via nov/dec 2011

AAA TRAVELER’S COMPANION INOVEMBER+DECEMBER 2011AAA.COM/VIA

P L U S San Francisco’s heaven on a hill 27 Pack your trunk for safety 10 Monterey food fest 46 Photo contest—enter now! 8 Nevada’s Mizpah Hotel 24

Springs Sacramento trains Amazing zoos Salt Lake City

Palm30

38

20

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C1caND11_Cover.indd 1C1caND11_Cover.indd 1 9/26/11 1:17 PM9/26/11 1:17 PM

Insurance companies We see an opportunity

Get an auto quote today and receive a FREE emergency light for your added protection.**

Get an auto quote

AAA has been coming to the rescue for over 100 years, so our approach to auto insurance is based on more than just filing paperwork. No wonder J.D. Power and Associates ranks AAA higher than Allstate, State Farm and Farmers for claims satisfaction.* And why our insurance agents are just as committed to you as our famous tow truck drivers are.

855-706-9492 | AAA.com/autoquote | Visit your local branch

C2caND11_AutoInsuranceLHP.indd 1 9/23/11 3:18 PM

see a claim. to help.

*Ranking based on 2010 J.D. Pow

er Auto C

laims Satisfaction Study. A

AA

Northern C

alifornia, Nevada &

Utah, a A

AA

Mem

ber. **Valid at AA

A branches in N

orthern California, N

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tah. Offer good until 11/30/2011 or w

hile supplies last. M

ay not be combined w

ith any other offer. Only one offer per household, som

e restrictions apply. Quotes for existing A

AA

policies do not qualify. © 2011 A

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01caND11_AutoInsuranceRHP.indd 2 9/21/11 8:54 AM

Call 1-800-956-7721 or visit TracFoneoffers.comLimited time offer - while supplies last. Available only via AAA member program.

7721 or visit Limited time offer - while supplies last.

Call 1-800-956-

T301G

Special AAA Bundle Offer** - $49.99Get one year of Worry-free Wireless with this Great Bundle ($199.99 value)

ONE YEAR OF SERVICE PLUS 200 MINUTES

TRACFONE SAMSUNG T301G SLIDER PHONE

FREE SKINIT®

$14.99 value-customize your phone to your liking

CARRYING CASE

HANDS-FREE HEADSET

CAR CHARGER

UNLIMITEDDOUBLE

MINUTESFOR THE LIFE

OF THIS PHONE

INCLUDES

Save $150 with this ExclusiveAAA Member Offer

• Nationwide Coverage on America's Best Networks• Lowest out of pocket cost for phone and service• Call Nationally, Internationally* or Roam at Local Call Rates

INCLUDES

®

*Rates apply only to certain destinations. For a complete list of available destinations visit TracFone.com/ild.**Offer good for new activations only. Offer/Model not available in all areas. No substitutions, this bundle offer of the TracFone Samsung T301G plus one year of service and 200 Minutes, car charger, carrying case, hands-free headset and Skinit® is an exclusive offer to new AAA TracFone® customers only. One year of service plus 200 minutes is issued upon activation and the 200 minutes will not double. Special AAA Bundle Offer only available at TracFoneoffers.com or by calling 1-800-956-7721. AAA promotional offers are not valid on TracFone phones purchased at retail. ©2011 TracFone Wireless, Inc. All rights reserved. The stylized spiral logo and TracFone® are registered trademarks of TracFone Wireless, Inc. All other trademarks, service marks, and trade names referenced are the property of their respective owners.

®

02caND11Affinity.indd 1 9/21/11 8:50 AM

AAA I VIA 3

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AAA I VIA 3

FEATURES

30 Palm Springs Eternal

Southern California’s glam oasis scares winter away with cocktails by the pool and an occasional art or fi lm festival. by deborah franklin

34 Utah’s Bohemian Rhapsody

Rebellious breweries, edgy theater, and alternative art make Salt Lake City crackle.by nino padova

38 Trains That Won the WestPower, romance, and steel wheels? You and the kids will breathe wow. by bruce newman

C O V E R P H O T O G R A P H B Y C H R I S M I L L E R / I M A G I N E I M A G E R Y

insi

de

IN EVERY ISSUE

46 Events

48 Online

IN THIS ISSUE

8 Photo Contest

DEPARTMENTS

6 President’s PageLet’s stop talking trash and start talking about the easiest everyday way to help the earth.

10 Your AAAFive tools you should keep in your trunk; the truth about car alarms; maps that show you more; roadside help on a Harley.

18 On the RoadA stairway to heaven; favorite zoos and animal parks; poinsettia power; Nevada’s Grand Old Lady.

27 WeekenderIn San Francisco’s Bernal Heights, independent restaurants and shops meet knockout city views.

NovemberDecember

2011VOLUME

132NO.

6

ON THE COVER, The San Jacinto

Mountains shelter Palm Springs,

Calif. Page 30. ABOVE, big fun

at the California State Railroad

Museum. Page 38.

03caND11_TOC.indd 303caND11_TOC.indd 3 9/26/11 12:54 PM9/26/11 12:54 PM

4 NOVEMBER+DECEMBER 2011 I AAA.COM/VIA

EDITORIAL

EDITOR Anne McSilverEXECUTIVE EDITOR John PoppyMANAGING EDITOR Karen ZuercherSENIOR EDITORS Leslie Endicott (AAA.com/via), Sheridan WarrickCONTRIBUTING EDITORS Eric Smillie, Jason TurbowEVENTS EDITOR Katie Cornell, [email protected] INTERNS Juliana Appenrodt, Kristen Haney

DESIGN+PRODUCTION

DESIGN DIRECTOR Alan AveryPRODUCTION DIRECTOR Kristen WilsonASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Monica EwingART+PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Mira RoytmanPRODUCTION SPECIALIST William LyonsPHOTO EDITOR Maggie Perkins

ADVERTISING

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Ted WelchACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Carol Epstein, Linda WebberADVERTISING COORDINATOR Natasha AlcaláADVERTISING ACCOUNTING William Nocera

2,725,691 COPIES Subscription rate: AAA primary members, $2 (included in dues). Change of address: Allow four weeks’ advance notice. Contact AAA at (800) 922-8228. Manuscripts and photos: Query first; VIA assumes no responsibility for return of unsolic ited material. Reprinting from VIA: Contents copyrighted 2011 by AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah. No part of VIA may be reprinted without written permission. Contacting VIA: Address all mail to VIA, AAA, P.O. Box 24502, Oakland, CA 94623. Email: [email protected]. Contacting VIA Advertising: Address all mail to VIA Advertising, AAA, P.O. Box 24502, Oakland, CA 94623. Fax (877) 406-0222.

NAPAOnline.com 1800-LET-NAPA*Some exclusions apply. Offer expires 12/31/11

KNOW HOW to save this holiday season with NAPA. Stop into any participating NAPA AUTO PARTS Store and get an exclusive, AAA members-only discount on select products. So bring your AAA card to NAPA and save 10% all year long.* Not a member? To join AAA call 866.222.9414 or visit www.AAA.com.

ENJOY

AAA PRICEAAA PRICE

Solar Brand 110 voltPower Inverter

Shop-Vac Brand 6.5HPHeavy Duty Vacuum Cleaner

t h e w o r l d ’ s o n ly a q u a r i u m - p l a n e ta r i u m - r a i n f o r e s t - l i v i n g m u s e u m

I’m dreaming of a white‘Tis the Season for Science returns to the California Academy of Sciences November 23 –January 16, 2012Located in Golden Gate Park, San Francisco calacademy.org

Save 20% on ticketsPresent this coupon at the Academy ticket window and save 20% off general admission, NightLife, NightLife VIP, Children’s Tours & Behind-the-Scenes Tours. Valid for up to four (4) guests per coupon. Off er valid November 23–January 16, 2012. Not accepted at AAA NCNU district offi ces. Not valid on calacademy.org, Thanksgiving and Christmas day, and December 21, 2011. Tours subject to availability. Prices subject to change without notice.

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Find something for everyone on your list — you’ll save with hundreds of AAA Member discounts online and in-store.

DIRECTV: New Subscribers get a $10 credit on their monthly bill for 20 billing cycles when they purchase a 2-year agreement, in addition to the nationally advertised offer at the time of subscription. Call 800-370-3578 to establish service with this offer.

Gap Outlet: Save 10% discount on all purchases, including sale merchandise.

Target.com: Get a 10% discount on electronics, clothing, toys and more.

The UPS Store: Save up to 15% on shipping and packaging supplies.

Start shopping now: AAA.com/savenow

Shop, ship, save with your AAA Membership

Total savings based on purchases of $300 at Gap Outlet, $300 at Target.com, $100 at the UPS store, and a two-year DIRECTV agreement ($10 monthly nontransferable and nonrefundable bill—credit will be applied for 20 billing cycles. Conditions apply). You must provide your valid Membership number at time of purchase to receive your discount. Offers not valid with other discounts, promotions or coupons unless otherwise stated, and are subject to change and may expire without notice. Conditions and restrictions may apply to all offers. Valid at participating locations only. For details, visit AAA.com.

© 2011 AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah. All rights reserved. P1663-6

Sample holiday savings:

�

Total savings: $275

$200

$30

$30

$15

05caND11_SYCAS.indd 2 9/21/11 8:50 AM

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DRIVING IS A GREAT TIME to think about the environment—especially when you’re stuck in a jam on a highway lined with litter, and the radio is report-ing the latest instance of some extreme weather.

Alas, if you are like me, when it’s time to jump out of the car and rush to a meeting, it’s easy to toss extra paper in the nearest trash. What I try to remember is that one little piece of paper represents my simplest everyday opportunity to help the earth: recycling.

Many of you already take big steps to lighten your impact—bicycling or using public transit, compost-ing, choosing reusable products, investing in hybrid or all-electric cars, even adding solar panels to your homes. But small steps count too, and I’ve been thinking lately about all the occasions when a tiny amount of effort can change a careless throwaway into a careful ecological investment.

When it comes to your car, AAA can help with advice and resources:■ Engine oil Many folks change their own motor oil in cars, trucks, boats, RVs, and lawn mowers. Just two gallons of recycled oil can help a power plant keep your home humming with electricity for 24 hours. Contact your trash company or recycler for drop-off locations. Recycling also keeps used oil out of our drinking water, off beaches, and away from wildlife.

