trail magazine october 2013

Dream peak 10Cribyn: splendidly sculpted Brecon Beacon

Wild swimming on trial 12Open water: heatwave treat or death trap?

The Mountain Inquisition 14Squash Falconer, adventurer & quokka fan Outdoor kipping = OK! 16Why sleeping under the stars makes sense

High Lights: October 17Your month of mountains, sorted

Mountain Guide 61Survive a lightning storm; eat a better brekkie; get off the hills safely; magnetic mountains; make a comfy pillow PLUS will my dog cope?; introducing the Alps; how hard is our most remote mountain?

Out There 4Your best mountain moments, on camera

In Box 20 The world of hillwalking, according to you lot

Subscribe to Trail 44Hurry! You could get a watch worth £40 too

Behind the picture 18How one Victorian visualised high places Suilven 22Three man and a ‘boat’, in search of an icon Coniston Old Man 34A Lakeland favourite provides fi rst-time thrills

Secret Wales 46To Maesglase and Pumlumon, for solitude

The Roaches 56A unique and special corner of the Peak District

Dolomites 68Trail tests its mettle on Italian via ferrata

A DV E N T U R ESS K I L L SB A S E C A M P

p22

Y O U R T R A I L

TOM

BA

ILEY

OCTOBER 2013 TRAIL 9

Taking in ‘a � at,� ooded world’ from Suilven’s south side.TOM BAILEY

‘WHY WOULD YOU WANT TO DO THIS? SIMPLE: IT’S MIND-BLOWINGLY, GUT-WRENCHINGLY SPECTACULAR’ JUST ONE OF THE REASONS TO VISIT SUTHERLAND

BUY 6 MAGSGET 6 FREE WHEN YOU SUBSCRIBE!

WHERE THIS MONTH’S ISSUE WILL TAKE YOUCONTENTS

p44

Survive a lightning storm; eat a better

magnetic mountains; make a comfy will my dog cope?;

introducing the Alps; how hard is

p34

Newbie gets to grips with the hills.

contents oct13 swor.indd 8 02/09/2013 09:25

G E A RIncoming! 76The must-have hill kit that’s available soon

First test 78A new waterproof jacket – from Lowe Alpine!

Soft shell jackets 80Techy tops for typical UK mizzle and drizzle

Hill trousers 92Eight pairs of kecks for mountainous treks

Mountain watches 100It’s time you checked out these wrist gizmos

Lake District 111Route 1 Bowscale Fell Lake District 113Route 2 Grasmoor

Snowdonia 115Route 3 Carneddau

Brecon Beacons 117Route 4 Cwm Sere

NW Highlands 119Route 5 Cranstackie & Beinn Spionnaidh

Isle of Skye 121Route 6 The Storr

Loweswater 125Route 7 Low Fell & FellbarrowRoute 8 MellbreakRoute 9 Hen Comb, Gavel Fell, Blake Fell & Burnbank Fell

Ben Alder 131Route 10 Loch RannochRoute 11 Beinn Bheoil Route 12 Sgor Gaibhre & Carn Dearg

Lake District 137Route 13 Dovedale peaks

p46

R O U T ES

p68


WHERE THIS MONTH’S ISSUE WILL TAKE YOU

Far from the crowds in mid Wales.MATTHEW ROBERTS

Timepieces to suit all budgets.

Italian thrills for scaredy-cats.BEN WEEKS

The north face of Cribyn looms above a cloud inversion, seen from Pen y Fan.

© BANANA PANCAKE / AlAmy

10 Trail october 2013 october 2013 Trail 11

Your month of adventure starts here...base camp

dream peak oct13 swor.indd 16 02/09/2013 09:26


CRIBYNBRECON BEACONSAlthough it’s home to the lo� iest ground in southern Britain, the draw of the Brecon Beacons has never been its height. � is is a realm of outstanding mountainous beauty: an ancient sandstone kingdom of shapely summits, meandering ridgelines, wild moorlands, hidden valleys and curvaceous cli� s. Altitude junkies can take solace in the central peaks, where Pen y Fan and Corn Du soar close to the 900m mark; but the hidden jewel of the region lies 1km to the west. Connected to Pen y Fan by the serrated edge of Craig Cwm Sere, Cribyn boasts a north face so impressive you could easily imagine it in some alpine wilderness rather than tucked away in Wales. � e 795m summit can be approached from a variety of angles, but those looking for adventure should try the vertiginous path that cuts straight across the north face...

