who's hungry? magazine | late fall 2013 | no 9
DESCRIPTION
Blending the worlds of food and photography, the magazine features travel stories and recipes from top food writers, as well as styling tips, interviews, and of course, stunning images by Stephen HamiltonTRANSCRIPT
l a t e f a l l 2 0 1 3 N O 0 09
2
FEATURES
2 C O N T E N T S
22
28
Top 5:Savory Pies
Stone Soup:Glamgaiting
20
46
Portrait of a Chef:Lars Kronmark
High Spirits
58 The Art of the Wine Pour
48 Sugar Plum Dreams
06 In Season: Apples
3
4 Contributors
5 Letter from Steve
6 In Season: Apples
20 Portrait of a Chef
22 Top 5: Savory Pies
28 Stone Soup: Glamgating
46 High Spirits
48 Sugar Plum Dreams
58 The Art of the Wine Pour
60 The Cow and the Turkey
72 Eat Your Kale
78 How We Did It
80 Recipe Index
CONTENTS
CONTACTSmedia inquiriesJudith Mara | [email protected]
Deirdre O’Shea | [email protected]
sponsorship opportunitiesDeirdre O’Shea | [email protected]
representationSchumann & Company | www.schumannco.com
[email protected] | 312.432.1702
stephen hamilton 1520 W. Fulton | Chicago, IL 60607
www.stephenhamilton.com
N O 0 09
3C O N T E N T S
78 How We Did It
60
72
The Cow and the Turkey
Eat Your Kale
4 C O N T R I B U T O R S
judith mara | Editor and Writer
Judith has worked with Stephen for almost
seven years and helps to lead the editorial concept
and execution of Who’s Hungry?™ magazine. An
award-winning former creative director for major
ad agencies such as Leo Burnett and J. Walter
Thompson, Judith sweats the details, pens Weather Permitting and
literally hand writes How We Did It.
ian law | Design
Ian designed every aspect of Who’s Hungry?™
magazine with meticulous attention to detail and
typography, and helped turn static images into an
interactive experience. His award-winning design
work has been featured in the pages of Print,
Creativity, How, PDN and Graphic Design USA.
a special thanks to: Bryan Kendall and Airstream of Chicago, Tim Burton, Paula Walters, Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Ashley Mastroianni,
Tricia Schiffmacher, Ina Pinkney, Cece Campise, Ruth Siegel, Michael Anthony, Rick Bayless, Brent Ridge, Josh Kilmer-Purcell, Chad Robertson,
Eric Ripert, John-Gustin Birkitt, Justin Brunson, Lars Kronmark, Tim Havidic, Molly Glackin, Johnny Costello, Benjamin Schiller, Mindy Segal,
Elizabeth Falkner, Della Gossett, Paula Haney, Tom Hamilton, Juan Palomino, Andrew Burkle, Justin Paris, Raymond Barrera, William Smith,
David Raine, Josephine Orba, Walter Moeller
dannielle kyrillos | Writer and Television Commentator
A series judge on Bravo’s Top Chef Just Desserts,
Dannielle is an expert on stylish entertaining, food,
fashion, and travel. She appears regularly on NBC’s
Today and The Nate Berkus Show, as well as on E!
News, BetterTV, CNBC, CNN, and local morning programming in New York
and Philadelphia. For Who’s Hungry?™ magazine, Danielle sought out the
top five savory pies from around the country.
c o n t r i b u t o r s N O 0 0 9
deirdre o’shea | Production Director
If you have worked with Stephen Hamilton,
you’ve worked with Deirdre. Drawing on 15 years
of experience in managing photography studios,
Deirdre has a hand in nearly every aspect of
Stephen’s business. She’s been instrumental in
organizing the magazine’s shoots, sourcing ingredients, and always keeping
production on schedule.
kathryn o’malley | Editor and Writer
Kathryn’s love of food is matched only by her
passion for writing about it; as part of the Who’s
Hungry?™ editorial team, she indulges in a bit of
both. Her popular food blog, dramaticpancake.com,
garners more than 40,000 unique viewers per month
and highlights the people and stories behind great recipes.
audarshia townsend | WriterFueled by an obsession with Chicago’s vibrant
culinary scene, Audarshia Townsend was one of
the first two editors at metromix.com. And while
she continues to write lifestyle features for the
Chicago Tribune, Essence, Los Angeles Times, The
Huffington Post and more, she also connects
with readers through her dining and drinking blog, 312diningdiva.com.
For Who’s Hungry?™ magazine, Audarshia shares a sexy, celebratory
cocktail rooted in the Roaring Twenties.
david sedaris | Humorist, Writer and Radio CommentatorOne of America’s greatest humorists, David Sedaris is
a master of satire and the bestselling author of Barrel
Fever, Me Talk Pretty One Day, Holidays on Ice, and many
more. He is also a playwright and regular commentator
for National Public Radio. For Who’s Hungry?™
magazine, David treats us to a holiday fable in which
barnyard animals take on suspiciously human traits.
Portrait by Hugh Hamrick
5L E T T E R F R O M S T E V E
Once the leaves start falling and the
weather gets cold, I start gearing up for
the holidays–all of the festive food, the
comfort of family and all the unexpected
surprises that come with the season.
LETTER FROM STEVE
As a kid, holiday surprises came wrapped as gifts,
but now I see them as sharing fun and funny
moments. That’s why I am particularly excited
by humorist David Sedaris’s tale, The Cow and
the Turkey. It’s a quirky tale that challenges the
Thanksgiving turkey. Plus, we took a creative
leap and illustrated his story with photographs
and recipes for holiday leftovers from some
great chefs.
It has also been fun to give “sugar plums” a whole
new meaning. Sugar plums will still dance in
children’s heads, but Tim Burton’s sugar plum
persimmon purée is delicious and healthier
than any candy we can think of. In “Sugar
Plum Dreams,” four famous pastry chefs share
exclusive sugar plum holiday desserts.
Speaking of famous chefs, we are refocusing
on the fantastic ideas that they bring to
our magazine readers. We invited chefs Eric
Ripert, Michael Anthony, Rick Bayless and the
Beekman Boys to share with us their best-loved
apple recipes. In “Apples” you’ll relish classic
Caramel Apples, a Fine Apple Tart, Apple-Fennel
Guacamole and more.
You’ve heard of glamping…we had some genuine
fall fun by adding a dash of glamour to tailgating
in “Glamgating”––our latest twist on Stone Soup.
With a gleaming Airstream RV trailer, Buffalo
Trace Bourbon, a roasted pig infused with aged
maple syrup and a guest list including eight of
Chicago’s finest chefs, no one even thought of
asking, Who’s Hungry?
Happiest of holidays from the Who’s Hungry?™
crew. See you in 2014!
STEVE, DEIRDRE, IAN, JUDITH,
KATHRYN AND CECE
6 I N S E A S O N : A P P L E S
IN SEASON
The season’s most seductive fruit is ripe
for the picking, dangling from the treetops
like so many colorful, shining ornaments.
But what to do with all that bounty? For
answers both sweet and savory, we turned
to six of the country’s most inspiring chefs,
who served up everything from comforting
caramel apples to unconventional—yet
nonetheless incredible—guacamole.
b y
K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y
7P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
8 I N S E A S O N : A P P L E S
View recipe on page 80 »
caramel apples
9P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
The apple is the most diverse food plant in the
world, with over 2,500 varieties grown in the
United States. They come in all different sizes,
textures and flavors, with a range of colors
including red, green, yellow and russet (meaning
they’re covered in a slightly rough, brownish
skin). Russet types may not be the prettiest, but
they often have excellent flavor.
Caramel ApplesNo one does modern vintage quite like
the Beekman Boys, Josh Kilmer-Purcell
and Brent Ridge—and for proof, look no
further than their latest cookbook,
The Beekman 1802 Heirloom Dessert
Cookbook. The beautiful nod to nostalgia
is brimming with decadent recipes for
old-time favorites like lemon meringue
pie, blackberry betty and, of course,
caramel apples. We can’t get enough of
the salted peanuts set against the sweet
caramel coating.
Josh Kilmer-Purcell &
Brent Ridge
10 I N S E A S O N : A P P L E S
The best baking apples offer a nice balance of
sweet and tart flavors as well as flesh that won’t
break down as they cook. For a dessert with more
complex flavor and texture, try mixing a few
varieties—Granny Smith, Honeycrisp, Pink Lady
(Cripps Pink), Mutsu (Crispin), Golden Delicious
and Gala are all great choices.
11P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
View recipe on page 82 »
gramercy tavern apple pie
12
Bohemian Apple Layer CakeThe co-owner of San Francisco’s Tartine Bakery with his
wife Elisabeth Prueitt, Chad Robertson makes some of
the best—if not the best—bread in America. But he also
crafts some pretty insane desserts. Try this fragrant,
autumnal beauty (from Robertson’s new cookbook,
Tartine Book No. 3) that’s sweetened with prunes and
raisins; spiced with cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg;
layered with apple butter and prune compote; and
finished with a smooth cider frosting.
