Download - Workbench
www.BobsPlans.com
The Best Workbench in Town
We all have limited space in our shops. This workbench is designed to provide the maximum function-ality using the minimum amount of space possible. It provides a work surface of about six feet by two feet and is about 35” in height. Just the right size to provide ample work space for most projects.
The features that make this workbench ideal for the home shop are the built in clamping system, the built in router table, the nine drawers, the center cabinet space, and the mobility. The four inch casters enable you to easily roll it into position when needed and roll it aside when it is not in use.
The top surface is made of two layers of 3/4” MDF. This provides an extremely flat work surface and since it is also a router table, a flat work surface is a must. The T-track inlaid in the top and around the edges makes the entire work surface a versatile clamping system that easily clamps very small or very large work pieces.
Copyright © 2006 by Robert E. ReedyAll Rights Reserved
This document may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the author.
Revision: 12/19/2007
Table of Contents
Part 1 - Dimensions Drawings
Materials List ............................................................................................................xMaterials List ............................................................................................................xEnd and Center Panels ............................................................................................. 1Base Dimensions & Layout ..................................................................................... 2Back Dimensions & Layout .................................................................................... 3Top Dimensions & Layout ...................................................................................... 4Sub Top Dimensions & Layout .............................................................................. 5Top Trim and T-Track ............................................................................................. 6Drawer Slides, Stiffener, Misc. Small Parts ............................................................ 7Drawer Fronts, Front Trim, and Doors ................................................................... 8Drawer Boxes .......................................................................................................... 9Router Bit Trays .................................................................................................... 10Middle Shelves ...................................................................................................... 11
Part 2 - Assembly Instructions
Drawer Slides - Left Section - Left Panel ............................................................. 12Drawer Slides - Left Section - Right Panel ........................................................... 13Drawer Slides - Center Section - Left Panel ......................................................... 14Drawer Slides - Center Section -Right Panel ........................................................ 15Drawer Slides - Right Section - Left Panel ........................................................... 16Drawer Slides - Right Section - Right Panel ......................................................... 17Base to Panels ........................................................................................................ 18Stiffener - Casters .................................................................................................. 19Attach the Back ..................................................................................................... 20Router Box Bottom ............................................................................................... 21Router Box Front & Shelves ................................................................................. 22Assemble the Face Frame ...................................................................................... 23Attach the Face Frame ........................................................................................... 24Attach the Leveling Blocks to the Panels .............................................................. 25Attach the Front & Rear Leveling Blocks ............................................................. 26
Table of Contents - 2
Assembly Instructions - Continued
Attach the Sub Top ................................................................................................ 27Attach the Inner Trim ............................................................................................ 28Attach the Middle Trim ......................................................................................... 29Attach the Top ....................................................................................................... 30Attach the Track to the Top ................................................................................... 31Attach the Track to the Front & Ends ................................................................... 32Attach the Lower Trim .......................................................................................... 33Assemble the Drawer Boxes & Fronts .................................................................. 34Assemble the Router Trays ................................................................................... 35Attach Cabinet Doors ............................................................................................ 36Attach Middle Door trim ....................................................................................... 37Clamping System Parts ......................................................................................... 38Assemble the EZ Mount Stop ............................................................................... 39Clamping System Usage Instructions .................................................................... 40Clamping System Illustrations .............................................................................. 41Clamping Long Work Pieces................................................................................. 42Snapshots ............................................................................................................... 43Cutting Plywood panels ........................................................................................ 44
T-Track Kit
Tools and Accessories You’ll NeedNote: Images and underlined text are active web links.
