who's hungry? magazine | late summer 2013 | no 8
DESCRIPTION
Blending the worlds of food and photography, the magazine features travel stories and recipes from top food writers, as well as styling tips, interviews, and of course, stunning images by Stephen HamiltonTRANSCRIPT
l a t e s u m m e r 2 0 1 3 N O 0 08
2
FEATURES
2 C O N T E N T S
22 High Spirits: Fine & Shandy 24
38
12
In Season:Sweet Shades of Gold
Weather Permitting:Bright Green
The Makingof Ina’s Cookbook
06 Top 5: Summer Classics 20 Portrait of a Chef:Justin Brunson
3
4 Contributors
5 Letter from Steve
6 Top 5: Summer Classics
12 Ina’s Cookbook
20 Portrait of a Chef
22 High Spirits
24 In Season: Sweet Shades of Gold
38 Bright Green
48 The Art of the Ice Cube
50 A Day in the Life
62 Hidden Gems: Hot Doug’s
64 Bison is Back
76 Food Porn Continued
82 How We Did It
84 Recipe Index
CONTENTS
CONTACTSmedia inquiriesJudith Mara | [email protected]
Deirdre O’Shea | [email protected]
sponsorship opportunitiesDeirdre O’Shea | [email protected]
representationSchumann & Company | www.schumannco.com
[email protected] | 312.432.1702
stephen hamilton 1520 W. Fulton | Chicago, IL 60607
www.stephenhamilton.com
N O 0 08
3C O N T E N T S
48 The Art of the Ice Cube
76 Food Porn Continued
82 How We Did It
62 Hidden Gems:Hot Doug’s
50
64
A Day in the Life
Bison is Back
4
inga witscher | Dairy Farmer and Host of Around The Farm Table
As a fourth generation dairy farmer, Inga isn’t afraid
to get her hands dirty. Tending cattle, plucking
vegetables from the garden, baking bread, and
making cheese: Inga does it all, and makes it all look easy. Her new PBS
series, Around the Farm Table, focuses on the work of local farmers, seasonal
ingredients and what to do with them. For Who’s Hungry?™ magazine, Inga
shares her daily adventures from a bustling farm, where the sound of cows
in the morning is the only alarm clock she needs.
C O N T R I B U T O R S
judith mara | Editor and Writer
Judith has worked with Stephen for almost
seven years and helps to lead the editorial concept
and execution of Who’s Hungry?™ magazine. An
award-winning former creative director for major
ad agencies such as Leo Burnett and J. Walter
Thompson, Judith sweats the details, pens Weather Permitting and
literally hand writes How We Did It.
ian law | Design
Ian designed every aspect of Who’s Hungry?™
magazine with meticulous attention to detail and
typography, and helped turn static images into an
interactive experience. His award-winning design
work has been featured in the pages of Print,
Creativity, How, PDN and Graphic Design USA.
dannielle kyrillos | Writer and Television Commentator
A series judge on Bravo’s Top Chef Just Desserts,
Dannielle is an expert on stylish entertaining, food,
fashion, and travel. She appears regularly on NBC’s
Today and The Nate Berkus Show, as well as on E!
News, BetterTV, CNBC, CNN, and local morning programming in New York
and Philadelphia. For Who’s Hungry?™ magazine, Dannielle scouts out the
season’s summer classics.
ina pinkney | Chef and Owner of INA’S
Ina has been satisfying Chicago’s appetite since
1991, when she founded her namesake restaurant
and turned it into one of the city’s most beloved
breakfast spots. A frequent guest on local news and
cable TV, the acclaimed chef has also been featured in publications such as
The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, Gourmet, Vogue, and many more. For
Who’s Hungry?™ magazine, Ina opens her kitchen doors and lets us peak
into the process behind her upcoming cookbook—an exciting collaboration
with Stephen Hamilton.
c o n t r i b u t o r s N O 0 0 8
deirdre o’shea | Production Director
If you have worked with Stephen Hamilton,
you’ve worked with Deirdre. Drawing on 15 years
of experience in managing photography studios,
Deirdre has a hand in nearly every aspect of
Stephen’s business. She’s been instrumental in
organizing the magazine’s shoots, sourcing ingredients, and always keeping
production on schedule.
kathryn o’malley | Editor and Writer
Kathryn’s love of food is matched only by her
passion for writing about it; as part of the Who’s
Hungry?™ editorial team, she indulges in a bit of
both. Her popular food blog, dramaticpancake.com,
garners more than 40,000 unique viewers per month
and highlights the people and stories behind great recipes.
heather sperling | Chicago Editor of Tasting Table and Co-founder of Fête
Heather is the Chicago editor of Tasting Table, a
free daily email publication about the country’s
best food, drink, chefs and more. A co-founder of
Fête (a pop-up night market and cultural festival
celebrating the finest in Chicago’s food and design) and food editor of The
Chicagoan, her work has appeared in Plate magazine, TheAtlantic.com, and Planet
Green. For Who’s Hungry?™ magazine, Heather explores some of the best—
and most colorful—drinks of the season.
bryan olsen | Writer and Performer
Bryan Olsen is a writer and performer for Barely
Political’s “The Key of Awesome.” Additionally, he
wrote for Comedy Central’s Roast of David Hasselhoff,
and sold a screenplay to Paramount Pictures and
Ivan Reitman. As an actor, Mr. Olsen has appeared
on several episodes of Comedy Central’s Chappelle’s Show. For Who’s Hungry?™
magazine, Bryan gets dirty with some tantalizing food porn.
todd womack | Comedian and Writer
Todd Womack is a Brooklyn-based comedian who
has been a writer/performer on the gigantic YouTube
series The Key of Awesome, since 2010. The series has
over 1 billion views to date, and can be found on the
YouTube channel “Barely Political.” His credits include
Good Morning America, 20/20, Chappelle’s Show; and appearances on Bravo, VH-1,
TNT, and in Esquire magazine. For Who’s Hungry?™ magazine, Todd gets dirty
with some tantalizing food porn.
5L E T T E R F R O M S T E V E | P O R T R A I T S B Y A N D R E W B U R K L E
a special thanks to: Geovanna Salas, Sarah Kosokowski, Meg Galus, CeCe Campise, Art Smith, Justin Brunson, Joe Ricketts, Ruth Siegel,
Nate Summer, Jen Straus, Doug Sohn, Jackie Doran, Raymond Barrera, Justin Paris, Josephine Orba, Vanessa Dubiel, Geoff Binns-Calvey, Sara Cruz,
Melissa Schwister, Tom Hamilton, Juan Palomino, Paula Walters, Kaitlyn McQuaid, Bryan Olsen, Todd Womack, Seana Monahan,and Fausto Jara,
Hans early-Nelson (Primitive Precision)
I have the best job on earth. And it just keeps getting
more interesting and exciting every year. Pushing the
boundaries of food photography is a thrilling challenge.
And that is what’s important about this issue––capturing
food related “experiences” to bring an increased dimension
to our stories.
LETTER FROM STEVE
Food doesn’t spend its life sitting on
a plate. At some point it was growing,
blooming, mooing, clucking, snorting,
buzzing or whatever comes naturally.
That’s a fascinating connection I
continually appreciate.
Which is what brought my crew and I
to Joe Ricketts’ Double T Bison Ranch in
Wyoming. In “Bison is Back” we visit this
great American animal and explore why
bison is finding its rightful place––once
again––on our tables.
We’ve wanted to do a story on honeybees
for a while, but had to wait for the right
season. In “Sweet Shades of Gold” I get
up close and personal to thousands
of honeybees at Heritage Prairie Farm
in Illinois. And top pastry chefs share
creative dessert recipes from Honey
Ganache to Honey Nougatine.
