travel africa sampler

Good Safari Guide Awards Ngorongoro Crater Tunisia guide

The hunt for Angolas giant sable The Naro Limpopo National Park

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Malawis MajeteBack from the brink

Leopard spotsTracking elusive cats

Stirred, not shakenThe ride of your life

NamibiaGroundbreaking eco-tourism

Malawis MajeteBack from the brink

Leopard spotsTracking elusive cats

Stirred, not shakenThe ride of your life

NamibiaGroundbreaking eco-tourism

www.travelafricamag.com Edition 51 Summer 2010 3.95 US$12.99 ZAR 39.50

Good Safari Guide Awards Ngorongoro Crater Tunisia guide

The hunt for Angolas giant sable The Naro Limpopo National Park

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Travel Africa Spring 2010

The power of oneSome spectacles require a cast of millions. Others need only one. Just one.

Its a lone lammergeier cruising along a Simien Mountain ridge, the hushed notes from the wind flowing over its wings and sounding like a symphony in the quiet air. Its a single oryx walking the crest of a Namibian dune, its elongated shadow turning the rich, red sands into an abstract painters canvas. Its a

solitary wildebeest wandering across a Zambian plain, swimming in an endless ocean of greens and yellows.

Africas jagged peaks, sculpted deserts and rolling savannahs may be arresting in their own right, but its witnessing the individual relationships between land and animal that truly brings a sense of perspective and majesty to the continents epic landscapes. lBy Matt Phillips

Spring 2010 Travel Africa

This is AfricaD

ALE MO

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Would you like to share your unique Africa tales with other readers?

16 Travel Africa Spring 2010

Samantha Pinnell of KwaZulu-Natal writes in to tell us about a unique experience at Kruger, and to give credit where credit it is due.

Our family recently spent our annual holiday in the Kruger National Park, South Africa. One afternoon, approximately 3km outside of Pretoriuskop Rest Camp, we came across a pride of ve lionesses and noticed that the biggest female had a snare around her neck, which had cut badly into

IndabaNews, views, events and readers letters and stories all with Africa at heart

her skin. My husband phoned Pretoriuskop and was put through to the camp ranger to explain the situation. Within 10 minutes Ranger Dalton was on the scene, and he immediately contacted the veterinarians at Skukuza.

The vets arrived within 40 minutes, and after a quick

assessment of the situation they headed off to Pretoriuskop to acquire an open-topped 4WD. Using the vehicle as a moving platform, they darted the lioness and then scared off the rest of the pride. After the team had carried the sleeping lion on a stretcher to the roadside, we were invited to get out of our vehicles and to stand quietly around the lion, while the vets removed the snare, cleaned the wound and gave her an antibiotic.

Within ve minutes, the vets were gone and we were all back in our vehicles. Ranger Dalton and his assistant remained, guarding the lion until she regained consciousness. We would like to congratulate all the staff involved. The entire incident took less than an hour, and when we met Ranger Dalton the following day, he con rmed that the lioness had woken up and walked off absolutely undisturbed by the whole event. To Ranger Dalton, Kenneth Muchocho and all the assisting staff members, we were privileged to witness a unique situation and you deserve recognition for your ef ciency and professionalism.

readersafrican ex

perience

Hats off to SANParks

HOW MUCH DO YOU KNOW?

1 Which of northern Tanzanias parks has the largest elephant population?

2 What are solifugae?

3 What is the name of East Africas largest vulture?

4 Which bird leads people to wild beehives?

5 How can you tell the sex of a buffalo from its horns?

6 Which member of the African dog family is named after its rather large ears?

7 Where is Kenyas tea industry based?

8 What small mammals in Africa have gestation periods of up to eight months?

9 Which is the largest heron in Africa?

10 Where is the lowest point in Africa?

lowest point

ANSWERS

ARE FOUND

ON PAGE 27

www.travelafricamag.com Edition 50 Spring 2010 3.95 US$12.99 ZAR 39.50

Marrakechs best riads Africas football dreams Eritrea guide

Rhino conservation New take on the Okavango Elephant ambassador

Going in circlesMystifying monuments

SelousA babe in the woods

On the mapUganda makes its mark

MozambiqueFamily beach treats

GoldenmomentsTimeless inspiration

TA50 Cover (no spine).indd 122/3/10 10:58:06

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Marrakechs best riads Africas football dreams Eritrea guide

Rhino conservation New take on the Okavango Elephant ambassadorWIN A YEARSSUBSCRIPTION!

Would you like to share your unique Africa tales with other readers? Or would you like to be featured in My Africa? Write about your African travels, or answer our seven My Africa questions, and send to: 4 Rycote Lane Farm, Milton Common, Oxfordshire OX9 2NZ, United Kingdom or emailing [email protected] with

Campfi re Tales or My Africa in the subject line. If we publish your story well give youa one-year subscription (or extension) to Travel Africa magazine.

Cheetah (after presenting Big Cat Live, Im smitten!);

pangolin; lion; elephant (so wise, so knowing and its

easy to feel a connection with them); hyena (fascinating matriarchal society).

Spring 2010 Travel Africa 17

MYAFRICA

Andr SchoemanPilot/guide Skeleton Coast Safaris

My favourite footstep in Africa...

My fab fi ve...

Im still hoping to see...

... is at the top of my African travel wishlist

My best cultural experience in Africa...

My favourite activity in Africa...

Ian HempsteadTravel Africasubscriber

Kate SilvertonAcclaimed journalist and BBC presenter

My fi rst footstep in Africa...

Journal

Backpacking as a 17-year-old in Egypt. It felt terribly adventurous.

I adored Egyptians for their hospitality and

humour.

Victoria, Seychelles It was like arriving in paradise. Except I was exhausted after a dreadful fl ight on Air Seychelles!

In 1990 as a venturer in Zimbabwe for Operation Raleigh (now Raleigh International). It was an extraordinary experience and I made friends I still have today. Its a country that typifi es Africa to me, and I long to return.

Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, Cape Town. Its the most beautiful city, and the botanical gardens are a fantastic place for views, fl owers, birds and food!

A pangolin in the wild (this endangered species never gets suffi cient press for being the cutest, multi-skilled creature!).

After following drumming sounds on a densely forested Lake Kariba island, we stumbled upon a witchdoctor carrying out a ceremony. We were allowed to join

a very surreal experience!

Meeting Africans is tops, with safaris second and rafting third.

Exploring anywhere with my wife, Tracy; looking for birds, wildlife or simply enjoying the scenery.

Visiting isolated places in the African desert by plane to share the magnifi cent solitude with a like-minded few.

Interacting with the Ovahimba nomads along the Skeleton Coast and cushioning their introduction to the West through responsible tourism.

Angola. I witnessed it as a young child before the 1975 revolution. Today, it seems like an new adventure in waiting.

My distant cousin twice removed the mountain gorilla in its natural habitat.

Desert-adapted elephant and blue whale (just nine minutes apart on the Skeleton Coast); oryx (casting long shadows over delicate dunes); mountain zebra (thundering over a dusty desert plain); and lion.

It must be something about fi rst impressions My favourite step no matter where in Africa is into a small aircraft.

I have an early memory from the age of four I was stepping into Uncle Petes aeroplane on the Skeleton Coast. Seeing Africa from Gods perspective sealed my fate.

Eating apple crumble from the bakery at Solitaire, Namibia. Food is culture isnt it?

Botswana Id love to do a horseback safari and visit the Okavango Delta.

Gabon Id love to see the surfi ng hippos, but the whole country looks amazingly unspoilt.

