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tones-of-funtongue drum

Make beautiful sounds by striking the slitted top of this six-note, easy-to-build instrument.

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In a few hours and using just a t a b l e s a w , jigsaw, and drill

press, you can build this modern version of an ancient instrument. The project—designed by craftsman and musician Steve Rob-erts of Chico, Califor-nia—uses simple butt joinery and assembles with glue only. The tone quality of each drum is unique. See the sidebar, “About tongue drums,” page 6, to learn more about them, and go to tongue-drum.com to hear what one sounds like and see video clips.

Start with the drum parts

1From a ‡"-thick hardwood free of knots, cracks, and checking, cut the top (A) to the

size listed in the Materials List. (We used padauk and red oak for the project. Other suitable woods are purpleheart, mahogany, rosewood, birch, and maple. If you wish, you can make all of the drum parts from one type of wood.)

2Photocopy the full-size top pattern from pages 7 and 8. Spray-adhere the pattern

to the top. Using a twist bit in your drill press or portable drill, drill two ›" start holes for your jigsaw through the top, where shown on the pattern and as shown in Photo A.

3To form the tongues in the top, fit your jig-saw with a blade that has 20 teeth per inch

for a smooth curve cut. Beginning at start hole #1 and following the pattern lines, cut around tongue 1, as shown in Photo B. Then cut around tongues 2 and 3, as shown in Photo C. Now switch to start hole #2, and cut tongues 6, 5, and 4 in the same way.

4From ‡"-thick, defect-free stock, cut the ends (B), bottom (C), sides (D), large glue

blocks (E), and small glue block (F) to the sizes listed.

With the top (A) on a backer board to prevent tear-out, drill two ›" start holes for your jigsaw through the top, where shown on the pattern.

From start hole 1, jigsaw along the round end and outside of tongue 1. Then, from the round end, cut along the inside of the tongue.

Outside of tongue 1

A Bdrill start holes in the top jigsaw tongue 1 to shape

After jigsawing tongue 1 to shape, cut around the top and along the inside of tongue 2. Then cut around tongue 3.

Inside of tongue 2

Tongue 3

C

now jigsaw tongues 2 and 3

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Pine Walnut Oak

MDF Hardboard

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FILENAME:MusicDrumCD_#100205572.epsDate: 5-06Lorna J.

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‡ x 7‹ x 24" Padauk (1.3 bd. ft.)

‡ x 7‹ x 60" Oak (3.3 bd. ft.)

‹"-diam. Oak dowel 36" long

Cutting Diagram

D

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Materials ListFINISHED SIZE

Part T W L Matl. Qty.

A top ‡" 6" 12" P 1

B ends ‡" 6" 5‹" O 2

C bottom ‡" 6" 10fi" O 1

D sides ‡" 6" 12" O 2

E large glue blocks ‡" 6" 4fi" O 2

F small glue block ‡" 6" 1" O 1

*G handles ‡" 1" 8‡" P 2

*H feet ‡" ‡" 2¤" P 8

I mallet handles ‹" diam. 12fi" OD 2

*Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.Materials key: P–padauk, O–red oak, OD–oak dowel.Supplies: Spray adhesive; double-faced tape; paraffin wax; 1"-diameter medium-hard rubber balls (2), available at toy, hobby, and crafts supply stores; rubber cement;self-adhesive rubber bumpers (4).Blades and bits: Jigsaw blade with 20 teeth per inch,dado-blade set, ‡" Forstner and ‹" brad-point bits.

Cutting Diagram

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Now assemble the drum

1Glue and clamp the ends (B) to the bottom (C), where shown on Drawing 1, keeping the edges flush. To prevent loss of

resonance, make sure you clamp all of the drum parts tightly together. After the glue dries, glue and clamp a side (D) in place against the ends and bottom.

2To complete the assembly, glue and clamp the large glue blocks (E) and small glue block (F) to the ends (B), bottom

(C), and side (D), where shown. Next, glue and clamp the top (A) in place. Then glue and clamp the remaining side (D) in position, as shown in Photo D.

Add handles and feet

1From ‡"-thick stock, cut a 7‹×8‡" blank to form the handles (G) and feet (H). Rip two 1"-wide pieces for the handles and four

‡"-wide pieces for the feet from the blank. (You’ll get two feet from each piece.)

2Cut a ˇ" groove ˇ" deep, centered, along an edge of each handle (G), where shown on Drawing 1, to receive the

mallet handles (I) for storage.

3Miter-cut a fi" chamfer on each end of the handles (G) and the four blanks for the feet (H), where shown. Then miter-cut

a 2¤"-long foot from each end of the blanks, flipping the blanks end to end between cuts to ensure correct orientation of the mitered ends for each pair of feet. Sand the handles to 220 grit.

