welcome to scandinavia & northern europe · welcome to scandinavia & northern europe...

Welcome to Scandinavia & Northern EuropeEffortlessly chic cities, many with charming historic centres, contrast with soul-stirring coastal scenery, remote wildernesses and cutting-edge urban design. Inspiring food and a full menu of seasons make Northern Europe a premium cruise destination.Stolid northern stereotypes dissolve in the region’s vibrant capitals. Crest-of-the-wave design can be seen in many, backed by outstanding modern architecture, excellent museums and galleries, imaginative solutions for 21st-century urban living, internationally acclaimed restaurants and a night-life that fizzes along despite sometimes-hefty beer prices.

A palpable sense of history is present throughout: the Vikings dominated these seas, the Hanseatic trading cartel put port cities on the map in medieval times, while the seismic impact of 20th-century events left deep scars throughout.

You’ll rarely come across the word ‘ecotourism’ in northern Europe, but those values have long been an important part of life here. Generally, green, sustainable solutions are a way of living, rather than a gimmick to attract visitors. Scandinavia, in particular, will likely be significantly affected by climate change and big efforts to reduce emissions are being made across the region. Travelling here, you’ll be struck by the excellent levels of environ-mental protection, the sensible ‘why don’t we do that back home’ impact-reducing strategies and the forward thinking so much in evidence. It makes for pleasurably enlightening travel.

soul-stirring coastal scenery, remote wildernesses and

cutting-edge urban design

A n d y Sy m i n g to n , A l ex is Ave r b u c k , O l i ve r B e r r y, A b i g a i l B l a s i , Cr is t i a n B o n e t to , M a r c D i D u c a , C a th e r i n e L e

N eve z , H u g h M c N a u g h t a n , B e c k y O h l s e n , L e o n i d Ra gozi n , S i m o n Ri c h m o n d , A n d re a S c h u l te - Pe eve r s , Re gis St L o u is ,

D o n n a W h e e l e rBergen, Norway (p126) ANDREY KHROBOSTOV/ALAMY ©

CRUISE PORTS SCANDINAVIA & NORTHERN

EUROPEA G U I D E T O P E R F E C T D AY S O N S H O R E

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Contents

Berlin, Germany 34...at a Glance 36

The Berlin Wall ��38The Reichstag �� 42Berlin Nightlife �� 44Historical Highlights Walking Tour �� 46Sights ............................48Tours ............................. 57Shopping ...................... 57Eating ............................58Drinking & Nightlife ...... 61Entertainment ..............65Where to Stay ...............67

Amsterdam, the Netherlands 68...at a Glance 70

Van Gogh Museum ��72Anne Frank Huis ��74Exploring the Jordaan Walking Tour ��76Sights ............................78Tours .............................83Eating ............................84Drinking & Nightlife ......86

Entertainment ..............88

Copenhagen, Denmark 90...at a Glance 92

Tivoli Gardens �� 94Designmuseum Danmark �� 96Cobbles & Cosiness Walking Tour �� 98Sights ..........................100Tours ............................101Shopping ....................104Eating .......................... 105Drinking & Nightlife .... 107Entertainment ............109

Oslo, Norway 110...at a Glance 112

History on Bygdøy �� 114All Along the Water-front Walking Tour �� 116Sights ...........................118Tours ........................... 122Shopping .................... 122Eating .......................... 123Drinking & Nightlife .... 125

Bergen, Norway 126... at a Glance 128

Bryggen ��130KODE�� 132Exploring the Fjords ��134Sights .......................... 136Activities ..................... 139Tours ........................... 139

Shopping .................... 140Eating .......................... 140Drinking & Nightlife .... 142Entertainment ............ 143

Stockholm, Sweden 144...at a Glance 146

Vasamuseet ��148Old Town Walking Tour ��150Sights .......................... 152Tours ........................... 156Shopping .................... 157Eating .......................... 157Drinking & Nightlife ....160

Helsinki, Finland 162...at a Glance 164

Suomenlinna ��166Helsinki’s Art & Design Walking Tour ��168Sights .......................... 170Tours ............................174Shopping .....................174Eating .......................... 175Drinking & Nightlife .....177Entertainment ............ 178

St Petersburg, Russia 180...at a Glance 182

The Hermitage ��184Church of the Saviour on the Spilled Blood ��190

Plan Your TripTop 12 ........................ 4Need to Know ..........16Hot Spots for... ........18Month by Month ..... 20Get Inspired ............ 23Local Life................. 24Choose Your Cruise...................... 26Sustainable Cruising ..................30Family Time Ashore .................... 32