At St. Isidore’s Mead Dairy Farm in
Wisconsin we get a first person glimpse
of the routine of a sustainable dairy farm
in “A Day in the Life”. The dairy herd
was sweet, gentle and very cooperative
considering that dawn was just breaking
over the pastures. I couldn’t wait to taste
Hannah, Jenny and Mae’s fresh milk in my
coffee at breakfast. Who’s Hungry?™
STEPHEN HAMILTON
T O P 5 : S U M M E R C L A S S I C S
To us Americans, a campfire in summer
probably means grilled meats and
toasted marshmallows. Our Spanish
friends see it a bit differently: The
quintessential summer experience
involving an open fire is friends
gathered around a giant paella pan,
simmering a lusty broth and rice
and seafood and vegetables, all of it
infused with the smoke of whatever
wood is fueling the fire. A close indoor
PaellaJALEO
480 7TH ST., NW
WASHINGTON, DC 20004
202.628.7949
WWW.JALEO.COM
Dannielle Kyrillos, a series judge
on Bravo’s Top Chef Just Desserts
and expert on all things food
and entertaining, shares her five
favorite Summer Classics from
around the country.
Portrait by Peter Hurley
6
TOP 5approximation of this fiery camaraderie
is to be had at Jaleo, Spanish national
treasure Jose Andres’s tapas spot. You
can be sure the chef once questioned
by the FBI for importing a paella pan so
big it looked like a satellite, and who as
a boy yearned for his father to let him
tend the paella fire (it’s a very manly
job), captures the essence of Spanish
summer: intoxicating herbs and spices,
rich shrimp flavors and rice-just-so.
1
7
b y D A N N I E L L E K Y R I L L O S
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
Summer ClassicsTOP 5
2 Tacos Pescados (Fish Tacos) LA CONDESA
400A WEST 2ND ST.
AUSTIN, TX 78701
512.499.0300
WWW.LACONDESA.COM/AUSTIN
Texans have the recipe for staying happy in the heat down pat: tequila,
cocktails and tacos. It’s a recipe perfect in its simplicity, and at Austin’s
La Condesa, chef Rene Ortiz and Food & Wine’s Best New Pastry Chef
Laura Sawicki elevate it by using majestically fresh ingredients and
layering flavors and textures like modern Mexican wizards. La Condesa
is in super-hip Austin’s hippest district, and eating there makes you
feel cool by association, but everything about the place feels genuine
and real. The griddled Texas redfish tacos, crunchy with green cabbage,
punchy with chipotle aioli and pico de gallo, and nestled in crispy,
corn-y tortillas, are miniature masterpieces—summer in three bites.
8 T O P 5 : S U M M E R C L A S S I C S
9P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
When Summer picked a mascot, Lobster won,
hands—er, claws—down. And while that kooky
crustacean most often appears in summer casual
garb, just thrown on a buttery roll, he embodies
the finest summer splendor when dressed to
the nines in Clark Frasier and Marc Gaier’s
elegant and exotic lobster shortcake at Arrows
Restaurant. The James Beard Best Chefs of the
Northeast have been pioneers of sustainable
sourcing and cooking, enveloping diners in the
Lobster ShortcakeARROWS RESTAURANT
BERWICK ROAD, PO BOX 803
OGUNQUIT, ME 03907
207.361.1100
WWW.ARROWSRESTAURANT.COM
rugged goodness that is Maine for more than
twenty years. “The…lobster…comes from the
chilly, rough seas right nearby, brought to us
by the people who caught it…” the chefs have
explained. Gaier and Frasier are true to the old
New England ways and the purest ingredients
while adding their own Southeast Asian-inspired
tweaks, giving lobster the tastiest summer
costume imaginable.
3
View recipe on page 84 »
lobster shortcake
10
Famed chef Sam Mason has partnered with
husband-and-wife team Mohan and Holiday
Kumar to craft what might be the most
outrageously addictive, ridiculously creamy,
perfectly savory version of the most classic
summer dish of all: ice cream. Licking a cone of
ice cream slowly enough to savor it but quickly
enough so it doesn’t melt is the ultimate and
often only way to cool off in summer in the city,
and the gang’s new Brooklyn shop captures the
childlike wonder we all feel with a cone in hand
with scrumptious sophistication. Using locally
sourced milk from Battenkill Valley Creamery
in flavors such as blueberry buttermilk, toasted
almond coffee bean and manchego pineapple,
Mason crafts irresistible combinations that are
silky, pure and unforgettable. OddFellows also
serves milkshakes, craft sodas and sorbets.
Ice Cream ConesODDFELLOWS ICE CREAM CO.
175 KENT AVE.
BROOKLYN, NY 11249
347.599.0556
WWW.ODDFELLOWSNYC.COM
T O P 5 : S U M M E R C L A S S I C S
4
11
Blueberry CrostataHUCKLEBERRY
1014 WILSHIRE BLVD.
SANTA MONICA, CA 90401
310.451.2311
WWW.HUCKLEBERRYCAFE.COM
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
There are those hazy, lazy beach days etched
into our memories like old movies, with the
light so perfect and the salty waves so frisky
and the wind so gentle that they could only take
place in Southern California. And along with the
seagull soundtrack and golden hue is the distinct
sensation of breaking apart and biting into a
crumbly, juicy peach or berry crostata you picked
up that morning at Huckleberry in Santa Monica.
Cruising by the sweet little café (part of chef-baker
Zoe Nathan and her husband Josh Loeb’s growing
empire of beautiful rusticity) and selecting pastries
and sandwiches bursting with farmer’s market
produce is as much a part of the ritual as the
ocean swim. It’s almost as if the crostata’s recipe
includes the luscious fruit dribbling onto your skin
and mixing with the saltwater dried on your chin.
5
12 T H E M A K I N G O F I N A’ S C O O K B O O K12
View recipe on page 86 »
heavenly hots
13
They’re everywhere. In every
room. On my counter. On my
nightstand. Overflowing my
bookcases. COOKBOOKS!
I read them like novels,
because, in a sense, they
are. The time, effort and
expertise that produces each
one is to be honored...revered.
13
Writing a cookbook was always on
my mind but seemed too daunting a
task when running a restaurant and
not having an office staff to help. But
that all changed when Steve Hamilton
encouraged me to think about it and
promised to take the photographs.
It was that magnificent offer that
propelled me to start writing down
the stories I wanted to share to go
along with the recipes.
THE MAKING OF
ina’s Cookbook
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
14 T H E M A K I N G O F I N A’ S C O O K B O O K
When Steve showed up at Ina’s with a
carful of equipment and the best staff in
the food photography business to set up
shop upstairs, my terrific kitchen crew
went into high gear to produce all the
food you’ve come to expect and love.
15P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
Steve’s Note: Our plan was to shoot a
single dessert straight on, as shown at the
top of this page. But when I saw how great
the ramekins looked when they came out of
the kitchen, I shot all four of them from a
straight-down angle, then three (pictured),
then two, then one.
To keep up the pace of shooting a cookbook,
we built two side-by-side sets. One straight
down and another 3/4-angle “beauty” set.
This allowed us to be shooting on one set
while setting up for another shot on the other
set. (Check out Raymond’s set diagram.)
View recipe on page 87 »
crisp topping
16 T H E M A K I N G O F I N A’ S C O O K B O O K
Does it matter that sometimes a recipe
doesn’t work? Or that the print is too
small to read? Or that the photographs are
bunched up and nowhere near the recipe?
You bet it does!
Steve’s Note: There is always collaboration
between a client and myself. Here, I am
discussing a test shot with Ina before we
shoot the final shot.
View recipe on page 88 »
ina’s vegetable hash
17P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
View recipe on page 89 »
ina’s award-winning fried chicken
18 T H E M A K I N G O F I N A’ S C O O K B O O K
View recipe on page 90 »
gingerbread pancakes
19PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON
The images created reminded us that we do
serve delicious and beautiful food every day and
now we’ll be able to share it with all of you.
This book will be my love letter to everyone I’ve
fed and to all of you who make breakfast.
Steve’s Note: Collaboration of the
crew is important as well. It takes
an entire team to accomplish a great
shot. It’s not only about lighting,
props, angles, etc.; it’s about
directing all of these talents.
