vol 50 issue 11 wednesday, october 28, 2015 online www.excal.on.ca @excaliburyu /excalweb @excalphotos

XCALIBUE /excalweb @excalphotos /excalweb @excalphotos

6-11EXCALIBUR FINDS ITS FASHION FOOTING IN OUR FASHION SUPPLEMENT

RYAN MOOREnews editor

A number of senators took to the microphone in last weeks senate meeting to express their concern for the new University Academic Plan, a plan which Senator Craig Heron thinks should refl ect Yorks core strength, which is, or could be, a unique commitment to the liberal arts.

In recent years, Heron alleges, we have been taking the liberal arts for granted, or even neglecting them, while promoting more oc-cupationally focused programs.

The critical mass of intellectual

strength we have built up here in the liberal arts has also enabled us to reach out across disciplinary boundaries to create rich cultures of interdisciplinary and multidis-ciplinary research and teaching, which have become a hallmark of Yorks reputation.

Enrolments may be slipping in some liberal art departments, but that cant be entirely surprising since as a university we have not pro-moted the study of those subjects, argues Heron. He states that the celebrated This is My Time market-ing campaign ignored liberal arts.

At the end of the meeting, President and Vice-Chancellor Mamdouh Shoukri took to the

podium, expressing his agreement with Senator Herons sentiments that the liberal arts represent the core of any university, and as such, must be protected and supported.

As a leader in the liberal arts, York has a responsibility to pro-mote their role in society and to continue to develop programs that attract the next generation of stu-dents and scholars, says Shoukri.

Whether our students are studying in one of our professional schools, in the liberal arts, or any other stream, we want to ensure that they not only learn specifi c skill sets but combine them with a broad range of communication, leadership, and other skills to prepare them as

they enter a work world that is in-creasingly seeking a mix of so-called hard and soft skills.

Vice President Academic and Provost Rhonda Lenton then re-ferred to the fact that York students benefi t from broader-based, inter-disciplinary studies, which prepares them for skills and attributes that are valued in todays workforce.

Senator Ricardo Grinspun ad-dressed a number of important questions, speaking from a per-spective of critical liberal arts.

As the administration has prioritized other orientations of the university, there has been a steady erosion in that diff erentia-tion, trying to re-imagine York as

a comprehensive, market-driven, brand defi ned, bureaucratized, and some may argue, even a corpora-tized institution, says Grinspun.

Grinspun adds, this pattern of diminishing unit level autonomy is gradually shifting into a more top-down administrative hier-archy, and academic freedom is also being gradually restricted and compartmentalized.

With fi les from Alex Kvaskov

bookstore

Yorks bookstore goes under the knifeThe bookstore begins to look like an abandoned warehouse after addressing consumer buying patterns

ALEX KVASKOVassistant news editor

Yorks bookstore is up for a major renovation starting this fall for the first time in 27 years as the university responds to changes in consumer behaviour and flooding damage over the years.

Separated into two phases, the renovation is expected to last two years and see changes in the overall design and content of the bookstore. Book-store director Steven Glassman says the renovations are supposed to boost the bookstores efficiency as floor space is set to shrink 25 per cent.

As a result, our rent will be reduced. The smaller space will be compensated by a reduction in office space, under-utilized space, corridors, as well as the addition of fixtures that hold more products, he says.

The new store will have a gen-eral book and periodical section including our academic titles, but it will be somewhat reduced in size and scope to refl ect customer

buying patterns, he adds.The move has not been without

controversy.Although York assures students that

unpopular books remain on display throughout the year, after which theyre returned to publishers, concerns have been raised regarding this process.

I dont know what the buying patterns are, says linguistics professor Marcia Macaulay. If the bookstore is saying that students and professors dont buy academic or general books at the bookstore, I would want the data on that.

Macaulay wonders how many books are ordered and returned.

Steve Glassman states that books stay on the shelves and have to be returned after nine months. This doesnt make too much sense to me, she adds. In every fi eld there will be a number of classics that should always be in the shelves, but there will also be new important titles. A university bookstore should stock both.

Feedback continues to fi lter in regarding the bookstores functions

being changed.Good bookstoresare an exten-

sion of the learning process. Loss of this function diminishes the univer-sity as an academic space. It makes it a lesser place, says Macaulay.

Neither York nor the York Uni-versity Development Corporation responded to Excalibur in time for publication on whether faculty had been consulted about the renovation.

Nevertheless, Glassman remains upbeat.

This is all extraordinarily good news for anyone who loves books, textbooks included, and no doubt there are tens of thousands of book lovers at our university, he says.

With fi les from Ryan Moore

Head online for more on the happenings of

Yorks Senate

GRAVE CONCERNS FOR LAPS ANIMATES SENATORS TO RISE FROM THE DEAD

photo by ryan moore

Head online to fi nd out more about the renovation and the impact on students

Faculty openly concerned of disintegration of space and cuts to academic materials.

Debates ensue over the future of education and LAPS at Yorkphoto by michael zusev

excalibur2 news october 28, 2015

news

crime

Spooky indecent acts reported near Assiniboine and SentinelSecurity bulletin released to community as director of York security notes incidents are similar

RyAn MooRenews editor

Police are investigating a series of indecent acts occurring on two separate dates in the village. The suspect is described as male,

medium complexion, five feet eight inches to five feet 10 inches, average to heavy build, short black hair, short beard, wearing grey or brown pants, and a black top.

York Security Services received reports of the suspect performing indecent acts near the location of Assiniboine Road and Sentinel Road in the village.