Cape dwarf chameleon (spotted at Hermanus); carmine bee-eater (observed in the Okavango); ground hornbill (theyre just

weird!); African wild dog (seen near Serondela); leopard (always a privilege to see).

Pangolin I realise itll never happen, but I always look!

groundweird!); African

near Serondela);(always a privilege to see).

Pangolin

22 Travel Africa Summer 2010

CULTURE

>> 20-21 AUGUST: KURU SAN DANCE FESTIVAL, DKAR, BOTSWANACelebrating the traditional dance style of

Botswanas first people the San, Bushmen

or Basarwa this festival takes place at the

Kuru Development Trust in DKar, some

35km north of Ghanzi. Those taking part

have travelled across the Kalahari Desert,

not only from Botswana, but also Namibia

and South Africa. Once together in DKar,

they unite in song, dance and play. Although

the festivals main purpose is to foster the

Sans faith in their own traditional culture,

it is hoped that it also encourages respect

for different cultures through the sharing of

the local traditions.

Its time to enjoy...Here are our picks from the African calendar this quarter.

HISTORY

>> 27 SEPTEMBER: MESKEL, ETHIOPIAJoin Ethiopians in the centuries-old commemoration of the discovery of the True

Cross by Queen Eleni (Saint Helena). Reflecting the belief that she found the cross

in the 4th century by following the smoke of a massive bonfire, this celebration

sees a pyre, or demera, erected in most cities. After being topped with a cross and

laden with Meskel daisies, the demera is blessed before being lit. Crowds then

dance and sing around the rising flames. Afterwards, the faithful take charcoal

from the fires remains and mark their foreheads with the shape of a cross.

These celebrations are particularly grand in Addis Ababa, Gonder and Aksum.

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Summer 2010 Travel Africa 23Summer 2010 Travel Africa 23

WILDLIFE

>> 24-28 SEPTEMBER: HERMANUS WHALE FESTIVAL, HERMANUS, SOUTH AFRICATouted as the only enviro-arts festival in South Africa, the

Hermanus Whale Festival is held each year to celebrate the

return of southern right whales to the waters of Walker Bay.

Also in store for visitors are performances of music, comedy

and cabaret. For more details, visit www.whalefestival.co.za

MUSIC & THE ARTS

>> 16-24 JULY: FESTIVAL NATIONAL DES ARTS POPULAIRES, MARRAKECH, MOROCCOInitiated in 1959 by His Majesty King

Mohammed V, the Festival National

des Arts Populaires attracts singers,

dancers, musicians and poets from

across Morocco. While designed

to inspire Moroccos youth to

carry on age-old traditions, it

certainly delights those who

travel to Marrakech to take it all in.

For more information, visit

www.marrakechfestival.com

ACTIVITY

>> JULY-AUGUST: HIKING THE RWENZORIS, UGANDAAlthough a UNESCO World Heritage site for its outstanding

natural beauty and its biodiversity, the Rwenzori Mountains of

western Uganda are still one of Africas most underrated hiking

destinations. With ample annual rainfall Rwenzori translates

to rainmaker being the only dampener, those

interested in hiking its lush slopes should

take advantage of the decreased rainfall

in July and August to explore.

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African events

Tanzania


REACHING NEWHEIGHTS

When word of a snow-capped mountain on East Africas equatorial plains reached Europe in the mid-19th century, the public, and Londons Royal Geographic Society, scoffed at such an unbelievable notion. Although

Kilimanjaro is now one of Africas greatest icons, it must be said that the idea of it is no less astounding. Incredibly, the sense of disbelief in people typically reaches its zenith when they fi rst set eyes on the mighty mountain. Whether catching a glimpse of it on a clear day from Nairobi, some 200km away, or witnessing its glaciated summit suddenly materialise on a bed of clouds, appearing to hover almost fi ve kilometres above a golden savannah peppered with elephants, Kilimanjaro seems more fi t for a dream than any reality. Fitting then, that Africas tallest mountain plays a part in so many peoples dreams.

Each year, thousands of visitors attempt to fulfi l their lofty ambitions by climbing Kilimanjaro, Africas tallest mountain and one of the planets coveted Seven Summits. Although there is much working in their favour a mild climate, easily accessible slopes, an abundance of porters and guides, and no need for technical climbing abilities many dont make it to the top. Jeremy Gane, the man responsible for recently getting all 34 of the Comic Relief team to the summit, and someone with more than twenty Kili climbs to his name, is here to help you stand on the top of Africa.

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Summer 2009 Travel Africa 77

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THE GOALl

Preparation is critical to improving the chance of success on the mountain. The fact that 17 per cent of physically t climbers fall victim to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), compared to 44 per cent of those who are not in good shape, only underlines the importance of creating or maintaining a good level of tness before your rst step on Kilimanjaro.

Physical tness and readiness for the trek can be best achieved by working on the muscles that you will use on your climb. While legs are the obvious targets, your abdominal core is also key to avoiding back problems. As aerobic tness will help you cope with the thin air, cardiovascular workouts are also wise. If you go to a gym, ask one of the trainers to put

together a suitable programme for you; it should include simple core tness routines, the step machine and the treadmill with increasing inclines. Outside the gym, the best training for hill trekking is wait for it hill trekking, so get out and try walking for increasing lengths of time with a daypack weighing up to 8kg. Dont forget to spend time walking down hills as well.

The preparation is not just physical though, as the dif cult conditions on the trip will also test you mentally. If youre already over the hurdle of accepting a life of tents, long-drop toilets, lukewarm water for washing, and extreme conditions, which can range from baking hot to wet and freezing cold, you are on your way.

PRE-TRIP PREPARATIONSBody and mind

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Looming large over the East African savannah, and providing what is arguably the most spectacular sunrise venue in Africa, is the majestic summit of Kilimanjaro. Set at the uppermost reach of the Kobo crater rim, Uhuru Peak is not just the top of the mountain it is the top of the entire continent.

However, Kilimanjaro has much much more to offer you than just the ability to bag Africas highest summit. In a matter of days youll climb from the Equator to what feels like the Arctic, moving through grasslands, tropical rainforest, alpine meadows, moorland and desert uplands to snow and ice. Along the way you can trace the grand process of evolution in reverse: from the animals of the

forest to the rst stirrings of bacterial life on the summit.

And while climbing Kilimanjaro will inspire you to greater levels of physical and mental strength, your efforts on the mountain can also bene t Tanzanians. Much like your guide and enthusiastic porters help you achieve great heights, your tourist dollars help hundreds, both directly and indirectly, in the Tanzanian tourist industry.

For those of you wishing to reach Uhuru Peak for a charity of your choice, the rewards of your efforts are compounded even more.

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What to packMost operators provide items such as tents and cooking equipment, so youll most likely be required to only bring personal items. As conditions are so varied, pack for all weathers. Several operators also provide items such as sleeping bags, sleeping mats, down jackets and rain gear, so double check with them before your departure.

Among the essentials, you will need:

Large waterproof kitbag or rucksack (60-90litres)

Waterproof daypack (30-40litres)

Four-season sleeping bag with at least a -10 degrees Celsius rating

(A fl eece liner is a great idea)

Quality sleeping mat such as a Therm-a-Rest

(both for comfort and ground insulation)

Sturdy hiking boots with ankle support

(wear these in before your trip)

Waterproof windbreaker and trousers

Down jacket or insulated ski jacket

(essential for summit night)

Thermal underwear

Balaclava or insulated hat

Insulated gloves/mittens & thermal inner gloves

Sunhat, sun lotion and sunglasses

Insect repellent and malaria prophylactic

Water purifi cation fi lter or tablets

Basic fi rst aid kit (plasters, antiseptic,

support bandages, aspirin, Imodium,

lip balm etc)

Telescopic walking poles with rubber tips

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down jackets and rain gear, so double check with them before your departure.

