topo herculane

Beta Version

Climbing Topo Guidev3.1

- draft -

Cerna Valey

(c) April 2006 by cosmo

NOTE: This document is for information only. The author takes no responsibility for possible accidents caused by using the information contained in this document. The information in this guide was provided byclimbers and the people who set up the routes in the area. www.romaniaclimb.com has been used for the list of the routes. There may be inaccuracies in some descriptions. Please forward any comments orsuggestions regarding this document to [email protected]

Beta Version

General information:

How to get there:

Accommodation:

Please:

Important:

Situated at the western end of the Transylvanian Alps is the Cerna Valley made attractive by the possibilities given by HerculaneSpa resort.

Since the beginning of the1980s climbers have been using this area for traditional and free climbing of grade 6 and above. At themoment there are more than 200 routes incorporating some of the walls in the area. They were set up mostly by climbers fromTimisoara and Severin or in preparation for the annual National Climbing Championships, Drobeta Cups or Herculane ClimbingOpen competitions.

The big variety of rocks and rock faces, from slopes to impressive overhangs, as well as the possibility of other extreme sportsmakes Herculane one of the most interesting climbing areas in Romania.

By train on the Lugoj Caransebes Orsova Turnu Severin route. By road on DN70 Caransebes Orsova or DN67D Targu Jiu BaiadeArama Baile Herculane.

There is a big choice of hotels and camping sites. Guest houses are also a good and cheap alternative. In case you don't have atent and you want to sleep outdoors there is shelter at Surplomba - Hercules area, Scorpioni I, Grota Haiducilor or on the terraceof Grota Haiducilor restaurant (down the steps from the car park situated on the side of the restaurant).

- Do not leave any rubbish behind- Do not destroy the flora or the fauna- Do not make any fires in the forest or at the climbing sites.- Do not remove any anchors or carabiners placed on the climbing routes.

- Cerna Valey is home to vipers. In spring time (April) they are especially active and can be seen at climbing sites.- Take care with the security of your vehicle or tent. There have been cases of theft.

Cerna Valey - Climbing Topo Guide v3.1 (c) April 2006 by cosmo

Beta Version

Top

Grass or small bush

Trees

Sunny crag

Shady crag

Rain protected crag

Symbols

Piton

Anchor

Key step

Belay in a multi pitch route

! Long distance between protections

# Isn't worth the effort

* Very interesting route

g Route with glued holds

c Route with chipped or drilled holds

o Almost the whole route is overhanging

s Almost the whole route is a slab

UIAA French USA Australia

5- 4a 5.5 155 4b 5.6 165+ 4c 5.7 176- 5a 5.8 186 5b 5.9 196+ 5c 5.10a 206+/7- 6a 5.10b7- 6a+ 5.10c 217 6b 5.10d7+ 6b+ 5.11a 227+/8- 6c 5.11b8- 6c+ 5.11c 238 7a 5.11d 248+ 7a+ 5.12a 258+/9- 7b 5.12b 269- 7b+ 5.12c 279 7c 5.12d9+ 7c+ 5.13a 289+/10- 8a 5.13b 2910- 8a+ 5.13c 3010 8b 5.13d 3110+ 8b+ 5.14a 3210+/11- 8c 5.14b11- 8c+ 5.14c

9a 5.14d

Grading Scales


Cerna Valey

Notations

p Project

Beta Version

Faleza

South - East, 25m.

1 Monopol 7+/8- 25m2 Thin ice 9- 12m,3 Ice Cube 9 22m4 Fiesta la strada 9 22m,5 El Chupacabra ? 22m,6 Smash 10- (?) 22m,7 Anaconda 8- 25m8 Sorel 7 22m9 Heavy fuel 8- 15m,10 Feet's crux 8+ 15m,11 Clandestino 7+ 22m,12 Sarpele de foc 8- 25m,

s,*

*c, p*

**s,*s,*

11, 12 (50m)10

98

7

6543

21

11

121-10 (50m)

Faleza

Scorpioni II

Scorpioni I

SurplombaHaiducilorCavern

RomanHotel

Baia deArama

DN67D

RomanBaileHerculane

Pecinisca

How to find crag: From the rear of the Hotel Roman climb throughthe forest for approximately 10 minutes. There is a path or via theScorpioni crag.