Aldo Altomare, director, YSS, is not certain whether the same sus-pect committed both indecent acts, though the description and general location are similar enough to link the two incidents, he says.

Additionally, security has not been able to make a connection to suggest this suspect has engaged in indecent acts before, on and around campus. There is no photo of the suspect that security is aware of at this time.

Security bulletins are issued with regard to incidents that occur on York property when there is a pattern of recurring incidents, or when incidents are near or adja-cent to the university.

Five indecent acts were reported from May to July of this year. Only five indecent acts were reported for the 2014-2015 academic year, and only four the year before, showing a 25 per cent increase of indecent acts.

Excalibur has been reporting on indecent acts occurring on campus and abroad throughout the year.

Not all York crime is released in the form of security bulletins. The previous indecent act was reported on September 29.

Should you have any informa-tion about this or any incident you are asked to contact Toronto Police Service directly at 416-808-2222. Vague description of the suspect is released as police begin their investigation.

crime

york student openly criticizes security bulletin practices University neglects to issue security bulletins, despite reporting them previously

Alex kvASkovassistant news editor

Some community mem-bers might be unaware of the criminal activity on campus.The universitys Weekly

Security Incident Log lists six incidents of sexual assault, sexual harassment, and one incident of indecent exhibition covering the period from late July to the present day.

Although York has issued security bulletins for sexual assault and indecent exposure, the university only issues no-tices to the community under specif ic circumstances.

As an example, a sexual as-sault on September 2 was not reported by York via secu-rity bulletin. According to the WSIL, a suspect was arrested in connection with a sexual assault of a non-community member at the Farquharson Building pending an investiga-tion by Toronto Police Service.

Mandi Gray, PhD student and organizer of Silence is

a community member who was charged by TPS for sexual assault.

You would think there would be a security bulletin issued to notify others who could potential-ly be victimized by him, says Gray.

But the understanding from security and York administration is that because I did not see him as an immediate threat to my safety, it did not warrant a security bul-letin, she adds.

Therefore, because the TPS charged the individual, it is likely justified for not releasing a security bulletin to the York community.

York issues security bulletins when a serious incident has occurred and there is a risk of recurrence.

It also claims bulletins are issued when it would assist investigations by bringing forth witnesses and information.

Gray claims security bulletins are not issued when the victim and perpetrator know each other.

A hierarchy of sexual violence occurs at York much like in larger society where stranger assault is worthy of a security bulletin whereas if the perpetrator and victim are known to one another,

little action is taken as it is reduced to a case of domestic violence, she says.

Again, relaying this back to my case, another huge issue for York to not take my case seriously or to issue a security bulletin is because it is being treated as an issue of domestic violence.

Gray says York regards her case as less serious because she knew her offender, which does not put the larger community at risk.

Basically, security bulletins do not provide information for students to actually keep them-selves safe and rather perpetuates discrimination and stereotypes.

Janice Walls, York media, says York considers a variety of infor-mation gathered from its own investigations and police, includ-ing details of the offence, location of the incident, and any charges laid or conditions imposed.

It then determines if there is a low-risk of recurrence or if the safety of the community is at risk, she adds.

Walls points to the fine print of Yorks bulletins, stating that they are issued with regard to incidents

photo by krizia tehrani

Violence, says York has a very narrow understanding of community safety in the con-text of sexual violence.

Security bulletins are only

released for sexual assaults that occur when there is a perceived risk of recurrence. However, their understanding of 'risk' is informed by a very narrow security lens and fails to under-stand the complexities of sexual violence.

Gray says she was assaulted by

A hierarchy of sexual violence occurs at York much like in larger society where stranger

assault is worthy of a se-curity bulletin, whereas if the perpetrator and victim are known to one another,

little action is taken as it is reduced to a case of

domestic violence.Mandi Gray, PhD student and Silence is violence organizer

when there is a risk of recurrence, as well as if the security of police investigation needs information from witnesses.

photo courtesy of joel brun

excalibur

endowment

York resurrects weapons investments in latest endowment

Student union endorses YUDivest campaign, forms coalition

COLOUR PAGE

october 28, 2015 news 3excalibur

RYan MooRenews editor

at their last board meet-ing, the York Federation of Students passed a motion to endorse the YUDivest campaign and join the coalition with Amnesty Inter-national at York and Students Against Israeli Apartheid in response to York's investments in weapons manufacturers.

Yorks endowment fund has dropped one weapons manufac-turer and gained another.

Detailed holdings in the summer showed investments in Textron, the industrial conglom-erate vested in the development of high-tech weaponry, such as cluster bombs. Textron cluster bombs were used by the Saudis to attack Yemen in June. However, the latest endowment report is absent of Textron.

Instead, FLIR Systems has been added, a company dedicated to defence technology such as sur-veillance, military grade security, weapons sights, and artillery forward observer systems.

Students argue that York should not be investing in weapons because of the universitys stated commitment to social justice, and a policy should be implemented to prevent York from investing in weapons companies.

Although FLIR Systems is returning this fiscal quarter, it is not necessarily a new investment, as York has previously invested in the company. Investments change

quarterly, meaning York may reinvest in the same companies or invest in different companies the following quarter.

The YFS passed a military divestment motion in August and formally endorsed the YUDivest campaign on October 14. The motion states:

As student leaders, it is our duty to push the university and its Board of Governors to reaf-firm a progressive commitment to social justice and divest from any companies that manufacture military arms and technologies used in war.