I N S E A S O N : A P P L E S
Chad Robertson
13P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
14 I N S E A S O N : A P P L E S
Fine Apple Tart You know that any recipe from four-star Le
Bernardin chef Eric Ripert is going to be a good
one, but if it brings together butter, sugar,
apples and pastry dough—all the better. This
elegant apple tart is made even more special
with the addition of a small amount of apple
brandy, called Calvados, in the glaze.
Eric Ripert
15P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
View recipe on page 81 »
eric ripert’s fine apple tart
16
Apple picking season begins in late August
and lasts through November. But because
they keep well in cold storage, locally
grown apples can be found well into
winter. Of note, the fruit will ripen six to
10 times faster at room temperature than
if stored in the refrigerator.
I N S E A S O N : A P P L E S
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Apple-Fennel GuacamoleWholly guacamole! That’s all we could say about
this adventurous twist on a dip that subs apple for
tomato, fennel for onion, and thyme for cilantro.
Grab a bag of chips and prepare to have your mind
blown—from chef Rick Bayless, we’d expect no less.
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
Rick Bayless
View recipe by Rick Bayless on page 84 »
apple-fennel guacamole
I N S E A S O N : A P P L E S18
Executive Chef Michael Anthony is the driving force
behind the iconic Gramercy Tavern, and with the release
of The Gramercy Tavern Cookbook, his simple yet striking
dishes are now even more accessible. In this one, a
garnish of diced apples lends a perfectly crisp finish to a
vibrant seasonal soup.
Michael Anthony
19P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
View recipe on page 85 »
red kuri squash soup with brussels sprouts and apples
20
P O R T R A I T O F A
CHEFb y K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y
Lars Kronmark
20 P O R T R A I T O F A C H E F : L A R S K R O N M A R K
2121P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
Despite straddling two challenging
worlds as chef and teacher, Lars
Kronmark has proven adept at
handling both. In August of 1995,
he was selected from among
the finest culinary educators in
the United States to open the
Culinary Institute of America at
Greystone. Since then, he has
spearheaded new programs for
industry professionals; contributed
annually to the Worlds for Flavors
International Conference and
Festival; traveled extensively for
international education projects;
and, of course, continued to make
exceptional food.
As a teacher, Chef Kronmark may
be used to asking questions—but
today the tables are turned as
our previously featured chef,
Justin Brunson, quizzes him on
his evolving career, favorite food
towns, the country’s greatest
chefs and more.
from the beginning of your career to the present, what would you say has changed most about working in a kitchen? I think the technology, for sure. In the past, I must
have made a thousand things the hard way. Certain
things were done simply because that’s how it
always was. But today there are a lot of tools and
resources available to make things a little bit easier.
who do you consider to be the top 5 chefs in america?It seems hard to give five names when we are so
saturated with great chefs in an era of amazing
food. I believe there are talented chefs in every state,
many of whom never get the exposure they deserve.
Go find them!
what are your favorite new food towns in america?I kind of love southern Mississippi, New Orleans
and Memphis.
what is your earliest food memory?My dad was a hunter back in Denmark, and my mum
cooked pheasant in a sauce made with mushrooms,
bacon and red currants. It was to die for.
what will be served at your last meal?Coastal Italian seafood like mussels, clams and raw tuna,
with tons of lemon juice, olive oil and garlic. I’d eat it
wearing nothing more than my swim pants, and a glass
of cold white wine from the north of Venice in my hand.
T O P 5 : S AV O RY P I E S
b y D A N N I E L L E K Y R I L L O S
22
savory pies
TOP 5
23P H OTO G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LTO N
One of the innumerable reasons potpie is so
beloved by so many is that by definition, it can
encompass almost anything. It is a stew of
leftovers, of vegetables and often meat, with
crust. Anything needing saving from waste gets
thrown under the lid. Which is why a slight twist
on a traditional escargot preparation becomes
like six tiny potpies, fancifully fit for forest
gnomes and brunch-lovers alike. The butter and
garlic are the broth, and the escargots definitely
prefer these hats to their old shells. Church and
State is one of the best American iterations of the
French bistro, a pioneer in downtown Los Angeles.
It is somehow industrial, airy, cozy and convivial,
and by giving each snail in an order its own pot
and piecrust, it makes two antique peasant dishes
fresh and frisky.
Dannielle Kyrillos, a series judge
on Bravo’s Top Chef Just Desserts
and expert on all things food
and entertaining, shares her five
favorite Savory Pies from around
the country.
Portrait by Peter Hurley
1 escargots de bourgogne en croûte CHURCH AND STATE
1850 INDUSTRIAL ST., #100
LOS ANGELES, CA 90021
212.405.1434
WWW.CHURCHANDSTATEBISTRO.COM
24 T O P 5 : S AV O RY P I E S
lancaster-style “sticky” pot pie PLAIN & FANCY FARM RESTAURANT
3121 OLD PHILADELPHIA PIKE
BIRD-IN-HAND, PA 17505
WWW.PLAINANDFANCYFARM.COM
1.800.669.3568
Anyone from anywhere near Central
Pennsylvania will describe the horror they felt
upon learning that most of the country thinks
“potpie” has a light, flaky crust. In our minds,
potpie has no light or crust-related aspects, and
its defining characteristic is thick, wet, dumpling-
esque noodles that are like kisses from a very
snuggly Labrador. These doughy ribbons swim
in a very yellow, gravy-like chicken broth that
2simmers for hours on end with shreds and
chunks of chicken, carrots, corn and celery. It
might be where the phrases “stick to your ribs”
and “cure what ails you” originated. The charming
and old-school Plain and Fancy is in the heart
of Amish country and its potpie exemplifies this
style. Fair warning: It is hard to recalibrate potpie
perspective after tasting this kind.
25P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
fraunces tavern pot pieFRAUNCES TAVERN | 54 PEARL ST. | NEW YORK, NY 10004 | 212.968.1776
WWW.FRAUNCESTAVERN.COM
3Classic. Crusty. Colonial. Fitting descriptors of
both chicken potpie and perhaps the very best
setting in which to enjoy it, Fraunces Tavern.
Potpie is one of America’s oldest culinary
marvels, and it’s rumored to have been George
Washington’s favorite dish. In this very spot, one
of New York City’s longest-standing structures,
the founding father bid his loyal officers farewell
in 1783. It’s debatable whether potpie was served
that evening, but it is now, and it’s everything
the category should be: flaky, creamy and hearty.
The very traditional version stands on its own
merit, but taken in these woody, fireplace-strewn
environs it is an archetype. Food snobs might
care that a Dublin-based mini-chain runs the
restaurant, but that in no way detracts from an
authenticity every new restaurant seems to try so
hard to create from whole cloth.
SMOG (steak, onion, mushroom, gruyère)
DANGEROUSLY DELICIOUS PIES | 1339 H ST. NE | WASHINGTON, DC 20002 | 202.398.7437
WWW.DANGEROUSPIESDC.COM
If, like front man and head baker Rodney Henry,
you toured with a rock band and also knew how
to make extremely choice piecrust, SMOG is
precisely what you’d whip up after a long stretch
on the road. It tastes like home: sweet roasted
onions, earthy mushrooms, soothing cream,
meaty steak, melty Gruyère. To work with that
lineup, the crust has to be substantial but giving,
T O P 5 : S AV O RY P I E S26
and it is. It is toothsome crust perfection. SMOG
envelopes you and gets stuck in your head and
is what you crave on a cold or sad day, catchy
but substantial like a good song—not surprising
coming from a musician such as Henry. His pie
empire has grown to include outlets around DC
and in Baltimore and he’s taken a spin on TV, but
everything he sells is still made by hand.
4
Kind of like the musicians who play
every night at The Family Wash in uber-
hip East Nashville, savory pies are the
underappreciated heroes of supper. There’s
nothing flashy about them, they haven’t
brought anyone riches or fame (Marie
Callender does NOT count!) and their guts
are a hodgepodge of yesterday’s glory, but
they make your soul warm. Served in those
crinkly tin pans and hatted with luscious
mashed potatoes and an endearing
amount of really sharp cheddar, these
5shepherd’s pies turn the dive-y setting
and accompanying tunes into the spirit-
nourishing backdrop for a really good
alt-country movie. Especially on Tuesdays,
when a pint of good beer and a pie are ten
bucks. There’s a lamb and beef version
and a lentil-based vegetarian pie that has
turned more than one carnivore, and like
every other situation in life where roasted
garlic is an option, “yes” is the right answer
to that one.
27P H OTO G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LTO N
5shepherd’s pieTHE FAMILY WASH
2038 GREENWOOD AVE.
NASHVILLE, TN 37206
615.226.6070
WWW.FAMILYWASH.COM
shepherd’s pie
STONE SOUP28 S T O N E S O U P | G L A M G AT I N G
glamgatingb y
J U D I T H M A R A
29P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
Glamgating is what happens when
you add a dash of glamour to your
traditional tailgate—with sensational
results. It is also the latest twist on
our Stone Soup feature, a semi-regular
series based on the iconic tale of
villagers coming together to create a
grand meal that feeds the entire town.
