workbench

www.BobsPlans.com

The Best Workbench in Town

We all have limited space in our shops. This workbench is designed to provide the maximum function-ality using the minimum amount of space possible. It provides a work surface of about six feet by two feet and is about 35” in height. Just the right size to provide ample work space for most projects.

The features that make this workbench ideal for the home shop are the built in clamping system, the built in router table, the nine drawers, the center cabinet space, and the mobility. The four inch casters enable you to easily roll it into position when needed and roll it aside when it is not in use.

The top surface is made of two layers of 3/4” MDF. This provides an extremely flat work surface and since it is also a router table, a flat work surface is a must. The T-track inlaid in the top and around the edges makes the entire work surface a versatile clamping system that easily clamps very small or very large work pieces.

Copyright © 2006 by Robert E. ReedyAll Rights Reserved

This document may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the author.

Revision: 12/19/2007

http://www.bobsplans.com

Table of Contents

Part 1 - Dimensions Drawings

Materials List ............................................................................................................xMaterials List ............................................................................................................xEnd and Center Panels ............................................................................................. 1Base Dimensions & Layout ..................................................................................... 2Back Dimensions & Layout .................................................................................... 3Top Dimensions & Layout ...................................................................................... 4Sub Top Dimensions & Layout .............................................................................. 5Top Trim and T-Track ............................................................................................. 6Drawer Slides, Stiffener, Misc. Small Parts ............................................................ 7Drawer Fronts, Front Trim, and Doors ................................................................... 8Drawer Boxes .......................................................................................................... 9Router Bit Trays .................................................................................................... 10Middle Shelves ...................................................................................................... 11

Part 2 - Assembly Instructions

Drawer Slides - Left Section - Left Panel ............................................................. 12Drawer Slides - Left Section - Right Panel ........................................................... 13Drawer Slides - Center Section - Left Panel ......................................................... 14Drawer Slides - Center Section -Right Panel ........................................................ 15Drawer Slides - Right Section - Left Panel ........................................................... 16Drawer Slides - Right Section - Right Panel ......................................................... 17Base to Panels ........................................................................................................ 18Stiffener - Casters .................................................................................................. 19Attach the Back ..................................................................................................... 20Router Box Bottom ............................................................................................... 21Router Box Front & Shelves ................................................................................. 22Assemble the Face Frame ...................................................................................... 23Attach the Face Frame ........................................................................................... 24Attach the Leveling Blocks to the Panels .............................................................. 25Attach the Front & Rear Leveling Blocks ............................................................. 26

Table of Contents - 2

Assembly Instructions - Continued

Attach the Sub Top ................................................................................................ 27Attach the Inner Trim ............................................................................................ 28Attach the Middle Trim ......................................................................................... 29Attach the Top ....................................................................................................... 30Attach the Track to the Top ................................................................................... 31Attach the Track to the Front & Ends ................................................................... 32Attach the Lower Trim .......................................................................................... 33Assemble the Drawer Boxes & Fronts .................................................................. 34Assemble the Router Trays ................................................................................... 35Attach Cabinet Doors ............................................................................................ 36Attach Middle Door trim ....................................................................................... 37Clamping System Parts ......................................................................................... 38Assemble the EZ Mount Stop ............................................................................... 39Clamping System Usage Instructions .................................................................... 40Clamping System Illustrations .............................................................................. 41Clamping Long Work Pieces................................................................................. 42Snapshots ............................................................................................................... 43Cutting Plywood panels ........................................................................................ 44

T-Track Kit

Tools and Accessories You’ll NeedNote: Images and underlined text are active web links.

Low Cost Lift for Plunge Routers Large Router Plate

This 9" x 12" x 3/8" router table plate is a little larger than the work-bench plans call for and will require the router plate opening size to be adjusted accordingly. It has a patented leveling system to insure a perfect flush fit. Standard snap out center disk accepts Porter-Ca-ble style template bushings. Reference grid on the bottom of the plate makes router attachment easy. Has two mounting slots for adding an optional Freehand Guard. Tough composite construction. Brass Starting Pin included. Even better - it’s not very expensive. USA

4 Piece Router Accessory kitLow Cost Router Fence

Shop Casters

Low Cost Router Platewww.hartvilletool.com

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10274&sid=AF913





http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/12144/affiliate_id=99

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11400?affiliate_id=99&location=RouterTable

