where® thailand june 2016

®

W W W . W H E R E T H A I L A N D . C O M

LES CLEFS D’OR THAIL ANDTHE PREFERRED PUBLICATION OF YOUR HOTEL CONCIERGE

Thailand PLU

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J U N E 2 0 1 6THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

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2 WHERE THAILAND I JUNE 2016

❀ Foot Massage & Foot Scrub 999 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ Traditional Thai Massage 999 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ Oil/Aromatherapy Oil Massage 999 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ 4 Hands Massage 1,499 THB/ 2 Hrs

❀ Thai Massage & Body Scrub 1,499 THB/ 2 Hrs

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❀ 4 Hands Massage & Body Scrub 1,999 THB/ 2 Hrs

What a great way to end a hectic day of travel, work or sightseeing

We provide inside & outside massage service 24 hour 7 Days/week

Address: 6/9 Soi Phom Sri 1, Sukhumvit 39 Klongton-Nua, Wattana Bangkok 10110

www.baanthaitouch.com. Nearest BTS: Phom Phong Station

Call us to schedule your appointment at Mobile. 082-111-2213, Tel. 02-662-6623.

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29 HEALTH+WELLNESSThe city's most luxurious spa treatments.

30 ATTRACTIONSLive shows that offer a true taste of Thai culture.

31 ARTThis month's must-visit exhibitions and galleries.

628 NIGHTLIFERooftop bars that will take your breath away.

ALSO INSIDE

4 HOT DATES

34 21 THINGS WE LOVE

The GuideBANGKOK

CONTENTSwhere® l THAILAND l JUNE 2016

33 NAVIGATEEssential tips on getting around.

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, Room A, 100 North Sathorn Rd. Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: [email protected]

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Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

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MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton

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12

20

Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon

Editor-in-Chief/Product Director Grégoire Glachant

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine

Deputy Editor Carl Dixon

Features Associate Monruedee Jansuttipan

Marketing Executive Plaifon Chienvichai

Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo

Art Director Dith Chang

Deputy Art Director Panita Thiraphapong

Where Designer Wariya Whangwaewklang

Contributors Vasachol Quadri, Lily Kittisrikangwan, Natcha Saguankiattichai, Bonnie Sananvatananont

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

Account Manager Suda Angsuputiphant

Intern Joseph Lam

Cover by Panita Thiraphapong

BOUTIQUE BANGKOK

The city's coolest shops for innovative local design.

DINING12 BIG BREAKFAST Bangkok's best places to eat the most important meal of the day.

EXPLORING20 UPPER SILOM This bustling business district has it all, from fresh markets and galleries to some of Bangkok's finest dining.

22 CHINATOWN The crumbling streets of Yaowarat are home to Bangkok's best street food plus happening new bars and galleries.

25 DININGHip restaurants taking Thai flavors in exciting new directions.

Where Thailand is proud to be an associated publication of the Thailand Chapter of Les Clefs d'Or (the International Concierge Association).

AROUND THAILAND16 NEW WAVE The latest seaside attractions in Hua Hin.

JUNE 2016 I WHERE THAILAND 3

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Y whereHOT DATES WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

JUNE 2

O BOY

Damien Rice, the popular Irish singer/songwriter known for his soulful voice and stripped-down, emotional perfor-mances, takes the Bangkok stage to promote his latest album, My Favorite Faded Fantasy. Aside from new hits, expect fan favorites including “Can-nonball” and “The Blower’s Daughter”.

Tickets are B1,000-3,000 from Thaiticketmajor.com. Bangkok Convention Hall, Central Lad Phrao, 1695 Phaholyothin Rd.

JUNE 10-12

HUNGER BUSTER

Urban Eatery is a wildly popular Bang-kok foodie fair specializing in campfire favorites, steaks and hot dogs. When it takes over the grounds of one of the city’s most popular malls, expect not just food but also stalls selling fashion and handicrafts items, plus plenty of live music and workshops.

CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom

JUNE 16-19

A KIND OF MAGIC

The American-Japanese magician Cyril Takayama made a name for himself through viral videos on You-tube and has come to be known as magic’s first cyber celebrity. Now, he takes over the Bangkok stage for Cyril Magic Up Close & Personal Live in Bangkok, an act filled with world-class magic acts that are guaranteed to leave you in disbelief.

Tickets are B1,500-4,800 from Thaiticketmajor.com. K-Bank Siam Theater, Siam Square One, Rama 1 Rd., 02-257-2899. BTS Siam

JUNE 10-19

GENDER PERSPECTIVES

The Bangkok Gay and Lesbian Film Festival returns for its second edition this month at one of the city’s most luxurious cinemas. Under the theme “Love Wins”, 12 films from around the world will be screened across 10 days, including Handl Klaus’ 2016 Tom-cat, Lee Dong Ha’s 2015 Weekends, Andrew Ahn’s 2016 Spa Night, Ara Chawdhury’s 2015 Miss Bulalacao, in a promotion of sexual equality and gender rights.

Quartier Cineart, Emquartier, Sukhumvit Soi 24. BTS Phrom Phong

JUNE 11

ON THE ROADOne of the city’s biggest EDM festivals, Road to Ultra, this year welcomes Avicii, known for his massive hits “Wake Me Up” and “Hey Brother”, and Martin Garrix, the DJ behind “Turn Up the Speakers” and “Forbidden Voices.” The two will be joined by other big EDM names including Jauz, Sunnery James & Ryan Marciano, Ninegod and Skinny Mark & Zuper L.

Tickets are B2,400, available now at thai-land.roadtoultra.com. BITEC

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ROSEMAN ZETTINO

ROSEMANThis eyewear brand’s products are designed in Bangkok but made in Japan. The multi-label shop also features fashion items hand-picked by the owners from all over the world.

Good for: Quality, unisex sunglasses with pocket-friendly price-tags plus some hard-to-find items from cult international names like Australian menswear brand W.G. Trunk Co. and Japan’s Makoto Matsuo.

1497 Rama 4 Soi 11 (Chulalongkorn), 081-444-2642. Open Wed-Sun noon- 8pm. www.roseman-club.com

STATEMENTThis bright white multi-label store gathers a number of fresh-faced Thai designers who don’t yet have their own showrooms. They also offer cold brew coffee, granola and cocktails (on weekends).

Good for: The focus is definitely on wom-enswear, from smart-casual to night looks, with brands including Pin & Tux and Ana-man, while there are also mobile accesso-ries from Another Case, leather bags from Chatt Material, aromatic candles from Ma Chandelle and a small selection of Rams men’s accessories

Thonglor Soi 11, 02-003-6973. Open Sun-Thu 11am-10pm; Fri-Sat 11am-midnight. www.facebook.com/statementofficialbkk

ZETTINOLocated opposite La Monita restaurant in Mahatun Plaza, this men’s accessories shop began life as an online leatherware store be-fore expanding to a proper showroom.

Good for: Affordable leather wallets and messenger bags for men.

G/F, Mahutan Plaza, 888 Phloenchit Rd., 088-950-5564. Open Mon-Sat 11am-7:30pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www.facebook.com/Zettino

THAILAND BY DESIGNEighteen great shops in Bangkok to find unique gifts from Thai designers. By Vasachol Quadri

STATEMENT


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INDIGO TO INDIAN

INDIGO TO INDIAN 2/7 TWICE A WEEK

INDIGO TO INDIANThe former online business of Blue Dye Cafe’s owner has been turned into a proper shop, stocking Thai handicraft products with an emphasis on indigo, silver accessories and home decor.

Good for: Indigo dye work sourced from Northern Thailand that’s designed by the owner, ceramic pieces like coffee drippers and cute stuffed owls and foxes.

2/F, Blue Dye Cafe, Sukhumvit Soi 36, 083-714-5333. Open Mon 1-6pm and Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. www.face-book.com/indigotoindian

2/7 TWICE A WEEK This concept store for Thai designer items also features a corner devoted to old Pola-roid cameras and a cafe featuring nitro cold brew coffee from local roasters Finca de Barn. Note that it only opens weekends.

Good for: Deadstock Polaroid cameras and film plus items from up-and-coming Thai designers like Ease Embroidery wall decor, A Pale Petal tote bags, Sattawat furniture and Pana Objects home decor.

208 Chulalongkorn Soi 50, Rama 4 Rd., 087-507-1997. Open Sat-Sun 10:30am-9pm. www.facebook.com/27twiceaweek

CONCIERGE PICKS Where do you recommend your guests go shopping?

Mayshi Cheepat Millenium Hilton

Our guests love Asiatique (2194 Charoen Krung Rd.) because not only is it a great riverside shop-ping destination, but you can also have a lovely meal there and watch traditional performances like Calypso. For something more central, we recom-mend Siam Square because there are plenty of lo-cal fashion brands.

Panu Inta JW Marriot

For guests that like brand names we always rec-ommend Siam Paragon (Rama 1 Rd.) or Central Embassy (1031 Phloenchit Rd.). However, those who want a more local experience and don’t mind bargaining a little, we tell them to head to either MBK (444 Phayathai Rd.) or Pratunam (Ratcha-thewi Rd.).

Athipol Soonthornsingh St. Regis

Every tourist out there has heard of Emquartier and Siam Paragon, but we like to recommend more lo-cal destinations—for instance, our favorite night markets are JJ Green (Kampaengphet Rd.) and Talad Rot Fai (99 Ratchadaphisek Rd.). You can find everything there: clothes, accessories, food and live music.


WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM


HERITAGE CRAFT AND CAFERun by Thai Craft Fair Trade, this outlet aims to promote local, self-supporting so-cial enterprises and hosts handmade mar-kets on a monthly basis.

Good for: Organic and handmade prod-ucts like stools from Lahu craftsmen in Northern Thailand.

35 Bamrung Muang Rd., 02-221-1330. Open Mon-Fri 11am-6pm. www.heritagecraft.org

GIN & MILK Devoted to showcasing the best in Thai fashion, Siam Center is home to both estab-lished and rising brands, as well as intrigu-ing multi-label stores. Gin & Milk focuses on menswear and accessories by reputed Thai designers like P.Mith, Meticulous and SSAP as well as emerging names like Lei-sure Projects Store and Love Supreme.

Good for: Dressy and vintage fashion, tai-lored suits and men’s streetwear.