S T O N E S O U P | G L A M G AT I N G30
Rain and chilly weather was predicted,
but the Midwest likes its curveballs: The
sun came piercing through the skyline
at the very last minute, and it turned out
to be the kind of autumn afternoon that
Chicagoans can’t resist. It was a great day
for sporting newbies and football fans alike
to mingle together and enjoy the outdoors.
Because it’s tailgating season, a
“glamgating” party seemed to be the
perfect way to mix things up at our latest
Stone Soup gathering. Of course, it took
some planning to get that “glam” part
in place—we wanted to make sure this
tailgate was unlike anything our guests
had ever experienced. To that end, all
the stops were pulled: a gleaming new
Airsteam trailer; a roasted pig infused with
aged maple syrup; an amazing guest list
including eight of Chicago’s finest chefs;
over twenty side dishes and desserts
contributed by the chefs and other guests;
hot apple cider spiked with Buffalo Trace
Bourbon; and a surprise guest of honor––
the venerable TV anchor, Bill Kurtis.
31P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
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1. Stephen Hamilton | 2. Tim Burton – Maple Wood Farm | 3. Giuseppe Tentori – Executive Chef GT Oyster & Boka Chicago | 4. Michael Shenfeld
– Real Estate Consultant | 5. Kate Bernot – Nightlife Reporter Red Eye | 6. Mike Mech – The Bungalow Chef | 7. Carol Mackey – Living60010
Website | 8. Joe Campise | 9. Ashley Mastroianni – Buffalo Trace Brand Ambassador | 10. Chef Dale Levitski | 11. Linda Levy | 12.Yervant
Chalkagian | 13. JuneElise Marsigan – Room 1520 Venue Manager | 14. Greg Burton – son of Tim Burton | 15. Chris Bishop | 16. Dave Mackey –
Former Blackhawk Player | 17. Chrissie Mena | 18. Haley Lertola – Room 1520 Venue Manager | 19. Bryan Kendall – Airstream Repsentative |
20. Stan Revas | 21. Ina Pinkney – “Breakfast Queen”, Owner and Chef of Ina’s | 22. Doug Wilson | 23. Judith Dunbar-Hines | 24. Michael Fiddler –
Executive Chef Trump | 25. Maggie Revas | 26. Deirdre O’Shea – Producer for Stephen Hamilton | 27. George Campise | 28. Rodelio Aglibot – The
Food Buddha & Chef-Owner E+O Food and Drink | 29. Cliff Etters | 30. Ray Anguiani – Mixologist Atwood Cafe | 31. Derek Simcik – Executive
Chef Atwood Cafe | 32. Bill Kurtis – Tall Grass Beef | 33. Karl Helfrich – Pastry Chef European Imports
S T O N E S O U P | G L A M G AT I N G
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P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N | G L A M G A I T I N G P O R T R A I T S B Y J U S T I N PA R I S
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S T O N E S O U P | G L A M G AT I N G34
35P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
Friends of WH? came from far and near.
First to arrive was Tim Burton of Burton’s
Maplewood Farm. Tim came all the way
from Medora, Indiana, bearing the gift
of a 45-pound pig and his La Caja China
(pronounced la caha cheena) pig roaster.
With a three-hour head start on smoking
the pig, Tim filled the parking lot with the
warm, smoky scent of maple and pork.
Meanwhile, Bryan Kendall of Airstream
of Chicago in Joliet, Illinois, hitched up a
new International Serenity RV trailer—a
gorgeous silver backdrop for the feast that
was about to unfold.
36
We love to see the magic that happens
when chefs, food ambassadors and regular
cooks contribute a dish to the same table.
As always, the results were astonishing:
bulgur wheat and Brussels sprouts salads,
fresh spinach and artichoke dip, hot beef
and vegetable stews, red wine caramel
glazed apples, oatmeal cookies, banana
bread, baklava and a glorious apple,
persimmon and cranberry crisp. Slowly, a
fall food theme emerged that had nothing
to do with typical football fare.
S T O N E S O U P | G L A M G AT I N G
37P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
38 S T O N E S O U P | G L A M G AT I N G
39P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
40 S T O N E S O U P | G L A M G AT I N G
Introductions were made as soon as dishes
were handed off and cocktails were poured.
Chefs enjoyed reconnecting with other
chefs they don’t see very often. Everyone
was happy to see chef Rodelio Aglibot (TLC,
Food Buddha) and congratulate him on his
newest restaurant. It was also fun to see
chef Dale Levitski (Top Chef alum) the day
after he returned from a cooking-filled
summer in Montana. Plus, he brought the
most gorgeous vegetable market salad ever
seen in a concrete parking lot.
41P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
Chef Ina Pinkney (Ina’s, Taste Memories)
reigned over the crowd and treated
everyone to pumpkin cheesecake and
heirloom tomato bruschetta. New dad,
chef Giuseppe Tentori (GT Fish & Oyster,
BOKA), went super-casual with a creamy
and very cheesy shrimp mac and cheese
that appealed to the child in all of us. Chef
Michael Mech (Bungalow Chef) outdid
himself with his grandmother’s German
potato salad.
42 S T O N E S O U P | G L A M G AT I N G
43P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
But the real showstopper—even in the
eyes of the seasoned professionals—was
the moment when Tim Burton and his
son pulled the golden, glistening whole
pig from its roasting box and carried it
ceremoniously to the carving table. The
pig was moist and juicy, the salted meat
blending flawlessly with sweet maple syrup.
Thirty pounds of tender pork disappeared
fast––snout, cheeks, ears and all.
We can’t do it every year—and at some
point we’ll have to settle for beer and
chicken wings—but that’s exactly what
made this glamgate so special.
44 S T O N E S O U P | G L A M G AT I N G
45
GLAMGATING MENU WHOLE ROAST PIG
Tim Burton (Burton’s Maplewood Farms)
CHINESE ALMOND COOKIES
Sam Jorden (graphic designer)
MARKET VEGETABLE SALAD
Chef Dale Levitski
(Sprout, Frog & Tail, Top Chef runner up)
BULGUR WHEAT SALAD
Carol Hojem Mackey
(The Suburban Epicurean, food editor Living60010)
BUFFALO TRACE HOT CIDER
Ashley Mastroianni (Buffalo Trace Bourbon)
and Taylor Ortiz
GERMAN POTATO SALAD
RED WINE CARAMEL GLAZED APPLES
Chef Michael Mech (Bungalow Chef)
OATMEAL COOKIES
Chrissie Mena (founder/president of Living60010)
HEIRLOOM TOMATO BRUSCHETTA
PUMPKIN CHEESECAKES
Ina Pinkney (Ina’s Restaurant, Taste Memories)
MINI BANANA BREADS
Meg Saherlie (owner of In Stitches)
MAC AND CHEESE WITH SHRIMP
Chef Giuseppe Tentori (BOKA, GT Fish & Oyster)
BEEF STEW & VEGETABLE STEW
Doug Wilson (foodie groupie and HR professional)
SPINACH AND ARTICHOKE DIP
BRUSSELS SPROUT SALAD
APPLE PERSIMMON AND CRANBERRY CRISP
The Who’s Hungry? Kitchens
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
4646 H I G H S P I R I T S : B E G I N N I N G T O E N D
b y
A U D A R S H I A T O W N S E N D
HIGH SPIRITS
At Chicago’s Berkshire Room, located in
the trendy River North neighborhood,
the craft cocktail lounge pays homage to
the 1920’s in décor and drinks. The bar’s
interior boasts its predecessor’s original
terrazzo composite flooring as well as
steel shutters from a Kentucky bourbon
distillery. And the menu, of course,
effortlessly dances between classic and
contemporary elixirs, with the “barrel
finished” cocktail list offering up some
satisfying gems.
Of note is the newest addition, Beginning
to End, made with rum, scotch and rye
and aged approximately four to seven
months in Atlantico rum barrels. Created
by Berkshire bartender Johnny Costello,
the celebratory sipper boasts the type of
back story that would put a smile on Al
Capone’s face.
BEGINNING to END
With this year’s reboot of The Great Gatsby and the continuing popularity
of HBO’s Boardwalk Empire, Americans remain fascinated with the Roaring
Twenties. The romanticizing of a colorful era filled with images of flirty
flappers, dangerously dapper gangsters and Prohibition never seems to go
away—especially when it comes to cocktails.
According to Berkshire Room partner
Benjamin Schiller, Costello came
up with the name of the cocktail as
he traced the travels of a barrel’s
“beginning to end.” In the United States
it’s illegal to use barrels more than once
to age spirits (e.g., gin, vodka, whiskey),
but bartenders skirt around the law by
aging cocktails in used casks.
The time Beginning to End spent in
the Atlantico rum barrels produces
richer, heavier nuances, says Schiller.
The finished product arrives to the
customer in a coupe, showcasing a
deep, mahogany hue.