The wall is in the sun from early morning until evening. Climbing isbetter in spring and autumn. In general the walls are not wet orthey dry quickly. However, after long periods of rain there aresome routes which can take a long time to dry out.


Beta Version

Scorpioni

South - East, 35m.

1. Always ultra 7 23m,2. Knock me down 7- 23m,

**

3. Three bikes in the sky 7 35m,4. White fingers 7- 35m5. Tight shoes 6 35m6. Hei Gagarin 6- 35m7. Seven your desire 7 35m8. Chip no more 7+/8- 20m

c

Faleza

Scorpioni II

Scorpioni I


RomanHotel

Baia deArama

DN67D

RomanBaileHerculane

Pecinisca

2

1

3-8 (100m)

How to find crag: From the rear of Hotel Roman climb theright path for 50 m. For sector 1-2 climb the path leading toFaleza for 50 m and then take the path to the left along thewall for a further 10 m.


Beta Version

Roman

East, 40m

Faleza

Scorpioni II

Scorpioni I


RomanHotel

Baia deArama

DN67D

RomanBaileHerculane

Pecinisca

1. Occident 8+ 22m,2. Not Yet 10- 22m,3. Let me blow ya mind ? 22m,4. Gogu bate 9+/10- 22m,5. Ouerwood 9 22m,6. Haiducilor 4B, 7+/8- 3 l.c.7. New Age 8+ 38m8. Cross roads 7+ 30m9. ? 8- 30m10. Aurel Irimia 5A 3 l.c.11. Creasta haiducilor 4A, 6- 5 l.c.

!!, cp!, c!

1 2

3 4 5 67 8 910,11

6

1 23 4 567

8 910

56 7

Izvorul Munk

South, 30m

1. Osama 7+ 15m2. Bin Laden 7 15m3. Fly to Afganistan 6 15m4. Godak 8- 25m5. Marsul cel Lung 8+ 30m6. Calea Victoriei 9+ 28m7. Nuova Guardia 9- 28m8. Pentagon 7- 25m9. W.T.C.N. 7+ 10m10. W.T.C.S. 7 10m

How to find crag: From the end of Hercules Square (nearthe bridge where the kiosks are) climb the steps at the sideof the 69 Club (near Hotel Ferdinand). Follow the zig zagpath through the forest towards the Grota cu Aburi. Afterapproximately 300 m pass the intersection to FoisorulVerde. Bear right for another 150 m following the contourof the hill. Climb to the left following a small stream up tothe Izvorul Munk face. It takes approximately 25 minutesto walk from Hercules Square.

Except for Marsul Cel Lung all the routes are dry even inthe rainiest periods. This is the driest wall in the Herculanearea and the best climbing is from early spring to lateautumn.

How to find crag: F r o mthe Hotel Roman car parkfollow the road towards the7 Izvoare (7 Springs) forabout 100 m. The wall issituated at the start of thepath for Grota Haiducilor.

Izvorul Munk

Foisorul VerdeGrota cu Aburi

Water source:Just under route 7, Nuova Guardia.


Beta Version

1.Traseu lu Sasa 8- (?) 2 l.c.2.Finala 83 5A, 7+ 4 l.c.3.Surplomba alba 5A 4 l.c.4.Finala 88 5A, 8- 4 l.c.5.Finala 89 4B, 8- 4 l.c.6.Ochi verzi 8- ?7.Bilingel 7+/8- 45m8.Frontal 4B, 7- 4 l.c.9.Hotul inaripat 7 40m10.Copite 7+ 20m,11.Capastru 8 20m,12.Zabala 8+ 20m,13.Hercules 5A, 7+- 4 l.c.14.V.S.O.C. 8- 25m,15.Le petit noire 8 25m,16.Tiramisu 9- 25m,17.Suhaida 9+/10- 25m,18.No panic! 9- 25m,19.Vanatorul alpin 5B, 8+/9- 4 l.c.20.Try again 7+ 10m21.Ich will 7+/8- 10m22.Cocardas 8 10m,23.Chicken 9- 8m24.Liberty 8 8m,25.Lets go west 7+ 7m,

!!!

o,*o,*o,*o!