Among the essentials, you will need:

Large waterproof kitbag or rucksack (60-90litres)

Waterproof daypack (30-40litres)

Four-season sleeping bag with at least a -10 degrees Celsius rating

(A fl eece liner is a great idea)

Quality sleeping mat such as a Therm-a-Rest

(both for comfort and ground insulation)

Sturdy hiking boots with ankle support

(wear these in before your trip)

Waterproof windbreaker and trousers

Down jacket or insulated ski jacket

(essential for summit night)

Balaclava or insulated hat

Insulated gloves/mittens & thermal inner gloves

Sunhat, sun lotion and sunglasses

Insect repellent and malaria prophylactic

Water purifi cation fi lter or tablets

Basic fi rst aid kit (plasters, antiseptic,

support bandages, aspirin, Imodium,

Telescopic walking poles with rubber tips

The tallest free-standing mountain in the world?Although many consider Kilimanjaro the tallest free-standing mountain on the planet

heck, theres a sign stating as much on the summit itself the volcanos claim to the

title is not clear-cut. Kilis grip on the moniker depends on a very subjective defi nition of

one word. The word? Near.

To determine the largest free-standing mountain, geographers measure the free-

standing rise of the summit over the lowest closed contour line that encircles, and stays

near, the summit. If a 50km radius is considered near, Kilimanjaro retains the title as

the lowest contour that makes the grade is 1395m, giving Kili a free-standing rise of

4500m. However, if 75km is used, Columbias Pico Cristbal Coln takes the prize with

a free-standing rise of 5000m. If the radius is expanded to 120km then Hawaiis Mauna

Kea volcano is top dog it rises over 10,203m from the bottom of the Pacifi c Ocean.

Finding the perfect operatorWith a seemingly endless array of tour operators offering Kilimanjaro experiences, there are some important questions you need to ask to ensure that your climb is as safe and enjoyable as possible.

Qualifi cations and experienceAsk about the qualifi cations, training and experience of their staff. Tanzanian Kilimanjaro guides must have Kilimanjaro National Park (KINAPA) qualifi cations. First aid qualifi cations are also important. Additional training in local fl ora and fauna, and in foreign languages is also a good indicator of quality service.

Choose local guides whenever possible. Tanzanian guides with good operators not only have far more experience on Kilimanjaro than those from overseas, but they are also a key part of the local economy, spreading their income around the greater community.

Dealing with an emergencyAsk the tour operator how they handle an emergency. They should have solid answers that deal with all aspects of a potential situation: evacuation from the mountain, communication facilities, which hospitals are used etc. Reassure yourself that you will be rescued safely and your family informed if you are injured or taken ill.

TransportCan transfers be organised safely and effi ciently from your point of arrival in Tanzania/Kenya to the pre-climb hotel, and then on to Kili the next day? What vehicles do they use? Are they insured for tour operation?

AcclimatisationAsk the tour operator how their itinerary will help you acclimatise to altitude.

Staff welfareDoes the company have a policy for staff welfare, payment and tipping? Are they a member or partner of an ethical tourism association such as the International Mountain Explorers Connection (IMEC)? Are they taking part in the IMECs Partnership for Responsible Travel and/or the Porter Assistance Project? Are clothes, food and tents provided for staff on Kilimanjaro? A well looked-after crew will look after you well.

EnvironmentHow does the climb company protect the environment? Ask about removal of rubbish, latrines, etc.

CostThere are plenty of cheap options for climbing Kilimanjaro, but they are not necessarily safe or successful, and the local staff may be poorly treated. Prices should include: transfers to and from the mountain, all park and rescue fees, full board on the climb, a a of at least three support staff to each climber, and quality camping equipment.

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he Laikipia Plateau of northern Kenya is

spectacularly wild. Commanding granite

kopjes glower down on a harsh, rolling

landscape in which ridge follows ridge, torn

by dramatic river gorges. This vast rugged land is the

setting for a number of Kenyas best-known bush homes,

substantial private ranches that o er visitors not only

access to some of the best wildlife and most inspiring

scenery in the entire country but the freedom to enjoy

a more personalised experience with a far greater range

of activities than is generally permitted in the national

parks and reserves.

We had come to Kenya with our three boys Ned (ten),

Kit (seven) and Jamie (fi ve) looking for adventure. For a

family, safaris provide amazing experiences and the chance

to explore together one of the most exciting environments

on earth. But planning a safari with young children poses

challenges: regardless of your childrens devotion to the

Discovery Channel, hours of bumping around on endless

wildlife drives can quickly pall. Standard safari schedules,

which begin before dawn and fi nish long after dark, may

produce tears of tiredness not joy.

Variety and fl exibility are the formula for success

and the bush homes we visited catered for this perfectly.

Children enjoy lots of stimulating activities tailored to

their interests and attention span; mealtimes fi t into

their normal regime, with food they at least recognise;

pools or rivers are nearby for them to cool o in;

parents can programme in needed downtime for rest

and realistic bedtimes.

Perched on a cli edge, Ol Malo House looks out over

towards the bald dome of Ol Donyo Lotim and on over the

Ewaso Nyiro valley to the distant jagged peak of Mount

Kenya on the far horizon. Built by owners Colin and Rocky

Francome and their son Andrew, Ol Malo House is a fl ight

of fantasy. With its individual rooms, quirky design, spiral

staircase and central tower, it is a kind of African Hogwarts.

On arrival, the children run ahead of us to choose

their room.

Thats my bed.

Thats mine!

Dad, come and look!

We sent John Warburton-Lee and his young family to Kenya in search of great child-friendly safari options. Here is his fi rst report, from the wilds of the Laikipia Plateau.

John Warburon-Lee is a travel writer and professional photographer. He fi rst went to Lewa 29 years ago on his gap year.

John Warburon-Lee is a travel writer John Warburon-Lee

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Clockwise from top: Ned and his new African idol, Andrew; Camels are a kids best friend; Its not what your children see on holiday its what they learn; Male kudu at Ol Malo; A room with a the view, Ol Malo; Meeting Tandala, the Francomes pet kudu

Ned has become Andrews shadow and bombards him with questions about ev erything from dung beetles to a bright green chameleon that we stumble upon


Following the noise down a tight spiral stairwell, we enter

the Cave Room and gawp. I am not sure if I am in Narnia or

Fred Flintstones House. Two colossal beds are cocooned in a

painted concrete tunnel with irregular rounded openings. In

the similarly fantastical bathroom a huge sunken bath could

accommodate an entire pod of hippos.

The boys race on. Exotic gardens lead to the swimming

pool a stunning infi nity pool that looks straight out over

the abyss to the wilderness beyond. Kit wanders round

mouth open. Not normally our most expressive child, he

yells to Louie, Mummy, I have arrived in paradise!

It is impossible not to agree.

Over tea, shared, to the boys delight, with the

Francomes pet kudu Tandala, Colin describes how the

familys unrelenting e ort over the past 18 years has

rehabilitated the once neglected and over-grazed landscape.

At fi rst, I couldnt think how we would ever do it, but it

was so beautiful I knew we had to try, said Colin.

We have arrived at the beginning of the long rains;

the land is uncharacteristically green and lush. Yellow

anisoppapus africanus fl owers blossom everywhere like

buttercups in an English meadow. Wildlife is plentiful. The

elfi n features of Guenthers dik dik seem to appear behind

every small shrub. We see many classic northern species:

oryx, gerenuk, reticulated gira e and the majestic spiral-

horned greater kudu after which Ol Malo is named. Herds of

elephant drift through the ranch at will.