The YUDivest campaign was started by Students Against Israeli Apartheid last year.

"It's significant that our democrat-ically elected undergraduate student representatives decided to adopt the YUDivest campaign, which calls on the Board of Governors to divest from weapons companies," says Eman Alashqar of SAIA.

"Also, it is meaningful that the York chapter of foremost human-rights organization, Amnesty In-ternational, has decided to adopt the campaign as well."

Hasbara at York, the pro-Israel group, condemns the YFS adop-tion and support for the BDS motion and YUDivest campaign.

This campaign deliberately isolates the Jewish state of Israel based on false allegations, says Ariella Daniels, Hasbara at York president. The YFS represents over 50,000 undergraduate students and should facilitate dia-logue among students to increase

students' level of knowledge and awareness about issues pertaining to the Middle East, adds Daniels.

We encourage the YFS to take on a more balanced stance on the Arab-Israeli conflict and reject this policy as it brings division to the York campus.

York media spokesperson Joanne Rider said York uses best practices in developing its policy on investments and is built on advice from major investment consulting firms.

The university has been advised that the best approach to make a difference is through active engagement, where Yorks investment managers work with these companies to address any concerns.

Investing in socially and envi-ronmentally responsible compa-nies is a difficult task, considering investment managers have little control, if any, over how a com-pany's products will be used. This is true especially if unauthorized third-parties somehow comman-deer the end product.

Evidence of this is Yorks cur-rent investment in NetApp Inc., a company whose surveillance equipment was sold by a third-party to the Syrian government.

Head online for the story on NetApp in

the extended editionexcal.on.ca photo by michael zusev

Textron is dropped within Yorks endowment fund, but FLIR Systems returns.

mental health

Senate stabs mental health as a priority for the academic yearA sub-committee is working on amendments to senate policy that will help accommodate students with disabilities

excalibur4 news october 28, 2015

EulalEE lumSdEndeputy copy editor

Yorks senate executives recently announced their commitment to include mental health aware-ness as a priority for the 2015-16 academic year.

The senates sub-committee on Equity Initiatives is currently working on amendments to the senate policy on Accommodations for Students with Disabilities, and will now consider how mental health can be addressed by senate.

Lesley Beagrie, vice-chair, senate and co-chair of the Mental Health Steering Group at York, says, the committee has been overseeing the development and implementa-tion of the mental health strategy

for the university since President Mamdouh Shoukris endorsed it in March 2013.

Beagrie says the committee is aware mental health is imperative to positive learning and work-ing environments. It is for that reason that our strategy does not just focus on students but includes staff and faculty well-being, she says.

At this time, our focus is on hearing from the community on our priorities for the next few years, and to that end are inviting comment on our recommenda-tions as posted on the Mental Health and Wellness website.

On October 29, members of the Mental Health Strategy project will host the Mental Health Confer-ence for Student Leaders. With an

expected 200 students in atten-dance, the conference will serve as an information and training ground, as well as an open forum for students to consult on future strategies for York.

Maya Ameyaw, chief returning officer of Jack.org at York, has been part of the consultation process between faculty and students.

Since mental health topped the Centre for Human Rights list of

complaints, it is good to hear there is examination being done on what could make the accommodations process a positive experience for more students, she says.

Although the university is taking steps toward a more mental-health-conscious campus, there is still much that needs to be done.

At the moment, I think mental health is really segmented in that there are [only] a few organizations

spreading awareness, says Indie Kaur, president of Active Minds at York. It needs to be a collective issue that is woven through all aspects of campus life.

The Mental Health Steering Group will re-evaluate progress every three years to ensure a progressive movement toward cre-ating and maintaining a mentally healthy campus.

social justice

XaO: Expression against Oppression

event highlights personal hardships

Feminist theorist bell hooks spoke to a packed Curtis Lecture Halls during XAO series hosted by the YFS

Zack FEnEchcontributor

The York Federation of Students organized XAO: Expression Against Op-pression last week to raise awareness about social jus-tice and equality issues happen-ing on and off Yorks campuses.

The series of events, spanning over the course of a week, chal-lenged different discrimination issues, including Islamophobia and racism, to discussion concerning intersectional feminism, LGBTQ rights, and consent culture.

I think the idea of consent workshops is great, in theory. In practice, I'd question how successful a consent workshop is at the university level. It's not a mandatory thing. You go if it interests you.

So if it interests you, I'd imag-ine that you (hopefully) already practice consent, says Erica Orofino, York and Excalibur alumna.

A consent workshop is most effective when it's a mandatory part of the education system, says Orofino. The younger, the better. The more non-nego-tiable, the more ingrained into younger minds, the more we educate young men and women from the roots up, the more it becomes second nature.

Keynote speaker, feminist theorist, and author of over 17 published works, bell hooks, ap-peared on campus to deliver an insightful and thought provok-ing lecture to a sold out Curtis Lecture Halls.

hooks lecture also covered many of the themes the XAO series aimed to promote.

During much of the militant black power movement, says hooks, anger and rage were the emotions anti-racist advocates fixed on, as an essential catalyst for liberation struggle.

That highlight of anger, as a basis for resistance was far more appealing as an organizing tool than the issue of internal-

ized racism or even a focus on self-determination, she says. She related to how the same motifs exist to this day and age.

A question and answer period followed the lecture.

What are your thoughts on anti-blackness? asks an audi-ence member.

