uster® hvi classic - cotton · pdf fileh. ghorashi/ ci singapore, 04-04 18 of 22...

USTER® HVI CLASSIC

Hossein Ghorashi

04/27/20042 of 22H. Ghorashi/ CI Singapore, 04-04

New Company


USTER® Products in the Cotton Supply Chain

For gin process

controlling...

For gin process

controlling...

fibertesting...

fibertesting...

yarntesting...

yarntesting...

yarn clearing ...

yarn clearing ...

...for fabric inspection !...for fabric inspection !


Worldwide Cotton Production

19%19%5%5%

9%9%5%5%

27%27%

4%4%

13%13%India

China (Mainland)

Uzbekistan

Australia

5%5%USA

9%9%Pakistan

Turkey


Worldwide Cotton Consumption

15%15%8%8%

3%3%

6%6%

25%25%34%34%

India, Pakistan & SE Asia

ChinaCentral Asia

9%9%


Worldwide Cotton Quality

Quality Attribute Ranges (excluding Pima)

• Micronaire 2.7 - 5.9• Length 15/16 - 1 3/8 (32s)

0.94 - 1.37 (inch)23.8 - 34.9 (mm)

• Strength 23.0 - 35.5 HVI g/tex

Source: Cotton Varieties by Origin, Bremen Cotton Exchange


USTER® HVI Installations Worldwide – 2003

Total: App. 1500 units in 71 countries

NAFTA 23%

S.America 9%

Europe 16%

Africa & Middle East

13%

Asia & Australia

39%


Uster HVI Installations- Asia

Total Asia 518Indonesia 32Malaysia 4Philippines 9Thailand 26Vietnam 1


FIBER QUALITY MEASUREMENTS

RESEARCH

Institutes

APPLIED

BreedingPrograms

MachineryManufacturers

Gins

Classing Laboratories

TextileMills


FIBER QUALITY MEASUREMENTSApplied

GINS

On-LineProcess Control

On-Line ClassingColor, Leaf

Off-Line ClassingMicronaire,

Length, Strength

CLASSINGLABORATORIES

Warehousing

Marketing

TEXTILE MILLS

Procurement

Warehousing

MixSelection

Off-line Process Control


Manual Cotton Classification

Based on:• Grade: Visual classification of color and

trash content• Staple: Manual determination of fiber

length

• Disadvantage: Highly dependent on human (= highly variable) Cotton Classer


History of Cotton ClassingHistory of Cotton Classing

Edgar Degas: “Portraits in a New Orleans Cotton Office”, 1873Edgar Degas: “Portraits in a New Orleans Cotton Office”, 1873


• 100% HVI test results: Micronaire, UHML, Uniformity, Strength, and color (Rd and +b)

• Short Fiber Index, a direct measurement from fiber length distribution

• Leaf Grade is the only quality parameter still assigned by a (human) USDA Cotton Classer

• Advantage:• Improved Accuracy of Cotton Classification• Provides “common language” in international

cotton transactions

Instrument Cotton Classification


Instrument Cotton Classification Color and Trash • Rd = Reflectance; the whiteness of the light that

is reflected by the cotton fibers

• +b = Yellowness; the yellowness of the light that is reflected by the cotton fibers

• Color Grade = Combination of Rd and +b; representing official USDA Upland Grade Standards

• Trash Count = the number of trash particles in the cotton sample on the measurement area

• Trash Area = indicates the size of trash in the cotton sample covering the measurement area

• Trash Grade = Determined by Trash Area, and compared to USDA Leaf Grade Standards


USDA Cotton ClassificationUSDA Cotton Classification

• Since 1991: 100% USTER® HVI Cotton Classification


Cotton Classing Operations• Examples of Cotton Classing Operations

using USTER® HVI Instruments:

Classing Organization Ownership

USDA (USA) Government

China Government

Uzbekistan Government

Brazil (BOLSA) Private

Brazil (SGS) Private

Australia Private

India (Maharastra) Government

Zimbabwe Private


FIBER QUALITY MEASUREMENTSApplied

GINS

On-LineProcess Control

On-Line ClassingColor, Leaf

Off-Line ClassingMicronaire,

Length, Strength

CLASSINGLABORATORIES

Warehousing

Marketing

TEXTILE MILLS

Procurement

Warehousing

MixSelection

Off-line Process Control


USTER® HVI Textile Mill ApplicationsResults Affecting Your Bottom Line • Standard Cotton Classification – worldwide• Common language for the seller and buyer of

cotton• Verifies cotton quality and insures the buyer

that he received what he paid for• Warehousing based fiber quality• Uniform and optimized lay-downs insures

desired end quality of yarn• Process optimization


USTER® HVIApplication Example

Fabric Barré


USTER® HVI - Application ExampleCauses of Fabric Barré %Contribution

• Raw Material Variation (Fiber) 70%

• Yarn Count Variation 10%• Yarn Twist Variation 10%• Yarn Hairiness Variation 10%

⇒⇒ Variation in raw material (cotton lay-downs)is the major cause of fabric barré


Cotton Fiber DevelopmentCotton Fiber Development

• Seed is planted (U.S.: Late April, early May)