The Francomes informal approach is perfect less safari

lodge and more family home. The children treat Colin as a

surrogate grandfather and Andrew bush-pilot, guide and

instigator of all things exciting and dangerous with

a reverence verging on worship.

A walk with Andrew is a relaxed a air. Slinging his

Winchester .458 over his shoulder, he leads us through the

bush with his border terrier and Labrador at heel. Along the

way Andrew points out a klipspringer poised daintily on

an implausibly steep rock. We scramble up a dry gulley and

into a small cave to fi nd a colony of bats, which fl it within

inches of our faces. Ned has become Andrews shadow and

bombards him with questions about everything from dung

beetles to a bright green chameleon that we stumble upon.

Just as the two smaller boys are fl agging, as if by magic,

Hussein Lachangai, Ol Malos charismatic head guide,

appears leading a train of fi ve saddled camels. Camels are

perfect for children controlled by Samburu handlers, they

are comfortable, require no riding skill and provide

a fantastic viewpoint. At our fl y-camp that night on the banks

of the Ewaso Nyiro River, the camel saddles make great bush

sofas from which we watch Andrew teaching the children to

cook over an open fi re.

The friendliness of the Samburu children and their eagerness to learn strikes a chord with our boys

Kenya


Days blur happily into a catalogue of spontaneous

adventures and visits to see the Ol Malo Trusts work

with the local Sumburu community. Andrew takes

us hurtling down rapids in the chocolate waters of

the Ewaso Nyiro on inner tubes whilst his girlfriend,

Chyulu, leads us on horse riding safaris to fi nd the

elephant herds. One afternoon we visit the Sampiripiri

Art Project. The Samburu teacher overseeing a group

of children painting shows our three boys how to

begin their own watercolours. Ten-year-old Pires Tiresi

Lochopoko paints red and blue gira e browsing from

green topped acacia trees watched by a blue rhino. His

brushstrokes are made with infi nite care and delicacy.

In 2000, after two years of protracted drought,

and with their livestock dying in alarming numbers,

the Samburu were literally starving. Having rapidly

realised that the soup kitchen they had set up was

unsustainable, Colin and Rockys daughter Julia started

teaching the local children to paint pictures of life as

they saw it, which were then sold to guests in the lodge

shop. Within weeks the children were supporting up to

200 families with their earnings from their pictures.

Regardless of the language barrier, our boys make

friends and interact with the Samburu children. Ned

shows pictures of England on his digital camera while

Jamie sits drawing with two little girls, one of whom

keeps surreptitiously stroking his blonde hair.

With its wildlife, awe-inspiring landscapes and adventure activities, Africa may just be the ultimate playground for kids; however, what children will remember most are their interactions with their African peers understanding their differences, and seeing their similarities will undoubtedly change their outlook on the world

74 Travel Africa Autumn 2009

What is the most dangerous animal in Africa? Its a question asked by thousands of people each year. Here, Mike Unwin puts each of the popular contenders for the title in the dock and contrasts Big Five yarns with sound natural history, and counters myths with statistics. Is our obsession with killer beasts more a refl ection on us than them?

Autumn 2009 Travel Africa 75

Wildlife

Starting with the prime suspect, then, lets get one thing straight: the hippo is a herbivore; it has no interest in eating us. Admittedly, it is not always as placid a beast as it may appear. Those massive incisors can do serious damage in territorial ghts, as the animals scarred anks bear witness. But hippos tend to direct their ire more towards one another than us. Most attacks on people occur in one of two circumstances. First, in the water, when a small boat gets too close, especially when young calves are present, or interrupts a con ict between two testosterone-fuelled rival males. Second, on the land and usually at night, when a hippos response to a

perceived threat is a headlong dash back to the safety of the nearest water in which case you really dont want to be standing in the way.

But hippos generally go out of their way to avoid people. After all, any con ict with us involves putting themselves at risk too. That accidents occur at all is due largely to the hippos habitat: being con ned to river systems, they have nowhere to go when people invade their space. Generally hippo and human rub along well enough together, but once in a while something goes wrong.

Did you know that the hippopotamus is the most dangerous animal in Africa?No doubt youve heard this one before. Africas third biggest land mammal has become the subject of Africas biggest safari clich. And its reputedly murderous ways are generally offered as a revelation, inviting our astonishment that this rotund grass-muncher should be anything other than friendly. What, them? we protest, as the beasts slumber in the shallows, all naked innocence and endearing comic grins.

You may have wondered, however, why this chilling fact so seldom comes with backup. There is, sadly, no denying it: hippos do occasionally kill people. But while stories of gruesome tragedies abound, any search for statistics produces wild discrepancies, with estimates of casualties varying from 250 per year to 33 per day. This is hardly surprising: most fatalities involve remote communities, where accurate data is as thin on the ground as adequate medical care.

The confusion is compounded when we examine the hippos main rivals for the coveted most dangerous crown. This generally comes down to the Big Five, enshrined in safari lore as the hunters most feared adversaries. And indeed, lions, leopards, rhinos, buffaloes and elephants, just like hippos, will all happily dispatch a human being in certain circumstances. But how often does this really happen? Again, it can be hard to separate fact from fi ction. And with the popular imagination fi red by sensational stories of tramplings, maulings and impalings, perhaps we should look more closely at just how dangerous these animals are.

TRAVEL AFRICAS CASE FILE

HIPPO HOMICIDE

Even bigger than the hippo, of course, is the elephant and many rangers contend that this is the animal for which they have the most respect. The issue here is more one of unpredictability than size: these intelligent animals are prone to mood swings. Cows with young calves and bulls in musth (a periodic state of sexual arousal) are the most volatile. Just when you feel youve got to know an elephant that comes around your house often, says Tanzania-based safari guide Craig Doria, it gets into a foul mood and tries to squash you. That famously powerful memory also plays a part: thus jumbos in areas with a history of persecution are, understandably, more jumpy. Tshokwane, one of the Krugers best-known tuskers, once had a run-in with a photographer who provoked a series of mock charges in search of the ultimate shot. Vehicles subsequently became targets whenever the great beast heard a camera motor drive.

But this doesnt mean that elephants generally

go out of their way to harm humans. Indeed in a tourist context attacks are extremely rare. Experience enables guides to interpret an elephants behaviour and act accordingly, with prudence always being the better part of valour.

shot. Vehicles subsequently became targets whenever shot. Vehicles subsequently became targets whenever shot. Vehicles subsequently became targets whenever shot. Vehicles subsequently became targets whenever shot. Vehicles subsequently became targets whenever shot. Vehicles subsequently became targets whenever shot. Vehicles subsequently became targets whenever shot. Vehicles subsequently became targets whenever shot. Vehicles subsequently became targets whenever shot. Vehicles subsequently became targets whenever shot. Vehicles subsequently became targets whenever shot. Vehicles subsequently became targets whenever shot. Vehicles subsequently became targets whenever shot. Vehicles subsequently became targets whenever shot. Vehicles subsequently became targets whenever shot. Vehicles subsequently became targets whenever the great beast heard a camera motor drive.the great beast heard a camera motor drive.the great beast heard a camera motor drive.the great beast heard a camera motor drive.the great beast heard a camera motor drive.the great beast heard a camera motor drive.the great beast heard a camera motor drive.