Good Directions

■ Car batteries Since 2001, the AAA Battery Roundup has redi-rected more than 8 million pounds of lead and 468,000 gallons of sul-furic acid to productive reuse. To fi nd out where to bring your used car battery for free recycling, visit AAA.com/batteryroundup.■ Tires Too many tires currently clog our landfi lls instead of gaining new life as highway paving, play-ground mats, or garden mulch. We can all lessen our tires’ mark on the earth by fi rst extending their usable life through good mainte-nance (checking pressure, rotating and balancing regularly). When it’s time to recycle tires, take them to a tire retailer (where you may have to pay a small fee) or local recycling facility.

So what else are you doing to help the earth? Email me at [email protected] and I’ll share your ideas online. Then when I’m caught in traffi c, I’ll remember to use the time productively, thinking about the environment and brainstorming new ways AAA can help protect the planet.

president’s pageeveryday green

paul gaffney, president & ceo

WAKE UP! Occasionally we drive when we’re sleepy. Bad idea. Of every eight fatal crashes, one involves a drowsy driver, according to the National Highway Traffi c Safety Administration. Sleepiness slows reac-tion times and impairs judgment; people who are very sleepy drive much like people who are drunk.

To prevent drowsiness:

■ Get at least six hours of sleep the night before a trip.■ Travel at times when you are normally awake.■ On long trips, stay overnight rather than driving between midnight and 6 a.m., the hours when drivers are especially likely to have sleep-related crashes.■ Schedule a break every two hours or every 100 miles.

If you begin to feel drowsy while driving:

■ Drink coffee or tea with caffeine.■ Get out of the car and exercise.■ Pull over and take a nap; 15 or 20 minutes of sleep can be enough to restore your alertness.

Drivers ages 16 to 24 have nearly three times more risk of sleep-related crashes than more mature drivers. Young drivers should be especially careful to:■ Make sleep—at least 8½ hours a night—a priority. ■ Never drive under the infl uence of drugs, alcohol, or sleepiness, or ride with anyone who is.

➤ For more strategies, visit AAA.com/drivingtips.

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Give every driver in your household the same AAA benefits you enjoy — for a lot less than the cost of regular Membership. Unlike other road service providers, AAA covers your loved ones in any car, even if they’re passengers in someone else’s car. And AAA Members don’t have to pay out of pocket for a tow,

or worry about whom to trust. It’s a difference that means if your teen, spouse or partner gets stranded, you’ll always be able to count on AAA to make things right. Share the nation’s best road service — add a family member to your AAA Membership today.

Membership benefits subject to the full Membership Terms and conditions. Visit AAA.com for details.© 2012 AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah. All rights reserved. P1156-4

AAA covers your loved ones — even if they’re in someone else’s car, whatever the situation.

No other road service protects your teen like AAA

Add a loved one to your Membership today.

Call (800) JOIN-AAA click AAA.com/protect or visit your local AAA branch.

– Ann & Alexa Estacio, AAA Members

07caND11_ERS.indd 2 9/21/11 10:06 AM


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Share a cool photo— you could win a prize!

Does your bumper tell people you’re a member of the club? Take a picture of the AAA sticker, upload your best shot at AAA.com/win by November 6,

and you’ll be entered to win a $700 digital cam era, a $500 AAA Travel gift certifi cate, or a $150 gas card.

We’re especially looking for photos that stand out from the ordinary, perhaps through an amusing angle, a scenic location, or something else entirely. Winners will be announced in the January/February issue of VIA.

Show your AAA spirit

You’ll fi nd full contest rules at AAA.com/win.

PHOTO CONTEST

Contest runs through November 6 and is open to members of AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah in good standing as of Contest start date. Odds of winning depend upon number of entries received. Void where prohibited.

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yourAAAmember news+tips+benefits

Five vital items you’ll want to pack, just in case . . .

Tools for your trunk

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AAA I VIA 11

Even with the phone number for AAA Emergency Road Service in your pocket, it’s smart to set yourself up to weather a low-level crisis, or at least to stay safe and comfortable

until help arrives. All it takes is some preparation and a little bit of trunk space. You have a jack, a lug wrench, and maybe a spare tire in there already. Here are some other essential emergency tools.

AAA Premium Warrior Road Kit You can fi nd more than 20 AAA-approved car emergency aids of varying sizes at numerous websites; this kit, packed with 77 items, is the most comprehensive. It includes jumper cables, a refl ec-tive warning triangle, a 250 psi air compressor to infl ate tires on the spot, and an abundance of other articles such as screwdrivers, pliers, and a 45-piece fi rst-aid kit. $62.95 at survival-supply.com.

Space blanket Compact and effi cient, this waterproof, windproof, shimmery Mylar sheet developed by NASA can help you stay warm, shield you from the sun, and serve as a ground cloth for picnics.

Folding shovel For digging out of sticky situations.

Food and water You hope you’ll never be stranded for long, but keep on hand a gallon or so of water and some packages of high-calorie foods with a long shelf life, such as energy bars or dried fruit.

American Red Cross Road Torq This superb multi-purpose light by Etón stands on three refl ective legs. Use its steady beam to inspect your car, or fl ip its head and have its fl ashing beacon stand sentry in the breakdown lane. One minute of easy cranking yields 15 minutes of

power for the lights. The Wall Street Journal called the Road Torq “cute, useful, and utterly dependable.”

➤ Here’s another way we can help In November,

come in to any AAA branch in

Northern California, Nevada, or

Utah for a quote on auto insur-

ance. We will give you a battery-

powered emergency glow stick

with fl ashlight, safety fl asher, and

whistle. And when you purchase

a policy in California or Nevada,

one of these versatile Road Torqs

will be yours. For more information about AAA insur-

ance, talk with an agent at one of our branches near

you, call (855) 706-9492, or visit AAA.com/autoquote.

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MYTH BUSTER

Myth: The Wednesday before Thanksgiving is the busiest travel day of the year.Reality: Counting those who drive 50 to 100 miles, more peo-ple travel on Thanksgiving Day and the following Saturday than on Wednesday, says the U.S. Department of Transportation.

YOUR TURN

What is the best innovation for travelers in the last 20 years?

❑ Housekeeping ❑ Fitness center❑ Minibar ❑ Swimming pool

➤ Email [email protected] with

your vote by November 11. We’ll reveal

the results in our next issue.

Next issue: Which hotel convenience do you most look forward to?

30%

Light roller luggage

41%

GPS for drivers

23%

Online booking

6%

Smartphones and tablets

➤ Learn more about staying safe on

the road at AAA.com/viasafety.


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yourAAA member news+tips+benefits

ROADSIDE ASSISTANTS

Service on two wheels

QA

Back in the 1920s, AAA main-tained a fl eet of motorcycles ready to render roadside help. Today, a hint of the past roars back on a Harley-Davidson when Glenn Sgarlato of Dick’s Automotive Transport in Campbell, Calif., responds to a call.

Where did the idea to use a bike come from?Dave Bailey, our regional manager, urged his shops to go green with new vehicles. We got the Harley in June ’09. It gets 40 to 45 miles per gallon and it lets us serve our members in places where traffi c comes to a standstill and no truck could get through.

Can you tow cars with it?No, but we throw a lot of equipment on it, including a small fl oor jack that can lift up to a ton and a half. I use the bike for fl ats, lockouts, dead batteries, and any other “can’t start” calls. It’s really neat rolling up and seeing the big smiles on people’s faces—and then having all the tools and equipment to get the job done.

Do the members you meet want rides?Some do, but the passenger seat is taken up by a very large jump-start pack that could even start a big rig. Everyone wants a picture, though, and I encourage that.

Do you ride motorcycles for fun, too?Yes, I have my own Harley at home. And we enjoy using the shop’s Harley for public service—highway patrol open houses, for example, and especially the AAA Christmas toy run.

QA

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WeatherTech.com800-441-6287

© 2011 by MacNeil IP LLC

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➤ AAA Emergency Road Service helps members 24 hours a day

with modern tools and old-fashioned service. Call (800) 222-4357.

Sidecar-equipped Harleys delivered “mechanical fi rst aid” in 1924.

10-16caND11_YAAA_CRX.indd 1210-16caND11_YAAA_CRX.indd 12 10/4/11 8:33 AM10/4/11 8:33 AM

EXPERIENCE THE WINE COUNTRY

Visit Folsom Broadway-style entertainment unfolds all year long at Three Stages. Receive a complimentary bottle of sparkling wine at check-in when you book a Bubbly & Broadway Package. Make Folsom hotels your home base for exploring El Do-rado and Amador wine country.

(800) 377-1414 www.visitfolsom.com

Rodney Strong Vineyards Invites you to taste Sonoma County flavor at our unique tasting room. Excite your other senses with our Wine Gallery Tour. Come learn about the different aspects of grape growing and winemaking while tasting world-class wines from the heart of Sonoma County.

(800) 678-4763 www.rodneystrong.com

Calaveras CountyThis is my wine country. Have your adventure and sip it too! Soak up the charm of a Calaveras getaway. Historic appeal. Trendy allure. Inspiring recreation. Fun! Call for your free Calaveras Activities Guide. Mention VIA, and we’ll send you a Calaveras VIP Discount Card!

(800) 225-3764www.GoCalaveras.com

Embassy Suites Napa Valley Enter into a world of relaxed sophistication. Our Mediter-ranean style hotel features 205 luxurious suites. Complimentary breakfast and beverage reception daily. Beautiful gardens, millpond with resident swans, indoor and outdoor pools, Spa Services, Grille 29 Restaurant.

1-800-EMBASSYnapavalley.embassysuites.com

Sonoma Wine CountryDo you speak Sonoma? Coasting: v. Strolling, surfing, and staying where the sand meets the sea, the vistas are endless and the experience a natural wonder. Speak a little Sonoma and you’ll feel like a local. Call or visit us on-line for a Free Visitors Guide and Map.

(800) 576-6662www.SonomaCounty.com

Monterey Wine Country Visit Monterey Wine Country on Saturday, November 12th for The Best of the Blue. The region’s wine event of the year is at the Del Monte Aviation Center, a private jet hangar, and features 45 wineries, gourmet food trucks, and a Try and Buy marketplace. (831) 375-9400 www.MontereyWines.org

Visit Tri-Valley, CA Five Cities, Three Valleys, One Unique Destination. Explore the authentic, afford-able Livermore Valley Wine Country, award-winning golf, restaurants, historic downtown shopping districts and Mount Diablo State Park.