Low Cost Lift for Plunge Routers Large Router Plate
This 9" x 12" x 3/8" router table plate is a little larger than the work-bench plans call for and will require the router plate opening size to be adjusted accordingly. It has a patented leveling system to insure a perfect flush fit. Standard snap out center disk accepts Porter-Ca-ble style template bushings. Reference grid on the bottom of the plate makes router attachment easy. Has two mounting slots for adding an optional Freehand Guard. Tough composite construction. Brass Starting Pin included. Even better - it’s not very expensive. USA
4 Piece Router Accessory kitLow Cost Router Fence
Shop Casters
Low Cost Router Platewww.hartvilletool.com
Materials List - 1
Qty Size Material Item name
2 29 1/4” by 19” 3/4” Oak Plywood End Panels
2 28 1/4” by 18 1/4” 3/4” Plywood Middle Panels
1 66 1/2” by 19” 3/4” Plywood Base
1 66 1/2” by 28 1/4” 3/4” Plywood Back
1 72” by 24” 3/4” MDF Board Top
1 68” by 19 3/4” 3/4” MDF Board Sub Top
2 69 1/2” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood or Plywood 1st Front & Back Sub Top Trim
2 21 1/4” ” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood or Plywood 1st End Sub Top Trim
2 71” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood or Plywood 2nd Front & Back Sub Top Trim
2 22 3/4” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood or Plywood 2nd End Sub Top Trim
2 36” 1/2” by 3/4” T-Track Front T-Track
5 24” 1/2” by 3/4” T-Track End & Top T-Track
1 72” by 3/4” by 1/2” 1/2” Thick MDF or Wood Front Lower T-Track Trim
2 24” by 3/4” by 1/2” 1/2” Thick MDF or Wood End Lower T-Track Trim
17 18 1/4” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood Drawer Supports
5 6” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood Small Drawer Supports
10 18 1/4” by 2 1/2” 3/4” Wood Drawer Side Guides
2 6” by 2 1/2” 3/4” Wood Small Drawer Side Guides
4 18 1/4” by 3” 3/4” Wood Lower Drawer Side Guides
6 18 1/4” by 2” 3/4” Wood Lower Drawer Supports
2 14 1/2” by 2” 3/4” Wood Lower Back Supports
1 27 1/2” by 2” 3/4” Wood Center Lower Back Support
4 17 1/2” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood 17 1/2” Leveling Block
3 16 3/4” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood 16 3/4” Leveling Block
2 30” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood 30” Leveling Block
1 10 1/4” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood 10 1/4” Leveling Block
1 66 1/2” 2 by 4 (3 1/2” by 1 1/2”) Stiffener
6 16” by 1 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Drawer Trim
2 29 1/4” by 1 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Vertical End Trim
1 30” by 1 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Middel Trim
x
Materials List - 2
Qty Size Material Item name
2 23 1/4” by 1 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Vertical Divider Trim
2 65” by 3” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Upper & Lower Trim
1 3 1/2” by 30 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Center Drawer Front
2 3 1/2” by 16 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Top Drawer Front
2 4 1/2” by 16 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 4 1/2” Drawer Front
2 5 1/4” by 16 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 5 1/4” Drawer Front
2 7” by 16 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 7” Drawer Front
2 19” by 14 3/4” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Cabinet Doors
1 3/4” thick wood or plywood Door Lip
1 17 1/2” by 11 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Router Box Front
6 19” by 2 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Top Drawer Sides
4 19” by 3 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 3 7/8” Drawer Sides
4 19” by 4 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 4 7/8” Drawer Sides
4 19” by 6 5/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 6 5/8” Drawer Sides
2 28 3/8” by 2 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Center Drawer Ends
4 14 3/8” by 2 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Top Drawer Ends
4 14 3/8” by 3 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 3 7/8” Drawer Ends
4 14 3/8” by 4 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 4 7/8” Drawer Ends
4 14 3/8” by 6 5/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 6 5/8” Drawer Ends
1 29 1/8” by 18 1/4” 1/4” Hardboard Center Drawer Bottom
6 15 1/8”” by 18 1/4” 1/4” Hardboard Drawer Bottom
2 6” by 2 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Top Router Tray Sides
2 6” by 3 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 2nd Router Bit Trays
2 14 7/8” by 6” 1/2” thick material Router Bit Trays
2 14 7/8” by 6” 1/4” thick material Router Bit Bottoms
1 18 1/4” by 30” 3/4” plywood Middle Shelf
xi
28 1/4"
18 1/4"
Middle Panels
(2 Required)
29 1/4"
19"
End Panel
(2 Required)
End and Center PanelsPage 1
The two end panels are 1" taller than the center panels. This is because the center panels sit on the top surface of the base and the end panels extend 1/4" below the bottom surface of the base..
The end panels are also 3/4" wider than the center panels. This is so they will be flush with the ends of the back section.
C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioCopyright
9 1/2"
9 1/2"
18 5
/8"
19"
2" 2"
3/8"
2"3/8 "
10"
9 1 /
4"9
1/4"
10"
9 1 /
4"9
1/4"
3/8"
18 5
/8"
2"
Ba s
e
Cu t
the
bas e
fro m
3/4
" m
a ter
ial,
the n
dril
l and
cou
nter
sink
hol
es fo
r #8
scr e
ws
as sh
o wn
in
the
dra w
ing
abo v
e. A
ll th
e sc
r ew
s ar
o und
the
edg e
are
3/8
" fr
o m th
e ed
g e.