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JUMBO JEOPARDY

Wildlife

76 Travel Africa Autumn 2009

Did you know that the hippopotamus is the most dangerous animal in Africa?No doubt youve heard this one before. Africas third biggest land mammal has become the subject of Africas biggest safari clich. And its reputedly murderous ways are generally offered as a revelation, inviting our astonishment that this rotund grass-muncher should be anything other than friendly. What, them? we protest, as the beasts slumber in the shallows, all naked innocence and endearing comic grins.

You may have wondered, however, why this chilling fact so seldom comes with backup. There is, sadly, no denying it: hippos do occasionally kill people. But while stories of gruesome tragedies abound, any search for statistics produces wild discrepancies, with estimates of casualties varying from 250 per year to 33 per day. This is hardly surprising: most fatalities involve remote communities, where accurate data is as thin on the ground as adequate medical care.

The confusion is compounded when we examine the hippos main rivals for the coveted most dangerous crown. This generally comes down to the Big Five, enshrined in safari lore as the hunters most feared adversaries. And indeed, lions, leopards, rhinos, buffaloes and elephants, just like hippos, will all happily

TRAVEL AFRICAS CASE FILEWildlifeWildlife

Mike Unwin is a UK-based writer who has spent eight years in Africa. He writes books and articles for adults and children, and edits Travel Zambia magazine.

Did you know that the hippopotamus is the most dangerous animal in Africa?

Mike Unwin is a UK-based

UNWIN TA48

HIP 587-556

HIP 587-556

Wildlife

How often does this grisly fate befall the casual by-passer? Death by exploding toaster is about as likely


Buffalo enjoy a special place in bush horror stories. But you may notice that their supposedly deadly character traits, such as vicious and cunning, usually come with the caveat when wounded. My advice, then, is not to wound one. A large herd of buffalo, imposing as it may appear, will turn tail at the approach of people. Its only the solitary old bulls that you need worry about, as these cranky individuals if disturbed at close quarters may charge rst and ask questions later. Safari lore tells how a buffalo bent on your destruction will hunt you down with ruthless persistence. How often does this grisly fate befall the casual by-passer? Death by exploding toaster is about as likely.

Rhinos, by contrast with vengeful buffalo, are generally stereotyped as grumpy and stupid. But regardless of their personal failings, these armoured behemoths pose little threat today as there are simply so few of them. The smaller black rhino is generally held to be more irascible than the white. Where both species occur, however, guides warn that this assumption can breed a dangerous complacency around white rhinos and indeed the Kruger Parks only serious rhino incidents on walking trails have been with the larger species. In reality both prefer a quiet life. Excellent hearing and smell, but poor eyesight, means they are quick to perceive a threat but slow to identify it. If in doubt, they may charge but just as often away from the target as at it. The fearsome reputation of the black rhino was earned during the days of sport hunting in East Africa, when thousands were slaughtered. Some unfortunates did indeed end up on the wrong end of that lethal horn. Many, frankly, were asking for it.

THE HORNED ONES

unfortunates did indeed end up on the wrong end of that lethal horn. Many, frankly, were asking for it.

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RED IN TOOTH AND CLAW

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Predators present a different order of threat.

These are animals for which our species might

in theory be on the menu. Lions, largest of

Africas mammalian predators, have on occasion

turned man-eater. The best-known example

is the infamous man-eaters of Tsavo episode

of 1898, when local lions killed a reputed 135

workers during the construction of the Kenya-

Uganda railway. But such behaviour is very rare.

It occurs only in exceptional circumstances

often injury or old age that renders a lion

incapable of pursuing eeter prey, or human

disaster, such as war, that leaves people

vulnerable to lions where natural prey is scarce.

Generally the cats do their best to get out of our

way, as anyone who has encountered lions on

foot will testify. Attacks occur most often as a

result of chance collision, such as when people

inadvertently blunder into a female with cubs.

Even then, hostilities seldom extend further than

a mock charge.

Hunters have long credited the leopard with

almost supernatural cunning and ferocity. But

of course hunted animals are desperate ones.

Ordinarily these shy cats shun people. The tragic

death of young Kruger ranger Charles Swart in

1998, killed by a leopard during a tourist night

drive, caused shock partly because of its rarity.

Predictably, the culprit turned out to be old

and diseased, incapable of hunting its natural

prey. Interestingly, Africa has never witnessed

a sustained outbreak of man-eating to compare

with the extraordinary tales from India, in which

individual leopards such as the notorious man-

eater of Rudraprayag took hundreds of human

victims over sustained periods.



On the fringe of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Philip Briggs steps into the land of the Naro for an experience like no other.

Presence of gr eatness Philip Briggs has been hooked on African travel since he backpacked in East Africa in 1986. Hes authored ten Bradt guidebooks to African destinations and contributes regularly to Travel Africa magazine.

Presence of gr eatness Philip Briggs has been hooked on Philip Briggs has TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTAAATAT

Botswana


brooding purple dusk illuminates the wide-

open Kalahari sky. I feel a long way from

well, anywhere. And unsurprisingly so,

considering that the Grassland Safari Lodge

is the epitome of remoteness, sharing its eastern boundary

with the 52,800-square-kilometre Central Kalahari

Game Reserve the worlds second-largest game reserve,

covering an area greater than Lesotho and Swaziland

combined, yet practically untouched by tourism.

Its not unusual for Africas wildest corners to evoke this

sense of remoteness. But here my feeling of dislocation

from the everyday world possesses a second and more

singular dimension. Before me, a group of perhaps a

dozen Naro hunter-gatherers is engaged in a mimed

dance whose themes and rhythms resonate back through

goodness-knows-how-many millennia. Slight of build and

as their name, literally red people, implies bronze of

skin, the Naro circle around a fire, women chanting loudly

and clapping their hands, while the men and boys enact

a complex fable whose central figure holds two straight

sticks to the side of his head, mimicking the straight-

horned gemsbok (oryx).

This is a hunters dance, explains our host and

translator Neeltjie Bower, who grew up around the Naro,

and is one of the few outsiders to speak their strangely

haunting click-based language. First of all, the dancers

imitate a succession of different antelope, all of which

sensibly flee from their pursuers. Not so the gemsbok,

which bristles with aggression as it takes centre stage,

and turns to confront its pursuers, playing right into

their hands the dancers, now mimicking domestic dogs,

surround the confrontational antelope and bring it down,

providing their human masters with a veritable feast.

If youve travelled much in Africa, youve probably seen

something not too dissimilar elsewhere local dancers

putting on a brief display over sundowners. But the

performance at Grassland Safari Lodge feels different, for

several reasons. For one thing, this is no isolated post-safari

performance, but the climax of a long and fascinating day

spent in the company of the Naro. Furthermore, while

traditional pastoralist cultures remain widespread in

Africa, albeit with varying concessions to modernity, the

hunter-gatherer lifestyle has vanished almost entirely

over the past couple of centuries, to the extent that most

of its former practitioners and their languages are now

moribund or extinct.

A

On the fringe of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Philip Briggs steps into the land of the Naro for an experience like no other.

Presence of gr eatness e

ALL PHO

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Plan your tripGetting thereIts best to fl y into Johannesburg, from where Air Botswana (www.airbotswana.co.bw) fl ies to Maun, Gaborone, and Windhoek. From these destinations chartered fl ights can be arranged to the town of Ghanzi. Land transfers or charter fl ights make the link between Ghanzi and the Central Kalahari Game Reserve and Grassland Safari Lodge.

When to visitThe best time to visit the Central Kalahari is between November and March.

VisasMost tourists do not require visas to visit Botswana.