The gingerbread pancakes look like
they are being eaten. After I shot
the whole pancakes, I took a fork
and dipped it in whipped cream and
removed a piece as if a bite was
taken. Then I repeated removing
bites until I got the look I wanted.
We shot it that way, then added the
syrup for the final shot.
20
P O R T R A I T O F A
CHEFb y K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y
Justin Brunson’s
20 P O R T R A I T O F A C H E F : J U S T I N B R U N S O N
2121
honey, what began your love affair with pigs? I think back when I was a child and remember the cool time in the
fall and spending time with my grandparents, and it seems like they
were always preparing for winter. But thats is when I remember
my first love affair with that sweet smell of pork chops cooking in
my grandmother’s cast iron skillet, in the fat rendered from that
morning’s bacon. So that’s what started it, I’m sure, but learning
about cooking and how one animal can be used for so many
different things is what pushed me over the edge to be such
a pork fan.
name three adjectives that define your cuisine.Traditional, whimsical, delectable.
diners are taking a special interest in nose-to-tail eating right now. why do you think that is?I think people are really into where their food is coming from right
now, and the idea of nose-to-tail starts with farming, I think. I
don’t know any guys doing this that don’t know their farmers
directly. It’s also the most responsible way to bring product into the
restaurant— my pigs are raised about an hour and twenty minutes
away from the restaurant and live on a great diet of grasses, grains
and vegetables. They live a good life and have a proper death,
which is the most important part of an animal’s life. Also, using the
whole animal, not wasting any of it is important to people who are
conscious of what they feed themselves.
what would you say is unique about the denver culinary scene?Denver is a culinarily young town that is just getting ready to take
off and put itself on the map. We have many great young chefs
and this great pride of localness here. The farmers and chefs are
working together now and we all know that will make a brighter
future for the food scene here. One thing that makes us unique here
is that we get along for the most part—not too many haters here
which makes for some great events together.
any new projects in the works? what can we look forward to in the future?Well, in October my team and I will be opening another Masterpiece
Delicatessen in the Uptown neighborhood here in Denver so the
sandwich lovers on the other side of town will be satisfied.
I also have several other concepts I would love to do, including a
fried chicken shack because Denver deserves my grandmother’s
fried chicken.
what do you like to do when you’re off-duty? any trashy television we should know about?Day off? What’s that? I have 3 businesses! But on the chance I get
one, I like to get up to the mountains and fly fish whenever possible.
Hopefully there will be more of that time off stuff in the future.
And as far as trashy TV, Breaking Bad in my mind is the best tv show
ever written.
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
Justin Brunson has a penchant for pork.
At his popular Denver eatery, Old Major,
two or three humanely raised hogs are
butchered in house every Wednesday,
and then ground, cured, seasoned, cooked
and incorporated into dishes across the
menu. Fancy ingredients abound (think
fois gras and Lillet gelée), but the restaurant
maintains a down-to-earth charm that
keeps the place cozy.
For a more casual—but just as enticing—option, head a few blocks over
to Masterpiece Delicatessen, Brunson’s highly acclaimed deli with a
second outpost set to launch this fall. Sandwiches here are built with
superior skill and exceptional ingredients, from twelve-hour braised
brisket to white truffle egg salad. Dry-cured, peachwood-smoked maple
bacon from Brunson’s own Denver Bacon Company can be purchased at
the counter and and will soon be available online.
Ready to pig out? Dig into our interview with Chef Brunson, led by the
King of Comfort Food and our previously featured chef, Art Smith.
View recipe on page 91»
tasso ham
Brunson’s perfectly seasoned Tasso Ham takes the humble
sandwich from ordinary to extraordinary.
2222 H I G H S P I R I T S : F I N E & S H A N DY
View recipe on page 92 »
tamarind shandy HIGH SPIRITS
b y
H E AT H E R S P E R L I N G
FINE &SHANDY
2323P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
Many will argue that it’s hard to top the satisfaction of an ice-cold beer on a sweltering summer day.
That hasn’t stopped bartenders from
trying. Beer-based cocktails are in
season, spurring creativity and slaking
thirst across the country.
The most familiar forms are the
Michelada, based on the trinity of hot
sauce, lime and beer, and the Shandy,
classically a combination of beer
and lemonade. These templates have
inspired legions of clever riffs, from a
Roman Michelada at San Francisco’s
Locanda (Campari, lime juice, Italian
beer) to an Eastern Shore Shandy at Wit
& Wisdom in Baltimore, where pilsner
is spiked with lemon juice, vodka and
Old Bay simple syrup.
At the new Uncle Boon’s in New York, fiery
Thai dishes demand a cool, refreshing
counterpoint. Enter the Tamarind Shandy,
a refreshing, sophisticated drink that’s
designed to battle heat, both on the plate
and in the air. “In Thailand, you’re drinking
beer,” says Thai-born chef and owner Ann
Redding, whose Nolita restaurant matches
traditionalism with gentle innovation, with
exciting, unusual results. “We sat down
with a bunch of Thai ingredients, and this
is what happened.”
Tamarind, lime and palm sugar lend
flavor to the drink. They’re ingredients
essential to traditional pad Thai,
and to Uncle Boon’s version of mee
krob, crispy noodles in tamarind
sauce, there embellished with fried
sweetbreads. Tamarind-palm sugar
syrup and lime juice are topped with
beer—currently Goose Island’s Sofie
saison—and a hearty dose of house-
made pomelo bitters, made with the
fruit’s juice and rind.
Use any citrus bitters when making
this drink at home—and do make
it at home. Complex, gently sweet
and superbly refreshing, it’s a
simple showstopper at a summer
cookout, as comfortable next to a
chile-and fish-sauce-laden salad
as a beer-can chicken or smoky,
low-and-slow barbecue.
It’s summer satisfaction, improved.
24
IN SEASON
SWEET SHADES
OF GOLD
My mom’s brother was an accountant by day and a mad scientist
by night. He and his son conducted chemistry experiments as
entertainment, and their small Oklahoma garage doubled as a sewing
room for my uncle’s most prized invention, a ventilated beekeeping
suit. He was relentlessly curious and endearingly quirky, and after
years of backyard beekeeping, he created and marketed the kind of bee
suit he himself wanted to wear: one that was durable, protective, and
breathable—even at the height of an Oklahoma summer.
When my uncle passed away unexpectedly,
my mother took over the bee suit business
and has been running it ever since. Thanks to
a gift from my uncle, I also grew up sharing a
backyard with some 30,000 Italian bees. And
though the yellow-streaked stunners have
been circling my family for a while now, it
wasn’t until I set out to write about them that
B Y K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y
I realized how little I knew of their secret,
mysterious lives—and the remarkable
effort involved in creating just a single
spoonful of honey.
Stock your pantry with different varieties,
and let the following recipes help guide you
to your favorites.
I N S E A S O N : S W E E T S H A D E S O F G O L D
25P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
26 I N S E A S O N : S W E E T S H A D E S O F G O L D
27
HUMBLE WORKERS
Bees work hard. Really hard. To make just
one pound of honey, bees must visit some
2 million flowers. We depend on them for
one of our favorite sweeteners, but they are
also responsible for over $16 billion worth of
agricultural product through pollination. Our
supermarkets would look much different had
honeybees not appeared on the scene more
than 100 million years ago.
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
28 I N S E A S O N : S W E E T S H A D E S O F G O L D
29P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
Raw comb honey, courtesy of Heritage Prairie Farm in Elburn, Illinois
A forager honeybee stores nectar in a special
region of its gut called a crop. When fully
loaded, the bee returns to the hive and
transfers the nectar to the aptly named
receiver bees that are waiting on the front
porch for delivery. The receiver bees take the
nectar, now mixed with enzymes from the
forager’s special stomach, to the honeycomb,
where they complete the process of
transforming nectar to honey.
