Univerita Cattolica Sacre CuoreMaster Food Identity

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Protected traditional Italian Product: Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia DOP

Tutor: Made by:Gabriele Canali Tina Kocova

February 2012Piacenza

1. Description of the product and of its production process, with reference to the specific rules defined for PDO if and when applicable.

Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia (ABT di RE) is not truly a vinegar, but a condiment. It is produced by the fermentation of sugar and the acetic browning of boiled grape must, made by pressing the grapes grown in the province of Reggio Emilia. The grape varieties grown and harvested in the area are the following: Trebbiano, Occhio di Gatto, Spergola, Berzemino and all the various Lambrusco Reggiano DOC varieties, namely Marania, Salamino, Maestri, Montericco, Sorbara and Ancellotta. (1) These varieties are given by the Consortium of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia. Besides them, in the Code of Conduct for this product the varieties Sauvignon and Sgavetta are also mentioned. (2) The characteristic parfume of the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar comes from the combination of these highly fragrant grape musts which are rich in esters. (1) Grapes intended for the production of ABT di RE have to produce must with a saccharometer reading of 15O or more, and the maximum production, in the case of viticulture-only holdings, must not exceed 160 quintals per hectare, with a maximum yield in terms of must of 70%. (2,3)In practical terms, the grapes are pressed and put into vats. As soon as the seeds and stalks float to the surface, the must is drawn off, filtered and boiled over low heat. (1) For the production of PDO balsamic vinegar, the must is cooked at atmospheric pressure in open containers. After the reduction in volume brought by cooking, the minumun sugar content of the cooked must may not have a saccharometer reading of less than 30O. (2,3)The use of musts with fermentation arrested and/or containing additives or substances is prohibited. (3)The must is then stored in tanks where the vinegar starts to ferment with the coming of the warm wheather, converting the sugar into alcohol (1). The fermentation rooms have necessary ventilation and a natural range of temperatures (2,3). Once the alcohol content has reached 6 or 7 degrees, colonies of acetic acid bacteria are added to help the acetic browning process. (1)This is how the base vinegar is prepared, which is used to fill barrels made of different types of wood: chestnut, oak, mulberry, junuper, cherry, ash and locust tree (3), that will give the Balsamic Vinegar its exceptional personality during the long aging phase. (1) The series of barrels is called a battery and needs to count at least 5 barrels (4). At least 12 years are needed for the optimum maturation, ageing and after care of ABT di RE. This process does not involve the use of any substances other than cooked must, or any physical or chemical process.(2,3) Each type of wood lends its own special note to the vinegar: tannin-rich chestnut helps to enhance its caracteristics dark colour; cherry wood sweetens its flavour; mulberry makes it more concentrated; the strong resins of juniper wood enhace its aroma; and oak generally used for the smaller barrels adds a final touch of masterly flair. (1)The different types of wood and the barrels in gradually decreasing sizes give stability and intensity to the aroma of the Balsamic Vinegar. There can be up to 20 different barrels that gradually get smaller and smaller. The largest 100-litre barrel contains the boiled must whereas the smallest 10-litre barrel is used for the precious and fragrant outcome. (1) The barrel are not filled to the top, but around ¾ of the entire volume. In addition,every barrel has a hole in the centar-top position. Through this hole air gets to the microorganisms, so that they can continue living and multiplying. However, all the holes are covered with a piece of material in ordre to prevent insects or some particles of entering the barrel. (4)Traditionally the best place for balsamic vinegar to age and mature is the eaves or the attic of a house because it will be more exposed here to the extremes in temperature with the changing seasons. (1) These extremes allow good and vivid fermentation during the summer, but also stop all fermentation processes during the winter. Thus, the balsamic vinegar cleares itself naturally and all the solids precipitate to the bottom of the barrel. (4) As the vinegar ages, it is important to keep topping it up. This is done once a year to make sure the barrel always contains the same amount of vinegar as it did at the