BooksLonely Planets Botswana & Namibia (2nd edition, 2010) by Matthew Firestone and Adam KarlinBradts Botswana (3rd edition, 2010) by Chris McIntyre

Find out moreBotswana Tourism Board (www.botswanatourism.co.bw)Grassland Safari Lodge (www.grasslandlodge.com)

The Naro, like the other hunter-gatherer peoples of

southern Africa, are frequently referred to by outsiders as

Bushmen or San, terms that are not only pejorative, but

which also negate their cultural and linguistic diversity. The

Naro language, for instance, though native to a mere 10,000

people in Botswanas Ghanzi District and some 4000 in

neighbouring parts of Namibia, is mutually unintelligible

with any of the other surviving click-based tongues

that form the loosely a liated Khoisan linguistic group

associated with the regions hunter-gatherers.

Its the fi rst part of the hunter-gatherer equation that

dominates modern perceptions of this ancient lifestyle,

but most such societies obtained about 80 per cent of their

nutrition from plants gathered as they moved nomadically

through the bush. And the Naro, as wed discovered earlier

in the day, are no exception. Over the course of a three-hour

bush walk with an amiable family party, led by the bearded

Qhigxau Qoma and his young sidekick Qoma Qoma,

comments and quips translated by Neeltjie, we have

the rare opportunity to see this seemingly monotonous

landscape of dry Kalahari scrub through the resourceful

eyes of its oldest human inhabitants.

Qhigxau Qoma stops next to a shrub he refers to as bi

(Raphionacme burkei), methodically digs out its football-

sized tuber, and scrapes o a large chunk of fi brous fl esh.

He passes the spongy mass to Qoma Qoma, who lifts it

above his head, crushes it in his fi st, and directs the bitter

milky liquid into his mouth with his thumb. We then

stop to look at a shepherds tree (Boscia albitrunca), whose

small berries make a sweet energy-boosting drink, and

whose roots are used to make the Naro equivalent of co ee.

Further on, we are shown an anonymous carrot-like root

that produces a blood-like liquid said to help with kidney

problems; a wild asparagus whose colourful wood is used

to make beaded necklaces; and the hardy creeper Tylosema

esculentum, whose oil rich marama beans taste a little like

chestnuts when roasted.

Neeltjie explains that while the Naro women are

largely responsible for gathering edible and medicinal

100 150miles500

240km160800

plants, the men take charge when it comes to locating

water and hunting. The velvet raisin-bush (Grewia fl ava)

is a particularly useful shrub for hunters, with fl exible

branches that make good bows and arrows, and a fi brous

bark used as rope to tie things together. It is also used to

make traps for kori bustards massive fl ying birds which,

as their Afrikaans name gompou (gum peacock) suggests, are

attracted to the gum, and which Qhigxau Qoma assures us

taste better even than guinea fowl.

After a morning of foraging, the afternoon is given

over to play, as the Naro enthusiastically demonstrate

some of their favourite games, all of which seem to be

ancient precursors of more contemporary pursuits such as

volleyball, javelin-throwing and skipping. One men-only

stick game entails whipping a straight but fl exible branch

hard into a mound of sand and grass, and letting it bounce

o into the bush, with the winner being the man whose

stick lands the farthest away. The melon game, by contrast,

is more collaborative than competitive, and for women

only the participants dance around in a circle clapping

hands, throwing a ball-shaped tsamma melon to each other,

with the catcher being required to freeze before she throws

it to another player, and the whole ensemble erupting into

giggles should she fail. Finally, everybody joins together for a

skipping game, chanting jump, jump, then, dig in, dig in

as the person skipping jumps lower and lower to the ground.

As evening descends, the days informal program draws

to a close, and I watch the hunting dance unfold, its every

nuance betraying the Naros intimate familiarity with

their natural surrounds. And I am struck by the realisation

that, until the relatively recent advent of agricultural,

pastoral and industrial societies, we human beings were

all hunter-gatherers. It is the lifestyle for which we evolved,

and that sustained us exclusively for perhaps 99 per cent

of our tenure on earth. Hence, perhaps, the deep sense

of resonance associated with spending time with some

of the last few hunter-gatherers left standing a cultural

experience as educational, enjoyable and devoid

of pomposity as any Ive had in Africa.

Opposite: In full fl ight, a Naro woman playing the melon game

Botswana


Its not unusual for Africas wildest corners to evoke this sense of remoteness. But here my feeling of dislocation from the everyday world possesses a second and more singular dimension


TTTTTTTTTTTTTTAATAT

Steve and Ann Toon are wildlife photographers and photojournalists with a specialist interest in conservation issues and southern Africa. Their fi rst book, Rhinos, was published in 2002 by Colin Baxter. Their latest book, Giraffes, is out later this year.

heres a storm coming! Ha ha ha.

This is Daryl. He has this way of

ending every sentence with a chuckle

it is as infectious as his enthusiasm for

everything. Dont get him started on mice and frogs

though. They are his two greatest passions, if you

dont count birds. He is the fi rst person weve met

who uses two bird identifi cation guidebooks at the

same time. Amazingly, the two books are identical.

He refers to one as my bedside copy. However, his

fervour for feathers is great for us we notched up

a dozen new birds yesterday; they were all hard-to-

recognise species that we would normally struggle

to fi nd, let alone identify.

Before his chuckle has even tailed o , Daryl

excitedly leaps onto the vehicle. Meanwhile,

we are rubbing the sleep from our eyes its dark

and the other guests at Mountain Lodge are still

snug in their beds.

Have you got your jersey, Bernard? Ha ha ha.

Hes at it again this time ribbing our tracker

because hes wrapped up against the morning chill.

Yet the day will be another hot and humid one. It

was the same yesterday, hence Daryls quip about

the impending storm. Its actually a running joke

now, because the rains have been forecast to hit

Maputaland for several days, yet the earth is still

bone dry and the grass is still bleached blond.

Although were keeping eyes peeled for two side-

striped jackals, which Daryl and Bernard spotted near

the airstrip recently, were on a di erent mission. This

isnt your ordinary early morning wildlife drive.

T

Veterans of the African bush, journalists Ann and Steve Toon join a specialist leopard-tracking safari in the heart of KwaZulu-Natal. Will it leave them seeing spots or licking their wounds?

spotsSeeing


South Africa

spotsSeeing

46 Travel Africa Summer 201046 Travel Africa Summer 2010

South Africa


South Africa


just like the Lord of the Rings, chuckles Daryl, pointing

out giant torchwood and tamboti trees and a 1000-

year-old Lebombo wattle. He shows us orchids that

grow on them, including, a pinhead orchid (Africas

smallest) and, fi ttingly, a leopard orchid. Thats stink-

bushwillow, he says. Some people say it smells like

perfume; others, obviously less impressed, believe its

odour resembles that of sweaty socks. Ha ha ha

Hear that? Daryl says suddenly. Its a Tonga red

squirrel. Theyre special to see. We fi nally spot the

squirrel launching itself from a low branch. This is a

fi rst. Weve been coming to South Africa for years and

didnt even know they existed.

Now holding the aerial high above his head, Daryl

starts listening for signals. He explains that the project

started in 2002 partly because leopard viewing on

the reserve was then so poor. The project has even

managed to change legislation in favour of leopards,

he says. This is a high rainfall area. The bush is thick

and theres an abundance of prey, so we should have

one of the highest densities in South Africa.

We hear a blip above the crackles on the receiver.

Thats a really good signal. Weve picked up one of

Ngayas grown-up cubs. He says its the one thats

more relaxed around vehicles and we start getting

excited. Barnard, whos been upfront on the trackers

seat, hushes us.