Materials List - 1

Qty Size Material Item name

2 29 1/4” by 19” 3/4” Oak Plywood End Panels

2 28 1/4” by 18 1/4” 3/4” Plywood Middle Panels

1 66 1/2” by 19” 3/4” Plywood Base

1 66 1/2” by 28 1/4” 3/4” Plywood Back

1 72” by 24” 3/4” MDF Board Top

1 68” by 19 3/4” 3/4” MDF Board Sub Top

2 69 1/2” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood or Plywood 1st Front & Back Sub Top Trim

2 21 1/4” ” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood or Plywood 1st End Sub Top Trim

2 71” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood or Plywood 2nd Front & Back Sub Top Trim

2 22 3/4” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood or Plywood 2nd End Sub Top Trim

2 36” 1/2” by 3/4” T-Track Front T-Track

5 24” 1/2” by 3/4” T-Track End & Top T-Track

1 72” by 3/4” by 1/2” 1/2” Thick MDF or Wood Front Lower T-Track Trim

2 24” by 3/4” by 1/2” 1/2” Thick MDF or Wood End Lower T-Track Trim

17 18 1/4” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood Drawer Supports

5 6” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood Small Drawer Supports

10 18 1/4” by 2 1/2” 3/4” Wood Drawer Side Guides

2 6” by 2 1/2” 3/4” Wood Small Drawer Side Guides

4 18 1/4” by 3” 3/4” Wood Lower Drawer Side Guides

6 18 1/4” by 2” 3/4” Wood Lower Drawer Supports

2 14 1/2” by 2” 3/4” Wood Lower Back Supports

1 27 1/2” by 2” 3/4” Wood Center Lower Back Support

4 17 1/2” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood 17 1/2” Leveling Block


2 30” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood 30” Leveling Block


1 66 1/2” 2 by 4 (3 1/2” by 1 1/2”) Stiffener

6 16” by 1 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Drawer Trim

2 29 1/4” by 1 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Vertical End Trim

1 30” by 1 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Middel Trim

x

Materials List - 2

Qty Size Material Item name

2 23 1/4” by 1 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Vertical Divider Trim

2 65” by 3” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Upper & Lower Trim

1 3 1/2” by 30 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Center Drawer Front

2 3 1/2” by 16 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Top Drawer Front

2 4 1/2” by 16 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 4 1/2” Drawer Front

2 5 1/4” by 16 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 5 1/4” Drawer Front

2 7” by 16 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 7” Drawer Front

2 19” by 14 3/4” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Cabinet Doors

1 3/4” thick wood or plywood Door Lip

1 17 1/2” by 11 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Router Box Front

6 19” by 2 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Top Drawer Sides

4 19” by 3 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 3 7/8” Drawer Sides



2 28 3/8” by 2 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Center Drawer Ends

4 14 3/8” by 2 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Top Drawer Ends

4 14 3/8” by 3 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 3 7/8” Drawer Ends



1 29 1/8” by 18 1/4” 1/4” Hardboard Center Drawer Bottom

6 15 1/8”” by 18 1/4” 1/4” Hardboard Drawer Bottom

2 6” by 2 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Top Router Tray Sides

2 6” by 3 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 2nd Router Bit Trays

2 14 7/8” by 6” 1/2” thick material Router Bit Trays

2 14 7/8” by 6” 1/4” thick material Router Bit Bottoms

1 18 1/4” by 30” 3/4” plywood Middle Shelf

xi

28 1/4"

18 1/4"

Middle Panels

(2 Required)

29 1/4"

19"

End Panel

(2 Required)

End and Center PanelsPage 1

The two end panels are 1" taller than the center panels. This is because the center panels sit on the top surface of the base and the end panels extend 1/4" below the bottom surface of the base..

The end panels are also 3/4" wider than the center panels. This is so they will be flush with the ends of the back section.

C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioCopyright

9 1/2"

9 1/2"

18 5

/8"

19"

2" 2"

3/8"

2"3/8 "

10"

9 1 /

4"9

1/4"

10"

9 1 /

4"9

1/4"

3/8"

18 5

/8"

2"

Ba s

e

Cu t

the

bas e

fro m

3/4

" m

a ter

ial,

the n

dril

l and

cou

nter

sink

hol

es fo

r #8

scr e

ws

as sh

o wn

in

the

dra w

ing

abo v

e. A

ll th

e sc

r ew

s ar

o und

the

edg e

are

3/8

" fr

o m th

e ed

g e.

