hicle) for about 2 seconds.

• The selected wheel circumference and number of wheel puls-es are displayed for about 2 seconds.

• The last function in use when the system went into Sleep Modeis activated. If the waking up takes place through the electron-ic transmission (i.e. without pressing the button), the instru-ments immediately switch to the standard operating modewithout checking the display and the warning lights and with-out showing the selected wheel circumference and number ofwheel pulses.

A




CHANGING THE WHEEL CIRCUMFERENCE,UNIT AND NUMBER OF PULSESThe wheel circumference, the unit and the number of wheelpulses can be altered only when the vehicle is stationary.Hold down the button while the TOD function is active until the on-ly information displayed is the circumference and all the other seg-ments are switched off. The different digits that make up the wheel

circumference figure can be altered in succession from the mostsignificant digit to the least significant digit. To shift the selectionfrom one digit to the next (the selected digit will blink with f = 1 Hz,Duty = 50%), press the button for a short time.

NOTE: The wheel circumference can range from 1000 to 2500mm in 1 mm steps. If the selected wheel circumference isgreater than 2500 mm, the system automatically selects the de-fault value (2154 mm).

Once the wheel circumference has been adjusted, the unit canbe changed by holding the button down for about 3 secondswhile the least significant digit is active. This will bring up the twoabbreviations km/h and Mph and the selected unit will blink fora few seconds (f = 1 Hz, Duty = 50%). The parameter is

changed as described above. When the unit is changed, the TDand LAP parameters are both irreversibly deleted.Pressing the mode button for about 3 seconds when the select-ed unit is active (the unit will blink with f = 1Hz, Duty = 50%),makes it possible to alter the number of wheel pulses.This parameter indicates the number of pulses that the elec-tronic transmission sends to the instruments for each wheelturn, with a maximum of 6+ pulses for each wheel turn.

NOTE: The pulses may NOT be equally spaced.

Pressing the mode button for about 3 seconds while the corre-sponding value is selected will return the system to the standardoperating mode.

Installing the instrument panelThe default circumference value is 2154 mm, the units forspeeds and distances are km/h and km respectively. The defaultsetting for the number of pulses is 1 pulse per wheel turn. Tochange any one of these parameters, use the procedure de-scribed in the previous paragraphs. When the instruments arefirst installed, the software version and production date are dis-played for about 2 seconds. Immediately after the display hasbeen checked and the preset wheel circumference and numberof pulses per wheel turn have been displayed, the system goesinto standard operating mode.High power consumption functions Given its high power con-sumption, the backlight unit and the warning lights are operatedonly by the power supplied by the vehicle. When no power issupplied (and the backup battery is activated) the backlighting is

turned off and the warning lights disabled. This, however, doesnot prevent the instruments from working properly.E2 prom erasing procedure When testing and checking an instru-ment, it is sometimes useful to erase the E2prom memory. This is aprocedure which, in principle, is not intended for the user.

To gain access to the procedure, follow these steps:• Disconnect the instrument panel from the main battery and the

backup battery.• Connect pin 5 of the input connector (unwired) to 12 V.• Press the button.• Restore the connection with the backup battery or the main

battery (if present).

The system will then erase all the data contained in the E2prom

and activate the default values (wheel circumference 2154 mm,speeds measured in km/h, distances measured km, 1 pulse perwheel turn). There is no way to retrieve the erased data.



BODYWORK AND FITTINGS 5



2

CONTENTS

Removing the plastics . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 5 - 3

Removing the saddle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 5 - 3

Removing the rear mudguard . . . . . . . . Chap. 5 - 3

Removing the front side panels . . . . . . Chap. 5 - 4Removing the rear side panels . . . . . . . Chap. 5 - 4

Removing the right-hand side bumper Chap. 5 - 4

Removing the left-hand side bumper . . Chap. 5 - 4

Removing the front mudguard . . . . . . . Chap. 5 - 5

Removing the fork covers . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 5 - 5

Removing the headlight grille . . . . . . . Chap. 5 - 6




3

Removing the plasticsTo make some areas of the vehicle easier to check and service,it is first necessary to remove parts of the bodywork as de-scribed below.

Removing the saddleRemove the two fixing screws A (one on each side), lift the sad-dle as shown in the figure and pull it back and off the vehicle.

Removing the rear mudguardRemove the two fixing screws B and then the two screws C andD from under the rear mudguard.

5 - Bodywork and fittings Release 01 Date 09/2007

A

B

CC



4

Removing the front side panelsUnscrew the eight fixing screws E (four on each side) and takeoff the front side panels.

Removing the rear side panelsUnscrew the four fixing screws F (two on each side) and take offthe rear side panels. In addition to fastening the rear side pan-

el, the upper screw also fixes the saddle.

Removing the right-hand side bumperUnscrew the six fixing screws G, remove the plastic clamp andtake off the right-hand side bumper (if present).

Removing the left-hand side bumperUnscrew the four fixing screws H, remove the two plastic clampsand take off the left-hand side bumper (if present).


G

H

F

E



5

Removing the front mudguardRemove the four screws L from under the front mudguard.

Also remove mudguard brace fixing screw M from under themudguard.

Finally remove the two brace fixing screws N from the top of thebrace.

Removing the fork coversUnscrew the eight fixing screws P (five on the left side and threeon the right side) and remove the fork covers.

5 - Bodywork and fittings Release 01 Date 09/2007

L

M

M

P



6

Removing the headlight grilleRelease the two rubber bands Q as shown in the figure, pull outthe headlight and remove grille R.


Q

R



ENGINE SECTION- REMOVING THE ENGINE FROM THE VEHICLE

- DISASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

- OVERHAULING THE ENGINE

- REASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

- INSTALLING THE ENGINE ON THE VEHICLE

6



2 Workshop manual RR 4T- 400 - 450 - 525



ENGINE SECTION- REMOVING THE ENGINE FROM THE VEHICLE

6



CONTENTS

Removing the saddle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 5

Removing the fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 5

Removing the right-hand side panel . . Chap. 6 - 6

Removing the silencer . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 6Draining the cooling system . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 6

Removing the left-hand radiator . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 7

Removing the horn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 7

Right-hand radiator -cylinder connecting pipe . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 7

Removing the intake sleeve . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 8

Rear frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 8

Disconnecting the electrical system . . Chap. 6 - 8

Tipping over the rear frame . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 8

Disconnecting the rear brake pump . . . . Chap. 6 - 8

Disengaging the exhaust pipe . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 9

Releasing the rear shock absorber . . . . Chap. 6 - 9

Removing the exhaust pipe . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 9

Removing the drive chain . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 9

Removing the engine/swingarm pin . . Chap. 6 - 10

Removing the rear suspension linkage Chap. 6 - 10

Removing the rear end . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 10

Removing the throttletwist grip assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 10

Removing the carburettor . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 10

Removing the brake pedalpull-off spring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 11

Removing the spark plug cap . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 11

Removing the water deliverypipe from the pump . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 11

Removing the front sprocket casing . Chap. 6 - 11

Removing the clutch pump assembly Chap. 6 - 11

Releasing the decompressor cable . . Chap. 6 - 12

Removing the engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 12

Removing the kickstart . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 12

Removing the engine from the frame . Chap. 6 - 12

4 Workshop manual RR 4T- 400 - 450 - 525



Place the vehicle on a central stand. Drain the engine oil (seeChapter 4 Maintenance ).

Removing the saddleRemove the left-hand and right-hand saddle screws. Removethe saddle by pulling it towards the back of the vehicle.

Removing the fuel tankTo remove the tank together with the deflectors, unscrew theleft-hand and right-hand screws fixing it to the radiator.

Remove the central screw as shown in the figure and disengagethe tank.

Close the fuel cock, remove the fuel line and take off the reser-voir.

56 - Engine Release 01 Date 09/2007



Removing the right-hand side panel

To gain access to the silencer fixing screws, it is first necessaryto remove the right-hand side panel.

Pay attention to the plastic catches between the side pan-el and the mudguard.

Removing the silencer

Loosen the two screws shown in the figure.

Remove the spring that fastens the silencer to the exhaust pipe.

Be careful to avoid injury from the spring.

Draining the cooling system

Place a container as shown in the figure to collect the coolant.Unscrew drain screw 1 on the cylinder front.

Remove the radiator cap in the upper part of the system and al-low the coolant to drain completely.Refit the drain screw using, if necessary, a new seal.


1



Removing the left-hand radiator

To remove the left-hand radiator, it is first necessary to discon-nect the upper pipe after removing the clamp as shown in thefigure.

Subsequently remove the clamp as shown in the figure and re-move the lower pipe.

Removing the horn

Remove the horn and the related bracket so as to facilitate theremoval of the plastic bumper.

Loosen the two screws 1 and remove the left-hand radiator.

Right-hand radiator - cylinder connecting pipe

Remove the clamp shown in the figure and disconnect the right-hand radiator lower pipe from the cylinder.


1



Removing the intake sleeve

Disconnect the carburettor intake sleeve.

Rear frame

Remove the two screws 1 to the left and right of the rear frameand loosen the two screws 2.

Disconnecting the electrical system

Disconnect all the electrical connections, cutting the wire clampswhere necessary.

Tipping over the rear frame

It is now possible to overturn the rear frame towards the front ofthe vehicle.

To avoid scratching the rear mudguard, place a soft clothover the handlebars.

Disconnecting the rearbrake pump

Unscrew the two screws 1 todisengage the rear brakepump from the frame.


1

2

1



Disengaging the exhaust pipe

Release the two springs that support the exhaust pipe with thecylinder

Take care to avoid hand injury.

Remove the screw that fixes the exhaust pipe to the frame.

Releasing the rear shock absorber

Disengage the shock absorber from the frame as shown in thefigure.

Removing the exhaust pipe

It is now possible to remove the exhaust pipe by pulling it to-wards the front of the vehicle.

Removing the drive chain

Find the split link, move it onto the sprocket and remove the re-tainer as shown in the figure. Undo the chain and remove it.




Removing the engine/swingarm pin

Remove the engine/swingarm pin. For safety reasons, it is ad-visable to unscrew the left side while holding the pin in positionon the right side.

Removing the rear suspension linkage

Remove the linkage pin as previously described.

Removing the rear end

The swingarm assembly can now be removed from the vehicle.

Removing the throttle twist grip assembly

When the carburettor needs to be removed, it is advisable to re-move the throttle twist assembly from the handlebars.

Removing the carburettor

Detach the sleeve that connects the cylinder to the carburettorand remove the carburettor together with the cables and thepreviously removed twist grip.




Removing the brake pedal pull-off spring

Removing the spark plug cap

Removing the water delivery pipe from the pump

Removing the front sprocket casing

Unscrew screw 1 and screw 2 on the opposite side.

Removing the clutch pump assembly

Remove the clutch assembly without disconnecting the pipe soas to avoid having to fill and bleed the system again.


21



Releasing the decompressor cable

Removing the engine

Remove the lower engine/frame pivot pin.

Remove the upper engine/frame pivot pin.

Removing the kickstart

Loosen the screw shown in the figure and remove the kickstart.

Removing the engine from the frame

Remove the engine from the frame, extracting it from the leftside. Place the engine on special tool 3625132.




Pag. 13

ENGINE SECTION- DISASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

6



CONTENTS

Draining the oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 15

Removing the oil filters . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 15

Removing the front sprocket . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 15

Removing the clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 16

Pulling out the flywheel . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 17

Removing the clutch hub and drum . . Chap. 6 - 17

Removing the oil pump . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 18

Removing the cylinder head top . . . . Chap. 6 - 19

Removing the cylinder head,the cylinder and the piston . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 19

Removing the timing chain and gear . Chap. 6 - 21

Removing the electric startand kickstart gears . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 22

Removing the primary torque gearand the free wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 23

Removing the gearshift mechanismand the gear shafts . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 24

Removing the countershaftand the crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 25





Draining the oil – Remove screws 1, 2 e 3 and drain the engine oil into a con-

tainer. – Remove the kickstart and the gearchange lever.

NOTE: Dispose of spent oil without polluting the environ-ment.

Should the engine oil come into contact with the skin,wash with plenty of soap and water.

Removing the oil filters – Unscrew the four screws and remove the two oil filter covers

4.

– Pull the two oil filters out of the crankcase.

NOTE: We recommend using a pair of Seeger ring pliers (seefigure) to pull out the oil filters.

WARNING: There may be an outflow of residual oil dur-ing this operation.

Removing the front sprocket – Remove flange screw 5 together with the spring. – Remove the rear sprocket from the driven shaft. – Remove the distance ring from the driven shaft.

NOTE: If the transmission and the clutch are in working order, itis possible to shift into gear to lock the driven shaft. If, on theother hand, the driven shaft cannot be locked in this way, holdthe front sprocket in position with a suitable retaining spannerand unscrew the flange screw.

– Remove thrust rod 6 from the driving shaft. – Unscrew the two screws 7 and remove the starter motor.

1

2

3

44

5

6

7




– Unscrew the four screws 4 and remove the ignition cover withthe related gasket from the crankcase.

– The stator will stay fitted to the cover.

– Push with the clutch retainer removed previously and unscrewnut 5.

– Remove the clutch retainer.

WARNING: SINCE THE 250 CC MODELS FIT ALONGER CRANKSHAFT FIXING SCREW, IT IS ES-SENTIAL TO PUSH WITH THE CLUTCH RETAINER

WHEN UNSCREWING NUT 5, OTHERWISE THE FIXINGSCREW COULD BE BENT AND CAUSE DAMAGE TO THECRANKCASE.

Removing the clutch – Unscrew all clutch cover screws and remove the cover with its

gasket. – Remove the two centring bushes from the crankcase.

– To prevent the clutch plates from jamming when the clutchsprings are released, loosen the screws following a crosswisepattern.

– Remove the pressure plate with the screws, spring bracketand clutch springs.

– Remove thrust head 1. – Remove all the lined and steel plates from the clutch drum.

– Remove all twelve dragging bushes 2.

– Using a flat chisel, bend up safe-ty plate 4, fit clutch retainer 5with six dragging bushes asshown in the figure and unscrewnut 6.

NOTE: Do not remove the

clutch retainer as it will beused later to unscrew the

flywheel nut.6

4

5

4

4

5




– Position the special tool as shown in the figure, unscrew theprimary torque gear flange nut and remove it.

– Remove the special tool.

