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A Northwest family builds a dining empire p43

Chefs share their favorite foodie neighborhoods p38

best* THE TOWN’S

TOP 10

* BROWSE BY NEIGHBORHOOD

Portland’srestaurants

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Photo by Brian Lee

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TSDOWNTOWN18-20

THE PEARL21-22

NORTH/NORTHWEST

23-24

NORTHEAST25-28

82ND29

SOUTHEAST30-36

SOUTHWEST37

Tommy Habetz,

co-owner of

Bunk Sandwiches,

digs into with

an Oxtail Confit

sandwich

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w autentica: He opened the restaurant in 2006, but this year Oswaldo Bibiano clicked and soared with an ever-expanding Mexican repertoire that mingles the joyfully simple and the complex. Look for seafood cocktails, whole roasted fish, smoky black bean tortillas with guacamole and a lunchtime street-food menu full of surprising tacos. P25

w beast: Naomi Pomeroy’s carefully composed, meat-centric French home cooking unfolds in a choreographed evening of preset multiple courses in a tiny rock’ n’ roll bistro. The four-course brunch brings on things like crepes with maple-bourbon caramel and candy-glazed bacon. P26

w bunk sandwiches: Star chef Tommy Habetz left the swanky set last fall and set a new bar for the trend of the year: sandwiches. Seasonal ingredients heaped on bread is no longer enough. It’s about sandwiches as a raison d’être, layered with craft, imagination and quality. P30

w castagna/castagna cafe: The cafe consistently pumps out all the bistro foods you really want to eat: terrific steak frites, lovely salads, a swoon-worthy burger. Next door, the mother ship is an elegant, quiet repair for splurge-worthy cooking with a Euro-local imprint and one of Portland’s best wine lists. P32-33

w le pigeon: In a tiny space in a scruffy neighborhood, charismatic young chef Gabriel Rucker cooks highly original food from ideas that pop into his head, perhaps foie gras rhubarb pockets or Morocco-tinged salmon. The style is fun and funky, the tables are communal and the mostly French wine list is deeply sophisticated. P34

w navarre: Come here to eat food from a serious chef who cooks like a Frenchman in a cabin, pickling and preserving, butchering meat, turning it into sausage and pâté, whipping up pies and jams and making it all work with the fresh supplies at hand. The spirit is a family-run restaurant off the main street in Spain or France, one of those hidden treasures where only the locals eat. But it also feels very Portland: part food salon, part kitchen cabinet, all super farm fresh. P28

w nostrana: Chef-owner Cathy Whims leaves no doubt why she’s Portland’s own Italian food laureate. Her wood-fired cooking is super-fresh, stripped-down simple and evokes an impressive range of rustic Italian cooking at a high level. In a city that loves Italian cooking, no place else comes as close to the real deal. P35

w paley’s place: France meets Portland for a date at the farmers market at this house of graciousness. The best dishes sing of the Northwest’s lottery-winning access to fresh and wild ingredients and artisan goods, and pastry chef Lauren Fortgang has made her mark with beautifully crafted desserts. P23

w ping: As customers sit at the sleek counter inhaling pork bone tea, Vietnamese short ribs and black sesame ice cream under a striking light sculpture that evokes kimono sashes, Ping feels exciting: the most daring, challenging, intriguing restaurant to open in some time. And, at 6 months old, this new Chinatown venture co-owned by Pok Pok’s Andy Ricker is just getting going. P18

w pok pok: This cramped, outdoor-indoor world of Southeast Asian street food has an unbeatable strike zone for consistency, guts and glorious tastes from a repertoire of dishes rarely encountered outside of their home turf. The Vietnamese chicken wings, with their head-spinning spicy-sweet caramel glaze, the heady-juicy game hens, the lip-buzzing noodle bowls … they’re just a hint of the magic. P36

— KAREN BROOKS, DINING EDITOR

SOUTHEAST ASIAN SOUL, MEXICAN MAGIC AND — HALLELUJAH! — SANDWICHES. HERE ARE THE STANDOUTS

OF 2009, IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER:

The following writers and editors contributed to “Best Restaurants of 2009”: Karen Brooks, Grant Butler, Danielle Centoni, Teri Gelber, Shawn Levy, Christina Melander, Roger Porter, David Sarasohn, Shawn Vitt, Michael C. Zusman