3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam. www.facebook.com/ginandmilkstore

ORGANIC SUPPLYCo-owned by melancholic local rock sing-er-songwriter Greasy Cafe, this clean-look-ing organic shop is an oasis for the health-conscious. A cafe zone offers healthy snacks like vegan bread, cold-pressed juice and smoothies while a proper shop stocks many organic beauty and food products.

Good for: Natural-made goods, from skin-care and baby products, to food products like brown rice pasta and tea.

148 Nakniwas Rd., 02-101-6410 Open Mon-Sun 10am-8pm. www.facebook.com/organicsupply.bkk

THE WONDER ROOMIf Gin & Milk is for men, The Wonder Room is Siam Center’s multi-label store for la-dies. The store stocks Thai designer label women’s accessories and clothing from eight of the city’s hottest designers. Every four months, the shop changes its decora-tive theme and rotates the brands featured.

Good for: Currently you can expect to find hot accessories from Virgin Daisies vintage swimwear and Isawan leather bags to Es-tro cosmetics.

3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1098. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam. www.facebook.com/thewonderroomstore

THE SELECTED This multi-label store showcases the very best in emerging Thai talent not only in fashion and accessories but also home decor and beauty products. Here, you’ll find brands like Con-tainer (www.containerbag.net), which pro-duces leather bags for dandy gentlemen, the funky-yet-classy swimwear of Timo (www.timotrunks.com) and Praat home fragrances. The highlight is their monthly collaboration project resulting in limited-edition products.

Good for: Quality designs from Thai brands on the rise.

3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1378. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam. www.facebook.com/theselected

GOOD DESIGN STORE

The Japan Institute for Design Promotion (JDP) has teamed up with Shane Suvi-kapakornkul of Serindia Gallery and Hard-cover Book Store to launch a new boutique dedicated to award-winning design from Japan's Good Design (or G Mark) Award.

Good for: Shopping for award-winning products from Thailand as well as iconic pieces from Japan.

4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5686. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www.facebook.com/gooddesignstore

THE SELECTED

GOOD DESIGN STORE

THE WONDER ROOM


Y whereSHOPPING


LUXX

stay with LUXX in bangkokSILOM +662 635 8800 [email protected] +662 684 1111 [email protected]

LUXXhotelwww.staywithluxx.com

METTIQUE This luxury leather accessories brand is run by Met Hentrakul, whose family has a long history in leather making. The spe-cialty is handbags, briefcases and tote bags, as well as smaller accessories, all made from exotic leathers like South Af-rican ostrich, Italian buffalo and crocodile.

Good for: These pieces are packed with attitude and the quality is worth invest-ing in. They also offer customization, too, where you can have your name engraved on your new purchase.

2/F, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-656-1114. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www.mettique.com

LIVE LIKE HOUNDThis is the brand new concept store from Greyhound, one of Thailand’s longest-standing fashion houses. This is actually a revamp of the brand’s existing flagship store to offer more than just fashion, blending in lifestyle products from leading Thai designers.

Good for: New and limited edition collec-tions from Greyhound, as well as home decor and accessories from brands like Pana Objects, A.Palepetal and Erb.

1/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-7894. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam. www.greyhound.co.th

ANYROOMLeading local architect Duangrit Bunnag’s The Jam Factory is one riverside complex worth visiting as it packs together an in-dependent bookshop, an art space, cafes and restaurants and this furniture/multi-brand store. While the main focus here is on big furniture pieces from his own brand and other Thai designers, you can also find smaller decorative items, too.

Good for: Well-designed furniture and home decor by emerging designers like All-tag and PDM, plus fashion from Lonely Two Legged Creature, vegetable-tanned watch-es from Tathata and Grey Ray stationery.

41/1/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-861-0955. Open Mon-Sun 11am-8pm. www.facebook.com/any-roomTM

METTIQUE METTIQUE

LIVE LIKE HOUND

LIVE LIKE HOUND




IT’S HAPPENED TO BE A CLOSETThis curiously named bohemian fashion brand has been big on the Bangkok scene since 2004, but it just recently settled into its permanent location on Sukhumvit Soi 23. The old house-turned-lifestyle shop combines fashion shop, gift corner, restau-rant zone, nail service, foot massage and various workshops throughout the week.

Good for: Shop for the brand’s new col-lection, jewelry and other selections from Thai designer brands like Good After Nine. We also recommended the jewelry-mak-ing workshops, too.

Sukhumvit Soi 23, 081-565-2026. Open daily 8am-midnight. www.facebook.com/happenedtobe

ANOTHER STORYThis concept store gathers designer prod-ucts from all over the world with a heavy focus on stationery and home decor, plus some fashion. The huge one-stop space also comprises a gallery, cafe and flower shop.

Good for: Aside from the imports, you’ll find product from Thai designers like Grey Ray stationery, Plural Design home decor and Thinkk Studio pendant lamps.

4/F, The Emquartier, Helix Building, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003-6138/9. BTS Phrom Phong. www.facebook.com/AnotherStoryOfficial

FEATHERSTONEThis charming bohemian-themed shop of-fers a one-stop service of food and shop-ping. The cafe serves up coffee and West-ern comfort food, while the shelves feature gypsy-style accessories designed by the owner and made by local craftsmen from all over Thailand.

Good for: We really like the feather ear-ring and stone jewelry that come with very pocket-friendly prices.

60 Ekkamai Soi 12, 097-058-6846. Open Wed-Mon 10:30am-10pm. www.facebook.com/featherstonecafe

ROOM FACTORY This is one of Bangkok’s longest-standing multi-label stores for locally designed home decor (though they stock interna-tional brands, too). Its new openings at Central Embassy and Emquartier see a larger selection of Thai designer brands, mostly mid-size furniture and smaller decorative items.

Good for: Unique desktop objects from international and Thai designers.

4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www.facebook.com/roomconceptstore

After a year of renovations, Siam Discovery mall reopened to the public last month, 2016, with a bright, futuristic design courtesy of Jap-anese artist Oki Sato. Most floors have a “lab” theme: Her Lab for ladies’ fashion, His Lab for men’s fashion, Street Lab for street fashion, Digital Lab for tech products, etc., with another two floors taken up by a branch of Virgin Ac-tive Fitness. In terms of the brand focus, the mall focuses not only on Thai designers but also those from all over Asia. Expect Japanese cult labels like Yoshio Kubo, Discord by Yoji Yamamoto and Dress Undressed, plus new-in-town European names like Hackett (England) and innovative home decorative products from Hay (Denmark) and Tom Dixon (England). The mall is also home to Billboard Cafe, the first opening of its kind from the American enter-tainment media brand.

989 Rama 1 Rd., 02-2658-1000/19 and 02-687-5000. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam. www.siamdiscovery.co.th

SIAM DISCOVERY RE-OPENING

ANOTHER STORY FEATHERSTONE


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+ where I

Ngoh Tailor & Boutique“Customers come to us because ready-to-wear clothes don’t match their needs. They want something

unique that reflects their personality. Tailors can also act as advisers. We can change the pattern; the cloth is for one person only.”The Company: Jiraphon “Ngu” Jiraphonsakul, 35 and Jiraroj “Pro” Jiraphonsakul,32, had no plans to take over their family’s 41-year-old tailor’s shop on Rama I Road until their father passed away. But the brothers have now stood in to not only continue his legacy, but secure customers for the future, too.Get this: Tailor-made pants starting from B1,200Where: 66 Rama I Rd., Phathumwan, 083-018-1808, 02-214-1311. www.fb.com/ngohtailor

Pin & Tux“As my mom gets older, she wants to take a step back. I was looking at our business and thinking of ways to carry on. We have a lot of good

tailors and it would be a shame to stop going. We created Pin & Tux to connect our quality crafts-manship with ready-made, fashionable design.” The company: Co-founder, Sarit “James” Chok-chainirand, 39, comes from the family behind Supinda boutique, a women’s tailoring business established in 1971. He’s partnered with Natcha “Pong” Kanchanachitra, 28, a young designer who’s now using his family’s manufacturing facili-ties to create fashionable ready-to-wear items. Get this: Dress starts from B4,890Where: Supinda Boutique, 1/2-3 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-258-8620 Pin & Tux. Also available via www.pinandtux.com, 093-660-0655

31 Thanwa “Though our family’s leatherwear-making know-how is not directly for bags, it can easily be adapted. Also, our family always handled just

production, while others did the design and brand-ing. I stepped in and joined the dots.” The Company: Boonyanuch “Kae” Vitayasamrit, 29, founded women’s leather handbag 31 Thanwa back in late 2011. She’s the third generation behind an 80-year-old shoe factory and has adapted that know-how into producing contemporary hand-bags with high-end branding. Get this: The new Curios collection, starting from B13,500Where: 2/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd., 081-711-8031. BTS Phrom Phong. www.fb.com/31ThanwaShop

Pinky Tailor “My dad has built such a solid base of customers and craftsmanship. I am building on that with my own collections. Last month I exhibited

at Paris Fashion Week. We want to tell people we can do many things other than just normal suits.”The company: For years Pinky Tailor has been outfitting Bangkok’s business heads—the Thai owner of Leicester City Football Club, Vichai Srivaddhanaprabha, 31, was even wearing a Pinky suit when his team won on May 7. Now, Pinky’s son, Pawin Palitdejtakul, is expanding the compa-ny with fall/winter and spring/summer collections. Get this: Tailor-made pure wool suit, starting from B13,000 Where: Mahatun Plaza Arcade, 888/40 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-253-6328. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7:30pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www.pinkytailor.com

Ballet Shoes“Our grandma thinks we’d be bet-ter off taking salaried jobs than managing our own business. But I’ve grown up with this shoe busi-

ness, it’s instinctive to work here. I’ve opened a shop under the same name selling the same de-signs but in quirkier colors.” The company: Around for more than 60 years, Ballet Shoes is one of Bangkok’s oldest shoe shops; a tailor-made footwear company that ca-ters to a wide range of styles but specializes in bal-let shoes. Ponchanok Kongdechakul, 33, Pimpika Kongdechakul, 32, and Pasini Kongdechakul, 30, are the third generation of the family to work in the business. Get this: Ballet-style flats, starting from 2,250Where: 1/F, Siam Square One, Rama 1 Rd., 02-252-2464. BTS Siam. www.fb.com/BalletShoes

Mettique“My family had a leather manufac-turing company, making acces-sories on behalf of other brands. I launched Mettique at the end

of 2011 and since then we’ve grown to our own 64-sq-meter flagship store in Gaysorn.”The company: Brand creative director Met Heng-trakul capitalized on the craft skills of his family’s leather manufacturing business by launching his own brand of minimally styled bags and accesso-ries in exotic leathers like ostrich, Italian buffalo and crocodile. His Gaysorn flagship store also spe-cializes in smaller items including laptop covers, iPhone cases and even bow-ties. Get this: hand-tanned, non-stitched cigar cases, B3,000-4,000 (cow hide)Where: 2/F, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1114. www.mettique.com

BALLET SHOES

PINKY TAILOR

METTIQUE

MADE IN BANGKOK Meet six young entrepreneurs keeping the crafts-manship skills of their family businesses alive while tweaking their goods in new ways.