THERE ARE FLANGE NUTS WITH LEFT-HAND ANDRIGHT-HAND THREADS. THE FLANGE NUTS BEAR-ING THE CAPTION “LEFT” HAVE A LEFT-HAND

THREAD. THOSE WITH NO INSCRIPTION HAVE A RIGHT-HAND THREAD.

– Bring the crankshaft to the top dead centre. – Unscrew crankshaft fixing screw 1 and remove retaining ring

2. – Manually screw in the crankshaft fixing screw. – When resistance is felt, slightly move the flywheel to and fro

until the crankshaft screw is inserted in the related opening inthe crankshaft.

– Tighten the crankshaft fixing screw to 10 N·m.

Pulling out the flywheel – Unscrew the two screws 3 and remove the pick-up from the

crankcase. – Fit the puller and pull out the flywheel using the protective cap. – Remove the key from the crankshaft.

NEVER HIT THE FLYWHEEL WITH A HAMMER OR AN-

OTHER TOOL AS THIS COULD CAUSE THE FLY-WHEEL MAGNETS TO COME OFF AND DAMAGE THECRANKSHAFT. PUSH WITH THE PULLER TO AVOID BEND-ING THE FIXING SCREW (250 CC MODELS).

Removing the clutch hub and drum – Fit the protective cap to the driving shaft and then fit the puller. – Remove the hub from the driving shaft. – Remove from the driving shaft clutch drum 4 with the support

bush and the two thrust washers.

1

2

3

5

4




– Remove clutch drum 1 together with stepped washer 2 andthe two half washers 3 from the driving shaft.

2 1

43

– Remove the two needle roller bearings 4 and the supportwasher.

Removing the oil pump – Unscrew the two screws 5 and remove the oil pump cover.

– Remove roller 6, inner rotor 7 and outer rotor 8 from the oilpump casing.

– Remove oilway screws 9 e 10 with the related seal rings andthen remove the oil line.

3

3

4

6

7

8

9

10




Removing the cylinder head top – Unscrew all six screws with the related seal rings and remove

the two valve covers 1 with their gaskets. – Unscrew the spark plug.

– Unscrew the four screws and remove water pump cover 2 withthe related gasket.

– Unscrew all screws 3 on the cylinder head top.

– Using a plastic mallet, carefully hit area A in an upward direc-tion and remove the cylinder head top.

Removing the cylinder head, the cylinder and the piston – Remove screw 4 with the seal ring and the compression

spring. – Unscrew the two screws and pull the chain stretcher out of the

cylinder.

1

2

3

3

3 3

3

A

4




– Position the timing chain separating tool and undo the chain(see figure).

– ENSURE THAT THE EJECTED NAILS DO NOT FALLINTO THE ENGINE. – HOLD THE TIMING CHAIN IN POSITION SO THAT IT

DOES NOT FALL DOWN TOWARDS THE CHAIN CASING.

– REMOVE THE OPEN CHAIN LINK AND REPLACE IT WITHA NEW ONE.

Any link of the timing chain can be opened.

– To prevent the timing chain from falling down to the chain cas-ing, insert a wire clamp into each chain end.

– Remove the camshaft from the cylinder head.

– Remove the three screws 1.

NOTE: – There is no need to remove these three screws if the cylinder

and the cylinder head require no servicing. The cylinder andthe cylinder head can be removed together without having toreplace the cylinder head gasket.

– The screw on the timing chain side is fitted with a copper sealring (6x10x1).

When refitting the parts, replace the copper washer witha new one.

– Remove the four cylinder head screws 2 with the relatedwashers and remove the cylinder head together with the gas-ket.

– Pull up the cylinder while holding the piston in position.

1

1

2




– Remove the Seeger ring and push the piston pin out of thepiston. Remove the piston.

Removing the timing chain and gear – Loosen the two screws 1 and remove chain guard 2. – Remove the timing chain.

– Remove screws 3 and 4, pull the chain stretcher and the chainguide up and out of the crankcase.

– Remove Seeger ring 5.

– Fit the puller and remove the timing gear from the crankshaft.

1

2

4

3

5

1




Removing the electric start and kickstart gears – Remove the two Seeger rings 1 and the thrust washers. Re-

move kickstart idler gear 2 and electric start idler gear 3 fromtheir support pins.

– Remove the double gear and the needle roller cage from thesupport pin. Remove the support pin from the crankcase.

– Carefully unscrew flange screw 4 while holding the kickstartspring in position. Decompress the kickstart spring and unfas-ten it.

WARNING: TAKE CARE TO AVOID INJURY DUE TO THE RE-LEASE OF THE KICKSTART SPRING.

– Remove the kickstart shaft, the starter coupling, the springand the washer from the crankcase.

– Push back the guide plate and pull out the gear shaft andthrust washer 5 from the crankcase.

– Remove screw 6 and the gear selector. – Unscrew screw 7 and remove the selector lever together with

the bushing and the spring.

NOTE: Remove the selector lever only if the crankcase is to be

replaced.

– Remove safety washer 8. Remove the thrust washer, the oilpump gear and the needle roller from the oil pump shaft.

1

2 1

3

4

86

5

7




Removing the primary torque gear and the free wheel – Remove flange nut 1.

NOTE: THERE ARE FLANGE NUTS WITH LEFT-HAND ANDRIGHT-HAND THREADS. THE FLANGE NUTS BEARING THECAPTION “LEFT” HAVE A LEFT-HAND THREAD. THOSEWITH NO INSCRIPTION HAVE A RIGHT-HAND THREAD.

– Pull out from the crankcase the oil pump shaft complete withthe roller, inner rotor 3 and outer rotor 4.

– Remove the two opposed screws 5.

– Fit the puller and remove the primary torque gear from thecrankshaft.

– Loosen the crankshaft fixing screw. – Unscrew all thirteen crankcase screws.

1

43

5

2




Removing the gearshift mechanism and the gear shafts – Lay down the engine on one side. – Release the engine fastening on the stand. – Detach the left-hand crankcase half using suitable tools posi-

tioned on the specially designed supports. Alternatively, gen-tly tap the driven shaft with a plastic mallet.

TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE SEALING SURFACES,AVOID SEPARATING THE CRANKCASE WITH ASCREWDRIVER OR A SIMILAR TOOL.

– Remove the left-hand crankcase half with its gasket. – Remove the two centring bushes from the crankcase and fix

the right-hand crankcase half in the stand.

– Remove thrust washer 1, O-ring 2 and inner ring nut 3. – Remove the two fork guide rods 4 with the four springs from

the crankcase and turn the gearshift forks to one side.

– Remove desmodromic mechanism 5. – Remove gearshift forks 6.

During the removal, ensure that gearshift bushes A onthe fork dragging pins are not left in the desmodromicmechanism.

– Jointly remove the driving shaft and the driven shaft from theirseats.

– Remove 1st speed idler gear 7 from the crankcase togetherwith the needle roller cage and the two thrust washers.

3

1

4 4

2

6 5

6

7

A




Removing the countershaft and the crankshaft – Turn the crankshaft until the marks on the countershaft and

the crankshaft are aligned. – In this position the crankshaft can be removed from its seat.

– Remove the crankshaft.

– Clean all the parts, check them for wear and replace as nec-

essary.

NOTE: When the engine is overhauled, it is advisable toreplace all gaskets, oil seals, O-rings and bearings.



Pag. 27

ENGINE SECTION- OVERHAULING THE ENGINE

6



CONTENTS

IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT

CRANKCASE SERVICING . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 29

Left-hand crankcase half . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 30

Right-hand crankcase half . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 31

Desmodromic mechanism ball bearing 3 Chap. 6 - 32

“60” oil jet 8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 32

“100” oil jet 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 33

By-pass valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 33

Clutch cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 33

Crankshaft oil seal 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 33

Oil channel 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 33

Crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 34

Countershaft gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 35

Compensating for thecrankshaft axial play . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 35

Cylinder - Nikasil lining . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 36

Measuring the piston and the cylinder -Determining the piston fit . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 36

Checking the piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 37

Checking the piston rings

and their gaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 37Checking the oil pumps for wear . . . . Chap. 6 - 37

Lubrication system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 38

Cylinder head top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 39

Rocker arm pins 5 and 6 . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 39

Rocker arm rollers 8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 39

Adjusting screws 9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 39

Decompressor shaft 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 39

Cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 40

Sealing surface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 41

Valve guides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 41

Valve seats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 41

Valves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 41

Valve springs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 41Valve springs for the 250 cc model . . Chap. 6 - 41

Valve stem linings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 41

Camshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 42

Preassembling the camshaft . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 43

Automatic stretcher . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 44

Valve gear control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 44

Checking the clutch for wear . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 45

Checking the kickstart for wear . . . . . Chap. 6 - 46

Preassembling the kickstart shaft . . . Chap. 6 - 46

Gearshift mechanism . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 47

Preassembling the shaftof the gearshift mechanism . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 47

Gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 48

Assembling the driving shaft . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 48

Gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 49Assembling the driven shaft . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 49

Ignition system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 50

Checking the stator and the pick-up . Chap. 6 - 50

Replacing the stator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 50

Electric start gears . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 51

Checking the operationof the free wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 52

Replacing the free wheel hub . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 52

28 Manuale di Officina RR 4T - 400 - 450 - 525



IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT CRANKCASE SERVICING

NOTE: Read through this paragraph before begin-ning work, then determine the reassembly sequenceso that the crankcase halves can undergo a single

heat treatment for the replacement of the bearings.If necessary, use drifts of suitable diameter to remove thebearings. Remove the reference bushings and place thecrankcase halves on a flat surface. The prevent damage tothe crankshaft sealing surfaces, the support surface shouldbe large enough to allow the crankcase sealing surfaces torest completely on it. A wooden surface is recommendedfor the purpose. If a suitable press is unavailable, fit thebearings and the seal rings with the greatest care usingsuitable tools. Cold-working bearings fall almost sponta-neously into their respective seats when the crankcase hal-ves reach a temperature of 150° C.If the bearings are not firmly in place after the crankcase

has cooled down, the subsequent heating would probablycause them to turn in their seats. In that case the crankca-se will have to be replaced.

296 - Motore Release 01 Date 09/2007




Left-hand crankcase halfRemove all the oil seals and heat the crankcase half in an ovenat a temperature of approximately 150° C.

Crankshaft roller bearing 1Using a suitable drift, push in the bearing from the outside. Fitthe new bearing, pushing it from the inside to its abutting end.

Driving shaft ball bearing 2Using a suitable drift, push in the bearing from the outside. Fitthe new bearing, pushing it from the inside to its abutting end.

Driven shaft roller bearing 3Using a suitable drift, push in the bearing from the outside. Fitthe new bearing, pushing it from the inside to its abutting end.

Gear shaft oil seal 4Fit the new oil seal pushing it from the outside to the correct le-vel, with the open side facing inward.

Driven shaft oil seal 5Fit the new oil seal pushing it from the outside to the correct le-vel, with the open side facing inward.

Countershaft ball bearing 6Using a bearing puller, extract the bearing from the crankcasehalf.Insert the new bearing and push it to its abutting end.

Desmodromic mechanism ball bearing 7At a temperature of approximately 150° C the ball bearing co-mes out of its seat almost spontaneously.If necessary, hit the crankcase half against a flat wooden board.Insert the new bearing and push it to the correct level.

Gear shaft needle roller bearing 8Push in the bearing from the outside.Insert the new bearing, pushing it from the inside to the correctlevel.

– When the crankcase is cold, ensure that the bearings arefirmly seated.

1

3

8

7

2

6

4

5

8

7

WARNING: To avoid burns, be sure to wear protectiveclothes when using the oven.




The oil pump casing should show no signs of scoring or seizu-re.

Blow all the oil channels with compressed air and ensure thatthey are clear.

Check that the two steady pins 1 are firmly seated. If necessarylock with Loctite 243.

Right-hand crankcase halfRemove all the oil seals and heat the crankcase half in an ovento a temperature of approximately 150° C.

Crankshaft roller bearing 2Using a suitable drift, push in the bearing from the outside. Fitthe new bearing, pushing it from the inside to its abutting end.

Driving shaft ball bearing 3Using a suitable drift, push in the bearing from the outside. Fitthe new bearing, pushing it from the inside to its abutting end.

NOTE: Driving shaft ball bearing 3 is fastened by a screw. Ap-ply Loctite 243 to the screw thread and tighten to 5 N·m.

Driven shaft ball bearing 4

Using a suitable drift, push in the bearing from the outside. Fitthe new bearing, pushing it from the inside to its abutting end.

Crankshaft oil seal 5

Insert the new oil seal and push it with is open side facing inwarduntil it is flush.

Kickstart idler gear support pin 6. Electric start idler gear supportpin 7. As a rule, support pins are not subject to wear. Replace-ment of the support pins should be carefully evaluated, since inmost cases the operation causes damage to the crankcase.



Countershaft ball bearing 1 and oil seal 2Using a suitable puller, extract the ball bearing from the crank-case half and remove the oil seal.Press in the new oil seal with the open side facing downwardsuntil it is flush.Press in the new ball bearing to its abutting end.

Desmodromic mechanism ball bearing 3Remove screw A.At a temperature of approximately 150° C the ball bearing co-mes out of its seat almost spontaneously.If necessary, hit the crankcase half against a flat wooden board.Insert the new bearing and push it to its abutting end. Apply Loc-tite 243 to the thread of screw A and tighten to 5 N·m.

Gear shaft needle roller bearing 4Push in the needle roller bearing from the outside.Insert the new bearing, pushing it in from the outside until it isflush.

– When the crankcase half has cooled down, ensure that thebearing is securely seated.

Kickstart release plate 5When replacing the release plate, apply Loctite 243 to the twoscrews and tighten to 8 N·m.

Oil pump casing 6 should bear no signs of scoring or seizure.

Ensure that the passages of all oil channels 7 are clear.

To clean all the oil channels and check that their passa-ges are clear, it is advisable to remove the two jets andthe by-pass valve (see below).

“60” oil jet 8Remove the oil jet and blow the oil channel with compressed air.Degrease the oil jet thread, apply Loctite 243 and refit the oil jet.

NOTE: This jet cools down the piston by spraying engine oil on-to its lower side.


1 2

3 A

4

5

7

6

8



“100” oil jet 1Remove the oil jet and blow the oil channel with compressed air.Degrease the oil jet thread, apply Loctite 243 and refit the oil jet.

NOTE: : This jet provides the right quantity of oil for the con-necting rod bearing.

By-pass valveCheck that the valve piston, the sealing surface and the com-pression spring are not damaged.