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It has the soul of the 1917 Hung Far Low Building, the look of a Japanese drinking club and the green sensibility of indie Portland. It pays respect to Chinatown’s past but looks to the future with food, art and design from local cultures all over Asia, like you’d find today in modern-day Bangkok or Tokyo. But mostly, as customers sit at the sleek counter inhaling pork bone tea, Vietnamese short ribs and black sesame ice cream, Ping feels exciting: the most daring, challenging, intriguing restaurant to open in some time.

pingS o u t h e a s t

A s i a n

102 N.W. Fourth Ave.

503-229-7464 pingpdx.com

$-$$

RECOMMENDED: The menu draws significantly from Singapore and Malaysia, with some rare discoveries from China, like ju pa bao, a sublimely brined pork chop on a tiny, buttery bun. But don’t think Chinese-style or family-style eating. This is high-level snacking, à la drinking houses all over Asia. Plan to spend $20-$30 a person. Meet friends, have fun over drinks and eat some good food, perhaps pork collar with tangy-tart dipping sauce; skewers of spicy baby octopus; rice soup with pork meatballs, paired with super-heady salted duck egg salad; and kaipatam toast slathered with thick custard jam.

Phototography by Lee Emmert

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F r e n c h

CARAFE 200 S.W. Market St. 503-248-0004 $$

This feels like a real Parisian neighbor-hood bistro, doling out traditional dishes and well-selected wines. The butter-yellow room, furnished with the familiar catalog of Parisian cafe fixtures and zinc bar, is a cozy respite from the downtown hustle. At Carafe, French countryside cooking stays true to tradition, but because chef/owner Pascal Sauton is obsessive about his handpicked ingredients (Ayers Creek beans, Cattail Creek lamb.), the flavors are bright and alive. All the main courses stay under $25.

RECOMMENDED: Steak tartare, pork ril-lettes, mussels, frisée aux lardons, burger, steak frites with béarnaise, lamb merguez sandwich, profiteroles. French wines by the carafe are as easy to pay for as they are to drink. The nightly prix fixe is a great deal, offering three courses for $25.

N o r t h w e s t

CLYDE COMMON 1014 S.W. Stark St. 503-228-3333 clydecommon.com $$

With its Ace Hotel and Stumptown coffee neighbors, the urban-modern Clyde is posi-tioned right inside downtown’s epicenter of hip. Chic young locals and trendy out-of-towners commune over cocktails both reverent (a G&T with housemade tonic water, $8) and ironic (The Cold Shoulder, with gin, grapefruit and stone-pine liqueur, $9). With happy hour bargains twice a day ($3-$6), you can save your debit card for a spree at Johnny Sole nearby.

RECOMMENDED: Look for a hot eggplant and mozzarella grinder, a tasty burger and crisp fries with spicy harissa and cool crème fraîche for yin-yang dipping. The season-ally morphing menu is Eurocentric: a little English (fried pork shank with sherried mushrooms, $21), a little Italian (sweet-bread-stuffed ravioli, a must, $9/$15), a little French (crispy confit of lamb belly, $5), a little Scandinavian (a wooden platter bear-ing smoked trout salad and a frozen shot of aquavit).

N o r t h w e s t / F r e n c h

THE HEATHMAN 1001 S.W. Broadway 503-790-7752 heathmanrestaurantandbar.com $$-$$$

The Heathman not only offers Portland’s pre-eminent power breakfast — not too many places inquire solicitously how crisp you like your bacon — but also a new weekend brunch menu. The weekday menu carries all expected breakfast possibilities, as well as a thickly stuffed Dungeness crab omelet ($18.95) and French toast with banana and candied macadamias ($9.50), not to mention The Heathman’s long-time masterpiece: smoked salmon hash ($12.95). Now, on weekends, things get even more elaborate, with a separate sec-tion headed “Pig” that includes biscuits with apple/sausage gravy, pulled pork ($9.50) and a thick, citrus-smoked pork chop with eggs and seriously cheesy grits ($13.50), as well as a selection of breakfast breads (three for $5).

RECOMMENDED: This is still Portland’s power lunch headquarters, and at dinner it’s a center of Northwest/Continental cuisine, along with a 600-bottle wine list, popular bar and happy hour that runs 2 p.m. to clos-ing every day. Although longtime prominent chef Philippe Boulot now supervises the Multnomah Athletic Club kitchens, he still keeps a close eye on things in his new role as The Heathman’s culinary director.