›› TURN TO PAGE 117DO IT THIS MONTH!

D R E A M P E A K

BRECON BEACONSBASE CAMP

dream peak oct13 swor.indd 17 02/09/2013 09:26


GO: North HighlandsDO: Peaks of a lifetime

T H E C R O S S I N G

Traversing three of Britain's most isolated peaks? Impossible, they said.Luckily, Trail had a plan just crazy enough to work.

22 TRAIL OCTOBER 2013

Suilven seen from the slopes of Cul Mor. Its true summit is the furthest left.

WORDS DAN ASPEL PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY

WORDS OLI REED PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY

ome extremely troubling news reached the Trail o� ce recently: apparently there are still people out there who have never walked up a mountain.

A� er we picked our jaws o� the ground and composed ourselves, we decided to do something about it. Rather than lambast and ridicule these peculiar creatures, we’ve taken it upon ourselves to show them exactly what they’ve been missing. A� er all, how can their lives be complete if they’ve never been blown o� their feet by hurricane-force winds or soaked to the skeleton by horizontal rain?


GO: Lake DistrictDO: Your fi rst mountain

GET STARTED

IN STYLELooking for the perfect mountain to ease a mate into hillwalking? Allow us to introduce The Old Man of Coniston.


S�

october 2013 Trail 35

Would you do this on your first ever mountain walk, like Ricky (front)?

It's not as tough as you might think...

(we wanted his knees to know they’d been up a mountain), an absorbing route of ascent, a slam-dunk of a view and – if our plucky hill virgin was up for it – the opportunity to extend the adventure from the top, rather than scarpering back down the same route. Bowfell was mentioned, as were ubiquitous favourites Blencathra and Helvellyn, before we settled on our summit. Often ignored by more serious walkers, the Old Man of Coniston is the standout attraction in the Lake District’s southernmost mountain range – and it was exactly what we were looking for.

At 803m the Old Man sits a lowly 31st on the Lake District’s height chart, but what it lacks in stature it more than makes up for in personality. These grand old slopes, formed over 400 million years ago from the remnants of volcanic fallout, bear the scars of centuries of mining and quarrying. The Coniston copper mines were once among the largest in Britain, plunging to vertical depths of 1700ft, and the mountain’s famous slate quarries dominate almost every angle of approach. As a result, a walk up The Old Man feels like you’re strolling through the pages of a history book; and with a wild mountain tarn sitting just below the

summit, hillsides brought to life by a diverse glut of wildlife and the option of a gentle scramble route to the summit, it’s pretty much a debutant’s dream.

We obviously weren’t going to let Dave and Ricky have all the fun themselves, so Team Trail met them on a blazing hot morning in the centre of Coniston. We weren’t sure what to expect from Ricky, but I think deep down photographer Tom and I were hoping for a wet-behind-the-ears rookie we could impress with our encyclopaedic mountain knowledge and years of ‘expertise’ in the hills. The reality, as ever, was somewhat different. Ricky turned out to be one of those infuriatingly athletic guys who probably ran the 100 metres in under 10 seconds when he was five years old, and an in-depth grilling as we began the steady ascent along Church Beck revealed that not only is he a top-notch rugby league player, but also an amateur boxer. At that point, I made a mental note to keep the Cumbrian jokes to a minimum.

As the real uphill section began our route zigzagged towards Colt Crag, which is where the Old Man began to reveal its true character. The decayed skeletons of derelict mine workings dominated every contour as we snaked

coniston

38 Trail october 2013

A direct assault on the Old Man from Coniston

brought us face to face with

relics from the mountain's rich

industrial history (and a bronze

frog).

directly into the heart of the mountain, making it feel more like a giant adventure playground than an arduous ascent. Towering spoil heaps, submerged train tracks, deserted buildings, collapsed pulley cranes and shadowy tunnel entrances littered the landscape, turning the slopes into an explorer’s dream. And, as it turned out, exploring was right up Ricky’s street. As we stopped for a drink by the entrance to one pitch-black tunnel, he flicked on his headtorch and announced his intention to investigate. I was starting to worry about the awkward call I’d have to make to the office if our protégé was swallowed up by the darkness; so as he ducked inside for a shufti I reminded Ricky of the signs warning walkers about the unsafe conditions within. To my relief we were all soon heading uphill again.