(888) 874-9253www.visittrivalleyca.com

Sonoma Valley Just 45 miles north of San Francisco, the Sonoma Valley is a wine-growing appellation, a culinary capital, a historic treasure, a natural wonder—and a state of mind. Visit our web site for Real Deals and free visitor guides and maps.

(866) 996-1090www.sonomavalley.com

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TOP THREE

Common gaps in insurance coverage

“Loss of use” fees if you’re in a crash while driving a rental car.

Full replacement cost of your home. Some policies cover only what your house was worth at the time the policy was issued.

Earthquakes and fl oods. Even “all perils” home policies can exclude these disasters.

BIG QUESTION

Do car alarms actually deter theft?The quick answer: no. After surveying insurance claims for 73 million vehicles in 1997, the nonprofi t Highway Loss Data Institute found “no overall reduction in theft losses” for cars with traditional audible alarms.That’s because blaring alarms rarely indicate theft. So frequent are false alarms that people are conditioned to ignore them. Experts have con-

cluded that as many as 99 of every 100 alarms switch on for reasons other than break-ins. In 1992, the New York State Legislature estimated that 95 percent were triggered by stimuli such as vibrations from passing trucks.

So it’s no surprise that fewer than 1 percent of people who hear a car alarm bother to alert the police, according to one insurance company sur-vey—or that many more call to complain about the alarm itself.

Another reason audible alarms prove futile is that profes-sionals account for 80 percent of car thefts; many can disable a standard alarm in less than a minute.

The bottom line is that leading insurance companies, including AAA, offer no discounts on premiums for vehicles with audible alarms. You can, however, expect a discount if you have a car recovery device such as LoJack or OnStar that helps police track down a stolen vehicle. Many cars also come with an immobilizer, a device that prevents the engine from starting unless it detects a computer chip in your key fob. It isn’t foolproof and it won’t get you a discount, but it’s harder to crack than a standard alarm—and it won’t wake the neighbors every time a garbage truck rumbles past. —jason turbow

QA


➤ Go over your auto and

home policies with your agent

to make sure you understand

what you’re getting. For AAA

insurance, call (855) 706-9491

or visit AAA.com/viainsure.

NEWS FLASH

Updated maps on the wayto see adjacent cities and towns;■ more insets of downtown areas to provide a better look at freeways, streets, transit stations, and other travelers’ essentials.

➤ Ask about the updated maps at your

local AAA branch. To fi nd one near you, visit

AAA.com/branches.

Newly revised maps covering Northern California, Nevada, and Utah are arriving at AAA branches, with more titles coming between now and the end of next year. The new maps feature white covers and offer these added benefi ts:■ updated street info and points of interest;■ wider coverage, with each map showing a larger area, which means less switching from map to map


Bose Wave® music system. You’ve heard a lot about the acclaimed Wave® music system.

Now hear one for yourself. Call us today for a 30-day, risk-free trial that will let you test the

sound quality in your own home. Play your favorite CDs, and hear how instruments fi ll the

room with depths and tonal subtleties. Use the slim remote to easily tune in radio stations,

or set the clock and alarm. Order by November 19, 2011, and receive the Connect Kit for iPod

free – a $99 value. � e kit makes it easy to hear your iPod or iPhone® like never before, and

the system’s remote also controls key music functions such as playlist navigation. Your

iPod or iPhone automatically charges whenever it’s in the dock. Compare the performance

of the Wave® music system to much larger, multi-component stereos. Forbes FYI says,

“you’ll think you’re listening to a…system that costs

fi ve times more.” When you call, ask about making

12 easy payments, with no interest charges from Bose.*

And discover what’s been missing from your music.

FREECONNECT KIT

FOR IPODwhen you order by November 19, 2011.

And MoreAdd the optional Multi-CD

Changer, Connect Kit for iPod®

or SoundLink® Adapter for

your computer.

Plug It In, EnjoySetup is really this easy. You’ll

be listening in minutes.

“ Best of the Best”From the international Red

Dot awards, for product

design and innovation.

Breakthrough Waveguide Speaker Technology � e award-winning Bose®

technology that changed

the audio industry.

you hear,®

the betterthe more

it sounds.

� e Connect Kit plays music from and charges most iPod and iPhone models. In the event of audio interference, set iPhone to airplane mode. *Bose payment plan available on orders of $299-$1500 paid by major credit card. Separate fi nancing offers may be available for select products. See website for details. Down payment is 1/12 the product price plus applicable tax and shipping charges, charged when your order is shipped. � en, your credit card will be billed for 11 equal monthly installments beginning approximately one month from the date your order is shipped, with 0% APR and no interest charges from Bose. Credit card rules and interest may apply. U.S. residents only. Limit one active fi nancing program per customer. ©2011 Bose Corporation. � e distinctive design of the Wave® music system is a registered trademark of Bose Corporation. Financing and free Connect Kit offers not to be combined with other offers or applied to previous purchases, and subject to change without notice. If the system is returned, the Connect Kit must be returned for a full refund. Offers are limited to purchases made from Bose and participating authorized dealers. Offers valid 10/1/11-11/19/11. iPod not included. Risk free refers to 30-day trial only, requires product purchase and does not include return shipping. Delivery is subject to product availability. iPhone and iPod are registered trademarks of Apple Inc. Quotes reprinted with permission: � omas Jackson, Forbes FYI, Winter/04.

To order or learn more:1-800-295-2073, ext. TX482www.Bose.com/WMS

Shown in Titanium Silver with optional Connect Kit for iPod.

FREECONNECT KIT

FOR IPOD“you’ll think you’re listening to a…system that costs


12 easy payments,


To order or learn more:

“you’ll think you’re listening to a…system that costs


12 easy payments,


To order or learn more:Shown in Titanium Silver with optional Connect Kit for iPod. Shown in Titanium Silver with

BOS75682A_TX482.indd 1 8/24/11 8:13 AM15caND11_Bose.indd 2 9/21/11 8:50 AM


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*Offer valid through 1/31/2012. First visit must be made before 1/31/2012. Must use “2ndDay ticket” within 7 days after initial use. Photo ID required for revisit. Price subject to changewithout notice. Cannot be combined with any other offers, special events, Halloween HorrorNights, pre-sold tickets or discounted tickets, including 48" discounted price. Prices subjectto change without notice. Distribution on USH property prohibited. USH Managementinterpretation is final. ©2011 Universal Studios. All Rights Reserved. 11-TRA-10460

The wedding of Britain’s Prince William and Catherine Middleton was merely the latest chapter in this Gothic treasure’s 1,000-

year life. The site, fi rst used by Benedictine monks in the 10th century, has served every British coro-nation since 1066. Henry III began the modern building in 1245; other royals expanded and renovat-ed it over the next 500 years. The Abbey contains the graves of 17 monarchs as well as those of mag-nifi cent commoners including Geoffrey Chaucer, Charles Dickens, Rudyard Kipling, and Sir Isaac Newton. A staggering sweep of history in a timeless building: What better combination for those seek-ing the heart of England? —jason turbow

➤ AAA can help arrange your trip to England or

nearly any other place on earth. For information,

call (888) 219-4222 or visit AAA.com/viago.

POSTCARD

Westminster Abbey



27378 A Rev 1HertzHZYHTZM18025Nov/Dec AAAPage 4c Bleed Ad

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® Reg. U.S. Pat. Off. © 2011 Hertz System, Inc.FOR YOUR INFORMATION: Double upgrade valid on Economy through Standard 4-door vehicles. Highest obtainable upgrade is to a Premium class vehicle. Subject to upgrade vehicle availability at time and place of rental, brand and model are not guaranteed. Advance reservations are required and must include your AAA CDP#, along with the PC# for this offer. Blackout periods may apply. This offer is redeemable at participating Hertz locations in the U.S., Canada, Puerto Rico and Mexico (not all bene ts and discounts are valid in Mexico). Modifying your reservation may result in a change in rate and/or invalidate this offer. This offer has no cash value, and may not be used with Pre-Pay Rates, Tour Rates or Insurance Replacement Rates. This offer may only be used with a AAA CDP# and cannot be combined with any other certi cate, voucher, offer or promotion. Hertz age, driver, credit and qualifying weekend and weekly rate restrictions for the renting location apply. Taxes, tax reimbursement, age differential charges, fees and optional service charges, such as refueling, are not included. No credit or refund for unused fuel on Fuel Purchase Option. At the time of rental, present your AAA membership card or Hertz/AAA Discount Card for identi cation. Vehicle rental discount applies to time and mileage charges only. Offer values in local currency upon redemption. This offer is valid for vehicle pickup on or before 1/31/12. SiriusXM and all related marks and logos are trademarks of SiriusXM Radio, Inc. and its subsidiaries. Sirius and XM Radio are not available in Mexico, Hawaii, Alaska and Puerto Rico. *Discounts and bene ts are available at all Hertz corporate and participating licensee locations in the U.S. and Canada.**No charge for an additional driver who is a AAA Member, holds a major credit card in their name and meets standard rental quali cations. Use of rental vehicles off paved roads is prohibited.

Visit: Over 1,100 AAA Of cesClick: hertz.comCall: 1-800-654-3080

Why backpack when you could hatchback? AAA Members receive a double upgrade on weekend and weekly rentals

of Economy through Standard size vehicles when using PC# 158001. Get closer and go farther with exclusive discounts and bene ts for AAA Members*:

• 10% off Fuel Purchase Option• 10% off U.S. Prepaid Rates• Reduced rates on Hertz NeverLost® GPS rental• Discounts on daily, weekend, weekly, and monthly rentals

• Additional authorized driver at no charge**• 50% off SiriusXM Radio® rental• Use of child seat at no additional charge

17caND11_Hertz.indd 2 9/21/11 8:50 AM

18 MONTH+MONTH 2011 I AAA.COM/VIA

on the roadwhere to go+what to do+how to do it

T he 848-foot monolith on the Washington side of the Columbia River, 35 miles upstream from Portland, has served as a landmark to voyagers for centuries. Beacon Rock—once the core of

a volcano—looks daunting, but a 1.8-mile round-trip trail eases the climb up it with switchbacks, stairs, and hand-rails. With every step you take, the Columbia Gorge view grows more expansive. (360) 902-8844, parks.wa.gov.