start and compensates for the liquid lost through evaporation. (1) Topping the barrels also gives new food for the bacterias and yeasts, especially in the first barrels of the battery. In this manner, they are revitalised (4). Barrels are topped up with vinegar taken from the next barrel up. The skill, experience, nose and palate of the Master Vinegar Maker are essential elements for the success of topping up. His task is analysing the complexity of the flavour and aroma of each individual barrel and assessing the level of maturity that will be achieved after topping up from the larger barrel, its characteristics revitalized by the younger vinegar. (1) The extraction of the liquide used for topping, or even extraction of vinegar for sensory analysis and bottling, is done from the top hole of the barrel, from the top of the liquide inside. It is never done from the bottom, as the solid deposits are left in the barrels for about 13 to 15 years. (4) The organoleptic specifications of the vinegar have to be assessed by Master Tasters who award Certification and ultimately decide if a vinegar is worth of being called Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia. (1) Considering instrumental measurements, the finished vinegar needs to have total acidity of 5Oor more, expressed in grams of acetic acid per 100g of product, and density (at 20OC) of 1 200 g/cm3 or more.When the product satisfies the minimum requirements set out in the rules of production (Code of Conduct) and has passed a series of analytical and organoleptic tests, it is put in special 10-25 cl glass bottles shaped like an inverted tulip. (2,3,5) The dimension of every aspect of the bottles is defined in the Code of Conduct, for instance the hight of the bottle, of the neck of the bottle, maximal diametar of the bottle, minimal diametar of the neck of the bottle etc. (2) The bottling process take place also in the province of Reggio Emilia. (2,3) When packing takes place a seal and a stamp with a number belonging to a series are attached to the bottle. No indication may be given as to the year of production, the age of the product or the date on which production began at the vinegar production premises. The following may however appear on the label, tag or neck label: general historical information on the origins of the product and its consumption, the date of bottling, and possibly an indication as to the barrels of origine and some technical information on production. (3) The words Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia (the adjective “tradtional” must always appear), are put on the label (5).Sometimes, the vinegar may be considered unfit. In that case, it is poured back into the barrels and allowed to age more before subject to the certification procedure at a future date (5). 2. Description of the geographical area where the product can isproduced with reference to main social, environmental and economic aspects (number of producers, their economic dimension, …)

The geographical area of production is Reggio Emilia and its province. ABT di RE is one of the most important typical and traditional food stuffs of the Regio area. Its characterisics and the fact that the production is fairly limited, have helped to forge the economic success and reputation of the product in Italy and abroad. (3) All the grapes are grown in the province. The obtaining of the must, its cooking, fermentation and aging are also done there. And finaly, the bottling of the final product and its labeling are performed in the same area (1,4).

Picture 1 – geographical location of Reggio Emilia

a) the link between the teritory and the product from an environmental point of viewThe province of Reggio Emilia has specific climate that allows the production of this high quality balsamic vinegar. The summers are hot and dry giving perfect conditions for the browning of the vinegar, for its evaporation and then its concentration. The winters are cold and as such help the processes of sedimentation and decantation necessary for the pureness and clarity of the vinegar. (1)The close links between the product and the local conditions in terms of soil and climate are confirmed and underpinned by the ban on accelerated and/or artificial aging techniques, including those based on induced changes in temperature, humidity and ventilation in the vinegar production rooms.The fact that the raw material comes solely from Reggio Emilia vineyards that produce quality wines psr precludes the possibility of the characteristics of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia being reproduced anywhere else in that area. (3)

b)the link between the territory and the product from a social point of viewABT di RE is a product with a rich history associated directly to the region of production and the families from that region. One of the basic reasons for this is the fact that the process of production takes from one to several decades. Besides that every family adds its specificity to the production process that represents their unique product.The earliest ancient writings in which the product Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia is mentioned date back to the year 1046. That is when the Emperor of Germany, Henry III was traveling to Rome for his coronation. He made a stop in Piacenza and wrote to Boniface, Marquis of Tuscany, asking for a gift of a special vinegar which “he had heard flows in the most perfect manner”. Boniface had a cask made out of silver to contain the precious nectar and sent it on a carriage, and the king “was quite pleased with this magnificent gift”. It was said that within the walls of the Canossa castle a formidable array of barrels used for making balsamic vinegar existed and a vinegar, like and elixir and balsam, was produced which was craved desperately by the royalty. All of this history can be found in the poem “Vita Mathildis” by the monk Donizone. He was the main biographer of the Great Countess Matilde, daughter of Boniface, Marquis of Tuscany. (1,3,5)In addition, it is also known that during the 12th, 13th and 14th centuries, in Reggio Emilia, Scandiano and in the other main towns of the territory, the vinegar producers organized themselves in consortia where all members jealously guarded the secrets of production. The members had to swear that they would never reveal the secrets of the precious elixir. (1,3,5)The main usage of the vinegar was mostly medical, such as when Lucrezia Borgia was giving birth, or as a remedy for sore throats, difficult breathing, indigestion, to cure bites by poisonous animals, fainting, as a hearth tonic and perhaps surprisingly as a powerful aphrodisiac. In that connection, the name “balsamic” suggests the idea of a prodigious medication kept by the more fortunate and considered a cure for any illness and a wholesome balm capable of invigorating delicate stomachs and