The idea that its not just increasingly difficult for black people to be in predominantly white spaces or white suprema-cist spaces, but even in mo-ments when we are in solidarity with other people of colour we get the same idea of anti-black.

Havent we agreed that the world is white supremacist? And that because we eternalize this we cant escape it unless we decolonize our minds, answers hooks.

No matter what group you join, what church you go to, if there isnt a decolonization pro-cess, youre going to encounter some aspect of that.

The series of events fought for marginalized voices with students representing dif-ferent organizations, from Amnesty International at York to the York United Black Stu-dents Alliance.

Not only did we want to showcase our club, but we wanted to raise awareness about the social injustices and human rights violations that are taking place around the world, says Sameena Khalfan, direc-tor of promotions at Amnesty International at York.

We hope to inform and engage students about these issues through our club. At the Social Justice Fair, our goal was to gather signatures for Am-nestys Stop Torture Campaign, which is one of many petitions we try to participate in.

We also wanted to let stu-dents know, especially those entering their first year, that we have many volunteering op-portunities available and events planned.

excalibur

What we do with the space we funded is our business and our business only, right? Perhaps we do have the right to sleep on our re-spective couches and office floors.

But as clich as this sounds, questions remain on whether or not our student space is officially public space.

october 28, 2015 editorial 5

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Dreaming up creative uses of student space

editorial

michael burtoneditor-in-chief

letters to the editorThe Excalibur opinions section welcomes typed, double-spaced letters (no longer than 300 words). all submissions must be accompanied by the writers name, major, year, and telephone number/email address. Submissions longer than 300 words will be sent back to be shortened. all submissions will be edited for clarity, spelling, and grammatical errors. all editing is up to the discretion of the editor.

Materials deemed libelous or discriminatory by Excalibur will not be printed. all opinions expressed in the opinions section are those of their authors and are not necessarily those of the Excalibur staff, editorial board, or Board of Publishers.

Send submissions to our office at 420 Student centre, fax to 416-736-5841 or email to letters@excal.on.ca. Please embed submissions in the body of the email.

i slept in my office last night. i vowed to never do this, but the morning commute has been grinding away at my psyche, and i had the bright idea to actually commute to York the night before, sleep on an Excalibur office bench and then write a mid-term that started at 8:30 a.m.

at around midnight i was half asleep and i fell off one of the benches, wrapped myself back up in a sleeping bag, and proceeded to sleep on the floor. around 3 a.m. janitors busted into the office, said oh, theres someone sleeping, then continued on to change gar-bage bins, leaving all the lights on in the office. i gave them a thumbs up and they continued with their nightly business.

i ended up saving myself close to two hours of commuting and avoided the 7 a.m. rush hour completely. am i brilliant or am i crazy? lets just say im not ruling out doing this again.

More importantly, this is the perfect time to reflect on the whole concept of student space, which may or may not be consid-ered public space.

leaving the Student centre at roughly 7:55 a.m., i saw an assort-ment of bodies stretched across the various couches throughout the building. Some did indeed look like students, some didnt exactly fit the description of a student. it seems as though there arent just students using our stu-dent space, but some community

members as well. it wasnt exactly the time and

place for my inner journalist to kick in, but i think i painted an accurate picture for you. We made eye contact and i wanted so very badly to ask if this person was a student. But i didnt.

So what are we really using this space for? is the Student centre, which is a place built on student levies, culture, and religion, a public space or a student space? is there even a difference between the two?

community members are wel-come, but sleeping over just might be overextending their invitations.

With the space that we have here from classrooms, labs, clubs, and colleges, id argue that the

student body is getting creative with how they use this space. From rumours of casual sex going on in bathrooms, which honestly is ethically challenging to report on, to students passed out on several chairs at Scott li-brary, it doesnt exactly seem like students are using their space that they pay for correctly.

and yet, we want more. We are getting a second Student centre, more elaborate than the current one. can we just go ahead and em-brace that we want space to sleep in? i vote for couches that are more comfortable than the ones cur-rently in the Student centre that have additional lower back support and include memory foam pillows, since down feathers is just cruel.

illustration by christopher lai

excalibur

RYAN MOOREnews editor

Ottawaits Saturday morning on Welling-ton Street and a large advertisement is staring me down from the bus shelter. Ive seen the ad before, but it looks more appealing now that the slogan is covered with a black per-manent marker and the model has somehow grown a mustache of the same colour. Its the same adver-tisement a major Ottawa newspa-per has for frontpage, omitting the news entirely.

A woman poses in front of Par-liament, wearing the latest winter garments, smiling as though she has found her lifes calling. With the Rideau Centre logo conve-niently placed in the bottom right corner, the headline reads, Winter sale, its here. If this isnt saying something about our values, I dont know what is. When did bus shelter advertisements become our frontpage news?

When evaluating the dedication people put into their consumer ap-petites rather than being engaged citizens, it can be di cult not to become completely apathetic, or even give up on the human race and retreat into the comfort-ing realm of misanthropy.

Yet isnt this apathy responsible for driv-ing us into the arms of consumer comforts we know best? When gazing upon the herds of consum-ers, chaotically scurrying from one fi x to the next, a person can see how the Western

sell to an audience, through un-derstanding the audience, meticu-lously described in Naomi Kleins No Logo, in which the youth

market becomes the object of obsession of multination-

al fi rms eager to reap the rewards of the marketing of cool.

As the success of branding superstars...had shown, wrote Klein, it was not going to be su cient for companies simply to market their same products to a young

demographic. They needed to fashion brand identities that would resonate with this new culture.