FROM
NECTAR
TO
HONEY
30 I N S E A S O N : S W E E T S H A D E S O F G O L D
31P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
View recipe on page 93 »
honey nougatine by geovanna salas
I N S E A S O N : S W E E T S H A D E S O F G O L D
View recipe on page 94 »
milk honey pudding by meg galus
32
33P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
It’s easy to forget that honey is a seasonal
food since it lasts indefinitely. But honey is
entirely dependent on local climate and the
nectar of blossoming flowers, which influence
the color, flavor and aroma of honey much like
the sea shapes an oyster or a barrel impacts
wine. As a general rule of thumb, light honeys
are faintly sweet (clover), amber honeys are
richly mellow (blueberry), and dark honeys
are bold and robust (buckwheat).
A Seasonal
TREAT
34 I N S E A S O N : S W E E T S H A D E S O F G O L D
View recipe on page 95 »
honey mandeleines by sarah kosokowski
35P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
View recipe on page 96 »
honey vanilla ice cream by sarah kosokowski
View recipe on page 97 »
milk chocolate honey ganache by sarah kosokowski
One of the simplest and easiest ways to
enjoy honey is on its own—scooped up
by the spoonful—or stirred into a hot cup
of tea. The sweet, molten gold can also
be spread over buttered toast, drizzled
atop oatmeal and baked into breads. Or it
can be used to more decadent effect, as
evidenced in these desserts.
endless
applications
36 I N S E A S O N : S W E E T S H A D E S O F G O L D
37P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
3838 B R I G H T G R E E N
39
Bright Green
mint
b y J U D I T H M A R A
Almost everywhere, farmer’s markets are sporting tables piled
with basil, mint, thyme, arugula, rosemary, parsley and many
other types of fresh culinary herbs. Nothing smells as heavenly
and few edibles pack a bigger punch of raw flavor.
39
There is hardly a cuisine in the world
that doesn’t use fresh herbs to brighten
the flavors of a dish. For many, herbs are
used in traditional dishes without much
thought as to why. It’s just been done that
way for hundreds of years. This is because
many herbs have become indigenous to
certain climates and soils.
But with the popularity of diverse ethnic
cuisines in this country, a great variety of
culinary herbs are available to everyone,
everywhere. Many farmers we’ve spoken to
say that people ask them all the time about
how to use, store, cut and grow herbs.
Maybe we can help.
WEATHER PERMITTING
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
40 B R I G H T G R E E N
View recipe on page 98 »
roasted potatoes with rosemary & sage
41P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
A dozen things you may or may not know about culinary herb s
arugula, fennel, chicory and hops are herbsMany people don’t know that some of our
common greens are actually herbs. This is
important because it opens your mind to
thinking of herbs in a broader way. Arugula
and fennel can both be made into center-of-
the-plate dishes rather than being relegated
to the side as a garnish. Both also make
great pesto sauces to toss with pasta or use
as a pizza topping. And what would beer
taste like without the bitter slap of hops?
herbs aren’t savory or sweetYou often hear people describe herbs as
sweet, savory or spicy. But herbs are flavor
neutral. Herbs do not contain sugar. Nor do
they contain sodium. Their flavor comes
from oils. So don’t be hesitant to use herbs
with fruit, in desserts or in baking. Or to use
herbs like mint in savory dishes. You’ll be
delighted with how flexible herbs are in
the kitchen.
many herb stems are great for cookingThe leaves of herbs such as cilantro, parsley
and dill weed are too fragile to cook for long
periods of time. But their hardier stems pack
a lot of flavor and can be cooked for hours in
a broth, bouquet garni, braise or with beans.
You can also use whole stems of thyme and
fennel in the same way. Rosemary, mint
and tarragon stems are woody and are
better thrown onto the fire of a hot grill
for extra flavor.
sagerosemary
42 B R I G H T G R E E N
if i buy basil on wednesday will it still be fresh on saturday?More than likely the answer to that question is yes, if
you store herbs properly. The easiest way to store them
is to wrap them in a barely damp paper towel and put
them in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. Then wash them
and pat them dry just before using. It’s also trendy now
to store basil upright (like a bunch of flowers) in a glass
with an inch or two of water, cover with a plastic bag and
put in the refrigerator.
the best way to store fresh herbs is to grow them yourselfThat’s right, the best way to keep fresh herbs
longer is to grow them yourself. Which is
pretty easy because most pests don’t like
herbs and you don’t need to fertilize them.
It’s best to buy herb plants from a local farmer
because you know they will grow in your area.
Also, they shouldn’t be overwatered but never
let the roots dry out, especially rosemary. And
always pinch off any flowers the minute you
see them.
basil
43P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
don’t buy culinary herbs with flowers (basil, oregano, sage, parsley, cilantro, thyme, mint, tarragon)Once an herb plant starts to flower it puts
all its effort into flowering, decreasing the
flavor in the leaves. So never buy herbs
with flowers on them unless you’re going
to make tea with the blossoms. If that is
that is the only plant available, then taste a
leaf to make sure it still has lots of flavor.
it’s not hard to learn the difference between herbsIdentifying the look or taste of various herbs
seems to puzzle many cooks, but this is
easy to fix. Next time you’re at the farmer’s
market, pull a small piece of leaf off an herb
and taste it. (You may want to ask if you can
do this.) If you do this often enough, you’ll
quickly become familiar with herbs.
Never buy herb s with flowers on them
thyme
marjorum
44 B R I G H T G R E E N
cilantro is mexican. basil is italian.That’s not the whole truth. We know many
Italian chefs that cook with thyme and
sage as much or more than basil. Cilantro,
the most widely used herb in the world, is
predominantly used in Asian cooking. Basil
is also a popular herb used in Asian cooking
and mint is used in almost every cuisine.
We make this point to encourage cooks to
be open to a broader understanding of how
to use these magic morsels when cooking.
The famous Italian fish dish, branzino,
wouldn’t be same without fresh thyme.
Green curry without basil is unthinkable.
mix them upWe wish more farmers would sell mixed
bouquets of herbs that you could just chop
up and add to a potato or bean salad or
sprinkle over a filet or bruschetta. Until they
do, mix up your own bouquets from leftover
herbs. Start with flat leaf parsley and add
basil, chives, oregano, dill, thyme and/or
tarragon in any quantity and chop together.
For a topping, add a little olive oil.
chop them up. throw them in. but when?Fresh herb leaves range from sturdy
(rosemary, thyme, sage, fresh bay) to soft
(basil, cilantro, chervil, tarragon, sorrel) to
somewhere in-between (oregano, chives,
parsley, marjoram). A rule of thumb is
that sturdier herbs can take a little heat.
Soft herbs are always added at the end of
cooking. If not, the flavor will just melt away.
parsley
oregano
45P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 45
View recipe on page 99 »
farm market vegetable cheese tart
46 B R I G H T G R E E N46
herbs are edible garnishesWe use a lot of fresh herbs for garnish
in our photography. They lend freshness
to a photograph. But we never garnish a
dish without considering if the herb(s)
we select will also add fresh flavor to the
dish in real life. Gone are the days of the
tasteless curly parsley garnishes. To stay
are the days of making everything you
put in and on a dish matter.
47P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 47
cut, rock and rollWe find vegetable cleavers are the best
tool for a home cook to chop herbs.
Their long straight edge gives a clean
cut to herbs with minimal bruising. If
you don’t have a cleaver, use a sharp
View recipe on page 100 »
herb stuffed tomatoes
chef’s knife and cut by pressing down
and rocking forward in one motion.
We also recommend cutting on a wood
board as opposed to plastic, as the
blade can push deeper into wood and
make a cleaner cut.
The last word on cutting is how to cut
basil julienne style. Luckily it’s simple:
Stack basil leaves on top of each other,
largest to smallest. Roll them up
lengthwise and cut crosswise into 1/8-
to 1/4-inch pieces.
T H E A R T O F T H E I C E C U B E
THE ART of the
ICE CUBE
48
b y
K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 49
It’s a glorious moment in The Wizard of Oz
when the Wicked Witch of the West utters the
now infamous lines, “I’m melting, I’m melting!”
But ice cubes melting on a photography set?