Base
Dim
ensi
o ns
& La
you t
Pag
e 2
200 6
by
Ro b
ert E
. Ree
dy, V
anda
lia, O
hio
CC
opyr
ight
66 1
/2"
Back
Dim
ensi
o ns
& L
ayou
t
Pag
e 3
200 6
by
Ro b
ert E
. Ree
dy, V
anda
lia, O
hio
CC
opyr
ight
Ba c
k
17 1
/2"
30 3
/4"
17 1
/2"
1 1/4"
3/4"
10"
17 1/8"
22"
28 1/4"
66 1
/2"
Cu t
the
bac k
fro m
3/4
" m
a ter
ial,
the n
dri l
l and
cou
nter
s ink
hol
es fo
r #8
scr e
ws a
s sho
wn
in
the
dra w
i ng
abo v
e.
Top Dimensions and LayoutPage 4
CopyrightC 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
This
dra
win
g is
bas
e d o
n a
9 1/
4" b
y 11
3/4
" ro
uter
pla
te. I
f you
ar
e us
ing
a di
ffe r
ent s
ize
plat
e ,yo
u w
ill n
eed
to a
dju s
t the
size
of
the
open
ing
acco
rdin
gly.
The
rout
er p
late
ope
n ing
is a
two
step
pr
oces
s. Y
ou m
ust c
ut a
n in
ner o
pen i
ng th
at le
aves
room
for a
3/
4" w
ide
lip a
rou n
d al
l fou
r edg
e s. T
his l
ip is
wha
t the
rout
er
plat
e re
sts u
pon .
Firs
t , cu
t the
inne
r ope
n ing
com
plet
ely
thro
ugh
the
top.
If y
o u' re
us
ing
a 9
1/4"
by
11 3
/4"
rout
er p
late
, thi
s inn
e r o
pen i
ng sh
ould
be
7 3
/4"
by 1
0 1/
4". T
he n
ext s
tep
is to
use
you
r rou
t er t
o cr
eate
th
e lip
aro
u nd
the
side
s of t
he o
pen i
ng. S
ee th
e de
taile
d in
str u
ctio
ns o
n th
e fo
llow
ing
page
for t
his s
tep .
24"
72"
10 1
/8"
10 1
/8"
10 1/4"
7 3/4"
Rou
ter P
late
Cut
out
24"
7"
10"
6"
24"
Fenc
e T-
Tr a
ck S
lot
T-Tr
ack
& M
iter S
lot C
utou
t Dim
ensi
ons
The
T-T r
ack
and
mit e
r gau
ge
slot
dim
ensi
ons
are
bas e
d on
the
cen t
er o
f the
slot
s. H
owev
er, t
he
exa c
t loc
a tio
n of
thes
e ite
ms i
s st
rictly
a m
atte
r of p
ers o
nal
cho i
ce.
30 1/2"
Mite
r Gua
ge S
lot
If y
ou w
ill b
e us
ing
a re
adym
ade
rou t
er fe
nce,
yo
u m
ay n
eed
to c
hang
e th
e sp
a cin
g of
the
fenc
e tra
c k sl
ots t
o m
atch
yo
u r fe
nce.
T- T
rack
Slo
t
T-T r
ack
size
s var
y fr
om
bran
d to
bra
n d. T
he
mos
t com
mon
size
s are
3/
4" w
ide
by 1
/2"
dee p
or
3/4
" w
ide
by 3
/8"
dee p
. Cut
the
slot
s so
the
trac k
you
're u
sin g
is
flus h
with
the
top
surf
ace.
6 3/4"
17"
Sub Top Dimensions and LayoutPage 5
Dril
l and
cou
nter
scr
ewho
les
for #
8 fla
thea
d sc
rew
s in
the
loca
tions
sho
wn
belo
w.
Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
68"
19 3/4"
8"
Rou
ter B
oxC
utou
t18"
15 5/8"
Not
e : T
his
d iag
ram
is b
ase d
on
a 9
1/4"
by
11 3
/4" r
oute
r pla
te.
If yo
u ar
e us
ing
a d i
ffere
nt s
ize
pla t
e, b
e su
re to
ad j
ust t
he o
peni
ng s
ize
acco
rdin
g ly.
Sub
Top
8 3/4"
10"
3"3"
10"
3"3"
3"3"
1 1/
8"
1 1/
8"
1 1/
8"
1 1/
8"
Sub
Top
Scr
ew H
ole
Layo
ut
Scre
w H
ole
Layo
ut
Rou
ter B
oxC
utou
t
19 3/8"
19 3/8"
14 5/8"
14 5/8"
9 1/2"
16"
26"
26"
16"
9 1/2"
2006
by
Rob
ert E
. Re e
dy, V
anda
lia, O
hio
CC
opyr
ight
45°
69 1
/2"
45°
1st F
ront
& B
ack
Su b
Top
Trim
(2 R
equi
red )
1 1/2"
The
Sub
Top
tr im
is m
ade
o f 3
/4" t
hick
by
1 1/
2" h
igh
mat
e ria
l. T h
is b
e cau
se th
e T -
Trac
k is
1/2
" by
3 /4"
.