Culture jamming has become one of the most important trends in the last decade, but it is not a new idea by any means. During the 1930s, 1950s, and 1970s, there was an insurgence of touch-up artists. People had become con-cerned with the subliminal mes-sages that advertisements were sending and began to take matters into their own hands, doctoring ads, logos, and even paint rolling over entire billboards.

There has never been any real platform for people to respond to the marketers of the world who have made tril-

features6 features october 28, 2015

Our individuality is now targeted in the

form of psychographics, and empathy is used to

determine how to best sell to an audience.

by an army of marketers. We have to reclaim our country from those who occupy it on behalf of their global masters.

Ursula Franklin, Professor Emeritus, University of Toronto

world has lost the empa-thy needed to truly make a

diff erenceanywhere.When considering the thou-

sands of marketing messages an average Canadian receives daily, how is it not reasonable to consider a need to create dialogue be-tween citizens and marketers?

Designer Christian Lacroix once said to Vogue, Its terrible to say, very often the most exciting outfi ts are from the poorest people, expressing the reality of mainstream culture which often, if not mostly, or infi nitely ignores the vast injustices which occur as a result of Western consumption.

There is no way to consume ethically in the absolute sense. However, the eff orts of marketers, the power of the multination-als, and the idiocy of the masses has led to a deepening cost to humanity. Even as a fourth-year undergraduate, I have yet to attend a class in which all students can show a minescule of dissent toward the pernicious infl uence of celebrity culture.

In 1934, ex-adman James Rorty said, A democratic system of edu-cation...is one of the surest ways of creating and greatly extending markets for goods of all kinds and especially those goods in which fashion may play a part, showing the early inception of marketing eff orts into public life have not only been well-thought out, but planned in such a way that stu-dents remain largely oblivious.

Nevertheless, our individuality is now targeted in the form of psy-chographics (attitudes, beliefs, opinions), and empathy is used to determine how to best

lions from invading our space. Since most citizens cannot buy their own advertise-ments to counter these commer-cial messages, citizens believe they should have the right to create dialogue with the ads which were never invited to begin with, let alone sit down for a cup of Joe.

Kalle Lasn uses Jiu-Jitsu as a metaphor to explain the dynam-ics of a culture jam. Just as the Jiu-Jitsu artist uses his stronger opponents momentum against them, the citizen artist is also able to fl ip the corporate giant onto its back with one precise technique.

Through utilizing the enemys power structure, their supe-rior strength becomes their own downfall. Its the ability to use marketing in reverse that will allow the citizen to create some sort of dialogue between them and the corporations that have been invading their minds since infancy.

I picture the reality in which we live in terms of military occupation. We are occupied in the way the French and Norwegian were occupied by the Nazis during World War II, but this time

consumerism

Vanity, hypocrisy, and the end of ethical consumption

Refl ecting on the ways fashion consumerism distracts from real issues

Check our our Fashion Supplement and fall favourites online at excal.on.ca

Its terrible to say, very often the exciting

outfi ts are from the poorest people

Christian Lacroix, designer

graphics courtesy of wikimedia commons

COLOUR PAGE

excalibur excalibur

STEPHANIE SMITH

Managed by Elite Toronto, Stephanie Smith won the best model award. Hailing from

Waterloo, Smith was named one of the top models to look out for in 2015. During WMCFW, she walked the runway for Mackage, RUDSAK, and Mikhael Kale among others. Although absent to

accept her award, she recorded an acceptance speech in which the 16 year old thanked her parents, designers, and cats. See, shes just like any other teenager, except she has already walked the runways of Paris and New York.

best modelLUCIAN MATIS

Acclaimed Canadian designer Lucian Matis was born in Romania, learning fashion at his mothers tailor shop. Having immigrated to Canada in 1999, he joined Ryerson Universitys fashion design program and his success grew from there, having launched his fi rst collection in 2007. Matis is what you would consider a Canadian household name. Hes appeared on numerous television shows, including Canadas Next Top Model, and has expanded his MATIS by Lucian Matis collection to include home dcor. His SS 2016 collection is of ready-to-wear dresses, most of which were semi-formal, fl oor-length gowns. Floral prints and vivid purples were contrasted with some black and white and navy short dresses. Although unlikely colours to show up on a spring-summer

collection, the darker colours were detailed with lace

cutouts and fl irty cuts that bounced with each

models step.

best collection

GOLNAZ ASHTIANI

Rooted in Toronto, Golnaz Ashtiani trained at the London College of Fashion and created her own label in 2011. Her modern and clean cut style in womens

fashion is described as playful, with the urban cool girl in mind. Her

SS 2016 for women is soft, feminine pastel colours, off-shoulder long sweeping

shirts, and overcoats. The long sweeping cuts draped carefully over models, but had a defi nitive, symmetrical, block essence to it. The pastels were draped over shimmery body suits, a look that defi nes Ashtianis urban style, but one we cant guarantee to see walking the streets of Toronto.

best emerging designer

8 world mastercard fashion week october 28, 2015 october 28, 2015 world mastercard fashion week 9

Fashionistas, enthusiasts, and nonchalant fans of fashion, you may have heard the World MasterCard Fashion Week took place in Toronto October

19 to 23, showcasing the spring and summer trends of 2016. To the apathetic, this may seem out of place as we are just transitioning to fall, and evidently winter with recent temperatures. But as fashions cycle, we always have to plan ahead and stay ahead of the curve, and weather.