PUT YOURSELF HERE

Beacon Rock State Park➤ Can’t get there? Pinnacles National Monument, southeast of Salinas, Calif., could be our next national park, welcoming even more visitors to its exceptional terrain. The 26,000-acre park features rock towers, canyons, caves, and even chances to see California condors, with their wingspans up to 91/2 feet, soaring above the rugged landscape of San Benito County. (831) 389-4485, nps.gov/pinn.

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YOUR TIPS

Travel is not without risks. VIA readers share their ways to stay

safe on the road.

“Give family your itinerary and emergency contacts, and check in often,” says Pradeep Pillai of Carson City, Nev.

“Travel in pairs,” says Meher

Siegle of Santa Rosa, Calif.

“We keep a list of the credit cards we carry and numbers to call in case one is stolen or lost,” says Tegin Helton of Portland.

“Always know where your hotel fi re exit is and count the doors to it in case there’s smoke,” says

Terri Faller of Ivins, Utah.

“Dress to blend in while abroad to be less of a target,” says Kara Allen of San Francisco.

“Never let your fuel tank get below one-quarter full,” says Louis Kleber of Las Vegas.

“I travel with Pooh Bear, a 120-pound rottweiler,” says Diane

Cohan of Santa Cruz, Calif. “He is loving, but also imposing.”

➤ How do you keep spirits

high while traveling? Email us

at [email protected]. If

we quote you, we’ll send you

a $25 check.

TRAILBLAZER

Her way is the highway

Ann Torrence, the author of U.S. Highway 89: The Scenic Route to Seven Western National Parks,

spent three years chronicling this mostly two-lane road from Canada to Mexico. anntorrence.com.Q What inspired you? A It all started when I asked myself a fateful question: Where does this highway lead?Q Why follow it? A It’s a chance to get a taste of what times were really like at the dawn of the motoring age. The scenery and the small-town fl avor are still the same. Q What are the seven national parks?A Heading south: Glacier, Yellowstone, Grand Teton, Bryce Canyon, Zion, Grand Canyon, and Saguaro. Q Some favorite spots? A Ear Mountain in Choteau, Mont.,

where the prairie meets the Rockies. I photographed my fi rst grizzly here—the last place in the lower 48 where the bears are allowed their spring foraging

on the prairie. The Oxbow Bend view in Grand Teton National Park is amazing, too.Q For sunseekers? A Head to Page, Ariz., hang out at Lake Powell, and take the walk to the overlook at Horseshoe Bend as well as the hike in Antelope Slot Canyon.Q The best landscape? A Out of Flagstaff, Ariz., as you descend from 7,000 feet to the Colorado Plateau, you get a panoramic

view of the Painted Desert. It glows.Q A treat you discovered on the way? A The pie at Thunderbird Restaurant, 12 miles outside Zion National Park’s east entrance. —peta owens-liston

Torrence captured images of a fi ve-state, 1,600-mile journey.

SOUVENIR

Wright on your treeThis winter, architect Frank Lloyd Wright will be feted with special events at Taliesin

West, his residence in Scottsdale, Ariz., and at the Phoenix Art Museum, where an exhibit on his work opens December 18. Find these ornaments ($36) at the Taliesin West gift shop. (480) 627-5398, franklloydwright.org.

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ANIMAL ARK Reno. “This small wildlife sanctu-ary offers close-up views of rescued animals includ-ing bears, wolves, tigers, mountain lions, and many others,” says Heidi Littenberg of Reno. “It also hosts cheetah runs every couple of months that are both informational and exciting.” (775) 970-3111, animalark.org.

FOLSOM CITY ZOO SANCTUARY Folsom, Calif. “Not your typical zoo,” writes Barbara Schroeder of Rancho Cordova, Calif. “The rescued wild animals include golden eagles, hawks, coyotes, cougars, ‘hoof stock,’ and even feral cats.” (916) 351-3527, folsom.ca.us/depts/parks_n_recreation/zoo.

OAKLAND ZOO Knowland Park, Oakland. “A magical, family-friendly place,” says Virginia Wong of Corte Madera, Calif. “There are 660 native and exotic animals; during the holidays the zoo is open in the evening and you can walk the lighted paths listening to seasonal music. There’s even a train families can ride.” (510) 632-9525, oaklandzoo.org.

SACRAMENTO ZOO William Land Park, Sacramento. “All the must-see zoo animals are here, except elephants,” says Karen Mizuno of Tracy, Calif. “And there are extra attractions—river otters and a reptile house. Plan a full day, with a picnic lunch in the park.” (916) 808-5885, saczoo.org.

SAFARI WEST Santa Rosa, Calif. “You can’t beat the thrills among this park’s 800 animals, including giraffes and cheetahs,” says Diane Carlin of Reno. “You’re driven through in open vehicles as if you’re on an African safari.” (707) 579-2551, safariwest.com.

SIEGFRIED & ROY’S SECRET GARDEN

AND DOLPHIN HABITAT Mirage Hotel, Las Vegas. “I can sit for hours watching the dolphins play and interact with people here,” writes Kathy Brennan of Las Vegas. “It’s incredibly calming.” (702) 791-7188, miragehabitat.com.

WHEELER HISTORIC FARM Salt Lake City. “This beautiful place has every kind of farm animal,” says Cindy Terrill of Midvale, Utah. “There are wooded trails around a pond and a creek—and admis sion is free.” (801) 264-2241, wheelerfarm.com.

SAN FRANCISCO ZOO San Francisco. “You can feel that the animals [like the lemur, above] are well cared for,” says Jenny Strickland of San Ramon, Calif. “You’ll never forget feeding time for the grizzlies and penguins, or the steam train and carousel.” (415) 753-7080, www.sfzoo.org.

READERS’ FAVORITE

Animal parks and zoos

➤ Have a favorite state park or recreation

area? Email us at [email protected]. If

we quote you, we’ll send you a $25 check.

For even more animal parks and zoos, search

for “great zoos” at AAA.com/via.


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■ The free app Saving Grace has handy packing checklists along with reminders for predeparture tasks such as emptying the fridge. itunes.apple.com.■ The brightest holiday displays? Californiachristmaslights.com lists over 400 sites throughout Northern and central California. ■ Gourmet Walks’ three-hour foodie tour of downtown Napa, Calif., offers tastes from cheeses to olive oils to chocolates infused with wine. $68. gourmetwalks.com.

DETOUR

Cheery blossoms in Utah

What are red and green and everywhere in December? Poinsettias,

of course, which are to Christmas what pumpkins are to Halloween. You can wade into a sea of blooms November 7 through December 19 in Newcastle, Utah, where 500,000 plants thrive in 23 acres of green-houses at Milgro Nursery. To keep the fl owers warm well into winter, the growers tap several geothermal wells that reach 205°F.

Although poinsettias are famed for their crimson blossoms—actually red leaves around tiny yellow-green fl owers—they also come in white, pink, and varieties such as Jingle Bells, a spattered red-and-white type. “But everyone wants what’s traditional,” says production manager Neil Watson, who estimates the crop is 85 percent red. Call if you’d like to tour the nursery: (435) 439-5285. —peta owens-liston

on the road

AAA

Red all over: December 12 is National Poinsettia Day.


OFFER CODE: 029-228

HURRY! Offer ends 12/15/11. CALL NOW:

1-877-296-4612*Offer not valid on prior sales or in combination with any other offer. Save $250 on countertop only purchases. $1,500 minimum purchase required. ‡FINANCING AVAILABLE ON FLOORING. SAVE $500 DOES NOT APPLY TO FLOORING. Subject to applicant creditworthiness. +See www.searshomeservices.com/shs/info/satisfaction-guarantee for Satisfaction Guarantee details. Sears Home Improvement Products, Inc. is a division of Sears Roebuck and Co. The ‘Sears Home Services’ brand logo is used with the permission of Sears, Roebuck and Co. ±The following licenses are held by or on behalf of Sears Home Improvement Products, Inc.: AL (Res. Bldr. #1062; HVAC #8186); AR (HVACR #1004181-B; Gen. Bldg. Contr. #203740611-B); AZ (Res. Remodeler #ROC117628 B-03; HVAC #ROC206649 C-39R; Dual Res. & Small Comm. #ROC260459 KB-02); CA (Gen. Bldg. Contr. #721379-B, Insulation & Acoustical #721379-C2, Cabinet, Millwork & Finish Carpentry #721379-C6, Flooring #721379-C15, Glazing #721379-C17, HVAC #721379-C20, Roofi ng #721379-C39, Ceramic & Mosaic Tile Cont. #721379-C54; Weatherization & Energy Conservation #721379-D65); CT (HTG, Piping & Cooling Un-Ltd. Cont. #HTG.0400133-S1; HIC #0607669); FL (Gen. Contr. #CGC012538; HVAC #CMC1249510, Certifi ed Roofi ng Cont. #CCC1329316); GA (HVAC #CR109873,); ID (HVAC #C-6134, Contracting Bus. #RCE-25219); IL (City of Chicago Home Repair #1248977); IN (Evansville Res. Remodeling Cont. #RRC0185); IA (Master HVAC #677); KY (Master HVAC #HM04667); LA (Res. Bldr. #84194; HVAC#45862); MD (HIC #87854; HVAC #6528; Contractor/Salesman #46542; HVACR #75581); MA (HIC #148607, All plumbing and electrical services performed by licensed subcontractors); MI (Res. Bldr. #2102131369; HVAC #7100915); MN (Res. Remodeler #20090017); MS (Res. Bldr. #RO5222); NV (Carpentry #43242-C3; Gen. Contr. #60609-B; Plumb. & Htg. Contr. #60610-C1; Refrig. & AC Contr. #60608-C21; Gen. Serviceman #S1469; HVAC #A0072; Roofi ng & Siding #43240-C15); NY (NYC HIC #1225166, Nassau County HIC #H1809170000, Rockland County HIC #9990-A6-00-00, Suffolk County #41506-H, Westchester County WC #18371-H06, Putnam County #3159-A, City of Yonkers #4213); NM (Gen. Bldg. Contr.#GB 98 58598; HVAC #MM98 52598; Elec.# EE-98 58598, MHD HVAC #MM98 C58598, MHD Elec. #EE98 C-58598); NC (Bldg. Limited. #47330; HVAC #15343 H-2, H-3-1, HVAC #30249 H-3-II); OH (HVAC #44752); OK (HVAC #106841); OR (Gen. Contr. #113202); PA ( HI Contractor #PA005499); RI (Res. Contr. #27281, HVAC #6260); SC (Gen. Contr. #105836-BD5; HVAC Res. #RBH-919; Mechanical Contractor #110634); TN (HIC #2319; HVAC-Unlimited Contr. #54995; Res. & Small Comm-Unlimited BC-A #54995); TX (HVAC Dallas #TACLB00020401E, San Antonio #TACLB00029020, Lubbock #TACLB00027780E; Houston #TACLB00028404E); UT (Gen. Bldg. Contr. #B-100318604-5501; HVAC #S-350 318604-5501); VA (Class A Contr. #27-0584717; HVAC #2710046587); WA (Gen. Contr. #SEARSHI011LA); Washington, DC (HIC #50006423); WV (Res. Bldr,. #WV025882, HVAC WV025882); WI (Dwelling Contr. Cert. #15151; Dwelling Contr. Qualifi er #982570; HVAC Contractor #15151). Some services performed by Sears’ associates. Other services and installation performed by Sears-Authorized licensed contractors; additional Sears license information available upon request.