Well, not quite so glorious. These sparkling little
cubes help make a cold beverage look positively
refreshing, and it’s important that they
remain solid, or at least partially solid, over
the course of an hours-long shoot. Thankfully,
when real ice just won’t cut it, there are a
number of convincing alternatives ready to
stand in its place.
SILICONE CUBES Silicone cubes, concocted
by special effects man Geoff
Binns-Calvey, have a texture
similar to Jell-O but look
perfectly real in a still photo.
The squishy material makes it
easy to manipulate and break
into different shapes and sizes.
ACRYLIC OR PLASTIC ICE
Photographers and stylists can
make ice cubes out of acrylic or
plastic, or purchase pre-made
cubes online. But with many cubes
costing as much as $50 a piece,
these can add up quickly.
REAL ICEDon’t forget about frozen water!
For casual shoots that don’t
require many adjustments, real
ice works perfectly well. You
can make your ice with an ice
cube tray, of course, or you can
source it from an ice provider
in all different shapes, textures
and sizes. In need of a 400-pound
iceberg-sized hunk? They’ve got
you covered.
50 A D AY I N T H E L I F E50
51
“Red Sky in the morning sailors takes warning”…. That’s ok!
We need the rain. This time of year our pastures can benefit
from all the moisture they can absorb.
With my overalls tucked into my barn
boots, I head out into the field as the sun
rises over Wisconsin. Dragging my feet
through the morning dew, I take a mental
note of what’s growing in the pasture.
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 51
A Day in the Lifeb y I N G A W I T S C H E R
There’s clover and plantain, crows foot
trefoil and a few pesky thistles ready to
bloom. Overall it looks good. We will be
able to move the cows into this pasture
after the weekend.
ST
. I
SID
ORE’S
ME
AD
Wisconsin
52
On our farm, St. Isidore’s Mead, we
practice Managed Intensive Grazing,
which means we move the cows to a
fresh strip of grass every 12 hours. The
cows are turned into a new pasture
after the morning and evening milkings.
A D AY I N T H E L I F E52
They spend that time eating a diverse diet
of native grasses and wild herbs which
give their milk a clean, grassy flavor. The
cows in turn fertilize the ground behind
them, improving the soils for the future.
53P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
S t. Isidore’s Mead
54
“Ca-boss, Ca-boss, come on ladies, let’s go”“Ca-boss, Ca-boss, come on ladies, let’s go,”
I call out to our 15 Jersey cows as, one by
one, they begin to rise. First is Hannah; she
stands up and immediately whips her long
brown tail across her back before going into
a downward dog-like stretch and then heads
off to the water tank. Next Jenny and Mae
stand up, arch their backs and file into the
line of cows heading towards the barn.
A D AY I N T H E L I F E
55P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 55
56 A D AY I N T H E L I F E
57P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
Back at the barn, my husband Joe sanitizes
all the milking equipment. Producing high
quality milk is extremely important to
us. We will never produce a large amount
of milk, but we work to produce the best
quality. To ensure that high quality, we
milk the old-fashioned way, using a bucket
milking system. The bucket milkers are
gentler on the cows’ udders, and also on
the milk. In a conventional/factory farm
system, milk is pumped dozens of times.
That pumping shatters the fat globules
of the milk. When handled gently, the
milk stays in its truest form, creating a
fuller flavored milk, perfect for making
St. Isidore’s cheese.
58 A D AY I N T H E L I F E
59
At the age of 61, my father, a third
generation dairy farmer, became a licensed
Wisconsin State cheese maker. Now, when
the cows are eating grass as the seasons
allow, we transform our grass-fed, organic,
high quality milk into a farmstead raw milk
cheese. Today is one of those days when
we can deliver the milk to him, still warm
from the morning’s milking.
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
60
After 8 hours of stirring, then adding
the rennet and cultures, the curd comes
together. The cheese is then pressed and
wrapped in butter-soaked cheesecloth,
then pressed again to form 20-pound
round truckles. A label is sewn into the
cheesecloth with the date, the name of
the pasture the cows were grazing in,
a description of the weather and the
names of the cows who produced the
milk. The cheese is then moved into a
cave with the correct temperature and
humidity. The truckles are turned and
brushed continuously throughout a
one-year hibernation in the cave. This
guarantees even moisture throughout
the truckle. Mold will grow on the cheese
which will provide flavor.
After the evening milking, Joe follows the
cows to the field and I make a pit stop
to make martinis and grab some curds
out of the fridge from this morning’s
cheese make. Sitting with Joe in the clover,
cocktails in hand, we listen to the cows
graze—this is a tradition my father started
when we first moved to St. Isidore’s Mead.
With the last sip of gin, the rain starts
to sprinkle, and we head for home.
A D AY I N T H E L I F E
61P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
6262
b y
J U D I T H M A R A
Hidden Gem
HOT DOUG’S “THE DOG” AND “FOIE GRAS AND SAUTERNES DUCK SAUSAGE”
Technically (according to our strict
requirements), Hot Doug’s is a hidden
gem. It’s off the beaten path and you
have to seek out the neighborhood
and the restaurant. What makes the
place easy to find is when the line of
hungry humanity curls around the
block. Once inside, choosing a sausage
from the menu is surprisingly daunting
considering Hot Doug’s serves one thing
and serves it to perfection—sausages.
Yes there are fries, but no burgers, no
wraps and certainly no pizza.
We gave Doug carte blanche to choose
his favorite “gem” to feature. He chose
two, giving the persuasive reason that
they represent the two sides of his
menu––classic and creative. His picks
were a Chicago–style hot dog with
mustard, sport peppers, tomatoes,
pickle, relish and celery salt, and a
playful Foie Gras and Sauternes Duck
Sausage with Truffle Aioli, Foie Gras
Mousse and Fleur de Sel.
Chicago-style hot dogs have a long
history as a cheap meal dating back to
the Depression. It still is today at Hot
Doug’s for only $2 per dog. The Foie
Gras and Sauternes Duck Sausage is
pure Doug at his creative best. Using
an existing high quality duck sausage
and playing around, Doug concocted
this fan favorite. He paired the sausage
The best dishes that no one knows about…yet
HIDDENYou could argue that Hot Doug’s
is not a hidden gem because any
food-focused person in Chicago
has heard of this encased meat
emporium. After all, Hot Doug’s is
what local legends are made of: Doug
Sohn avoids a career path but loves
to cook so he goes to chef’s school.
After he finishes, he’s working as a
cookbook editor and eats a bad hot
dog. Two and a half years later he
opens Hot Doug’s to bring back the
hot dog the way it should be done.
“People weren’t doing it justice and
I wanted to restore respectability to
the sausage,” he explains.
with foie gras mousse, truffles and a
sprinkle of fluer de sel and thought it
would be funny to offer it on his menu,
never thinking it would take off.
For those who will be discovering Hot
Doug’s for the first time, here are a few
newbie tips. Hot Doug’s only accepts
cash. They are hard-core about closing
at 4:00 p.m., however if you are in
line by 4:00 p.m. you will get served.
And the real inside scoop is that on
Fridays and Saturdays they serve Duck
Fat Fries, iconic fries cooked in duck
fat. Just another reason why a humble
neighborhood sausage shop is stuff
legends are made of.
Be sure to check out Doug’s colorful and
irreverent new book Hot Doug’s: The Book,
at www.shopbenchmark.com/hotdougs.
< Gems >
H I D D E N G E M S : H O T D O U G ’ S
6363
HOT DOUG’SMonday–Saturday: 10:30 a.m.-4:00 p.m.
Closed Sundays
773.279.9550
3324 N. California Ave.
Chicago, IL 60618
www.hotdougs.com
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
64 B I S O N I S B A C K64
BISONis back
b y K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y
65P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 65
“This scenery already rich pleasing and beautiful was still farther
heightened by immense herds of buffalo, deer, elk and antelopes
which we saw in every direction feeding on the hills and plains. I
do not think I exaggerate when I estimate the number of buffalo
which could be comprehended at one view to amount to 3000.”
