where now for german wine

7/30/2019 Where Now for German Wine

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Where Now for German Wine?

As German vintners announce an above average 2002 harvest, the German wine lobby is

working to improve the beverage's image abroad.

Germans know how

good their wine is -

the rest of us

apparently don't

There is no getting

away from it. Next

to the ABC

(Anything ButChardonnay) rule,

bringing a bottle of

Liebfraumilch or Blue Nun to a dinner party is the equivalent of committing social suicid

-- German wine has a bad reputation.

But now plans are afoot to change all this.

The DeutschWeinVision 2020 is an attempt by the German wine industry to develop an

all-encompassing long-term strategy to improve prices for wine growers at home and

better the image of German wines abroad.Although it is still a work in progress, the first results and recommendations are expected

by the end of the year.

Small vintners cant cover costs

The strategy has been necessitated by severe problems currently facing traditional wine

growers in Germany. Many, mostly smaller, vintners who make wine in traditional

wooden barrels are not able to demand prices for their product which enables them to

cover production costs.

As a result, larger, more commercially viable producers are overtaking the smaller wine

makers. Rudolph Nickenig, spokesperson for the German Wine Association (VDW) told

DW-WORLD the problem of low prices was threatening the very existence of small

wine growers who produce top quality German wines.

Indeed, the number of smaller vintners has fallen dramatically over the past 30 years.

According to a government report published this month, Germany had 50,000 producers


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in 1979. By 1999, the figure had fallen to 34,440.

German wine - It used to be more

Germans used to drink a higher percentage of domestically-produced wine, of course,

Nickenig told DW-WORLD. Although Germans now drink more wine than beer

downing a whopping 24 litres per head each year - only 45% of this is German wine. The

remaining 55% hails from the vineyards of Italy, Spain, France and Chile among others.

German wine drinkers tend to be quite adventurous theyre very curious of whats

happening in New World wines for example. Thats why there is such a market at the

moment for foreign wines," he said.

German wines have long faced a bad rap abroad, often regarded as overly sweet. The

German wine Black Tower was recently re-launched in the UK to great irony in the

British press; they found the attempt to re-brand the wine nothing if not rather amusing.

Nickenig wants a chance to change this image of the 2.4 million litres of German wine

exported each year.

Of course some German wines are sweet, but many are very dry as well. Due to the

climate, our grapes produce wines which have very fruity aromas in the main, he said.

Good year for German wine, a "good-value"

The warm spring in Germany this year as well as a summer which lasted right into the

end of September has meant vines have had longer than usual to ripen. The harvest has

been better than the average annual yield of 10 million hectare litres according to wine

experts.

Im always very sceptical about it when producers start talking about good years,

Nickenig told DW-WORLD, but the good weather has meant the grapes have a high

sugar content and that basically means theyll make good wine.

A good year for wine and better lobbying for producers might well be the mix that will

save Germanys wine growers from extinction, although changing clichs about certain

German wines might well prove more of a challenge.

On that subject Joachim Basler wanted to make one thing clear. Black Tower and

Liebfraumilch really arent that bad, you know, he said. And I wouldnt call themcheap; more good-value."DW.DE

Discovering the Altmhl Valley


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EXPLORE GERMANY'S RIVERS

1 Rhine River Transformed Into Nearly Pristine Water Stream

2 A River Runs Through It

3 Discovering the Altmhl Valley

4 A Cycle Trip and Tipple Along the Moselle

5 A Picturesque Pedal Down the Rhine6 Cruising Germany's Great Rivers

The Altmhl is the slowest flowing river in Bavaria, which is not to say that nothing goes

on there. On the contrary, the Altmhl Valley is one of the most diverse regions in

Germany.

A jewel in Bavaria's

crown

The Altmhl Valley,

which is Germany's

largest natural park,

was created in 1969

with the aim of

protecting a rich

landscape of natural

delights and picturesque little towns such as the regional capital, Eichsttt, dating back

centuries.

The region is dottedwith old castles

For nature-lovers,

the best way to get

around is by foot or

bicycle, and with

800 kilometers (500

miles) of idyllic

bike tracksmeandering through

the region, there are many routes to choose from. The typical Altmhl landscape consists

of lush forests and gently rolling hills, dotted with juniper bushes and clusters of rocks.

One bike tour passes through picturesque little towns and villages, including Essing

which, set at the foot of high limestone cliffs, is one of the most popular images in the
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region. Also well worth a visit are Berching and Greding, which still have the look of

medieval towns, and Beilngries, famous for its pitched roofs and baroque facades

decorated with coats of arms.

Traces of times gone by

Perched high on the top of craggy rocks are formidable old castles which offer their

visitors the chance to sample opulent banquets of ancient fare and try their hand at

medieval games such as were once the pastime of knights.