The next stop was the awesome Low Water, a pristine tarn situated at 550m, and an ideal cooling-off spot on a summer scorcher like this. As the three mountain veterans in our party debated the health and safety implications of swimming in its icy waters, our newbie promptly launched into an impressive swallow dive and plunged beneath the turquoise surface. “Do you think these guys are having us

on?” whispered Tom. “This can’t be Ricky’s first mountain. He’s probably an alpine guide...” It was hard to disagree.

From Low Water the tourist track corkscrews gently towards the summit – with the curved outline of the Coniston range unfolding behind – but since Ricky was still a little too far within his comfort zone for our liking, we raised the stakes. We swung south on a devious diversion and headed for a short, sharp scramble towards the summit. Would this finally slow our apprentice down? No chance. He powered through the jumble of grass and rock like a seasoned pro and was propped against the summit cairn with lunch in hand when we staggered up to join him.

At first I was concerned we’d made the day too easy for him, but then I remembered why we’d picked The Old Man. The popular ascent route from Coniston is well within the capabilities of anyone from schoolchildren to pensioners, but there are ample opportunities to mix things up and boost difficulty levels along the way. From the vibrant village at its base – complete with jazzy restaurants and internet cafés – to the mysterious mine shafts and crystal lakes on its ancient flanks, the Old Man feels like it was designed �

OctOber 2013 Trail 39

Clockwise from left: a lofty lunch perch, cooling off in Low Water, mesmerised by a mine shaft and closing in on Ricky's first summit.

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MINIADVENTURES

P E A K D I S T R I C T

THE ROACHES


IN A NUTSHELL Edgy, sweeping, magicDISTANCE 4.8km (3 miles)TIME 1 hourSTART/FINISH SK004621NEAREST TOWN Leek

In an oft overlooked corner of the Peak District, strange creatures from a faraway land hide among the hills, while super-humans walk on walls in de� ance of gravity’s authority. Welcome to The Roaches.

WORDS BEN WEEKS PHOTOGRAPHS BOB ATKINS

he name doesn’t do them justice. An uninspiring derivation of the French ‘les Roches’, � e Roaches translates as ‘� e Rocks’. But these rocks are special. � eir picturesque setting in the south-

west of the Peak District National Park is enough to recommend them alone. But over millennia the abrasive mechanics of the elements have carved gritstone outcrops into a surging wave of rock that threatens the farms and � elds below. � at said, from the road � e Roaches appear more ripples than

T


the roaches

‘a fracTured landscape slipping slowly beneaTh

The surface of The surrounding sereniTy...’


GO: ItalyDO: Via Ferrata

68 Trail october 2013

WORDS DAN ASPEL PHOTOGRAPHS BEN WEEKS

ITALIANMETTLE

DETECTORen Weeks is � ngering a live grenade. � is won’t end well. Still, at least it’s not the most extreme thing he’s done today...

… is the direction my thoughts were taking late on our � nal day in the Dolomites. How

we got there is a tale of mountain adventure I hope very much you’ll want to repeat. It involves scaling vertical cli� s and traversing hundred-metre chasms; but believe me when I say if you’re reading this, you can do it. Anyone can.

Via ferrata – or ‘iron way’, to be literal – is how we got there. It’s a form of sport climbing with a safety net. Ladders, � xed iron pegs and staple-like ‘stemples’ are drilled into place along suitable climbing routes and a wire is strung between them. You and I then come along wearing a helmet, harness and via ferrata kit – two leashed

You! Yes, you! Want to climb the sheerest faces in the Dolomites? Of course you do. And you can. Very easily.

Let Trail's resident scaredy-cat show you how...


B

�

Vertical thrills on Sandro Pertini, a top-rated via ferrata rising above Val Lunga near Selva.

92 Trail OCTOber 2013 OCTOber 2013 Trail 93

group test

What our scores meanTrail’s all for transparency and consistency in gear tests, so our scoring is done by a simple star grading system. The stars tot up to form an average star grade, to make the overall rating.