reviving the appetite. (1,3,5)In the Renaissance period, after the imperial approval this product was often enjoyed by kings and nobility, in particular by the Dukes of Este. In 1476, when Alfonso I, Duke of Ferrara, came to reign, the history of balsamic vinegar received a decisive boost. The whole of the ruling dynasty in the duchy of Modena, Reggio Emilia and Massa, across the centuries up until 1859, enriched the accounts of the history of the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar. (1,3,5)In the third Satire (1518) by Lodovico Ariosto (who was born in Reggio Emilia and is considered greatest secular poet of the Italian language) dedicated to his cousin Annibale Malaguzzi, it is written: at home, I prefer a cooked turnip that I stab with a stick and peel and sprinkle with vinegar and saba (cooked must). (1,3,5)During the 1800's, the Balsamic Vinegar was found in the archives of local notaries often as part of the dowry lists. At that time it was a custom to enrich the dower of noble women with jars of the precious balsamic vinegar and sets of little barrels with the same product. Besides that the sets of barrels used to make Traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Reggio Emilia were considered important enough to be included in wills and passed down through the generations. The barrels were often specifically mentioned in wills drawn up by local notaries. (1,3,5)Nearer to present day, in 1986 (5)/ 1987 (1) the Consortium of Producers of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Reggio Emilia was founded with the purpose of presenting excellent products to the market. Thus, it started planning production regulations in order to define methods and assure quality. It decided that the identification of the quality of the products, before sale, would be done by a “boards” of independent tasters, whose judgment would be final. (1) The Consortium was liable to inspection by the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies (5). When the product was placed on the list of PDO products, on 20th March 2000 (3) , the Consortium of Producers of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Reggio Emilia was exonerated from carrying out checks, as having the sign of quality set the rules (1,5).

c) the link between the territory and the product from an economic point of viewThe data that are given here are statistics for the years 2006 and 2007. Concerning the number of enterprises that are involved in the production of this product and the quantity that has been produced, a slight decrease can be seen from 2006 to 2007. That is shown in table1. (6)

Table 1- information about the enterprises involved in the production of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia (6)

Enterprises of interest 2006 2007Number of agricultural enterprises 19 27

Number of artisan/industrial structures 46 46

Number of enterprises with a certified product

65 (of which 28 can do bottling) 63 (of which 33 can do bottling)

Number of enterprises connected to the Consortium

65 63

Produced and certified quantity 581 000 L 543 000 L

Quantity of potentially certifiable product in the area of production

150 000/200 000 L 150 000/200 000 L

Today, the number of enterprises which have a certified product and are connected to the Consortium counts only 25 producers (1). That means that the production of this balsamic vinegar is facing

problems. One of them may be the production of a very similar product, Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena (ABT di M). The number of producers in the mentioned years was almost 3 times bigger (6). Nevertheless, the certified quantity produced was around 11 000-10 000 liters for the years in question and the area of production for ABT di M is bigger that Reggio Emilia. Besides that, the producers of ABT di M might be prospering better because they have bigger revenues, as their product is being sold with somewhat higher price and it is mostly sold in the sector of the market where it has a bigger price. The price of a book package 100ml bottle of ABT di RE in whole sale was 35 euros in 2006 and 2007. In wholesale ABT di M, is sold in two forms: affinato and extravechhio. The first one had a price similar to ABT di RE, but the second one was 55-85euros and 55-65euros for each year respectfully. In retail the three types of ABT di RE (Lobster red, Silver and Gold Label) are all sold at a price of 60 euros both years. However, ABT di M has higher prices: affinato 70-100 euros in 2006 and 70-90 euros in 2007; extravecchio 120-160 euros in 2006 and 100-140 euros in 2007. In direct sale, the book package 100ml bottle of ABT di RE is 65 euros for both years, where as for ABT di M affinato is 40-45 euros and extravecchio is 70-85 euros also for both years. (6) Apart from the price of the product, what is important is also the sector of the market where the product is mostly present. For ABT di RE, it was mostly sold in the external market in 2006 (60% of production), where as in 2007 it was the opposite. In the internal/Italian market, this product was mostly sold in traditional distribution (around 80%) in 2006. Still, in 2007, probably because of better promotion and organization, the role of the direct sales and other types of sales augmented (together around 60%). That could be the cause of higher revenues in 2007, despite lower production. The markets of ABT di M are more or less stable. The sales are equally divided between the internal and external market. In the internal market the product is mostly presented in direct sales. The second place is taken by the traditional distribution. (6) All in all, the revenues for ABT di RE for 2006 were 800 000 euros in wholesale and 1 050 000 euros in retail and in 2007, 900 000 euros in wholesale and 1 200 000 euros in retail. For ABT di M, the revenues are almost 10 times bigger in whole sale and 16 times bigger in retail in 2006 and 9 and 14 respectfully in 2007. (6)In the end, it is odd that ABT di RE produced in a smaller area, by a smaller number of producer has a significantly higher produced and certified quantity than ABT di M. And still, their revenues are significantly lower.Another problem that the producers of ABT di RE might have is the production of fake balsamic vinegar. Those products steal the market, destroy the reputation and damage the economy of the producers, but also of the country. (7)