N o r t h w e s t

HIGGINS 1239 S.W. Broadway 503-222-9070 higgins.ypguides.net $$$

With its Northwest sustainability theme and national reputation, Higgins has risen to Portland landmark status. For more than two decades, Greg Higgins pioneered connections with local growers and fisher-men, vegetarian options, seasonality and dishes you didn’t encounter elsewhere in town. While the dining room maintains an aura of upscale white-tablecloth cool — which never tilts into chilliness — the bar rejoices in an everybody-knows-your-name clubbiness fueled by a potent burger and house-cured pastrami.

RECOMMENDED: The menu (entrees $18-$36.50) always features local seafood from salmon to oysters, grilled or in stews or pastas. It also reflects Higgins’ fascination with curing his own pork (that’s him in the national magazine ads hoisting a pro-sciutto), from an elaborate charcuterie array for lunch or openers ($13.75) to an entree of whole pig (chop, rib, belly, crépinette, $27.50). Lately, Erin McBride is punching up the dessert offerings with new options such as warm streusel cake with maple ice cream and candied pecan syrup ($8). The beverage highlight is a carefully chosen list of Oregon wines, but you might get distracted by the huge beer list, including more Belgian beers than you’d find in Brussels.

Carafe Clyde Common

Photography by Mike Davis (left) and Randy L. Rasmussen (right)

20 ultimate NORTHWEST AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 09

D e l i

KENNY & ZUKE’S 1038 S.W. Stark St. 503-222-3354 kennyandzukes.com $

Kenny & Zuke’s is an eerily faithful simula-tion of a New York-style Jewish deli, from the physical size and feel of the menu, to the selection of sandwiches, sides and entrees, to the mustards and sodas for sale in the takeout area. The spin is that it’s all done Portland-style, with house-smoked meats and house-baked breads and microbrews on draft and a few other subtle hints that you’re in Oregon in the 21st century and not the Lower East Side 80 years ago.

EAT AND DRINK: Chopped liver with pickles, eggs and bagel chips ($9.75) is big enough for a meal, but you wouldn’t want to miss the smoky, moist pastrami, which comes in a sandwich of its own ($11.75) or in a very credible Reuben ($12.75). Peppery hints of Hungarian influence are found in the hearty chicken soup ($6.50 bowl/$3.75 cup) and the pot roast, served hot and open-faced on rye ($12.75). Don’t miss the potato latkes, fried to a crunch but fluffy inside ($7.75). Editor’s note: Freelance contributor Michael C. Zusman owns a minority interest in Kenny & Zuke’s.

E c l e c t i c

MOTHER’S BISTRO & BAR 212 S.W. Stark St. 503-464-1122$$

You go to a place called Mother’s for comfort, and comfort is what chef Lisa Schroeder’s flagship restaurant provides in abundance. Of a morning, the dining room feels light, airy and homey. The wake-up menu includes amply portioned plates of the expected: eggs and omelets and scrambles ($5.95-11.95), a wild salmon hash ($12.95), waffles, pan-cakes and a cornflake-crusted variation on challah French toast ($5.95-$7.95).

RECOMMENDED: For breakfast, try a frittata ($9.95) or the Southwest breakfast staple known as migas: eggs scrambled with tortillas, cheese, onions and peppers. Mother’s also offers one of the most extensive lunch, dinner, bar and late-night menus in town. Reliables include a massive Cobb salad ($10.95), matzo ball soup ($5.95 for a bowl), warming chicken and dumplings ($14.95) and the rotating Mother of the Month menu, with a different real mom’s real recipes, from soup to dessert. ✴

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I t a l i a n

DOC 5519 N.E. 30th Ave. 503-946-8592 docpdx.com $$$

The excitement of young talent ani-mates this little gem. Walk inside the door and you’re right inside DOC’s kitchen, watching chef Greg Perrault toil with intense focus. His cooking is nominally Italian but with his own sense of combinations, and his hunt for local ingredients turns up more sur-prises than most “seasonal” menus in town. Perrault’s new sidekick is reason enough to snap to attention: Pastry

chef Kristen Murray, the one bright star at the expensive disaster that was Lucier, just signed on as sous-chef here. DOC (dee-oh-see) is young, ambitious and sophisticated. If this team jells and grows, DOC could be major.

RECOMMENDED: The small, a la carte menu changes daily but encourages two or three courses or the five-course tast-ing menu. Either way, plan to spend $40-$50 without wine. Vegetables, lamb and the cheese plate with homemade condiments stand out; risotto and gnoc-chi do not. Desserts are a must ($6-$9), recently a super-moist, super-limey cake with fruit compote and yogurt sorbet.