47
Amended recipe by Johnny Costello on page 86 »
beginning to end
47P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
BERKSHIRE ROOM | JOHNNY COSTELLO15 E. OHIO ST. | CHICAGO, IL 60611
LOBBY LEVEL OF ACME HOTEL
WWW.THEBERKSHIREROOM.COM
312.894.0800
48 S U G A R P L U M D R E A M S48
. . .
E X C E R P T F R O M
The Sugar-Plum Tree by Eugene Field
1850 -1895
Sugar Plum Dreams
. . .
Persimmon Desserts That Will Dance In Your Head
b y
JUDITH MARA w i t h TIM BURTON
· Have you ever heard of the Sugar-Plum Tree? ‘T is a m
arvel of great renown! It bloom
s on the shore of the Lollipop sea · In the garden of Shut-Eye Town; The fruit that it bears is so wondrou
sly sw
eet ·
(A
s th
ose
who
hav
e ta
sted
it
say)
· T
hat
good
litt
le c
hild
ren
have
onl
y to
eat ·
Of t
hat fruit t
o be happy next day
49P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 49
What are Sugar
Plums?
For almost two hundred years, children have anticipated the
night before Christmas with visions of sugar plums dancing
in their heads. The Sugar Plum Fairy, ruler of the Land of
Sweets in Tchaikovsky’s Nutcracker Ballet, dances with
sweets from all over the world. And Chicago writer Eugene
Field wrote a famous children’s poem The Sugar-Plum Tree
during the same era. Sugar plums were obviously something
outstanding, but nobody really knows exactly what they are.
50
Children from long ago dreamt about
sugar plums like today’s kids dream
about Nerds and Skittles. So, many
people have assumed that sugar plums
were a type of candy or dragée. Others
have concluded that they were a dried
plum rolled in sugar.
Then it was recognized that historically
all sweet dried fruits were referred
to as plums (plum pudding anyone?).
In England, as far back as the 17th
century, the word “plum” was thought to
comprehensively mean sweet, delectable
or delightful.
The children were nestled all snug in their beds,
While visions of sugar-plums danced in their heads.
And mamma in her ‘kerchief, and I in my cap,
Had just settled our brains for a long winter’s nap. . . .
E X C E R P T F R O M
A Visit from St. Nicholas by Clement Clark Moore
1822
S U G A R P L U M D R E A M S
51P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
View recipe by Mindy Segal on page 88 »
sugar plum and smoked almond linzer squares with spiced butterscotch cream
52 S U G A R P L U M D R E A M S
53
sticky toffee sugar plum pudding and sugar plum gelato
View recipe by Elizabeth Falkner on page 90 »
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
There are many words people use to
describe the flavor of a persimmon.
Pastry Chef Mindy Segal sums it up this
way, “[A persimmon] tastes like a cross
between a quince and a under ripe pear”.
Grower Tim Burton says, “I’ve had two
people say the flavor takes them back
to the flavor of a Creamsicle”. We’ve
also heard they taste like apricots and
mangos or both. All this means is they
have a mild flavor of their own and are
very sweet––a lot like what you’d think a
sugar plum would taste like.
American persimmons are related to
Hachiya persimmons, the heart-shaped
variety that is common in grocery stores,
and should be handled in the same
way. The fruit needs to be super ripe
and extremely soft to the touch before
extracting the pulp. If all you can get
are firm persimmons you must let them
undergo the bletting (sit until they are
over ripe) process for a few days. Some
people remove the skins, others only
remove the seeds before puréeing.
To Purchase Burton’s Sugar
Plum Pureé online visit:
www.burtonsmaplewoodfarm.com
American Persimmon
Basics
5454 S U G A R P L U M D R E A M S
Jumping across the Atlantic Ocean,
American colonists were introduced
to new varieties of “plums” by Native
Americans. William Strachey, the first
Secretary of The Colony, was the first to
connect American persimmons grown
on our soil to “plombs” (plums) in his
manuscript titled Historie of Travaile
into Virginia Britania, written in 1612.
“They have a plomb (plum) which they call
pessemmins (persimmon), like to a medler
(fruit) ... they grow on a most high tree.
When they are not fully ripe, they are harsh
and choakie, and furre (fur) in a man’s
mouth ... howbeit, being taken fully ripe, yt
is a reasonable pleasant fruict, somewhat
lushious. I have seene our people put them
into their baked and sodden puddings; there
be whose taste that allows them to be as
pretious (precious) as the English apricock;
I confesse it is a good kind of horse plomb.”
Strachey very accurately described
this mysterious fruit, even though
through time American persimmons
have evolved into a bigger, sweeter
cultivar. And, between being a “plum”
(sweet) and a “plomp” (plum), it is
understandable how today’s growers
such as Tim Burton of Maplewoods
Farm in Medora, Indiana fondly call
American persimmons sugar plums.
55P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
sugar plum panna cotta with bourbon barrel aged maple syrup
View recipe by Della Gossett on page 87 »
56
Not even knowing the complete history,
Tim and his family have always thought
of the persimmons that grow on their
farm as sugar plums for very good
reasons.
Their sugar plums are harvested from
October through December. It is no
accident that this fruit is harvested
around the holidays when they plop to
the ground, because persimmons cannot
be eaten unripe. If you do, you’ll never
forget the experience.
The acute astringency of a persimmon
will wick all the moisture from your
mouth in just one bite.
But don’t let that intimidate you. If you
can get ahold of tree-fallen persimmons,
store-bought persimmons that you
have bletted (let sit) until crinkled and
overripe, or frozen persimmon purée,
you will have sugar plums dancing in
your head with sugary pleasure.
Replace our pumpkin pie at Thanksgiving?
Some think that is sacrilegious. Others
think persimmon purée is the best thing
that happened to holiday desserts since
pumpkin. To find out what expert chefs
think, Tim sent four famous pastry chefs
some of his sugar plum purée to create
holiday desserts.
For all four chefs this was the first time
using American persimmon purée in
a recipe, and all four were more than
pleased that sugar plums really do grow
on trees.
“We forgo the traditional pumpkin
pie for my wife Angie’s sugar plum
pie or pudding; everyone can’t wait
for the holidays because of these,”
says Tim.
56 S U G A R P L U M D R E A M S
5757P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
Amended recipe by Paula Haney on page 92 »
persimmon pie
T H E A R T O F T H E W I N E P O U R
The Art of the
Wine Pour
58
Everyone knows that there’s an art to making wine—but what about
capturing it on camera? How do you turn the wine pour itself into a
piece of art? To portray the magic of wine in a single shot, you need
to stimulate the viewer’s senses and most importantly, convey a
sense of movement. Here’s how.
BACKLIGHTING
Lighting directed towards
the camera, from behind the
glass, gives the wine a lovely,
glowing hue.
FLAVOR CUES
A barrel in the background of
the photo grounds the scene and
suggests rich notes of oak.
SPECIAL EFFECTS
A custom rig, created by Geoff Binns-
Calvey, pumps wine continuously through
the bottom of a wine bottle and into a
special wine glass. Although you can’t
see it, there’s a small tube connected to
the bottom of the glass that lets Geoff
control how high—or how low—the wine
flows. This, of course, makes timing the
photo much easier.
b y
K AT H RY N O ’ M A L L E Y
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
Wine Pour
59
60 T H E C O W A N D T H E T U R K E Y B Y DAV I D S E DA R I S60
In this allegorical tale from famed humorist David Sedaris, an
innocent turkey has the last laugh over the selfish, greedy cow
who didn’t get him anything for Christmas. But as most of us
(hopefully) know, the holiday season is less about taking and
more about sharing, connection and generosity. That means if
you’re serving dinner for family and friends, you’re probably
going to plan for too much food. And that, of course, means
plenty of leftovers just waiting to be reinvented.
The Cow
Turkeyand the
b y D AV I D S E D A R I S
intro and captions by Kathryn O’Malley
61P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 61
62
The cow was notoriously cheap. So it
surprised everyone when she voted, yes,
for the secret Santa program. It was the
horse’s suggestion and she backed it
immediately saying, “I choose the turkey.”
“That’s not exactly the way it works,”
the pig explained. “It’s secret, see? So
we each draw a name and keep it to
ourselves until Christmas morning.”
“Why do you have to be like that?” the
cow asked.
And the duck sighed, “Here we go.”
“First you ask me to give someone a
Christmas present,” the cow continued,
“And then you tell me it has to be done
your way. Like, oh, I have four legs so I’m
better than everyone else.”
“Don’t you have four legs?” the pig asked.
“All right, just because you have a curly
tail,” the cow said. The pig tried looking
behind him. But all he could see were his
sides.
“Is it curly, curly?” he asked the rooster,
“Or curly, kinky?”
“The point is that I’m a little tired of being
pushed around,” the cow said. “I think a lot
of us are.” This was her all over. So rather
than spending the next week listening to
her complain, it was decided that the cow
would give to the turkey and that everyone
else would keep their name a secret.