3. Description of different varieties of the products and of different identification / traceability system, and/or branding strategies

a) Varieties of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio EmiliaIn the Code of Conduct of ABT di RE, there is only one basic variety or type of this vinegar. After at least 12 years of aging, if the product has passed the analytical and sensorial examination, it is marketed with the name “Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia”. These words are put on the label and the adjective “Traditional” must always appear. This is a procedure that protects the consumers and helps them to choose the product. A type of a sub-variety of this balsamic vinegar is mentioned also in the Code of Conduct. It is the “extra vecchio” (extra old) balsamic vinegar. These words are applicable for products that have been aged for no less than 25 years. (1,2,5) However, on the site of the Consortium for the Protection of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Reggio Emilia, until the 25th January 2012, three other sub-products were mentioned: Lobster Red/Crimson Label, Silver Label and Gold Label. On the web-sites of most of the producers, this product is presented by this three sub-

varieties. Their distinction is made on the basis of minimal aging time and sensory characteristics. The youngest product, aged little more than 12 years, has a light, delicate fragrance with a good degree of acidity (5). It can be marked with the Crimson Label. After aging the balsamic vinegar between 12 and 25 years/ 18 years , the product becomes thicker, with a strong, slightly sweeter fragrance (5). Then it benefits from the Silver Label. The Extra-vecchio product, aged at least 25 years, is extraordinarily rich in fragrance and harmony, with sweet rather than sharp undertones (5). This one has a Golden Label. Nonetheless, some producers are using only two of the labels in compliance with the rules set in the Code of Conduct. One of those producers is Il Borgo del Balsamico that has in its palette Silver Label Traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Reggio Emilia (in Italian also marked as “affinato”-aged more than 12 years) and Gold Label Traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Reggio Emilia (in Italian also marked as “extra vecchio”-aged more than 25 years). (8)

b) Traceability systemProducts deemed suitable have to be bottled in the province of Reggio Emilia, exclusively in the appropriate containers of the shape and size set out in the production regulations. All bottling activities have to take place in the presence of the Certification Body entrusted with carrying out checks on the filling up of the phials, their closure and sealing with wax and, at the end of the operations, to hand them over to the producer, complete with progressively number stamps able to guarantee product traceability. (1)

c) Producers branding strategiesThe producers of ABT di RE can not be considered exclusively as producers of this condiment. The range of products that they present on their web-sites varies from small range of vinegars, condiments and similar products to all sorts of food products. For instance, Acetaia del Casato Barteloni makes 12 products, amongst which can be found: balsamico di Modena IGP, condimento nonno novello, nuvola condimento nero e bianco, fragranza bianca e fragranza nera, fragranza tartufo e fragranza frutti di bosco, balsamico di Modena, condimento bianco dolce, balsamico trad. affinato, balsamico trad. affinato extra vecchio, besides balsamico trad. di Reggio Emilia. (9) Acetaia Dodi, which exists since 1891, puts in the first place the presentation of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia and the product Rizerva di Familia (a type of vinegar and condiment). Nevertheless, besides these two products they have a variety of vinegars, cremes, olive oils and jams. In that context, they produce Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, Capriccio Di Valeria, Buon Condimento, Saba, Crema Nera, Crema Bianca, Condimento Bianco Barricato, Olio extra vergine di oliva 100% Italiano Biologico, Gelatina di Aceto Balsamico di Modena, Vellutata di Fragola e Aceto Balsamico di Modena. (10) One of the producers with most diverse products may be Ferratini. Besides balsamic vinegar (Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia and Aceto Balsamico di Modena), they produce: prosciutto crudo, prosciutto cotto, sapori di parma, salumi, affettati, parmigiano reggiano non ogm, burro non ogm and different wines. (11)

Picture 3 (left) – ABT di RE, producer Lini190;

Picture 4,5,6 (center) – ABT di RE, producer Acetaia DodiPicture 7 (right) – ABT di RE, producer Il Borgo del Balsamico

Although all of these producers have a quite different palette of products, they all brend and emphasize ABT di RE in the same manner. The production is divided into 3 sub-groups that represent the Lobster Red, Silver and Gold Label. As it can be seen on the pictures, the label of the level of quality is the part that catches the eye. It is quite big and emphasized in order to be easily recognized. However, every producer ties a little booklet on the neck of the bottle, thus presenting himself.This is the most basic manner of presentation of ABT di RE. On a higher level, the branding of the product is done making packages. Acetaia Dodi has three types of packages: fine dropper package (shown in the three middle photos), ampoule bottle package and three seal package. (10) All of them are referring to times passed. The producer Il Borgo del Balsamico makes packages of the single product, but by putting a more modern note to it. They have a distinctive purple box where parallel to the mark of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia, the mark of the producer is also clearly visible (shown in the photo on the right). (8)

4. Description of main sensorial characteristics

The sensory characteristics of ABT di RE are defined in the Code of Conduct. The colour is deep, dark brown, limpid and bright. It has a slippery, syrup-like consistency, with a substantial density. The aromas are penetrating, persistent and fragrant, having pleasant acidity and distinctive 'bouquet” due in particular to the wood used for the barrels. The flavour is sweet and sour at the same time, well-balanced. It has considerable acidity and aroma in harmony with the olfactory character. (1,2,3)