There are just the four of us, and were going at a

reasonable lick to make it to a particular part of the

reserve before sunrise. Our quarry is unlikely to hang

around if temperatures soar, so we head straight past

a herd of zebra, three beautiful nyala bulls and a lone

bu alo standing by a wallow

There has been an important leopard research

project at Phinda Private Game Reserve in South Africas

KwaZulu-Natal province for several years now. Were

on a specialist leopard-tracking safari that is linked to

this initiative. A number of the leopards in the project

are radio-collared, making it possible to track their

exact whereabouts on the reserve using telemetry.

And, if youre very lucky, you can enter their world,

even in extremely thick bush, to observe their natural

behaviour up close.

Daryl Dell, who is specialist ranger at Phinda, has

been trained to use the same equipment the researchers

use to track the leopards, and he feeds back information

to the projects sta about the sightings from the guided

leopard safaris. He explains that were now heading

for a part of the reserve where a female called Ngaya

traditionally hangs out. She has small cubs, but her

signal hasnt been picked up for a while so she may

have wandered o the reserve. Her previous cubs (two

18-month-old males) are also radio-collared and it is

them we are on the trail of today.

Weve been going for an hour, and already spiders

webs straddling the road have twice netted Steve

he is still picking o the strong, sticky strands from

his face and hair. Im mesmerised by an iridescent bug

thats hitched a ride with us and is now strolling around

on my camera bag.

At last we arrive in the sand forest, an extremely

rare habitat that is a special feature of the reserve. Its

Its just like the Lord of the Rings,

chuckles Daryl, pointing out giant

torchwood and tamboti trees and

a 1000-year-old Lebombo wattle

In 2002, when the Mun-Ya-Wana Leopard Project started in Phinda, leopard sightings were rare. Between 2000 and 2005, some 80 per cent of the CITES permits to hunt leopards in the region were granted to properties neighbouring or nearby the reserve. At the same time local cattle ranchers were applying for destruction permits to shoot problem leopards that were believed to be taking their livestock. It was pretty much open season.

Working hand in hand with the state wildlife body, and by improving communication

with local farmers, the project has succeeded in turning things around: the whole process of destruction permits has been reviewed; sport hunting has been curbed; and theres now only one CITES hunting permit each year for the area (out of fi ve for the whole of KwaZulu-Natal). Leopard numbers have gone up from just fi ve per hundred square kilometres to 13. Today as many as 50 use the reserve, and around 14 out of the 20 collared animals to date provide working signals for the researchers to learn more about their behaviour.

Leopard conservation

Top: Phinda specialist ranger Daryl Dell radiotracking leopardSecond from top: Making tracks, the team rush to a leopard hotspotSecond from bottom: Daryl Dell and tracker Bernard Mnguni looking for leopard spoorBottom: Spot the difference: its not all about leopards at Phinda; Ann and Steve witness a thrilling cheetah chase

Malawi

Malawi highlights

There is no denying the importance or allure of Lake Malawi. It is one of southern Africas greatest biological treasures, and its bounty of beaches and crystal clear bays make it a superb place to unwind. However, to appreciate

the country fully, you have to dig a little deeper. Philip Briggs, author of Bradts Malawi guidebook, is here to help you do just that.

ESSENTIAL AFRICA

Few countries are so strongly associated with a single geographical feature as Malawi. Little wonder, when you consider that Lake Malawi Africas third-largest lake, running along the Rift Valley oor for 585km accounts for more than 15 per cent of the countrys surface area. More still, the nations borders even seem to mimic the lakes serpentine shore.

But these points tell only half of the tale of Lake Malawis signi cance. Ask anybody who has been privileged to stand on one of its trademark sandy beaches, studded with ancient baobabs and tall palms, and gazed across its deep turquoise water, and they will simply tell you this: Lake Malawi is one of the most stunning places on earth.

And yet there is a great deal more to Malawi than its lakes beauty. Beneath the lakes surface there is the opportunity for divers and snorkellers to explore the worlds greatest freshwater showcase of piscine diversity an astonishing tally of around 1000 sh species, most not found anywhere else on earth. Scenically, the waterscapes of the lake are complemented by some truly spectacular montane scenery, ranging from the sheer Rift Valley escarpment that towers above the western shore to the isolated majesty of the Mulanje Massif and singular Nyika Plateau.

With regard to safaris, Malawi doesnt quite belong in the same premiership league as neighbouring Tanzania or Zambia. That said, reserves such as Liwonde, Vwaza Marsh, Majete and even Nyika offer some great game viewing in a thrillingly untrammelled setting, and the country is consistently rewarding when it comes to the smaller stuff: birds, antelope, monkeys, lizards and such.

Inevitably, tourism to Malawi centres on the great lake, which has acquired something of a legendary status in travel circles as the ultimate chill-out venue along the popular backpacking route between eastern and southern Africa. Today, the lakeshore is lined with dozens upon dozens of resorts and hotels not only the cheap n cheerful backpacker haunts for which it is renowned, but also posh colonial relicts and upmarket boutique resorts that complement the excellent network of exclusive tented camps and lodges that service the countrys mountainous retreats and game reserves.

Nyika National ParkExtending over 3134 square kilometres, Nyika is Malawis largest national park, protecting a spectacular plateau of undulating grassland incised by wooded gorges along the border with Zambia. The main attraction is the mountain scenery, which can be explored from the central Chelinda Lodge and Camp, either on foot, or by 4WD, or on horseback. There is some wildlife around, notably elephant, zebra, eland and leopard. Botanical highlights include 200 orchid species, which generally bloom over January and February. There are more than 400 bird species, including the striking wattled crane, Denhams bustard, mountain marsh widow and scarlet-tufted malachite sunbird.

Vwaza Marsh Wildlife ReserveOn the Zambian border, this underrated reserve, with elephant, buffalo, hippo and a wealth of birds, forms a convenient and rewarding stopover en route to Nyika. Kazuni Dam is the reserves game viewing showpiece and site of its only accommodation. Also present are smaller populations of lion, various brachystegia-associated antelope and rare groups of African wild dog.

Liwonde National ParkMalawis top game-viewing destination protects 550 square kilometres of classic African bush, which is hemmed in by the magisterially sluggish Shire River. This compelling waterway, fringed by tall palms and giant fi gs, has a presence comparable with the Nile below Murchison Falls or the Rufi ji as it runs through Selous, and is almost as densely populated with hippos and crocs. Back on terra fi rma, Liwonde supports large herds of elephant, buffalo, roan and sable antelope, introduced black rhino, and a fair selection of large predators, though lion sightings are very irregular. Game viewing activities centre on Mvuu Lodge, a superb tented camp with a perfect riverside location, and while game drives can be rewarding, its the hippo-dodging boat trips that linger in the memory. For birdwatchers, there are few more reliable sites for white-backed night heron and Pels fi shing owl, while Mvuu is a good place to seek out localised species such as brown-breasted barbet, Livingstones fl ycatcher, Boehms bee-eater and Lilians lovebird.

Chongoni rock art One for the adventurous, this cluster of 127 rock art sites, inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2006, is centred on the Chongoni Forest Reserve, close to the pretty highland town of Dedza. Attributed to a long-gone race of hunter-gatherers, the prehistoric art on the granite shelters of Chongoni is unusual in that it is also linked to extant Chewa female initiation rituals. Theres little in the way of a tourist infrastructure here, but the beautifully sited and budget friendly Chongoni Forestry Resthouse lies within walking distance of several fascinating sites.