Base

Dim

ensi

o ns

& La

you t

Pag

e 2

200 6

by

Ro b

ert E

. Ree

dy, V

anda

lia, O

hio

CC

opyr

ight

66 1

/2"

Back

Dim

ensi

o ns

& L

ayou

t

Pag

e 3

200 6

by

Ro b

ert E

. Ree

dy, V

anda

lia, O

hio

CC

opyr

ight

Ba c

k

17 1

/2"

30 3

/4"

17 1

/2"

1 1/4"

3/4"

10"

17 1/8"

22"

28 1/4"

66 1

/2"

Cu t

the

bac k

fro m

3/4

" m

a ter

ial,

the n

dri l

l and

cou

nter

s ink

hol

es fo

r #8

scr e

ws a

s sho

wn

in

the

dra w

i ng

abo v

e.

Top Dimensions and LayoutPage 4

CopyrightC 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

This

dra

win

g is

bas

e d o

n a

9 1/

4" b

y 11

3/4

" ro

uter

pla

te. I

f you

ar

e us

ing

a di

ffe r

ent s

ize

plat

e ,yo

u w

ill n

eed

to a

dju s

t the

size

of

the

open

ing

acco

rdin

gly.

The

rout

er p

late

ope

n ing

is a

two

step

pr

oces

s. Y

ou m

ust c

ut a

n in

ner o

pen i

ng th

at le

aves

room

for a

3/

4" w

ide

lip a

rou n

d al

l fou

r edg

e s. T

his l

ip is

wha

t the

rout

er

plat

e re

sts u

pon .

Firs

t , cu

t the

inne

r ope

n ing

com

plet

ely

thro

ugh

the

top.

If y

o u' re

us

ing

a 9

1/4"

by

11 3

/4"

rout

er p

late

, thi

s inn

e r o

pen i

ng sh

ould

be

7 3

/4"

by 1

0 1/

4". T

he n

ext s

tep

is to

use

you

r rou

t er t

o cr

eate

th

e lip

aro

u nd

the

side

s of t

he o

pen i

ng. S

ee th

e de

taile

d in

str u

ctio

ns o

n th

e fo

llow

ing

page

for t

his s

tep .

24"

72"

10 1

/8"

10 1

/8"

10 1/4"

7 3/4"

Rou

ter P

late

Cut

out

24"

7"

10"

6"

24"

Fenc

e T-

Tr a

ck S

lot

T-Tr

ack

& M

iter S

lot C

utou

t Dim

ensi

ons

The

T-T r

ack

and

mit e

r gau

ge

slot

dim

ensi

ons

are

bas e

d on

the

cen t

er o

f the

slot

s. H

owev

er, t

he

exa c

t loc

a tio

n of

thes

e ite

ms i

s st

rictly

a m

atte

r of p

ers o

nal

cho i

ce.

30 1/2"

Mite

r Gua

ge S

lot

If y

ou w

ill b

e us

ing

a re

adym

ade

rou t

er fe

nce,

yo

u m

ay n

eed

to c

hang

e th

e sp

a cin

g of

the

fenc

e tra

c k sl

ots t

o m

atch

yo

u r fe

nce.

T- T

rack

Slo

t

T-T r

ack

size

s var

y fr

om

bran

d to

bra

n d. T

he

mos

t com

mon

size

s are

3/

4" w

ide

by 1

/2"

dee p

or

3/4

" w

ide

by 3

/8"

dee p

. Cut

the

slot

s so

the

trac k

you

're u

sin g

is

flus h

with

the

top

surf

ace.

6 3/4"

17"

Sub Top Dimensions and LayoutPage 5

Dril

l and

cou

nter

scr

ewho

les

for #

8 fla

thea

d sc

rew

s in

the

loca

tions

sho

wn

belo

w.

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

68"

19 3/4"

8"

Rou

ter B

oxC

utou

t18"

15 5/8"

Not

e : T

his

d iag

ram

is b

ase d

on

a 9

1/4"

by

11 3

/4" r

oute

r pla

te.

If yo

u ar

e us

ing

a d i

ffere

nt s

ize

pla t

e, b

e su

re to

ad j

ust t

he o

peni

ng s

ize

acco

rdin

g ly.

Sub

Top

8 3/4"

10"

3"3"

10"

3"3"

3"3"

1 1/

8"

1 1/

8"

1 1/

8"

1 1/

8"

Sub

Top

Scr

ew H

ole

Layo

ut

Scre

w H

ole

Layo

ut

Rou

ter B

oxC

utou

t

19 3/8"

19 3/8"

14 5/8"

14 5/8"

9 1/2"

16"

26"

26"

16"

9 1/2"

2006

by

Rob

ert E

. Re e

dy, V

anda

lia, O

hio

CC

opyr

ight

45°

69 1

/2"

45°

1st F

ront

& B

ack

Su b

Top

Trim

(2 R

equi

red )

1 1/2"

The

Sub

Top

tr im

is m

ade

o f 3

/4" t

hick

by

1 1/

2" h

igh

mat

e ria

l. T h

is b

e cau

se th

e T -

Trac

k is

1/2

" by

3 /4"

.