Little-known Italian wines, focused on bottles off the beaten strada, are opened nightly for glass pours, encouraging adventure.

P i z z a

DOVE VIVI 2727 N.E. Glisan St. 503-239-4444 dovevivipizza.com $

This humble eastside pizzeria is fir-ing up rich, deep pies with a crackling golden crust made with locally milled cornmeal and super-fresh, often organic toppings. Inspired by two of the best

In 2006, when Oswaldo Bibiano opened a cozy Mexican restaurant highlighting specialties from his native Guerrero, it was more curiosity than crave fest. Not any longer. Bibiano has developed confidence and creativity as a chef and restaurateur — and it shows in a menu set to satisfy both culinary adventurers and those for whom tacos and tamales define a Mexican meal. In addition to a diverse dinner menu and a delightful brunch, Bibiano has added an exciting new Mexican street-food lunch.

autenticaM e x i c a n

5507 N.E. 30th Ave.

503-287-7555 autenticaportland.com

$$

RECOMMENDED: At dinner, small plates are only $3-$9, though a full dinner for two, without alcohol, is likely to run $50-$60. Start with tortilla soup ($8), with avocado slices and mild queso fresco on top, then tuck in to the half chicken in a brick-red mole ($18) sporting a spectrum of savory flavors. Brunch brings abundant options at just over $10, including huevos rancheros ($12) with ham, queso fresco and red chile salsa. But the lunch menu is the sleeper, with Mexican-style sandwiches, simmered dishes and five tacos.

T O PPhoto by Randy L. Rasmussen

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deep-dishers down south — Vicolo in San Francisco and Zelo near Los Angeles — Dove Vivi’s Chicago meets California meets Portland pie is hard not to like. Even thin-crust addicts confess their admiration for this un-pizza.

RECOMMENDED: Big flavor combos reign here, including sweet corn, smoked moz-zarella and balsamic onions ($3.75 slice). Meat-eaters will appreciate the housemade sausage, pancetta and smoked ham; vegans can enjoy pies made with cashew cheese and tofu. A whole pizza ($20) — six slices — can serve three. Salads ($3.50-$6.75) are bold, fresh and big enough to go around the table. Save room for homemade zuccotto ($4.25), a chocolaty whipped cream cake to write home about.

W o o d f i r e

FIREHOUSE 711 N.E. Dekum St. 503-954-1702 firehousepdx.com $$

Firehouse is the kind of place you’d be happy to have in your neighborhood. In a deeply cool, early 20th-century firehouse — oh, you guessed — it carries a warmth and coziness that’s bolstered by a wood-burning oven, service that’s far more than neigh-borly and solid dishes under $18. Desserts by Gretchen Glatte, who spent five years at Wildwood, are outstanding.

RECOMMENDED: Start out with a couple of small plates like crisp fried baby arti-choke leaves or fried olives (both $4.50), while checking out the 10 wines by the glass ($6-$9), and some unexpected beers like the Iron City stubby ($2.50). People have differ-ent opinions on the pizzas ($10-$12), but few

The food at Beast is inspired by France, but the unvar-nished aesthetic is pure Portland. No tablecloths, no 500-bottle wine locker, just ’80s rock on the stereo and handsomely set communal seating. Chef and co-owner Naomi Pomeroy’s poetic dinner menus are daunting at first read — steak béarnaise with potatoes sautéed in duck fat on the heels of a stunning charcuterie plat-ter starring a foie gras bonbon and frothy chicken-liver mousse with candied bacon? All in one sitting? Part of Beast’s genius lies in trim portions that leave you craving one more bite and well-timed intervals between courses.RECOMMENDED: Whatever Pomeroy puts on the plate, as you don’t get choices (or substitutions). The set menu changes weekly, $52 for six courses or an abbreviated version for $45. Of particular note: anything involving caramel or bacon; the incredibly lovely charcuterie sampler; poached fruit; savory shortbread.

T O P

beastE c l e c t i c

5425 N.E. 30th Ave.

503-841-6968 beastpdx.com

$$$

Photo by Randy L. Rasmussen

SOUTHEASTNORTHEAST

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would dispute the crisp, juicy, tangy rotisserie chicken ($14.50) or the wood-fired rockfish with roasted carrots ($15), which demon-strates that something can be both irresist-ible and good for you. And it’s hard not to like Glatte’s desserts, notably the varying flavors of crème brulée, the Meyer lemon torte and the espresso semifreddo (all $6).