In the absence of the opportunity to taste ABT di RE, I have tried the very similar product from Modena. Their production process is very similar, with a difference in the region of production. Nevertheless, the two provinces are close to each other in the region of Emilia Romagna. The sensory characteristics of ABT di M, defined in the Code of Conduct are the following. The colour needs to be bright and dark brown. The consistency like a runny syrup. The aroma is characteristic, fragrant and all-together well formed. There is a penetrating and persistent bouquet with a noticeable but pleasant and harmonious acidity. The flavour is characteristic for balsamic vinegar, in line with an unchanging centuries-old tradition. It is sweet and sour and well-balanced, with an appreciable acidity and a hint of aroma imparted by the wood used for the vats. The flavour is strong, clear, full, velvety, intense and persistent, in keeping with its characteristic bouquet. (12)The sensory character was viewed from 4 different aspects: visual aspect, olfactive, taste and tactile sensations and retroolfactive aspect. For the evaluation of a part of the visual aspect, a small quantity of the product was taken in a small glass and put in a thin layer on the walls of the glass. It can be seen that the colour is dark brown, close to black and the balsamic vinegar is clear. It means that although it is opaque, it does not have big particles or pieces. To analyze the viscosity or consistency of the product it is taken with a specialized pipette and its flow or dripping is viewed. This product (tasted at the end of January) had a sauce or syrup-like consistency.

Pictures 8 (left) – glass for sensory analysis of traditional balsamic vinegarPicture 9 (right) – how the sensory analysis was done

Considering the olfactive characteristics, it needs to be mentioned that the conditions where the product was tasted were not appropriate for sensory analysis. In this context, it can be said that the product was considered not having a very strong olfative intensity. However, several different descriptors were noticed. First of all is the smell of cherries, dried fruits and oranges, then of spices and wood, and in the end chocolate and caramel. When its taste and tactile sensations are discussed and evaluated, in the beginning the sweetness is tasted with the tip of the tongue, then the acidity, astringentness and bitterness in the inside of the mouth, an in the end the body of the vinegar can be appreciated (4). This traditional balsamic vinegar is a little bit more sweet than acidic or bitter, nonetheless if tasted all at once the sweetness is hidden by the acidity and bitterness. The condiment is also a bit astringent, but not at all pungent. The body can be marked with a 5 on a scale from 0 to 9. Concerning the retroolfactive characteristics, at the beginning flavours of marmalade and dried fruits can be perceived and than of oranges, grapes and cherries. It needs to be added that although the product is perceived as more fruity in flavours, in regards of the inappropriate conditions for sensory analysis, the spicy and herbal notes, as wood in general or specific types of wood, might have been missed.

5. Development of a simple SWOT analysis (according to knowledge and information collected): Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities and Threats.

Table 2 – SWOT analysis for Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio EmiliaStrengths Weaknesses

- convenient climatic and environmental conditions for production- long and strong history- appreciation by the consumers- limited production- manual production- high class product- high prices- PDO product

- it is not a unique product; similarities with ABT di M-long and delicate process of production- meticulousness needed - small production area-big quantity produced, small revenues in comparison to ABT di M- no persistence and dedication by all the producers

Opportunities Threats- development of the market in direct sales and other sales- good presence on the external market

- existence of imitations- existence of a twin product: ABT di M- one producer making both traditional balsamic vinegars- reduction of the number of producers with time

In table 2 is presented the SWOT analysis of ABT di RE. It is visible that although the product has many strengths, it also has many weaknesses. In addition, there are more threats than opportunities.

This all relates to the problems the producers, the production and the product itself are suffering. All the strengths the product has add value to it. But, on the other hand, all of this strengths are shared by its twin product, ABT di M. This presents a strong weaknesses and a strong threat in view of the better organization and prosper of that product and production. In addition, the producers of ABT di RE are not well organized as in the years 2006/07 there was very high production and very small revenues in comparison to ABT di M. That could be one of the reasons for the drop in number of producers. Also, this product had not made a stable market in 2006/07, where as that is not the case for its twin.

In conclusion, the producers of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia are faced with a lot of problems that influence the survival of the product. They need better organization and guidance in order to prosper.

Bibliography:1- http://www.acetobalsamicotradizionale.it/visited on 21st January 2012 at 15:00

2- http://winecountry.it/disciplinari/balsamicoRE.pdfvisited on 3rd February 2012 09:34

3- http://ec.europa.eu/agriculture/quality/door/registeredName.html?denominationId=60visited on 25th January 2012 19:54

4- class and visit

5-http://www.lambruscoreggiano.it/it/images/riconoscimenti/triplice.pdf visited on 31st January 2012 18:39

6- Mauro Rosati, Luigi Verrini et al, (2008) Atlante Qualivita I prodotti agroalimentari italiani DOP IGP STG, Deaprinting officine Grafiche Novara 1901 SpA, Edizioni del Gusto, Milano, pp 735-742

7- http://www.italymag.co.uk/italy/emilia-romagna/fake-balsamic-vinegars-damage-economyvisited on 7th February 2012 at 16:41

8-http://www.ilborgodelbalsamico.it/italiano/index2.phpvisited on 3rd February 2012 at 21:30

9- http://www.acetaiadelcasatobertoni.it/prodotti.php?lang=2visited on 3rd February 2012 at 21:30