Minimum length of compression spring 2: 23.5 mm

If the spring is shorter than 23.5 mm, the by-pass valve

opening pressure is reduced. This entails a decrease inthe oil pressure and thereby greater wear.

Blow all the oil channels with compressed air and check that thepassages are clear.

Clutch coverKickstart shaft oil seal 3Remove the old oil seal with a screwdriver.Fit the new oil seal and push it to its abutting end.

Crankshaft oil seal 4Remove the old oil seal with a screwdriver.Fit the new oil seal and push it to its abutting end, with its openside facing downwards.

Oil channel 5Blow with compressed air and check that the passage is clear.


1

2

3

5

4




A

B

CrankshaftIf the connecting rod bearing is replaced, take care to properlyposition the coupling shaft. The holes in the shaft section A andin the coupling shaft B must be aligned.

IF THE COUPLING SHAFT IS FORCED IN OUT OF PO-SITION, THE CONNECTING ROD BEARING WILL RE-

CEIVE LITTLE OR NO OIL AND WILL CONSEQUENTLYBE DAMAGED.

If the crankshaft is to be reused, be sure to check the offset ofthe shaft sections. Place the crankshaft on a roller equalizer orsimilar equipment and use a comparator to measure the offsetat the ends of the shaft sections.

Offset of shaft sections: ≤ 0.08 mm

Check the radial and axial plays of the connecting rod bearing.Radial play: ≤ 0.05 mmAxial play: ≤ 1.10 mm




Measuring the outside diameter of the handwheelsUsing a vernier caliper, measure the outside diameter of thehandwheels as shown in the figure.

Outside diameter of handwheels = 65 mm ± 0.05 mm

Countershaft gear – To remove the countershaft gear from the crankshaft, it is first

necessary to remove the inner ring nut of the cylindrical rollerbearing (see below).

– Whenever the cylindrical roller bearings are replaced, the in-ner collars on the crankshaft also need to be replaced.

– To this end, clamp the crankshaft in a vice by the shaft section

fitting the inner collar to be replaced. – Heat special tool Part No. 3625193 on an electric hotplate to

approximately 150° C and immediately push it onto the innercollar. Squeeze the special tool hard to obtain good heat tran-smission and remove the inner collar from the crankshaft.

– Remove the two screws from the countershaft gear. – Insert the two screws 1 into M6 threaded holes 2. – Remove the countershaft gear from the crankshaft and evenly

tighten the two screws. – Before fitting the countershaft gear, heat it to approximately

100° C. – Degrease the two countershaft gear fixing screws and apply

Loctite 243 to their threads. – Fit the countershaft gear to the crankshaft so that mark C is in

the coupling shaft area. – Fit the fixing screws and tighten to 8 N·m. – Before fitting a new inner collar, heat the special tool again to

about 150° C, fit it with the inner collar and immediately pushit onto the shaft section.

– Allow the inner collar to cool down for about 30 seconds andthen, using a suitable tube, hit the inner collar until it is seatedproperly.

– After replacing the inner collars, measure the crankshaft axialplay.

NEVER ATTEMPT TO INSERT AN INNER COLLAR BYHITTING IT WHILE THE CRANKSHAFT IS HELD IN A VI-CE BY A SHAFT SECTION. THIS WOULD RISK COM-

PRESSING THE SHAFT SECTIONS, MAKING THE CRANK-SHAFT UNUSABLE.

Compensating for the crankshaft axial play – Insert the crankshaft in the right-hand crankcase half and fit

the crankcase gasket. – Fit the crankcase screws in the engine base area and tighten them. – Fit the comparator on the crankcase and measure the crank-

shaft axial play.

Axial play: 0.1 - 0.2 mm

– If the measurement does not correspond to the nominal value,proceed to rectify the axial play.

– To this end, remove the crankshaft and then remove the innercollar from the crankshaft on the ignition side using the spe-

cially designed tool. Then add or remove thrust washers asnecessary.

Add thrust washers if the axial play is excessive and re-move them if the axial play is too small. Thrust washerscan only be added on the ignition side.

1

1

C

2

2




Cylinder - Nikasil liningNikasil is the trademark of a cylinder lining procedure developedby the piston manufacturer Mahle. The name is derived from thetwo materials used in the procedure – nickel containing siliconcarbide to make a particularly hard substance. The principal ad-vantages of Nikasil are excellent heat dissipation, making for anincreased power supply, and reduced cylinder weight and wear.

When worn down, the lining can be restored (replaced) at a lowcost providing the cylinder sliding surface is not damaged.

x

y

Measuring the piston and the cylinder - Determining thepiston fit – To determine how worn a cylinder is, measure it at the centre

of the sliding surface with a comparator. – Measure the diameter along axes X and Y to determine

whether any ovalization is present.

Cylinder diameter 250 size I cylinder: 75,000 - 75,012 mm

size II cylinder: 75,013 - 75,025 mm

Cylinder diameter 400 - 450 size I cylinder: 89,000 - 89,012 mm


Cylinder diameter 525 size I cylinder: 95,000 - 95,012 mm


Cylinder size 1 is stamped on the cylinder side in front ofthe chain tunnel; piston size 2 is stamped on the pistontop.

- The piston is measured on the skirt transversally to the pistonpin as shown in the figure.

Piston diameter 250 size I piston: 74,960 - 74,970 mm

size II piston: 74,971 - 74,980 mm


size II pistonI: 88,941 - 88,950 mm





- The piston fit is obtained by subtracting the piston diameter

from the minimum cylinder diameter.Piston fit 250 size I pistonI: 0,030 - 0,052 mm

size I piston: 0,032 - 0,055 mm

wear limit: 0,12 mm

Piston fit 400 size I pistonI: 0,060 - 0,082 mm

size I pistonI: 0,062 - 0,085 mm

wear limit: 0,12 mm

Piston fit 450 size I piston: 0,054 - 0,096 mm


wear limit: 0,12 mm

Piston fit 525 size I pistonI: 0,050 - 0,070 mm


wear limit: 0,12 mm

1

2




1

2

2

3

3

4

5

6

6

7

7

7

7

7

7

8

8

Lubrication systemOil line 1Ensure that the soldered joints present no capillary cracks. Blow the oil line with compressed air to check whether the pas-sage is clear. Also check that there are no friction points on the oil line. Always replace the seal rings with new ones(8x12x1).

O-ring 2At each oil change, also replace the O-rings.

Oil pump cover 3Check the inside for signs of seizure caused by the oil pump rotors and if necessary replace.

Oil pump shaft 4

Place the shaft on a flat surface and check its offset.

Oil pump gear 5Check the teeth for wear. The roller seat should not be damaged.

Oil units 6Clean the two oil units with low-pressure compressed air.

O-rings 7Check their porosity and if necessary replace them.

Oil pump rotors 8Insert the oil pump rotors in the crankcase and check them as shown in the figure on the previous page. No particlesshould stick to the rotors.




211

3

1

4

4

5

6

7

7

89 9

10

10

Cylinder head top – Remove Seeger ring 1 and pull decompressor shaft 2 and

spring 3 out of the hole. – Remove the two terminals 4 from the cylinder head top to-

gether with rocker arm pivots 5 and 6. Remove rocker arms 7. – Clean all the components and check them for wear.

Rocker arm pins 5 and 6The rocker arm pivots should show no signs of scoring andshould rotate freely in rocker arms 7.

Rocker arm rollers 8Check that the rocker arm rollers can slide freely. If any radialplay is found, replace the rocker arm.

Adjusting screws 9The contact surfaces of the adjusting screws should be flat.

Decompressor shaft 2Check the sliding of the decompressor shaft and its play in thesupport hole.Replace O-ring 11.

Replacing O-rings 10. – Before reassembly, carefully oil all the components. – Position the rocker arms in the cylinder head top and then fit

the rocker arm pins.Shorter rocker arm 6 is to be fitted at the back. – Fit terminals 4 and turn them so as to allow the cylinderhead top screws to be fitted at a later stage.

– Fit decompressor shaft 2 and preload the spring.




1

2

modelli 250

modelli 250

Cylinder head – Unscrew the three screws 1 and remove exhaust flange 2 to-

gether with its gasket.

– Using the specially designed tool, remove the four valves.

– The 250 cc model fits conical valves. – Used valves are to be reinserted in the same valve gui-de. To ensure this, we recommend inserting the valves in

a piece of cardboard in the same way they are fitted in the cy-linder head (see figure).




– Remove spring caps 1 and valve springs 2 from the cylinderhead.

– Remove the valve stem linings from the valve guides and re-move spring holders 3.

The 250 cc model fits conical springs.

Sealing surfaceCheck the spark thread and the valve seats for damage orcracks. Using a straightedge and a thickness gauge, check tosee if any distortion is present. Maximum allowable distortion:0.10 mm.

Valve guidesCheck the valve guides with limit gauge 4 (Ø 6.05 mm). If thegauge can be easily inserted into the valve guide, the latter willhave to be replaced.

Valve seatsThe valve seats should show no signs of hammering-in. Widthof sealing surface: intake valve max. 1.50 mm; exhaust valve

max. 2.00 mm. If necessary, grind the valves.

ValvesCheck the valve heads for signs of wear and floating. Maximumallowable valve head floating: 0.03 mm. The valve seat shouldshow no signs of hammering-in. The sealing surface should beat the centre of the valve seat. The valve stem is chromium-pla-ted; wear generally occurs on the valve guide.

Valve springsVisually check that the valve springs are not broken or worn.Measure their length with a vernier caliper. The minimum al-lowable valve length is 39.20 mm for the outer valve springs and36.45 mm for the inner valve springs. Replace as necessary.

Valve springs for the 250 cc modelVisually check that the valve springs are not broken or worn.Measure their length with a vernier caliper. The minimum al-lowable length for the valve springs is 37.70 mm. Shortersprings will have to be replaced.

Valve stems liningsAlways replace the valve stem linings when the valves are re-moved.

– Insert the four spring holders 3 into the cylinder head. – Fit the valve stem linings on the valve guides and lubricate. – Carefully oil the valve stems and insert the valves into the val-

ve guides. When refitting, ensure that the valves are properly

positioned. – Fit valve springs 2 and insert spring caps 1 into the valve

springs.

1

2

3

4




13

2

4

8

8

5

97

6

10

11

12

Camshaft – Remove Seeger ring 1 and water pump impeller 2. – Pull out roller 3 from the shaft hole and remove lining holder 4

from the camshaft.

– Remove ball bearing 5 from the camshaft with a suitable pul-ler (see figure).

NEVER CLAMP THE CAMSHAFT IN A VICE.

– Release spring 6 from decompressor shaft 7 while extractingthe latter from the camshaft.

– Unscrew the two screws 8 and remove camshaft gear 9. – Using the puller, remove ball bearing 10 from the camshaft.

Clean and check all components and if necessary replace them.

Camshaft

Check the support points and the cams for signs of wear.

Replace ball bearings 5 and 10.

Decompressor shaft 7

Check the play of the shaft in the support and the wear of itscontact surface with the rocker arm.

Camshaft gear 9

Check the wear of the teeth.

Ensure that screw 11 is firmly seated.




– Press oil seals 1 out of seal holding bush 2. – Fit the new oil seals with the gaps facing outward, pressing

them in until they are flush. Carefully grease the sealing lips. – Remove the two O-rings 3 from the seal holding bush and re-

move any residues with a wire brush. – Fit two new O-rings. – The seal holder can be removed from the cylinder head with

the aid of the two M3 threaded holes 4 without removing thecylinder head top.

1

1

33

28

5

9

7

6

6

1013

1412

Preassembling the camshaft – Apply Loctite 243 on the threads of the two screws 6 and fit

camshaft gear 7. Tighten the screws to 28 N·m. – Key ball bearing 5 with a socket punch. – Fit decompressor shaft 8 and spring 9. Preload the spring by

approximately 1/2 turn and insert the spring end into slot B.Check if the decompressor shaft returns automatically to the

starting position. If that is not the case, increase the springpreload.

2

14

9

B

8




Automatic stretcher – Fully extract the automatic stretcher pressure pin and check

that it can slide freely. – Check the wear of the pressure pin teeth and the dog.

– When refitting, push the dog in the direction indicated by thearrow so that the pressure pin no longer jams and then fullyinsert the pressure pin into the stretcher body.

1

3

42

Valve gear controlThoroughly clean all the components and check them for wear.

Timing pinion 1Check the teeth for nicks or signs of wear.

Chain stretcher shoe 2Check for signs of sliding on the contact surface.

Chain guide 3Check for signs of sliding on the contact surfaces.

Chain coupling 4

Replace the open link of the timing chain.

➙ ➙ ➙ ➙

➦ ➦




Checking the clutch for wearThrust head 1Check the thrust head for signs of seizure and ensure thatit can slide freely.

Axial bearing 2Ensure that the bearing is not damaged.

Push rod 3Place the push rod on a flat surface and check its offset.

Clutch springs 4Minimum length 41.5 mm (43 mm when new). If neces-

sary, replace all six springs.

Seven cork discs 5Minimum allowable thickness 1.7 mm (1.8 mm whennew). The cork discs must be flat.

Four 1.0-mm middle discs 6Ensure that the discs are flat and free from mechanicaldamage. Replace as necessary.

Four 1,4-mm middle discs 6AEnsure that the discs are flat and free from mechanicaldamage. Replace as necessary.

Clutch hub 8Check for damage and signs of wear.

Pressure plate 9Check for signs of damage on contact surface A with thesteel plate.

Clutch drum 10Check the wear of thrust surfaces B of the lined platesand the clutch drum. If the combined recesses exceed 0.5mm, replace the lined plates and the clutch drum.

Needle roller bearings 11

Check for signs of wear or damage.




6

78

9

5

12

1110

1

3

4

2

Checking the kickstart for wearRemove all components from the kickstart shaft and clean them.

Starter gear 1Check the wear of the teeth and the play of the support.

Starter idler gear 2

Check to see if there is any play or any sign of seizure on the sup-port. Check the wear of the teeth, which are in constant mesh withthe clutch drum.

Starter coupling 3Check the inclined surface and the teeth for signs of wear.

Kickstart shaft 4Check the support points and the teeth for signs of wear or da-mage and ensure that the starter gear oil hole is clear.

