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FIX ANY KIT DISASTER 8 ways to walk lighter

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The Lakes

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WAINWRIGHT SPECIAL

ScotlandStep up to big mountains

Wild camp the Wainwrights

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Lake District hill tick-list

214

GEAR SPECIAL

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GEAR SPECIAL

2010Camping

Guide

The hottest campsites

Family, basecamp and backpacking gear reviewed

How to cook a feast, go wild camping, stay snug...

PLUS TWO VANGO FAMILY

CAMPING SETS TO BE WONIn association with

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KIT DISASTER ways to walk lighter

Tents for big adventures

KIT DISASTER

Tents for big adventures

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6 trail July 2010

base campYour walking month starts here...

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July 2010 trail 7

New titanium stove takes a bow Page 11Explore the Ogwen Valley Page 12

Why bouldering is worth a crack Page 20

hot shot

Patagonia dreaming

“Conquerors of the useless: that’s what we were,” is how Yvon Chouinard, the Californian rock-climbing

blacksmith, described his 1968 adventure that took him and Doug Tompkins on a 5,000-mile journey from

California down the edge of South America to tackle Cerro Fitz Roy. The story of the two men climbing and surfing through the virgin territories was documented on film;

adventurer Jeff Johnson discovered it in 1999 and became obsessed with retracing their steps. The result is the blistering new movie 180 Degrees South: Conquerors

of the Useless, which has just premiered in the States. It weaves footage of Chouinard’s 1968 trip with Johnson’s own journey, which takes him from a shipwreck on Easter Island to the depths of Argentine Patagonia, via an ascent

of El Capitan (pictured), in the footsteps of his heroes. But the film is Chouinard’s show. Inspiring interviews

with both Tompkins and Chouinard, now 70, conducted in a hut in Patagonia as they await Johnson’s arrival,

cover Chouinard’s life’s work: revolutionising climbing equipment, founding clothing brand Patagonia, then

ploughing as much profit as possible into protecting the land that inspired its name. The film will be available

via Patagonia (www.patagonia.com) this summer.

Check out the trailer at www.lfto.com More on the movie at www.180south.com

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Explore...the Ogwen Valley

12 TRAIL July 2010

Idwal CottageMaking a natural base for any exploration, Idwal Cottage Youth Hostel provides the manifold comforts of a hostel in what can only be described as a location from hill-walking heaven – between the Glyders and Carneddau peaks in the crook of the Ogwen Valley.

Castell y GwyntMeaning ‘Castle of the Winds’, this dramatic, frost-shattered rock formation is a photogenic feature of the ridge between Glyder Fawr and Glyder Fach.

BASE CAMP

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On top of Y Gribin, looking out over three ‘llyns’.

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The CarneddauOn the north side of the Ogwen Valley, the bleak, windswept Carneddau stand in stark contrast to the craggy Glyders. This is Wales’ second highest mountain range, comprising Carnedd Dafydd, Carnedd Llewelyn and Pen yr Ole Wen among others.

TryfanTryfan is the most distinctive mountain of the Ogwen Valley. This free-standing hill is a favourite among scramblers, and on its summit the twin pinnacles of Adam and Eve present a formidable challenge. A leap between them is not hard, but it is scary, and tradition has it that those who make it ‘gain the freedom of Tryfan’. Also look out for the aptly-named Cannon Stone (above).

The Devil’s KitchenOne of the best examples of a glacial valley in Britain. ‘Twll Du’ – the original name for this steep slot – literally means ‘black hole’. It towers above Llyn Idwal, centrepiece of Cwm Idwal – which, due the unique nature of its geology and biodiversity, attracted Charles Darwin in 1831.

The GlydersLabyrinthine and riddled with scrambles, climbs and ridges, the Glyders comprise some of Snowdonia’s most interesting mountains, including Glyder Fawr, Glyder Fach, Y Garn, Tryfan and Elidir Fawr.

Idwal SlabsLying at an angle of around 50º, the Idwal Slabs were fi rst climbed in 1897 and have since introduced many novice climbers to the pursuit.

Llyn BochlwydAlso known as ‘Australia Lake’ on account of its shape, this is a popular spot for discreet wild camping in the shadow of the Y Gribin ridge – a popular Grade 1 ascent (or descent) of Glyder Fawr.

July 2010 TRAIL 13

SH663603 Start at the gate beneath the north ridge of Tryfan. There

are many different lines up this ridge, so scramble to suit, but be careful in the upper sections, and don’t scramble up anything you can’t scramble down. The summit is home to the pinnacles of Adam and Eve.

SH663593 Descend to the saddle between Tryfan and Glyder Fach,

then begin to climb Bristly Ridge. This is an involving Grade 1 scramble, with gullies and pinnacles providing the sport. Before long the grade relents and you approach the summit of Glyder Fach.

SH657583 From here head west across the plateau, passing Castell

y Gwynt en route. You can ascend to the summit of Glyder Fawr if you wish, before hugging the edge of the escarpment leading into Bwlch y Ddwy-Glyder to the cairn that marks the start of Y Gribin.