10- http://www.acetaiadodi.it/uk/default.htmlvisited on 3rd February 2012 at 21:30

11-http://www.ferrarini.it/prodotti/la-gammavisited on 3rd February 2012 at 21:30

12- http://ec.europa.eu/agriculture/quality/door/registeredName.html?denominationId=59visited on 31st January 2012 at 19:00

Aceto Balsamico Di Modena (IGP)

Student:Maryam Rezaei

Professors:Novella Bagna

Gabriele Canali

February 2012

Table of content: Page

Definition of the product 3

History 3

Geographical area 4

Technology of product and packaging 6

System of classification 7

Traceability system 8

Sensory analysis of the product 9

SWOT analysis 10

Bibliography

Definition:

Balsamic vinegar Is the highest expression of the acidic fermentation of grape juice, the one that

transform and alcoholic liquid into an acetic one, strongly characterized with a precise aroma and flavor. Although different varieties of grapes can be used to create balsamic vinegar, In order to ensure that Aceto Balsamico di Modena acquires the properties described in Article 2, the grape must should be produced from the following vine varieties: Lambruscho, Sangiovese, Trebbiano, Albana, Ancellotta, Fortana and Montuni and it must have the following characteristics:

- Minimum total acidity: 8g/kg (only for boiled and concentrated must)- Minimum dry extract content: 55g/kg (only for boiled and concentrated must)

According to official journal “Council Regulation (EC) No 510/2006‘Aceto Balsamico di Modena ’EC No: IT/PGI/005/0430/18.11.2004 PDO, PGI” In order to obtain the PGI certification, certain vineyard characteristics are imposed by law, although the vines can grow outside the Modena Province. Certain production rules also have to be followed:

Analytical:

- Density at 20 °C no less than 1.06 for the refined product;- Actual alcohol strength no more than 1,5 % by volume;- Total acidity no less than 6 %;- Total sulphur anhydride no more than 100 mg/litre;- Ash: no less than 2,5 per thousand;- Net dry extract no less than 30g per litre;- Reducing sugars: no less than 110g/litre;

Organoleptic properties:

- Clarity: clear and bright;- Color: deep brown;- Aroma: persistent, delicate and slightly acidic with woody overtones;- Taste: bitter-sweet, balance

History:

Balsamic Vinegar has been synonymous with the culture and history of Modena (in other words, the old Este Dukedom) since longtime.The term "Balsamic" is relatively new and was used for the first time in the records of the ducal inventories of the Este Palace in Modena in 1747; probably the name derived from the healing uses to which the vinegar was put at the time.  With the birth of the Italian State (1860) the new motivation given to the markets generated a gradually increasing interest in Balsamic Vinegar which emerging from its traditional mystery and family ritual, met with great success.The manuscript notes of Count Giorgio Gallesio (1839), an agriculturist of the time famous for his massive work "La Pomona Italiana"( a major study on fruit growing) are the oldest "technical" document to describe the way in which Balsamic Vinegar was made in the Modena area. First, it divides the vinegars into two categories: those made from cooked must only and those made from "fermented must and wine". He described the former as "exquisite" and the latter as "also excellent".At the end of the 19th Century, Modena Balsamic Vinegar started to appear at the leading exhibitions, attracting great interest not only within Italy but also at the international level. The first scientific investigations into the products available on the market were also conducted in these

years.The best-known producer of the time (1605) was Giuseppe Giusti, and the family firm still plays an active part in the Consorzio Aceto Balsamico di Modena.From the regulatory point of view, the first ministerial authorization to produce "l'Aceto Balsamico del Modenese" dates from 1933.More than thirty years later, in 1965, Presidential Decree n. 162 of 12/02/65, containing regulations to prevent fraud in the preparation and sale of wines, musts and vinegars, established the definitive rules governing vinegars and related products, and "legalized" the use of special quality designations for vinegars produced by special techniques and in accordance with specific rules, including "Aceto Balsamico di Modena".1965 also had the drafting of regulations published in the Gazzetta Ufficiale on 12th December 1965, covering the “Compositional characteristics and method of preparation of Modena Balsamic Vinegar”. In 1994 the producers decided to both protect and improve the vinegar's production regulations, but above all to ensure the proper use of the designation in the wholesale and retail trade.( http://www.consorziobalsamico.it/ING/storia.htm)

Geographical area:

“‘Aceto Balsamico di Modena’ must be produced within the provinces of Modena and Reggio Emilia”. This region has a long history and rich culture on producing Aceto balsamico (DOP and IGP).  Ideal temperature conditions and the appropriate wine varieties have made this area the only place in the world where for centuries balsamic has been produced. The area around Modena in the region of Emilia Romagna is marked by a climate with sharp differences in temperature, and Trebbiano and Lambrusco typical regional grapes. Both these factors are important to the production of balsamic. Designation of region has provided a significant contribution to the livelihood of the local population through the revenues of farmers and the agro-food chain in general, as well as through the indirect benefits originating from related activities like agro-tourisme i.e.i balsamic producer’s tours. According to the consortium of aceto balsamico di modena, 27 companies are involved in all the steps of manufacturing. In 2010, 51.78% of all the affiliated firms of balsamic vinegar in Italy (102 members out of 197) were located in Emilia Romagna along with 3 companies with their headquarters within the region. (Cellars and packing unites are out side of Emilia Romagna).Distribution of the production unites in the region is:Bologna 5, Forlì Cesena1, Modena 154, Parma 3, Ravenna 14, Reggio Emilia 37, Rimini 1. Considering that this PGI is relatively young and 2010 was the first full year of operation under the rules of European Union, there was a significant increase in terms of the number of the companies in compare to 2009.The quantity of the production monitored by CB(consortium) in 2010 was 26965.43 tones of “cooked must” and 88,727,436 gallons of “balsamic vinegar of Modena IGP”. The certified amount shall be 88,503,193 gallons of “balsamic vinegar of Modena “ in compare to 22,3455,44 in 2009 and 44,505,577 gallons of bottled “balsamic vinegar of Modena” in compare to 9,630,323 in 2009.(A noteworthy increase over a year)Of all the balsamic production, more than70% is exported to all the countries around the world.

“Each stage of the production process must be monitored by the inspection body according to the monitoring plan, with all inputs and outputs recorded. This, along with the compilation of specific lists managed by the inspection body of the land registry parcels in which the vine growing and growers, must producers, processors and bottlers are located, and timely notification to the inspection body of the quantities produced, packaged and labeled ensures product traceability. All natural and legal persons recorded in the lists may be subject to checks by the inspection body, according to the terms of the production specification and the corresponding monitoring plan.”( http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:L:2009:175:0007:0011:EN:PDF)

Technology of product and packaging:

The process of making balsamic begins when the grapes are absolutely ripe. They are harvested, crushed and pressed into a juice called “mosto”. At times if the sugar level of the grapes is too low, they are further ripened in wooden boxes left in the sun for sometimes before crushing. The “must” is then cooked in open pots in order to be exposed to the sun and air(oxygen)over a direct flames and allowed to simmer for 30 minutes to 24 hours, until it becomes intensely sweet concentrate, reduced in volume by more or less one third(70% of the juice). While it simmers, the sugars of the grape caramelize slightly, giving the liquid an orangey shade. This unfermented juice, called “cooked must” is then cooled, allowed to settle, put in the stainless steel or wooden barrels for 60 days of aging. Vinegar is produced by two steps of fermentation; the first is the conversion of fermentable sugars to ethanol by yeasts, usually Saccharomyces species (anaerobic reaction), and the second is the oxidation of ethanol by bacteria, usually Acetobacter and Gluconobacter to acetic acid CH3COOH (aerobic reaction) inside the barrels.

CH3 – CH2OH + O2 → CH3 – COOH + H2

If putting in stainless steel barrels, the balsamic is transferred to the wooden barrels for longer aging up to three years and more. As the balsamic ages, pH drops from 3 to 2.56.after getting the approval of the experts that the vinegar is ready to be distributed, vinegar is pumped in filling line to be put into the bottles.Here are the rules mentioned in the article 2 of the official journal about the procedure of the production of aceto basamico di Modena IGP:“Aceto Balsamico di Modena is obtained from grape must that is partially fermented and/or boiled and/or concentrated by adding a quantity of vinegar aged for at least 10 years and with the addition of at least 10 % of vinegar produced from the acidification of wine only. The percentage of boiled and/or

concentrated grape “must” should not be less than 20 % of the volume sent for processing. The concentration increases until the initial amount of must attains a density of no less than 1,240 at a temperature of 20 °C.A maximum of 2 % by volume of end product of caramel may be added for colour stability. No other substance may be added. Production of ‘Aceto Balsamico di Modena’ must follow the customary method of acidification using selected bacterial colonies or using the well-established method of slow acidification with wood chippings, followed by refining. In any case, acidification and refining take place in high-quality wood receptacles, such as sessile oak, chestnut, oak, mulberry or juniper, within a minimum period of 60 days from the date at which the raw materials are assembled and ready for the preparation period. The receptacles in which ‘Aceto Balsamico di Modena’ is released for direct consumption must be made of glass, wood, ceramic or terracotta with the following capacity: 0,25 litres; 0,50 litres; 0,75 litres; 1 litre; 2 litres; 3 litres or 5 litres; and in single-dose sachets of a maximum capacity of 25 ml made of plastic or composite materials, bearing the same wording as that on the labels of bottles. The following stages must take place in the geographical area of origin: assembly of raw materials, processing, refining and/or ageing in wood receptacles.”

System of classification:

With the growth and commercialization of Balsamic Vinegar of Modena internationally, many con-sumers have been left very confused as per what quality they are really seeing , what quality is best for certain usages, and why there is such variation in price points of different Balsamic Vinegar of Mod-ena.