Preassembling the kickstart shaft – Clamp kickstart shaft 4 in a vice (using protective jaws), with

its toothed end facing upwards. – Fit thrust washer 5, needle roller cage 6 and starter gear 1

with the stop teeth facing downwards. – Fit thrust washer 7 and Seeger ring 8 with the sharp edge fa-

cing upwards. – Fit dragging hub 9 taking care to align its groove with the ho-

le in the kickstart shaft. – Fit kickstart spring 10, inserting its inside end into the hub

groove and the kickstart shaft hole. – Remove the kickstart shaft from the vice. – Fit starter coupling 3 on the kickstart shaft taking care to align

mark A on the starter coupling with oil hole B in the kickstartshaft.

– Fit the kickstart shaft with starter coupling spring 11 and thru-

st washer 12.

B

A




F

7

11

6

8

9

10

Gearshift mechanismGearshift forks 1Check wear at ends A. When the forks are new, their thicknessranges from 4.8 to 4.9 mm. The wear limit is 4.6 mm.

Desmodromic mechanism 2Check the wear of profiled grooves B.

Check the desmodromic mechanism support in ball bearing 3.Ball bearing 3Check that it can turn smoothly.

Bushes 4Ensure that the bushes present no dents or cracks.

Fork guide rods 5Check the offset of the rods on a flat surface. Check for signs ofscoring or seizure. The gearshift forks should slide freely on theguide rods.

Selector 6Check wear at return points C.Check the wear of selector return surface D (if the surface isdeeply worn, replace the selector).Check that guide pin E is firmly seated and not worn.

Gearshift mechanismPreassemble the shaft of the gearshift mechanism and measu-re clearance F between selector 6 and the guide plate. The playshould be 0.40 - 0.80 mm.

Preassembling the shaft of the gearshift mecha-nism – Clamp the short end of the shaft of the gearshift

mechanism in a vice (use protective jaws). – Fit selector 6 with the guide pin facing downwards

and then attach the guide pin to the guide plate. – Fit compression spring 7. – Fit spring holding bush 8, top it with return spring

9 with the bent end facing upwards and then atta-ch it to pin 11 (see figure).

– Fit thrust washer 10.

1

1

2

B 3

4

4

6

7

C

D

E

8

9

10

4

A

5

5

1




1

6

7

89

10

11

45

2

3

GearboxClamp the driving shaft and the driven shaft in vices (using protective jaws). Removethe gears and check if the following parts show signs of wear or seizure:• Needle roller cages.• Bearing surfaces of the driving shaft, driven shaft and idler gears.• Gear couplings.• Sides of all gear teeth.• Tooth profile of the driving and driven shafts and of the related gears.• Check that the profiles of all the gears can move smoothly.

Thoroughly clean all the parts and replace any faulty components.Always fit new Seeger rings whenever the transmission is repaired.

Assembling the driving shaft – Clamp the driving shaft in a vice with its grooved end facing downwards (use pro-tective jaws).

– Carefully oil all the components before assembling them. – Fit needle roller cage 2, top it with 5th-speed idler gear 1 with the front couplings fa-

cing upwards. – Insert thrust washer 3 (25.2x32x1.5 mm) and Seeger ring 4 with the sharp edge fa-

cing upwards. – Fit 3rd-/4th-speed double sliding gear 5 with the smaller gear at the bottom and then

fit Seeger ring 6. – Fit toothed washer 7 (25.2x32x1.5 mm) and needle roller cage 8. – Fit 6th-speed idler gear 9 with the slot facing upwards. – Fit 2nd-speed fixed gear 10 with the shoulder at the bottom and thrust washer 11

(17.2x30x1 mm).

– Finally check that all the gears can move smoothly.




7 8

5

6

4

3

2

1

9

1011

12

13

14

1516

1718

GearboxClamp the driving shaft and the driven shaft in vices (using protective jaws). Remove

the gears and check if the following parts show signs of wear or seizure:• Needle roller cages.• Bearing surfaces of the driving shaft, driven shaft and idler gears.• Gear couplings.• Sides of all gear teeth.• Tooth profile of the driving and driven shafts and of the related gears.• Check that the profiles of all the gears can move smoothly.

Thoroughly clean all the parts and replace any faulty components.Always fit new Seeger rings whenever the gearbox is repaired.

Assembling the driven shaft – Clamp the driving shaft in a vice with its grooved end facing downwards (use pro-

tective jaws). – Carefully oil all components before assembling them. – Fit needle roller cage 2 and 2nd-speed idler gear 1 on the driven shaft with the slot

for the front couplings facing upwards. – Insert thrust washer 3 (25.2x32x1.5 mm) and Seeger ring 4 with the sharp edge fa-

cing upwards. – Fit 6th-speed sliding gear 5 with the fork slot facing upwards. – Fit Seeger ring 6 and toothed washer 7 (25.2x32x1.5 mm). – Fit two-piece needle roller cage 9 + 11 and 4th-speed idler gear 8 with the slot for

the front couplings facing downwards. – Fit 3rd-speed idler gear 10 with the slot for the front couplings facing upwards. – Fit toothed washer 12 (25.2x32x1.5 mm) and Seeger ring 13. – Fit 5th-speed sliding gear 14 with the fork slot facing downwards and thrust washer

15 (20x32x1 mm). – Fit needle roller cage 16, 1st-speed idler gear 17 with the slot facing downwards and

thrust washer 18 (17.2x30x1.5 mm).




Ignition systemGeneral informationThe measurements described below are only used to findeasily detectable faults. Inside short circuits, which pro-duce feeble sparks with a low ignition power, can only bediscovered with a specially designed ignition test bench.In case of problems first check the wires and connectors

of the ignition system.

When taking a measurement, be sure to use a suitablemeasuring range. The CDI unit can only be checked on aspecially designed ignition test bench.

Checking the stator and the pick-upUsing an ohmmeter, take the following measurements:

NOTE: The following measurements correspond to thenominal values only at a temperature of 20° C. If themeasured values differ considerably from the nominal va-lues, replace the stator.

Replacing the stator – Loosen screw 4 and remove the fixing plate. – Unscrew the two screws 5 and remove the stator from the

ignition cover. – Position the new stator in the ignition cover. Degrease the th-

reads of the three screws and then apply Loctite 243 to them. – Fit the screws and tighten them to 8 N·m. – Arrange the wires without stretching them and then fasten

them with the fixing plate.

Acc. Measurement Colour Resistance

Pick-up red – green 100 Ω ± 20%

4K-3B Stator black/red – red/white 12,6 Ω ± 20%

Charged coil ground – yellow 0,65 Ω ± 20%

bianco – yellow 0,16 Ω ± 20%

5

4

5




1

2

3

4

5

6

7

A

Electric start gears

Idler gear 1Check the teeth and the bearing surface of the idler gear for signs of wear. Also check the idler gear support pin for signsof seizure.

Double gear 2Check the teeth and the bearing surface of the double gear for signs of wear. Also check the double gear support pin forsigns of seizure. Fit the double gear together with the needle roller cage on the support pin and check the play.

Free wheel hub 3Remove the free wheel from the hub and check to see if there are any dents on contact surface A. Thoroughly clean thefree wheel hub.

Free wheel 4Thoroughly clean the free wheel with petroleum and compressed air. Check the free wheel segments for wear and oil itgenerously.

Free wheel gear 5Fit the free wheel gear on the crankshaft and check the play. If necessary, replace the needle bushing. Check for the pre-sence of dents on the contact surface with the free wheel.

NOTE: If double gear 2 or toothed free wheel 5 show signs of damage that warrant their replacement, remember that thetwo parts (2 and 5) can only be replaced together.

Starter motor 6Replace O-ring 7 on the flange.



Checking the operation of the free wheel – Fit free wheel gear 1 on free wheel device 2. – The free wheel gear should rotate clockwise. – Attempting to rotate the free wheel gear anticlockwise should

lock the gear with no idle travel.

Replacing the free wheel hub – Squeeze expansion ring 3 with a pair of Seeger pliers and re-

move it together with free wheel 2.

– Remove the six screws 4. – Using a plastic mallet, hit hub 5 laterally to detach it from the

primary gear. – Fit a new free wheel hub on the primary gear. – Degrease the screw threads, apply Loctite 648 to them and ti-

ghten the screws to 16 N·m following a crosswise pattern.

– Carefully oil free wheel 2 and insert it into hub 5. – Using a pair of Seeger ring pliers, insert the expansion ring in-

to the groove and ensure that it is properly seated. Once theexpansion ring is in place, we recommend hitting it carefullywith a punch.

NOTE: “Notches” A on the expansion ring should mesh with thefree wheel hub slot.


1

2

3

A2

4

5

2

5



ENGINE SECTION- REASSEMBLING THE ENGINE

6



CONTENTS

Fitting the crankshaftand the countershaft . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 55

Fitting the gearboxand the gearshift mechanism . . . . . Chap. 6 - 55

Assembling the crankcase . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 57

Fitting the oil pumps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 58

Fitting the gear selector . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 59

Fitting the electric startand kickstart gears . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 59

Fitting the clutch drum and hub . . . . . Chap. 6 - 61

Fitting the primary pinion nut . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 61

Fitting the timing gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 62

Fitting the piston and the cylinder . . . Chap. 6 - 63

Fitting the cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 63

Fitting the cylinder head top . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 65

Fitting the automatic stretcher . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 66

Adjusting the play of the valves . . . . . Chap. 6 - 66

Fitting the flywheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 67

Fitting the pick-up

and the ignition cover . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 67

Fitting the clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 68

Clutch plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 68

Fitting the oil line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 69

Installing the starter motor . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 69

Fitting the oil filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 70

Adding engine oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 6 - 70




556 - Motor Release 01 Date 09/2007

Fitting the crankshaft and the countershaft – Fasten the right-hand crankcase half to the assembly stand. – Carefully oil the crankshaft roller bearing and grease the oil

seal. – Carefully insert the crankshaft into the bearing.

– Turn the crankshaft until mark A is at the front and then insertthe countershaft into its bearing. Ensure that crankshaft markA is between the two countershaft marks B.

Fitting the gearbox and the gearshift mechanism – Turn the engine onto one side. – Simultaneously insert driving shaft 1 and driven shaft 2 into

their respective bearings.

– Attach bushes 3 to the gearchange forks with a little grease.

– Attach the four springs 4 to the fork guide rods with a littlegrease.

A

B

B

1

2

3

4

4

4

4



– Oil the ends of the gearshift forks and attach them to the slid-ing gears.

– Insert the desmodromic mechanism into its bearing.

– Attach the gearshift forks to the desmodromic mechanism andfit the two fork guide rods 2 along with the springs.

– Ensure that the following parts are fitted:inner race of bearing 3O-ring 4thrust washer 52 centring bushes in the crankcase


1

A

4

5

2 2

3




M6x...

45

45

45

30

45

45

45

30

60

60

75

60

60

Assembling the crankcase – Remove the engine retainer from the stand. – Apply a thin film of grease to the crankcase sealing surface

and fit a new gasket. – Lay down the left-hand crankcase half and tap it with a plastic

mallet until it is properly positioned. – Ensure that the crankcase gasket is properly seated.

– Grease the crankcase screws, their threads and the cylinderhead resting surface. Fit the screws and tighten them (for thelengths of the screws, refer to the diagram).

– Check that all the shafts can move smoothly before and aftertightening the crankcase screws to 10 N·m.

– Clamp the engine in the stand. – Accurately cut off the gasket that protrudes from the cylinder

base and the sealing surfaces. – Check to see if the key is fitted to the crankshaft. – Carefully oil the free wheel and the needle roller cage in the

free wheel gear. – Insert free wheel gear 1 into the free wheel hub and fit all the

components together on the crankshaft.

The primary pinion flange nut will be fitted at a later stage.

1

NOTE: This diagram shows all the

lengths of the carter fixing screws.



Fitting the oil pumps – Using a cloth, carefully clean the rest surface of the oil pump

cover. – Insert the roller into the oil pump shaft. – Fit the inner and outer rotors to the oil pump shaft so that the

two centres A and B are placed next to each other, and theninsert all the part into the crankcase.

The inner and outer rotors should be fitted so that theircentres face the crankcase.

– Fill the oil pump casing with engine oil. – Degrease the threads of the two screws 1 (M5x12), apply Loc-

tite 222, fit the oil pump cover and tighten the screws to 6 N·m. – Insert roller 2 into the oil pump shaft hole.

If the selector plate has been removed, it can now be eas-ily refitted. – Fit oil pump gear 3, thrust washer 4 and safety washer

5. – Check the smoothness of the oil pump shaft by turning the oil

pump gear.

– Using a cloth, carefully clean the rest surface of the oil pumpcover.

– Position the inner and outer rotors in the crankcase so that thetwo centres A and B are placed next to each other.

The inner and outer rotors should be fitted so that theircentres face the crankcase.

– Fit roller 6. – Degrease the thread of the two screws (M5x16) and apply

Loctite 222. – Fill the oil pump casing with oil. – Fasten the oil pump cover with the two screws and tighten

them to 6 N·m. – After fitting the oil pumps, check their smoothness by turning

the oil pump gear.


A

1

2

3

4

5

A

B

6



Fitting the gear selector – Fit screw 1 (M5x20) with washer 2, selector lever 3, spring

holding bush 4 and selector lever spring 5. – Apply Loctite 243 to the screw thread and tighten the screw to

6 N·m.

– Move the selector lever away from the desmodromic mecha-nism and fit the latter with the gear selector. Ensure that theflat points are off-centre.

– Apply Loctite 243 to the thread of the screw 7 (M6x30) andtighten to 10 N·m.

– Grease the preassembled shaft of the gearshift mechanismand insert it in the bearings together with the thrust washer un-til the selector comes into contact with the gear selector.

– Push back the selector and push in the gear control shaft un-til it stops.

– Check that spring ends A touch crankcase dog B on the leftand right sides.

– Fit the gearchange lever and then insert all the gears in suc-cession. When changing gears, turn the driving shaft, then re-move the gearchange lever again.

Fitting the electric start and kickstart gears – Oil the support surfaces of the kickstart gear 8 and of electric

start gear 9. Fit the gears to their respective support pins. – Fit the thrust washers and the Seeger rings with the sharp

edge facing outward.


1

6

7

A

B

A

8

2

34

5

1




– Insert the support pins into the crankcase holes. Fit needleroller cage 1 and double gear 2.

– Insert the preassembled kickstart shaft into the bearing holeso that the starter coupling is located behind the release plate.

– Attach the spring link to the starter spring, apply Loctite 243 tothe thread of screw 3 (M6x12), preload the starter spring byturning it about 45 degrees clockwise, fasten the spring linkwith the screw and tighten to 10 N·m.