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Orkney

Shetland

Gotland

Öland

Bornholm

Bay ofBiscay

KOLAPENINSULA

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BarentsSea

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AUSTRIA

BELARUS

CZECHREPUBLIC

GERMANY

DENMARK

FINLAND

FRANCE

GREENLAND

HUNGARY

IRELAND

ICELAND

LITHUANIA

LATVIA

MOLDOVA

NORWAY

POLAND

ROMANIA

SCOTLAND

SLOVAKIA

SWEDEN

UKRAINE

WALES

RUSSIA

Dniester

L o ire

Tisza

V is tu la

Volga

WARSAW

BRUSSELS

CHIŞINĂU

KYIVLONDON

LUXEMBOURG

BRATISLAVAPARIS

VILNIUS

MINSK

BUDAPEST

MOSCOW

BelfastMalmö

Kristiansand

Brest

Cardiff

Odessa

Rovaniemi

Lyon

Tver

Vaasa

Hamburg

Rennes

Lille

MurmanskTromsø

Smolensk

Zhytomyr

Kaliningrad

Munich

Luleå

Rouen

Pskov

Douglas

Edinburgh

Dresden

Nantes

Kraków

TrondheimPetrozavodsk

Lviv

Iaşi

Manchester

Birmingham

Glasgow

Sundsvall

Tampere

PRAGUE

VIENNA

DUBLIN

SHETLANDISLANDS

(p256)

COPENHAGEN(p90)

BERLIN(p34)

AMSTERDAM(p68)

REYKJAVÍK(p260)

ESTONIA

NETHERLANDS

BELGIUM

ENGLAND

NORTHERNIRELAND

OSLO(p110)

BERGEN(p126) STOCKHOLM

(p144)

HELSINKI(p162) ST PETERSBURG

(p180)

TALLINN(p206)

RĪGA(p222)

GDAŃSK(p238)

RUSSIA

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*St Petersburg’s Historic Heart Walking Tour ��192Sights .......................... 194Tours ........................... 199Shopping ................... 200Eating ......................... 200Drinking & Nightlife ... 203Entertainment ........... 204

Tallinn, Estonia 206...at a Glance 208

Kadriorg ��210Tallinn’s Old Town Walking Tour ��212Sights .......................... 214Activities ..................... 218Tours ........................... 219Shopping .................... 219Eating ......................... 220Drinking & Nightlife ... 220

Rīga, Latvia 222...at a Glance 224

Rīga Central Market �� 226Alberta Iela �� 228Art Nouveau Rīga Walking Tour �� 230Sights ..........................232Tours ...........................235Shopping ....................235Eating ..........................235Drinking & Nightlife ....237

Gdańsk, Poland 238...at a Glance 240

European Solidarity Centre �� 242Długi Targ �� 244Along the Motława Walking Tour �� 246Sights ..........................248

Shopping ....................252Eating ..........................252Drinking & Nightlife ....255

Shetland Islands 256

Orkney Islands 258

Reykjavík, Iceland 260...at a Glance 262

National Museum �� 264Blue Lagoon �� 266Golden Circle �� 268Sights ..........................270Activities .....................275Shopping ....................277Eating ..........................278Drinking & Nightlife ....282

In FocusScandinavia Today ...... 286History ......................... 288Landscapes ................. 298Wildlife ..........................301Food & Drink ................ 304

Survival GuideDirectory A–Z .............. 308Transport ...................... 312Index ............................. 315

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Plan Your TripScandinavia & Northern Europe’s Top 12

BerlinEdgy and innovative; a great European cityBerlin’s glamour and grit are bound to mesmerise anyone keen on exploring its vibrant culture, edgy architecture, fabulous food, in-tense parties and palpable history. Since the Wall’s demise in 1989, the German capital has become sophisticated, retaining its indie spirit and penchant for creative improvisation. Visit major historical sights – the Reichstag, Brandenburger Tor and Checkpoint Charlie – then feast on a smorgasbord of culture in myriad museums. Above from left: East Side Gallery (p39); Brandenburger Tor (p48)

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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amsterdamWorld-class art and sublime canalscapesThe Dutch capital is one of Europe’s most vibrant cities, luring visitors with its top-notch art, urban vitality and watery geography. Amsterdam made its fortune in maritime trade, and its Canal Ring was constructed during the city’s Golden Age. Stroll alongside the canals and check out the narrow, gabled houses and thousands of houseboats; relax on a canal-side café (pub) terrace; or, better still, go for a ride. Top: Van Gogh Museum (p72); Bottom: Herengracht canal (p88)