W i n e b a r

KIR 22 N.E. Seventh Ave. 503-232-3063 kirwinebar.com $

This tiny gem of a wine bar brings a wel-come dose of joie de vivre to the east side. More Parisian than Portland, the intimate candlelit nook provides well-priced, mostly European wines and simple, tasty snacks. Owner-cook Amalie Roberts puts her low-key, chic touch on every aspect of Kir, and her time abroad shows in a feel for Provençal flavors.

RECOMMENDED: The wine list is solid and inexpensive ($5-$10 a glass), but not huge. The mostly Med, seasonal menu cuts to the chase with wine-worthy snacks like suc-culent olives ($3), salt cod brandade ($6) and warm, honeyed almonds with smoky paprika ($3). Sit outside and glimpse the sun setting behind the Steel Bridge while sipping a bright, mineral-y rosé from the Loire ($7) or a Felluga pinot gris ($8), accompanied by steamy mussels in Pernod celery cream ($10) or a lovely chicory radish salad with farro and walnuts ($7).

W o o d f i r e

NED LUDD 3925 N.E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. 503-288-6900 nedluddpdx.com $$

The latest contender in Portland’s obses-sion with wood-fired cooking is Ned Ludd, a newish gastropub serving affordable gutsy Euro fare. Owners Ben Meyer and Jason French transformed a former piz-zeria, repurposing as much as possible, including the attractive brick fireplace (there’s no stove!) that dominates the open kitchen. The menu is well-rounded: snack-like options ($3-$10) to accompany wines and brews ($5-$8); appetizers and mains ($6-$15) that speak to the traditions of homey European cuisine.

RECOMMENDED: Start with some hearth-baked flatbread ($4) and a charcuterie board ($10) showcasing dreamy pork rillettes. Salads such as frisée, smoked trout, lemon cream and chives ($8) are attentively pre-pared. The warm plates — perhaps sweet potatoes with bacon and molasses ($7) or shepherd’s pie ($9) — are all good. Main dishes channel your grandmothers’ Euro-comfort food. Crispy duck leg, duck fat pota-toes and green olives ($13) or homemade Sicilian sausage with pork belly, greens and polenta ($15) are rich but not overwrought, especially with one of the delicious, unusual red wines ($6) from a small list.

C u b a n

PAMBICHE 2811 N.E. Glisan St. 503-233-0511 pambiche.com $

Pambiche gives you egg dishes galore, but in a form like nowhere else in town. And you don’t have to wait for the weekends (when lines are longest) to taste the hearty Cuban-Creole breakfast dishes, which run $7-$11. The walls are dark red, sea blue and jungle green, and if the tropical colors don’t wake you up, the beef hash with plantains

or shrimp with eggs and hot sauce should do the trick.

RECOMMENDED: At breakfast, come for Cuban-style French toast with sugar cane syrup, pimentos in a peppered egg scram-ble, and “tortillas” — Cuban omelets like soft frittatas (go for the chorizo and mush-rooms). Lunch and dinner menus vary only in price, hovering around $9 by day, $14 by night, with interesting sandwiches, sizzling pork dishes, prawns in a range of sauces, Caribbean empanadas and stews laden with saffron, raisins and almonds. Desserts, a Pambiche signature, include such Cubano favorites as banana rum cake with sweet piña colada “salsa.”

B a r b e c u e

PODNAH’S PIT 1469 N.E. Prescott St. 503-281-3700 podnahspit.com $

We don’t usually associate barbecue with breakfast. Then, over a year ago, Podnah pitmaster Rodney Muirhead opened his doors on weekend mornings and quietly started serving his top-notch Texas-style ’cue next to home fries and eggs instead of just coleslaw and potato salad. Muirhead takes his meats seriously, cooking over hardwood only — no charcoal, no short-cuts — and the rest of his little weekend breakfast menu is just as well-executed.

RECOMMENDED: Eight dishes to choose from, most around $7. The spicy migas ($7) comes as a delicious mess of eggs scrambled with strips of corn tortillas, peppers, onions and cheddar cheese, with plenty of rib-sticking beans and flour tortillas. At $6 the “Podnah’s Breakfast” is a steal, with two eggs your way, one perfect biscuit and a heap of downright decadent »

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