SH650582 Y Gribin is the Grade 1 spur that separates Cwm

Bochlwyd and Cwm Idwal. There are a few airy moves at the top as the ridge narrows in descent, then it broadens and becomes grassy. Bear right to cross the outfl ow of Llyn Bochlwyd then descend to the road.

ROUTE OF CHOICE

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BOCHLWYD HORSESHOE

6.4km/5 hoursA scrambly circuit encompassing the best terrain in the Glyders.

Map OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL17 Start/fi nish SH663603Ascent 940mTerrain rocky paths, Grade 1 scrambling and rough, indistinct terrain

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24 TRAIL July 2010

wise man once said: “Every keen fellwalker should have a pre-arranged night out amongst the mountains.

Time drags and the hours of darkness can be bitterly cold, but to be on the tops at dawn is a wonderful experience and much more than recompense for the temporary discomfort.”

That man was Alfred Wainwright, author of the iconic pictorial guides to the hills, in which he lovingly captures the profi le, ascents and descents of the Lake District’s fells. This June marks the 80th anniversary of his very fi rst hill-walk, on Orrest Head. Heeding the advice above, which he gave in his Book Four: The Southern Fells, Claire, Graham, Jeremy, Tom and I, headed to the Eskdale Valley to spend a couple of nights surrounded by the mountains, to explore Wainwright’s most beloved landscape.

WILD CAMP THE WAINWRIGHTSThis June it’s 80 years since Alfred Wainwright climbed his first Lakeland fell – an event that sparked a lifelong love affair with the hills. In homage to this legendary walker, Trail packs the tent and heads to the heart of the Lake District…Words Phoebe Smith and Claire MaxtedPhotographs Graham Thompson and Tom Bailey

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July 2010 TRAIL 25

Remembering Wainwright with a wild camp at Samson Stones,

beneath mighty Scafell Pike.

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46 TRAIL July 2010

Height (m) Name OS map(s) Grid ref Our rating AW’s comment Date done

978 Scafell Pike OL6 NY215072 ▲▲▲▲ “Harsh even savage... every inch a mountain...” 964 Scafell OL6 NY207065 ▲▲▲▲▲ “The greatest display of natural grandeur in the region...”949 Helvellyn OL5 NY342152 ▲▲▲▲ “Climbed more often than any other... a very friendly giant”931 Skiddaw OL4 NY261291 ▲▲▲ “Not the most impressive... but certainly one of the noblest”910 Great End OL6 NY227084 ▲▲▲▲▲ “Awe-inspiring in its massive strength... the true Lakeland”902 Bowfell OL6 NY245064 ▲▲▲▲▲ “Among the best half-dozen... commands admiration”899 Great Gable OL4/6 NY210103 ▲▲▲▲▲ “...Strong yet not sturdy, masculine yet graceful...”892 Pillar OL4 NY171121 ▲▲▲▲ “A series of craggy buttresses... a wild and chaotic scene...”891 Nethermost Pike OL5 NY344142 ▲▲▲ “Wild and lonely... here is solitude for here few men walk”890 Catstycam OL5 NY348158 ▲▲▲ “Nearly the perfect mountain form, with true simplicity...”885 Esk Pike OL6 NY237075 ▲▲▲▲ “Outstanding... south ridge with many abrupt crags...”883 Raise OL5 NY343174 ▲▲▲ “Eastern slopes pock-marked with the scars of industry”873 Fairfield OL5 NY358117 ▲▲▲▲ “Massive rocky buttresses, gloomy coves, fine daleheads.”868 Blencathra OL4/5 NY323277 ▲▲▲▲▲ “Compels attention... it is a mountaineer’s mountain...”865 Skiddaw Little Man OL4 NY267278 ▲▲▲ “Any walker... will be reminded of Kangchenjunga...”863 White Side OL5 NY338167 ▲▲ “Intimidating low crags... summit – a grassy mound”859 Crinkle Crags OL6 NY248049 ▲▲▲▲ “Lofty serrated ridge a succession of knobs and ridges”858 Dollywaggon Pike OL5 NY346131 ▲▲▲ “Eastern side a desolation of crag... boulder and scree”857 Great Dodd OL5 NY342205 ▲▲ “It offers easy and pleasant tramping but no excitements”852 Grasmoor OL4 NY175203 ▲▲▲ “Summit plateau remarkable for its luxurious mossy turf”843 Stybarrow Dodd OL5 NY343189 ▲ “Easy walking but wearisome for those who prefer rock”841 St Sunday Crag OL5 NY369134 ▲▲▲▲▲ “Its challenges are strong. Its rewards equally generous”841 Scoat Fell OL4 NY160113 ▲▲ “Few devotees yet tremendously wild and desolate terrain.”839 Eel Crag OL4 NY193203 ▲▲▲ “A narrowing crest from the east gives the best approach”828 High Street OL5 NY441111 ▲▲▲▲ “Its summit has been a highway, sports arena and racecourse”826 Red Pike, Wasdale OL4/6 NY165106 ▲▲▲ “A highlight is the traverse along the mile-long escarpment”822 Hart Crag OL5 NY369112 ▲▲ “A long declining ridge ... curiously deficient in water-courses”819 Steeple OL4 NY157117 ▲▲▲▲ “Commands the eye and quickens the pulse... a fine peak”806 High Stile OL4 NY168147 ▲▲▲▲ “Truly alpine characteristics, spectacularly sculptured...”803 Coniston Old Man OL6 SD272978 ▲▲▲▲ “Mutilated by quarries... has retained a dignified bearing”802 High Raise, Mardale OL5 NY448135 ▲▲▲ “Last fell going north with the characteristics of a mountain”802 Kirk Fell OL4/6 NY195105 ▲ “Plain and unattractive... a vast wall of bracken and grass”802 Swirl How OL6 NY272005 ▲▲▲▲ “Radiating splendid ridges from a peaked summit...”801 Green Gable OL 4/6 NY214107 ▲▲ “A sharp peaked summit... stepping stone to Great Gable”800 Lingmell OL6 NY209082 ▲▲▲ “Smooth outline to south and west, crags to north and east.”797 Haycock OL4/6 NY145107 ▲▲▲ “A giant in stature, dominating the head of the valley...”796 Brim Fell OL6 SD271986 ▲▲▲ “Mile-long ridge linking Swirl How and Coniston Old Man”792 Dove Crag OL5/7 NY374104 ▲▲▲▲▲ “Scarred and rugged... gnarled like the knuckles of a clenched fist”792 Rampsgill Head OL5 NY443128 ▲▲ “Some writers refer to it as Kidsty Pike, but this is incorrect”791 Grisedale Pike OL4 NY198225 ▲▲▲ “A little out of the way but the graceful peak cannot be ignored”789 Watson‘s Dodd OL5 NY335195 ▲▲▲ “Conforms to usual mountain form [but] no eastern flanks at all.”786 Great Carrs OL6 NY270009 ▲▲ “Curved like a scythe... it has little to arouse interest.”785 Allen Crags OL6 NY237085 ▲▲ “Grandly positioned overlooking Esk Hause...”784 Thornthwaite Crag OL5/7 NY431100 ▲▲▲▲ “Owing its fame to its tall pillar of stones a landmark for miles...”783 Glaramara OL4/6 NY247105 ▲▲▲ “The giant hollow scooped out of craggy mountain wall is Comb Gill”780 Kidsty Pike OL5 NY447126 ▲▲▲ “...distinctive summit which unmistakably identifies the fell...”