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Classic comfort: Brass-and-crystal light fi xtures brighten a Mizpah Hotel room.

HOT PROPERTY

A Nevada landmark reborn

Back in the early 1900s, a hardworking silver miner in Tonopah, Nev., who was hankering for a whiskey neat and a nice supper would head to the Mizpah Hotel. With its Italian stained glass windows and fancy

decor, the Mizpah provided a taste of Victorian elegance amid the boomtown grit and grime. But by the 1930s Tonopah’s silver had played out, and in 1999, after decades of decline, the fi ve-story landmark closed.

Now, happily for drivers on the lonely stretch of highway between Reno and Las Vegas, the “grand old lady” has been revived. The savior is Nancy Cline, a proprietor of Cline Cellars in Sonoma, Calif., whose great-uncle mined precious metals in Tonopah and kept a saloon there. “What we’re offering is an oasis in the middle of the desert,” she says.

Brass chandeliers dripping with cut-glass crystals hover above Queen Anne–style velvet sofas, welcoming visitors into an airy lobby, a gourmet restaurant, and an old vault repurposed as a cocktail lounge. Upstairs are 55 guest rooms with tall windows, mahogany furnishings, and original claw-foot tubs.

Naturally, the Mizpah is steeped in lore. That late-night creaking? Perhaps it’s the tormented soul of the Lady in Red, an ill-fated purveyor of female companionship who by some accounts still haunts the fi fth fl oor. (775) 482-3030, mizpahhotel.net. —anne burke

on the road

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Area code is 415.

TO DO AND SEE Alemany Farmers’

Market Sat. 5 a.m.–5 p.m. Asian greens, mush-rooms, and apples, plus prepared foods such as hummus and 14 fl avors of tamales. Peralta Avenue and Putnam Street, 647-9423, sfgsa.org/index.aspx?page=1058. Bernal Heights Natural

Area The hill at the center of Bernal (it rhymes with kernel) offers great city views. A paved path and dirt trails lead to the top, which boasts both a multiuse park, where dogs are allowed off leash, and a rock formation composed of ocean organisms. Bernal Heights Boulevard near Anderson Street, 831-6330, sfnap.org/n_area/parks/na_ber.html. Holiday

Evening Stroll Dec. 8, 6 p.m.–9 p.m. Toasty refreshments, live music, winetasting, and deals on gifts at various shops along Cortland Avenue and Mission Street. bernalbusiness.org.

SHOPPING Heartfelt A temple to the joys of randomness: retro toys, vintage-style linens, stationery, a wall of socks, and (not for sale) Kikker the parakeet. 436 Cortland Ave., 648-1380, heartfeltsf.com. Red Hill Books Named for the area’s sup-posed communist past, this thriving independent stocks best sellers and remainders, children’s books and cookbooks, art titles and zines. 401 Cortland Ave., 648-5331, dogearedbooks.com/redhill. Succulence Part nursery, part urban general store. Walk through Four Star Video to an unexpected jewel of a garden shop offering glass terrariums, wooden clocks, jars of pickles, and astonishing succulents. 402 Cortland Ave., 282-2212, thesucculence.com. 331 Cortland Inside a compact storefront, ➤➤

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y L U N A{13} P H O T O G R A P H Y

weekenderbernal heights san francisco

Red Hill Books carries best sellers, graphic novels, travel guides, and records.

Sweet Edwardian buildings, one-of-a-kind eateries, funky shops, and a hopping farmers’ market surround a beloved hill with a 360-degree view of the city.

BERNALHEIGHTS

280

Cesar Chavez St.

Mis

sion S

t.

Cortland Ave.

101

mile

N

14

280

80

101

Area ofdetail

SanFrancisco

Tai nigiri—Japanese sea bream—tempts at Ichi Sushi.

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➤➤ fi ve food-related vendors sell wares including spices and chai, pickled goods and hearty sandwiches (Bernalogna, any-one?), plus new and vintage Japanese and European knives. 331 Cortland Ave., twitter.com/331cortland.

EATS Ichi Sushi This culi-nary hit impresses with tra-ditional fare such as salmon nigiri sprinkled with bonito shavings, and a somen noodle salad bathed in shiso pesto. 3369 Mission St., 525-4750, ichisushi.com. Liberty Café Its fl aky potpies keep patrons coming back. A cottage at the rear houses a morning bakery and a wine bar with live music on Friday and Saturday evenings. 410 Cortland Ave., 695-8777, thelibertycafe.com. Locavore Serves house-made sausages on buns. Recent favorites: a Mexican roasted-chile dog and a por-ter kielbasa. 3215 Mission St., 821-1918, locavoreca.com. Piqueo’s

Billed as Peruvian fusion, this handsome, dimly lit restaurant

pleases with pan-seared scal-lops and transcendent dulce de leche parfait. 830 Cortland Ave., 282-8812, piqueos.com. Sandbox Bakery Mutsumi Takehara’s pastries combine French and Japanese inspira-tion (melon brioche) with American essentials (morning buns). 833 Cortland Ave., 642-8580, sandboxbakerysf.com.

GET GOING Request the Northern California & Nevada TourBook and San Francisco map

at AAA.com or any AAA branch. To fi nd a place to stay, visit AAA.com/hotels. For more info, contact the San Francisco

Visitor Information Center: 900 Market St., 391-2000, onlyinsanfrancisco.com. —karen zuercher

weekender bernal heights

➤ Visit AAA.com/via for a complete archive of VIA

weekend getaways and travel articles, as well as

thousands of California, Nevada, and Utah events.

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Eternal

PalmSprings

Lounge by the pool, hike in an oasis, or hit the festivals. Why choose when you can do it all?

TOP, dine above or

join the fun street

scene at Villagefest.

BOTTOM, a 1960s gas

station now houses

a visitor center.

By Deborah FranklinPHOTOGRAPHY

BY DAVID COLLIER

30-33caND11_P.Springs.indd 3030-33caND11_P.Springs.indd 30 9/26/11 1:13 PM9/26/11 1:13 PM

AAA I VIA 31

BY XXXXXXXXXX

PHOTOGRAPHY BY XXXXXXXXXX

A hiker admires the

California fan palms

along the creek in

Andreas Canyon.

have fl ocked here for the win-ter. Just a two-hour drive from Hollywood, the rugged San Jacinto Mountains tower at the edge of Palm Springs, Calif., like a movie backdrop, shielding the desert resort from coastal storms. Back when Charlie Chaplin, Mary Pickford, and other silent-film stars spent secluded weekends here in the 1910s and ’20s, gated court-yards and shaded Spanish-style bungalows and haciendas kept fans and photographers at bay. But by the 1960s when Frank Sinatra’s Rat Pack and other celebrities bought or built homes here, the glass walls, wraparound windows, and glittering pools of that era’s best architects took a more open, modern turn, reflect-ing the postwar bravado of the young and swank. Even as the decades wore on, the town always retained a hipper vibe than the newer communities down valley. ¶ Today what’s old is once again very cool thanks to a fresh generation of desert aesthetes who have passion-ately restored dozens of hotels and custom homes to their early

No wonder generations of movie royalty



glory. With plenty of affordable lodging, even in winter high season, Palm Springs makes an excel-lent escape whether you’re keen on culture, avid for outdoor fun, or just eager to trade gray, soggy days for sunshine. In the heart of winter, typical weather brings an inviting blue sky with daytime temperatures around 70 degrees.

While most celebrity residents keep a low profile these days, you’re likely to spot big-name actors and directors strolling between the town’s fi ve movie venues during the annual Palm Springs International Film Festival, held for 12 days in early January. The well-regarded event is a great place to see the year’s best foreign fi lms and documentaries as well as mainstream American fl icks—for a total last year of 193 movies from 68 countries. Buy one of the different passes offered, or get to the box offi ce an hour before any screening for a chance to pur-

chase last-minute rush tickets for single shows.If pop culture—especially design and architec-

ture from 1930 through the early 1970s—is your infatuation, plan to arrive during Palm Springs Modernism Week, February 16 through 26, 2012. The annual citywide celebration, now in its sev-enth year, draws thousands of international visitors who recognize Palm Springs as a showcase for the streamlined blend of indoors and outdoors that marks midcentury modern design. See the piano-shaped pool in Frank Sinatra’s former residence or tour the rarely opened Albert Frey house to view the built-ins at the famed architect’s 1964 home, includ-ing steel-framed, fl oor-to-ceiling glass pocket doors, and even a huge hillside boulder incorporated as an interior wall. Home tours highlight the week, along with lectures, documentaries, a gathering of classic Airstream trailers, ’50s-themed cocktail receptions, and shows of period fashions.

One particular place has the whole region buzz-ing: Sunnylands, a grand 200-acre estate in nearby Rancho Mirage, opens officially in February. The late publishing mogul, philanthropist, and dip-lomat Walter Annenberg and his wife, Leonore, entertained U.S. presidents and movie icons in this cheery modern house from 1966 until Walter’s death in 2002. Beginning in mid-February, you can walk the labyrinth in the nine-acre desert gar-den and tour the visitor center filled with Rodin and Giacometti sculptures, 18th-century silver-gilt basketry, and other pieces from the extensive Annenberg art collection. The home itself is sched-uled to open for tours around March 1.