– Position the starter spring so that the distance from the kick-

start shaft does not change.

Exercise extreme caution when fitting the spring as it couldcome off and cause personal injury.

12

3



4

32

1

Fitting the clutch drum and hub – Insert the support washer and needle roller bearings 1. – Fit the driving shaft with clutch drum 2, half washers 3 and

stepped washer 4.

– Heat the clutch hub to approx. 150° C and key it on the drivingshaft.

– Fit a new safety plate.

– Degrease the driving shaft thread and apply Loctite 243 to it. – Position the special tool (see removal procedure), fit flangenut 5 and tighten it to 150 N·m.

– Secure the flange nut with safety plate 6 as shown in the fig-ure.

As a rule, there is no need to heat a used clutch hub be-fore fitting it.

Fitting the primary pinion nut – Position the special tool as shown in the figure. – Degrease the crankshaft thread and apply Loctite 243 to it. – Fit flange nut 7 and tighten it to 150 N·m.

– Bring the crankshaft to the top dead centre and fit the crank-shaft fixing screw without fitting the seal ring.


6

5

7



Fitting the timing gear – Ensure that the key is properly seated in the crankshaft. – Heat timing pinion 1 and fit it to the crankshaft with the high

end facing inward. If necessary, gently tap with a suitabletube.

– Fit Seeger ring 2 with the sharp edge facing outward.

– Degrease the threads of the two screws (M6x25) and applyLoctite 243. Fasten chain guide 3 and chain stretcher shoe 4with the two screws 5 (8 N·m) without forgetting the two bush-

es.

Fit the chain stretcher shoe, locking the screw in the seatin the crankcase B.

NOTE: AFTER TIGHTENING THE CHAIN STRETCHERSHOE, ENSURE THAT IT CAN SLIDE FREELY.

– Fit the timing chain so that the two stretches have the samelength.

NOTA: The timing chain can also be fitted after fitting the cylin-der and the cylinder head.

– Degrease the threads of the two screws 7 (M5x16) and applyLoctite 243. Fit chain guard 6 and tighten the screws to 6 N·m.

– Fit a wire clamp in the two ends of the timing chain (see fig-ure).


1

2

4

3

5

5

B

7

7

6




Fitting the piston and the cylinder – Fit a new cylinder base gasket. – Oil the piston pin bearing in the connecting rod and the piston

pin itself. – Fit the piston and fasten the piston pin with two new retaining

rings.

NOTE: THE ARROW ON THE PISTON TOP MUST POINT INTHE DIRECTION OF TRAVEL.

- Oil the piston and fit the piston rings.

The scraper ring gap should face the back of the vehicle.The compression ring gap should form an angle of 90° with thescraper ring gap.

– Pull up the timing chain through the chain tunnel.

– Push the cylinder onto the piston and remove the mountingring.

WHEN FITTING THE CYLINDER, TAKE CARE NOT TOBREAK THE OIL SCRAPER RING!

Fitting the cylinder head – Check that the two centring bushes are properly seated in the

cylinder. – Fit a new cylinder gasket (with the inscription “ALTO” facing

upwards) and fit the cylinder head and the timing chain.

– Oil the threads and the contact surfaces of the four flangescrews and fit them along with the related washers.

– Tighten the flange screws in three steps following a crosswisepattern:

1st step – tighten until a slight resistance is felt.2nd step – tighten to 40 N·m.3rd step – tighten to 50 N·m.

– Fit and tighten the three screws 1 (M6x45) and 2 (M6x40) to10 N·m.

Screw 2 must be fitted laterally on the timing chain guardwith a new copper retaining ring (6x10x1).

2 1

1



Ensure that drain hole A is facing upwards.

– Insert the camshaft in the cylinder head so that marks B onthe camshaft gear are aligned with the upper edge of the cylin-der (see figure). The automatic decompressor stop screw

must be positioned at the top.

Before fitting the camshaft, lock the crankshaft at the topdead centre using the crankshaft fixing screw.

– Fit the timing chain on the camshaft gear and then fit a newchain joint 1.

– First fit the insert of the special tool as shown in the figure andthen press the chain joint.

– Fit the insert of the special tool as shown in the figure and riv-et the chain joint.

The nailing of the chain coupling should be so strong thatthe cross section of the coupling piece ends is trapezoidalin shape (see sketch).


A

B

B

1




Fitting the cylinder head top – Clean or degrease the sealing surfaces of the cylinder head

top and the cylinder head itself. – Insert the centring bushes in the cylinder head. – Apply a thin film of sealant (Three Bond) over the cylinder

head sealing surface. – Carefully position the cylinder head top and tighten the screws

to 10 N·m. For the screw lengths, refer to the diagram.

NOTE: – Fit the M6x75 screw with a new copper ring 6x10x1.

M6x...

30 3075

45

55 55

5045

NOTE: The dia-

gram shows the

lengths of the

cylinder head

c l a m p i n g

screws.

– Before tightening the screws, check and if necessary adjustthe axial play of the rocker arms.

– To this end, insert a thickness gauge 1 (≠0.05 mm) betweenthe terminal and the rocker arm. Push in the terminal andtighten the screw next to the terminal.

– Tighten the other screws to 10 N·m following a crosswise pat-tern.

Rocker arm axial play: 0.02 - 0.10 mm

Fit the fitting cap, grease the O-rings and fit the seal holder sothat its abutting end faces the camshaft gear.

TO AVOID DAMAGING THE OIL SEALS, BE SURE TOUSE THE FITTING CAP.

The seal holder has a drain hole. Fit the seal holder with the holefacing upwards.

– Remove the fitting cap, insert the roller into the camshaft andfit the water pump impeller with the Seeger ring.

– Fit the water pump cover with a new seal. Tighten the screws(M8x20) to 8 N·m following a crosswise pattern.

1



Fitting the automatic stretcher – Fit the preassembled automatic stretcher 1 with a new gasket. – Fit the two screws (M6x20) with the 6x10x1 copper rings and

tighten them to 8 N·m.

– Using a screwdriver, push in the pressure pin until a slight re-sistance is felt, then push it in one further notch.

– Fit the compression spring and the clamp screw with a new re-taining ring and then tighten to 10 N·m.

A

Adjusting the play of the valves- Valve play A is measured between the valve stem and the ad-

justing screw when the engine is cold.

Cold valve play: 0.12 mm

NOTE: IF THE PISTON IS NOT AT THE TOP DEAD CENTRE,THE VALVES ARE ACTUATED BY THE ROCKER ARMS AND

THE PLAY OF THE VALVES CANNOT BE PROPERLY AD-JUSTED. IN THAT CASE, ROTATE THE CRANKSHAFT ONEMORE TURN AND THEN LOCK IT AGAIN.

– After completing the adjustment, tighten the counternuts to 11N·m.

– Fit the two valve covers 2 with new gaskets and with screws(M6x20) complete with retaining rings (6x10x1). Tighten thescrews to 8 N·m.

– Screw in the spark plug and tighten it to 12 N·m.


1

2




Fitting the flywheel – Unscrew the crankshaft fixing screw, fit seal ring 1 and tighten

the crankshaft fixing screw to 25 N·m (see above). – Ensure that the key is properly seated in the crankshaft and

then fit the flywheel on the crankshaft. – Fit the wave washer and the flange nut. Pushing with the

clutch retainer, tighten the flange nut to 60 N·m.

Fitting the pick-up and the ignition cover – Position the pick-up in the crankcase and insert cable guide 2

in the specially designed opening in the crankcase. – Degrease the thread of the two screws 3 (M5x16), apply Loc-

tite 243 and tighten the screws to 6 N·m.

– Fit a new gasket and fasten the ignition cover with the fourscrews (4 and 5). Tightening torque: 10 N·m.

NOTE: Fit the two longer screws 4 (M6x35) in the holes with thecentring bushes.

2

3

4

5

5

5




Fitting the clutch – Before fitting the clutch, carefully oil the lined plates.

Clutch plates – Place the twelve dragging bushes 3 in the hub. If

necessary fix them with a little grease. – Starting with a middle plate 6 and 6A, alternate eight

middle plates with seven lined plates 5, ending witha thin middle plate 6 at the top. (see figure to side)

– Fit the thrust head. – Position the pressure plate, fit the clutch springs, the spring

cups and the flange screws. – Tighten screws 7 to 10 N·m following a crosswise pattern.

– Ensure that the centring bushes are fitted in the crankcase. – Grease all the oil seals in the clutch cover and fix the clutch

cover gasket with a little grease. – Take special care in ensuring that oil jet 8 in the crankcase is

not blocked by the gasket. – Pour approximately 30 ml of engine oil in the crankshaft hole.

M6x35

M6x30

M6x30

M6x30 M6x30

M6x35

– Carefully position the preassembled clutch cover, pressing itslightly.

– Fit the screws (screw length M6x30 or M6x35 – see figure)and tighten them to 10 N·m.

NOTE: If you have difficulty fitting the clutch cover, check theposition of the starter spring.

7

8



Fitting the oil line- Position oil line 3 and fasten it with the two oilway screws 1

and 2, using new seal rings. Tightening torque: 10 N·m.

Position the oil line so that it does not come into contactwith the engine. Also, when tightening, ensure that the oilline is not taut.

Installing the starter motor – Carefully oil the O-ring on the starter motor and insert the mo-

tor in the crankcase. Fit the two screws 4 (M6x20) and tightenthem to 8 N·m.

– Oil distance ring 5 and slide it onto the driven shaft with thegroove for the O-ring facing inward.

– Fit the chain sprocket with the high collar facing inward. – Degrease the flange nut thread, apply Loctite 243 to it and

tighten the screw with the spring washer to 60 N·m.

NOTE: Before tightening the screw, lock the crankshaft and shiftinto first gear.


1

2

3

4

5




Fitting the oil filter – Pour engine oil into the oil filter casings until they are about

1/4 full. – Insert the two oil filters 1 in the crankcase.

– Oil the O-rings on the oil filter covers and fix covers 2 with thefour screws (M5x16), applying a tightening torque of 6 N·m.

– Fit the kickstart and the gearshift lever.

Adding engine oil – Fit clamping screws 3 and 4 and oil drain screw 5 and then

tighten them.

NOTE: Tightening torques: 3 10 N·m, 4 15 N·m, 5 20 N·m.

ŀ Ł– +0°C

32°F

15W 4015W 50

10W 4010W 50

API: SG, SH

TEMPERATUR

– Remove the clamping screw from the clutch cover and pour in1.20 litres of 10W-50 engine oil (see table in Chapter 3 Tight- ening torques - Specifications - Recommended products ).

– Replace the clamping screw and check the seal of the engine.

NOTE: Check the engine oil level after reinstalling the engine onthe vehicle.

- WE RECOMMEND USING ONLY SYNTHETIC OILSOF KNOWN BRANDS HAVING OR EXCEEDING THEQUALITY REQUIREMENTS OF API CLASSES SG OR

SH (CHECK THE INFORMATION PROVIDED ON THE CON-TAINERS).

- AN INSUFFICIENT QUANTITY OF OIL, OR AN OIL OF IN-FERIOR QUALITY, LEADS TO PREMATURE WEAR OF THEENGINE.

2

1

4

3

5



ENGINE SECTION- INSTALLING THE ENGINE ON THE VEHICLE

6



To mount the engine on the vehicle, follow theprocedures described for its removal in rever-se order, taking care to apply the tighteningtorques and use the products specified inChapter 3 Tightening torques - Specifications - Recommended products.




CARBURETTOR 7



CONTENTS

CARBURETTOR - KEIHIN FCR M X 39 . . . Chap. 7 - 3

Removing and reinstallinthe carburettor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 7 - 4

Disassembling the carburettor . . . . . . Chap. 7 - 5

Choke valves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 7 - 8

Checking the accelerating pump . . . . . Chap. 7 - 8

Checking the jet needle . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 7 - 8

Checking the float needle valve . . . . . . Chap. 7 - 8

Checking the throttle valve . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 7 - 8

Reassembling the carburettor . . . . . . . Chap. 7 - 9

Adjusting the position

of the throttle sensor . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 7 - 12

Checking the throttle sensor . . . . . . . Chap. 7 - 13

Removing and refittingthe throttle sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 7 - 13

Carburettor - Idle speed adjustment . . Chap. 7 - 14

Basic information aboutcarburettor wear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 7 - 14

Mixture adjusting screw . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 7 - 14

Checking the float level . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 7 - 14




37 - Carburettor Release 01 Date 09/2007

CARBURETTOR - KEIHIN FCR M X 39




Removing and reinstalling the carburettor

NOTE: Before starting work on the carburettor, thoroughly cleanthe vehicle.

– Remove the saddle and the fuel tank with the deflectors.

– Unscrew the throttle twist grip.

– Loosen the clamp screw on the float chamber, drain the fuelinto a suitable container, then tighten the screw again.

– Unplug the valve sensor connector. – Disconnect the sleeve. – Remove the carburettor from the frame top.

Collect the petrol in a suitable container and remove anyspills. Petrol is highly flammable and, in certain condi-tions, explosive. Keep sparks, flames and heat sources

away from the working area. Always work in a well ventilatedarea. Never use petrol as a cleaning solvent. Handle petrol on-ly if absolutely necessary. Do not use petrol to clean compo-nents that need to be blown with compressed air. Keep out of

the reach of children.

– When refitting, fit the carburettor to the sleeves and fasten itwith the two hose clamps. Ensure that the carburettor is fittedvertically in relation to the vehicle.

– Refit the throttle twist grip and check that the cables can slidefreely.

– Attach the valve sensor plug. – Fit the tank and the saddle.

– Properly arrange the carburettor breather pipes. – Start the engine and check the operation of the carburettor.

The engine speed should not change when the handlebarsare fully turned to the left or right. If the engine speedchanges, check the arrangement of the throttle cables.




Disassembling the carburettor

NOTE: The disassembly should be carried out in a clean work-place with sufficient space to properly arrange all carburettorcomponents.

– Remove the carburettor and clean it of coarse dirt.

– Loosen the two screws 1 and remove all breather pipes fromthe carburettor.

– Remove the two screws 2 and remove the throttle valve cov-er from the carburettor with the related gasket.

– Remove screw 3 and pull the jet needle out of the throttlevalve.

– Remove screw 4.

– Pull up the throttle valve lever and remove the throttle valvecomplete with roller 5 and the throttle valve plate from the car-burettor.

1 1

2 2

3

4

5



– Rotate the carburettor, loosen the three screws and removethe accelerating pump cover.