“My fi rst Wainwright was Helvellyn. I took 44 years to complete as that one (with my late father) was when I was 8, but I didn’t really start the rest for a further 10 years – so you could really say it took me 34 years!

“In the late nineties I realised I had been up over 50 per cent of them, and therefore instead of walking routes and fells I had done before I decided

I ’d do the remaining 100 or so and complete them all. My favourite one has to be Haystacks and the worst probably either Armboth Fell or High Tove because of the bogs. My last was Starling Dodd. I did this on my own as I wanted it to be very personal as Starling Dodd was the last fell Wainwright ascended to complete his writing of the Pictorial Guides.”

“All my rounds have been completed in the last 11 years since I came to live in the Lake District and each round has taken between three and 10 months depending on weather and other commitments.

“I usually go through each round in a fairly random order – the 5th round I climbed all 214 fells without returning to any until the

John Burland From the Wainwright SocietyHas completed the Wainwrights 19 times, now on her 20th round

Elizabeth Norton

Book One The Eastern Fells

Book Two The Far Eastern Fells

Book Three The Central Fells

Book Four The Southern Fells

Book Five The Northern Fells

Book Six The NW Fells

Book Seven The Western Fells

wainwright ticklist jul10 swps.indd 46 24/5/10 10:56:08

July 2010 TRAIL 47

778 Dow Crag OL6 SD263978 ▲▲▲▲▲ “Second only to Scafell Crag in the magnificence of its rock architecture”778 Harter Fell, Mardale OL5/7 NY459093 ▲▲▲▲ “One of the noblest mountain scenes in the district...”776 Red Screes OL7 NY396088 ▲▲▲ “The purest mountain form among the eastern fells...”773 Sail OL4 NY199203 ▲ “An absence of attractive or interesting features...”772 Wandope OL4 NY188197 ▲▲ “...too hidden to attract separate attention.”770 Grey Friar OL6 NY260003 ▲▲▲ “Stands aloof... a fine mountain of considerable bulk”770 Hopegill Head OL4 NY185221 ▲▲▲ “A high... ridge – leaps like a rainbow and arcs through the sky.”766 Great Rigg OL5/7 NY356104 ▲▲ “No topographical secrets or surprises... plain and uninteresting.”763 Caudale Moor OL5/7 NY418100 ▲▲▲ “Looks really impressive especially in snowy conditions...”763 Wetherlam OL6 NY288011 ▲▲▲▲ “Like a giant whale surfacing above waves of lesser hills...”762 High Raise, Langdale OL4/6 NY281095 ▲▲▲ “Lakeland’s most centrally situated fell... a tumultuous skyline.”762 Slight Side OL6 NY210050 ▲▲▲▲ “The summit is rocky and can be attained by a rough final scramble.”760 Mardale Ill Bell OL5/7 NY448101 ▲▲▲▲ “Appeals to all who aspire to a little, mild mountaineering.”757 Ill Bell OL7 NY436077 ▲▲▲▲▲ “Distinctive... its peaked shape making it easily identifiable.”756 Hart Side OL5 NY359197 ▲▲▲▲▲ “The steep flank overlooking Ullswater is beautifully wooded.”755 Red Pike, Buttermere OL4 NY160154 ▲▲▲ “Deservedly a popular climb... the summit a graceful cone.”753 Dale Head OL4 NY223153 ▲▲▲▲ “Beneath the grass a fusion of Skiddaw slates and volcanic rock.”746 Carl Side OL4 NY255281 ▲▲ “Unremarkable apart from a rash of white stones at 1,600ft.”744 High Crag OL4 NY181141 ▲▲▲▲ “Concedes nothing in grandeur and ruggedness...”739 The Knott OL5 NY437127 ▲▲ “A tremendous scree gully is The Knott’s one interesting feature.”737 Robinson OL4 NY202168 ▲▲ “Slopes rise blandly with