45°
21 1
/4"
45° 1s
t End
Sub
Top
Tr im
(2 R
equi
red)
1 1/2"
45°
71"
45°
1 1/2"
2nd
Fron
t & B
ack
Sub
Top
Trim
(2 R
equi
red)
45°
45°
22 3
/4"
1 1/2"
2nd
End
Su b
Top
Trim
(2 R
equi
red )
The
T-Tr
a ck
trim
is m
ade
o f 1
/2" t
hick
by
3/4"
hig
h m
ater
ial.
This
bec
a use
the
T-Tr
ack
is 1
/2" b
y 3/
4 ".
3/4"
45°
45°
Fron
t T-T
rack
Trim
(1 R
equ i
red)
72"
3/4"
45°
45°
23 3
/4"
End
T-Tr
ack
Trim
(2 R
equi
r ed)
35 1
/2"
Fron
t T-T
rack
(2 R
e qui
red)
End
T-Tr
ack
(2 R
equi
red)
23 1
/4"
If y
ou h
ave
a po
c ket
hol
e jig
, I re
ccom
men
d dr
illin
g po
c ket
hol
e s in
the
2nd
Sub
Top
Trim
pie
c es a
s sho
wn.
The
se p
ocke
t hol
e s w
ill b
e us
ed to
secu
re th
e To
p to
the
Sub
Top .
The
exa
c t lo
catio
n of
the
poc k
et h
ole s
is n
ot c
riti c
al. T
he im
p orta
nt th
ing
is th
at th
ey d
o no
t lin
e up
w
ith th
e sc
rew
hol
e s in
yo u
r T-T
rack
. If y
ou d
o no
t hav
e a
poc k
et h
ole
jig, t
he T
op c
an b
e se
cure
d w
ith fi
nis h
ing
nail s
or g
lue .
Top
Trim
&T-
Tra c
kP
age
6
Center Lower Back Supports (1)2"
27 1/2"
Stiff
ener
(Mak
e th
e st
iffen
e r fr
om 1
1/2
" thi
ck m
ate r
ial)
66 1/2"
3 1/2"
Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Drawer Slides / Stiffener / Misc Small Parts
18 1/4"1 1/2" Drawer Supports (17) 1 1/2"
6"
Small Drawer Supports (5)
2 1/2"
18 1/4"
Drawer Side Guides (10) 2 1/2"
6"
Small Drawer Side Guides (2)
18 1/4"
3" Lower Drawer Side Guides (4) 2"
18 1/4"
Lower Drawer Supports (6)
Lower Back Supports (2)2"
14 1/2"
1 1/2"17 1/2"
17 1/2" Leveling Blocks (4)16 3/4"
1 1/2" 16 3/4" Leveling Blocks (3)
30"1 1/2" 30" Leveling Blocks (2) 1 1/2"
10 1/4" Leveling Block (1)
10 1/4"
Page 7
Drawer Fronts, Front Trim, and Doors
Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
16 1/2"
7" 7" Drawer Fronts (2)
16 1/2"
5 1/4" 5 1/4" Drawer Fronts (2)
3 1/2"
Top Drawer Fronts (2)
16 1/2"
4 1/2" Drawer Fronts (2)
16 1/2"
4 1/2"
Cabinet Doors (2)
14 3/4"
19"
3 1/2"
30 1/2"
Center Drawer Front (1)
Router Box Bottom (1)
16"
11 1/2"
17 1/2"
11 1/2"
1"3/4"
Router Box Front (1)
Drawer Fronts Dimensions Router Box Dimensions
Page 8
29 1/4"1 1/2" Vertical End Trim (2)Drawer Trim (6)1 1/2"
16"
Middle Trim (1)1 1/2"30" 23 1/4"
1 1/2" Vertical Divider Trim (2)
Upper & Lower Trim (2)
65"
3"
18 1/2"
2" Middle Door Trim (1)
2 7/8"
Center Drawer Ends (2)
28 3/8"
2 7/8"
14 3/8"
Top Drawer Ends (4)
14 3/8"
6 5/8" 6 5/8" Drawer Ends (4)
14 3/8"
3 7/8"
3 7/8" Drawer Ends (4)
14 3/8"
4 7/8" 4 7/8" Drawer Ends (4)
15 1/8"
Drawer Bottoms (6)Center Drawer Bottom (1)
18 1/4"
29 1/8"
18 1/4"
Drawer Boxes DimensionsPage 9
C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioCopyright
Top Drawer Sides (6)
2 7/8"
19"
19"
6 5/8" 6 5/8" Drawer Sides (4)
3 7/8" Drawer Sides (4)
19"
3 7/8"
19"
4 7/8" Drawer Sides (4)4 7/8"
1/4"
3/8"
1/4"
Det
a il V
iew
- D
raw
er B
o tto
m C
utou
t
6" 2 7/8"
Top Router Tray Sides (2)
6"
3 7/8"
2nd Router Tray Sides (2)
3 7/8"
1 1/2"
1/4"1/4"
1/2"
Top
Rou
ter T
ray
Side
s (E
nd V
iew
)
1/4"
1/2"
2 1/2"
3 7/8"
1/4"
2nd
Rou
ter T
ray
Side
s (E
nd V
iew
)
The tray sides are made from 3/4" material. The heights of the sides are 2 7/8" and 3 7/8" respectively. This provides 1/8" of top clearance in the drawer openings.
