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PEOPLE ARE TALKING ABOUT...BRANDS THAT ARE GIVING ANCIENT CRAFT A MODERN MEANING. BY SARAH DITTY

INSPIRED IDEA: “My travels across India spiked my desire to utilise fashion as a vehicle for change. My goal was to create a fashion label that celebrates the artisan, but with directional silhouettes that are relevant to today’s society.”

MODERN CRAFT: “The handloom industry employs some 20 million people compared to the 3 million working in IT. It’s easy to see why India is the global leader—the skills and creativity here are unmatched.”

GIRL POWER: “At the core of our Lucknow workshop is the empowerment of women in India, with an all-female management team.”

STYLE MUSE: “The Carlie Ballard woman is a dreamer, a make-believer, an adventurer forging her own path. Her style is sophisticated yet eclectic and rich in visual stories. She’s captivating, timeless and enviable.” Carlieballard.com

Change agent CARLIE BALLARD

Dreamer and world traveller Carlie

Ballard has a deep passion for the human

touch behind fashion. Meet the woman

fusing India’s traditional handloom fabrics

with contemporary style and ethics.

Bridging boundaries ABURY “I was living in Marrakech, renovating a riad with traditional crafts, when I fell in love with their hand-embroidered Berber bags,” recalls Andrea Kolb, founder of Abury. “I took one of the bags back to Germany with me and all my friends loved it. After two weeks, I made some on order, and this was the start of my idea to preserve crafts and inspire change through design.”

‘Diamonds in the Sky’ cotton

blouse, ‘Traveller’ ikat trousers, ‘Just

in Case’ linen scarf; all

Carlie Ballard

‘Destination’ ikat jumpsuit, Carlie Ballard

‘Omari Berber’ leather bag,

Abury

184 VOGUE INDIA SEPTEMBER 2015 www.vogue.in

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Abury doesn’t have one designer. Instead, the brand brings together exciting designers from all over the world with traditional craftspeople in Morocco and Ecuador to exchange ideas, new and old, across cultures.

The label o� ers a mix of knits and accessories, from modernised Berber bags and ornate straw clutches to sleek leather travel bags and chic chunky knitwear for colder climates.

In Morocco, the designers experiment with new colour combinations, embroidery patterns and bag shapes, but each one is still made the traditional handmade way. Last year, Abury also began working in Ecuador on a knitwear collection.

Kolb believes that “the world would be a better place if everyone had fewer things that they treasured rather than masses of things made with inferior quality and little emotional value.” Abury.net

with new colour combinations, embroidery patterns and bag shapes, but each one is still made the traditional handmade way. Last year, Abury also began working in Ecuador

Kolb believes that “the

‘Freepeople Marrakech’

leather backpack, Abury

‘Nagbeshar’ earrings,

Kaligarh

How did the idea come about?Six years ago it was my dream to create

powerful fashion with ethical values, all the while promoting Vietnam, where my parents are from.

What’s your design inspiration?I mix multicultural infl uences from

Europe and Asia, combining traditional textiles with modern cuts.

I focus on craftsmanship and details, striving to be both ecological and current.

What’s the story behind the new collection?‘Shoot at the Moon’ is an Asian tale about the birth of the moon in ancient times. When the moon fi rst appeared, it burned everything. To save the world, an archer and his weaver wife shot arrows of silk at the moon to extinguish its

fi re. That’s why the colour palette is a mix of dark blue, black, grey and silver.

What’s your favourite piece?There’s a biker jacket that’s made of lacquered silk, dyed using a traditional Asian technique that utilises ebony fruits. It looks glossy like leather but is light as a feather.

Why is working with artisan communities so important?We are very proud to work with a weaving cooperative that supports ethnic communities in remote areas of Vietnam. Our orders empower talented women with unique skills, giving them an extra source of revenue at home. I believe that handcrafting and care for quality and sustainability will defi ne the future of luxury fashion. Lindamaiphung.com; Yoox.com

“Just walking around the crazy city that is Kathmandu, you realise

how important these crafts are to Himalayan art, to our history, to our identity,” Jyoti Upadhyay says.

Kaligarh’s earrings, rings, necklaces, cu� s and brooches combine hammered-e� ect metals with turquoise, coral and lapis lazuli stones and ancestral motifs.

“Kaligarh brings together so many of my interests—design, craftsmanship, photography, travel, research and, of course, ethical business,” explains Upadhyay.

The earthquake in April destroyed much of Nepal’s economy and crumbled many ancient monuments, and Upadhyay is dedicated to preserving what remains.

“Our focus is on supporting our team to rebuild. We’re also working on recreating and reinterpreting jewellery found on stone statues in the Kathmandu valley.” ■Kaligarh.com; Indelust.com

Home turf KALIGARHOf Nepali and North East Indian heritage, founder Jyoti Upadhyay was

raised on the windy coast of Wales.

Her brand Kaligarh (meaning ‘artisan’

in Nepalese) takes inspiration from the Himalayan region.

Culture shift

LINDA MAI PHUNG

“Each piece of cloth tells the story of my

travels,” says the founder of this eponymous

eco-fashion label. Here are fi ve questions

with the Vietnam-based French designer.

‘Dusk’ jacquard cotton, cotton canvas and leather backpack,

Linda Mai Phung

‘Raiya’ brass cu� , Kaligarh

‘Hansuli’ necklace, Kaligarh

‘Dawn’ jacquard cotton and

leather pouch, Linda Mai

Phung

‘Mountain’ silk shirt dress

‘Moonlight’ cotton and silk baseball jacket,

‘Archer’ cotton trousers; all Linda Mai Phung

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA SEPTEMBER 2015 185