There were, of course, no shops in the
barnyard, which was a shame as all of
the animals had money—coins mainly,
dropped by the farmer and his children as
they went about their chores. The cow once
had close to $3 and gave it to a calf the
farmer planned on taking into town.
T H E C O W A N D T H E T U R K E Y B Y DAV I D S E DA R I S
63
“I want you to buy me a knapsack,”
she told him, “Just like the one that the
farmer’s daughter has, only bigger and
blue instead of green. Can you remember
that?” The calf had tucked the money
into his cheek before being led out of the
barn. “And wouldn’t you know it,” the
cow later complained, “Isn’t it just my
luck that he never came back?”
She’d spent the first few days of his
absence in a constant, almost giddy,
state of anticipation. Watching the barn
door, listening for the sound of the truck,
waiting for that knapsack, something
that would belong only to her. When it no
longer made sense to hope, she turned
to self-pity then rage. The calf had taken
advantage of her, had spent her precious
money on a bus ticket and boarded
thinking, so long, sucker.
It was a consolation then to overhear
the farmer talking to his wife and learn
that taking an animal into town was a
euphemism for hitting him in the head
with an electric hammer. So long, sucker.
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
6464
Milking put the cow in close proximity to
humans, much closer than any of the other
animals. And she learned a lot by keeping
her ears open—local gossip, the rising cost
of fuel oil, and countless little things, the
menu for Christmas dinner, for instance.
The family had spent Thanksgiving visiting
the farmer’s mother in her retirement
home and had eaten what tasted like
potato chips soaked in chicken fat. Now
they were going to make up for it. “Big
time,” the farmer’s wife said. And with all
the trimmings.
T H E C O W A N D T H E T U R K E Y B Y DAV I D S E DA R I S
6565P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
66
The turkey didn’t know that he would
be killed on Christmas Eve. No one did,
except for the cow. That’s why she’d
specifically chosen his name for the
secret Santa program. It got her off the
hook and made it more fun to watch his
pointless, fidgety enthusiasm.
“You’ll never in a million years guess
what I got you,” she said to him a day
after the names were drawn.
“Is it a bath mat?” the turkey asked. He’d
seen one hanging on the clothesline and
was obsessed with it for some reason.
“It’s a towel for the floor,” he kept telling
everyone. “I mean really, isn’t that just the
greatest idea you ever heard in your life?”
“Oh, this is a lot better than a bath mat,”
the cow said, chuckling as the turkey
sputtered, “No way,” and “What could
possibly be better than a bath mat?”
“You’ll see come Christmas morning,”
she told him.
T H E C O W A N D T H E T U R K E Y B Y DAV I D S E DA R I S
View recipe by John-Gustin Birkitt on page 93 »
twice baked potatoes
67P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
TWICE BAKED POTATOES
This isn’t your mother’s baked
potato. Chef John-Gustin Birkitt
incorporates everything good into
these stellar, twice-baked spuds:
crème fraîche, ricotta, eggs, bacon
and freshly grated Parmesan cheese.
68
NEW MEXICAN GREEN CHILE TURKEY
Justin Brunson drew on flavors like chile,
cumin and lime to create this Southwestern
spin on turkey, perfect for nestling into
warm tortillas and topping with cheddar,
sour cream and cilantro.
T H E C O W A N D T H E T U R K E Y B Y DAV I D S E DA R I S
View recipe by Justin Brunson on page 94 »
new mexico green chile turkey
69P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
Most of the animals were giving food
as their secret Santa gift. No one came
out and actually said it, but the cow had
noticed them setting a little aside. Not
just scraps, but the best parts—oats from
the horse, thick crusts of bread from
the pig. Even the rooster—who was the
biggest glutton of all—had managed to
sacrifice and had stockpiled a fistful of
grain behind an empty gas can in the far
corner of the barn.
He and the others were surely hungry,
yet none of them complained about it.
And this bothered the cow more than
anything. How could they be so corny? She
looked at the pig who sat smiling in his pen
and then at the turkey who’d hung a sprig
of mistletoe from the end of his waddle
and was waltzing across the floor saying,
“Any takers?” Even to other guys. It was his
cheerfulness that irritated her the most.
And so, on the morning of Christmas Eve
she pulled him aside for a little talk about
the future.
“The farmer will be cutting your head
off at around noon,” she said. “His son
wanted him to use a chainsaw, but he’s a
traditionalist so we’ll probably be sticking
with the axe.” The turkey laughed, thinking
it was a joke. But then he saw the pleasure
in the cow’s face and knew that she was
telling the truth.
“How long have you known?” he asked.
“A few weeks,” the cow told him. “I meant
to tell you earlier, but what with all the
excitement, I guess I forgot.”
“Kill me and eat me?” The cow nodded. The
turkey removed the mistletoe from the end
of his waddle. “Well, golly,” he said, “Don’t I
feel stupid?”
Not wanting to spoil anyone’s Christmas,
the turkey announced that he would be
spending the holiday with relatives, “The
wild side of the family,” he said, “Just flew in
last night from Kentucky.”
When noon arrived and the farmer showed
up, he followed him out of the barn without
complaint saying, “So long everyone,” and
“See you in a few days.” They all waved
goodbye except for the cow, who lowered
her head toward her empty trough. She
was just thinking that a little extra food
might be nice when a horrible thought
occurred to her.
The rooster was standing in the doorway
and she almost trampled him on her
way outside shouting, “Wait, come back.
Whose name did you draw?”
“Say, what?” the turkey said.
“I said, whose name did you get?
Who’s supposed to receive your
secret Santa present?”
“You’ll see,” the turkey said, his voice
a little song that hung in the air long
after he disappeared.
70 T H E C O W A N D T H E T U R K E Y B Y DAV I D S E DA R I S
71P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
THANKSGIVING PUDDING
Chef Tim Havidic is used to pushing
the boundaries at Chicago’s
renowned restaurant iNG—short
for “imagining new gastronomy.”
But when it comes to Thanksgiving
comfort food, his approach is a bit
more relaxed; all you need are a
few simple ingredients to totally
transform your leftover turkey and
dinner rolls.
View recipe by Tim Havidic on page 95 »
thanksgiving pudding
72 E AT YO U R K A L E72
EAT your KALEWEATHER PERMITTING
b y J U D I T H M A R A
73P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 73
TEN YEARS AGO you never heard much
about kale. Yes, it was chopped and tossed
into some Asian dishes, soups and sautéed
greens, but I for one certainly didn’t know
it was kale. And it was not something
mothers nagged kids into eating by saying,
eat your kale, it will make you big and
strong. Actually, the first time I recall
recognizing kale, it was planted next to fall
mums in a flower box.
Now kale is loved, revered and cooked
in every conceivable way. Scores of
American chefs, bloggers, farmers,
cooks and health gurus have turned us
into believers, making kale almost as
common as lettuce. Kale, the antioxidant,
anti-inflammatory, anti-cancer, anti-
cholesterol superfood is everything we
want in a vegetable. Plus, it tastes good.
74
WITH A MILD FLAVOR when raw and a gentle cabbage taste
when cooked, kale is versatile and easy to
prepare, which is possibly another reason
it has taken off to the extreme. When you
see kale piled high next to squash and
pumpkins, it is prime kale harvest time at
the farmer’s markets and green grocers.
Once the frost hits, kale still in the ground
gets sweeter and milder. If you are a first-
time kale eater, this is the time to try it.
Kale is a humble vegetable that is
related to cabbage and broccoli. It’s not
like heirloom tomatoes (yet), where there
are suddenly a multitude of varieties
with cute names. There are only a few
varieties of kale readily available. Most
common is curly kale (aka green kale),
which you can find almost anywhere
vegetables are sold. It is a sturdy variety
with the strongest flavor when cooked.
Our favorite is the tender cavolo nero, or
Tuscan kale (aka dinosaur kale, black kale).
Its long, slender, green-black leaves are
more delicate and have less bitterness
than curly kale. At farmer’s markets you
can also find Siberian or Russian kale,
which (no surprise) is the most cold hardy
and has a cabbage-pepper taste. Flowering
kale (aka Kamome kale) is very pretty
with white to purple center leaves. While
it is edible, it is also very bitter and is best
used as a floral accent.
74 E AT YO U R K A L E
75P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N 75
SOME KALE BASICS
When buying kale, choose bunches with
small to medium, deep green leaves, because
small leaves will be more tender and milder-
tasting than large ones. Store in a plastic bag
in the coldest part of the fridge for three to
five days. Don’t wash until ready to use.
Before cooking, strip the center ribs
out of the larger leaves and discard.
Wash leaves thoroughly in cold
water and then pat dry. Tear into
pieces, cut into strips or chop as
directed by your recipe.
Kale also freezes well. Strip the center ribs out
of the larger leaves and discard. Cut the leaves
crosswise into strips and blanch in salted
boiling water for 30 seconds. Drain and refresh
in cold water, then squeeze the water out and
freeze the leaves in quart-size freezer bags.