Cut 1/2" wide by 1/4" deep slots for the router trays in the sides as shown. Then cut a 1/4" rabbit on the bottom of each side as shown. The 1/4" rabbits are for the bottoms. The bottoms are necessary so the router bits cannot protude past the bottom of the drawer opening.
Router Bit TraysPage 10
6"
14 7/8"
Cut two 6" by 14 7/8" router bits trays from 1/2" thick material and two bottoms from 1/4" thick material as shown above.
Drill several 1/4" and 1/2" holes for your router bits in the 1/2" thick sections. The exact location of the holes is strictly a matter of preference. I put the holes about 1 1/2" apart in the prototype.
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
14 7/8"
Router Bit Tray - Bottom (2)
1/4" thick material
Router Bit Tray (2)
1/2" thick material
Middle Shelves DimensionsPage 11
18 1/4"Middle Shelf
30"
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Lower Track Trim (2)
(Lower Track Trim is made of 1/2" thick material.)
18"
1"
18"
2 3/4" Lower Track Support (2)
(Lower Track Support is made of 1 1/2" thick material.)
Attach Drawer Slides Left Section - Left PanelPage 12
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
5"
17"
25 1/4"
19"
Left End Panel
3"
4"
5"
6 3/4"
Drawer Support
Drawer Support
Lower Drawer Support
Drawer Support
Drawer Side Guide
Drawer Support
Leveling Block
1"
Lower Drawer Side Guide
Drawer Side Guide
Drawer Side Guide
10 1/2"
Page 13Attach Drawer Slides Left Section - Right Panel
5"
10 1/2"
17"
25 1/4"
3"
18 1/4"
Drawer Support
Drawer Support
Drawer Support
Lower Drawer Support
Drawer Support
Lower Drawer Side Guide
Drawer Side Guide
Drawer Side Guide
Drawer Side Guide
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Drawer Support
Drawer Support
Leveling Block
6"
13 3/4"
26 1/4"
Lower Drawer Support
3"
6 1/4"
11"
Attach Drawer Slides Center Section - Left PanelPage 14
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Left Inside Panel
Drawer Support
Drawer Support
Leveling Block
Lower Drawer Support
6"
13 3/4"
26 1/4"
Attach Drawer Slides Center Section - Right Panel
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Right Inside Panel
Page 15
3"3"
5"
10 1/2"
17"
25 1/4"
4"
Drawer Side Guide
Drawer Side Guide
Lower Drawer Side Guide
Drawer Support
Drawer Support
Lower Drawer Support
6" Support
6" Support
6" Side Guide
Attach Drawer Slides - Right Section - Left Panel
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Page 16
Right Section - Right Panel
3"5"
10 1/2"
17"
25 1/4"
4"
5"
6 3/4"
Drawer Side GuideDrawer Support
Drawer Side GuideDrawer Support
Lower Drawer Side GuideLower Drawer Support
6" Support
6" Side Guide6" Support
6" Leveler
1"
11 1/2" Leveler
Page 17Attach Drawer Slides Right Section - Right Panel
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Attach the Panels to the BasePage 18
17 1/2"
30"
17 1/2"
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Stiffener
Attach the casters to the base as shown. Then position the stiffener as close to the front as possible while still allowing clearance for the swival casters to rotate. Mark the position of the stiffener, then drill about six holes for #8 wood screws through the base. Apply some glue and secure the stiffener to the base with 2" #8 screws.