— Meriwether Lewis, September 17, 1804, near present-day Chamerlain, South Dakota
66 B I S O N I S B A C K66
67P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
BISON FACT
Once upon a time, the great American
bison—often mistakenly called
buffalo—flourished in the tens of
millions and covered the Great Plains
in a blanket of shaggy brown. By the
late 19th century, however, settlers
had killed some 50 million bison for
food, sport and to deprive Native
Americans of their most valuable
natural resource. Enormous herds
were reduced to near extinction.
Bison are the heaviest land animals in North
America, often weighing a ton or more and
standing 5 to 6 feet tall at the shoulders. They
have large heads, massive humps and sharp
curved horns that can grow up to 2 feet long.
Despite their formidable size and bulk, bison
can sprint at speeds up to 40 miles per hour.
68 B I S O N I S B A C K
69
Propelled by the efforts of early
conservationists, the bison population
began a slow bounce back in 1905.
Recent interest in the animals as a
healthy, sustainable alternative to beef
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
has only quickened their resurgence.
Today, bison can be found at parks,
reserves and ranches around the
country, as well as on the plates of
adventurous eaters.
70
Joe Ricketts, entrepreneur and
philanthropist, has played a powerful role
in returning the meat to our menus. In
2003, Ricketts founded High Plains Bison,
a retailer of natural bison meat and the
official bison vendor at Chicago’s Wrigley
Field. At Ricketts’s quiet Wyoming ranch,
his bison graze in lumbering herds, heads
bowed, with shoulders as broad and
jagged as the mountains that stand in the
distance. Though much has changed since
the days of Lewis and Clark, one thing
remains the same: the undeniable thrill
at seeing these majestic creatures at
home in their natural habitat.
B I S O N I S B A C K70
71P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 71
72 B I S O N I S B A C K
73P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
Bison has a delicious, delicate flavor—lighter
and somewhat sweeter than beef—and an
impressive nutritional profile. Bison-industry
regulations require that bison raised for
their meat are never treated with artificial-
growth hormones, chemicals or unnecessary
antibiotics. Moreover, bison meat contains
far less fat, calories and cholesterol than
beef, but higher levels of iron, omega-3’s
and other nutrients.
BISON FACT
74 B I S O N I S B A C K
Because bison is so lean, its preparation
requires a little extra care to ensure it doesn’t
dry out. This means that steaks should never
be cooked beyond medium, and tougher cuts
(such as chuck, brisket and short ribs) are
best cooked low and slow for the most tender
and flavorful results.
BISON FACT
75P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
76 F O O D P O R N C O N T I N U E D76
FOOD PORN
continued
77P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 77
Captions by Bryan Olsen and Todd Womack of the amazing web series The Key of Awesome. Find it at www.youtube.com/barelypolitical.
78 F O O D P O R N C O N T I N U E D
79
Why would some sick bastard ice their asparagus? Did the asparagus sprain its ankle or something? I’m contacting the
authorities. Who has Padma’s number?
ICED ASPARAGUS
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
80
These tomatoes saw what was in the Ark at the end of Raiders of the Lost Ark.
squished tomatoes
F O O D P O R N C O N T I N U E D
81P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
82 H O W W E D I D I T
Deconstructing a shot
from Stephen Hamilton’s
The Restaurant Project
favorite dish
Led Zepplin Burger
Restaurant
Restaurant: Kuma’s Corner
Chicago, IL
food stylist
Jen Straus
prop stylist
Paula Walters
HOW WE DID IT
b y J U D I T H M A R A
83P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
84
reheating the lobster
Melt one pound butter in a small stainless steel pot and have it hot,
but not so warm that it is boiling or turning color, medium heat should
work well on most stoves.
Using a basket or a slotted spoon place the lobster in the butter for a
minute or until it feels warm to the touch. Do not overheat the lobster
as the tails will begin to curl and become tough.
Remove the lobster from the butter and place in a warm bowl with
just enough rum sauce to coat it lightly.
Assemble shortcakes with curried shallots, butter poached lobster
and lime vanilla rum sauce. Garnish with small sprigs of cilantro,
basil, and mint finish with a brunoise of shaved green papaya,
mango and pineapple.
butter poached maine lobster (from Arrows Restaurant in Ogunquit, Maine)
ingredients
· 6- 1 1/4 pound lobsters, cooked and picked from the shell
· 1/2 pound unsalted butter
cooking the lobster
In a saucepan, boil milk, water, butter, sugar and sea salt together.
Add the flour and cook until dry.
Bring a very large pot of salted water to a rapid boil. Drop the
live lobsters into the water and cook for nine minutes.
Drain into a sink and cool with ice and running cold water.
Pick off the tails and the claws and knuckles, discard the bodies.
Crack the shells gently with a heavy knife or cleaver and remove
the meat from the shell. (Using scissors will help remove the
knuckle meat easier).
Squeezing the tail firmly until it cracks will also allow you to
then remove the tail meat by pulling the shell apart. Split the
tails in half lengthwise.
Be certain the cartilage inside the claw is removed by making a
small slit and sliding it out. This can be done the morning of the
dinner and refrigerated until ready for dinner.
R E C I P E I N D E X
85
curried shallots
ingredients
· 8 shallots thinly sliced
· 1 tablespoon ginger finely chopped
· 1 serrano chili
· 1 teaspoon tumeric
· 1 tablespoon Madras curry powder
· 1 teaspoon kosher salt
· 1 cup rice wine vinegar
method
Put all ingredients into a stainless pot and
bring to a boil, turn off and allow to cool.
lime vanilla rum sauce
ingredients
· ½ cup lime juice
· ½ cup rice wine vinegar
· ¼ cup dark rum
· 1 serrano chili
· ½ vanilla bean split
· ¼ cup shallots
· 1 tablespoon ginger peeled and thinly sliced
· ½ pound unsalted butter
· Kosher salt
· Fresh ground pepper
· 1 teaspoon lime juice
· 1 teaspoon rum
method
Place the first seven ingredients into a
stainless sauce pan over medium heat and
reduce the liquids by 2/3 rd.
Then whisk in softened butter, season with
salt and pepper, add lime juice and rum.
Strain through a fine sieve discarding solid
ingredients.
Serve at once or hold in a warm place for
up to one hour.
mark’s shortcake
ingredients
· 1½ cups all purpose flour
· 1 ½ teaspoons baking powder
· ½ teaspoons baking soda
· 1 teaspoons salt
· 1 ½ sticks butter cubed then frozen
· ¾ to 1 cup buttermilk
· ¼ cup heavy cream
· 1/8 tsp ground clove
method
Combine dry ingredients. Cut in butter.
Add buttermilk until a soft dough is
formed. Roll out to a ½ inch thickness and
cut with a 3 inch cutter. Brush with cream
and bake at 325F.
R E C I P E I N D E X
86 R E C I P E I N D E X
In a mixing bowl (or blender or processor) beat the eggs. Add
the remaining ingredients and blend until smooth.
Heat a griddle or fry pan on medium high heat. Coat with a
thin film of oil. Carefully ‘drop’ a large spoonful of batter until
it makes a circle of about 3 inches. When a few bubbles appear
on the top, turn them over very carefully and cook until lightly
browned.
We serve them with a peach, raspberry, blueberry compote. I
personally think maple syrup is too strong a flavor for them.
ingredients:
· 4 eggs
· 2 cups sour cream
· 1/4 cup cakeflour
· 2 Tbsp. potato starch
· 3 Tbsp. sugar
· 1/2 tsp. baking soda
· 1/2 tsp. salt
heavenly hots
by Ina Pinkney
When I tasted these light-as-air packed-with-flavor little pancakes, I was hooked.
87R E C I P E I N D E X
Put all dry ingredients into a food processor and combine.
Add butter and ‘pulse’ 7-10 times until the butter pieces are
quite small - about the size of rice.
Fill an 8 oz. ramekin with blueberries and put 1/4 cup of
topping on each.