76 E AT YO U R K A L E
77
It’s often served in soups, pasta, gratins
and stews. It can be added to eggs, pizza,
casseroles, salads, potatoes, quiche,
mac and cheese and stir-fries, and it’s
a perfect choice when trying to sneak a
little something healthy into a dish. And
we want to thank whoever came up with
making kale chips.
KALE IN THE KITCHEN
There are copious amounts of kale recipes
on the web, and hundreds of ways to
search for them. Kale is one of the few
leafy greens that you can eat raw, sautéed,
steamed, boiled, baked, fried and even
drink in a smoothie.
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
View recipes on page 96 »
kale focused recipes
78 H O W W E D I D I T
79P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N
Deconstructing a shot
from Stephen Hamilton’s
The Restaurant Project
favorite dish
Scallops
Restaurant
Restaurant: Hubbard Inn
Chicago, IL
food stylist
Josephine Orba
prop stylist
Tom Hamilton
HOW WE DID IT
b y J U D I T H M A R A
80 R E C I P E I N D E X
Line a baking sheet with foil and lightly
butter the foil. Poke a hole in the stem end
of each apple and insert a cinnamon stick or
lollipop stick.
Bring a large saucepan with a couple of
inches of water to a simmer. Keep at the
ready for after the caramel is made.
In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar,
maple syrup, water, salt, and cinnamon and
bring to a boil over medium heat, brushing
the sides of the pan with a damp pastry
caramel apples
by Josh Kilmer-Purcell and Brent Ridge, Authors and TV Personalities
ingredients:
· Softened butter for the foil
· 4 small apples
· 4 long cinnamon sticks or lollipop sticks
· 1cup granulated sugar
· 1/4 cup maple syrup or honey
· 1/3 cup water
· 1/2 teaspoon salt
· 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
· 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
· 1 cup salted peanuts, coarsely chopped
·
serves 4
You’ll need a candy thermometer for these classic autumn treats.
brush to prevent any crystals from forming.
Add the butter and cook the caramel,
without stirring, until a candy thermometer
registers 300°F.
Set the caramel pan into the larger pan of
simmering water to keep the caramel warm
so it won’t harden. Quickly, but very carefully,
dip each apple into the caramel, leaving the
area around the stem uncoated. Roll the
apples in the nuts to coat. Set the apples on
the buttered foil to cool.
81R E C I P E I N D E X
fine apple tart
by Eric Ripert, Le Bernardin Executive Chef
ingredients for apple compote:
· 2 granny smith apples
· 2 tablespoons sugar
· 1/2 tablespoon lemon juice
· 1 vanilla bean
makes 1 tart serving 4 people
First, make the apple compote. Peel and finely dice the
apple, then mix with the sugar, lemon juice and vanilla
bean. Place in a small pot and cook on a medium heat
until the apple has softened. Reserve in a bowl covered
with plastic wrap and chill.
Next, make the glaze. Place all ingredients in a small
pot, bring to a boil and pour into a bowl. Let chill.
Finally, assemble the tart. Prick the disk of frozen puff
pastry all over with a fork and place on a cookie sheet
lined with parchment paper or a silicone non-stick
baking sheet. Evenly spread the apple compote over
the tart. Peel the remaining 4 granny smith apples
and cut into 1/8-thick slices. Neatly cover the compote
with shingled apple slices. Brush the apples with
melted butter and sprinkle with the sugar. Bake in a
350-degree oven for about 40 minutes, until the puff
pastry is cooked and the apples are golden at the
edges. Gently brush the apple tart with a little of the
Calvados glaze to give it a nice sheen.
Serve with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.
ingredients for glaze:
· 1/2 cup sugar
· 1/4 cup water
· 1/4 cup Calvados
ingredients for tart:
· 1 10-inch disk of frozen
store-bought puff pastry
· 4 granny smith apples
· 1 stick of butter, melted
· 1 tablespoon sugar
82
makes 1 pie
gramercy tavern apple pie
by Michael Anthony, Gramercy Tavern Executive Chef
Apple Pie – Gramercy Tavern’s apple pie is an annual
favorite. They make it with a bunch of different kinds
of apples (Winesap, Honeycrisp, Fuji, Granny Smith,
and more..) but the recipe allows for using just one kind
– or however many you have. It’s a warm, rustic, and
classically festive dish for Fall and for the holidays.
R E C I P E I N D E X
83
to make the pie:
Preheat the oven to 400˚F, with a rack in the bottom
position.
In a large bowl, whisk together the sugar, cornstarch,
cinnamon, and salt.
On a lightly floured surface, roll one disk of dough into
a 13-inch circle, then fit it into a 9-inch pie dish. Roll
the other disk into a 13-inch circle.
Add the apples to the sugar mixture and toss
thoroughly. (We combine the apples with the sugar at
the last minute so the mixture stays drier and doesn’t
weight down the dough.) Pour the apple mixture into
the dish. We call for just the right amount of apples.
Don’t be afraid if you see them piled high. Cover with
the remaining dough circle, then trim the excess
dough, and crimp the edges.
Cut about a dozen slits all over the pie. Sprinkle
liberally with sugar and cinnamon and place on a
baking sheet lined with aluminum foil. (This way you
needn’t worry about any juices that may bubble over.)
Bake until the crust is golden and the filling is bubbly,
65 to 75 minutes. Transfer the pie to a rack and serve
warm or at room temperature.
ingredients for pie:
· 3⁄4 cup sugar, plus more for sprinkling
· 3 tablespoons cornstarch
· 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, plus more for sprinkling
· 1⁄2 teaspoon salt
· Pie Dough
· All-purpose flour for rolling
· 8 medium apples (about 31⁄2 pounds), peeled, cored,
and cut into 1⁄4-inch slices
to make the pie dough:
In a large bowl, stir together the flour and salt. Add
the butter and toss to coat with the flour, then flatten
the bits of butter between your fingertips. Add the
vegetable shortening, toss to coat with the flour
mixture, and then flatten into pieces a little bigger than
the butter. (Using just the tips of your fingers helps
produce a flaky crust.)
Sprinkle ¾ cup of the ice water over the flour mixture
and gently toss to incorporate. Use a rubber spatula to
push the dry flour into the liquid, but do not stir the
mixture. This gentle process of “hydrating” the flour
without stirring makes all the difference. If the mixture
is too dry and won’t come together when you gently
squeeze a handful, sprinkle with another tablespoon
of water and toss again. Continue the process until
the dough just holds together, adding as little water
and handling the dough as little as possible. Some dry
patches and crumbs are okay— they will moisten as
the dough rests.
Divide the dough into 2 balls, flatten into disks, and
wrap well in plastic. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or
overnight. The dough can be frozen for up to a month;
thaw overnight in the refrigerator.
ingredients for pie dough:
· 3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling
· 1 teaspoon salt
· 10 tablespoons (1 1⁄4 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into
small cubes and chilled
· 1⁄2 cup plus 2 tablespoons vegetable shortening, chilled
· Up to 1 cup ice water
R E C I P E I N D E X
84 R E C I P E I N D E X
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Cut the fennel bulb in half, then cut each half into three
wedges. Arrange in a small baking dish and drizzle with the
olive oil. Measure in 1/4 cup water, sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon
salt, cover with foil, and bake until tender (about one hour).
Cool. Move the fennel to a cutting board and pull off any
fibrous outer layers, cut out and discard the pieces of core
holding each wedge together, then chop the remainder into
small pieces.
While the fennel is cooking, scoop the apple pieces into a bowl
and sprinkle them with the lime juice. Toss to combine, and
refrigerate until ready to use. Cut the avocado into halves and
scoop the flesh from each into a large bowl. With a large fork,
the back of a large spoon, or an old-fashioned potato masher,
coarsely mash the avocado.
Add the thyme, chopped pepper, apples (including all of the
lime juice) and the chopped fennel to the avocado and stir to
combine. Taste and season with salt. Serve with Kohlrabi spears
or your favorite tortilla chips.
recipe: apple fennel guacamole
by Rick Bayless, Frontera Grill Executive Chef
serves 8
ingredients:
· 1 medium fennel bulb, stalks and fronds cut off
· 1 tablespoon olive oil
· salt, to taste
· 1/2 medium apple (a crisp-textured one like Granny Smith
works well here), peeled, cored and cut into 1/4-inch pieces
· 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
· 3 ripe medium-large avocados
· 1 generous teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
· 1 large fresh serrano or 1 small jalapeño, stemmed, seeded
if you wish and finely chopped
85R E C I P E I N D E X
serves 6
Tie up the bay leaf, thyme, cloves, and coriander in a piece of
cheesecloth to make a sachet.
In a large pot, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium-low heat. Add
the leeks, shallots, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the
leeks are softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the cubed squash and carrots,
season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, for a few minutes.
Increase the heat to high, add the orange juice, and simmer until
reduced by half. Add the broth, allspice, cinnamon, and sachet, bring to
a simmer, and cook until the squash and carrots are very tender, about
35 minutes. Remove from the heat.