*

**

Surplomba

North - East, 120m.

26.Udele 7- 22m27.Pim Pim 6+ (?) 10m28.Maurul 8 20m29.Osul de peste 8+ 20m,30.No Problem baby in water 8- 20m,31.3 Lei 8+ 15m,32.Stone rider 8 15m,33.Sharky 9 15m,34.Cat fight 8+/9- (?) 15m,35.Marafetu ? 15m36.Pipe and love ? 10m37.Arista 10- 15m,

**o,*o,*o,*g,oppc,o

Faleza

Scorpioni II

Scorpioni I


RomanHotel

Baia deArama

DN67D

RomanBaileHerculane

Pecinisca

1-12

13-17

18

19 20

13

14

15

16 17

21 22 23 24 2526-37

100m

1-25 26 27 28 29 30

31

32 33 34 35

36 37How to find crag: From the Hotel Roman car park follow the road towards the 7 Izvoare (7Springs). After passing the Roman area continue for further 100 m as far as the second bench onthe left. From there climb through the forest for another 100 m along the wall.

The wall is in the sun in the morning. Some routes stay dry even when it rains. Climbing is betterduring summer and autumn.

The following routes, Try Again, Ich Hill,Cocardas, Chicken, Liberty and Let'sGo West were initially bouldering routes.Subsequently they were equipped for freeclimbing. At the moment the grades notedabove are for bouldering.


Beta Version1. Mona Lisa 6- 20m2. O doice Mark 7+/8- 22m3. Cabalo 7+ 22m4. Let's go diving 7+ 22m5. Aici fara cronometru 8- 17m6. Si fara competitie 7 17m7. Berceni 7- 20m8. Sexational 6 20m9. Elite 9 (?) 22m,10. Salajan 7 20m11. Crangas 7+/8- 20m12. Muck 6 15m13. Born bored 7+ 20m14. Homeless 8+ 20m

c

15. Road runner 8- 15m16. Deva 6 15m17. Titan 6 15m18. Bularga 8+ 17m19. ? ? 15m,20. Musquito's Crux 9+/10- 15m,21. Prof. Seracin 9+ 15m,22. Bijboc 9 15m,

pccc

141312

1-11 (150m)15-17(50m)

15

16 17

12-14 (50m)

18-22 (150m)

2221

2019

1815-17 (150m)

Magnolia

South - East, 25m

How to find crag: Follow the road from Herculaneto Baia de Arama (DN67D). After coming out ofHerculane (pass the Herculane town limits sign)keep going for another 1.5 km until you reach anisolated house on your left. At this point you leavethe main road and climb to your left through theforest following a small stream (sometimes driedup) for approximately 15 min until you reach therock face at the point were the routes 18-22 start.As an alternative route, after you leave the mainroad climb in zig zag the steep hill through the forestslightly to the left in relation to the stream and inabout 10 min you will arrive at the base of the routes1-5.

During summer the best climbing is in the afternoonwhen the wall is in shade. When it rains climbingcan be done in sector 18-22.

sector 1-11

sector 18-22

sector 12-17

Direction Baia de Arama

Direction Herculane

Single house


Beta Version

La coada lacului (Drobeta Cup 04)

North - West, 25m

1. Flopy 6+/7- 15m2. Tomy 6+ 15m3. Cautatorul 8 15m,4. Sevraj 8+/9- 17m,5. Drumul cenusii 8- 22m,6. Nirvana 7+ 20m,7. Tepes 7- 17m,8. Rugina 7 15m,9. Silence please! ? 17m10. Yo-yo ? 22m11. Fugi Nicolae fugi! ? 22m12. Neghinita 7 15m, *13. Ice age 7+ 15m,

******

*

9

10 1112 13

1-8 (100m)

12 3

4

5 6

7

8

9-13 (100m)

How to find crags: The access to this area is done from the BaileHerculane - Baia de Arama (DN67D) road.Coming from HerculaneSpa, when you reach a single house on the right side of the road aroundkm11 from Herculane leave the car, turn right, after the single houseand follow the path upwards. You'll reach sector 1-8 crag in about 20minutes.