To conclude the week, Fashion magazine hosted their Toronto Fashion Week Awards, honouring the best of the best in several categories, as judged by a panel of Fashion editors. Stuffed into a crowded room at the Design Exchange, guests including designers, makeup artists, hair stylists, bloggers, and models were present.

And so was Excalibur. Like any true fashion award show, all

in attendance were dressed to impress. From white fur coats, to sparkles and bright colours, outfi ts were well put together. Tuxedos, bowties, and swanky shoes fi lled the room, and a red carpet enticed these fashion-forward thinkers to strike a pose. The environment prompted some outfi ts worth a double take, including Toronto blogger sisters Cailli and Sam Beckerman rocking Moschino and a gentleman wearing PJ fl annels as the bottoms to his blazer. The best part was they all rocked it.

The awards, as selected by the editorial staff of Fashion and Mens Fashion magazines, were honouring nine categories related to fashion, including a Peoples Choice Award for Best Show that is yet to be determined by vote. Editor-in-chief of Fashion magazine, Bernadette Morra was the MC for the evening, presenting the categories and winners to an apathetic audience that would not stop chattering.

Fashion Week

From Head to Toe,

the Winners of

best makeup best menswear

MACKAGE

Recipient of two awards, the Mackage line was created by friends Eran Elfassy and Elisa Dahan. Focusing on outerwear, the brands signature look is chic silhouettes. As a Canadian brand, they embody their home and native lands frigid weather and help realize the dream of fashionable and practical pieces. Their belief that the outerwear becomes the outfi t itself is refl ected in their fashion show, as the outfi ts underneath the coats and jackets are of simple white colours as to not distract from the main event. As winner of

best menswear, Mackage included everything from varsity and leather jackets to trench coats. The cuts were down to perfection, fi tting the models to a tee and adding layers without volume. Male models often wore sunglasses, almost like a mask to put focus on the outerwear, but the females wore identical makeup that struck the audience. Dark eyebrows with maroon lips won the award for best makeup.

MIKHAEL KALE

Canadian-born Mikhael Kale is known for his attention to detail and hand-detailed work. Having introduced his label in 2007, Kale is a regular at fashion shows. This year however, his show won the award for best hair, with rightful dibs on that title. His SS 2016 line is womens dresses and ensembles that embody fl oral prints, a common theme between many designers this year. But the fl owers and cropped cuts werent the only thing on peoples watchlist, as the hair stole the show. All models had their hair slicked back and painted with thick, glossy red colouring that looked like the models ran out of the chair before the dye settled in. Kales line is meant to embrace womens frailty and strength through his straight cuts, and perhaps the hair is a refl ection of the duality of womens fashion.

best hairNO. 99 WAYNE GRETZKY

The Sears exclusive collection, handpicked by Wayne Gretzky himself was the most anticipated collection in menswear this week. Setting themselves as luxurious yet accessible, there are no blends in this collection. One hundred per cent cotton fabrics took shape in collared T-shirts, shorts, and lightweight knits. The attention to small detail deserves some respect, as every outfi t was

paired with the right pair of dressed-up sneakers, belts looped in the exact method on each model, and layers tied in a consistent manner. Hues of blue and stark whites dominated this

show, which sometimes looked more like a Sears catalogue

rather than a high-end fashion show. Menswear is highly underrepresented at fashion

shows, so it is nice that No. 99 Wayne Gretzky got some honourable mentions.

best styling

Fashion magazines panel sizes up the competition of Torontos only Fashion Week

CLARA YAZEK CONTRIBUTORVICTORIA GOLDBERG ARTS EDITOR

Torontos streets are an indication of the intense fashion following that we have. However, our fashion week is just that, weak. The biggest names to walk the runway this year were RUDSAK and Access, with other lesser known

designers following. That is not to say that their designs and styling are not impressive. Mackage was a defi nitive crowd favour, refl ecting Canadian values and styles, while the Gretzky collection felt more like a sponsorship

than a win. Toronto needs to continue to endorse our young fashion designers, expanding educational opportunities, visibility, and accessibility. In a commercial world of imported brands, Canada has yet to fi nd its distinct style.

Illustrations by Victoria Goldberg, Christopher Lai, Tess Eneli Reid

excalibur

arts10 arts october 28, 2015

fashion

Making sure you can fit all that in dem jeansYou got to know when you hold em, know when to fold em, picking and choosing your next pair of denim

Diana EDElhausErcontributor

We live in them, we work in them, we ex-plore in them. Denim jeans have been with us since as long as we can remem-ber, and came to North America from France. In the late 1700s, the Andr family from Nmes, France tried to imitate Italian corduroy. In doing so, the Andrs created a strong twill fabric that they called serge. Serge de Nmes quickly became shortened to denim, and the rest is literally history.

The 1848 California Gold Rush meant miners needed durable clothing that would hold its own against water and wind, and denim was just right for the job. It soon became the work uniform of Americans and reached pop culture via cowboys. By the 1950s, denim jeans were seen on James Dean, Marlon Brando, and Marilyn Monroe and they havent left the scene since.

But high-quality jeans stopped being made in America at around that same time. Blame capital-ism, blame globalization, blame whatever you will. Denim-makers quickly ditched traditional looms once they noticed how few pieces get made at a time. American fac-tories also decided to prewash the fabric and use synthetic dye, for the sake of efficiency. The result? Thinner, weaker, and less impres-sive jeans. Since the 1980s, Japan

Weight of fabric

If youre able to pick up a denim jacket off of the hanger and throw it over your shoulder as easily as you would a handkerchief, chances are, it isnt going to last you very long. According to denim expert Catherine Jacobs, jeans weighing less than 12 ounces are considered low quality by the industry.