In a small saucepan, cook 3 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat
until it melts and the milk solids turn golden brown, about 2 minutes.
Stir the browned butter into the soup, along with the honey.
Discard the sachet and set aside 1½ cups of the soup broth. Process the
remaining soup in batches in a blender until very smooth and creamy,
then pass through a fine-mesh strainer back into the pot. Thin the soup
as needed with the reserved liquid; I prefer a thin consistency. Season
with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, cover, and keep hot.
In a very small saucepan, cover the finely diced squash with an inch of
water, bring to a simmer, and cook until just tender, about 3 minutes.
Drain the squash, toss with the remaining ½ tablespoon butter, and
season with salt.
Meanwhile, in a small skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil over
medium-high heat, then add the Brussels sprout leaves and toss for a
minute. Add a splash of water and continue to cook for 1 to 2 minutes.
Drain and season with salt.
Ladle the soup into bowls, then top with the diced squash, apples, and
Brussels sprout leaves.
red kuri squash soup with brussels sprouts and apples
by Michael Anthony, Gramercy Tavern Executive Chef
ingredients:
· 1 bay leaf
· 1 sprig thyme
· 2 cloves
· 1 teaspoon coriander seeds
· 3 tablespoons olive oil
· 2 medium leeks (white parts), halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
· 5 shallots, thinly sliced
· 1 garlic clove, minced
· 6 cups peeled, seeded, and cubed red kuri squash,
plus 1⁄2 cup finely diced
· 2 medium carrots, sliced
· Salt and pepper
· 1⁄2 cup orange juice
· 6 cups Vegetable Broth (page 118) or water
· 1⁄8 teaspoon ground allspice
· 1⁄8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
· 31⁄2 tablespoons unsalted butter
· 1 tablespoon honey
· Fresh lemon juice
· Large leaves from 6 Brussels sprouts
· 1⁄2 cup peeled, cored, and finely diced sweet firm apple,
such as Honeycrisp, tossed with a little
· lemon juice
86 R E C I P E I N D E X
Combine all ingredients in a mixing
glass, add ice, stir and pour into
coupe. Express oils of lemon swath,
discard swath and enjoy.
ingredients:
· 1 ½ oz. Atlantico Private Cask Rum
· ½ oz. Famous Grouse
· .75 oz. Wild Turkey Rye
· ½ oz. Cocchi Americano
· ¼ oz. Benedictine
serves 4
berkshire room’s beginning to end (abbreviated version)
by Johnny Costello
87R E C I P E I N D E X
ingredients:
· 1 c. sugar plum puree
· 3 Tbs. Maple Syrup
· ¼ c. light brown sugar
· 1 c. half and half
· ½ c. cream
· ½ tsp agar agar (available at gourmet stores or online)
· Pinch of salt
makes 4
Pastry chef Della Gossett, the medal-winning
former pastry chef at Charlie Trotter’s, is now
the executive pastry chef at Wolfgang Puck’s
Spago Beverly Hills. Her Sugar Plum Panna
Cotta is simple to make, delicious and turns a
classic recipe into world class holiday fare.
Blend sugar plum puree and maple syrup together,
set aside.
Whisk cream, half and half, brown sugar, agar agar
and salt together.
Bring cream mixture to a boil. Whisk sugar plum
puree and maple syrup into the hot cream mixture.
Immediately pour into molds or cups. Chill until cold
and set.
When set, invert the panna cotta onto a plate. Serve
with a drizzle of maple syrup, fresh persimmon and
gingersnap crumbs.
sugar plum panna cotta with bourbon barrel aged maple syrup
by Della Gossett, Wolfgang Puck’s Spago Beverly Hills
88 R E C I P E I N D E X
makes 24 bars
sugar plum & smoked almond linzer squares with spiced butterscotch cream
by Mindy Segal, Mindy’s Hot Chocolate
James Beard Best Pastry Chef 2012, and restaurateur,
Mindy Segal, created Sugar Plum & Smoked Almond
Linzer Squares with Spiced Butterscotch Cream.
She added almond paste and a touch of whiskey to
compliment the sweetness of the persimmons.
89R E C I P E I N D E X
to make linzer squares:
In a Cuisinart or grinder, combine almonds & 1 cup
of flour. Grind until almonds are powder. Combine
with rest of dry ingredients and set aside.
In a mixer, with a paddle attachment, cream batter
and sugar until light and fluffy. Add yolks one at a
time and mix until combined. Scrape bowl and make
homogeneous. Add all dry ingredients and vanilla
extract and orange zest Mix on low until combined.
Scrape bowl and bring together completely. Spray a
half sheet pan with vegetable spray and line with
parchment paper. Spray again.Spread evenly on
sheet pan (approx. 2/3 of batter). Combine sugar
plum puree and apple butter thoroughly. Spread
evenly on top of linzer batter. Combine rest of
batter with the 3 egg whites and mix thoroughly
until combined. With a pastry bag and a pastry tip
(approx. ¼ in. diameter) fill the bag with batter. Pipe
horizontal line from one end of sheet pan to the
other about ½ in. apart. Then, do the same thing
vertically to create a lattice pattern. Bake in a 350°
oven for approx. 25-30 minutes. Let Cool. When cool,
remove pastry from sheet pan and put onto a cutting
board. Cut lattice square into 1 inch squares. Serve
warm with a dollop of Spiced Butterscotch Cream.
to make butterscoth cream:
In a heavy duty sauce pot, heat cream until hot
While heating, toast all spices until hot and crush
into a powder. Steep with the vanilla bean in hot
cream. In another heavy duty sauce pot, over
medium heat, melt sugars, salt and butter just until
melted. Add hot spiced cream slowly, reducing a
little before adding more. Strain spices out from
butterscotch. Taste sauce and adjust seasoning.
Should taste slightly salty. Let cool to room temp.
Whip remaining cups of cream to soft peaks. Add
cooled butterscotch to taste. Preserve leftover
butterscotch for later use. Can be stored in
refrigerator for two weeks
ingredients for linzer squares:
· 12 oz butter (room temperature)
· 1 cup granulated sugar
· 1 ½ cups smoked almonds
· 3 eggs (separated)
· 3 cups of all purpose flour
· ½ tbsp. baking powder
· 1 tsp. kosher salt or sea salt
· ½ tsp. cinnamon
· Pinch nutmeg
· ½ cup “sugar plum” or persimmon pulp
· ½ cup apple butter
· ¼ tsp. vanilla extract
· Zest of 1 orange
ingredients for butterscoth cream:
· 1/2 cup light brown sugar
· 1/2 cup dark brown sugar
· 1/2 cup butter
· 1 tsp. salt
· 2 cups heavy cream + 2 cups for whipping
· 2 each cinnamon whole
· ½ whole nutmeg
· 1 tsp. whole black pepper
· 1 each vanilla bean
90 R E C I P E I N D E X
serves 4 to 6
sticky toffee sugar plum pudding and sugar plum gelato
by Elizabeth Falkner, Consulting Chef, Iron Chef America, Top Chef Masters
Chef Elizabeth Falkner has competed on Iron Chef
America, been a judge on Top Chef and Top Chefs
Masters and has had many other TV appearances.
Already a lover of fuyu and hachiya persimmons,
Elizabeth created Sugar Plum Pudding and Sugar Plum
Gelato with Burton’s Sugar Plum Pureé.
91R E C I P E I N D E X
to make puddin:
Preheat oven to 325˚. Bring water
to boil and add baking soda. Stir in
persimmon puree and set aside to
cool. Cream butter, brown sugar and
maple syrup together in a mixer. Mix
in eggs, one at a time. Stir in flour,
baking powder and salt, add the
persimmon mixture and stir until
smooth. Pour into a loaf pan, cover
with foil and place in a water bath.
Bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until set
to serve:
Slice or spoon some of the pudding
onto each plate. Spoon toffee sauce
over and garnish with a little more
maple syrup, slash of bourbon
(optional) and fresh pecans or walnuts.
Finish with scoop of Sugar Plum Gelato.
to make sauce:
Combine the butter, cream, sugar
and syrup in a medium saucepan and
bring to a boil. Reduce temperature
and simmer about 5 minutes or until
slightly thicker. Add vanilla and salt.
to make gelato:
Combine the milk and cream in a
saucepan and bring just to a boil,
remove from heat. Meanwhile, whisk
the yolks and sugar together. Temper
the milk (add a small portion) into
the yolks and sugar and whisk. Add
all the milk to the egg mixture. Pour it
back into the saucepan and cook over
medium heat until it thickens slightly.
Add the persimmon puree and salt.