4To attach the handles (G) to the drum, cut a 1fi×12" spacer from ‹" hardboard. Draw lines across the spacer 1fl" from

both ends on one face. Position the drum on a flat surface with the bottom (C) up. Using the spacer, glue and clamp a handle to a side (D), as shown in Photo E. Repeat to glue the remaining handle to the other side.

5Glue together four pairs of feet (H) in the configuration shown on Drawing 1. (We wrapped masking tape around

each pair of feet to keep the mitered corner tight until the glue dried.)

Using the spacer to position a handle (G), glue and clamp the handle to a side (D) with the handle ends aligned with the spacer lines.

With the chamfered ends down, glue and clamp the feet (H) to the bottom of the drum, tight against the spacers at the corners.

DBottom C

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2"-tall spacers

E F

mount the feetadd the handles

G

Chamfered endof foot down

Apply glue to the exposed edges of the drum, and clamp the remaining side (D) in place to complete the assembly.

A

C

F

B

DB

Dcomplete the drum assemblY

E

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6To mount the feet to the drum with a fl" overhang, where dimensioned on Drawing 1a, cut four ‡"-square spacers from ‹" hardboard. Rub the edges

of the spacers with paraffin wax to prevent glue squeeze-out from sticking. Using double-faced tape, adhere a spacer at each corner of the drum on the bottom, flush with the edges. Sand the feet smooth. Then, with the drum placed on 2"-tall spacers to provide clamp clearance, glue the feet to the drum, as shown in Photo F.

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Produced by Marlen Kemmet Written by Owen Duvall Project design: Steve Roberts Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoineGraphic design: Lorna Johnson

The purchase of these plans does not transfer any copyright or other ownership interest in the plans, the design, or the finished project to the buyer. Buyer may neither reproduce the plans for sale nor offer for sale any copies of the finished project.

Page 6 of 8

With each rubber ball positioned in a ‡" hole in scrap and held with a clamp, drill a ‹" hole fi" deep in the ball.

Using sandpaper folded into thirds, sand the kerfs and openings between the tongues, progressing from 120 to 150 and 180 grit.

‹" brad-point bit

1"-diameter rubber ball

G Hdrill the rubber balls sand the tongues

Time for the mallets

1From a ‹"-diameter oak dowel 36" long, cut two 12fi"-long pieces for the mallet

handles (I).

2 To drill centered holes in 1"-diameter rubber balls for mounting on the ends of

the mallet handles (I), where shown on Drawing 1, chuck a ‡" Forstner bit in your drill press. Clamp a piece of ‡" scrap to the table, and bore a hole through the scrap to position each ball for drilling. Rechuck with a ‹" brad-point bit. Then, holding each ball in the ‡" hole, drill a fi"-deep hole in the ball, as shown in Photo G. Use medium-hard rubber balls, such as SuperBalls®, available at your local toy, hobby, or crafts supply store. Now glue the balls to the mallet han-dles with rubber cement.

Finish up

1Scrape off any glue squeeze-out. Then fin-ish-sand the drum to 220 grit, removing any

sharp edges.

2To remove splinters that can inhibit free movement of the tongues and to create clean

edges for the best appearance, sand the saw kerfs and openings between the tongues, as shown in Photo H.

3Finally, remove the dust. Then apply three coats of a clear finish. (We applied satin

polyurethane, sanding to 220 grit between coats.) To prevent slippage of the drum and adjacent surfaces from vibrating, install self-adhesive rubber bumpers on the feet (H), where shown on Drawing 1. Now grab your mallets, and check out the drum’s amazing sounds. ¿

About tongue drumsTongue drums—also known as slit, log, and xylo drums—have been used in African, Asian, and North and South American cultures for hundreds of years for communication, ceremonial, and other purposes. Though originally made from a hollowed-out log with a narrow opening (slit) in the top or side, modern tongue drums consist of a wood enclo-sure with a slitted top, typically having from 4 to 14 tongues. When struck, a tongue vibrates, and the tone that’s produced resonates in the enclosure. The tone quality and frequency depend on the length, width, and thickness of the tongue, the density of the wood, and the size of the enclosure.

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Cutlines

6"

12"

BLocation of part

›" start hole #1

›" start hole #2Waste

Join patternshere.

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BLocation of part

Location of part

Location of part TOPFULL-SIZE PATTERN

Tongue 1 Tongue 2 Tongue 3 Tongue 4 Tongue 5 Tongue 6

E

Join patternshere.

A

TOPFULL-SIZEPATTERN

To ensure full-size patterns are correctsize, your printer should be set to printat 100% (not fit to page). Measurefull-size patterns to verify size.

1"‹

fi‡

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