45°

21 1

/4"

45° 1s

t End

Sub

Top

Tr im

(2 R

equi

red)

1 1/2"

45°

71"

45°

1 1/2"

2nd

Fron

t & B

ack

Sub

Top

Trim

(2 R

equi

red)

45°

45°

22 3

/4"

1 1/2"

2nd

End

Su b

Top

Trim

(2 R

equi

red )

The

T-Tr

a ck

trim

is m

ade

o f 1

/2" t

hick

by

3/4"

hig

h m

ater

ial.

This

bec

a use

the

T-Tr

ack

is 1

/2" b

y 3/

4 ".

3/4"

45°

45°

Fron

t T-T

rack

Trim

(1 R

equ i

red)

72"

3/4"

45°

45°

23 3

/4"

End

T-Tr

ack

Trim

(2 R

equi

r ed)

35 1

/2"

Fron

t T-T

rack

(2 R

e qui

red)

End

T-Tr

ack

(2 R

equi

red)

23 1

/4"

If y

ou h

ave

a po

c ket

hol

e jig

, I re

ccom

men

d dr

illin

g po

c ket

hol

e s in

the

2nd

Sub

Top

Trim

pie

c es a

s sho

wn.

The

se p

ocke

t hol

e s w

ill b

e us

ed to

secu

re th

e To

p to

the

Sub

Top .

The

exa

c t lo

catio

n of

the

poc k

et h

ole s

is n

ot c

riti c

al. T

he im

p orta

nt th

ing

is th

at th

ey d

o no

t lin

e up

w

ith th

e sc

rew

hol

e s in

yo u

r T-T

rack

. If y

ou d

o no

t hav

e a

poc k

et h

ole

jig, t

he T

op c

an b

e se

cure

d w

ith fi

nis h

ing

nail s

or g

lue .

Top

Trim

&T-

Tra c

kP

age

6

Center Lower Back Supports (1)2"

27 1/2"

Stiff

ener

(Mak

e th

e st

iffen

e r fr

om 1

1/2

" thi

ck m

ate r

ial)

66 1/2"

3 1/2"


Drawer Slides / Stiffener / Misc Small Parts

18 1/4"1 1/2" Drawer Supports (17) 1 1/2"

6"

Small Drawer Supports (5)

2 1/2"

18 1/4"

Drawer Side Guides (10) 2 1/2"

6"

Small Drawer Side Guides (2)

18 1/4"

3" Lower Drawer Side Guides (4) 2"

18 1/4"

Lower Drawer Supports (6)

Lower Back Supports (2)2"

14 1/2"

1 1/2"17 1/2"

17 1/2" Leveling Blocks (4)16 3/4"

1 1/2" 16 3/4" Leveling Blocks (3)

30"1 1/2" 30" Leveling Blocks (2) 1 1/2"

10 1/4" Leveling Block (1)

10 1/4"

Page 7

Drawer Fronts, Front Trim, and Doors


16 1/2"

7" 7" Drawer Fronts (2)

16 1/2"

5 1/4" 5 1/4" Drawer Fronts (2)

3 1/2"

Top Drawer Fronts (2)

16 1/2"

4 1/2" Drawer Fronts (2)

16 1/2"

4 1/2"

Cabinet Doors (2)

14 3/4"

19"

3 1/2"

30 1/2"

Center Drawer Front (1)

Router Box Bottom (1)

16"

11 1/2"

17 1/2"

11 1/2"

1"3/4"

Router Box Front (1)

Drawer Fronts Dimensions Router Box Dimensions

Page 8

29 1/4"1 1/2" Vertical End Trim (2)Drawer Trim (6)1 1/2"

16"

Middle Trim (1)1 1/2"30" 23 1/4"

1 1/2" Vertical Divider Trim (2)

Upper & Lower Trim (2)

65"

3"

18 1/2"

2" Middle Door Trim (1)

2 7/8"

Center Drawer Ends (2)

28 3/8"

2 7/8"

14 3/8"

Top Drawer Ends (4)

14 3/8"

6 5/8" 6 5/8" Drawer Ends (4)

14 3/8"

3 7/8"

3 7/8" Drawer Ends (4)

14 3/8"

4 7/8" 4 7/8" Drawer Ends (4)