nothing to exercise curiosity and imagination.”736 Harrison Stickle OL6 NY282074 ▲▲▲▲ “No mountain profile in Lakeland excites the attention more.”736 Seat Sandal OL5 NY344115 ▲▲▲ “Eastern face is a rough slope of shattered cliff and tumbled rock.”736 Sergeant Man OL6 NY286089 ▲▲▲ “Merely a rocky excrescence at the edge of a broad expanse.”734 Long Side OL4 NY248284 ▲▲▲▲▲ “A shapely pyramid poised above a rough, shadowed declivity.”730 Kentmere Pike OL7 NY465078 ▲▲▲▲▲ “The eastern flank falls precipitously into the jaws of Longsleddale.”727 Hindscarth OL4 NY215165 ▲▲▲ “A twin to Robinson. Both created in the same upheaval...”726 Clough Head OL5 NY334225 ▲▲▲ “An interesting fell for walkers, botanists and geologists...”726 Ullscarf OL4 NY292122 ▲▲▲ “A display of fierce crags, all the makings of a great mountain.”723 Thunacar Knott OL6 NY279080 ▲▲ “Thunacar Knott is completely unphotogenic...”720 Froswick OL7 NY435085 ▲▲▲ “It is cleft by a tremendous scree gully, Blue Gill...”718 Birkhouse Moor OL5 NY363160 ▲▲ “Ends abruptly above Ullswater, lower slopes beautifully wooded.”715 Brandreth OL4 NY215119 ▲▲▲ “Superb view of High Stile flanked by Ennerdale and Buttermere..”715 Lonscale Fell OL4 NY286271 ▲▲▲ “A gentle graceful curve... ends abruptly in a sharp peak...”713 Branstree OL5/7 NY478100 ▲▲▲ “Occupies a fine position at the head of three valleys...”710 Knott OL4 NY296330 ▲▲ “Long and narrow, nearly four miles from end to end...”709 Pike o’ Stickle OL6 NY274073 ▲▲▲▲ “Smooth soaring pyramid rising to a tapering thimble of rock...”707 Whiteside OL4 NY170219 ▲▲▲▲▲ “Three buttresses rise in convex slopes to a sharp summit ridge.”706 Yoke OL7 NY438067 ▲▲▲ “The Kentmere flank – a place of rocky excrescences and craggy tors.”705 Pike o’ Blisco OL6 NY272042 ▲▲▲▲ “Great character, shapeliness and a sturdy strength...”702 Bowscale Fell OL5 NY333305 ▲▲▲ “A fine eminence on the eastern perimeter of the group.”701 Cold Pike OL6 NY264035 ▲▲▲ “Cold Pike is a Crinkle Crags in miniature...”699 Gray Crag OL5 NY427118 ▲▲▲ “Lofty ridge... steep flanks... precipitous crags split by deep gullies”697 Caw Fell OL4/6 NY132110 ▲▲ “Many unnamed summits, many ridges and many streams...”697 Grey Knotts OL4 NY218126 ▲▲▲ “Geographically the first stepping stone to Great Gable from the north.”697 Pavey Ark OL6 NY285080 ▲▲▲▲▲ “In an area where crags and precipices abound here is the giant of them all.”696 Rest Dodd OL5 NY433137 ▲▲▲ “The east flank falls spectacularly in fans of colourful scree...”692 Seatallan OL6 NY140084 ▲▲ “A rocky slope above which the summit rises in easier gradients...”690 Great Calva OL4 NY291312 ▲▲▲ “Its unique function is as the watchtower of Skiddaw Forest...”690 Ullock Pike OL4 NY244288 ▲▲▲ “One of the simplest yet finest forms in Lakeland...”683 Bannerdale Crags OL5 NY336291 ▲▲▲ “To be appreciated fully should be approached from Mungrisdale...”680 Loft Crag OL6 NY277071 ▲▲▲ “Ranks behind the two Stickles, but a worthy member of the trinity.”675 Sheffield Pike OL5 NY369182 ▲▲▲ “Soars abruptly between the valleys of Glenridding and Glencoyne...”673 Bakestall OL4 NY266307 ▲▲▲ “Even the most diligent student of maps is not likely to have noticed this.”672 Loadpot Hill OL5 NY457181 ▲▲▲ “Gradients are easy with subsidiary hillocks arresting the decline...”672 Scar Crags OL4 NY208206 ▲▲ “A ragged edge of broken heathery crag throughout its length...”