The Limes, the

ultimate northern

border in the

Roman Empire

There are also signs

of the Celts and the

Romans. In fact the

Roman Limes

borderline runs

right through the

park and "Villa Rustica" in Mckenlohe gives an insight into country life during the

Roman era. And for those who want even more from that chapter of history, the Roman

museum in Weienburg is full of treasures.

The oldest monastic brewery in the world

Water enthusiasts can cycle all the way along the Main-Danube canal from Kelheim in

the south-east, to Berching in the north. The canal, which was completed in 1992, is so

much a part of the landscape that it's hard to believe it's not a natural waterway. A boat

trip down the canal passes the famous Weltenburg monastery, the oldest monastic

brewery in the world.

The Rhein-Main-Danube Canal

At the weekends,

the thousands of

tourists who make

their way there not


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only have the chance to sample the eight beers brewed on the stunning baroque premises,

but to take in the breath-taking view of the 35-meter (115-foot) high white cliffs through

which the Danube River forced its way many millennia ago.

The crowning glory of a journey through the Altmhl Valley is a visit Eichsttt, home to

Residenz Square, which one travel guide dubs the "most beautiful baroque place north of

the Alps." With its mirrored walls and fine molding depicting tales of Greek mythology,

the Residenz Palace itself is also worth a look. So, too, is the cathedral, with its beguiling

500-year-old stained glass window in the west cloister.

DW.DE

Second-Rate Grapes? German Wines have a Bad Rap

Diners in some of the worlds finest restaurants rarely ask for German wines. Cheap

wines like the ubiquitous Blue Nun have thrown a shadow over wines which

connoisseurs say are some of the most exciting around.

German wine has a

marketing, not

quality problem

The poor German

wine has been

called the ugly

duckling of the

wine world.

Dismissed as too

sweet or bone dry and dull, German wines for many have been relegated to the rarely

visited or thought about corner of the wine cellar.

Indeed, could there be anything more unfashionable than offering a guest a glass of

Liebfraumilch?

This bad reputation has made itself felt in the worlds top restaurants, where German

wine falls far behind French or Californian on the most requested list.

The French, well known for their chauvinistic leanings, prefer the home-grown stuff. And

even if one does manage to convince a French wine connoisseur that there are drinkable

wines produced outside of la belle France, finding a German wine in a restaurant to prove

your point will be challenging. German wines only occasionally appear on the menu and


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then are rarely ordered.

The same story holds true in Belgium. "Our guests rarely ask for German wines," said the

wine steward of the three-star restaurant "Comme Chez Soi" in Brussels. Diners here

prefer French wines 99% of the time. From the 2,000 wines on the menu, only four

German ones are to be found.

The Russians prefer looking further abroad for their wines. Chilean or South African

varieties are popular in Moscow.

In Japan, German wines are losing ground. While they once made up almost a quarter of

the wines offered in restaurants, over the past few years that percentage has fallen to

eight. Chilean or Californian wines do better there.

London is the only world capital where one will find a real appreciation for German

wines. "The acceptance seems to be growing," said Bettina Stricker with the German

Wine Information Office. Still, wine buyers here put German wines in third place behind

French and Californian.

Marketing, not Quality Problem

German wines suffer from an image problem, according to Kurt Beck, premier of

Germanys leading wine production state, Rhineland-Palatinate.

"Its not the German wine," complained Beck, "its the German wine marketing."

Most wines that people around the globe are familiar with, the household names, have

questionable quality at best. Take Liebfraumilch, for example. This wine is produced and

exported in large quantities, usually with inferior grapes from over-cultivated vineyards.

"The fact that wines like these dominate the image of German wine is a marketing

disaster, and a self-inflicted disaster," writes Peter Ruhrberg, a German wine aficionado

whose website encourages wine lovers to overlook the stereotypes.

The Experts are less Dismissive

While the general public may have a low opinion of the Teutonic grape, many wine

journalists, connoisseurs and trade insiders think German wines are some of the most

exciting on the market today.

Wine magazines often remind readers that the finest German wines, usually Rieslings, aresome of the best around. And even in the worlds wine capital Paris, German wines enjoy

a decent reputation.

And sommeliers are more and more willing to recommend German wines to their

restaurants, according to wine importer Terry Theise, especially the younger ones.

"They are a new generation of wine professionals," Theise said. "They were not trained to


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worship Bordeaux and Burgundy, they're not intimidated by anything and they're always

on the lookout for something different."

The Price is Right

Another advantage the German grape has is its price. As wine becomes more and more

trendy, prices for top vintages skyrocket.

While German wines, particularly the late-harvest ones, can reach similar astronomical

price levels as quickly as grand cru Burgundies and cult cabernets from California, there

are still bargains to be found.