15 1/8"

Drawer Bottoms (6)Center Drawer Bottom (1)

18 1/4"

29 1/8"

18 1/4"

Drawer Boxes DimensionsPage 9

C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioCopyright

Top Drawer Sides (6)

2 7/8"

19"

19"

6 5/8" 6 5/8" Drawer Sides (4)

3 7/8" Drawer Sides (4)

19"

3 7/8"

19"

4 7/8" Drawer Sides (4)4 7/8"

1/4"

3/8"

1/4"

Det

a il V

iew

- D

raw

er B

o tto

m C

utou

t

6" 2 7/8"

Top Router Tray Sides (2)

6"

3 7/8"

2nd Router Tray Sides (2)

3 7/8"

1 1/2"

1/4"1/4"

1/2"

Top

Rou

ter T

ray

Side

s (E

nd V

iew

)

1/4"

1/2"

2 1/2"

3 7/8"

1/4"

2nd

Rou

ter T

ray

Side

s (E

nd V

iew

)

The tray sides are made from 3/4" material. The heights of the sides are 2 7/8" and 3 7/8" respectively. This provides 1/8" of top clearance in the drawer openings.

Cut 1/2" wide by 1/4" deep slots for the router trays in the sides as shown. Then cut a 1/4" rabbit on the bottom of each side as shown. The 1/4" rabbits are for the bottoms. The bottoms are necessary so the router bits cannot protude past the bottom of the drawer opening.

Router Bit TraysPage 10

6"

14 7/8"

Cut two 6" by 14 7/8" router bits trays from 1/2" thick material and two bottoms from 1/4" thick material as shown above.

Drill several 1/4" and 1/2" holes for your router bits in the 1/2" thick sections. The exact location of the holes is strictly a matter of preference. I put the holes about 1 1/2" apart in the prototype.

Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC

14 7/8"

Router Bit Tray - Bottom (2)

1/4" thick material

Router Bit Tray (2)

1/2" thick material

Middle Shelves DimensionsPage 11

18 1/4"Middle Shelf

30"


Lower Track Trim (2)

(Lower Track Trim is made of 1/2" thick material.)

18"

1"

18"

2 3/4" Lower Track Support (2)

(Lower Track Support is made of 1 1/2" thick material.)

Attach Drawer Slides Left Section - Left PanelPage 12


5"

17"

25 1/4"

19"

Left End Panel

3"

4"

5"

6 3/4"

Drawer Support

Drawer Support

Lower Drawer Support

Drawer Support

Drawer Side Guide

Drawer Support

Leveling Block

1"

Lower Drawer Side Guide

Drawer Side Guide

Drawer Side Guide

10 1/2"

Attach Drawer Slides Left Section - Right Panel

5"

10 1/2"

17"

25 1/4"

3"

18 1/4"

Drawer Support

Drawer Support

Drawer Support


Drawer Support


Drawer Side Guide

Drawer Side Guide

Drawer Side Guide


Drawer Support

Drawer Support

Leveling Block

6"

13 3/4"

26 1/4"


3"

6 1/4"

11"

Attach Drawer Slides Center Section - Left PanelPage 14


Left Inside Panel

Drawer Support

Drawer Support

Leveling Block


6"

13 3/4"

26 1/4"

Attach Drawer Slides Center Section - Right Panel


Right Inside Panel

Page 15

3"3"

5"

10 1/2"

17"

25 1/4"

4"

Drawer Side Guide

Drawer Side Guide


Drawer Support

Drawer Support


6" Support

6" Support

6" Side Guide

Attach Drawer Slides - Right Section - Left Panel


Page 16

Right Section - Right Panel

3"5"

10 1/2"

17"

25 1/4"

4"

5"

6 3/4"

Drawer Side GuideDrawer Support

Drawer Side GuideDrawer Support

Lower Drawer Side GuideLower Drawer Support

6" Support

6" Side Guide6" Support

6" Leveler

1"

11 1/2" Leveler

Page 17Attach Drawer Slides Right Section - Right Panel


Attach the Panels to the BasePage 18

17 1/2"

30"

17 1/2"



Stiffener

Attach the casters to the base as shown. Then position the stiffener as close to the front as possible while still allowing clearance for the swival casters to rotate. Mark the position of the stiffener, then drill about six holes for #8 wood screws through the base. Apply some glue and secure the stiffener to the base with 2" #8 screws.

The screw heads will be inside cabinet below the drawers so it doesn't matter if you use flathead or pan head screws..

Attach theStiffener & Casters to the BasePage 19

Attach the back to the vertical panels a

nd base with 1

1/2" #8 flathead screws as shown.