Similarly, anything described as lighter than medium weight is a red flag in terms of durability.

Heavier denim will have noticeable structure the first few times it is worn, but your body shape will break it in and make it conform to your natural curves, leaving you with a garment that fits you like a glove. Current/Elliot are an excellent source for sturdy denim, and they make sure you know about it in their marketing, with an average price tag of $240.

Stitching

Look for double stitching around the hem, sides, and pockets. This will look like two rows of stitches parallel to each other throughout. 7 for All Mankind, with an average price of $210, chooses to do single stitching, which is fine as they use a heavy thread that will not give in to the wear and tear of everyday use. This is probably the easiest test to do in store when shopping for denim: stretch the garment at the seams and listen. If you can hear the threads pulling apart, or worse, if you see some stitching loosen up on the spot, put it down and look for an-other pair. A common area for cheap stitching is the belt loops. We speak from experience, as these belt loops can come apart at the slightest tug. Check the fabrics, as unintentional rips and holes are not a fashion state-ment, but a financial statement.

StretchineSS

If you dont already check the garment tags on your clothing, its a very helpful habit to get into. When it comes to the stretch factor in denim, Jacobs advises the maximum amount of lycra you want is two per cent, although one per cent will be enough for comfortable wear. Exceeding that will result in garments, especially jeans, that get saggy and baggy and will never regain the fit you loved and purchased them for.

has been the premium denim market of the world. Japan bought up the traditional American looms as well as real indigo dye, and reinvigorated the meaning of top notch denim.

Selvage denim, sometimes anglicized to selvedge, is the holy grail of denim. These are jeans with a rich dark blue, irregular stitching, and are hand-sewn with well-finished clean edges. You can find a classic pair of selvage jeans at Nudie Jeans Co for about $285, or at Levis under the selvedge collection anywhere from $130 to $350. Most of us, however, arent ready to part with a whole pay-check for one pair of pants, even if they will outlive us, our kids, and grandkids. Are selvage jeans the only ones thatll do the trick and check off the quality box? Maybe not. There are some factors which you can consider when purchasing lower-priced jeans.

Here are some things to look for when shopping for superior denim:

For more tips on how to take care of

your denim, visit our website at

excal.on.ca/fashion

photos by victoria goldberg

menswear

strutting your stuff down Yorks campusFellas on campus showcase their fashion tastes

DaviD huYnhcontributor

Fashion is universal, and Yorks Keele campus is a runway for gals and guys alike. Meet two trendsetting guys that might be sitting next to you in class.

raShad azamfourth-year history major

Define your style: I like to look clean. I have to put some effort into it. I dont like it when you can see that someone didnt put in any effort, especially when meeting someone who is important or of relevance.

Number one must have: Blazer. You can dress it up and just one blazer can make you look a hun-dred times better.

araSon navaranjan, first-year film major

Define your style: I find my style to be more free flowing and creative. It tends to change quite drastically depending on my influ-ence, which can come from TV, film, magazines, or people walking down the street.

Number one must have: T-shirt. Its very basic, but it can also be expressive and creative, depending on the colour or print. Its a basic foundation.

photos by victoria goldberg

fashion

The revolution will be worn, not televisedPlus-size fashion is taking a turn in the modern world, either for the better or worse

Assa Cisse, plus-size fashion blogger of My Curves and Curls utilizes colour and accessories to her advantage.

photo courtesy of assa cisse

october 28, 2015 arts 11

Melissa Gonikcontributor

Have you ever attempted to try on a shirt, only to realize that youll need a chainsaw to cut you out of it?

While nearly everyone has had a meltdown in the four-by-four box some stores call a change room, there are some people who have a much harder time than others. For years, plus-size individuals have struggled time and time again to enjoy one of our nations most popular hobbies: shopping. It was often impos-sible for plus-size girls to go on a shopping spree with their petite friends, as the stores that sold clothes for both petite and plus sizes rarely coincided. This is all starting to change with what looks to be a plus-size revolution.

The term plus-size actually has pretty dull origins. The earliest record of the term is from a 1958 commercial standards report, which is essentially a regulation sheet for clothing sizing. Ironi-cally enough, this regulation sheet has become more lenient, thus resulting in varied sizing between stores. It has morphed into a term that describes specific stores, while also degrading people of larger size. The term plus in-sinuates extra, as though people who buy these sizes are carry-ing something extra with them. Their weight is deemed excessive,

unnecessary, and ultimately, un-wanted. Retailers and media alike perpetuate this notion through normalizing petite models that fit to a specific size.

Though sometimes derogatory, plus-size as a concept should be seen as a form of inclusion for women and men who cannot fit into the smaller sizes most commonly of-fered by mainstream stores.

Since its rather bland origins, plus-size fashion has gained im-mense traction in the fashion world in the last few years. The average size for women in the United States is 12-14, however brands drastically differ in sizing. Plus-size stores, including Torrid, Addition Elle, and Penningtons cater specifically to bodies that do not fit the norm, offering a beauti-ful selection of clothing in only larger sizes, often 12 and up. The styles reflect current trends offered in typical fast fashion stores, but appeal to a niche market, where they sell clothes that fit the major-ity of their shoppers.