MALAWI

MALAWI

MALAWI

MALAWI

Flying high, birlife in Malawi is prolifi c

The lake is the lifeblood of many, but its not the only site to visit

Malawis rural countryside has plenty of sights and smiles

PUM

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MALAWI

LivingstoniaFounded by Dr Robert Laws at Cape Maclear in 1875, the Livingstonia Mission was relocated to the escarpment in 1894 to escape the ravages of malaria associated with the lakeshore. Reached via a snaking road with 20 hairpin bends, Livingstonia offers fi ne views from the Rift Valley rim to the sparkling lakeshore 900m below. Today, one of the missions original stone buildings houses a museum. Outside town, Manchewe Falls crashes an impressive 125m over the escarpment to support a microhabitat of lush mist forest.

Mulanje MassifMalawis tallest mountain is essentially an overgrown version of the kopjes associated with parts of Zimbabwe an immense isolated granite massif that rises above the surrounding tea estates to a lofty 3002m peak. There are some lovely walking trails in the forested slopes, while serious hikers face the countrys greatest montane challenge in the form of the steep, all-day ascent to the 650 square kilometre plateau. The top is serviced by nine mountain huts and studded with more than a dozen climbable peaks.

Lake Malawi Malawis defi ning geographical feature and most important tourist attraction is lined with a seemingly endless succession of stunning sandy beaches hemmed in by the sheer walls of the Rift Valley. Indeed, Lake Malawi has enough going for it that many travellers spend weeks in the country without straying far from its idyllic shore. Highlights? Nkhata Bay is the favoured backpacker hangout, serviced by several excellent hostels as well as the worlds cheapest diving courses. For stunning scenery, relaxed kayaking, and snorkelling among a whirl of colourful cichlids, try Cape Maclear and the nearby Lake Malawi National Park (the latter inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its peerless piscine biodiversity). The beach resorts around Chintheche, Nkhotakhota and Senga Bay also warrant investigation, and the cruise on the notoriously tardy MV Ilala to time-warped Likoma Island ranks as one of Africas great public transport rides.

Shire ValleyEnclosed by Mozambique on three sides, the sweltering far south of Malawi is run though by the Shire River as it fl ows from Lake Malawi towards the Zambezi. The cataracts that blocked the way of Livingstones 1859 Zambezi expedition now lie within Majete Wildlife Reserve, which has been the subject of an exciting programme of reintroductions black rhino, elephant, buffalo and various antelope including the rare Liechtensteins hartebeest since it was taken over by the private African Parks Foundation in 2003. Theres also wildlife in Lengwe National Park, including samango monkey and the worlds most northerly population of nyala antelope, while the Elephant Marsh, though no longer populated by its pachydermal namesakes, is one of the best sites for waterbirds anywhere in south-central Africa.

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Zomba PlateauDominating the northern skyline above the former colonial capital of Zomba, this expansive plateau isnt comparable in scale to Mulanje or Nyika, but it offers plenty of opportunities for gentle rambling among cool undulating grassland interspersed with patches of pine plantation and indigenous forest. It also offers lovely views to the little-visited Lake Chilwa. In addition to bushbuck, klipspringer, baboon, samango monkey and even the occasional leopard, the plateau supports a rich birdlife.

Now that is a family portrait


OK, so youre no stranger to Africa or your camera. And over the years youve become quite good at taking pictures. But are your images portraits of people, birds and safari wildlife, landscape shots of sunsets, savannahs and mountains starting to look quite similar?

Why not try something different for a change? One great option to add some new life to your images is to think like an artist, and look for beauty in the unusual. Whether its the pattern of stripes on a zebra, the curving lines of a ower petal, or the abstract nature of creases around an elephants eye, the key is to make the composition appealing or intriguing.

Going for unusual or artistic shots can be a risky business, especially when your topic is a living animal. After all, if your experiment in shooting a dragon ys eye or a lions whiskers doesnt pan out, you may well have already lost your opportunity for a nice standard portrait.

But for those who dare, the rewards can be fantastic. Youll see your photo albums evolve and diversify. Youll begin noticing details in the world that you may not have noticed before. And, most importantly, youll have more fun taking photographs.


Working in artDale Morris offers advice on the rewards of low angle photography.

>> POWERFUL PATTERNSAlways keep an eye out for patterns, as they can make for interesting photographs. Patterns can be obvious (honeycombs) or more obscure (the symmetry within a group of standing fl amingos).

>> RESPLENDENT REFLECTIONSTheres something rather nice about the way light and form are refl ected from water, especially when there is symmetry involved. Alternatively, why not try taking a photo of only a refl ection (cutting out the main subject) you may fi nd that your results will be unusually pleasing.

>> BEWILDERING BACKGROUNDSBe on the lookout for unusual or plain backgrounds that can lend your image a canvas-like quality and help the subject stand out boldly. If doing macro shots, you can even bring along a selection of coloured cards or photographs that can be placed behind the subject, just like a theatrical backdrop.

Mantis mistake, Tsitsikamma National Park, South Africa. This mantis took up residence on my baby sons beach ball (which was on a deckchair with a striped towel draped over the back). Its likely he thought it was a fl ower, the favourite ambush site of mantis. Shot with a DSLR and a 90mm macro lens at f10 1/80th sec with fl ash

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Spring 2010 Travel Africa 127

>> AMAZING ABSTRACTSSometimes a photo is made interesting merely by the fact that the person looking at it does not have a clue what it is. As long as the composition is pleasing to the eye, an abstract image can work fantastically well, especially when displayed next to a standard picture of the subject. Clever use of shadows can also shed light on the true nature of the abstract image. Patterns, textures, eye-catching lines or the simplicity of a single pleasing shape can also give life to this type of photograph.

SEE A PHOTO TAKEN BY YOU!Do you have a photo that you think is worthy of a spot in Travel Africa? Email the digital image, along with a short description of when, where and how the image was captured (including camera details), to [email protected] with PHOTOSCHOOL in the subject line, or post a CD to: Editor, Travel Africa magazine 4 Rycote Lane Farm, Milton Common, Oxfordshire OX9 2NZ, United Kingdom. Slides are also accepted, though please send a self-addressed envelope with postage attached if youd like them returned.

Photoschool

* See more of Dales photography at www.geckoeye.com

Shes got legs, Tembe Elephant Park, South Africa. Although this image is fairly abstract it still manages to convey the story of a giraffe drinking at a watering hole. Be on the lookout for interesting lines, shapes and patterns while observing everyday African scenes. Shot with a DSLR with a 400mm lens at f4 1/400th sec

Mushroom magic, Nigerian rainforest. This image is all about patterns, but notice that the one protruding mushroom draws the eye to it and gives the photo some depth. Shot with a DSLR and a 90mm macro lens at f11 1/80th sec with an off shoe flash pointing up from below (to highlight the mushrooms gills)

A different delta, Okavango Delta, Botswana. While drifting about in a mokoro, I spotted these trees reflected in the water. By flipping the final image over, Ive created a unique take on the deltas watery environment. Shot with a DSLR and a 18mm wide-angle at f5.6 at 1/1250th sec


Pretty in pollenLadybird on a daisy, Addo Elephant National Park, South Africa. Photographed by Dale Morris.90mm dedicated macro lens; 1/250 sec at f9 with slow flash sync.

I love macro photography primarily because I love bugs. Looking through a macro lens makes you appreciate that there is a lot more to see in Africa than the Big Five. Initially, it was the beautiful flower (growing alongside a road just outside of Addo Elephant National Park) that caught my eye, but on closer inspection I discovered this delightful little ladybird at rest amongst the pollen. It was a cold morning, and I assume that the beetle was warming itself up under the rising sun before commencing its breakfast: a yummy infestation of aphids which was clustered just below.

Parting shot

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