...whereas this offers the most bang for its buck.

= Men’s version

= Women’s version

This is awarded to the best in its class...

✱✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱ ✱

poorbelow average

averagegood performance

the best in its class

BEST VALUEMAGAZINE

BEST VALUEMAGAZINE

BEST VALUEMAGAZINE

BEST IN TESTMAGAZINE



OCTOber 2013 Trail 93

What we testedunderstanding trail's tests

Lowe Alpine Sirocco Pant £80

Rab torque Pant £80

Rohan StriderS £90

Outdoor Research cirque PantS £110

Mountain Hardwear SarPa Pant £130

Mountain Equipment trojan Pant £130

Fjällräven abiSko/nikka £135

Haglöfs rugged Mtn Pant £140

�

The verdiCT yOu Can TrusT

hilltrousersWith autumn showers and a dip in temperatures just around the corner, heading to the hills in the right pair of trousers is essential to ensure you are warm and comfortable...TesT Graham ThompsonPhOTOgraPhs Tom Bailey and Graham Thompson

not all trousers are the same, but it isn’t until you’re negotiating a ridge and navigating through mist to the summit of a mountain

that the benefits of quality kecks are realised. Whether it’s the restrictive movement when scrambling, the flapping ankle cuffs or the lack of pockets that annoy you, one thing is for sure: the best hill day can be spoilt by the wrong trousers.

For many years there was very little choice in legwear but today the choice is vast – and the result is that it can be difficult to know which trousers are right for you. Most hillwalkers will certainly agree that they want a pair that’s a good fit, being neither too baggy nor too

tight. But beyond that there are a myriad of designs available with some suiting the needs of the hillwalker better than others.

In this test we’ve focused on what hillwalkers will find ideal when bagging Munros, climbing the English or Welsh 3000ers or backpacking across Dartmoor. So we’re featuring trousers that offer stretch fabric, great pockets, a good cut and style for active walkers – and also a great price. We received trousers with prices ranging from £80 to £150; and while those with a higher price were certainly better, we’ve picked the best at various prices across the range to ensure there’s something here for everyone.

m

n

Part timepiece, part statement: Trail profi les eight horological hill companions...TEST SIMON INGRAM PHOTOGRAPHS TOM BAILEY

Mountain watchesA watch is more than just a means of telling the time. We have

phones that can do that now, or – if you’re very clever, or Tonto – the sun. And seeing as this is likely to be the one thing

you wear no matter what, if you’re an outdoors person your watch is a discreet way of letting the world know.

There isn’t really an upper limit when it comes to watches, either – and there’s as much snobbery attached to them as there is to wine and cars, so negotiating the fi ne line between practicality, quality and just paying through the nose requires careful navigation. So too does function: there are as many loyal followers of simple, tell-the-time mechanical jobs as there are for the most advanced GPS watch. Here we profi le some of the best options for the outdoors – from the do-one-thing analogue to the do-everything digital, via watches that are as at home at the dining table as they are on the hill.

BUYER’S GUIDE



Mountain watchesWATCHES

Garmin

Fenix £350When it comes to GPS watches, Garmin was

there fi rst – so you could expect its latest offering to be at the sharp edge of design

and innovation. The Fenix is a little bit more brutal-looking than the similarly loaded

Ambit2, but whether this is a good or bad thing depends entirely on personal taste, as both watches are

surprisingly pleasant to wear. Both are also extremely advanced outdoor

tools, with fully functional GPS systems, rechargeable batteries and a stack of

‘standard’ features like a barometer, altimeter, digital compass and heart rate monitor

compatibility. In terms of out-of-the-box intuitive usability and battery life (50 hours in GPS mode, versus 20 hours for the Suunto) as well as the ability to transfer routes and waypoints wirelessly, the Garmin has the edge; whereas the Suunto’s superior range of sports functions and the ability to take specialised apps make it a more versatile tool for multisport users.