Attach The BackPage 20


Attach the router box bottom to the drawer slides.

Attach the middle shelf to the supports.

Router Box B ottom

Middle Shelf

Attach the Router Box Bottom & Middle ShelfPage 21



Attach the router box front to the router box bottom and to the rear end surface of the drawer slides.

Attach the Router Box FrontPage 22

Assemble the Face FramePage 23


Assemble the front trim pieces (face frame) as shown. Be sure the horizontal drawer separator pieces are properly spaced so they line up with the drawer slides.

The top of each piece of horizontal drawer separator trim should be flush with the top of a drawer slide.

Pocket holes are the easiest way to join trim or face frames as they are often called. if you don't have a pocket hole jig, you can use dowel joints.

Don't forget! The pocket holes go on the back side of the face frame.


Attach the FaceFrame to the CabinetPage 24

Attach the assembled face frame to the cabinet with finishing nails. Then, countersink and fill the nail holes with wood putty.

When all the blocks are level, tighten the screws and recheck that they did not move.

Now, you are ready to attach the leveling blocks. This is the way you ensure that the top is perfectly flat when the workbench is completed. First, drill three 1/4" diameter holes completely through each leveling block, (the two shortest ones only need two holes). The exact location of the holes is not critical. Drill a hole about 2" from each end and one in the middle of each leveling block. To keep the glue from setting before you're finished, it's best to attach the end and center panel leveling blocks first and ensure they are level with each other before attaching the front and rear ones.

After all the blocks are in place, use a straight edge to ensure the top surfaces of all the leveling blocks are level with each other. If you have a four foot level, that would work great.

Apply some glue to the mating faces and attach the end and center panel leveling blocks using 1 1/2" #8 pan head screws with flat washers as shown. Do not tighten the screws yet as the blocks must be leveled first.


The important thing is that the top surfaces of the leveling blocks be level with each other. This will provide a flat surface to mount the sub top to.

Attach the Leveling Blocks to the End and Center PanelsPage 25


Attach the Front & Rear Leveling Blocks Page 26

Apply glue to the mating surfaces and attach the front and rear leveling blocks as shown in the diagram. Use your straight edge to ensure the tops are even with the tops of the end and center leveling blocks. Then tighten the screws.


Attach the Sub Top with 1 1/2" #8 flathead screws. The Sub Top should be flush to the edges of the cabinet on all four sides.

Attach the Sub Top to the CabinetPage 27


Attach the Inner Sub Top Trim to the Sub Top with 1 1/2" #8 flathead screws. Be sure the top of the trim is flush with the top surface of the Sub Top.

Attach the Inner Sub Top TrimPage 28

Attach the Middle Trim to the Inner Sub Top TrimPage 29


Attach the Middle Sub Top Trim to the Inner Sub Top Trim with 1 1/2" #8 flathead screws. Be sure to space these screws so they don't interfere with the screws in the inner trim or the T-Track which will be attched to the Middle Sub Top trim. The pocket holes will be used to attach the edges of the top to the trim.

Attach the Top to the Sub Top Page 30


Pocket Hole Screws

Attach the Top to the Sub Top with 1" #8 flathead screws through the cutouts for the T-Track and Miter guage track. Secure the edges of the top with pocket hole screws through the holes you drilled through the Inner Sub Top Trim. If you don't have a pocket hole jig, you can glue the Top to the Sub Top. However, gluing it will make it much more difficult to replace the top in the future if you need to.

Note: The dimensions given in these plans are based using T-Track that is 3/4" wide and 1/2" thick. If your T-Track is a different size, you will need to modify the thickness of the inner trim accordingly.

Attach the T-Track & Miter track to the TopPage 31


Attach the Lower Track Support to the left side of the cabinet with six 2" #8 flathead screws. Position this piece so it is 1" below the Sub Top Trim and centered front to back.

Attach the T-Track to the top as shown with 1" #6 screws. Some manufacturers countersink the holes for mounting the track and others do not. From my experience, I prefer flathead screws with countersunk holes. This keeps the screw heads from interfering with the bolts sliding through the track. The track I used for the prototype was designed for pan head screws, so I countersunk them on my drill press.

The miter guage track is not subject to much stress so you can glue it in the slot. If you use screws, be sure the screw heads are below the surface so the miter guage does not hang up on them. I would not reccommend polyurethane glues because they expand as they set up. The expanding glue would lift the miter track up above the surface of the workbench top. A construction adhesive like liquid nails works fine.