“I started when I was two on 18 July 2007, climbing Sale Fell, and I fi nished on Sail, my namesake, on 17 October 2009. My favourite Wainwright is Scafell Pike because I am very proud of climbing the highest summit of England when I was four years old and still in kindergarten. I don’t have a worst one as I am always happy to be out on the hills in all weather, whichever hill it is!”

next round and the 12th I began with 7 consecutive days on the Southern Fells.

“There are many reasons why I continue to walk the Wainwrights. There is such great scenic variety within this relatively small area – the grassy fells of the north and the west contrast so much with the volcanic cliffs in the more southern fells. I love the changing seasons, the geology, plants and wild fl owers and to swim in the high tarns in the summer months!”

Youngest completer of the WainwrightsSail Chapman, aged 5

Height (m) Name OS map(s) Grid ref Our rating AW’s comment Date done

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54 TRAIL July 2010

Fancy a dip on your next Welsh trip?This summer, why not include a mountain lake in your walking? In his new title, Wild Swimming Record Book, pb The History Press, Adrian Tierney-Jones recommends the following…

Llyn Idwal Snowdonia SH6459“Mountain swimming at its very best can be enjoyed in this deep blue-coloured glacial lake just off the A5,” says Adrian. “A short hike up a path behind the Youth Hostel will bring you into Cwm Idwal, where the lake sits at the centre of what feels like a three-sided amphitheatre, surrounded by tall crags and rock slabs, dotted by vast spreads of scree; the majestic peak of Tryfan is to your left.” Stay here and walk up: Tryfan and the Glyders

Melynllyn Snowdonia SH7065“Like many of its kindred watery spirits in Snowdonia, this isolated ice-cold, blue-grey lake was formed during the Ice Age and its shoreline is dotted with boulders left by the passing of the glaciers,” says Adrian. “This is a cooling and refreshing climax to a diffi cult but rewarding hike, and on quiet (but warm!) days it might be conducive to a spot of discreet skinny-dipping!”Stay here and walk up: The Carneddau

Llyn Cau Snowdonia SH7112 “A beautiful glacial lake that lingers 400m below in the shadow of Cadair Idris,” says Adrian.”It’s a bit of a hike to get to this llyn, which means that if you are heading for it on a hot summer’s day then you will be glad of a cooling dip by the time you arrive.”Stay here and walk up: Cadair Idris

MOUNTAIN GENIUS SKILLS

WATER SOURCES

Chinese climber Oh Eun-Sun became the fi rst woman to summit all 14 peaks over 8000m, but there is now controversy over whether she reached Annapurna’s true top.

If you plan your walk around water sources, you can carry less and lighten your pack-weight. You just have to know where to fi nd them, as Winter Mountain Leader Becky Coles explains…

Check the source Pinpoint the source of the stream on your map. You are looking for water coming from a high, peaty upland area containing no habitation, farmland, bothies or popular wild campsites.

Avoid livestock Streams and rivers in areas densely populated with farm animals are not great sources, for obvious reasons.

Go high The higher up your water source, the better as it will have had less chance of contamination.

TUNES FOR DRIVING TO THE HILLS

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The Manchester Ramblerby Ewan MacColl

Tearjerkingly nostalgic song that namechecks numerous well-

known fell tops in a folk tribute to the Kinder Trespass of 1932.

Album Black and White

Ramble Onby Led Zeppelin

Zep’s softer side shows in this exhilarating, jangly acoustic

ballad. Actually about Hobbits. Album Led Zeppelin II

Lord Hereford’s Knob by Half Man Half Biscuit

Cheeky tale of a maiden’s woe atop the titular hill from Birkenhead hill-walking songsmiths HMHB.

Probably the only song featuring a full six-fi gure grid reference.