Store the topping in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
Bake the Crisps at 375 degrees for 15-17 minutes.
ingredients:
· 7oz. flour
· 4oz. sugar, white
· 4oz. sugar, light brown
· 1/2 tsp. cinnamon
· 1/2 tsp. nutmeg
· 6 oz. butter, unsalted, cut into small pieces
crisp topping
by Ina Pinkney
88 R E C I P E I N D E X
Bring 6 qt. of lightly salted water to a boil.
Using a perforated pasta basket, cook sweet potatoes in boiling water until
tender. Remove to an ice bath. Drain thoroughly when chilled. Using the same
method, cook the red potatoes and then cook Brussels sprouts until tender.
Heat a large sauté pan to medium high. Add 1 Tbsp. canola oil to pan. Sauté
onions until lightly browned. Remove from pan to cool. Add 2 Tbsp. canola oil
to pan. Sauté mushrooms until lightly browned. Remove from pan to cool.
Split eggplant in half lengthwise. Score skin and rub with 1Tbsp. canola
oil. Season lightly with Kosher salt and place on a cookie sheet lined with
parchment paper. Roast at 400 F for 15-20 minutes until very tender. Cool, peel
and coarsely chop flesh.
To assemble hash, mix all vegetables thoroughly. Into heavy cream, mix
all additional ingredients. Pour heavy cream mixture over vegetables, mix
thoroughly and refrigerate overnight to allow flavors to develop.
To serve, heat a sauté pan to medium and film with canola oil. Add desired
amount of hash and cook until steaming hot. Serve with poached eggs.
ingredients:
· Butter | 1440g
· 1 ½ lb. Sweet potatoes, peeled and diced
· 1 lb. Red potatoes, peeled and diced
· ½ lb. Brussels sprouts, fresh or frozen
· 4 Tbsp. Canola oil
· 2 Spanish onion, medium, sliced
· 1 Eggplant, medium
· 2 tsp. Kosher salt
· 1 lb. Corn, frozen kernels
· 1 c. Cream, heavy
· 2 tsp. Oregano, dried
· 2 tsp. Thyme, dried
· 1 Tbsp. Garlic, minced
· 2 Tbsp. Lea and Perrins Worsctershire sauce
· 4 tsp. Tamari, gluten free
· 2 tsp. Black pepper, freshly ground
· 2 tsp. Kosher salt (plus additional)
· 1 Tbsp. Ina’s Dirty Spice Mix (recipe, page )
ina’s vegetable hash
by Ina Pinkney
89R E C I P E I N D E X
Wash the chicken and trim any visible fat.
Mix the garlic powder, salt, and pepper into
the buttermilk.
Put the chicken into a 1 gallon self-closing
plastic bag and pour in the buttermilk.
Close the bag, place on a cookie sheet
or into a bowl and refrigerate for 2 hours
or overnight.
Into a large, heavy 6 quart pot, put the oil
and heat over medium heat until it reaches
275°F, using a thermometer.
While the oil is heating, remove the
chicken from the bag and place on a rack
to drain.
For coating, combine flour, garlic powder,
salt and pepper into a large mixing bowl
and combine.
Dredge and press the chicken into the
flour mixture.
Shake off any excess flour. Re-dredge if any
part is missing coverage.
CAREFULLY AND SLOWLY put the
chicken into the hot oil SKIN SIDE
DOWN.
Leave it alone (I’m not kidding!) for 10
minutes. Then you can gently turn the
pieces to keep them separate.
cooking times:Wings: 13-15 minutes,
Legs: 15-17 minutes,
Thighs: 18-20 minutes,
Breasts: 20-25 minutes
If you’re not sure the chicken is done, use
the tip of a sharp knife and poke to see if
the juices run clear or use an instant-read
thermometer, which should read 160°F.
ina’s award-winning fried chicken
by Ina Pinkney
ingredients:
· 2/3 cup sugar
· 2 1/2- 3 pounds chicken- natural or organic cut into 8 pieces
· 1/2 gallon Buttermilk
· 1 tsp. Garlic powder
· 1 tsp. Kosher salt
· 1 tsp. Black pepper, freshly ground
· 3 quarts Trans fat-free oil (we use Canola)
coating:
· 4 cups Flour, all purpose
· 2 tsp. Garlic powder
· 1 tsp. Kosher salt
· 1 tsp. Black pepper, freshly ground
90
Yield: about 20 (3 inch) pancakes Preheat oven to 200.
Sift all dry ingredients together in a large mixing bowl
and stir vigorously.
Combine all wet ingredients and mix until well blended. Stir into
flour mixture and blend well without over mixing.
Heat non-stick pan or griddle over medium-high heat and brush
with oil. Pour 1/4 cup of batter onto the griddle for each pancake.
Cook until bubbles appear on the tops - about 3 minutes.
Turn over and cook about 1 minute more.
Place pancakes, uncovered, on a oven-safe platter in the oven until
all pancakes are made.
NOTE: You can find potato starch (not flour) in a box in the Jewish
Food Section of your supermarket. It might also be in the natural
food area.
ingredients:
· 5 oz. flour
· 1/2 cup each - sugar, potato starch * see
note at bottom
· 1/4 cup whole wheat flour
· 1 tsp. each - baking soda, ground ginger,
ground cloves, dry mustard
· 1/4 tsp. pumpkin pie spice
· 1/2 tsp. salt
· 16 oz. buttermilk
· 1/2 cup sour cream
· 2 eggs
· 1/4 cup vegetable oil
· 2 Tbsp. molasses
gingerbread pancakes
by Ina Pinkney
R E C I P E I N D E X
91
- Rub meat evenly with cure and let sit for 9 days wrapped,
preferably in cryo-vac
- Rinse in cold water
- Rub with rub and smoke at 225 degrees to internal
temp of 160 degrees
- Cool completely
ingredients:
· Pork Ham Cuts (roughly 5#/20#) | 1ea | 4ea
· Kosher Salt | 53g | 212g
· Onion Powder | 25g | 100g
· Brown Sugar | 22g | 88g
· Black Pepper | 15g | 60g
· White Pepper | 15g | 60g
· Garlic Powder | 10g | 40g
· Pink Salt #1 | 7g | 24g
· Hot Paprika | 4g | 16g
· Cayenne Pepper | 5g | 20g
· .Allspice | 5g | 2g
tasso ham
by Justin Brunson
rub
· 1c Black Pepper (rough grind)
· 1T Cayenne Pepper
· 2T Garlic Powder
R E C I P E I N D E X
92
tamarind simple syrup:
· 8 tsp. tamarind paste
· 2 cups palm sugar
· Add 3 cups boiling water
ingredients:
· 1 1/2 oz. Tamarind Simple Syrup
· 1 oz. fresh lime juice
· 5 dashes of house-made pomelo bitters
(substitute grapefruit or any citrus bitters)
· Top with Goose Island Sofie
serves 1
tamarind shandy
From Uncle Boon’s, New York, NY
R E C I P E I N D E X
93
tamarind simple syrup:
· 8 tsp. tamarind paste
· 2 cups palm sugar
· Add 3 cups boiling water
Combine sugar and honey in a heavy sauce pot and bring
to a boil, stirring constantly. Stop stirring and bring syrup
to 360°F. Remove from heat and stir in butter and nuts.
Scrape the mixture onto baking sheet lined with lightly oiled
parchment paper. Spread evenly with an oiled spatula, or
press into the pan with a lightly oiled piece of foil. Be careful,
it’s hot! Let cool until set. Chop coarsely.
ingredients:
· 2/3 cup sugar
· 1/2 cup honey
· 1 tablespoon butter
· 1 cup toasted almonds or pistachios
honey nougatine
by Geovanna Salas, Pastry Chef at Table Fifty-Two
R E C I P E I N D E X
94
To bloom gelatin: Completely submerge gelatin sheets in ice water and wait
until they soften, about 5 minutes.
Bring the cream, honey and milk powder to a boil over high heat. Using a
whisk, slowly temper the hot liquid into the egg yolks, making sure not to
curdle the yolks in the process. Add to the cream mixture and cook until it
reaches 82°C or nappe, when the liquid is thick enough that when you run
your finger down the back of the spatula it holds a line.