Top T-Track

Miter Guage Track

Attach the T-Track to the Edges of the Front and EndsPage 32


Attach the edge T-Track on each end and along the front to the middle Sub Top Trim with 1" #6 screws. Position this T-Track under the bottom surface of the Top as shown in the detail drawing.

T-Track joins at the corners like this so you can slide the bolts in and out. End T-Track

Front T-Track

End T-Track

Detail

Attach the Lower T-Track to the Lower T-Track Support. The T-Track should be centered top to bottom.

Attach the Lower Front Trim to the Front and EndsPage 33


Detail

Attach the Lower Top Trim on each end and along the front to the middle Sub Top Trim with 1 1/2" finishing nails.

If you cut the top a little larger than the dimensions called for, you can trim it with your router and a flush trimming bit. Use the Lower Top Trim for the bit bearing to follow.

The Lower Top Trim joins at the corners like this.

Lower Trim

Attach the Lower Track Trim with finishing nails.

Lower Trim

Step 2 Step 3

Left Side

Step 1

Right Side

Front

Back

Step 5Step 4

Support the drawer boxes with 1/4" thick strips of wood and attach the drawer fronts with 1 1/8" screws as shown. This is necessary because the bottom of the front must be 1/4" below the bottom of the box so it will overlap the rear cabinet trim when installed.

Apply a little glue to the mating surfaces and assemble the drawer boxes.

Assemble the front, back, and right side with finishing nails as shown in Step 1. Insert the bottom as shown in Step 2. Attach the left side as shown in Step 3.

Assemble the DrawersPage 34


Assemble the Router Bit TraysPage 34


Attach the drawer fronts to the router tray fronts with pocket hole screws on each side as shown. Don't forget to support the trays with 1/4" thick strips of wood while you attach the fronts. As with the drawers, the bottom of the fronts must be 1/4" below the bottom of the trays so the fronts will overlap the cabinet trim when installed.

Assemble the Router trays with finishing nails as shown above.

Attach the Cabinet DoorsPage 36


Attach the cabinet doors so the tops align with the tops of the drawers and the sides align with the ends of the middle drawer as shown above.

Attach the Middle Door trimPage 37


Attach the Middle Door Lip to the back of either of the cabinet doors so half of it is visible as shown. Attach it to the back of the door with a couple of 1" wood screws. The left door is not pictured in the drawing for clarity.

This piece serves as a door lip so there is no visible gap between the doors.

Now, you're ready to attach the Drawer and Door handles and your work bench is finished.

Clamping System PartsPage 38


"2

3/8" Button Hole

Clamp Jaw Layout (Side 2)

"2 3/4

5/16" Bolt Hole

3/8" Button Hole

"3 1/2

Clamp Jaw Layout (Side 1)

2"

4 1/2"

Clamp Jaws (2)

5/8"

3 1/2"

1 1/2"

2 3/4"

End

V iew3" 3"1 1/2"

Rear StopDia - 5/16"

24"

Dia - 5/16"

1 3/4"1 3/4"2"

28"

EZ Clamp Stop

Post (2)2"

2 1/2"

Drill two pocket holes in each Post as shown below. Next, drill two 1/4" diameter holes in the end of each Post as shown. (The 1/4" holes should only be 1/2" deep.) 2"

4"

Jaws (2)

1/2"

Posts

Dia - 5/16" 1/2"

3/8"

Jaws

"2 1/4

Drill a 5/16" bolt through each jaw as shown. Next, drill two 5/16" holes for the dowel pins in each Jaw as shown. (The dowel pin holes are 5/16" diameter so the Jaws can pivot over the pins. These holes should be 1/2" deep.)

Assemble the EZ Mount StopPage 39


Attach the Posts to the ends of the Stop Bar with pocket hole screws as shown below. Next, cut four 7/8" long dowel pins from 1/4" dowel rod. Apply some glue and insert a 1/4" dowel pin into each hole in the ends of the Posts. (The dowel pins should protude about 3/8" from the ends of the Posts.)

Place the Jaws over the protuding dowel pins as shown above. (Do not glue the dowel pins to the Jaws as the Jaws must be allowed to pivot in order to work as clamps.) Insert a 5/16 carriage bolt through the holes as shown. (The carriage bolt should be 5" long. Secure the pieces with a flat washer and knob.

Clamping System UsagePage 40


The T-Track clamping system provides a flexible way of clamping both large and small work pieces. Most work pieces can be clamped using the two Clamp Jaws and the Rear Stop. The Clamp Jaws are used with the T-Track that runs along the front edge of the workbench. The Rear Stop is used with the T-Track that is embedded in the top surface of the workbench.