The screw heads will be inside cabinet below the drawers so it doesn't matter if you use flathead or pan head screws..
Attach theStiffener & Casters to the BasePage 19
Attach the back to the vertical panels a
nd base with 1
1/2" #8 flathead screws as shown.
Attach The BackPage 20
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Attach the router box bottom to the drawer slides.
Attach the middle shelf to the supports.
Router Box B ottom
Middle Shelf
Attach the Router Box Bottom & Middle ShelfPage 21
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Attach the router box front to the router box bottom and to the rear end surface of the drawer slides.
Attach the Router Box FrontPage 22
Assemble the Face FramePage 23
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Assemble the front trim pieces (face frame) as shown. Be sure the horizontal drawer separator pieces are properly spaced so they line up with the drawer slides.
The top of each piece of horizontal drawer separator trim should be flush with the top of a drawer slide.
Pocket holes are the easiest way to join trim or face frames as they are often called. if you don't have a pocket hole jig, you can use dowel joints.
Don't forget! The pocket holes go on the back side of the face frame.
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Attach the FaceFrame to the CabinetPage 24
Attach the assembled face frame to the cabinet with finishing nails. Then, countersink and fill the nail holes with wood putty.
When all the blocks are level, tighten the screws and recheck that they did not move.
Now, you are ready to attach the leveling blocks. This is the way you ensure that the top is perfectly flat when the workbench is completed. First, drill three 1/4" diameter holes completely through each leveling block, (the two shortest ones only need two holes). The exact location of the holes is not critical. Drill a hole about 2" from each end and one in the middle of each leveling block. To keep the glue from setting before you're finished, it's best to attach the end and center panel leveling blocks first and ensure they are level with each other before attaching the front and rear ones.
After all the blocks are in place, use a straight edge to ensure the top surfaces of all the leveling blocks are level with each other. If you have a four foot level, that would work great.
Apply some glue to the mating faces and attach the end and center panel leveling blocks using 1 1/2" #8 pan head screws with flat washers as shown. Do not tighten the screws yet as the blocks must be leveled first.
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
The important thing is that the top surfaces of the leveling blocks be level with each other. This will provide a flat surface to mount the sub top to.
Attach the Leveling Blocks to the End and Center PanelsPage 25
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Attach the Front & Rear Leveling Blocks Page 26
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and attach the front and rear leveling blocks as shown in the diagram. Use your straight edge to ensure the tops are even with the tops of the end and center leveling blocks. Then tighten the screws.
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Attach the Sub Top with 1 1/2" #8 flathead screws. The Sub Top should be flush to the edges of the cabinet on all four sides.
Attach the Sub Top to the CabinetPage 27
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Attach the Inner Sub Top Trim to the Sub Top with 1 1/2" #8 flathead screws. Be sure the top of the trim is flush with the top surface of the Sub Top.
Attach the Inner Sub Top TrimPage 28
Attach the Middle Trim to the Inner Sub Top TrimPage 29
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Attach the Middle Sub Top Trim to the Inner Sub Top Trim with 1 1/2" #8 flathead screws. Be sure to space these screws so they don't interfere with the screws in the inner trim or the T-Track which will be attched to the Middle Sub Top trim. The pocket holes will be used to attach the edges of the top to the trim.
Attach the Top to the Sub Top Page 30
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Pocket Hole Screws
Attach the Top to the Sub Top with 1" #8 flathead screws through the cutouts for the T-Track and Miter guage track. Secure the edges of the top with pocket hole screws through the holes you drilled through the Inner Sub Top Trim. If you don't have a pocket hole jig, you can glue the Top to the Sub Top. However, gluing it will make it much more difficult to replace the top in the future if you need to.
Note: The dimensions given in these plans are based using T-Track that is 3/4" wide and 1/2" thick. If your T-Track is a different size, you will need to modify the thickness of the inner trim accordingly.
Attach the T-Track & Miter track to the TopPage 31
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Attach the Lower Track Support to the left side of the cabinet with six 2" #8 flathead screws. Position this piece so it is 1" below the Sub Top Trim and centered front to back.
Attach the T-Track to the top as shown with 1" #6 screws. Some manufacturers countersink the holes for mounting the track and others do not. From my experience, I prefer flathead screws with countersunk holes. This keeps the screw heads from interfering with the bolts sliding through the track. The track I used for the prototype was designed for pan head screws, so I countersunk them on my drill press.