Pour into a freezer proof container,
cover with plastic wrap and freeze
until solid.
ingredients for pudding:
· 1/2 cup persimmon purée
· 1 (8 g.) teaspoon baking soda
· 1/2 cup water
· 1/4 cup butter
· 1/2 cup brown sugar
· 1/2 cup maple syrup
· 2 eggs
· 7/8 cup (7 oz.) all purpose flour
· 1 1/2 (12 g.) teaspoons baking powder
· 1/4 teaspoon salt
ingredients for sauce:
· 1/4 cup butter
· 8 oz heavy cream
· 5/8 cup (5 oz) brown sugar
· 1/4 cup maple syrup
· 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
· 1/4 teaspoon salt
ingredients for gelato:
· 1 quart milk
· 8 oz heavy cream
· 4 egg yolks
· 3/4 cup sugar
· 1 cup persimmon puree
· 1/2 teaspoon salt
92 R E C I P E I N D E X
Indiana native, Paula Haney, is a pastry chef, author and
owner of Hoosier Mama Pie Company. She also is no stranger
to persimmons and gives classic pumpkin pie some stiff
competition with her Persimmon Pie recipe from her new book,
Hoosier Mama Book of Pie.
Preheat the oven to 350F (180C). Using a spatula or the back of a serving
spoon, press the pulp through a tami or fine-mesh strainer. Place the
persimmon pulp in a medium bowl and sprinkle the orange zest over
it. Whisk in the eggs, cream, butter, and vanilla paste, stirring well after
each addition. In a separate bowl, combine the granulated sugar, brown
sugar, cinnamon, mace and salt. Whisk or mix with your hands to break
up the brown sugar until thoroughly combined. Add the dry ingredients
to the persimmon mixture and whisk until just combined. Pour the
filling into the pie shell and bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until the
edge of the pie is slightly puffed and the center of the pie is dry to the
touch. The top of the pie will color slightly. Cool to room temperature
and then chill in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours, up to overnight,
before slicing.
The baked pie can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Do not
store the pie at room temperature.
persimmon pie
by Paula Haney, Hoosier Mama Pie Company (from The Hoosier Mama Book of Pie: Recipes, Techniques,
and Wisdom from the Hoosier Mama Pie Company)
ingredients:
· 1 single-crust blind-baked pie dough shell
· 1 cup strained American persimmon pulp
· zest of 1/2 orange
· 3 large eggs
· 1 cup (237 ml) heavy cream
· 1 Tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
· 1 teaspoon vanilla paste
· 2/3 cup granulated sugar
· 2 Tablespoons dark brown sugar
· 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
· 1/4 teaspoon ground mace
· 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
93R E C I P E I N D E X
ingredients:
· 6 large Russet baking potatoes
· 1/4 cup crème fraîche
· 1/2 cup ricotta cheese
· 2 egg yolks
· 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
· 2 teaspoons garlic salt
· 1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
· Juice of half a lemon
makes 6Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Wash potatoes
well and pierce several times with a fork.
Season with salt and freshly ground black
pepper. Wrap in foil and place directly onto
oven rack for approximately 1 hour. When
potatoes are cooked through, you should be
able to easily pass a pairing knife into the
centers. Cut the top third off the potatoes,
scooping out approximately 80% of the
“flesh” and set aside. You should now have
canoe-shaped potato shells. Pass potato
flesh through a food mill into a mixing bowl.
Add all ingredients from the crème fraîche
to the lemon juice. Fold together until well
combined but without over-mixing. Reserve
one third of mixture and place in piping
twice baked potatoes
by John-Gustin Birkitt, The French Hound Chef and Owner
garniture:
· 6 scallions, sliced
· 6 strips of bacon, cooked and chopped
· 2 ounces grated cheddar cheese, divided
· 1 tablespoon lemon confit, minced
· 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon
· 1/2 teaspoon garlic salt
bag fitted with a large star tip. Add all
remaining ingredients: bacon, cheddar
(reserving half an ounce), scallions,
tarragon, lemon confit & garlic salt. Fold to
combine.
Using a spoon, fill each cavity of potato
shells a little past full. Now using the
piping bag with reserved potato mixture,
pipe the top of each potato. Sprinkle
reserved grated cheddar cheese on top of
each potato.
Baked stuffed potatoes for 15-18 minutes
or until a thermometer inserted into the
center reaches 155 degrees. Garnish with a
sprinkle of chives.
94 R E C I P E I N D E X
ingredients:
· 1 ½ pounds New Mexico green chile peppers, roasted, peeled,
seeded and diced
· 2 tablespoons grape seed oil or other clean-flavored cooking oil
· 4 pounds leftover turkey meat (dark meat is preferable)
· 3 cups yellow onion, peeled and diced
· 8 cloves fresh garlic, peeled and sliced
· 2 tablespoons ancho or other dried chile powder
· 1½ tablespoons ground cumin
· 12 ounces green tomatillos, husks removed and finely diced
· 4 cups turkey or low-sodium chicken broth
· 1 cup canned tomatoes, drained
· 1/2 cup cilantro leaves, roughly chopped
· 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
makes 8
Shred turkey into bite-sized pieces. Pour the oil in a
large, heavy pot; over medium heat sweat the garlic
and onions until translucent. Add the tomatillos
and continue to cook an additional 5 minutes before
adding all remaining ingredients except the turkey
and lime juice. Cook at a low simmer for 1½ hours.
During the last ten minutes, add the leftover turkey
and lime juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Place your favorite toppings in small bowls and serve
alongside the turkey.
new mexican green chile turkey
by Justin Brunson, Old Major Executive Chef
optional toppings:
· 8 eggs, poached, over-easy or sous vide
· 16 ounces grated cheddar or pepper jack cheese
· 3 limes, quartered
· 1 cup cilantro, chopped
· 3 jalapeño peppers, thinly sliced
· 12 each corn and flour tortillas, warmed
· 8 ounces sour cream
95
Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Make the custard base: In a
large mixing bowl, whisk together the half and half, egg
yolks, eggs, and salt. Set aside.
In a small sauté pan, add the butter, onion, garlic and
sage, and cook over medium-low heat until the onion
softens and becomes translucent. Remove from heat
and add the shredded turkey and cubed dinner rolls. Mix
together and divide into tall ramekins (for individual
portions) or a small hotel pan (for one large bread
pudding).
Pour the custard base over the bread pudding and press
down. Let sit at least one hour, but preferably overnight.
Cover with foil and bake in a water bath for 30 minutes.
Remove foil and glaze the pudding with cranberry sauce.
Return to oven and bake for an additional 10-15 minutes,
until slightly browned. Serve with leftover gravy, if
desired.
thanksgiving pudding
by Tim Havidic, iNG Executive Chef
ingredients:
· 2 cups half and half
· 4 egg yolks
· 2 whole eggs
· 1 tablespoon salt
· 1 tablespoon butter
· 1 small onion, diced
· 4 cloves garlic, minced
· 2 large sage leaves
· 1 cup turkey leg meat, shredded
· 4-5 small dinner rolls, cut into 1-inch cubes
makes 4
R E C I P E I N D E X
96 R E C I P E I N D E X
kale recipes
by Judith Mara
kale chips
Preheat oven to 300 degrees F. Line a
large baking sheet with parchment paper.
Place 2 cups torn kale leaves in a large
bowl and toss with 1 tablespoon olive oil.
Transfer to the prepared baking sheet,
laying all the leaves flat. Sprinkle with 1/4
teaspoon salt or other seasonings. Bake
for 20 to 25 minutes or until crisp. Serve
right away.
Note: The lower the temperature kale
chips are baked at, the longer they will
keep. You can bake them at 170˚ to 200˚,
just increase the baking time to 1 to 2
hours. Check for doneness every
30 minutes.
sautéed kale
For the best results when sautéing, use Cavolo
Nero or young, tender curly kale leaves.
For 4 side dish servings use about 1 1/2 - 2
pounds of kale, 3 tablespoons olive oil, 2 cloves
of garlic––sliced thin crosswise, some chicken
broth or water, salt and 2 tablespoons fresh
lemon juice or red wine vinegar.
Wash kale, remove any tough ribs and tear or
cut leaves into pieces. Slice garlic and measure
out 1/2 cup of broth. In a large sauté or sauce
pan (with a cover) heat the olive oil over
medium-high heat. Add the garlic, stir but do
not brown. Add the broth and the kale then
toss (a tong works best) to combine. Cover
and cook for about 5 to 6 minutes. Remove
the cover, and cook until the broth has
evaporated. Turn the heat down, sprinkle on
some salt and add the lemon juice or vinegar.
Toss and serve.
grilled kale
Try this to accompany grilled steaks
or sausages.
Heat grill to medium high. Wash and dry
a bunch of kale. In a big bowl, add about
2 tablespoons of olive oil. Season the olive
oil with any combination of crushed or
minced garlic, red pepper flakes, fresh
pepper, fresh lemon juice and/or red wine
or balsamic vinegar. (Short cut: use leftover
vinaigrette as the base.) Whisk the olive oil
mixture and taste for balance and adjust.
Toss the kale leaves in the bowl to evenly
coat. Sprinkle with sea salt.
Position kale leaves on a portable grill pan
and place on grill. They will cook fast. Grill
kale for 2 minutes and turn. Check to see
of they are crisp. If not, grill 1 to 2 minutes
longer. You can cut any tough stems from
the leaves before serving or just serve as is.
97R E C I P E I N D E X
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