For longer workpieces, you can use the the Clamp Jaws with the T-Track on the ends of the workbench. The EZ Mount Stop may be secured anywhere along the workbench top. The simple clamps on each end of the EZ Mount Stop grip the edge of the workbench top as well as C-Clamps. This feature enables you to use the workbench as a large bar clamp for gluing up boards.

You can make the clamping system grip the work piece even tighter by gluing strips of 100 grit sandpaper along the edges that contact the workpiece. The sandpaper requires much less force than the surface of bare wood.

The button arrangement on the Clamp Jaws allows you to filp the Clamp Jaws over for thicker work pieces. The drawings on the next two pages illustrates how the clamps work.

To clamp a work piece, position the workpiece so the edge protudes slightly over the edge of the workbench top as shown. Then, position the Rear Stop against the workpiece and tighten it to T-Track using the knobs. Next, tighten the Clamp Jaws against the workpiece with the knobs and your work piece will be clamped just like with a vice.

For thinner workpieces, position the Clamp Jaws and Rear Stop as shown. If your workpiece is thinner than 3/4", you can place strips of wood under the work piece so it is slightly higher than the top edges of the Clamp Jaws.

For thicker workpieces, flip the Clamp Jaws so the second button is against the Lower T-Track Trim and reverse the Rear Stop so the thicker edge is against the workpiece.

Using the ClampsPage 41


Rear Stop

T-Track

Second Button

Button

Clamp JawWorkpiece

For thicker workpieces, flip the Clamp Jaw so the second button is against the Lower T-Track Trim and reverse the Rear Stop so the thicker edge is against the workpiece.

T-Track

Button

Second Button

Clamp JawWorkpiece

Rear Stop

For thinner workpieces, position the Clamp Jaws and Rear Stop as shown.

Clamping Long WorkpiecesPage 42

Copyright c by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio

To clamp long work pieces, use the Clamping Jaws and EZ Mount Stop as shown.

SnapshotsPage 43

Clamping a small work piece Clamping a large work piece Clamping a thick work piece

Clamp a large work pieceHold down clamps.

Close up view of the Router Plate.

Clamping a work light. Arranging the jaws for use with the EZ Mount Stop.The purple edge is the 100 grit sandpaper used to make the stop grip the work piece tighter.

The biggest challenge for most of us will be cutting the large panels from full size sheets of plywood.

Large commercial shops typically use a panel saw for this purpose. However, traditional panel saws cost several hundred dollars and they take up way too much space for most home shops.

Now anyone can have a panel saw. Here is one you can make yourself from just a few common boards. In fact, you may already have enough scrap wood in your shop to make it.

This panel saw uses four simple tracks that can be mounted on saw horses as shown to the right. When finished, just store the tracks in an out of the way corner of your shop. (After you build your new workbench, you won’t even need the saw horses. Just roll the workbench out onto the floor and mount the tracks to the workbench top.)

The four identical tracks clamp to a couple of two by fours or your workbench top. The support pads, (I call them “risers” in the plans), hold the work piece above the tracks to provide the proper clearance for your saw blade.

To cut along the length of the panel, you simply place the risers so there are two rows of them on each side of the cut. This provides support for the whole panel during and after the cut. To cut across the panel, just position the tracks so two tracks are on each side of the cut. You’ll get the same accuracy and square cuts as with your table saw.

The plans show you how to make simple wooden clamps for securing the work piece to the tracks. These clamps will not mar your wood and the work pieces will be securely supported until you’re ready to move them. If you prefer not to make the wooden clamps, you can use ordinary C-Clamps instead.

I’ll also show you how to make a simple zero clearance saw guide that provides a splinter free cut - even when you’re cutting across the grain! You simply align the edge of the saw guide to your pencil marks, and your splinter-free cut will be exactly at the mark!

Well, what do you think? Are you ready to build the best workbench in town?

Not only will this panel saw make it easy to build your new workbench, it will save you lots of work and time on future projects.

Projects like cabinets, a kids play house, a storage shed, or a dog house for your best friend. Any project that requires plywood will be easier from now on.

So don’t wait. Order your Panel Saw Plans now and then get started on the best workbench in town.

Panel Saw Plans - Only $4.99Click Here

Cutting Plywood Panels.

Easy to make Panel Saw

Using the Panel Saw

http://www.bobsplans.com/BobsPlans/PanelSaw/PanelSaw.php

workbench

Documents

drawer fronts

drawer boxes

router table

flat work surface

ample work space

base dimensions layout

right size

entire work