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SATHORNKUMI RESTAURANT & HEALTHY CORNERThis cafe puts strong emphasis on healthy food.

The clean bites go beyond salads to the likes

of sesame tuna Arabic quinoa, goat cheese

vegetarian mille feuille with roasted eggplant,

bell pepper, asparagus and pesto dressing and

wraps. They also do breakfast sets with fresh

juice, hot drinks, a choice of eggs and items like

toasted avocado, cherry tomatoes, rocket salad,

fruit salad and yogurt cornflakes.

71/2 Sathorn Soi 10, 02-635-3673. Open Wed-Mon 8am-9pm, Sat-Sun 9am-9:30pm

LUKASituated on leafy Pan Road, which runs from

the Hindu temple on Silom to the Myanmar

Embassy on Sathorn, Luka has fast become a

favorite with the local office workers. The menu

zeroes in on down-to-earth comfort food like

chicken sandwiches. Sauces, juices and pickles

are homemade, while the produce comes from

reputable names like Adams Organic, the Royal

Project Foundation and Sloane’s. The breakfast

burrito is a solid morning choice, served with

quinoa, scrambled egg, cheese, sausage, to-

mato salsa, avocado and “Thai chipotle” salsa.

Casa Pagoda, 64/1 Pan Rd., 02-637-8558. Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat-Sun 8:30am-7pm

ROCKET COFFEEBARFollowing the success of its first branch on Sath-

orn Soi 12, the stylish brunch-and- cocktail cafe

serves a winning formula of wholesome food,

freshly baked goods and artisanal coffee. The

highlight has to be the delightful breakfast menu

which includes dishes like house-made granola

served with yogurt and the now-mythical Rock-

et’s Benedict, pretty much the best version of

this overdone dish in town.

149 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-635-0404. Open daily 7am-9pm

RISE & SHINEBangkok’s best spots to get breakfast by neighborhood.

ROCKET COFFEEBAR

KUMI RESTAURANT

LUKA


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ASOKECHUBaker Chirayu na Ranong’s Chu started out

with a humble mission to churn out churros

and hot chocolate (still our favorite things on

the menu), but it also packs in the crowds with

its breakfast offerings. Top picks include the

eggs Benedict with bacon, scrambled eggs

with cherry tomato salsa and Joe Sloane’s cho-

rizo. The creamy, velvety, dark hot chocolate is

one of the best in town.

2/F, Exchange Tower, 388 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-663-4554. Open Mon-Fri 7:30am-9pm; Sat-Sun 8am-8pm. BTS Asok

Trinity Complex, Narathiwas Soi 3, 02-636-8685. Open Tue-Fri 7:30am-9pm; Sat-Sun 8am-9pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

KUPPAFor consistency and comfort, this brasserie is

one of Bangkok’s favorite places to spend a

slow Sunday. The coffee hits the spot, as do the

brunch staples like French toast (with berries,

whipped cream and maple syrup). You can

also try its younger brother, Kuppadeli (Asoke

Towers, Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-664-2350).

39 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-259-1954. Open daily 10am-11pm. MRT Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

GASTRO 1/6With its adorable garden and hanging green-

ery, this is one of the city’s best places for a

lazy, long brunch. The sweet dishes like the

fluffy French toast are delightful, but so too is

the poached egg with mushroom, asparagus

and truffle oil. Oh, and the menu was designed

by Bo Songvisava, one of the chefs behind ac-

claimed fine-dining restaurant Bo.lan.

RMA Studio, Sainamthip Soi 2, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 080-603-6421. Open Tue-Sun 8:30am-3:30pm.CHU




PHROM PHONG- THONGLOR-EKKAMAITAPERChef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn, of Le Du,

teamed up with his former classmate from the

Culinary Institute of America, Tatchapol “Toon”

Choomduang, to open this Asian-inspired

brunch restaurant. The exciting menu is headed

by the likes of congee with mushroom, pork

belly bacon, sous-vide egg, ginger and soy re-

duction and the Taper Benedict which includes

a homemade biscuit, eggs drizzled with hollan-

daise sauce and either grilled mushroom, thick-

cut bacon or smoked salmon.

44/11, Soi Akkapat, Thonglor Soi 13, 099-929-5464. Open Sat-Sun 9am-4pm

ROAST COFFEE & EATERYRoast remains high on most brunch-goers’

checklists, which means that, come the week-

end you can face some crazy queues. It’s with

good reason, too; on top of the great coffee, the

menu packs genuine crowd-pleasers like the

crab cake Benedict and smoked salmon with

rosti matched with lemon creme fraiche.

The Commons, Thonglor Soi 17, 02-185- 2865. Open Mon-Thu 10am-11pm, Fri-Sat 9am-11pm and Sun 9am-10pm.

Emquartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 094-176-3870. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong

ROCKET S49This is the third branch of Bangkok’s stylish

brunch-and-cocktail cafe (see page 12), Rock-

et. Pull up a stool in a space bursting with natu-

ral morning light thanks to the glasshouse-like

entrance, and tuck into Scandinavian classics

from muesli to open-face sandwiches. There’s

also a distinctly Nordic feel to the design, all

blond-wood furniture matched with marble

and geometric lighting sculptures.

1/F, Grease, Piman 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-

6637. Open Mon-Fri 7am-9pm; Sat-Sun 7am-11pm

CHIT LOM-PHLOEN CHITBROOKLYN BAKERA great place to escape the hustle and bustle,

nestled down a quiet soi at the entrance to Re-

treat on Vitayu spa. Grab a seat in the small

garden and go classic with the American

Breakfast (pancakes, bacon, sausages and

eggs) or try something a little more adven-

turous like shakshouka (Arabic style poached

egg, sausage and tomato).

51/7 Soi Polo, Wireless Rd., 081-855-7090. Open Thu-Tue 8am-5pm (last order 4.30pm)

TAPER

BLACK BOX

CREPES & CO


Y whereDINING


BLACK BOXThe brekkie menu (available daily from

7:30am-4pm) includes straight-up fare like

two eggs cooked any style, served with toast,

sausages, potato, grilled tomatoes and mini

salad. Still hungry? Order the Hungryman,

which adds bacon and pancakes to the regular

set. The star, though, is probably the pulled-

pork Benedict, a contender for the city’s ulti-

mate hipster breakfast.

Mahatun Plaza, 888/8-9 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-651-5188. Cafe open daily 7:30am-4:30pm; bar open Tue-Sat 5:30pm-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit

CREPES & COSweet and savory crepes are the order of the

day at this popular restaurant set in a charm-

ing white house. Great service and a nice gar-

den complete the picture. Try the savory crepe

supreme, filled with bacon, mushroom, cheese

and Bechamel sauce, all topped off with an

egg. The brunch set gets you one hot drink,

one fruit juice, yogurt and muesli, two eggs,

pancakes and more. There are also branches in

Thonglor (Eight Thonglor, Thonglor Soi 8, 02-

726-9398), Phrom Phong (B/F, Emquartier,

Sukhumvit Rd., 095-251-5233) and Siam (7/F,

CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd., 092-263-1386).

59/4 Lang Suan Soi 1, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-652-0208. Open Mon-Sat 9am-11pm; Sun 8am-11pm. BTS Chit Lom

RATTANAKOSINFARM TO TABLE, HIDEOUTNestled in a century-old Rama 5-era house,

the space may require some effort to find, but

the result is well worth it. Duck behind an old

fresh market and you’ll find a cozy, contempo-

rary-yet-rustic cafe that preserves the charm

of the original building while playing up to the

fresh market location with vegetable baskets

and metal food carts. The menu spans simple

European dishes like roast chicken salad with

house-made dressing plus Asian desserts such

as coconut rice dumpling paired with coconut-

butterfly pea ice cream.

15 Soi Tha Klang, 02-004-8771. Open Thu-Tue 10am-8pm

ELEFIN COFFEEElefin coffee roaster marked 10 years of opera-

tions by opening a third branch opposite Wat

Pho down by the riverside in the Old Town. The

cafe sources its coffee beans from Doi Chang,

Chiang Rai, and works with Seattle’s Lighthouse

Roastery to achieve the perfect roast. You’ll find

Thai favorites like khao tom (rice soup) as well

as Western breakfast dishes like pancakes.

394/1-2 394/1-2 Maharaj Rd., 02-622-1115. Open daily 7am-10pm. Museum Siam, 4 Sanam Chai Rd., Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm Hansar Bangkok, 3/250 Mahadlekluang Soi 2, Ratchadamri Rd. Open daily 7am-midnight

ON LOK YUNThe 80-year-old spot has a loyal following who

come for the kanom pang sangkaya (bread with

Thai-style egg custard) and Thai-style Ameri-

can breakfast, and stick around for the old-

world atmosphere. The no-frills decor only adds

to the charm, with wooden cabinets filled with

tins of Milo from the ‘80s. While you’re there,

head to The Old Siam or Saranrom Park and

take a stroll through the Old Town.

72 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-223-9621. Open daily 6am-4pm

ROAST COFFEE & EATERY

ROAST COFFEE & EATERY

FARM TO TABLE, HIDEOUT




NEW DEVELOPMENTSMAHASAMUTR COUNTRY CLUBHyped as the most ambitious and luxuri-ous project Hua Hin has ever seen, this 130-rai country club came at a cost of B7 billion and features Asia’s largest man-made private lagoon, surrounded by a beach and high-end villas, starting at B50 million apiece. The lagoon is so big you can even windsurf on it, or take out kayaks, canoes and paddle boards as well as learn to scuba dive. The club also comprises a sport complex with facilities for badmin-ton, basketball, squash, volleyball, tennis courts and an Olympic-sized 50-meter swimming pool.