• 2 weeks later, 2 leaves appear on the cotton plant

• At 5-6 weeks, the 1st flower bud appears; at 8-10 weeks, the 1st flower blooms; flowers fall off, leaving bolls

• Seed hair starts to grow inside the bolls


Cotton Fiber DevelopmentCotton Fiber Development

closed boll

open boll

Dead Fiber

ImmatureFiber

NormalFiber

• In 16-18 days, the fibers grow in their perimeter (diameter) and length

• For the next 22-50 days, cellulose is deposited inside the hollow fibers

• When the deposit of cellulose stops, the boll dries up and cracks open


USTER® HVI - Application ExampleFabric Barré: Acceptable variation of Micronairebetween bales within 1 lay-down:

3.6

3.7

3.8

3.9

4.0

4.2

4.3

4.4

4.5

4.6

4.7

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

Bale Number

Micronaire

Avg. 4.1 CV 17.7%

Recommended CV < 10%Recommended CV < 10%


USTER® HVI - Application ExampleFabric Barré: Acceptable change in average MicronaireFrom lay-down to lay-down

3.8

3.9

4.0

4.1

4.2

4.3

4.4

4.5

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

Lay-down number

Micronaire

Maximum ± 0.1


USTER® HVI - Application ExampleRaw Material Control –Single lot = 100 bales = 100%

MicronaireDistribution = normal

Maturity Distribution = normal

LOT #7

0.0%

5.0%

10.0%

15.0%

20.0%

25.0%

30.0%

3.3 3.5 3.7 3.9 4.1 4.3 4.5 4.7 4.9 5.1 5.3 5.5 5.7

Micronaire

LOT #7

0.0%

10.0%

20.0%

30.0%

40.0%

50.0%

82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93

Maturity


USTER® HVI - Application ExampleRaw Material Control –Single lot = 100 bales = 100%

MicronaireDistribution = OutlierOutlier

Maturity Distribution = SkewedSkewed

LOT #1

0.0%

5.0%

10.0%

15.0%

20.0%

3.3 3.5 3.7 3.9 4.1 4.3 4.5 4.7 4.9 5.1 5.3 5.5 5.7

Micronaire

LOT #1

0.0%5.0%

10.0%15.0%20.0%25.0%30.0%35.0%40.0%

82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93

Maturity


USTER® HVI - Application ExampleFabric Barré – Prevention:• Do not exceed a change in average Micronaire

from mix to mix of more than +/- 0.1 Micronaire

• Maintain low variation of Micronaire within mix (CV below 10%)

• Do not place groups of bales with sameMicronaire side by side in lay-down

• Additional Maturity Index information helps eliminating outlier bales in the lay-down


Fabric Barré – Prevention:USTER® HVI - Application Example

ALL LOTs

0%2%4%6%8%

10%12%14%

3.3 3.5 3.7 3.9 4.1 4.3 4.5 4.7 4.9 5.1 5.3 5.5 5.7

Micronaire

5% Mature5% Mature= GOOD= GOOD

2% Immature2% Immature= BAD= BAD

• Use new Maturity Index to detect outliers!• Not all bales with a Micronaire below 4.0 are

immature fibers• Not all bales with a Micronaire between 4.0 and

4.4 are mature fibers


• Need : The need for a lower priced HVI was noted

• Objective :The objective was to provide the same quality and functions of an Uster HVI Classing

• Solution :Refurbished HVI

Introducing :USTER® HVI CLASSIC


What is it?• USDA purchases 30-40 HVI Classing

annually• The same number of HVI are traded with the

new ones• The best of the trade-ins are selected,

refurbished by changing the moving components

• This HVI is meticulously tested using standard qualification procedures

• This is HVI Classic, Carries a 6 months warranty and is guaranteed a performance equivalent to the new units

Introducing :USTER® HVI CLASSIC


USTER® HVI CLASSIC

Instrument in L-Shape Configuration


USTER® HVI CLASSICBasic Functions• Measurements of cotton fibers (bale Samples):

• Length and Uniformity• Short Fiber Index• Strength and Elongation• Micronaire and Maturity Index• Color (Reflectance and Yellowness)• Trash (Particle Count and % Area)

• Cycle time: 30 seconds for 1 Micronaire, 2 L/S and 2 C/T tests per sample

• Throughput: 700 – 800 samples/ 8-hour shift with 1 operator


USTER® HVI CLASSICFully automated HVI™

Micronaire

Length/ StrengthColor/

Trash

• Fully automated operation reduces operator influence to a minimum

• Measures both roller- and saw-ginned cotton according to ASTM standards


• Additional customer value provided by unique algorithms:

• Expected waste levels indicated by the amount of short fibers (SFI = Short Fiber Index) in the cotton bale

• SFI also indicates how aggressive the cotton was ginned

• Micronaire alone does not prevent fabricbarré if cottons from different growth areas are used

• The Maturity IndexMaturity Index allows for better evaluation of such cottons

USTER® HVI CLASSICUnique Algorithms


USTER® HVI CLASSICBasic Functions• Data Report


USTER® FIBER TESTING

Thank you for your attention!

Questions?

uster® hvi classic - cotton · pdf fileh. ghorashi/ ci singapore, 04-04 18 of 22...

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