The Palm Springs Art Museum downtown has an allure all its own. The second Sunday of the month is free and offers art- and culture-related docu-mentaries and feature fi lms in the theater; entry is also free from 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. every Thursday. The diverse collection includes Western landscapes by William Keith, prints by Andy Warhol, and a glow-ing cast-glass gown by contemporary sculptor Karen LaMonte. December through April, the works of 19th-century luminist painter Lockwood de Forest—known for the handling of light in his superb land-scapes—will grace the walls. After perusing the exhibits, enjoy a glass of wine and tasty light fare at the museum’s lower-level Muse Café, which opens onto a romantically lit outdoor sculpture garden.

Or wander over just a block east to Villagefest, the Thursday evening downtown street scene on Palm Canyon Drive that’s part pop-up market, part block party. Don’t miss the half-dozen varieties of locally grown dates, freshly squeezed grapefruit juice, and honey from nearby farms, as well as ven-dors selling paella and handmade tamales.

A 3,000-pound

bronze horse

gazes at a 1966

Chrysler in the

Palm Springs Art

Museum.


AAA I VIA 33

Meanwhile, only two blocks north, a growing uptown dis-trict is tugging the city’s heart with shops that double as gal-leries. L.A. designer Trina Turk’s boutique is fi lled with her ’60s- and ’70s-inspired desert-chic fashions for women and home decor. Modernway stocks high-end vintage furniture from top designers of decades past; even if you can’t take home a Pierre Cardin coffee table or a bronze tea cart styled like Ben-Hur’s chariot, you’ll enjoy imagining them in your living room. Or you can check out Dazzles for more portable, affordable treasures. The secondhand shop draws set designers from Hollywood, who come for the vast collection of rainbow-hued Bakelite kitchenware, bracelets, and pins as well as 1960s lamps and Lucite tables.

Starting at 5:30 a.m., you can join the tan and sleekly groomed of all ages for organic Peruvian iced coffee and fl aky pastry at Koffi . Or order “custard cheesy scrambled eggs” and a hearty tasting fl ight of fi ve styles of bacon at thoroughly modern Cheeky’s.

Work off that breakfast in Indian Canyons, a complex of canyons where trails, wildlife, and pic-nic spots await. If you’re looking for an easy hike in a lush oasis amid California fan palms, try Andreas Canyon. Tahquitz Canyon, whose 60-foot waterfall had a cameo in the 1937 fi lm classic Lost Horizon, is a short stroll from downtown. Or take a short drive to the north end of town, where you can ascend through five ecological zones in 10 minutes. The world’s largest rotating aerial tramcar swoops up some 6,000 feet above the Sonoran Desert to an alpine forest with 54 miles of trails. When winter

weather sets in, you can rent cross-country skis or snow-shoes at the tramway’s top terminal for a long afternoon of frolicking in the frozen stuff, and still descend to the valley floor in time to enjoy a game of tennis or a round of cock-tails outside.

Later that evening, after a full day of outdoor pursuits or poolside reading or both, take in a bit of swank down-town at Le Vallauris. Starters might include vichyssoise,

escargots, or a walnut-dressed salad of Belgian endive, baby frisée, and dry desert fig terrine with pear, followed by main courses such as suc-culent duck roasted in honey and black pepper. For decades, the restaurant’s patio, surrounded by trees, has been a grand place to watch the desert sky at sunset as music from the piano in the bar floats on the breeze. Styles in fashion and food come and go—and come again—but Palm Springs remains hip for the ages. ●

deborah franklin also writes and edits for National Public Radio.

If you’re going . . .Request the Southern California and Las Vegas TourBook and Palm

Springs–Indio Area map at AAA.com or any AAA branch. To fi nd a

place to stay, visit AAA.com/hotels. For more information, contact

the Palm Springs Visitors Center: 2901 N. Palm Canyon Dr., (800)

347-7746, visitpalmsprings.com. Area code is 760 except as noted.

MEMBER DEAL AAA Travel offers a AAA Getaway at the Four

Diamond Hyatt Grand Champions Resort, Villas and Spa in nearby

Indian Wells. From $100. Members receive discount cards for the

restaurant and spa. To learn more, call (888) 219-4222.

TO DO AND SEE Palm Springs International Film Festival Jan. 5–16,

2012. psfi lmfest.org. Palm Springs Modernism Week Feb. 16–26, 2012.

modernismweek.com. Sunnylands Call for opening dates. 37977 Bob

Hope Dr., Rancho Mirage, 328-2829, sunnylands.org.

SHOPPING Dazzles 1035 N. Palm Canyon Dr., 327-1446. Modernway

745 N. Palm Canyon Dr., 320-5455, psmodernway.com. Trina Turk

Boutique 891 N. Palm Canyon Dr., 416-2856, trinaturk.com.

EATS King’s Highway 701 E. Palm Canyon Dr., 325-9900. Le Vallauris

385 W. Tahquitz Canyon Way, 325-5059.

TOP, Modernway

offers a 1950s

ceramic lamp for

$675. BOTTOM,

King’s Highway

boasts a chicken

club sandwich

and garlic fries.



Salt Lake City sings with a cosmopolitan

face-lift, a hip arts scene, and trendy restaurants.

Salt Lake City

34-37caND11_SLC_pag_aa.indd 3434-37caND11_SLC_pag_aa.indd 34 9/26/11 1:22 PM9/26/11 1:22 PM

AAA I VIA 35

RhapsodyUtah’s

i BY N I NO PA DOVA PHO T OGR A PH Y BY SCO T Z I M M ER M A N

in a dark theater that was once a Mormon church, a man in his pajamas talks to a 12-foot angel. A mile away, a concep-tual artist uses old Road Runner cartoons to explore themes of the American West while around the corner throngs of mountain-tanned twentysomethings sip high-octane martinis under the watchful gaze of Che Guevara. ¶ Welcome to Saturday night in Salt Lake City—the new Salt Lake City. Not since the 2002 Winter Olympics has the

state capital flared with such civic excite-ment. Downtown is in the midst of a $2 billion redevelopment project, and beneath the scaffolding and hard hats, streets are thrumming with activity that belies some of the city’s oldest stereotypes. Chain restau-rants? They’re still here, but so are a growing number of bistros and high-concept kitch-ens. Megamalls? You could just as easily stroll through a dozen art galleries and mid-century furniture shops. Sleepy nightlife? In

LEFT, martinis

and Che Guevara

at the Red Door.

OPPOSITE, an art

buff in the white

landscape of 15th

Street Gallery.

Bohemian


2009 the state relaxed its liquor laws, giving rise to a host of new cocktail bars and brewpubs. For the fi rst time in over 40 years, a person could simply walk into a Utah bar and get a drink.

Which I’m tempted to do, except that it’s 11 a.m. and I’m already light-headed. Climbing the curving staircase of the Salt Lake City Public Library as it coils six stories into a strato-sphere of glass will do that to you. Completed in 2003 under the artful eye of starchitect Moshe Safdie, the building is a fever dream of avant-garde design—crescent-curved walls, spi-raling fi replaces, and an abundance of natural light. It’s also a fi tting symbol of the city’s renaissance.

“People sometimes have this false perception of us as a bed-room community,” says Jason Mathis, director of the Salt Lake City Downtown Alliance. Mathis is among the new guard of bright-eyed hopefuls promoting the idea of Salt Lake as cosmo-politan, diverse, caffeinated. “Did you know we were rated one of the top 10 most bohemian cities in North America?”

I hadn’t. But sure enough, Salt Lake City is the seventh most bohemian metro area in the United States—one spot behind Nashville, two ahead of San Francisco—according to Richard Florida, author of The Rise of the Creative Class.

Eager to get a taste of Salt Lake’s boho side, I head to Broadway, a commercial strip of mom-and-pop shops that

would feel right at home in San Francisco’s Mission District or southeast Portland. You can get served by talented baris-tas at Nobrow Coffee & Tea Company and peruse paintings by local artists. At Frosty Darling, a boutique with handmade gifts and candy plucked out of a 1950s diorama, owner Gentry Blackburn sells stuffed ninjas made from dress shirts and reams

of wrapping paper too precious to tear. You may be met by Itsy-Bitsy Von Muffl ing, the house cat at Retro Rose, a funky vintage shop bursting with brightly colored dishes, bowls, vases, teapots, and other knick-knacks. A few doors down, Slowtrain Music claims a scrupulously curated vinyl collection that leans heavily on underground and indie rock. The clerk perks up when I press him for a recommendation. “Check out these guys,” he beams, peeling a record from a group called Spell Talk out of a thick stack of disks by local bands. “They’re gonna be big.”

For more talent, head across town to the Sugar House neighbor-hood, where 15th Street Gallery fi lls its capacious all-white interior with paintings of urban landscapes, mixed media, and still-life flowers. The city’s best young artists get shown here, making it a prime stop on the popular third-Friday Gallery Strolls (first Fridays during December). “The visual arts scene is really start-ing to take off,” says artist Meghan Fall. “Before, there were maybe one or two shows worth seeing at any time, but now there’s so much going on you actually have to decide what

Chef Takashi Gibo creates edible art such as a

needlefi sh sushi plate at his self-named eatery.

The light-fi lled Urban Room at the main library has shops and study areas.


AAA I VIA 37

you want to check out.”A fresh crop of young, exciting

chefs recently left behind Michelin-rated glory gigs in New York City and San Francisco to sharpen their knives beneath the scrub-covered peaks of the Wasatch Front. Got a favorite food trend? Chances are you’ll fi nd it well represented in Salt Lake City.

I encounter farm-to-table fervor at Pago, a civilized bistro where the menu is footnoted with the names of local growers whose ingredients come together in such standout dishes as chèvre-stuffed fi gs drizzled with wildflower honey, and braised Morgan Valley lamb with house -made gnocchi. At Forage, twin-toques Bowman Brown and Viet Pham channel their inner alchemists with five-course meals that might include northern Utah rabbit with summer squash.

Asian taco trucks? Follow Chow Truck’s Twitter feed to find lemon-grass chicken or flash-fried cala-mari in tender corn tortillas. Small plates? The Copper Onion tosses a pork-belly salad with crunchy brus-sels sprouts that’ll make you rethink ordering an entrée. Wood-fired pizza? The thin, perfectly blistered pies at Vinto come on sleek cutting boards that complement the restau-rant’s modern decor.