Beta Version

La lac (HCO04-05) - Sector 1

North - West, 20m

1. Bobalna sfinx 6 20m2. Muieriis cave 5+/6- 20m3. Inox 7- 13m4. Cucu 8- 20m5. Face Off 9 17m6. Over 7- 17m7. Rover 7+ 17m8. Grover 7- 15m9. Pinus Nigra 7- 15m

7 89

12

3

56

4

How to find crags: The access to this area is done fromthe Baile Herculane - Baia de Arama (DN67D) road. Theclimb through the forest starts from the road at the km 9.Coming from Herculane Spa, when you reach the stoneindicating 9 km to Herculane leave the car, turn right andfollow the path upwards and you'll reach sector 1 crag inabout 15 minutes. From that spot you can either turn left forsectors 2, 3 and 4 crags or turn right (pass the toilet) and gofor another 10 min to find sectors 5 and 6 crags.

Water sources: There are 2 sources of water. Theyare both situated on the main road (DN67D), onegoing towards Baia de Arama and one goingtowards Baile Herculane (near the single house),each approximately 15 min (500m) away.

Best climbing is from spring to autumn. Someparts of the crags are in sun in the evening.

Sector 1Sector 2

Sector 3

Sector 4

Sector 5

Sector 6

Single house

DN67D Km9

DirectionHerculane

DirectionBaia de Arama

WC


Beta Version1. Pusca cu luneta 6- ?2. Tiganii in alerta 6+ ?

La lac - ector 2,3,4,5,6(HCO04-05) S

North - West, 25m

1. Ics 8+ 20m2. A complex 8- ?3. Think pink 9 ?4. Think fast 8+ ?5. Timberrr! 8- ?6. Ori-ori ori-ori 8- ?

1. Neo 7+/8- ?, o2. Mamba 8+/9- ?, o3. Girls allowed 8- ?, O

1. Lotus 8 20m2. Piciorul lui Pinochio 9- 20m3. Focus 9+ 23m4.Tricky 8- 20m5. Clabucoman 8+ 17m6. Bulbucoman ? 20m, p7. Free tuning ? 20m, p8. Gusteru parfumat 9+/10- 23m9. Bad habit 8+/9- 20m10. La FIXe 7- 20m11. Baluba 7+/8- 15m, s12. Cocostarcul japonez7+/8- 15m, s13. To the airport 6+ 10m, s14. Descopery 7 17m15. Equilibrium 9 23m16. King of the hill 10? 15m, p17. Licurici 10? 17m, p18. Tankball 7- ?19. Iron gates 6+ ?

1. K2 limacsi 5+/6- 45m

Sector 2

Sector 3

Sector 4

Sector 6

Sector 5

Sector 1Sector 2

Sector 3

Sector 4

Sector 5

Sector 6

Single house

DN67D Km9

DirectionHerculane


WC


Beta Version1 2

3 45

6

1

2 345 6

7 89

10

1

23

45

5

12

3

4

5

6

7

12

3

456

7

1

2 34

Sector I

Sector II

Sector III

Sector IV

Sector V

Sector VI

12

34 5

6

Sector VII

Sector VIII

12

34

56

78

9

1011 12

1314

151617

181920

21222324

25

DirectionHerculane

Cariera S 1,- ector 2,3,4

How to find crags: The Quarry (Cariera) is situated south east of Herculane Spa town. On the main road bearing towards thehotels walk for another 200 metres after you leave the market on your left. Cross the bridge to your right over the Cerna Riverand keep going over the football pitch. You'll reach a main road (DN67D). Follow it to your left until you arrive at a gipsysettlement. Here you turn right and move up the small stream leaving the gipsy houses behind and enter a gorge (CheileProlazului).

Best climbing is from spring to late autumn. During rain the wall gets wet quickly but afterwards it dries quickly again. It's awindy area.