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copenhagenTrailblazing city in numerous waysWhile this 850-year-old town retains its historic good looks (copper spires, cobbled squares and pastel-coloured gables), the focus is on innovation. Denmark’s capital has a thriving design scene, a futuristic metro, and clean, green developments. Its streets are awash with effortlessly hip shops, cafes and bars; world-class museums and art collections; brave new architecture; and 15 Michelin-starred restaurants. Dining room at Geranium (p107)


osloElegant art city on the riseOslo is aiming to become nothing less than a world-renowned centre of art and culture. It’s al-ready bursting at the seams with superb museums, art galleries and a glacier-white opera house (pic-tured right) that could make even Sydney jealous, but in the past couple of years it has achieved a striking rebirth of its waterfront district complete with daring architecture, a grade-A modern-art gallery, new restaurants and even a beach. This is a city on the rise. Inside the Oslo Opera House (p119)

BergenStunningly beautiful Norwegian waterside citySet amid a picturesque and very Norwegian coastal landscape of fjords and mountains, Bergen is one of Europe’s most beautiful cities. A celebrated history of seafaring trade has bequeathed to the city the stunning waterfront district of Bryggen, an archaic tangle of wooden buildings. A signpost to a history at once prosperous and tumultuous, the titled and colourful wooden buildings now shelter the artisan boutiques and traditional restaurants for which the city is increasingly famous.

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StockholmStately, handsome monarch of the BalticSweden’s capital calls itself ‘beauty on water’, and it certainly doesn’t disappoint: its many glittering waterways reflect slanted northern light onto spice-hued buildings, and the crooked cobble-stone streets of Gamla Stan are magic to wander. Besides its aes-thetic virtues, Stockholm also has wonderful museums, first-class dining and great shopping. Its clean and efficient public transport, and multilingual locals, make it a cinch to navigate.

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helsinkiArchitecture and design-driven archipelago capitalIt’s fitting that harbourside Helsinki, capital of a country with such a watery geography, melds so graciously into the Baltic; half the city seems to be liquid. It’s a quirky, innovative place with legendary design shops, striking contemporary architecture and a humming music scene. On the other hand, its older charms are also lovable; savour the spacious elegance of its centenarian cafes and the care-ful preservation of Finnish heritage in its numerous museums.


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St petersburgImperial splendour; magnificent art and cultureThis grand Baltic city is quite a sight. Grand imperial palaces line the embankments of the Neva River, its tributaries and canals. Restoration has been pains-taking – and the results are breathtaking. Little can prepare most visitors for the scale and quality of the exhibits at the State Hermitage Museum, an almost unrivalled history of Western art, while the famed Mariinsky Theatre offers the ultimate in classical ballet and operatic experiences. Interior of St Isaac’s Cathedral (p195)

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tallinnEnticingly atmospheric medieval jewelThere was a time when sturdy walls and turreted towers enclosed most of Europe’s cities, but war-time bombing and the advent of the car put paid to most of them. Tallinn’s Old Town is a magical win-dow into that bygone world. Rambling lanes lined with medieval dwellings open onto squares once covered in the filth of everyday commerce but now lined with cafes and altogether less gory markets selling souvenirs and handicrafts. From right: Katariina Käik (p219); Traditional knitwear


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reykjavíkSmall but perfectly formed island capitalThough petite, Reykjavík boasts all the treats you’d expect of a Eu-ropean capital. With kilometres of nothing but nature all around, it’s Iceland’s confirmed repository of all things cultural. Striking mod-ern architecture and excellent museums mean there’s plenty to see, and the fabulous local cafe-bar culture is invigorating. There’s also great shopping, from sleek, fish-skin purses to knitted lopap-eysur (Icelandic woollen sweaters) and nature-inspired jewellery. Top: Colourful houses; Above left: Hallgrímskirkja (p271); Above right: Knitted jumpers

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GdańskClassic Hanseatic mercantile portColossal red-brick churches peer over slender merchants’ town-houses, wedged ornately between palaces that line wide, ancient thoroughfares and crooked medieval lanes. A cosmopolitan residue of art and artefact, from a rich maritime and trading past, fills whole museums; tourists from around the world compete with amber stalls and street performers for cobblestone space. Once part of the Hanseatic League, now it’s in a league of its own.

RīgaA treasure trove of art nouveauAsk Rīgans where to find the city’s world-famous art-nouveau architecture, and the answer is always ‘Look up!’ More than 750 buildings in Latvia’s capital – more than any European city – boast this flamboyant, haunting style. Spend an afternoon photograph-ing the imaginative facades in the Quiet Centre to find an ethereal, almost eerie melange of screaming demons, enraptured deities, overgrown flora and bizarre geometrical patterns.

welcome to scandinavia & northern europe · welcome to scandinavia & northern europe...

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