Album CSI Ambleside

Climbing Up (The Mountain Song)

by Paul RobesonCrooner Robeson warbles a

stirring song that positively reeks of the outdoors, as he climbs “until he holds the clouds in his hands.”Album The Best of Paul Robeson

Run to the Hillsby Iron Maiden

Tribal drums and a banshee chorus are thrilling when

hammering through Glen Coe – despite the song actually being

about the Sioux wars. Album The Number of the Beast

Use springs These are marked on the map and provide naturally fi ltered water through the rocks underneath. You cannot rely on these, though, especially during dry periods.

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Far left: how inviting does Llyn Idwal look?

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July 2010 TRAIL 55

8844.43m

5th

£48

www.cotswoldoutdoor.com

In association with

The height of Everest according to the latest Chinese claim, which

discounts the snow and ice

...of June sees the opening of Rock Over Climbing, a new wall in

Manchester. More details at www.rockoverclimbing.com

gets uni walking club members into the Student Safety Seminar,

9-10 Oct. See www.thebmc.co.uk

Classic pub magic # 7

Collect rain Again, you can’t rely on this method, but if it does rain overnight you could fi nd yourself with a full pan of water if you leave it outside, or partly under your tent so water drips down from the fl ysheet.

Melt snow This is a very safe water source, especially in winter, as long as you have a stove and plenty of fuel to melt the snow.

Plan ahead Walking without knowing where your next water is coming from is a risky business, so check the map so you know you will defi nitely fi nd water before you run out. For example, ridges, summits and limestone areas are places where water can be sparse.

Purifi cation To be 100 per cent sure that water is safe, treat it. Take two water bottles so you can be treating water in one and drinking safe water from the other. Options include boiling for 5-10 minutes, chlorine, fi ltration and UV light.

“On more awkward terrain,” says Steve Long, author of Hillwalking, “turning your body sideways to the slope allows the side of the boot to kick a larger platform.”

TIP

Pack a perfect summer daysack

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Rucksack 35 litres This is big enough for everything you need but not so large that it will fl ap around in the wind

Waterproof jacket and trousers The jacket’s a no-brainer, but for an extra 400g, wet and windy walking is so much warmer and drier with a pair of overtrousers.

Extra layer Air temperature cools at 1 deg C for every 100m you climb, so you might be glad of this on the summit.

Map and compass Absolutely essential, even if you’ve walked the route trillions of times before. It could be this time that the mist comes down and obscures your safe descent.

First aid kit Always carry blister plasters, a couple of bandages, headache pills and some emergency food. That slim chance that you will need them could come on your next walk, so be prepared.

Survival or bothy bag Vital if you have to keep an injured person warm or simply need some shelter for lunch.

Whistle Six sharp blasts with a one minute break before repeating alerts others to your distress. The reply is three blasts with the same pause.

Hydration bladder/water bottle You need at least 1.5 litres for a day of hill climbing, and ideally more in summer, but you may be able to fi ll up en route (see water sources article opposite).

Food pack Healthy, tasty, high-energy grub that is easy to eat on the hill, like bananas, malt loaf, sandwiches, cereal bars and sweets for morale-boosting treats.

Dry bags Even in summer it can rain, so stow all your kit in dry bags.

Headtorch plus spare batteries A high proportion of Mountain Rescue callouts are from people who forget that it gets dark at the end of the day and have not planned their route accordingly. A headtorch is a must.

Hat and gloves Your hands might be glad of insulation up high, plus you lose three quarters of your body heat through your head.

Enjoy summer walks in safety with the right gear. Below is Trail’s technical editor Graham Thompson’s defi nitive kit list...

We’ve all seen a magician running swords through an assistant in a box… well, here is a very low-rent variation.

Take a small Smarties box and remove the fl aps at the top and bottom, and then make two slits across the back of the box, one about quarter of the way from the bottom and another a quarter of the way from the top. Now pierce three holes in each side roughly level. Show the audience your ‘intact’ Smarties box and then insert your fi nger as shown. You can then insert cocktail sticks that seem magically to go right through your pinky. Now that’s magic…ish.

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TENTIPI ONYX 7 CP £585 +COMFORT FLOOR £198Traditional homely outdoor living

MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR TRANGO 4 £750Geodesic mountain stability

EASY CAMP BOSTON 400 £170Lowest price and very spacious

TERRA NOVA LASER SPACE 5 £750Lightweight yet very spacious

ON TEST...

66 TRAIL July 2010

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4-PERSON TENTS

Whether you’re a group of mates wild camping in the hills or a family heading to a campsite, there’s a four-person tent that’s ideal for you. We put fi ve to the test...

Words Graham Thompson Photographs Tom Bailey

Like most hardened backpackers, hill-walkers and mountaineers I used to think that big ‘family tents’ were uncool and not for me. While the families on campsites were setting up their four-

person tents with their barbecues, folding chairs and tables, I was whipping out a tiny one-person backpacking tent from my rucksack and ‘enjoying’ sitting in its cramped living area, which had just about enough space to store gear without everything getting drenched.