Elliot Brown Canford £325British timepiece fl edglings Elliot Brown’s spanking new watches defi nitely hail from the school of chunky functionality. There’s an emphasis here on quality, and it’s been thought out to be tough: the movement is a Swiss-made affair featuring a triple-sealed crown tested to 20 atmospheres of pressure, making it ideal for both altitude and depth. There’s an end-of-battery-life indicator, an interior-rotating bezel that’s handy for timing, and a date indicator. Made of gunmetal, you get the sense that scuffs and duffs will only enhance its charm; and though it’s on the heavier side, it certainly makes a statement.

Breo Roam Elite £12If simplicity is your aim and you’re after a watch that’s the weight of a biro for less than the price of a DVD, then this is the place to look. Made for sports enthusiasts who want the minimum of fuss, Breo watches are perfect for those who want to go superlight, super-simple and super-cheap. They are waterproof and intrude minimally into your wrist profi le, and since Breo products have since been adopted by the fashion brigade, they’re apparently now super-cool, too.

When you want a watch to do everything – absolutely everything – then Suunto is probably your best bet. This is one of the new generation of satnav watches loaded up with technology, and this particular model features a staggering array of features, which – for this second-generation Ambit – can now be personalised by uploading sports ‘apps’ to the watch for your particular specialism. This is just as well, as what’s crammed into this wrist-top giant is utterly bewildering, and learning each function

and how to work it is one for the seriously dedicated detail afi cionado. It’s a

hell of a package, though: it

plugs into your computer for power and downloading using a nifty ‘snakebite’ charger, and has an optional heart rate monitor, plus a raft of features for tracking your time, speed, ascent and distance in a variety of scenarios (running, walking, outdoor swimming, indoor swimming, mountaineering, cycling, and more). It also features a fully functional basic GPS that tracks your progress and is capable of giving your accurate altitude and location to eight grid fi gures at the push of button. It’s a big watch, but isn’t heavy and is quite comfortable, with rounded edges and neat profi le.

Suunto Ambit2 HR £410

AT A GLANCE

PRICE £325TYPE analogue, batteryWEIGHT 126gWATER RESISTANCE 200mWEBSITE www.elliotbrown-watches.com

AT A GLANCE

PRICE £350 (heart rate monitor sold separately)TYPE digital, rechargeableWEIGHT 85gWATER RESISTANCE 100mWEBSITE www.garmin.com

AT A GLANCE

PRICE £12TYPE digital, batteryWEIGHT 12gWATER RESISTANCE 50mWEBSITE www.breo.co.uk

AT A GLANCE

PRICE £410 (includes heart rate monitor)TYPE digital, rechargeableWEIGHT 89gWATER RESISTANCE 100mWEBSITE www.suunto.com

�


Here’s a quiet corner of the Lake District surrounded by giant peaks and stupendous views, recommends Tim Major...

Looking down Crummock Water and Buttermere

from Mellbreak (route 8).Loweswater

TRANSPORTPublic transport options are limited but it’s possible to use a combination of train, bus and walking to get to Loweswater.Trains Mainline station at Penrith: National Rail Enquiries 08457 484950 Buses can be caught from Penrith railway station to Keswick or Cockermouth

(www.traveline.org.uk, 0871 200 2233). In the summer months, the Honister Rambler runs from Keswick and calls at Lorton and Buttermere (www.stagecoachbus.com). Also, the 949 or 263 services run between Cockermouth and Buttermere. You can then walk to Loweswater.

TIM

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Beneath the stunning fells of the north-western Lake District, and sandwiched between the tranquil shores of Crummock Water and a lake

that shares its name, is Loweswater – a magical location that boasts some of the best views in Lakeland and one of the fi nest pubs: the Kirkstile Inn. This is serious walking territory with access to the fells of Lorton and Whinlatter, as well as the high mountains that surround Buttermere and Crummock Water. To put it simply, this is what your boots were made for. But don’t worry; there’ll still be opportunity for a traditional Cumbrian ale at the end of each day...

Taxi Cockermouth Taxi Co (01900) 826649; Davies Taxi (Keswick) (01768) 772676

PUBS/GRUBKirkstile Inn (01900) 85219, www.kirkstile.com

ACCOMMODATIONKirkstile Inn (01900)

ROUTE 9 14.3km

85219, www.kirkstile.comThe Grange Country House Hotel (01946) 861211, www.thegrange-loweswater.co.uk

PRACTICALITIESStock up before you head over to Loweswater. The closest large towns are Cockermouth (7½ miles) and

Keswick (10½ miles), where you will fi nd cash machines, petrol, food shops, gear shops etc.