NOTE: When removing the cover, ensure that the springand the seal rings are not lost.

– Remove the two seal rings, the spring and the diaphragm from

the pump casing.

– Remove the float chamber screws and detach the float cham-ber.

– Remove float pin 1 and remove the float together with the nee-dle valve.

– Remove main jet 2.

– Loosen screw 3 and, using a pair of pliers, carefully removethe float needle valve support from the carburettor.

– Unscrew idling jet 4, starting jet 5 and nozzle 6.

– Tighten mixture adjusting screw 7 until it stops, taking note ofthe screw turns.

– Unscrew the mixture adjusting screw and remove it togetherwith the spring, washer and O-ring.

NOTE: As a rule, the spring, the washer and the O-ring remain

in the hole. These parts can be removed with a jet of com-pressed air.


1

2

7

6

3

5

4



– Remove screws 1 and throttle sensor 2.

Remove the throttle sensor only if it is defective. Thethrottle speed sensor needs to be readjusted every timescrews 1 are loosened.

– Remove screw 3 and pull the connecting piece out of the car-burettor.

– Loosen the two screws and remove the suction pump and O-ring 4 from the carburettor.

– Unscrew choke idling jet 5 and choke main jet 6.

– Clean all the jets and the other components and blow themwith compressed air.

– Clean the carburettor body and blow all the ducts inside it.

– Check the condition of all the gaskets and replace any dam-aged ones.


2

3

66

4

1



Choke valvesEnsure that choke knob piston 1 presents no deep scoring orresidues.

Checking the accelerating pumpCheck that the diaphragm is not cracked or porous.Check that the gaskets are not damaged.Ensure that holes 2 are clear.

Checking the jet needleEnsure that the jet needle is not bent or worn.

Checking the float needle valveCheck to see if the sealing surface of the needle valve presentsany dimples. There should be no dirt between the valve seatand the float needle.

Checking the throttle valveThrottle valve rollers 3 should rotate easily and have no flat ar-eas. Check that throttle valve plate 4 is not damaged.

1

2

2

3 4




Reassembling the carburettor – Fit choke idling jet 1 and choke main jet 2. – Fit O-ring 3 in the groove and fasten the suction pump to the

carburettor with the two screws.

– Insert the fuel connection into the carburettor and fasten it withscrew 4.

NOTE: When fitted, the connection should turn easily andsmoothly.

– Fit choke knob 5 and operate it a few times to make sure itslides properly. Also check if the knob engages properly.

– Fit the spring, the washer and the O-ring on mixture adjustingscrew 7 and tighten the screw until it stops.

– Unscrew the mixture adjusting screw by the number of turnsthat was taken note of during disassembly.

Original carburettor adjustment: see table in Chapter 3Specifications.

– Fit idling jet 8, starting jet 9 and the nozzle complete with main jet 10.

– Insert needle valve seat 11 in the related hole and fasten itwith screw 12.

1

3

2


4

8

7

10

9

11

12

5



– Position the float and the needle valve and fit float pin 1. – Check the float level (see page 14).

– Fit the carburettor float chamber complete with its gasket, po-sition adjusting screw support 2 and fasten the float chamberby means of screws 3.

When fitting the carburettor float chamber, ensure thataccelerating pump push rod 4 slides into the hole.

– Fit diaphragm 5 with the inscription facing upwards and thespring in the pump casing.

– Fit O-ring 6 in the groove. Fix seal ring 7 in the cover with a lit-tle grease and fasten the cover with the three screws.

– Fit the throttle sensor so that the flat area on the carburettorengages the throttle sensor slot and fasten it by means ofscrews 10.

– Pull up the throttle valve lever and insert the throttle valvealong with roller 8 and the plate in the carburettor, ensuringthat rollers 9 engage the throttle valve (see figure).

– Check the smoothness of the throttle valve.


1

2

3 4

6

5

7

10

10

89



– Apply Loctite 243 to screw 1 and tighten it. – Fit the jet needle and fasten it with screw 2.

– Position the throttle valve cover with the related gasket andfasten it with the two screws 3.

– Fasten the breather pipes with the two float chamber screws4.


2

1

33

4 4



Checking the throttle sensor

NOTE: The following measurement should be taken when thetemperature of the part is approximately 20° C.

– Unplug the throttle sensor. – Connect a multimeter (measuring range Ωx 1k) to the blue (+)

and black (–) wires of the throttle sensor.

– Now connect the multimeter to the yellow (+) and black (–)wires of the throttle sensor.

– When the throttle twist grip is rotated slowly, the resistance

should vary evenly.

Removing and refitting the throttle sensor – Unplug the throttle sensor and loosen screws 1. – Remove the throttle sensor from the carburettor.

THROTTLE SENSOR RESISTANCE: 4 – 6 kΩ


– When fitting the throttle sensor, ensure that the flat section ofthe throttle pin engages the throttle sensor slot.

– Fit the two screws without tightening them and adjust the po-sition of the throttle sensor.

1

1

Bl

Bl Gi

Bl = blue

Gi = yellow

Ne = black

Gi

Ne

Ne

THROTTLE SENSOR RESISTANCE: 0-5 kΩ ±1 kΩ(WHEN THROTTLE TWIST GRIP IS ROTATED)




Carburettor - Idle speed adjustmentThe adjustment of the idle speed strongly affects engine starting.In other words, an engine whose idle speed is properly adjustedis easier to start than an improperly tuned engine. The idle speedis adjusted by means of adjusting roller 1 and mixture adjustingscrew 2. The adjusting roller is used to alter the basic position ofthe throttle valve; the mixture adjusting screw is used to adjust the

idle speed mixture, which comes to the engine through the idlespeed system. Turning the screw clockwise decreases the quan-tity of fuel (lean mixture); turning it anticlockwise increases thequantity of fuel (rich mixture).

TO PROPERLY ADJUST THE IDLE SPEED, FOLLOW THESE

STEPS:1 Screw in mixture adjusting screw 2 until it stops and then screw

it out until the basic adjustment specified by Betamotor is ob-tained (see Chapter 3 Tightening torques - Specifications - Rec-ommended products).

2 Warm up the engine.3 Using adjusting roller 1, adjust the standard idle speed (1400 -

1500 rpm).4 Slowly turn mixture adjusting screw 2 clockwise until the idle

speed begins to lower. Memorize this position and then slowlyturn the mixture adjusting screw anticlockwise until the idlespeed begins to lower again. Choose the point between the twosettings where the idle speed is highest. Should the enginespeed increase excessively, decrease the speed to the stan-dard level and go through step 4 again. Anybody using the ve-hicle intensively for sporting purposes should choose a leanermixture by approximately 1/4 of a turn (clockwise) relative to thisideal value. This is because, in these conditions, the engineheats more than in standard use.NOTE: If the above procedure should prove unsuccessful, theproblem may be due to an idling jet of unsuitable size.

a) If the mixture adjusting screw is turned until it stops and the idlespeed does not change, a smaller idling jet is needed.

b) If the engine stalls while the mixture adjusting screws is stillopen by two turns, a larger idling jet is required.It goes without saying that, after replacing the jet, the adjust-ment will have to be restarted from the beginning.

5 Turn the adjusting roller until the desired engine speed is ob-tained.

6 The idle speed will have to be readjusted in case of markedchanges in the outside temperature and the riding altitude.

Basic information about carburettor wearThe throttle valve, the jet needle and the nozzle are subject toheavy wear and tear caused by engine vibration. This may resultin carburettor malfunctions (e.g. enrichment of the mixture). Theabove-mentioned parts should consequently be replaced after200 hours.

Mixture adjusting screwThe mixture adjusting screw is difficult to reach. For this reason aspecial tool is provided to facilitate the task. Place the special toolon mixture adjusting screw 2 on the lower side of the carburettor.Slightly press the tool upwards and turn adjusting roller 3 until thetool snaps into the slot of the mixture adjusting screw. Now it ispossible to perform the adjustment. The roller has referencemarks for the turns.

Checking the float levelRemove the carburettor and the float chamber. Tilt the carburettorso that the float rests on the float needle valve without crushing it.In this position the float edge should be parallel with the sealingsurface of the carburettor float chamber (see figure). If the float

level differs from the nominal value, check the float needle valveand if necessary replace it. If the needle valve is in working order,the float level can be adjusted by bending float lever 4. Fit the car-burettor float chamber and the carburettor and then adjust the idlespeed.

1

2

3

//

4



Pag. 1

FRONT SUSPENSION / WHEEL 8



CONTENTS

Fork components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 8 - 4

Taking down the wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 8 - 5

Checking the head tube seats . . . . . . . Chap. 8 - 6

Cleaning the wiper seal . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 8 - 7Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 8 - 7Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 8 - 7

Air bleed screw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 8 - 7Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 8 - 7Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 8 - 7

Draining the oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 8 - 8

Removing the pump assemblyand the foot valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 8 - 9

Separating leg from the leg holderand removing the seal rings . . . . . Chap. 8 - 10

Overhauling and changing the adjustmentof the cartridge and the foot valve Chap. 8 - 11

Overhauling the cartridge(rebound damping) . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 8 - 11Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 8 - 11

Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 8 - 12

Overhauling the foot valve(compression damping) . . . . . . . . Chap. 8 - 12

Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 8 - 12

Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 8 - 13

Reassembling the fork leg and the sheath -Fitting the seal rings . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 8 - 13

Reassembling the pump assemblyand the foot valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 8 - 15

Adding oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 8 - 16

Reinstalling the fork on the vehicle . . Chap. 8 - 17

Removing the fork from the vehicle . . Chap. 8 - 18




38 - Front suspension / wheel Release 01 Date 09/2007




9 12 33

48 39 24 30 31 72 513

33 70 41 71

34 3610 37

19 21 25 73 83228

43 45 46

Fork components

5) Supporting tube

8) Lower sliding bush

9) Cup

10) Seal ring

12) Wiper seal

13) Outer leg holder

19) Compression adjusting screw

21) Spring24) Spring guide

25) Preload tube

28) Foot pad

30) Cartridge case

31) Inside rod

32) Pump rod

33) Fin pull-off spring

34) Rebound piston fin

36) Pump piston

37) Rebound damping piston reeds

39) Upper sliding bush41) Foot valve

43) Compression valve fin

45) Foot valve piston

46) Compression damping valve

reeds

48) Cap

70) Wheel holder

71) Rebound adjusting screw

72) Jet needle

73) Case cover



Taking down the wheel

NOTE: Place the vehicle on a specially designed central standand keep the front wheel off the ground. – Remove wheel holder cap 1. – Loosen the two screws 2 on the left-hand fork foot.

– Remove the two screws 3 from the right-hand fork foot. – Pull out the fork pin on the right side. – Remove the wheel assembly.

– If the disc is replaced, refer to the table of tightening torquesin Chapter 3 Tightening torques - Specifications - Recom- mended products .

– Remove the leg protections, the front mudguard and the mud-guard grille (see Chapter 5 Bodywork and fittings ).

Unscrew the two screws 1, disconnect the caliper assembly, re-move the pipe from the fork and disconnect the speed sensorcable.

Unscrew the four screws on the left side and the four screws onthe right side and then remove the fork from the brackets.


1

2

3

1



If necessary, follow these steps to overhaul the steering seats: – Unscrew the four screws as shown in the figure and remove

the handlebars.

– Unscrew screws 1 and 2 and remove the two brackets fromthe head tube.

Checking the head tube seatsCheck the seats for wear. If necessary, remove them using asuitable drift. – For each seat, use a drift and a hammer to alternately hit the

grooves in the head tube to the left and right of the seat. – Use the drift from above to remove the lower seat. – Use the drift from below to remove the upper seat.


1

2




13

12

6

Cleaning the wiper seal

NOTE: This operation can be performed with the fork installedon the vehicle.

Removal – Before performing this operation, thoroughly clean leg 6.

– Using a small screwdriver, pry dust scraper 12 off sheath 13taking care not to score the fork leg.

– Push down the wiper seal along the leg and, using a jet ofcompressed air, clean the wiper seal inside and its seat on thesheath.

Do not on any account use metal tools to remove dirt par-ticles.

– Make the legs complete a short travel and remove any dirtfrom the supporting tubes.

– Lubricate the wiper seal and the visible surface of the seal ring

with silicone grease.

Installation- Manually press wiper seal 12 back into its seat.

12

5014

Air bleed screw

NOTE: This operation is to be performed with the fork installedon the vehicle and the fork legs fully extended (front wheel offthe ground). Owing to the particular shape of the seal rings, airgetting into the fork legs during use may remain trapped andcause fork malfunctions.

Removal – Using a cross-tip screwdriver, unscrew air bleed screw 14 on

each fork leg, in the upper part of the leg holder, to release thepressure that may have built up inside. Perform this operationon a monthly basis in case of standard road use, or after each

competition. – Check the condition of seal ring 50 and if necessary replaceit.

Installation- Tighten air bleed screw 14 to the prescribed torque (see table

in Cap. 3 Tightening torques - Specifications - Recommended products ), taking care not to damage seal ring 50.




48

Draining the oil

NOTE: This operation cannot be performed while the fork is in-stalled on the vehicle.

NOTE: It is advisable to slightly loosen the plug before remov-ing the fork leg from the steering plates.

– Remove the fork leg from the steering plates as directed bythe manufacturer.

– Clamp the fork leg in a vice. – Using a 19-mm spanner, completely unscrew plug 48. – Slowly lower the sheath along the fork leg.

48

23

20

21

– Push down spring guide cup 20 and spring 21 to allow a 19-mm spanner to be inserted in counternut 23.

– While holding counternut 23 in position with the 19-mm span-

ner, use another 19-mm spanner to completely unscrew plug48.

48

3120

21

3225

– Remove plug 48, spring guide cup 20, spring 21 and preloadtube 25.

– Remove adjuster inside transmission rod 32 from the end ofrod 31.

– Release fork leg 5 from the vice and turn it upside down overa suitable container to collect the oil it contains. Pump a fewtimes to facilitate the outflow.

NOTE: The appearance, density and quality of the spent oil is aclue to the condition of the seals and guides. If the oil is denseand dark and contains solid particles, replace the guide bushesand the seals.

5




41

Removing the pump assembly and the foot valve

Perform this operation only after completely draining theoil from the fork leg.

– Clamp the wheel holding foot of the fork leg in a vice. – Stop the rotation of the case by accurately inserting the hexa-

gon on the case into the slotted hole at the lower end of thetool.