"There is plenty of excellent German wine selling at prices that only gets you dish water

in Burgundy," said Peter Ruhrberg. "Im not the first person that predicts that German

wine will reach cult status in the near future. Now is the opportunity to be ahead of

fashion."

A River Runs Through It

EXPLORE GERMANY'S RIVERS

1 Rhine River Transformed Into Nearly Pristine Water Stream

2 A River Runs Through It

3 Discovering the Altmhl Valley

4 A Cycle Trip and Tipple Along the Moselle

5 A Picturesque Pedal Down the Rhine

6 Cruising Germany's Great Rivers

River-faring vessels have access to more than 7,000 kilometers (4,350 miles) of inland

waterways in Germany. Many routes are sought after by travelers who enjoy relaxing on

a cruise ship and letting the world drift by.

Go with the flow

and get to know

Germany from

another perspective

For some, a cruise

is the ultimate

upmarket vacation,

while for others it

means boring

bourgeoisie. But the

view from the deck of a cruise ship doesn't always have to be drab and monotonous.
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The alternative to a high-sea tour is to take an inland river cruise on one of Germany's

many trafficked waterways -- and take in German cultural history along the way.

Opportunities for multiple-day trips are plentiful -- whether on the Rhine, the Weser, the

Danube or the Moselle.

The River Rhine -- muse of poets and painters

The Rhine is Germany's most famous river, in part because so much has been written

about it.

The Loreley on the

Rhine has been an

inspiration to

creative minds for

centuries

It was mainly the

Romantic painters

and poets of the

mid-19th century

that turned their

attention to the water cutting through the western edge of Germany. Heinrich Heine

(1797-1856), for example, dedicated one of his world famous poems to the Lorelei cliffs

that overlook the Rhine near St. Goarshausen.

A trip down the Rhine can be particularly romantic, despite the occasional turbulence-

causing shallows.

Following the footprints of the Romantics

For the traveler interested in learning more about the history and culture of southern

Germany, a cruise on the Danube River would be a good choice. Europe's second longest

river, the Danube has a wealth of history to offer its visitors -- even the Romans left their

traces along the river.

Medieval

Regensburg is ahighlight on

Europe's second

longest river, the

beautiful blue

Danube


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The Danube flows by the medieval city of Regensburg, then crosses the German border

and continues on to Vienna and Budapest. Castles, chateaus and vineyards are visible

from the river and invite travelers to disembark and try their land legs.

Nature and culture

A river cruise on the Oder, Germany's eastern most river, is also an exploration of the

German-Polish border. Visitors glide past natural parks like the Maerkische Schweiz and

unique everglades like the Oderbruch.

Some unusual musicians

await visitors in Bremen

on the Weser

A river trip from

Magdeburg to Prague is a

good option for the

traveler with plenty of

time. The Elbe, the most

important waterway

between southeastern and

northeastern Europe, is

over 1,000 kilometers

(621 miles) long. The

Bauhaus city of Dessau and Martin Luther's Wittenberg are located near the banks of the

Elbe, as are Meissen with its china manufacturers and Dresden, the capital of Saxony.

Fairy tale travels on the Weser

Many German fairy tales and legends have their roots on the river. A traveler on the

Weser River, for example, passes through northern Germany where the legendary

musicians attract visitors to Bremen and, a bit further upriver, the Pied Piper whistles

river-drifters to Hamelin.DW.DE

Florence on the Elbe Turns 800

Dresden was once one of Europes most beautiful cities, but in 1945 Allied bombers

turned what was known as "Florence on the Elbe" into a pile of rubble. This year, the

German city celebrates its 800th anniversary.


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Dresden has a long

and rich history

Dresden probably

existed beforeMarch 31, 1216,

which was when an

ancient Slavic

settlement on the

northern bank of

the river Elbe was joined with a German town on the south bank. In 1216, Dresden got its

first official mention as a civitas -- Latin word for city. The city's name stems from the

old Sorbian word Drjedany, which means "person living in a forest or a flood plane."

Dresden grew out of obscurity when Saxon Duke Ablert settled there in 1485 and made

the city his capital. Dresden quickly grew into a splendid city of royal residence and

became the strongest fortification of the Saxon Electorate at the time.

Martin Luther stood

up against the

Catholic Church

In 1517, Martin

Luther published

his Theses in

Wittenberg

ushering in the

epoch of

Reformation in

Germany. In Dresden, however, Duke Georg the Bearded, who ruled Saxony from 1500

to 1539, still supported the old beliefs of the Catholic Church.

"But when Duke Georg died, the country was somehow prepared, and it didn't take long

before the Reformers took over control," said historian Karl-Heinz Blaschke.

"Duke Heinrich, Georg's brother, who was a Protestant, came to power the same night

that Georg died. And Reformation came into effect immediately -- from top down."

Under the rule of elector Moritz (1547-53), Dresden became the capital of the Lutheran

movement.