The miter guage track is not subject to much stress so you can glue it in the slot. If you use screws, be sure the screw heads are below the surface so the miter guage does not hang up on them. I would not reccommend polyurethane glues because they expand as they set up. The expanding glue would lift the miter track up above the surface of the workbench top. A construction adhesive like liquid nails works fine.
Top T-Track
Miter Guage Track
Attach the T-Track to the Edges of the Front and EndsPage 32
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Attach the edge T-Track on each end and along the front to the middle Sub Top Trim with 1" #6 screws. Position this T-Track under the bottom surface of the Top as shown in the detail drawing.
T-Track joins at the corners like this so you can slide the bolts in and out. End T-Track
Front T-Track
End T-Track
Detail
Attach the Lower T-Track to the Lower T-Track Support. The T-Track should be centered top to bottom.
Attach the Lower Front Trim to the Front and EndsPage 33
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Detail
Attach the Lower Top Trim on each end and along the front to the middle Sub Top Trim with 1 1/2" finishing nails.
If you cut the top a little larger than the dimensions called for, you can trim it with your router and a flush trimming bit. Use the Lower Top Trim for the bit bearing to follow.
The Lower Top Trim joins at the corners like this.
Lower Trim
Attach the Lower Track Trim with finishing nails.
Lower Trim
Step 2 Step 3
Left Side
Step 1
Right Side
Front
Back
Step 5Step 4
Support the drawer boxes with 1/4" thick strips of wood and attach the drawer fronts with 1 1/8" screws as shown. This is necessary because the bottom of the front must be 1/4" below the bottom of the box so it will overlap the rear cabinet trim when installed.
Apply a little glue to the mating surfaces and assemble the drawer boxes.
Assemble the front, back, and right side with finishing nails as shown in Step 1. Insert the bottom as shown in Step 2. Attach the left side as shown in Step 3.
Assemble the DrawersPage 34
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Assemble the Router Bit TraysPage 34
Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the drawer fronts to the router tray fronts with pocket hole screws on each side as shown. Don't forget to support the trays with 1/4" thick strips of wood while you attach the fronts. As with the drawers, the bottom of the fronts must be 1/4" below the bottom of the trays so the fronts will overlap the cabinet trim when installed.
Assemble the Router trays with finishing nails as shown above.
Attach the Cabinet DoorsPage 36
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Attach the cabinet doors so the tops align with the tops of the drawers and the sides align with the ends of the middle drawer as shown above.
Attach the Middle Door trimPage 37
Copyright 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, OhioC
Attach the Middle Door Lip to the back of either of the cabinet doors so half of it is visible as shown. Attach it to the back of the door with a couple of 1" wood screws. The left door is not pictured in the drawing for clarity.
This piece serves as a door lip so there is no visible gap between the doors.
Now, you're ready to attach the Drawer and Door handles and your work bench is finished.
Clamping System PartsPage 38
Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
"2
3/8" Button Hole
Clamp Jaw Layout (Side 2)
"2 3/4
5/16" Bolt Hole
3/8" Button Hole
"3 1/2
Clamp Jaw Layout (Side 1)
2"
4 1/2"
Clamp Jaws (2)
5/8"
3 1/2"
1 1/2"
2 3/4"
End
V iew3" 3"1 1/2"
Rear StopDia - 5/16"
24"
Dia - 5/16"
1 3/4"1 3/4"2"
28"
EZ Clamp Stop
Post (2)2"
2 1/2"
Drill two pocket holes in each Post as shown below. Next, drill two 1/4" diameter holes in the end of each Post as shown. (The 1/4" holes should only be 1/2" deep.) 2"
4"
Jaws (2)
1/2"
Posts
Dia - 5/16" 1/2"
3/8"
Jaws
"2 1/4
Drill a 5/16" bolt through each jaw as shown. Next, drill two 5/16" holes for the dowel pins in each Jaw as shown. (The dowel pin holes are 5/16" diameter so the Jaws can pivot over the pins. These holes should be 1/2" deep.)
Assemble the EZ Mount StopPage 39
Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Attach the Posts to the ends of the Stop Bar with pocket hole screws as shown below. Next, cut four 7/8" long dowel pins from 1/4" dowel rod. Apply some glue and insert a 1/4" dowel pin into each hole in the ends of the Posts. (The dowel pins should protude about 3/8" from the ends of the Posts.)
Place the Jaws over the protuding dowel pins as shown above. (Do not glue the dowel pins to the Jaws as the Jaws must be allowed to pivot in order to work as clamps.) Insert a 5/16 carriage bolt through the holes as shown. (The carriage bolt should be 5" long. Secure the pieces with a flat washer and knob.