Addition Elles mission state-ment, which can be found on their website, states: Addition Elle champions a fashion democ-racy, where style isn't limited by size. We promise to deliver modern, fashionable clothes; in an inspiring, world-class shop-ping experience in-store and online; to make the woman who wears our clothes feel confident, beautiful, and included in the fashion world.

Their sites dont boast the fact that they sell plus-sizes. Rather, they sell clothing, and women who like it can purchase it with-out the stigma of the term plus.

In recent years, plus-size fash-ion has also gotten increasingly popular in more mainstream clothing stores. H&M, Old Navy, and Forever 21 are all notable in the amount of plus-size clothing they added to their collections. They dont have every style in a larger size, instead choosing different patterns and prints in exclusively larger sizes in a specific plus-size section. While their fast fashion trends may seem appealing, their exclusion and pronounced separation of regular and plus is highly discouraging.

There are numerous plus-size bloggers who make it their duty to show others the styles and colours that work best for differ-ent body types. Toronto-based blogger Assa Cisse, writer of My Curves and Curls, regularly posts her take on the fashion trends of the season. Recently, she explored 25 plus-size skirts for the fall, advising that a knit

pencil skirt is the best way to go for a stylish look that also keeps you warm. Instead of abiding by traditional plus-size fashion rules, like only maxis for plus-size, Cisse, like many bloggers in her field, encourages experimen-tation and creativity.

Unfortunately, we lack variety in [Canadian plus-size stores]. The United States has more, but you can definitely find great fashionable items here as well, said Cisse on her blog, before mentioning a handful of stores, even including Value Village as her thrift shop favourite.

Fast fashion stores with plus-size collections have gotten into controversy recently, as compiled by BuzzFeed, customers discov-ered that Old Navy was charg-ing more for womens plus-size clothing but was not charging more for the mens equivalent, despite both styles using the same amount of fabric. Gap, which owns Old Navy, issued a statement saying that womens fabrics cost more which is why the clothing is more expensive. Either way, Old Navy is charging more for women who have less

options than their smaller coun-terparts, and the company is taking advantage of them. There is much less fabric in a size two shirt than a size 10, but these are almost always the same price.

However there is a larger problem than Old Navy charg-ing more for a pair of pants. The term plus-size has been dropped in this article sev-eral times, suggesting there is a clear distinction between normal and plus, regular and large.

What is important to remember is that all women deserve to have access to clothes that make them feel beautiful and shouldnt feel bad for buying clothes that work for their body. We live in a culture that is obsessed with appear-ances and sizes. It is important to remember, no two people are created the same. Your pant size is not a reflection of your character, your mind, or your inner beauty. In fashion, there is one rule: wear what makes you feel confident. As long as it fits you and your person-ality, you can forget the label and size. In real life, there is no normal.

costumes

Halloween costumes in a jiffyLast minute DIY costume inspiration, in case you forgot

liana sHawcontributor

its that spooky time of the year again where everyone attempts to find that perfect costume. As the poor university student ste-reotype implies, some of us might tentatively be thinking about the upcoming Halloweek, and the lack of money we are willing to spend on an extravagant costume.

If youre thinking about taping a piece of paper that says crippling debt to your shirt for the night, lets be real, thats what were really all scared of, never fear, Excalibur has put together easy to create DIY Halloween costume ideas that are sure to be a treat.

Snapchat Filter

For the casual makeup artists out there, you might want to take on something a bit more cre-ative. To recreate the much loved rainbow-puking Snapchat filter, use some rainbow streaks of face paint from your mouth down to your neck and embellish it with some sparkles for extra effect.

netFlix and chill

This social media phenomenon has caught on worldwide so why not impress everyone with your original wit by simply wearing a red York hoodie, taping a piece of paper with the Netflix logo over the front design, and carrying around a miniature fan. If you dont have a fan, you could always carry around a bag of ice. Or ask the air-condition deprived people living in Winters. Theres bound to be some leftover ice from Septem-ber.

dancing twinS emoji

Flaunt your knowledge of online culture yet again by dressing up as these tiny bundles of joy. With just a black leotard and a Mickey Mouse headband, all thats left to do is spend the rest of your night stick-ing your left leg slightly to the side. Extra points should definitely be awarded to anyone who can wear the leotard out in the cold all night.

U oF t StUdent

If you have friends who go to U of T, youre in luck. Just borrow one of their hoodies and reprise one of the traditional York chants featured at Frosh. One that is highly recom-mended is U of T - teaches me - where I learn my A-C-Bs.

Beanie BaByMainly aimed at the privileged

few who own animal onesies. If youre looking for an excuse to buy one, then this might be it. All you have to do once you have it is to cut out a heart-shaped piece of red paper, and write a white ty on it. Put it on a lanyard around your neck and prepare for the hugs and cuddles.

miranda SingSAnother pop-culture icon blessed

on us from the United States, Miranda Sings is a YouTube sensa-tion that gives a perfect solution to any makeup amateurs woes during Halloween. All you need is a bit of smudged red lipstick and the ability to make her signature crazy-eyes. Optionally, make yourself a bit more recognizable by adding some hair clips above each ear or a tiara stolen from a younger sibling.

Mean GirlsAlthough overdone, isnt it

still timeless? The answer is yes, the sarcasm makes up for it. All you need is a pair of sunglasses, a hoodie with the strings pulled tight around your face, and a sign that says she doesnt even go here.

images courtesy of cosy pajamas, ty image courtesy of paramount picturesimage courtesy of wikimedia commons

images courtesy of wikimedia commons

excalibur14 october 28, 2015

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