But if you’re not carrying your tent in a rucksack then why put up with a tiny space? Sharing your tent allows you to halve the weight, while splitting your equipment between a group of friends lets you quarter the load. Camping with mates, another couple or the whole family is lots of fun too, and a great way to experience the outdoors.

There are of course vast numbers of people who have already learnt that large tents are more comfortable. Indeed most manufacturers and outdoor shops sell more family tents than backpacking tents.

So, having swallowed my pride, it was reassuring to know that there is a vast choice of group tents available. If you want a tent that can withstand mountain weather, then you can get one. If you want a big tent at a low price, then you can get one. There are four-person tents for the traditionalist and there are four-person tents for travelling light.

So Trail has pulled together a cross-section of four-person tents to see which is best for different types of user. With prices from just £170 to over £780 there is something here for all budgets too. If you choose right you could transform your camping experience overnight. Just don’t call it a ‘family tent’ when talking to your backpacking buddies!

July 2010 TRAIL 67

VANGO NEVIS 400 £340Very spacious and competitively priced

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104 trail June 2010

kit catastrophes

When gear goes

The momenT your kiT dies is never welcome – buT whaT happens if ThaT momenT is really, really inconvenienT? from a snapped crampon on The eiger’s norTh face To a flying TenT on cho oyu: trail presenTs five Tales of when gear ToTally messed up – and explains how you can prevenT iT happening To you…Words simon ingram

r gW on

104 trail July 2010

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This is a random article, so I’m going to give it a random beginning. A quote to ponder, in fact. “Sometimes you have to pounce on things before dreams can touch them.” We’ll come back to it in a bit.It was raining – that sort of Cumbria-patented moisture that hangs fl uffi ly in the air yet still manages to comprehensively soak you. In my hand was a small piece of glistening paper I’d just pulled from a woolly

hat. I held it up to James. “Follow a stream and go where it goes,” he said.I raised my eyebrows, then held out another hat. In went James’s hand and out came

another damp piece of paper, which he held up to me.“Stop and start a conversation with everyone you pass.” An exchange of sage nods,

then the hats were carefully folded to protect their contents and stowed away. We shouldered our heavy packs and started to walk. The only detail I knew for sure about the route that would follow was that this little ritual would be a recurring theme.

This was a Spontaneous Hill-walk, you see. Come along. I can’t promise it’ll be good, but it’ll certainly be interesting.

June 2010 TRAIL 105

Who Suzy Madge Where Cho Oyu, Nepal�By lunchtime of the second day at Camp 1 (6200m) we had lost two tents and clearly the other twenty were making a bid for freedom. Indecisive as to whether to stay up or retreat, we stayed. Not a good decision. The second night was a fi ght for survival in the wind. An incredible clarity of thought came over

us as we considered how to avoid losing kit, tent and our lives in the wind, which was now over 100mph. We couldn’t hear each other talk, we simply shared an understanding of the gravity of the situation and acted in unison. As we snaked out of our tent in the pitch dark at 5am, the tents ripped from under our hips and legs and fl ew off into oblivion. Unable to stand, we slid along on our bellies, securing ourselves with ice axes until we reached a crevasse where we climbed in, sheltered and stashed our gear. Many people lost 30kg kit bags during the storm, so their expedition was over. At fi rst light we fl ed Camp 1 for the tranquillity of Advanced Base Camp. All 22 tents of our expedition were lost that night.”

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DEAD TENTMY KIT DIED!

July 2010 TRAIL 105

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TRAIL July 2010

2-DAYER

Keswick

Manchester

Middlesbrough

Kendal

Skipton

Sheffield

PeterboroughBirmingham

Derby

Betws-y-Coed

Pembroke

Brecon

Bristol

Plymouth

Poole

Bodmin

Minehead

BrightonSouthampton

Oxford

Berwick-upon-Tweed

Newcastle-upon-Tyne

EdinburghGlasgow

Aberdeen

Inverness

Fort William

Oban

Mallaig

Ullapool

Braemar

Cork

Waterford

Dublin

Belfast

Londonderry

Donegal

Hay-on-Wye

Llangollen

IngletonBenthamLancaster

DAY ONENG967210 Start at

the Kintail Outdoor Centre and follow the road over the bridge to the hamlet at Innis a’ Chrotha. As you follow the road, watch for the little sign to your right for the Falls of Glomach, which guides you onto the track that bypasses the farm buildings and takes you onto the wonderful track that contours around the side of Beinn Bhuidhe.

NG981222 The track splits at a signpost, left

for the Falls of Glomach and straight ahead for Gleann Choinneachain. This track rises above tumbling waters and below high crags to bring you to the meeting points of the rivers draining the two large corries above you.

NH003213 Cross the river, which at times of

thaw or heavy rain might be tricky and requires caution so detours upstream might be required, and follow the track as it zigzags up towards the Bealach an Sgairne.