Hua Hin Soi 112, 02-237-1414, 032-510-314. www.mahasamutr.com

SEENSPACE The beachfront Seenspace Hua Hin mall was designed by Akaradej Pantisoon-torn, the developer-slash-architect behind the popular Seenspace mall in Bangkok. Spread over 7,200 sq meters, the mod-ern design sees rectangular bare cement blocks topped with grass walkways and a criss-crossed rooftop. The mall promises hot local fashion boutiques like Greyhound Original, Lalalove and Sretsis, as well as in-ternational brands Marc by Marc Jacobs, Paul Smith and DKNY. For something to eat, check out the FIN seafood bar, followed by a drink at Nomad Bar by The Never Ending Summer—a project in league with celebrity Bangkok architect Duangrit Bunnag.

Hua Hin Soi 35, Liebwang Nue Road, 092-350-0035. www.seenspace.com/huahin

HAPPENING IN HUA HINThe beach town two hours from Bangkok shakes off its sleepy seaside image with bold new developments and dramatic hotel revamps. By Monruedee Jansuttipan

SEENSPACE

MAHASAMUTR COUNTRY CLUB

SEENSPACE


Y whereAROUND THAILAND

AROUND_THAILAND_1_Jun_2016_NEW.indd 16 5/24/16 4:12 PM

SEASIDE EATSBIG FISHHua Hin’s newest seaside restaurant sits in front of the revamped Hua Hin Marriott Re-sort and Spa. Chef Mario Hofmann focuses on charcoal grilling seafood caught by local fishermen, like whole black garoupa grilled with Himalayan salt. He also does some fine slow-roasted meats like the 20-hour-cooked Australian wagyu short ribs. Before tucking into the grill, also be sure to order the iced seafood tower, packed with oys-ters, prawns, mantis shrimps and green mussels and served alongside Thai-style green seafood sauce. The restaurant has both indoor and outdoor seating, both of which benefit from beach views. The out-door section connects with the Pool Bar.

107 Phetkasem Rd., 032-904-666. goo.gl/lThM0N

YOUYEN GARDENYouyen Garden comes from the people behind long-standing Hua Hin restaurant Youyen Balcony on Phetkasem Road. This one offers a vast green space right beside the beach but still serves the same mix of Thai and international dishes as the original branch, such as mee krob phu wa (crispy noodles), namprik khai pu (chili paste with crab egg), khung morakot (prawns in pesto sauce), soft-shell crab with black pepper sauce and prawns in tamarind sauce.

1417/4 Phetkasem Road, Hua Hin, 032-653-013-5. goo.gl/mfh1TQ

LACIANA BY THE SEAHidden behind Hua Hin Soi 3, Laciana is a casual eatery serving home-style Italian food in hearty portions. This restaurant’s outdoor area consists of country-style wooden furni-ture, worn brick paths and a rustic, birdbath-fountain to make for a particularly laid-back setting. Inside you’ll find large tables, rustic bric-a-brac and couches. Highlights include seafood spaghetti, baked prawns with rose-mary and cheesy pizza. Don’t miss their ruam thalay phao seafood bucket which comes with grilled crab, mussels, scallops, squid and shrimps. They also offer Thai dishes like som tam served with deep-fried pork belly.

Hua Hin Soi 3, 081-481-7507. www.fb.com/laciana-bythasea

SEE & DONEW CYCLE TRACKSThe first stretch of Hua Hin’s B157-million bike lane pilot project has now opened, let-ting you ride the 5km distance from Khao Tao to Pranburi. Though the Department of Highways has still to officially cut the ribbon, cyclists are still welcome to use it. And’ that’s not the only good news for peo-ple who want to explore the area on two wheels. Set inside a hotel compound, the public is nonetheless welcome to use The Regent Cha-am Beach Resort’s bike route free of charge. Regent Bike Park consists of two mountain bike trails: a 3.5-kilometer one for everybody and a more advanced 4.5-kilometer track featuring tougher lumps and bumps.

RHYTHM & BOOK & FRIENDSHidden in the backyard behind Hua Hin Place on Naeb Khehat Soi 1, Rhythm & Book & Friends is a minuscule bookshop run by Panu Maneewattanakul, Thailand’s reputed travel writer. Inside his tiny white home,

there are small batches of Thai and interna-tional books curated by him which are about music, arts, food, drinks, history and sex, along with nice collections of vinyls which he has collected along his travel around the world. He regularly has some special items too such as posters designed by Cuban art-ists or vintage pencil sharpeners.

Hua Hin Place Guesthouse, Hua Hin Soi 53. goo.gl/fGE2ss

MATTHEW KENNEY CULINARYThe luxurious, sustainably-minded hotel Evason Hua Hin recently added an on-site “raw food” school from US celeb chef called Matthew Kenney. Take a one- or two-day weekend course to learn more about “plant-based” diets. Bright green smoothies, detoxifying salads and “pasta,” and even a dairy-free dessert made from chia seeds are all included. One day cours-es are B8,000. Room rates start at B3,314.

9 Moo 5 Paknampran Beach, Pranburi, 032-632-111. goo.gl/xPngSG

BIG FISH

LACIANA BY THE SEA EVASON KENNEY CULINARY



AROUND_THAILAND_1_Jun_2016_NEW.indd 17 5/24/16 4:12 PM


whereExploringJUNE 2016 | BANGKOK

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES20 UPPER SILOM 22 CHINATOWN

LUKA CAFE

UPPER SILOMSilom Road starts at Lumphini Park and stops just one block short of the Chao Phraya River. The road’s first half is notorious for Soi Pat-pong, a collection of go-go bars and fake watch stalls. But the bot-tom half has recently undergone a revival, with a host of edgy bars and restaurants joining the area’s long-standing galleries.

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The Exploring Landing_Jun_2016_NEW.indd 19 5/24/16 4:16 PM

UPPER SILOM


EXPLORING

CULTUREOne of Silom’s most colorful land-marks, 1 Mahamariamman Temple (Wat Khaek) (between Pan Rd. and Silom Soi 17, 02-238-4007) feels more like it belongs in India than downtown Bangkok. Built during the 19th century by Tamil immigrants, it is one of the main non-Buddhist places of worship in the capital. The area is also bustling with galleries. Just around the corner, Manit Sri-wanichpoom’s 2 Kathmandu Photo Gallery (87 Pan Rd., 02-234-6700) is Bangkok’s preeminent photography gallery. Its exhibitions focus on social issues, urbanization and the country’s photographic heritage—well worth a regular visit. Nearby, 3 H Gallery (201 Sathorn Soi 12, 085-021-5508) is set in a beautiful, late-19th century, wooden building where Brian Curtin curates exhibitions by emerging con-temporary Asian artists. Also visit

the Jewelry Trade Center (see right) which is home to some of the city’s best galleries.

LUNCH AND COFFEE4 Blue Elephant (233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353) is one of the most established Thai restaurants in town, serving authentic royal Thai cuisine from a beautiful old house. Nearby, 5 Supanniga offers a more relaxed take on no-less-authentic Thai cui-sine, drawing in a hip local clientele

that belies the affordable prices. Less-formal is the wonderfully idiosyncratic 6 Foo Mui Kee (10-12 Prachum Rd., 02-234-6648), an 80-year-old shop-house restaurant serving Western dishes with a distinctly Chinese in-fluence. For some good coffee and a fuss-free meal, head over to 7 Rocket (149 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-635-0404), a cafe that keeps things simple with eggs Benedict, homemade granola and salami and cheese focaccia sand-wiches, or check out the new 8Luka Cafe. Our pick for delicious Thai street food is Wat Khaek Market (see box, opposite).

HEALTH AND WELLNESSLocated inside the W Bangkok hotel is the vibrant 9Away Spa (6/F, W Bangkok, 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4160), a swanky spa with a dim, labyrinthine halls lit with LED lights to provide a relaxing and playful mood.

THE DINING ROOM AT THE HOUSE ON SATHORN In what used to be the Soviet Embassy, this standalone outpost of the neighboring W Hotel has one of the most stunning dining rooms in town, artfully blending the building’s period details with considerate modern touches. Half of the restaurant’s 40 seats are at a long, wooden counter facing the kitchen, where the team turns out fusion dishes like Hunting the Duck (duck breast lying on splashes of red pomegranate sauce and burnt onion powder as gunpowder) and The Red Parfait (foie gras torchon wrapped with beetroot jelly, served with brioche and aged balsamic vinegar). !5 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4025. Open daily noon-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

@1 Bangkok Art GalleriaHead to floors 4 and 5 of Bangkok’s jewelry trading hub, the Jewelry Trade Center, for four of the city’s best galleries. 919/1 Silom Soi 19. 02-630-0979

Tang Contemporary Art

With its two branches in China, this institution is Bangkok’s top dog when it comes to modern Chinese-Thai art.

02-630-1114. Open Tue-Sat 11am-7pm

CVNCVN is more of an art dealer, so no rotating exhibitions here. Bring a few million baht for a Thawan Duchanee, but prices start from much lower than that.

02-630-2251. Open Mon-Sat 11am-7pm

Number1 GalleryYoung and fresh, with a selection of exciting emerging artists, this gal-lery’s price tags in the tens of thou-sands remain reasonable.

02-630-2523. Open daily 11am-7pm

Thavibu GalleryRepresenting big names like Vasan Sithiket and Navin Rawanchaikul, Thavibu is another highly-regarded gallery.

02-266-5454. Open Mon-Sat 11am-7pm

SUPANNIGA

Y SPOTLIGHT

Exploring_01_Jun_2016_UPPER SILOM.indd 20 5/23/16 12:51 PM

UPPER SILOM


EXPLORING

The spa specializes in treatments ranging from massages to detox. For a more traditional setting, head over to !0Health Land (120 Sathorn Rd., 02-637-8880) for their popular tradition-al Thai whole-body or foot massage.