Remove from heat and strain the mixture into an ice bath (an empty bowl
set over a bowl of ice). Add the bloomed gelatin after about a minute, and
whisk. Chill in the fridge until set.
Mix lightly and portion into cups.
ingredients:
· Egg yolks | 120g
· Local raw honey | 100g
· Cream | 500g
· Nonfat milk powder | 50g
· Gelatin sheets | 8g
milk honey pudding
by Meg Galus, Executive Pastry Chef at Park Hyatt Chicago and NoMI restaurant
R E C I P E I N D E X
95
Cream butter, sugars and honey until light and fluffy. Add
eggs, one at a time, until incorporated. Mix in all sifted dry
ingredients until just combined. Pipe into Madeleine molds
and freeze until ready to bake. Bake at 325°F for 10 minutes,
turn, then bake 4 more minutes until golden brown. Unmold
and dust with confectioners’ sugar.
ingredients:
· Butter | 1440g
· Sugar | 1200g
· Light brown sugar | 160g
· Honey | 240g
· Salt | 16g
· Eggs | 1600g
· Cake flour | 720g
· All-purpose flour | 720g
· Baking powder | 40g
honey madeleines
by Sarah Kosokowski, Corporate Pastry Chef at Valrhona, Inc, Eastern Region
R E C I P E I N D E X
96
Combine milk, cream, vanilla extract, vanilla bean, and honey in a heavy
saucepan over high heat and bring to a boil. Combine sugar, glucose powder, milk
powder, salt and stabilizer in a mixing bowl. Add yolks to the powdery mixture
and temper into hot liquid. Over medium heat and stirring frequently with a
spatula, cook to nappe or until mixture thickens enough that when you run your
finger down the back of the spatula it holds a line. Remove from heat and whisk
in butter until melted. Strain with a fine strainer to catch any bits. Allow to chill.
*For orange ginger ice cream, to 3 liters of honey vanilla ice cream base, add:
· 1 teaspoon orange extract
· Ginger puree | 50g
· Fabbri mandarin delipaste | 170g
ingredients:
· Milk | 2700g
· Cream | 1430g
· Vanilla extract | 25g
· Vanilla beans | 3ea.
· Honey | 550g
· Sugar | 200g
· Glucose powder | 310g
· Milk powder | 170g
· Salt | 8g
· Stabilizer | 12g
· Egg yolks | 840g
· Butter | 225g
honey vanilla ice cream
by Sarah Kosokowski, Corporate Pastry Chef at Valrhona, Inc, Eastern Region
R E C I P E I N D E X
97
Boil cream, vanilla, and honey in a heavy saucepan over
medium-high heat. Remove from heat and pour over milk
chocolate and mix until smooth. Add softened butter and
burr ??? and mix again until smooth. Pour into two ½ sheet
pans lined with silpat or aluminum foil, shiny side up; let set
overnight before cutting into small pieces.
ingredients:
· 1 cup sliced rhubarb
· Cream | 1400g
· Vanilla bean | 1 ea.
· Honey | 200g
· Milk chocolate | 2kg
· Butter, room temperature | 400g
milk chocolate honey ganache
by Sarah Kosokowski, Corporate Pastry Chef at Valrhona, Inc, Eastern Region
R E C I P E I N D E X
98
Use any type of red, yellow white or purple (boiling) potatoes you find at
the farmer’s market. Rosemary and sage are sturdier types of herbs and
can hold up to baking. This is a great side dish to accompany pork, beef
or grilled fish.
Preheat oven to 400˚
Toss the potatoes, herbs, and garlic together in a baking dish large
enough to hold them in one layer. Drizzle the olive oil over the potatoes
and give them another toss. Sprinkle a little salt and pepper over the
potatoes (you can always add more later).
Roast for 20 minutes, turn over, then roast another 10-15 minutes or
until browned and soft. Taste for seasoning. Serve piping hot.
ingredients:
· 1 1/2 pounds potatoes (see note above) scrubbed
and cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks
· 2-3 Rosemary sprigs, cut into smaller sprigs and
smashed with the flat side of a knife
· 10 very small sage leaves or large leaves cut into
1/2-inch pieces
· 5 garlic cloves (optional) smashed with the flat
side of a knife
· 4 Tablespoons olive oil
· Kosher salt and fresh ground pepper
serves 4
roasted potatoes with rosemary & sage
by Judith Mara
R E C I P E I N D E X
99
Thaw pastry according to instructions.
With a rolling pin, roll out both pastry sheets on a lightly
floured surface. Roll into 10” x 14” rectangles or 12” x 12”
squares. Transfer one sheet to a large baking sheet. Cut
remaining pastry into 4, 13” long x 2-inch wide strips. Brush an
1-inch perimeter around the pastry on the baking sheet with
egg wash. Twist one of the pastry strips and place on an edge
of the pastry flush with the bottom but leaving about 1-inch of
space on the top. Lightly press ends down. Repeat all around
the pastry until an edge is formed. Brush top with remaining
egg wash. (Use leftover pastry to make cheese or cinnamon
straws.)
Prick the bottom of the pastry with a fork about a dozen times
and spread the mustard across the bottom. Refrigerate at least
15 minutes.
Place oven rack in the middle and preheat oven to 400˚.
While dough is resting, add 1 tablespoon olive oil to a sauté
pan and heat on medium-high. Sauté onion slices until they are
slightly browned, remove from heat.
Top the pastry with the cheese, the tomatoes and the onions.
Bake until golden and crisp and cheese is soft, about 20 minutes.
When pastry is done, remove from oven and top with arugula.
Lift some of the tomatoes and onions up over the arugula. Tart
can be served warm or at room temperature.
* You can also make this with one sheet of puff pastry but
it will be smaller. Instructions: Roll out pastry as instructed
above. Using a sharp knife, lightly score a line around the
pastry, 1-inch in from the edge to create a rim, then prick the
inner rectangle with a fork. Continue as instructed reducing
the amount of toppings.
serves 8
farm market vegetable cheese tart
by Judith Mara
This tart is a real show stopper dish with
fresh vegetables and arugula (yes, arugula,
sometimes called rocket, is an herb) from the
farmer’s market.
ingredients:
· 2 sheets all-butter puff pastry* (Dufour or Trader
Joes are preferred, unless you make your own)
· 1 egg, whisked
· 1 tablespoon whole grain or Dijon mustard
· 1 1/2 cups (give or take a little) grated Gruyere,
sliced Taleggio or 1 cup crumbled goat cheese
· 1 pint small tomatoes such as Sun Gold, cherry
or grape, halved and sprinkled with a touch of salt.
· 1 medium red onion, cut in 1/4-inch slices
· Olive oil
· 1 bunch of arugula or rocket
R E C I P E I N D E X
100
Pre heat oven to 375˚ or heat grill.
Slice tomato in half. With the cut side up, sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Let sit for at least 5 minutes. Meanwhile, chop the herbs, and mix
grated cheese and bread crumbs together in a small bowl. Place tomato
halves on a doubled sheet of foil. Sprinkle tomatoes with chopped herbs
(reserve a small amount for garnish) and then the cheese mixture,
drizzle with a little olive oil and pat down.
If baking, transfer tomatoes on foil to a baking dish and bake for 18-20
minutes. If grilling, close foil around tomatoes. Place to the side of the
grill. Check after 10-15 minutes to see if they are soft. Continue grilling
until done.
Optional serving idea: Drizzle with aged balsamic vinegar.
ingredients:
· 1 beefsteak tomato
· Sea salt and fresh ground pepper
· Handful of fresh, chopped herbs: any
combination of basil, oregano, Italian parsley,
tarragon, arugula or thyme
· 3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan or
Pecorino cheese
· 2 tablespoons dry breadcrumbs
· Olive oil
· Aged balsamic vinegar (optional)
serves 2, per tomato
herb stuffed tomatoes
by Judith Mara
R E C I P E I N D E X
101R E C I P E I N D E X
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