I’m so moved by my sushi dinner at Takashi that I march up to chef-owner Takashi Gibo midmeal and demand to know how he comes by butter-soft kampachi and uni all the way out here, locked between two mountain ranges and a stretch of desert, and nowhere near an ocean. “I get the same fi sh they do in San Francisco and Seattle,” says Gibo. “Only I get it an hour earlier. It’s called mountain time.”

I could spend the whole night slow-chewing delicate slivers of Gibo’s choice fi sh, but I have plans. Up the street, the Salt Lake Art Center is premiering a new exhibit by 20 local and regional artists called Go West. Some two blocks away, I take in a searing performance of Angels in America put on by the Salt Lake Acting Company.

Ten minutes after curtain call I’m leaning against the ice-coated bar at the Beerhive Pub—the nerve center of Salt Lake’s up-and-coming craft brew movement—sipping a pint of locally

batched Polygamy Porter (slogan: why have just one!). From there, I head south one block to the Red Door, a mood-lit cocktail lounge, for a nightcap. A jazz combo brushes through Radiohead and U2 for a roomful of spaghetti straps and skinny jeans.

I walk up to the bar and order a whiskey. Neat. That’s when I notice Che Guevara. His wall-tall glare shoots straight over my shoulder, out the window, and into the city night. He’s got a faraway look in his eyes, like he sees something in the distance. It’s change—and I think it’s gonna be big. ●

nino padova, a former VIA editor, works at Sunset.

Request the Colorado & Utah TourBook and Salt Lake City–Park City Guide at AAA.com or any AAA branch. To fi nd a place to stay, visit AAA.com/hotels. For more information, contact the Salt Lake Convention & Visitors

Bureau: (801) 534-4900, visitsaltlake.com. Area code is 801 except as noted.

DOWNTOWN RISING City Creek Center, a 23-acre complex of shops and restaurants across from Temple Square, is slated to open spring 2012. downtownrising.com.

MEMBER DEAL AAA Travel offers a AAA Getaway at the luxurious, pet-friendly Hotel Monaco, where members enjoy 20 percent off the best available rate and a complimentary breakfast for two. From $96. To learn more, call (888) 219-4222.

SHOPPING Frosty Darling 177 E. Broad-way, 532-4790, frostydarling.com. Retro

Rose 207 E. Broadway, 364-7979, saltlakecityutah.org/retrorose.htm. Slowtrain

Music 221 E. Broadway, 364-2611, slow trainmusic.com.

EATS Chow Truck 916-6605, chowtruck.com. The Copper Onion 111 E. Broadway, Ste. 170, 355-3282, thecopperonion.com. Forage 370 East 900 South, 708-7834,foragerestaurant.com. Pago 878 South 900 East, 532-0777, pagoslc.com. Takashi 18 W. Market St., 519-9595. Vinto 418 East 200 South, 539-9999, vinto.com.

DRINKS Beerhive Pub 128 S. Main St., 364-4268. Nobrow Coffee & Tea Co. 315 East 300 South, 364-3448. Red Door 57 West 200 South, 363-6030.

TO DO AND SEE 15th Street Gallery 1519 South 1500 East, 468-1515, 15thstreetgallery.com. Salt Lake Acting Company 168 West 500 North, 363-7522, saltlakeactingcompany.org. Salt Lake Art Center 20 SW Temple, 328-4201, slartcenter.org.

IF YOU’RE GOING . . .

Slowtrain Music stocks some 7,500 CDs

and LPs, and hosts live in-store music.



mong the majestic iron horses pastured at the California State Railroad Museum, none is a more

poignant reminder of the genius who con-ceived the transcontinental railroad than C.P. 1. Built in Philadelphia in 1862, the year Congress authorized construction of Theodore D. Judah’s grand dream, Central Pacifi c Railroad locomotive No. 1 was dis-assembled, shipped in crates around Cape Horn, then pieced back together like an Ikea coffee table at the railhead in Sacramento.

Judah had gone east to seek fi nancing. In New York on November 2, 1863, at just 37, he died. Nine days later, C.P. 1’s maiden trip set in motion an enterprise that would knit the nation together with strands of steel.

The men who put down vast sums of money to build the transcontinental railroad “couldn’t be sure whether anybody would want to go where the tracks went,” says Paul Hammond, the museum’s director. Soon enough, they were making vast numbers of people want to go. Train travel and settlement of the West rode into the future along parallel lines.

Now in its 30th year, the museum focuses on connecting histories, of rail-roads and of the people they carried. “What is wonderful,” says Jim Wrinn, editor of Trains magazine, “is how it takes the hardware and the human expe-rience and tells a dramatic story of people making transportation work.”

The mammoth cab-forward locomotive near the museum’s roundhouse combined mountain-climbing power with lifesaving ingenuity. Built for the Southern Pacifi c line to pull trains over the Sierra, it put the driver in front of fuel exhaust fumes that could be deadly in the railway’s 35 miles of tunnels.

The gleaming stainless steel dining car nearby was part of a new stream-liner, the Super Chief, that the Atchison, Topeka and Sante Fe Railway rolled out in 1937, when travel was the destination. Tables are set for the next meal; after one of the museum’s 500 volunteer docents sounds the din-ner chime, you can imagine cutting into the $3 sirloin on the menu. Next door, a Pullman sleeper car rocks from side to side. Berths have been made up and ladders extended—along with the palm of the porter. “If you didn’t tip him,” says docent Cesar Abate, “you were going to have a long night.”

The museum strikes a neat balance between its appeal to railroad enthu-siasts—many of them old enough to remember train travel in its glory—and its impression on toddlers who wobble up to the giant locomotives with undisguised awe and look longingly at the rather more manageable toy trains. The toy train gallery is the museum’s antic attic, where age gaps narrow and eyes widen as rolling stock from Lionel and other brands races through tunnels and into depots.

With its wealth of attractions, California’s railroad museum has become a smokestack Smithsonian, drawing more visitors annually than any similar train stop in the United States. Thirty years out of the station, it is running right on time. ●

bruce newman has written for the New York Times, Sports Illustrated, and TV Guide, and is currently a staff writer at the San Jose Mercury News.

TOP, docent Wes Beyer is also a real conductor on the museum’s own Sacramento Southern Railroad. RIGHT, Central Pacifi c No. 1 lives on in the Sierra Scene diorama depicting a construction site.

TRAINSTHAT WONTHE WEST

Steam power meets dream power A

38-39caND11_Trains.indd 3838-39caND11_Trains.indd 38 9/26/11 1:16 PM9/26/11 1:16 PM

AAA I VIA 39

If you’re going . . .The Northern California &

Nevada TourBook and the

Sacramento North & Citrus

Heights map are available

at AAA.com and any AAA

branch. To fi nd a place to

stay, visit AAA.com/hotels.

The museum is at the corner

of Second and I streets in

Old Sacramento and is open

daily (except Thanksgiving,

Christmas, and New Year’s

Day), 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Admission: $9 for adults,

$4 for youths 6–17, free for

children under 6. Docents

dressed in railroad garb or

period attire discuss history

and answer questions. The

museum also offers guided

tours and fi lms. Information:

(916) 445-6645, csrmf.org.

in Sacramento’s railroad museum. BY BRUCE NEWMAN

Photography by DAVID COLLIER

38-39caND11_Trains.indd 3938-39caND11_Trains.indd 39 9/26/11 1:16 PM9/26/11 1:16 PM

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AAA.com/via



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CALIFORNIA

November 6 Walnut Creek Trail

Adventure Hike, run, or walk along scenic trails through Mount Diablo State Park and Castle Rock Park, and fi nish with a tasty barbecue lunch and music. (925) 947-3535.

November 8 Mountain View The

Technology of Animation DreamWorks Animation and Hewlett-Packard bigwigs provide a rare behind-the-scenes look at digital animation in this series premiere. Computer History Museum. (650) 810-1010.

November 9 Oakland Lykke Li The Swedish songstress pairs haunting vocals with a smorgasbord of sounds, including those of violins and synthesizers, in her indie-pop songs. Fox Theater. (800) 745-3000.

November 9–13 Napa Valley Napa Valley

Film Festival See more than 75 fi lm screen-ings and hobnob with Hollywood elite during winetastings at this inaugural event. Various locations. (707) 226-7500.

November 15–December 11 San Francisco Fela! The story of Nigerian musician Fela Kuti—who pioneered the Afrobeat move-ment in the 1960s—comes to life in a fusion of theater, dance, and song. Curran Theatre. (888) 746-1799.

November 18–March 18 San Francisco

Playland at the Conservatory: A Garden

Railway Celebrating San Francisco’s West

End Model trains chug along displays of the Sutro Baths, the Cliff House, and Playland-at-the-Beach, all made from recycled materi-als. Conservatory of Flowers. (415) 831-2090.

November 26–27 and December 3–4,

10 –11, 17 –18 Berkeley Holiday Open

Studios Meet more than 100 artists in their workspaces and purchase handcrafted menorahs, herbal-infused syrups, and sweet trinkets. Various locations. (510) 845-2612.

November 30–April 2 Santa Rosa Hit the

Road, Snoopy! Fifty-six original Peanuts comic strips highlight the beloved beagle’s road trips, including a visit to see his brother Spike in Needles, Calif. Charles M. Schulz Museum. (707) 579-4452.

December 2–3 Columbia Lamplight Tours Guides dressed in Gold Rush garb lead evening tours through an 1850s-era business district, acting out a holiday-themed play en route. Columbia State Historic Park. (209) 588-9128.

December 3 Grass Valley Reinventing

Radio: An Evening with Ira Glass The host of the public radio show This American Life discusses what makes a compelling radio story and shares funny anecdotes. Veterans Memorial Auditorium. (530) 274-8384.

December 3 and 10 Vallejo Mad Hatter

Holiday Festival A wacky wonderland featuring a parade with steampunk cars, a concert by tween star Gabi Wilson, a tree-lighting ceremony, carnival rides, and more. Downtown. (415) 773-5393.

A toast to Monterey CountyThe convergence of land and sea yields temperate conditions for winemaking along California’s Central Coast. Savor local vino and food at the inaugural Best of

the Blue, November 12, in the refurbished Del Monte Aviation Hangar at Monterey Peninsula Airport in Monterey, Calif. You can sample from more than 40 regional wineries; snack on dishes from nearly a dozen gourmet food trucks such as Babaloo Cuban Cuisine and the Pizza Gypsy; browse a wine market; and admire artwork depicting the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary and a nearby underwater gorge nicknamed the “Blue Grand Canyon.” (831) 375-9400, montereywines.org.