DRINKS AND DININGThe Silom area is home to some of Bangkok’s best restaurants. Anyone who’s anyone right now is eating at !1Bunker (see page TK), which sits across the street from !2Lady Brett (149 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-635-0405), a cozy wooden-tiled tavern serving simple barbecue dishes, !3Le Du (399/3 Silom Soi 7, 092-919-9969) is an inventive restaurant powered by a young Thai chef; while next door’s !4Namsaah Bottling Trust (401 Silom Soi 7, 02-636-6622) offers whimsical takes on Asian comfort food and strong cocktails in a charm-ing 100-year-old house. The area is also home to plenty of upscale op-tions, among them !5 The House on Sathorn (see opposite), one of the hottest new tables in town, !6 Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant (37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd., 02-238-1991) and even !7 L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon (5/F, 02-

001-0698) by the chef with the most Michelin stars in the world. For drinks and casual bites, head to Sathorn soi 10-12, which is thriving with new bars including !8 Le Cafe des Stagiaires (142/21 Sathorn Soi 12, 081-207-3077) and !9 Revolucion (50 Sath-orn Soi 10, 02-235-4823), or head up

to the rooftop @0Vogue Lounge (6/F, Mahanakhon Cube, Silom, Nara-thiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0697) where the former chef of Hong Kong’s Caprise creates delicate shar-ing plates to go with wonderful cock-tails. For later nights, check out @1 Ce La Vi (39/F, Sathorn Square Complex, 02-108-2000), the Bangkok branch of Asia’s high-end clubbing brand, or the colonial Shanghai-themed @2 Maggie Choo’s (UG/F, Novotel Fenix Silom, 02-635-6055).

Surasak BTS Station

Chong Nonsi BTS Station

Silom Rd.

Pan Rd.

Silom Soi 7

Sathorn Soi 12

Sathorn Soi 10

Pradit (Silom 20)

Decho Rd.

Soi Mahesak

Soi Surasak

Prachum (Silom

22)

Soi Pramote

Puttha Osot

Pramuan

Silom Soi 19Silom

Soi 21

Surawong Rd.

6

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Wat Khaek Market The fresh market nestled by the Mahamariamman Temple is a popular place for locals and expats to grab breakfast, lunch and dinner. Here, you’ll find basic Thai street dishes such as som tam (spicy papaya sal-ad), moo-ping (grilled pork on a stick), noodle soup and Muslim curries.

@3 Silom Rd., between soi 20 and 22. Open daily 6am-late

VOGUE LOUNGE

Y SPOTLIGHT

1 Mahamariamman Temple (Wat Khaek)2 Kathmandu Photo Gallery3 H Gallery4 Blue Elephant5 Supanniga6 Foo Mui Kee 7 Rocket8 Luka Cafe

9 Away Spa !0 Health Land !1 Bunker!2 Lady Brett!3 Le Du !4 Namsaah Bottling Trust!5 The House on Sathorn!6 Scarlett Wine Bar and Restaurant

!7 L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon !8 Le Cafe des Stagiaires !9 Revolucion @0 Vogue Lounge @1 Ce La Vi @2 Maggie Choo’s @3 Wat Khaek Market

Exploring_01_Jun_2016_UPPER SILOM.indd 21 5/23/16 12:51 PM

CHINATOWN


EXPLORING

Chinatown used to be all about eating at the most time-worn restaurants in Bangkok and walking through moody, crumbling streets where traditional Si-no-Thai home life spills into public sight. That’s all still there, but so are a cluster

of the coolest new cocktail bars and galleries in town, attracting to the area a young, local and arty crowd with craft brews and vibrant live sounds.

SEE & DOAlthough many generations have passed since Chinese immigrants first moved to the area, Taoist culture still remains strong in Chinatown, giving this part of town a rich and unique history. Using life-size models and audiovisual displays, the 1 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center (661 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-623-3329, open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm) details the history of Chinese mi-gration to Thailand, as well as how the area now known as Chinatown began. 2 Wat Traimit (661 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-225-9775, open Tue-Sun 9am-5pm) is not to be missed, home to the world’s biggest seated Golden Buddha, which also happens to be the largest gold statue in the world. Built in the 14th century, it remains very sacred and is a

popular site for locals during religious holidays. Nearby, you’ll find 3 Wat Mongkhon Kamalawat (Mangkorn Rd., 02-222-3975), which combines Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian figures. A lot of devout Buddhist locals tend to practice here, so be sure to respect them as they perform their religious rituals. For a more tourist-friendly expe-

rience, head to the colorful old Chinese Buddhist shrines at 4 Li Thi Miew (494 Plapphlachai Rd., 02-221-6985), where you’ll be welcomed with your camera at the ready—so long as you wear appro-priate clothing. The most picturesque shrine in the area has to be 5 Guan Yin Shrine (600 Yaowarat Rd., 02-237-2191), where a classically ornate Chi-nese building houses a 900-year-old statue of the Mahayana Buddhist God-dess of Mercy. Yaowarat is also known as a hub for gold trade. 6 Tang Toh Kang (Soi Vanit 1, 02-224-2422) gold shop dates back to the early 1900s and the reign of King Rama VI. Today, the seven-story late colonial-style building is still owned by its founding family, and in 2002 underwent a major renovation. Although the shop still deals gold on a day-to-day basis, a section has also been converted into a museum for the public. Be sure to call ahead one day in advance as they don’t allow walk-in visitors for security reasons.

2ND YARD This refurbished shop-house on the fringes of Chinatown does some of Bangkok’s best sand-wiches. Select from seven fillings that range from mushroom and cheese up to grilled beef and grilled unagi (freshwater eel), each served between two pieces of lightly-charred ciabatta. 2nd Yard has even grown into a proper nightspot with a well-stocked bar, craft beers and cocktails. Aside from the solid sandwiches and drinks, part of the place’s appeal is its location amid the crumbling walls and auto shops of Talad Noi.!8 763 Charoen Krung Rd., 095-898-8070. MRT Hua Lamphong. Open daily 4-11pm.

WAT TRAIMIT

!4 Guay Tiew Kua Gai

This gem, very well-known among locals, is hidden in a tiny alley and run by an old couple who have been serving one of the best guay tiew kua gai (fried noodles with chicken) for decades.

Yaowarat Soi 6. Open Wed-Mon, 7pm-1am

!5 Pa Jin Cockle Soi Texas

Located in the middle of Soi Texas, this place has been specializing in boiled cockles and mussels for over 35 years.

Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd., 081-795-1839. Open daily Mon-Sat 6:30pm-1am, Sun 5pm-1am

!6 Kuay Jub Nai Ek

This place is known for its kuay jub, a hot dish composed of rolled noodles with crispy pork belly, blood and in-testines served in peppery soup.

Yaowarat Rd., corner of soi 11. Open daily 7pm-late

!7 T&K Seafood and R&L Seafood

Located opposite each other, these two restaurants are known for their fresh seafood dishes at reasonable prices.

Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd. Open daily 6pm-1am

Y CHINATOWN’S TOP STREET-FOOD STALLS

Exploring_02_Jun_2016_China Town.indd 22 5/23/16 12:55 PM

CHINATOWN


EXPLORING

EAT Dining in Chinatown is all about old-school shop-house restaurants that have stood in the same spot for 80 years or more. 7 Yim Yim (89 Yaowaphanit Rd., 02-224-2203) is a venerable institution in Yaowarat’s rich dining scene—which is to say it’s some of the best Chinese food you’ll get in Bangkok, despite the gloomy decor and small, dark space. The goat ham and cured fish are delicious. On a similar note, don’t be discouraged by the rats and cockroaches in the alleyway leading to 8 Jok’s Kitchen (23 Soi Isara Nuphap, 02-221-4075), a small, menu-less establishment known as one of the hottest seats in town. Chef Jok presents course after course of things like steamed bass in soy sauce and fried rice with crabmeat to a packed dining room every night. Dining here is done traditional Chi-nese-style, so come with a big enough party to fill one of the large round ta-bles. While Yaowarat is known for its Chinese food, the adjoining Pahurat is home to a sizable Indian commu-nity, and 9 Royal India (392/1 Chak-kaphet Rd., 02-221-6565) is simply one of the best places in town for

lip-smackingly good Punjabi recipes. Turn on your heels, because here they cook in true Indian grandmother style—plenty of cream and ghee. And be sure to stock up on traditional Indi-an sweets on your way out. The area’s old-school tea and coffee houses are also not to be missed. The 87-year-

old !0 Eiah-Sae (1-103 Yaowarat Rd., 081-868-9891) serves coffee laced with condensed milk along-side charming snacks like custard on toast, soft-boiled eggs and toast with butter, jam or chocolate spread, all charged at rock-bottom prices. !1 Double Dogs, (406 Yaowarat Rd., 086-329-3075) meanwhile, special-izes in potent, properly brewed teas from across the region.

DRINKUntil recently, Chinatown was nev-er on the nightlife radar. But a re-cent wave of new bars have been converting old shop-houses, both in Chinatown and the surround-ing area. !2 El Chiringuito (221 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 086,-340-4791) has a charming retro ambi-ence courtesy of reclaimed wooden furniture, classic sewing tables, old posters and an adorable chalkboard menu. The owner lived in Spain for six years, and the kitchen rolls out dishes like tortilla de patatas (omelet), patatas bravas (fried po-tatoes) and bocadillos (sandwich-es). Wash it down with a Spanish Xoriguer gin. Just round the corner you’ll find one of the coolest craft

cocktail lounges in town, !2 Teens of Thailand (76 Soi Nana, Charoen-krung Rd., 081-443-3784), where a collection of arts, party organizers and photographers gather to sip on gin-heavy drinks. On the same street, !2 23 Bar and Gallery (92 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 086-264-4471), has a no-frills atmosphere, and a soundtrack that flits between 90s Britpop and reggae, while !2Tep Bar (69-71 Soi Nana) dishes out heritage Thai food, drinks and music to a hip local crowd (see opposite). Or head up to the 25th floor of the !3 Grand China Hotel (215 Yaowarat Rd., 02-224-9977), where a revolving restau-rant and bar offers 360-degree views of Chinatown and the river.

Song

Saw

at R

d.

Mit Ph

an R

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Mit Pha

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Tri Mit Rd.

Maitri Chit Rd.

Maitri Chit Rd.

Mangkon Rd.

Luang Rd.

Luang Rd.

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Yuko

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Khao Lam Rd.

Charoen Krung Rd.

Charoen Krung Rd.

Charoen Krung Rd.

Sanam Chai Rd.

Phahurat Rd.

Tri P

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Ban

Mo

Rd.

Arun Amarin Rd.

Itsaraphap Rd.

Praj

adhi

pok

Rd.

Somdet Chao Phraya Rd.

Maha Rat Rd.

Yaowarat Rd.