A city on the rise


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Dresden continued to flourish economically and culturally. Leipzig may well have been

the traditional commercial center, and Freiberg the capital of silver mining, but it was

Dresden that benefited the most from turing smelted ore into silver coins at its famous

Mnzgasse, or coin alley.

"In fact, the entire city of Dresden, the castle and all the other noble buildings, as well as

the cultural development in Dresden would not have been possible without all the silver

finds in the western Erz mountains," said Blaschke.

August the Strong

was immortalized

in Dresden as the

"Golden Rider"

When his older

brother Georg died

in 1694, August the

Strong suddenly

became elector. In

the years leading up

to his inauguration, he had traveled to Spain, Paris and Venice. This tour had had such an

impact on Friedrich August I that he wanted to combine the splendor of the Sun King's

possessions with the beauty of the lagoon in his home town Dresden.

"Think of August the Strong whatever you want, but there can be no doubt that Dresden

owes to him the beginning of its rise as an important metropolis. The only reason why

around 1700 the town which didn't have any economic advantages and whose then

20,000 inhabitants didn't have any specific abilities became a Baroque city of this

dimension was the determination of this elector," said Blaschke.

Pomp and circumstance

August the Strong turned the river Elbe into a German Canale grande and soon the royal

family would travel to Pillniz in their golden gondola. The domes of Santa Maria della

Salute in Venice served as a model for the Frauenkirche, which the Lutherans constructedto protest against August the Strong's conversion to Catholicism.


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The Zwinger Palace

is home to

countless

masterpieces

His son, Friedrich

August II, further

developed

Dresden's cultural

standing by

acquiring important

artworks like the Sistine Madonna and by building the world-famous art gallery, the

Zwinger Palace. Dresden soon attracted artists from all over Europe. But after the death

of Friedrich August II in 1763, the so-called Restoration Commission under the

leadership of Thomas von Fritschs helped Dresden -- a city that was formerly known

mostly for its power in the fields of politics and culture -- gain a strong standing also in

the field of commerce and trade.

"An infrastructure was developed to boost the local economy. Educational institutions,

too, that aimed at improving standards in elementary schools. And so Dresden gained an

entirely new flair -- also in its looks. New buildings were no longer constructed in a

Baroque style, but in the Classicist manner," Blaschke said.

Traces of history

Dresden is located on the direct path between Moscow and Paris. Napoleon took this as a

reason to march into the city in 1806. The French emperor made the city his base of

operations. Following the Vienna Congress in 1815, Saxony had to give away half of its

territory. This was the end of Dresden's dreams of gaining political importance on a

European level.

Famous German

architect Gottfried

Semper designedthe Dresden opera

house

Romanticists like

painter Caspar

David Friedrich and


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composer Karl Maria von Weber, or architect Gottfried Semper and composer Richard

Wagner, who spent time in the city, all contributed to Dresden's reputation as one of the

centers of arts. But apart from this, Dresden -- the Florence on the Elbe -- didn't play a

major role anymore in the struggle for power between Vienna, Berlin and Paris.

When the first German long-distance railway was built in 1839, Dresden gained access to

the European network of long-distance trade, and so the city grew into one of the crucial

centers of fine mechanics and luxury food industry. One of the most famous inventions

that were made in Dresden was the mouthwash. Another was toothpaste. Dresden was

also the cradle of the first German steam engine called Saxonia, as well as the first paddle

steamers in Germany.

The night of horror

85 percent of the

buildings in

Dresden were

destroyed in 1945

The memories of

the night of horror

on Feb. 14, 1945

have still not faded

away. That night,

Dresden was

subjected to a massive bombing raid of the Allied forces. Within hours, the architectural

beauty of Dresden collapsed and what was left behind was an expanse of ruins. More

than 20,000 people lost their lives. Today, survivors and descendants gather around in

front of the rebuilt Frauenkirche every year to light candles and share their grief.

For the citizens of Dresden, the bombing raids were a horrible experience, but today it

appears that the city wasn't quite as innocent as it had liked to portray itself for a long

time. During the war, Dresden was governed by Martin Mutschmann, one of the most

eager Nazi ideologists. And the Frauenkirche was the headquarters of Deutsche Christen(German Christians). This Protestant group was striving for a synthesis between

Christianity and National Socialism. And when Frauenkirche collapsed on Feb. 15, 1945,

this marked the beginning of the end for the entire Third Reich.

Neither 15 square kilometers of debris nor the famous large areas of GDR concrete tower

blocks have been able to destroy the particular charm of this 800 year old city. The


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famous "Frauenkirche" or "Church of Our Lady" that had been destroyed in the bombing

and whose ruins had long been a symbol of the atrocities of war, was rebuilt and

consecrated only last year.

DW.DE

where now for german wine

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