Railway StationMarket

Football pit

ch

Prolazului GorgeCariera (The Quarry)

Pecinisca Gorge

Herculane

Pecinisca


DirectionOrsova

DirectionCaransebes

DN67D

DN70

1. Solitaru 3B 5 l.c.2. Cok Problem 8+/9- 15m3. Yok Problem 8 20m4. Archeopterix 7 20m5. Miosotis 7 15m6. Bestia 6 15m7. Frumoasa 6+ 15m8. Bluto 7+ 15m9. Olive 5 15m10. Popeye 8- 15m

1. Icar 7 12m2. A Bao A Qu 8 10m3. Bobocul 3B (6+) 3 l.c.4. Cercetasul 3B 3 l.c.5. Miruna 3A (7) 3 l.c.6. Vanessa 3A 2 l.c.

1. First Acces 7 12m2. Recreatia Mare 6+ 13m3. Vis de copil 6+/7- 10m4. Levantica 6+ 12m5. Andul 8 15m6. Paunul 8+ 20m, g

1. Tangram 6 10m2. Stalker 7- 10m3. Fluturasu 8- 15m4. No Way Jose 10 17m, c5. LL Cool J 10- 17m, c6. Body Count 9+ 12m, c7. Dune 7 12m

Sector I

Sector II

Sector IIISector IV

Water source: There is a spring 100m away from the gypsieshouses.


Beta Version1 2

3 45

6

1

2 345 6

7 89

10

1

23

45

5

12

3

4

5

6

7

12

3

456

7

1

2 34

Sector I

Sector II

Sector III

Sector IV

Sector V

Sector VI

12

34 5

6

Sector VII

Sector VIII

12

34

56

78

9

1011 12

1314

151617

181920

21222324

25

DirectionHerculane

Cariera S ,7,8- ector 5,6

30. Creasta Vantului 3B(6-) 2 l.c.31. Hornul Vantului 2B(5) 2 l.c.32. Doctorul 3B 2 l.c.33. Cronologie 7 var. 6 25m34. Sex cu zeii 6+/7- 23m35. Poveste fara sfarsit 6+ 23m36. Voyager 6 10m

1. Fat bottomed girl 5 8m2. Phoenix 6 var. 7 12m3. Umbla Creanga 8+ ? 12m, g4. Talk about your life 5 6m

1. Bjork 9 23m, c2. ? ? 10m3. Soboru 8 13m4. Mutulica 7+ 15m5. Badica 7- 17m6. ? 9 ? 20m

1. Liliacul 4A 3 l.c.2. Iepurasul 4B (6-) 2 l.c.3. Rapii 6+ 2 l.c.4. Autodafe 8 60m5. Maria 7+ 3 l.c.6. Nedeea 4A (6) 3 l.c.7. Caporalul 8- 3 l.c.8. Fara epoleti 7 12m9. De ce? 8 2 l.c.10. Feet your wear 8+/9- 12m, s11. Creasta Capitanului 4A (5+) 4 l.c.12. Hungry Daze 6+/7- 10m, s13. Curcubeu de vara 9- ? 12m14. Mere albe 8- 15m15. Trecatorul 8- 12m16. Pluto 7- 3 l.c.17. ? ? ?18. Strunga Sanzaienelor4B (7-)3 l.c.19. Goofy 7 2 l.c.20. Gratis Ba! 7+ 25m21. Reptila 4B (6-) 2 l.c.22. Leucemia 7+/8- 2 l.c.23. Heroin 7+/8- 2 l.c.24. Apollo 8- 25m25. Lacusta 7 1 l.c.

Sector V

Sector VI

Railway StationMarket

Football pit

ch

Prolazului GorgeCariera (The Quarry)

Pecinisca Gorge

Herculane

Pecinisca


DirectionOrsova

DirectionCaransebes

DN67D

DN70

Sector VIII

Sector VII


topo herculane

Documents

climbing routes

climbing sites

interesting climbing

free climbing of grade

interesting routeg route

glued holdsc route

multi pitch route

topo guide v3