In the upper part of the tool there are two diametricallyopposite holes where a pin can be inserted to facilitate itslocking. However, the tool must on no account be turned

but should only be used to hold the fork leg inside componentsin place.

– Using the 21-mm socket wrench, unscrew foot valve 41.

– Remove foot valve assembly 41. – Remove shock absorber assembly 21 from fork leg 5.

21

5

23

24

– Unscrew and remove counternut 23 and remove spring guide24.

– To be able to work on the pump, it is first necessary to removethe components of the stop pad. Hold foot pad nut 26 with an18-mm spanner and unscrew tip 29 with a 17-mm hexagonalspanner.

– Remove upper nut 26 and foot pad 28.

– Using a small screwdriver, pry retaining ring 27 off the rod.

– Remove retaining ring 27 and tip 29 from the rod.

26

27

28

29




30

32

– Push rod 32 towards the inside of case 30 to allow the pumpassembly to be removed from below.

NOTE: The pump can be completely overhauled and adjusted.

– Check ring 35 for wear.

35

12

Separating the fork leg from the leg holder and removing theseal rings

– Using a small flat blade screwdriver, remove wiper seal 12.

– Using the same screwdriver, remove metal retaining ring 11.

11




13

6

9

10

8

– Remove fork leg 6 from sheath 13. Pull hard to obtain the sep-aration. This operation will remove from the sheath seal ring10, cup 9 and lower guide bush 8.

– Manually remove upper guide bush 39. If the bush is difficultto remove by hand, the operation can be facilitated by insert-ing a flat blade screwdriver in the bush slot.

– Remove lower guide bush 8, cup 9, seal ring 10, retaining ring

11 and dust scraper 12 from the fork leg.

Do not reuse the removed seal rings and wiper seals.

39

8

10

11

9

12

32

38

Overhauling and changing the adjustment of the cartridgeand the foot valve

Overhauling the cartridge (rebound damping)

Removal – Clamp the milled portion of rod 32 in a vice. – Depending on the type of nut used, unscrew nut 38 with a 12-

mm or a 13-mm spanner. – Remove in succession nut 38, rebound adjusting reed or

reeds 37, piston 36 complete with ring 35, fin 34 and spring33.

3533

34

36

37

38




Installation

NOTE: Fins 37 and piston 36 determine the rebound dampingaction. If necessary, the behaviour of the fork during the reboundphase can be altered by replacing fins 37 and piston 36 with oth-er parts having different characteristics.

Only use genuine Betamotor fins and pistons. Do notmodify the components.

– If necessary replace piston ring 35. – Fit in succession spring 33, fin 34, piston 36 complete with

ring 35, rebound adjusting fin or fins 37 in the rod end.

The piston should be oriented so that the smaller holesface adjusting fins 37.

– Manually screw in nut 38.

– Clamp the milled part of damping rod 32 in a vice. – Using a suitable spanner (12-mm or 13-mm based on the nutused), tighten nut 38 to the prescribed torque (see table inChapter 3 Tightening torques - Specifications - Recommend- ed products ).

35

37

36

34

33

32

38

42

47

Overhauling the foot valve (compression damping)

Removal – Clamp in a vice the foot screw through spanner slot 47. – Unscrew nut 42 with a 13-mm spanner. – Remove in succession nut 42, spring 33, fin 43, piston 45

complete with O-ring 44, compression adjusting reed or reeds46.

42

33

43

45

46

44




33

45

46

4344

Installation

NOTE: Fins 46 and piston 45 determine the compression damp-ing. If necessary, the behaviour of the fork during the compres-sion phase can be altered by replacing fins 46 and piston 45with other parts having different characteristics.

Only use genuine Betamotor fins and pistons. Do notmodify the components.

– If necessary replace piston O-ring 44. – Insert in succession compression fin or fin stack 46, piston 45

complete with O-ring 44, fin 43 and spring 33 in the foot valve.

The piston should be oriented so that the smaller holesface adjusting fins 45.

– Manually screw in nut 42.

– Clamp in a vice the foot screw through spanner slot 47. – Using a 13-mm spanner, tighten nut 42 to the prescribedtorque (see table in Chapter 3 Tightening torques - Specifica- tions - Recommended products ).

42

47

Reassembling the fork leg and the sheath - Fitting the sealrings

Never reuse any removed seal rings and wiper seals. Be-fore reassembly, check the condition of the guide bush-es. If they are scored or scratched, replace them. Ensure

that the Teflon lining of the guide bushes is intact.

– Cover the seat of the upper bush by applying adhesive tape tothe end of the fork leg.

– Apply a thin film of grease to the wiper seal and the seal ring. – Insert the following parts in succession into the fork leg: wiper

seal 12, retaining ring 11, seal ring 10, cup 9 and lower guidebush 8.

Pay attention to the orientation of seal ring 10: fit it so thatits hollow side faces cup 9.

8

9

10

11

12




39

– Remove the adhesive tape from the end of the fork leg, clean-ing it of any traces of adhesive.

– Manually insert upper guide bush 39.

NOTE: If the guide bush is difficult to insert by hand, the opera-tion can be facilitated by inserting a flat blade screwdriver in thebush slot.

– Gently insert the fork leg into the sheath, taking care to ensurethat the upper guide bush does not receive damage.

– Move the lower guide bush until it comes into contact with thesheath, the cup and the seal ring.

– Fit the specially designed inserter on fork leg 5 and use it topush seal ring 10 until the lower guide bush, the cup and theseal ring are properly seated.

10

5

11

– Using a small flat blade screwdriver, fit retaining ring 11, en-suring that it is perfectly seated in the groove and taking carenot to score the fork leg.

12

– Fit wiper seal 12 by pressing it by hand.




30

32

Reassembling the pump assembly and the foot valve

– Insert pump rod 32 into case 30.

Each pump contains a seal ring. Before reassembly,check that the seal rings are not worn or damaged and ifnecessary replace them. Be very careful and if necessary

use a small flat blade screwdriver to facilitate the insertion of thepump piston into the tube-case. The piston should go unimped-ed.

– Insert stop pad tip 29 into rod 32 so that the side with thespanner slot faces case 30 and the tip goes past wire grooveF.

– Fit wire 27 into groove F.

– Bring tip 29 into contact with the retaining ring.

– Insert foot pad 28 so that slotted holes for the passage of oil

face the tip.

– Insert upper nut 26 and screw it on tip 29.

26

32

28

27F

29

26

29

– Holding nut 26 with an 18-mm spanner, tighten tip 29 to theprescribed torque (see table in Chapter 3 Tightening torques - Specifications - Recommended products ) using a 17-mmspanner.

– Fit spring guide 24 on pump rod 32 so that smaller side of theguide faces the foot pad.

– Fully screw in counternut 23 without tightening.

23

24

32




23

5

– Push preassembled pump 23 until it comes into contact withfork leg 5.

– Manually screw in the foot valve.

– Stop the rotation of the case by carefully inserting the hexa-gon on the case into the slotted hole at the lower end of the

tool.

In the upper part of the tool there are two diametrically op-posite holes where a pin can be inserted to facilitate itslocking. However, the tool must on no account be turned

but should only be used to hold the fork leg inside componentsin place.

– Using a 21-mm socket wrench, tighten foot valve 41 to theprescribed torque (see table in Chapter 3 Tightening torques - Specifications - Recommended products ).

41

h

13

Adding oil

– Push the sheath all the way up along the fork leg. – Prepare the oil to be poured into the fork leg in a measuring

cup (see table in Chapter 3 Tightening torques - Specifications - Recommended products ).

– Pour approximately 2/3 of the oil into sheath 13, then pump afew times to remove the air.

– Pour in the rest of the oil. – Lower the leg holder on the fork leg until the wiper seal comes

into contact with the wheel holding foot. – Wait a few minutes and then measure the volume of the air

(see table in Chapter 3 Tightening torques - Specifications -

Recommended products ) and if necessary restore the level.

NOTE: A smaller or greater volume of air, or the use of unsuit-able oil, can completely change the behaviour the fork.

– Push sheath 13 up fork leg 5. – Insert adjuster inside transmission rod 31. – Insert preload tube 21, spring 25 and spring guide cup 20. – Fully tighten plug 48.

31

48

20

25

21




48

23

R

– Open the adjuster by completely unscrewing adjusting screwR.

– Using two 19-mm spanners, tighten counternut 23 on plug 48to the prescribed torque (see table in Chapter 3 Tightening torques - Specifications - Recommended products ).

– Push up the sheath along the fork leg.

– Using the 19-mm spanner, screw plug 48 on the leg holder tothe prescribed torque (see table in Chapter 3 Tightening torques - Specifications - Recommended products ).

– Restore the proper adjustment by turning adjusting screw R(see table in Chapter 3 Tightening torques - Specifications - Recommended products ).

48

Reinstalling the fork on the vehicle

Follow the reverse procedure to the removal, observing thetightening torques specified in the table in Chapter 3 Tightening torques - Specifications - Recommended products .

To ensure proper operation of the fork, fit the wheel on the forkby following these steps: – Insert the pin through the right-hand wheel holder, the wheel

and the left-hand wheel holder. – Screw tight the pin nut on the left side. – Push the fork legs completely and then release them a few

times.

– Tighten the two screws on the right-hand wheel holder in thesequence 1-2-1.



Pag. 1

REAR SUSPENSION / WHEEL 9



CONTENTS

Removing the chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 9 - 4

Taking down the rear wheel . . . . . . . . . Chap. 9 - 4

Removing the rear sprocket . . . . . . . . . Chap. 9 - 4

Removing the rear brake disc . . . . . . . Chap. 9 - 4

Removing the swingarm . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 9 - 5

Removing the shock absorber . . . . . . . Chap. 9 - 5




Before attempting to remove the rear suspension, placethe vehicle on a central stand with the rear wheel off theground.

39 - Rear suspension / wheel Release 01 Date 09/2007



Removing the chainFind the split link and position it on the rear sprocket. Removethe link with a pair of pliers and undo the chain.

When refitting, it is important that the link should be fittedin the opposite direction to the rotation of the chain (seefigure).

Taking down the rear wheelLoosen the chain stretchers on the left and right sides.Unscrew wheel spindle nut 1.Pull out the wheel spindle from the left side and take down thewheel assembly..

Removing the rear sprocketUnscrew the six screws and remove the rear sprocket from thewheel hub.WARNING

Important! Follow these steps to properly tighten the rearsprocket: – Apply medium-resistance threadlocking Loctite to the

screw threads. – Using a torque spanner, tighten the six sprocket locknuts to25-30 N·m.

– Check the tightening by turning the six inside nuts with ahexagonal long-arm CH13 spanner (400-500 mm).

All the nuts should be securely locked.

Removing the rear brake discIf necessary unscrew the four screws 1 and remove the brakedisc.- When refitting the disc, check the tightening torques against

those specified in the table in Chapter 3 Tightening torques - Specifications - Recommended products .


1

1



Verificare che l’errore massimo di planarità sui 360° non sia su-periore a 0,04 mm.When refitting the parts, tighten them to the prescribed torques(see Chapter 3 Tightening torques - Specifications - Recom- mended products ).

Removing the swingarmDisengage the swingarm from the rear brake line and from thecaliper with its support bracket.

Unscrew the swingarm/frame pin and the swingarm/linkage pin.Remove the swingarm..

Removing the shock absorber – Unscrew pins 1 and 2 and unfasten the rear suspension link-

age.

– Remove the upper shock absorber fastener.

59 - Rear suspension / wheel Release 01 Date 09/2007

2

1

2

1



Pag. 1

BRAKING SYSTEM 10



CONTENTS

Front brake pumpOverhauling the front brake pump . Chap. 10 - 4

Replacing the front brake pads . . . . . . Chap. 10 - 5

Replacing the front brakecaliper pistons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 10 - 5

Replacing the rear brake pump . . . . . . . Chap. 10 - 6

Replacing the rear brake pads . . . . . . . Chap. 10 - 7

Replacing the caliper pistons . . . . . . . Chap. 10 - 7




Special attention should be given to the braking system. Nospecial maintenance is required, but frequent checks andthorough inspections are necessary, especially if the vehi-cle is used in competitions.

Visually check all the components and in particular thepump, the pipes and the caliper. Ensure that there are noleakages and that all the components are in good condi-tion.

310 - Braking system Release 01 Date 09/2007



Front brake pumpOverhauling the front brake pump – Empty the system. – Unscrew front brake lever screw 1.

The replacement can only be performed after emptying

the system.

Avoid disposing of the fluid in the environment. Disposein accordance with the law.

– Remove the pump and replace it with a new spare kit.

Subsequently replenish and bleed the system (see Chap-ter 4 Maintenance ). Only use DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 oil.


1




Replacing the front brake pads

To replace the brake pads, follow these steps:

– Push the brake caliper towards the disc so that the pistonscan reach their base position.

– Loosen grub screw A.

– Pull out pin B while supporting the two brake pads as shownin the figure.

– Remove the pads taking care not to drop the leaf spring lo-cated underneath.

– To refit the parts, follow the reverse procedure. When fittingthe brake pads, ensure that the leaf spring is properly posi-tioned.

WARNING: Always keep the brake disc free from oil andgrease as these substances greatly reduce the brakingaction.

Every time the braking system is serviced, operate the brakelever to bring the pads into contact with the disc, restore the cor-

rect pressure point and ensure proper operation of the brakingsystem.

Replacing the front brake caliper pistons

Loosen the two screws C and remove the brake caliper. Re-peatedly pull the brake lever. In these conditions, without thebrake pads in place, the pistons will come out of their seats, al-lowing the pistons and the related oil seals to be removed. Re-place the parts with those contained in the spare kit.


A

B

C




Replacing the rear brake pump

The replacement can only be performed after emptyingthe system.

Avoid disposing of the fluid in the environment. Disposein accordance with the law.

– Remove right-hand guard 1 (if present). – Unscrew nut 2 to disengage the brake lever pump. – Remove the pump from below and replace it with a new one

from the spare kit.

Subsequently replenish and bleed the system (see Chap-ter 4 Maintenance). Only use DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 oil.

1

2



WARNING: Always keep the brake disc free from oil andgrease as these substances greatly reduce the brakingaction.

Every time the braking system is serviced, operate the brakelever to bring the pads into contact with the disc, restore the cor-rect pressure point and ensure proper operation of the brakingsystem.


Replacing the rear brake pads

To replace the brake pads, follow these steps:

– Push the brake caliper towards the disc so that the pistonscan reach their base position.

– Loosen grub screw A.