Clamping System UsagePage 40
Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
The T-Track clamping system provides a flexible way of clamping both large and small work pieces. Most work pieces can be clamped using the two Clamp Jaws and the Rear Stop. The Clamp Jaws are used with the T-Track that runs along the front edge of the workbench. The Rear Stop is used with the T-Track that is embedded in the top surface of the workbench.
For longer workpieces, you can use the the Clamp Jaws with the T-Track on the ends of the workbench. The EZ Mount Stop may be secured anywhere along the workbench top. The simple clamps on each end of the EZ Mount Stop grip the edge of the workbench top as well as C-Clamps. This feature enables you to use the workbench as a large bar clamp for gluing up boards.
You can make the clamping system grip the work piece even tighter by gluing strips of 100 grit sandpaper along the edges that contact the workpiece. The sandpaper requires much less force than the surface of bare wood.
The button arrangement on the Clamp Jaws allows you to filp the Clamp Jaws over for thicker work pieces. The drawings on the next two pages illustrates how the clamps work.
To clamp a work piece, position the workpiece so the edge protudes slightly over the edge of the workbench top as shown. Then, position the Rear Stop against the workpiece and tighten it to T-Track using the knobs. Next, tighten the Clamp Jaws against the workpiece with the knobs and your work piece will be clamped just like with a vice.
For thinner workpieces, position the Clamp Jaws and Rear Stop as shown. If your workpiece is thinner than 3/4", you can place strips of wood under the work piece so it is slightly higher than the top edges of the Clamp Jaws.
For thicker workpieces, flip the Clamp Jaws so the second button is against the Lower T-Track Trim and reverse the Rear Stop so the thicker edge is against the workpiece.
Using the ClampsPage 41
Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Rear Stop
T-Track
Second Button
Button
Clamp JawWorkpiece
For thicker workpieces, flip the Clamp Jaw so the second button is against the Lower T-Track Trim and reverse the Rear Stop so the thicker edge is against the workpiece.
T-Track
Button
Second Button
Clamp JawWorkpiece
Rear Stop
For thinner workpieces, position the Clamp Jaws and Rear Stop as shown.
Clamping Long WorkpiecesPage 42
Copyright c by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
To clamp long work pieces, use the Clamping Jaws and EZ Mount Stop as shown.
SnapshotsPage 43
Clamping a small work piece Clamping a large work piece Clamping a thick work piece
Clamp a large work pieceHold down clamps.
Close up view of the Router Plate.
Clamping a work light. Arranging the jaws for use with the EZ Mount Stop.The purple edge is the 100 grit sandpaper used to make the stop grip the work piece tighter.
The biggest challenge for most of us will be cutting the large panels from full size sheets of plywood.
Large commercial shops typically use a panel saw for this purpose. However, traditional panel saws cost several hundred dollars and they take up way too much space for most home shops.
Now anyone can have a panel saw. Here is one you can make yourself from just a few common boards. In fact, you may already have enough scrap wood in your shop to make it.
This panel saw uses four simple tracks that can be mounted on saw horses as shown to the right. When finished, just store the tracks in an out of the way corner of your shop. (After you build your new workbench, you won’t even need the saw horses. Just roll the workbench out onto the floor and mount the tracks to the workbench top.)
The four identical tracks clamp to a couple of two by fours or your workbench top. The support pads, (I call them “risers” in the plans), hold the work piece above the tracks to provide the proper clearance for your saw blade.
To cut along the length of the panel, you simply place the risers so there are two rows of them on each side of the cut. This provides support for the whole panel during and after the cut. To cut across the panel, just position the tracks so two tracks are on each side of the cut. You’ll get the same accuracy and square cuts as with your table saw.
The plans show you how to make simple wooden clamps for securing the work piece to the tracks. These clamps will not mar your wood and the work pieces will be securely supported until you’re ready to move them. If you prefer not to make the wooden clamps, you can use ordinary C-Clamps instead.
I’ll also show you how to make a simple zero clearance saw guide that provides a splinter free cut - even when you’re cutting across the grain! You simply align the edge of the saw guide to your pencil marks, and your splinter-free cut will be exactly at the mark!
Well, what do you think? Are you ready to build the best workbench in town?
Not only will this panel saw make it easy to build your new workbench, it will save you lots of work and time on future projects.
Projects like cabinets, a kids play house, a storage shed, or a dog house for your best friend. Any project that requires plywood will be easier from now on.
So don’t wait. Order your Panel Saw Plans now and then get started on the best workbench in town.
Panel Saw Plans - Only $4.99Click Here
Cutting Plywood Panels.
Easy to make Panel Saw
Using the Panel Saw