Song Wat Rd.

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Phat Sai Rd.

Racha

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e Rd.

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Chao Phraya River

To MRT Hua Lamphong u

Dindaeng Pier

Rachawongse Pier

Rajinee Pier

KaniayanamitPier

PakKhlong

Talat Pier

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TEP BAR

GETTING THEREReaching Chinatown is easy. Simply take the MRT (underground train) to Hua Lamphong station and head to Exit 1. Follow the road over a footbridge that crosses the canal and you’ll be at the doorway to the area. See page 32 for a general map of Bangkok.

EIAH-SAE

1 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center2 Wat Triammit 3 Wat Mongkhon Kamalawat4 Li Thi Miew5 Guan Yin Shrine6 Tang Toh Kang7 Yim Yim8 Jok’s Kitchen 9 Royal India!0 Eiah-Sae!1 Double Dogs !2 Soi Nana - El Chiringuito - Teens of Thailand - 23 Bar and Gallery - Tep Bar!3 Grand China Hotel!4 Guy Tiew Kua Gai!5 Pa Jin Cockle Soi Texas !6 Kuay Jub Nai Ek !7 T&K Seafood and R&L Seafood!8 2nd Yard

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ThewhereGuideJUNE 2016 | BANGKOK


NEW UNCLE X 72 COURTYARD This moody cocktail bar sits on top of a chic de-velopment of restaurants and night spots in the happening Thonglor area. Its specialty is classic cocktails with a twist served for a fraction of the price of other bars which look even half this styl-ish. When you’re sipping drinks as good as head barman Philip Stefanescu’s Manhattan Latino (rum, Mancino Rosso, cocoa and bittes) while lounging on one of thier slouchy leather sofas, it’s hard to have just one or two.72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor). Open daily 6pm-2am.

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES25 DINING

28 NIGHTLIFE

29 HEALTH & WELLNESS

30 ATTRACTIONS

31 ART

32 NAVIGATE

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BAA GA DIN One of a vanguard of restaurants that seek to tweak tried-and-tested street

food favorites, Baa Ga Din presents a modern twist to roadside specialties like chicken wings and oyster omelets. The brainchild of Thitid Tassana-kajohn of acclaimed fine-dining eatery Le Du, Baa Ga Din also serves an inventive cocktail menu in a friendly, bistro atmosphere that lures large groups who want the casual experience of Thai street food without the exhaust fumes and teeny stools.

26 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-3813. Open Wed-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Mon 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm

ERR The chef duo behind Bangkok’s Thai fine dining institution Bo.lan have brought

their expertise to a new genre of modern, casual Thai cuisine. Their latest project, Err, is set in a retro shop-house just down the street from Wat Pho, where they’ve trained their chefs to whip up rejuvenated versions of Thailand’s best drinking snacks. The menu comprises dishes intended to be shared among friends alongside cocktails.

394/35 Maharaj Rd., 02-622-2291. Open Tue-Sun 11am-9pm

SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN Thought of as a “Thai-style izakaya” by owner Jarrett Wrisley, this perennially

popular Thai hotspot does Thai street food with thoughtful, arty flourishes: think housemade wa-termelon rind pickles with the Hat Yai-style fried chicken, or a smoky bacon garnish on the grilled eggplant salad. Specials, written up on a chalk-board on the ground floor, change on a regular ba-sis and the cocktails are potent and tasty.

56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. Open daily 5:30pm-midnight. BTS Thong Lo

NEW BUNKER Fresh, simple, well-executed, original yet devoid of gimmicks, there’s a reason why the food at Bunker has been more hotly an-ticipated than any other restaurant this year. Some of the menu’s 16 dishes verge on tapas portions, but the flavors are anything but small: the wagyu beef tartar is spiked with daikon radish and radish sprouts; the cured foie gras torchon paired with candied ca-shew and chili mango; the smoky plate of fat-ty wagyu short rib falls from the bone in per-fectly glazed, inch-thick slices. The space’s craggy concrete lines are also something of a novelty, softened by turquoise banquettes and octogonal globes of light.

118/2 Sathorn Soi 12, 092-563-9991. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. BTS Chong Nonsi

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Hot Spots HIP THAI RESTAURANTS

BAA GA DIN

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ERR

Blue Elephant The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colo-nial-style mansion with a classic interior of dark rattan furnishings and authentic Asian artifacts. Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine with authen-tic flavor. While more modern Thai restaurants have lately grabbed most column inches, Blue El-ephant is still worth a visit for both atmosphere and food.

233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Surasak

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26 WHERE THAILAND I DECEMBER 2011 I www.wheretraveler.com

ABOUT EATERYBangkok’s first attempt at a “natural” wine bar.G/F, Ocean Tower 2, Asoke Soi 3, 02-665-2772. www.facebook.com/abouteatery.bangkok

KAY’S BOUTIQUE BREAKFAST A bright, all-white venue that’s all about breakfast. 116/55-57 Rangnam Rd., 089-816-8566. www.facebook.com/kaysbangkok

SUN STREET PANINIPhra Athit welcomes one seriously cute Ital-ian restaurant. Phra Athit Rd., 082-454-8884. www.face-book.com/sunstreetpaninibkk

BLU 36 Peruvian cuisine from a home that’s been converted into a dining room with outdoor terrace.23/7 Sukhumvit Soi 36, 02-661-5448. www.facebook.com/BLU36Bangkok

TASTE OF THE CITY

Recent Openings

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starting from B5,000

Credit card payment accepted.

Email [email protected] or

call 026249601


DINING Y


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SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM (SATHORN) One of Bangkok’s favorite Thai restau-

rants has built its reputation on delicate traditional plates bursting with strong, authentic flavors. The casual decor plays with the vivid yellow of Supan-niga flowers, while other references to Eastern Thai culture abound. Dont miss the pu jah (blended crabmeat and pork, seasoned with pepper and steamed inside crab shell), panang nuea lai (beef chunks in red curry) and moo cha muang (stewed pork with herbs and cha muang leaves).

28 Sathorn Soi 10, 02-635-0349. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

TEP BAR This restored shop-house has plenty of raw appeal, and specializes in potent

cocktails mixed with Thai fruits, herbs and spices. There’s also a good line of home-infused ya dong (Thai herbal whiskey) as well as a kitchen dishing out Thai tapas (as well as a few classics like pad Thai). Come nightfall, enjoy your meal while Thai musicians take the stage to play traditional music from the Central region.

Room 69-71, Soi Nana, 098-467-2944. Open Tue-Thu 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sun 5pm-1am. MRT Hua LamphongSUPANNIGA EATING ROOM

TEP BAR

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Gaggan Chef Gaggan Anand’s name went around the world when his eponymous restaurant was named Asia’s 50 Best’s No. 1 restuarant in 2015 —a feat he followed up this year. Each night, in a classically restored house on Langsuan Road, the chef’s team offers a tasting menu where din-ers’ expectations of Indian food are first thrown overboard and then blown out of the water.

68/1 Lang Suan Rd., 02-652-1700. Open daily 6pm-midnight. BTS Ratchadamri.

Issaya Siamese Club Make your way down the long driveway and through the charming garden before finding a seat among the bright blue walls and artifacts emanating Thai heritage. All-star chef Ian Kit-tichai’s meticulously presented menu brings dishes which are unique, yet simultaneously truly Thai.

4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chuaphloeng Rd., 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-1am. MRT Khlong Toei

L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon This genius concept from Joel Robuchon, the most lauded French chef in the world, takes the chain restaurant to its most elegant extreme, giving diners the feel of an upscale sushi bar while serving up impeccable versions of French favorites. The menu is studded by L’Atelier high-lights like free-range quail stuffed with foie gras and potato puree.

5/F, Mahanakorn Cube, 96 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0698. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

Le Normandie Bangkok’s best fine dining restaurant contin-ues to set the standard for service and cuisine among eateries with Michelin-star pretensions. Chef Arnaud Dunand Sauthier, who enjoys a for-midable resume after stints with culinary giants Georges Blanc, Marc Veyrat and Emile Jung, helms the classically French menu.

The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., Charoenkrung Rd., 02-659-9000 #7390. Open Mon-Sat 7-10pm, noon-2pm

Nahm Still considered the “must-go” destination of ev-ery aspiring foodie in Bangkok, Nahm—helmed by Australian chef David Thompson—does Thai food made with the very finest ingredients using the most traditional methods. Choose the set menus and put your faith in the chef’s knowledge of what’s in season. Metropolitan by COMO, 27 Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3388. Open daily 7-10:30pm; Mon-Fri noon-2pm

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON


NIGHTLIFEY


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ABOVE ELEVEN This bar and restaurant doesn’t just have great views of the city going for it; there’s

also an adventurous menu of Japanese-Peruvian fusion (aka Nikkei) cuisine. Small plates like ace-bichado rolls (seabass, ika karage, avocado) and skewers of anticucho beef heart are bettered only by their signature cocktails. Note that if you’re sit-ting at the bar you’ll have your back to the skyline, so its worth booking a table in advance.

33/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111. Open daily 6pm-2am. BTS Nana

OCTAVE The bar’s trendy-but-mature vibe is ac-centuated by striking views from the top

floor of the Marriott Sukhumvit hotel. The first level features a long balcony filled with sculpture-like sofas, above which are a couple of private rooms and a third tier with 360-dedgree views around a circular bar. DJs play not-too-loud funky houseto a crowd of young executives and hotel guests drink-ing classic cocktails with slight twists. The food fo-cuses on Asian-themed bar snacks.

45/F, Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-797-0000. Open daily 5pm-2am. BTS Thong Lo

PARK SOCIETY The restaurant serves a menu that es-chews fine dining in favor of more casual,

shareable bites, while the outdoor terrace offers amazing views over Lumphini Park. To eat, try the burrato di bufala with heirloom tomatoes, pan-seared Tasmanian salmon with white asparagus, leek, fennel and hollandaise sauce, and Iberico belotta with fresh melon. Out at the bar it’s all about cocktails.

29/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000. Open daily 6-10:30pm. MRT Lumphini

TOP KNOT Sitting on top of the Hotel Once, this multi-level bar and grill offers 360-de-

gree views from its upper level. You come here for quiet, intimate evenings and small gatherings among friends in an area of the city which is only just waking up to nightlife—but which has the au-thentic atmosphere of old Bangkok. The food menu however is not so Thai, offering a selection of bar-becue specials like pork, chicken, beef, salmon and shrimp as well as pastas. To drink, it’s cocktails or local and imported beers.