Therefore the Acetum and Mazzetti Company along with the association of Italian balsamic tasters (AIB) and independent certification agency (CSQA) developed an independently certi-fied system to standardize the whole industry of applicable producers of balsamic Vine-gar of Modena which today is the only independent and most reliable grading sys- tem for the product.

The study was conducted on actual consumers and chefs who came up with the four “Leaf” quality categories of Balsamic Vinegar of Modena which each have distinctive fla-vor, aroma, analytical, and density characteristics..

The certified products bring a small colored strip, printed on labels. The strip carries a Chef's hat logo, with a varying number of vine leaves on top of it,

from one to four. The number of the leaves, and the color of the strip, indicate consumers in a precise and easy way the level of the quality they are going to buy and to use. A neck-tag on each bottle tells the differences among the 4 qualities, and the most appropriate usage for each of them.

-The One Leaf (red strip) category is marked by moderate density and it is the type of balsamic Vinegar essentially used for salads;-The two Leaves (silver strip) has a higher syrupiness, and it is suggested both for salads and for BBQs and marinating;-The Three Leaves (gold strip) appears a s a vinegar distinguished for its sweetness, with scents of wood and spices, especially suggested for cheese and strawberries-The Four Leaves (black strip) is an exceptionally thick Balsamic, perfect for all the culinary usages.

The Consorzio Aceto Balsamico di Modena (CABM) trademark, which is only granted to consortium members who observe the strictest standards in every phase of the process.The Consortium’s mark certifies:•Production and bottling in the Province of Modena; •Better standards regarding the density of aged products

-The Bordeaux red seal states that the product has beenmatured in wooden barrels for a minimum of two months up to a maximum of three years and bottled in the origin zone.

-The white seal states an ageing for over three years in wooden barrels and a minimum density of 1,150.

-The golden seal indicates a “short supply chain” product and certifies the origin of all raw materials from the sole province of Modena

Traceability system:

“According to the PGI rules, packaging must bear the name 'Aceto Balsamico di Modena' along with the wording 'Indicazione Geografica Protetta' (protected geographical indication) written in full or abbreviated, in Italian and/or in the language of the country of destination. The name 'Aceto Balsamico di Modena' may not be qualified in any way, even in numerical form, other than by those adjectives expressly provided for in this specification, including 'extra', 'fine', 'scelto', 'selezionato', 'riserva', 'superiore', 'classico' or similar. Only the word 'invecchiato' (aged) without any further additions may also appear, provided that the product is aged for a period of three years or more in casks, barrels or other wooden receptacles.”

Sensory analysis:

The sensory analysis which was carried out on five different samples based on PDS test is resumed below:

Visual Aspect

- Color saturation (black/brown)- Viscosity

Olfactory Aspect

- Fruity (dry fruits, fresh fruits, cooked fruits)- Vegetable (fresh, wood,..)- Olfactory intensity - Pungency - Fermentation(Alcohol ,acetic acid)- Abnormal smell(petrol, glue)- Empyreumatic (burned, caramel , smoked)

Taste/texture in the mouth

- Acidity - Sweetness- Pungency - Astringent - Umami- Body

Retro-nasal

- Fruity (Fresh, dry, cooked, jam)- spicy- Empyreumatic(caramel, toasted)- Abnormal(Iron)- Flowery

SWOT Analysis:

Strength

- Short aging time(60 days) that in-creases the capability of production

- Leading product in it’s kind in the in-ternational scaleHigh economic turnover for the producers/high ex-port rate

- Lower price in compare to Aceto bal-samico di Modena(DOP)

- Possibility of creativity by develop-ing new products based on balsamic such as sauces with different flavors

Weakness

- High scale of production can com-promise the capacity of supervision on the workers

- Difficulty in verifying if the exact standards for IGP product are being implemented in the vast area of pro-duction

- Limited capacity of production(IGP) in case of high demand

Opportunity

- Higher accessibility for the con-sumers as a result of the low price

- Sustainable source of income for the region

- Coherent coordination among the producers through the consortium

Threats

- It can easily get imitated and influ-ence the reputation of the old produc-ers of Modena

- High potential of fraud (adding caramel to enhance the color, in-crease the viscosity by heating bal-samic in the microwave...)

- Lack of information in other coun-tries about the real characteristics of the product

Bibliography:

Negative

Positive

http://www.acetum.it/index4.htm

http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:L:2009:175:0007:0011:EN:PDF

http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:C:2007:152:0018:0019:EN:PDF

http://www.assaggiatoribalsamico.it/index2.htm

http://eng.acetobalsamicodelduca.com/category/products/balsamic-vinegar-of-modena-products

http://www.modenabalsamic.com/

http://modenafinefoods.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/Leaf-System-Caracteristics-and-Usages.pdf

http://www.central-access.eu/wp-content/uploads/public/Food/Agro-Food%20Overview.01.pdf

http://www.acetum.it

http://modenafinefoods.com/Documents/Mazzetti_IGP_or_PGI_announcement_2009.pdf

http://www.consorziofiliera.it/english/statuto.html

http://www.italianharvest.com/artisans.php/tmpl/33