– Pull out pin B while supporting the two pads (see figure). – Remove the pads taking care not to drop the leaf spring above

them. – To refit the parts, follow the reverse procedure. When fitting

the brake pads, ensure that the leaf spring is properly posi-tioned.

Replacing the caliper pistons

After removing the caliper and the brake pads, repeatedly actu-ate the brake lever until the piston comes out of its seat, then re-move the piston and the oil seal and replace them with newparts from a spare kit.


A

B



Pag. 1

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 11




1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0

1 1

1 2

1 3

1 4

1 5

1 6

1 7

1 8

1 9

2 0

2 1

2 2

2 3

2 4

2 5

2 6

2 7

2 8

2 9

3 0

3 1

3 2

3 3

3 4

3 5

3 6

3 7

3 8



311 - Electrical system Release 01 Date 09/2007

WIRING DIAGRAM Euro 3

1) RIGHT-HAND FRONT TURN INDICATOR (12V-10W BULB)

2) FRONT BRAKE LIGHT BUTTON

3) START BUTTON4) WHEEL REVOLUTION SENSOR

5) SCROLL BUTTON

6) TELL TALE LAMP (NO CONECT)

7) HEADLIGHT TELL TALE LAMP

8) TRAFFICATOR LIGHTS TELL TALE LAMP

9) DISPLAY

10) ENGINE STOP BUTTON

11) HORN BUTTON

12) HEADLIGHT SELECTOR13) TURN SIGNAL LAMPS SWITCH

14) L.H. SWITCH

15) LH FRONT TURN SIGNAL (BULB 12V-10W)

16) UNIT TURN SIGNAL LAMPS

17) REGULATOR 12V

18) ELECTRIC FAN KIT (option)

19) LEFT-HAND REAR TURN INDICATOR (12V-10W BULB)

20) NUMBER-PLATE LIGHT (12V-5W BULB)

21) REAR LIGHT (12V-5/21W BULB)

22) RIGHT-HAND REAR TURN INDICATOR (12V-10W BULB)

23) BATTERY POSITIVE TERMINAL

24) BATTERY 12V-5Ah

25) GENERATOR

26) 10A FUSE

27) EARTH BRAID

28) STARTER RELAY

29) STARTER MOTOR

30) BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL

31) ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT

32) SPARK.PLUG

33) AT COIL

34) REAR BRAKE LIGHT BUTTON

35) FRAME EARTH

36) PARKING LIGHT BULB, 12V-3W

37) HEADLIGHT WITH 12V-25/25W

38) 12V HORN

Key to coloursBi = WhiteVe = GreenMa= BrownVi = Purple

Bl = Blue

Ne = BlackGi = YellowRs = RedAr = Orange

Az = Sky-blue

Ro = PinkGr = Grey




WIRING DIAGRAM RR4T USA

1) WHEEL SENSOR

2) STARTING BUTTON

3) PUSHBUTTON SCROLL

4) NO CONNECT TELL TALE LAMP



7) DISPLAY

8) ENGINE STOP BUTTON

9) LIGHTS SWICH

10) CONTROL GROUP

11) REGULATOR

12) ELECTROVALVE KIT (OPTIONAL)

13) TAIL LAMP (LED)14) FUSE 10 A

15) EARTH BRAID

16) POSITIVE BATTERY

17) STARTER RELAY

18) STARTER MOTOR

19) NEGATIVE BATTERY

20) BATTERY 12V-4AH

21) PICK-UP

22) ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT23) AT COIL

24) SPARK PLUG

25) EARTH CONNECTION FRAME

26) POSITION LAMP 12V-5W

27) HEADLAMP 12V-35/35W

KEY TO COLOURS

BI = WHITE

VE = GREEN

MA = BROWN

VI = PURPLE

BL = BLUE

NE = BLACK

GI = YELLOW

RS = RED

AR = ORANGE

AZ = SKY-BLUE

RO = PINK

GR = GREY




WIRING DIAGRAM RS4T USA

1) RIGHT-HAND FRONT TURN INDICATOR (12V-10W BULB)2) FRONT BRAKE LIGHT BUTTON3) START BUTTON

4) WHEEL REVOLUTION SENSOR5) HIGH BEAM WARNING LIGHT6) TURN INDICATOR WARNING LIGHT7) DISPLAY8) LOW BEAM WARNING LIGHT9) NOT CONNECTED10) MODE BUTTON11) ENGINE STOP BUTTON12) HORN BUTTON13) LIGHTS SELECTOR SWITCH14) TURN INDICATOR SWITCH

15) LEFT-HAND CONTROL SET16) LEFT-HAND FRONT TURN INDICATOR (12V-10W BULB)17) FLASHER UNIT18) 12V REGULATOR19) LEFT-HAND REAR TURN INDICATOR (12V-10W BULB)20) NUMBER-PLATE LIGHT (12V-5W BULB)21) REAR LIGHT (12V-5/21W BULB)22) RIGHT-HAND REAR TURN INDICATOR (12V-10W BULB)23) BATTERY POSITIVE TERMINAL24) BATTERY 12V-4AH25) GENERATOR26) 10A FUSE27) EARTH BRAID28) STARTER RELAY29) STARTER MOTOR30) BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL31) REAR STOP LAMP RELAY32) ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT33) HV COIL34) SPARK PLUG35) CONDENSER

36) REAR BRAKE LIGHT BUTTON37) FRAME EARTH38) PARKING LIGHT BULB 12V-3W39) HEADLIGHT WITH 12V-25/25W40) 12V HORN

KEY TO COLOURS

BI = WHITEVE = GREEN

MA = BROWNVI = PURPLEBL = BLUE

NE = BLACKGI = YELLOWRS = REDAR = ORANGEAZ = SKY-BLUE

RO = PINKGR = GREY



CONTENTS

Checking for leakage currents . . . . . . Chap. 11 - 5

Removing and reinstalling the battery Chap. 11 - 5

Charging the battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 11 - 5

Filling the battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 11 - 6

Checking the voltage regulators . . . . . Chap. 11 - 7

Checking the charging voltage . . . . . . Chap. 11 - 7

CDI unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 11 - 8

Checking the ignition coil . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 11 - 8

Troubleshooting the ignition system . Chap. 11 - 8

Main fuse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 11 - 9

Checking the starting relay . . . . . . . . . Chap. 11 - 9

Checking the starter motor . . . . . . . . Chap. 11 - 10

Instrument panel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chap. 11 - 10




Checking for leakage currentsCheck for leakage currents before inspecting the regulator-rec-tifier. – Disconnect the ignition and remove the earth cable from the

battery. – Connect and ampere meter between the earth cable and the

negative terminal of the battery.

Nominal value: max. 1 mA

– If the actual value exceeds the nominal value, proceed tocheck the various users.

Possible malfunctions include:• A faulty regulator-rectifier.• A faulty capacitor.• Leakage currents in the connectors, the ignition switch or the

starting relay.

0,00

Removing and reinstalling the battery – Remove the saddle. – Disconnect the negative terminal first and then the positive

terminal from the battery. – Release elastic band 1 and remove the battery from the bat-

tery holder. – When reinstalling the battery, first connect the positive termi-

nal and then the negative terminal.WARNING: TO PREVENT POSSIBLE LEAKAGE OF ACID, BESURE TO POSITION THE BATTERY TERMINALS AT THEFRONT.

Charging the battery – Remove the battery and measure its charge. Use a voltmeter

to measure the voltage between the battery terminals (voltageat rest). Maximum tolerance of measuring instrument: 1 percent.

– To obtain a correct measurement, do not charge or dischargethe battery for at least 30 minutes before performing the ope-

ration. – If the battery charge cannot be determined, the battery can be

charged for a maximum of 10 hours with 0.5 amperes and amaximum of 14.4 volts.

IMPORTANT: – NEVER REMOVE THE BATTERY PLUGS. – TO RECHARGE THE BATTERY, FIRST CONNECT THE

BATTERY TO THE CHARGER AND THEN TURN ON THECHARGER.

– IF THE BATTERY IS CHARGED INDOORS, TAKE CARE TOENSURE PROPER VENTILATION. DURING THE CHARGETHE BATTERY PRODUCES EXPLOSIVE GASES.

– IF THE BATTERY IS OVERCHARGED, OR IF THE CHAR-GING VOLTAGE IS EXCESSIVE, THERE MAY BE AN OUT-FLOW OF ELECTROLYTE THROUGH THE SAFETY VAL-VES, WHICH WOULD CAUSE THE BATTERY TO LOSEPART OF ITS CAPACITY.

Tensione di riposo Stato di carica Durata di carica Tensione diVolt % a 0,5 A carica

>12,7 100 ––

~12,5 75 4 h

~12,2 50 7 h Max.

~12,0 25 11 h 14,4 V

~11,8 0 14 h

<11,5 0 20 h


1

Voltage at rest

Volts

Battery cahrge

%

Charge duration

at 0,5 A

Charge voltage



Filling the battery – Remove the battery and the electrolyte container from the

package.Before starting to fill the battery, read through the enclosed in-struction slip.

– Open the electrolyte container. – Insert the electrolyte container in the battery filler openings

and push it down hard. – When all container compartments are empty, remove the con-

tainer from the battery.

– Carefully close the filler openings with the cover.

NOTE: After filling the battery, allow it to rest for at least half anhour without charging it.

IMPORTANT: WHEN FILLING A NEW BATTERY, BE SURE TOFOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS PROVIDED IN THE ENCLOSED

INSTRUCTION SLIP, WHICH ALSO PROVIDES THE SAFETYRULES TO BE FOLLOWED. FAILURE TO OBSERVE THESERULES MAY LEAD TO SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY.




Checking the voltage regulatorsIf a regulator is suspected of being defective, it should be repla-ced, if possible, with one that is known to be in working order.Alternatively, take a few measurements to determine whether itis operating properly: – While the engine is off, disconnect the regulator connector lo-

cated on the frame under the tank.

– Use a digital multimeter designed for measurements of up to20,000 Ω.

Checking the charging voltage

NOTE: The following values should be regarded as valid only

when the battery is charged (minimum charge 90 per cent). – Start the engine and turn on the low beam. – Connect a voltmeter to the two battery connections. – Rev the engine to 5000 rpm and read the voltage.

Nominal value: 14.0 - 15.0 V

If the measured value differs considerably from the nominal va-lue, follow these step: – Check the plug between the stator and the regulator-rectifier

and the plug between the regulator-rectifier and the wiringharness.

– Check the stator. – Replace the regulator-rectifier.

1 2 3 4

1

2

3

4

/ ∞ ∞ ∞

/

/

/

∞ ∞

∞

∞

∞

∞

∞

∞ ∞

Puntale ROSSO

P u n t a l e N E R O

∞ = Corrisponte all’indicazione che fornisceil tester quando i terminali ROSSO e NERO nonsono in contatto tra di loro.

1 Red

2 Yellow3 Black4 White

1 2

34


RED probe

B L A C K

p r o b e

∞ = Corresponds to the multimeter reading whenthe RED and BLACK terminals are not in contactwith one another.



CDI unitCheck the wires and connectors of the CDI unit.The operation of the CDI unit can only be checked on a speciallydesigned test bench for ignitions.

IMPORTANT: NEVER CHECK THE CDI UNIT WITH STAN-DARD MEASURING EQUIPMENT AS THIS COULD IRREPA-

RABLY DAMAGE HIGHLY SENSITIVE ELECTRONIC COMPO-NENTS.

It is also possible to replace the control unit with one that isknown to be in working order to determine whether it is opera-ting properly.

Checking the ignition coil – Disconnect all the cables and unplug the spark plug. – Using an ohmmeter, take the following measurements:

NOTE: The following measurements correspond to the nominalvalues only at a temperature of 20° C.If the measured values differ considerably from the nominal va-lue, replace the ignition coil.

1 2 3

1

2

3

6150

/

/

Puntale ROSSO

P u n t a l e N E R O

Tolleranza ± 10%

Tester per misure fino a 20.000 Ω

/ 0,8

6150

6150 6150

0,8

1

2

3

Troubleshooting the ignition systemBefore checking the ignition system, verify the following:

• Emergency switch in on position.

• Battery charge.

• Main fuse.

Check if a spark is produced when the engine is started by fol-

lowing these steps:

– Remove the spark plug cap.

– Separate the spark plug cap from the ignition cable.

– Keep the free end of the ignition cable about 5 mm for an

earth connection.

– When the starter motor is operated, a bright electrical spark

should be produced. If the battery charge is very low, use thekickstart.

– If a spark is produced, refit the spark plug cap.

– Unscrew the spark plug and insert it into the spark plug cap.

– Keep the spark plug connected to earth. When the electric

start is operated, a bright spark should be produced at the

electrode. If that is not the case, either the spark plug cap or

the spark plug is defective.

– If a spark is not produced at the first attempt, check the igni-

tion switch and the wiring harness components.

– If the ignition system is correctly powered but no spark is pro-

duced, check the following:

• Earth connection of the CDI unit and the ignition coil.

• Wire connecting the CDI unit to the ignition coil.• Stator.

• Ignition coil.


RED probe

B L A C K

p r o b e

Tolerance ± 10 %

Tester for measurements up to 20.000 Ω



Main fuseFuse 3 is installed in starting relay 4 under right-hand side pa-nel 5.To gain access to the fuse, remove the saddle and lift swingingsupport 6 to expose the battery.

The fuse protects the following users:

– Electric start system. – Horn. – Indicators. – Instrument panel.

The starting relay also contains spare fuse 7 (10 A).A blown fuse should only be replaced with another of the sametype.Should the new fuse also burn out when fitted, proceed to checkthe electrical system.The fuse has a capacity of 10 amperes.

WARNING:Do not on any account fit a fuse of greater power or attempt to“fix” the damaged fuse. Unsuitable servicing could cause dama-ge to the entire electrical system.

Checking the starting relay – Disconnect the starting relay multiple plug. – Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery and the two

wires from the starting relay.

C

D

– Connect the starting relay to a 12 V battery. – Using an ohmmeter, check continuity between terminals C

and D.

Note: 0 Ω in working order

Note: ∞ Ω defective

NOTE: A slight click can be heard when the starting relay trips.


3

6

4

7

5



Checking the starter motor – Disconnect the battery negative terminal and remove the star-

ter motor. – Connect the negative terminal of a 12 V battery to the starter

motor casing and momentarily connect the battery positiveterminal with starter motor connector 3 (use thick cables).

– When the electrical circuit is closed, the starter motor should

begin to turn. – If that is not the case, replace the starter motor.

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