8-9/F, Hotel Once Bangkok, 2074/99 Charoen-krung Soi 72/2, 02-688-2596. Open daily 6pm-midnight.

RED SKY The 55th-floor view from Centara’s roof-top puts this bar in the same league as

high flyers like Vertigo at the Banyan Tree. Al fresco dining and drinking takes place under a swooping, red-lit arch, while chef Hugo Coudurier’s seasonal menus spotlight classic, rich steak dishes. Don’t miss the truffle-infused wagyu beef tenderloin Rossini—a menu staple and proven crowd-pleaser.

55/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-6255. Siam. Open daily 6-11:30pm. BTS Chit Lom

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NEW BACKSTAGE BARThis Broadway-burlesque space on the lobby floor of a theater-themed hotel dishes out drinks courtesy of a Diageo World Class cocktail competition finalist. Amid Louis XIV-style velvet sofas and a liquor shelf sur-rounded by backstage mirrors, sip on things like Earthbeet, an earthy and woody drink with a beetroot-infused tequila base mixed with sweet vermouth, Campari, Cynar (arti-choke liqueur) and mezcal, garnished with a slice of beetroot and torched liquorice. Got the munchies? Kha-kai (salty crispy bread sticks) are complimentary.

L/F, Playhaus Thonglor, 205/22-23 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-712-5747. Open daily 6pm-1am

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Teens of Thailand Hiding behind a rugged wooden door is this small, moody bar belonging to a who’s-who of Bangkok’s art and nightlife scene, from fashion photographers and party organizers to mixolo-gists and musicians. The real highlight is the vast collection of gin, from the must-try Hanami (the house pour) to the locally distilled Iron Balls and more. The decor is basic, mixing old shop-house charm with racy photographs. Our tip: tell the barman what kind of cocktail you like and let him make something new for you.

76 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 081-443-3784. MRT Hua Lamphong. Open Wed-Sun 7pm-midnight.

ABOVE ELEVEN

TOP KNOT

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AWAY SPA AT W BANGKOK Split into four zones, this spa’s use of soft LED lights gives it a meditative, relaxing

mood with walls and treatment beds glowing softly in your choice of green, red, purple or pink. Treat-ments range from the signature Away Massage Metamorphosis using essential oils to nurture stress points all the way to detox treatments like a four-hands mineral scrub.

6/F, W Bangkok, 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4160. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

I.SAWAN RESIDENTIAL SPA & CLUB When celebrated Taiwanese designer

Tony Chi created this club-style hotel spa, he made it one of Bangkok’s most beautiful wellness retreats. The indoor-outdoor setting feels more like a jungle resort than a city spa, featuring six residential spa cottages, nine treatment bungalows, a hair salon and a nail bar—not to mention a modern fitness cen-ter, squash and tennis courts plus a 25-meter pool.

5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am-11pm. BTS Chit Lom

OKURA SPA Tucked on the 25th floor of the luxury Japanese hotel, this contemporary orien-

tal space features five private treatment rooms hid-den along a dimly-lit walkway. The highlight is the

Okura Take Relief massage, during which therapists roll a warm bamboo pole over your muscles to re-lease stress before a soak in a big bathtub.

25/F, The Okura Prestige, 57 Wireless Rd., 02-687-9000. Open daily 10am-10pm

DEVARANA SPA BANGKOK This is truly one of the best spas in Bang-kok for an over-the-top spa session that

goes well beyond a massage. Their signature treat-ments include The Heavenly Nantha Garden Experi-ence, a 2.5-hour bath, scrub and massage that com-bines Thai, Ayurveda and Shiatsu techniques and The Harmony of Tad Si The Traditional Thai Medi-cine, a treatment using Thai herbal compresses and aromatic oils to relax muscles and pressure points.

Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-636-3596. Open daily 9am-10pm. MRT Silom

THE ORIENTAL SPA As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa is set in a century-old teak

house including five specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments under a holistic philosophy. Try the Oriental Signature Treat-ment, a 1.5-hour aromatherapy signature massage of essential oils or the Herbal Wrap, an hour-long wrap using fresh herbs from Chiang Mai to target dehydrated skin.

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. BTS Saphan Taksin

SO SPA Perched on the 11th floor, the spa offers the added bonus of a relaxing view over

the greenery of Lumphini Park, amid its own dimly lit, forest-themed decor. Their special couples pack-age takes place in the double treatment room which ensures couples can enjoy that view from the com-fort of their own bathtub.

Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 Rd., 02-624-0000. MRT Lumphini

NEW ABSOLUTE FIT FOOD CAFE This food arm of Bangkok’s Absolute well-ness empire (also known for their yoga and Pilates studios) specializes in healthy food that also tastes delicious. Expect a bunch of low-calorie recipes that are high in nutrients, free of chemicals, trans fats, artificial color-ing and refined sugars, ranging from the superfood-heavy spicy zucchini quinoa salad and green curry quinoa risotto to guilt-free desserts like blueberry chocolate tart made using spelt flour instead of wheat, with cocoa powder, blueberry, almond and coconut oil.

2/F, The Portico, Lang Suan Rd., 081-371-3721. BTS Chit Lom

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Kashikiri Soda Onsen This onsen blends Japanese and Thai spa cultures. There are seven private tubs, in-cluding four tubs for couples and four pri-vate massage rooms. Try the basic 1.5-hour Kashikiri Balancing Bath for a 45-minute pri-vate onsen and 30-minute head, shoulders and back massage, or go for the full two-hour Onsen and Scrub. The massage menu ranges from Thai massage and hot Asian herbal compress to foot reflexology, sport massage by aroma oil, hot aroma oil massage and back-neck-shoulder-head massage. 84 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 081 268 4624. Open daily 9:30am-10:30pm

AWAY SPA

THE ORIENTAL SPA

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BAAN SILAPIN Also known as “The Artist’s House,” this century-old wooden house sits on the banks

of Bang Luang Canal, the former home of a merchant family, and has been transformed into a public space celebrating traditional Thai culture. This hidden gem is a great place to experience the slow life of old Bangkok, whether that’s simply relaxing by the canal, strolling around the ancient homes, sampling traditional drinks, shopping for art or catching the Thai puppet show (daily except Wednesday, arrive before 2pm).

315 Wat Thongsala Ngam, Phasi Charoen-BangKaa Soi 28 (Phet Kasem), 02-868-5297. Open daily 10am-6pm

CALYPSO The first Broadway-style cabaret show in Bangkok, founded in 1988, consists of

70 artists performing a diverse variety of cultural shows, from arirang (Korean classic folk tale) to kin-naree (classical Thai dance) to a contemporary bur-lesque act. It’s all massively kitsch and something of a Bangkok institution. Tickets are B1,200 for the show only or B2,000 including dinner. Reservations at www.calypsocabaret.com.

Warehouse 3, Asiatique the Riverfront, 2194 Charoenk-rung Rd., 02-688-1415. Open daily 8:15-9:45pm

MUAY THAI LIVE: THE LEGEND LIVES This fast-paced live Thai boxing show was

created and directed by Ekachai Uekrongtham, the artistic director of Action Theatre in Singapore and director of films like Beautiful Boxer and Pleasure Factory. The stage show features more than just Thai kickboxing, throwing in plenty of swashbuckling ac-tion and a sprinkling of romance, all performed by for-mer Muay Thai champs and national boxers. Tickets are B1,200-1,500.

Warehouse 4, Asiatique the Riverfront, 2194 Charoenk-rung Rd. Open Tue-Sun 8-9:30pm

RAJADAMNERN BOXING STADIUM At Thailand’s most famous Muay Thai sta-

dium, dating back to 1941, foreigners get seated ring-side while the outer seats are occupied by hard-gam-bling locals—as much of a spectacle as the fighting. It’s also the definitive place to witness genuine, champion-ship Thai boxing bouts. The beautiful art deco building holds matches for both amateurs and professionals three days a week. For ticket reservations, visit rajad-amnern.com.

1 Ratchadamnoen Ave, Pom Prap Sattru Pai, 02-281-4205. Open Sun-Mon 6:30-11pm; Wed-Thu 3-11pm

SIAM NIRAMIT BANGKOK This grand visual spectacular draws on the histories of Thailand’s four main regions—

the North, the South, the Central Plains and the North-east—to present an 80-minute history of a nation that delves into its religious beliefs and major festivals. Ex-pect plenty of state-of-the-art effects and a full, on-site replica village, as well as a variety of pre-performance cultural activities. Showtime 8pm, doors open 5:30pm. Tickets are B1,500-2,350 from www.siamniramit.com.

19 Thiem-Ruammit Rd., 02 649 9222. Open daily 5-10pm.

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RAJADAMNERN BOXING STADIUM

BAAN SILAPIN

NEW CHANG GLOBAL CARNIVAL This theme park located next to one of the city’s most popular parks boasts over 20 adrenaline-rushing rides from Europe. Visitors can drop from heights of 40 me-ters on the the Booster, fly around hang-ing from a rollercoaster track on the Euro Star, and experience dizzying G forces in all manner of other spinning and swinging rides. There’s plenty of fairground games, food and drinks around, too.

Lumphini Square, Ratchadamri Rd. Open Mon-Fri 4-11pm; Sat-Sun 10am-10pm. MRT Lumphini

Museum Siam This completely restored colonial-style building is now an innovative, technology-driven mu-suem that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia pre-sentations and interactive panels.

4 Sanam Chai Rd., 02-225-2777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. www.museumsiam.org

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CULTURES FROM TEN COUNTRIESPainter Weerapan Phiwhoom presents

his latest collection of water color portraits captur-ing moments from daily life and cultural aspects from his travels around Asia.

Jun 3-30, Chomp, 63-65 Samsen Rd.

OSCILLATIONFive artists from Thailand, America and Japan—Arnont Nongyao, Be Takerng

Pattanopas, Stephanie Powell, Eiji Sumi and Hiroshi Miyata—present a series of mixed-media works ex-ploring the state of non-fixation and regeneration.

Through Jun 18, The Art Center, 7/F, Center of Aca-demic Resources, Chulalongkorn University, Phaya Thai Rd., 02-2182-965

LIFE FORMS: NEW WORKS IN WOODArtist and designer Nucharin Wang-

phongsawasd presents her latest woodwork pieces inspired by how natural life takes forms in repeti-tion, multiplication and division.