NH006213 A stalkers’ path breaks right at

a small cairn; follow it as it meanders around the slopes of Meall a’ Bhealaich and into the corrie.

NH004210 The slopes to your left are tomorrow’s

descent route, but they can also be used in ascent

WEST HIGHLANDSTRAIL ROUTE1

FACTS

Distance day one 10km (6¼ miles); day two 6.5km (4 miles)Total ascent day one 1090m; day two 0mTime day one 5-6 hours; day two 2-3 hoursStart/fi nish NG967210Nearest town DornieTerrain good track, one water crossing; a good stalkers’ track leading steeply to open hillside, rough ridge and a big high-level plateau Maps Harvey British Mountain Map (1:40,000) Knoydart, OS Landranger (1:50,000) 33, OS Explorer 414 (1:25,000)Accommodation campsites at Morvich and Youth Hostels at Ratagan and Glen AffricPublic transport regular bus services north and south on A82. City Link Buses – tel. 0870 550 5050; Traveline Scotland – tel. 0871 200 2233; Kyle of Lochalsh train station is the nearest: Scotrail, www.scotrail.co.ukGuidebooks The North-West Highlands by D Broadhead, A Keith and T Maden, pb SMC; The Munros ed DJ Bennet and Rab Anderson, pb SMTTourist info Kyle of Lochalsh – tel. (01599) 534276

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depending on conditions. The stalkers’ path goes further than the OS Landranger map shows and ends in an ascending zigzag on the edge of the crags at the rim of the corrie. This last section becomes a very steep snow slope in winter and into spring, although it’s much shorter than an ascent lower down the track. Remember to pick up water on this ascent, as there’s none on the top unless there’s snow on the ground for you to melt.

NH010203 Reach the ridge above the fi ne

corrie and fi nd your fi rst views towards Glen Affric and Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan. Turn south and follow the ridge as it widens into a broad plateau. In fi ne weather this is a pleasant stroll with a rise of around 250m over the kilometre to the summit, but in poor visibility accurate navigation is vital to fi nd the safest path, and in winter a cornice (snow overhang) forms on the ridge to your left. As you climb

higher the Five Sisters of Kintail come into view, and Knoydart and beyond soon follow.

NH018192 The summit is a fi ne spot, at a junction

of ridges and standing tall among so many grand peaks. It has a curved stone windbreak next to its circular trig point, so it’s easy to recognise in foul weather. There’s plenty of space for a tent or bivvy bag, and once you’re pitched you have the choice of exploring some more by walking to Meall an Fhuarain Mhoir and back or just sitting with the stove on and waiting for the sun to set over the Cuillin on Skye. On day

two follow the route of ascent back down towards Meall a’ Bhealaich and past the point where you joined the ridge for around 500m.

DAY TWONH011208 Descend

on steep grass, picking a route around the many small outcrops and burns to reach the stalkers’ path where you turn right and follow the ascent route back to the start.

The mountain is yours for the night.

Nearest Cotswold store Glasgow

6 7

Trail Routes in association with Mapyx

A digital revolution in digital mapping for the outdoors.www.mapyx.com

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WILD CAMP

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LAKE DISTRICT TRAIL ROUTE 2

Back o’ SkiddawTo witness uninterrupted views

of the vast open skies above Lakeland at sunrise or sunset, the open rolling moorland that rises north of Skiddaw is ideally fashioned. It is affectionately known as ‘back o’ Skidda’, and these fells lack the towering peaks and deep valleys of the Central Fells, which could be regarded as a disadvantage – but for those in search of sunrise views the lack of towering peaks is a real benefi t as it mean there is little to obscure a clear view of the sky.

These fells are also ideally placed to gain an uninterrupted view to the distant Pennines. The highest point in this range is Cross Fell, and the sun rises over this peak in high summer when viewed from ‘back o’ Skiddaw’.

Most walkers head to the Lake District in

search of steep fells that rise above deep valleys, which means that the smoother ‘back o’ Skiddaw’ hills are also far less popular than other regions of the district. This makes them well-suited to the walker in search of solitude while camping wild.

But, more importantly, the smooth contours mean that there are plenty of locations to wild camp, including between High Pike and Great Lingy Fell.

If the weather is less than ideal for a bivvy or tent, then overnighters could scamper into the bothy on the top of these fells, which provides a slightly more comfortable shelter for the night.

This walk focuses on Knott, the highest point in the area that lies ‘back o’ Skiddaw’. It also includes a traverse of

the neighbouring peaks of Carrock Fell and Great Calva. The walk is ideal for starting the night before you want to camp and then ending after you have experienced a great night on the fell – and witnessed the splendour of a sunrise.

The hills that lie ‘back o’ Skiddaw’ are ideal for wild camping and watching the sunrise over the Pennines, says Graham Thompson.

Enjoying magical light and a splendid view on High Pike summit.

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Carrock Fell summit, looking south to Skiddaw.

2-DAYERCAMPING

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