LOCAL INFOFind useful information at www.golakes.co.uk; www.lakedistrict.gov.uk and www.lakedistrict information.com

ROUTE 7 10.5km

ROUTE 8 11km

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Start Low Fell Fellbarrow Finish

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Low Fell & Fellbarrow you should aim for the small farm track and gate at the bottom. Once here, go through the gate and turn left onto the narrow road. Follow this as it skirts around the bottom of Darling Fell. Eventually, you will join the road above Loweswater.

NY128216 Be sure you look at the Pinfold,

an enclosure believed to date back to around 1655 (a National Trust sign explains its history). Then return along the main road, passing the village hall and turning right at the sign for the Kirkstile Inn.

1

126 Trail october 2013 october 2013 Trail 127

10.5km/6½ mileslake district7 route

always take a map out with you on the hill

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In association with

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Distance 10.5km (6½ miles)

Total ascent 368m

Time 3 hours

Start/finish Kirkstile Inn, Loweswater (NY141208)

Terrain very steep ascent onto Low Fell; otherwise relatively easy going with grassy tracks and a pleasant stroll back into Loweswater

Maps OS Landranger (1:50,000) 89; OS Explorer (1:25,000) OL4; Harvey Superwalker (1:25,000) Lakeland West

Manchester

Middlesbrough

Kendal

Skipton

Sheffield

PeterboroughBirmingham

Derby

Betws-y-Coed

Pembroke

Brecon

Bristol

Plymouth

Poole

Bodmin

Minehead

BrightonSouthampton

Oxford

Berwick-upon-Tweed

Newcastle-upon-Tyne

EdinburghGlasgow

Aberdeen

Inverness

Fort William

Oban

MallaigInverie

Shiel Bridge

Ullapool

Braemar

Killarney

TraleeDingle

KenmareCork

Waterford

Dublin

Belfast

Londonderry

Donegal

Hay-on-Wye

Llangollen

IngletonBentham

Lancaster

Stranraer

Ballantrae

Ayr

Dumfries

Portree

MULL

ISLE OF SKYE

ISLE OF LEWIS

Lairg

Thurso

Invergarry

Aviemore

Newton Stewart

Jedburgh

Leeds

York

Northallerton

Barmouth

RhylConway

Cardigan

Aberystwyth

SwanseaCardiff

Gloucester

Exeter

ISLE OF ARRAN

JURA

ISLAY

HARRIS

Bodelwyddan

Liverpool

Carlisle

Penrith

Windermere

Keswick

facts 3

Short walk,

big view

1

2

NY141208 Turn left out of the Kirkstile

Inn car park, passing the church on your right, and continue to the end of the road, turning left at the end. Follow the road until you see a sign for Thackthwaite and turn right up a narrow track. When you reach the entrance to a building (Crummock Water Cottages) turn left and follow the footpath alongside a house and through a gate. After the gate turn right and follow the track through to another gate that enters some woodland.

NY140216 Take the track through the

woodland and cross two further stiles and a stream. Then turn immediately left, taking a grassy track to the right of the stream. Begin the steep climb, following the faint track through the long grass. Make sure you look back to take in the increasingly epic views that unfold over Crummock Water. The path is not as straight as the one marked on an OS map and veers sharply up the grassy slope, eventually joining a fence. Follow the track to the top.

NY136223 It is worth going over the stile

on your left and heading to the end of the ridge (Bield on the map), where the view is spectacular. Now return to the stile and head north over the ridge path to the top of Low Fell. Then descend to another stile. Once over the stile, continue to follow the clear track over the ridge until you reach a swing gate above Watching Crag. Immediately after the

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3

4

5

gate, follow the track to your left that skirts under a grassy knoll on Sourfoot Fell. Eventually, this will lead you to a wall and some fencing. Follow this all the way to the summit of Fellbarrow.

NY132242 At the trig point, turn left along

a faint track and begin the descent over Mosser Fell. There is no clear path but

Darling Fell and Low Fell, from Loweswater.

trail magazine october 2013

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