➤ Want more?It’s open-house season at vineyards throughout Northern California, so raise a celebratory glass.

A Wine & Food Affair November 5–6, Sonoma County, Calif. (800) 723-6336, wineroad.com.

The First Sip Lodi Harvest Celebration November 12–13, Lodi, Calif. (209) 365-0621, fi rstsiplodi.com.

Passport Day November 19, Santa Cruz Mountains, Calif. (831) 685-8463, scmwa.com.

Holidays in the Vineyards December 3–4, Livermore Valley, Calif. (925) 447-9463, lvwine.org. —laura kiniry

eventsnovember+december 2011

Sip wines from Salinas and Carmel.

46-47caND11_EVENTS.indd 4646-47caND11_EVENTS.indd 46 9/28/11 4:36 PM9/28/11 4:36 PM

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November 11–13 Moab Moab River

Rendezvous A weekend fl owing with geological presentations from experts, lec-tures about the San Juan River and local wildlife, a guided walk through Dead Horse Point State Park, and a fi lm festival about the history of river-running. Moab Arts & Recreation Center. (866) 202-1847.

November 25–January 11 Park City Kent

Budge: In Plain Sight The Ogden native presents photographs of objects we may over-look during our daily routines, including empty pools and decrepit streets. Kimball Art Center. (435) 649-8882.

November 25–December 26 Salt Lake

City The Grouch Who Stole Christmas The green grump transforms from the Dr. Seuss character to the Sesame Street star. Off Broadway Theatre. (801) 355-4628.

December 3 Browns Park Winter Family

Festival Admire birds of prey, listen to cow-boy poetry, watch rope-making demos, and more. John Jarvie Ranch. (435) 781-4400.

NEVADA

November 5 Henderson ITU Long Course

Triathlon World Championships The second-largest city in Nevada hosts 1,200 athletes for “the toughest course in North America.” Various locations. (877) 775-5252.

November 11–12 Reno Canfest Take a crack at microbrews in aluminum containers from Anderson Valley Brewing Company, Big Sky Brewing Company, and Oskar Blues Brewery, among others. Silver Legacy Resort Casino. (775) 323-2977.

December 3 Las Vegas Las Vegas Great

Santa Run Thousands gather for a morning 5K run or walk and attempt to break the Guinness world record for the most Saint Nicks in one place. Town Square Las Vegas. (702) 259-3741.

December 26–January 27 Henderson Endangered Nevada Plants Local artist Dolores Nast honors vulnerable vegetation with paintings of Clokey thistle and White River catseye, among others. Henderson Multigenerational Center. (877) 775-5252.

UTAH

November 1–2 Salt Lake City Blast! An award-winning troupe marches, drums, and twirls batons with the vigor and passion of a high school or military drill team during this Broadway musical. Kingsbury Hall. (801) 581-7100.

November 8–30 Vernal Gilsonite–The

Early Years The history of the naturally occurring asphalt, found only in the Uinta Basin, is examined in an exhibit featuring a mine car and pictures of Uintah Railway workers dating back to 1904. Western Heritage Museum. (435) 789-7399.

6 picks: Festive concerts Oaxacan music, aerialists, and Grammy Award–winning gospel singers spice up the season.

VIA (ISSN 1093-1716) is published bimonthly by AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah, 1900 Powell St., Ste. 1200, Emeryville, CA 94608. Periodicals Postage Paid at Oakland, CA, and at additional mailing offices. Postmaster Send address changes to VIA, AAA, P.O. Box 24502, Oakland, CA 94623.

MORE INFO

➤ For more events in Northern

California, Nevada, and Utah, visit

AAA.com/viaevents.

➤ To be considered for the March/April

2012 issue, event notices must be received

by December 1. Submit events through

AAA.com/submitevent or viaevents@via

magazine.com, or mail to Events Editor,

VIA, AAA, P.O. Box 24502, Oakland, CA

94623. All submissions will be considered

for both VIA magazine and our website.

A Harlequin juggles and mimes to the sounds of the Utah Symphony.

Día de los Muertos Community Concert November 5, San Francisco. (415) 864-6000, sfsymphony.org/diadelosmuertos.

Veterans Day Concert November 11, Logan, Utah. (435) 752-0026, americanfestivalchorus.org.

WinterFest December 9–10, Henderson, Nev. (877) 775-5252, hendersonlive.com.

Let Us Break Bread Together: A

Holiday Celebration December 11, Oakland. (800) 745-3000, oebs.org.

Holiday Celebration with Cirque de la

Symphonie December 15–17, Ogden and Salt Lake City, Utah. (801) 355-2787, utahsymphony.org.

The Blind Boys of Alabama Christmas

Show December 17, Napa, Calif. (707) 259-0123, uptowntheatrenapa.com.

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Web extrasFind lively, online-only stories at AAA.com/viaextras.

TRIPLE COCONUT CREAM PIE RECIPE

Chef Tom Douglas of Seattle’s Dahlia Lounge shares his secret for making this dreamy dessert at home. His No. 1 hint? No fake stuff.CALIFORNIA GOLD COUNTRY A roundup of six small historic towns in the Sierra, most along Highway 49, proves that there’s still treasure aplenty in them thar hills.DEBATE: BEST FOOD CITY IN THE WEST?

Which town offers the fi nest eating, Portland or San Francisco? Writers Brian Doyle and Josh Sens sharpen their wits and dish up their best defense.

AAA.com/via

Readers’ corner

“Long before climbers, hikers, and geology lovers started visiting Devils Tower, the

Lakota, Cheyenne, and other tribes considered the monolith a sacred site. Every June, American Indians hold traditional prayer ceremonies at the rock, and the National Park Service asks the public to refrain from climbing.”—linda pulliam of oakland responding to the

september/october western wonder

destinations+road trips+more

Want more?ROAD TRIPS Sign up for VIA’s fun monthly emails and you’ll fi nd some great scenic routes, including Northern California’s Pacifi c Coast Highway. To

subscribe, visit AAA.com/viaemail and start planning your next outing.

MORE YUMMY EATS Our Road Journals blog is loaded with extra travel discoveries, including great food fi nds like buttery cinnamon rolls in Casper, Wyo.; addictive pine nuts in the shell in St. George, Utah; and gourmet food trucks in Las Vegas. Join the conversa-tion at AAA.com/roadjournals.

➤ Contact Us Comments may be edited and

may also be used online at AAA.com/via. Write to us

at Comments, VIA, AAA, P.O. Box 24502, Oakland,

CA 94623. Or visit AAA.com/contactvia.

Events Road Trips Food & Wine Attractions Destinations Travel Tips AAA News & Benefi ts

48caND11_Online.indd 4848caND11_Online.indd 48 9/28/11 4:40 PM9/28/11 4:40 PM

For people like me, who want a cell phone that’s easy to use.Over the years, cell phones have become smaller and smaller with so many complicated features. They are harder to programand harder to use. But the Jitterbug cell phone has simplified everything, so it’s not only easy to use, it’seasy to try. No crowded malls, no waiting in line,no confusing sales people, or complicated plans.Affordable and convenient cell phone service isonly a toll-free phone call away.

The cell phone that’s right for me. SometimesI think the people who designed this phone andthe rate plans had me in mind. The phone fitseasily in my pocket, and flips open to reachfrom my mouth to my ear. The display is largeand backlit, so I can actually see who is calling.With a push of a button I can amplify the volume, and if I don’t know a number, I cansimply push “0” for a friendly, helpful operator that will look it up and even dial it for me. The Jitterbug also reduces background noise, making the soundloud and clear. There’s even a dial tone,so I know the phone is ready to use.

Affordable plans that I can understand – and no contract to sign! Unlike other cell phones,Jitterbug has plans that make sense.Why should I pay for minutes I’mnever going to use? And if I do

talk more than I plan, I won’t find myself with no minutes likemy friend who has a prepaid phone. Best of all, there is no contract to sign – so I’m not locked in for years at a time or

subject to termination fees. The U.S.–based customerservice is second to none, and the phone gets service

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Call now and get a FREE CarCharger and FREE Leather Carrying Case – a $43.99 value.Try Jitterbug for 30 days and if you don't love it, just return it1.Why wait, the Jitterbug comesready to use right out of the box.If you aren’t as happy with it as I am, you can return it for a refundof the purchase price. Call now,the Jitterbug product experts areready to answer your questions.

IMPORTANT CONSUMER INFORMATION: Jitterbug is owned by GreatCall, Inc. Your invoices will come from GreatCall. All rate plans and services require the purchase of a Jitterbug phone and a one-time set up fee of $35. Coverage and service is notavailable everywhere. Other charges and restrictions may apply. Screen images simulated. There are no additional fees to call Jitterbug’s 24-hour U.S. Based Customer Service. However, for calls to an Operator in which a service is completed, minutes will bededucted from your monthly balance equal to the length of the call and any call connected by the Operator, plus an additional 5 minutes. Monthly rate plans do not include government taxes or assessment surcharges. Prices and fees subject to change. 1Wewill refund the full price of the Jitterbug phone if it is returned within 30 days of purchase in like-new condition. We will also refund your first monthly service charge if you have less than 30 minutes of usage. If you have more than 30 minutes of usage, a perminute charge of 35 cents will apply for each minute over 30 minutes. The activation fee and shipping charges are not refundable. Jitterbug is a registered trademark of GreatCall, Inc. Samsung is a registered trademark of Samsung Electronics America, Inc.and/or its related entities. Copyright © 2011 GreatCall, Inc. Copyright © 2011 by firstSTREET for Boomers and Beyond, Inc. All rights reserved.

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Their priority: Sell insurance.Our priority: You.


Our priority: You.

Get an auto quote today and receive a FREE emergency light for your added protection.*

*Valid at AAA branches in Northern California, Nevada & Utah. Offer good until 11/30/2011 or while supplies last. May not be combined with any other offer. Only one offer per household, some restrictions apply. Quotes for existing AAA policies do not qualify. AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah, a AAA Member Club provides insurance through the Cal State Auto Group. © 2011 AAA Northern California, Nevada & Utah. All rights reserved. P1940

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via nov/dec 2011

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