Through Jun 30, Serindia Gallery, Charoenkrung Soi 36.

THE ARCTIC IS AN EYEThis unique gallery set up in a river ferry welcomes the work of Katie Turnbull,

who uses film to explore climate change in the Arc-tic Circle as depicted from environmental data and opinion polls, capturing the the social reality of this phenomenon.

Through Jul 30, The Ferry Gallery, Maha Rat Rd., Tha Tien Pier.

REPAPERThe TCDC invited architects, designers and artists from around the country to

create art using what they could find at a paper recycling factory, including toilet rolls, scrap paper and cardboard scraps.

Through Jun 12, Thailand Creative and Design Cen-ter (TCDC), 6/F, The Emporium, 662 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-664-8448. BTS Phrom Phong.

BANGKOK ART AND CULTURE CENTRE (BACC) Set in the bustling Pathumwan area just across the road from Siam Square and MBK, this public art center has become a popular hot-spot for the people of Bangkok. Aside from the contemporary art exhibitions, BACC also contains small, design-centric stores, ranging from cafes and restaurants to book shops. The top floor also boasts a movie theater, complete with a decent-sized stage for live performances.

939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630-8. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. BTS National Stadium

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MOCAThis 18,000-sq-meter, five-story building in the north of Bangkok is Thailand’s biggest private mu-seum and first significant permanent modern art collection open to the public. The works are nearly all post 1970s, and mostly post 1990s even, with plenty of realism and surrealism depicting rural life, religious Buddhist scenes or mythological motifs from the Ramayana. The highlight is the fourth floor's four rooms dedicated to the late Thawan Duchanee, Thailand’s most renowned contemporary painter.

Room 499, Bejajinda Building, Wiphawadi-Rangsit Rd., 02-953-1005-7. Open Tue-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat-Sun 11am-6pm. www.mocabangkok.com

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THE ARCTIC IS AN EYE

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NAVIGATEY


GUIDE

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Main road

BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

BTS (Silom Line)

MRT

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

River/Klong (canal)

Pier

1 Asiatique the Riverfont

2 Chatuchak Market

3 Vimanmek Mansion

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

5 Khao San Road

6 National Museum

7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

8 Wat Pho

9 Wat Arun

!0 Victory Monument

!1 Yaowarat (Chinatown)

!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

!3 Lumphini Park

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

!5 Siam Paragon

!6 CentralWorld and Zen

!7 Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

!8 Central Chidlom, Central Embassy

Key

1

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8

7

6

5

34

2

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!2

!7

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!5!6

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Y FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

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NAVIGATE Y


GUIDE

AIRPORT LINKThe Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Air-port, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Ex-press Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan sta-tions (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUNDThe BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130.The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an ex-tensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng—MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www.bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

TAXISIn Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any mis-communication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. There are now also a number of mobile phone ap-plications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thai-land) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).

TUK-TUKSTuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportuni-ties. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

CANAL BOATS While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanako-sin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120

EXPRESS RIVER BOATSThese fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different per-spective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions acces-sible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

BANKING HOURSBanking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

ATMSATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use over-seas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attach-ing the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After check-in and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Of-fice in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS1EMERGENCY SERVICES

(FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191

2AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th

3BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th

4BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th

5BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th

6CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaex-pressboat.com

7SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com

8TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org

9TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500

TUK-TUKS

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21 THINGS WE LOVE about BangkokY


1 Taking in the sweeping views of the city with a colorful cocktail in hand at Above Eleven, a rooftop bar with stellar views. See page 28.

2 Descending the steps to Mag-gie Choo’s, the sultry Silom nightspot styled on Shanghai opium dens. See page 28.

3 Basking by the river with a cold beer and enjoying the slow life at Baan Silapin, a century-old wooden house. See page 30.

4 Sampling molecular Indian dishes at one of Asia’s best restaurants, Gag-gan. See page 25.

5 Savoring the sunset along with a cocktail at Red Sky on the rooftop of CentralWorld mall. See page 28.

6 Browsing for unique decor pieces at Alexander Lamont, known for his European-style craftsmanship with Asian touches. See page 6.

7 Browsing for fun gadgets and stylish stationery at Another Story, a multi-label concept store inside Emquartier mall. See page 6.

8 Indulging in a long, lazy brunch at Gastro 1/6, where the adorable garden setting and delicious breakfast menu combines for a perfect morning. See page 12.

9 Tasting the creatively crafted dishes at Err, a riverside restaurant specializing in casual Thai dining. See page 27.

!0 Refueling with an earthy, cold-brew coffee at Rocket, the perfect afternoon pick-me-up. See page 12.

!1 Getting your adrenaline pumping at Chang Global Carnival, the city’s latest theme park. See page 30.

!2 Chowing down on the legendary kuy tiew kua khai (22) on the streets of Chinatown after dark. See page 19.

!3 Indulging in the delicious hot choc-olate and churros at Chu, a humble cafe that also dishes out some of the best breakfasts in town. See page 12.

!4 Washing our troubles away at the private tubs of Kashikiri Soda Onsen, the Japanese-style hotspring pools that also come with packages for aro-ma body massages, facial treatments and other spa services. See page 29.

!5 Checking out cutting-edge Thai home decor products at Room Con-cept Store, a multi-label lifestyle shop inside the luxurious Central Embassy. See page 7.

!6 Savoring the authentic royal Thai cuisine at Blue Elephant, a fine-dining institution in a beautifully restored mansion. See page 27.

!7 Enjoying a pampering session at W Bangkok’s Away Spa, where treatments range from a four-hand mineral scrubs to salon grooming services like pedicures and mani-cures. See page 29.

!8 Sitting ringside and blending with the local energy while watching a fight at Rajadamnoen Stadium, the official home of championship Muay Thai bouts. See page 30.

!9 Kick-starting the morning with sweet and savory crepes at Crepes & Co, a homey brunch institution set in a charming white house with a relaxing garden. See page 12.

@0 Partying at the three-story night-club DJ Station, the grand dame of gay clubbing that’s constantly packed with shirtless guys and danceable beats. See page 28.

@1 Taking a journey through the history of Siam at Museum Siam, a restored colonial-style building now turned into an innovative, technology-driven museum with plenty of interac-tive panels. See page 30

Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com

ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlan-do, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.

CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mis-sissauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg

EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

where in the world

3 91

!1 !8 !4

21things_Jun_2016_NEW.indd 34 5/24/16 4:26 PM

Where to find where Thailand

Hotels in BangkokThe AETAS Bangkok

All Seasons Bangkok Siam

Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11

Amari Watergate

Amara Bangkok

Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa

Arnoma

Baan Noppawong

Bally’s Studio Suites

Banyan Tree Bangkok

Best Western Sukhumvit

Cabochon Hotel & Residence

Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao

Centara Grand at Central World

Centara Hotels & Resorts

Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok

Conrad Bangkok

Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park

Dusit Thani Bangkok

Emporium Suites

Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn

Four Points by Sheraton

Four Seasons Bangkok

GLOW Pratunam

Grand Hyatt Erawan

Grand Mercure Park Avenue

Grand Millennium Sukhumvit

Holiday Inn Silom

Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22

Hotel Muse

Imperial Queens Park

InterContinental Bangkok

JW Marriott Bangkok

The Landmark Bangkok

Le Fenix Sukhumvit

LIT Bangkok

Luxx

Majestic Grande

Mandarin Hotel

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok

Marriott Sukhumvit 57

Mercure & Ibis Bangkok Siam

The Metropolitan Bangkok

Millennium Hilton

Miracle Grand Convention

Montien Riverside

Novotel Bangkok Ploenchit Sukhumvit

Novotel Bangkok Siam Square

Novotel Bangkok Impact

Oaks Bangkok Sathorn

The Okura Prestige Bangkok

Park Plaza Sukhumvit

Pathumwan Princess

The Peninsula Bangkok

Phachara Suites

Plaza Athénée Bangkok

Pullman Bangkok King Power

Radisson Blu Plaza

Radisson Suites Bangkok

Ramada Encore Bangkok

Ramada Plaza Menam Riverside

Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong

Riva Surya

Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers

Siam Kempinski

Shangri-La Bangkok

Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit

The Berkeley Hotel

The Continent Hotel Bangkok

The Davis Bangkok

The Eugenia Hotel & Spa

The Siam

Siam @ Siam Design Hotel & Spa

Sivatel Bangkok

Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit

Sofitel So Bangkok

The St. Regis Bangkok

The Sukhothai Bangkok

Swissotel Le Concorde

Swissotel Nai Lert Park

VIE Hotel Bangkok

ViVa Garden

W Hotel Bangkok

The Westin Grande Sukhumvit

Hotels in OtherProvincesAnantara Rasananda Koh Phangan Villa

Resort & Spa

Chandara Resort

Conrad Koh Samui

Dara Samui Beach Resort & Spa Villa

Dusit D2 Baraquda Pattaya

Dusit Thani Krabi Beach resort

Grand Mercure Phuket Patong

Hyatta Regency HuaHin

InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam

JW Marriott Khao Lak Resort & Spa

JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa

Le Méridien Koh Samui Resort & Spa

Renaissance Koh Samui Resort & Spa

Renaissance Phuket Resort & Spa

Santiburi Resort

Shangri-La Chiang Mai

Sheraton HuaHin Resort & Spa

Sofitel So Huahin

Tamarind Village Chiang Mai

ServicedApartmentsAdelphi Forty-Nine

Courtyard Marriott

Shopping MallsCentralWorld

The Emporium Department Complex

Peninsula Plaza

The River City Shopping Complex

OthersUber Black limousines

TAT Tourist Information Counter at

Suvarnabhumi Airport (arrivals)

Chao Phraya Express Boats

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC)

Blue Elephant Restaurant

Devarana Spa

Dean & Deluca

Elemis Spa at The St. Regis Bangkok

The Kiwi Bangkok Sports Pub & Grill

The Australian Pub & BBQ

Yunomori Onsen & Spa

Pizza Romana Pala

La Grande Perle

Kuppadeli

Kalpapruek

Jim Thompson Restaurant

Viva & Aviv

Mandarin Oriental At Paragon

Y Where reaches over 100,000 visitors each month. For sales enquiries, contact [email protected] or call 02-624-9638.

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where® thailand june 2016

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