TOC 2

Departments30 FOUNDER’S LETTER Surveying California’s arts scene, from

north to south.

32 C PEOPLEWho’s who behind the scenes of C.

36 #CMYCALIFORNIAVanessa Prager’s painterly photo diary.

41 C WHAT’S HOT Punk’s not dead, says Alejandro Gehry. Sqirl

makes a play for the bookshelf. Lighting up

at Jessica Silverman Gallery’s pop‑up.

53 C FASHIONFendi hits the road. Christopher Kane

goes down memory lane. Elizabeth and

James bows at The Grove.

65 C BEAUTYDior celebrates its 50th in living color.

Christian Louboutin debuts his first set of

fragrances. Victoria Tsai’s geisha‑inspired

must‑haves.

69 C DESIGNStudio Collective nails West Coast cool.

An S.F. artist spends the year in knots.

Betsy Burnham plays interior dress‑up.

75 C MENUBreadheads Chad Robertson and Liz

Prueitt debut Tartine Manufactory in the

Mission. Silver Lake’s tasty new eateries.

81 C TRAVELPhotographer and jewelry designer Lisa

Eisner’s inside track on Jackson Hole.

85 C CULTURETom Sachs’ new show blasts off at YBCA.

Matthew Aucoin changes the face of opera.

L.A.’s can’t‑miss art happenings.

135 SHOPPING GUIDE

136 WHEN INDowntown Los Angeles sets the stage for

this season’s street style.

138 PHOTO FINISHActor Zoe Lister‑Jones is calling the shots.

53

48

42

72

4254

CONTENTS

FE

ND

I (P

.53

): C

OU

RT

ES

Y O

F F

EN

DI.

GE

HR

Y (

P.4

8):

JE

SS

ICA

SA

MP

LE

. C

HA

IR (

P.7

2):

TE

RI

LYN

FIS

HE

R.

TAB

LE

(P.

42

): J

AIM

E B

EE

CH

UM

. E

XO

TO

UR

ISM

E (

P.4

2):

CO

UR

TE

SY

OF

DO

MIN

IQU

E G

ON

ZA

LE

Z-

FO

ER

ST

ER

AN

D 3

03

GA

LL

ER

Y,

NE

W Y

OR

K.

CA

LVIN

KL

EIN

(P.

54

): T

HO

MA

S G

IDD

ING

S

C 26 OCTOBER 2016

129_TOC_IC.indd 26 9/14/16 7:00 PM

Fashion (opener)

Edited by ALISON EDMOND

One for the Road

Fendi is taking a cue from California’s favorite pastime for its fall stateside foray. As part of its cross-country #Fendi RoadTrip, the luxury Italian label is making two pit stops in L.A. by way of a can’t-miss cherry-red Apé. Inside, find the brand’s furry ABCharms (including a pom-pom resembling a monsterfied version of Cre-

ative Director Karl Lagerfeld), swappable embellished Strap You bag straps, and its latest must-have Dotcom handbag. Shop the three-wheeled pop-up truck when it parks at the annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades (October 15) and at The Grove (October 19-21). fendi.com.

• DANIELLE DIRECTO-MESTON

FENDI’s traveling pop-up concept in a customized Apé.

CO

UR

TE

SY

OF

FE

ND

I

OCTOBER 2016 C 53

129_Fashion_Opener+Turn+Bits_IC.indd 53 9/14/16 6:46 PM

Fashion (turn)“I love costumes, I love beautiful textiles. It’s just fundamental to the fiber of my being,” says self-taught embroidery artist and teacher Michelle Kingdom. The Burbank-based former fashion designer began sewing small tapestries decades ago, eventually spinning her hobby into a secondary career over the last two years. Kingdom’s latest collection of women-focused works explores themes of relationships, domesticity and identity. Her fall solo show will hold court all of October at Bergamot Station’s bG Gallery. 2525 Michigan

Ave., S.M., 310-906-4211; michellekingdom.com; @michelle.kingdom.

LOS ANGELES

At the Hip

POP & SUKI camera bags, $195/each. Left: POPPY JAMIE and SUKI WATERHOUSE.

WR

ITT

EN

BY

DA

NIE

LL

E D

IRE

CT

O-M

ES

TO

N A

ND

LIN

DS

AY

KIN

DE

LO

N.

SU

KI

WA

TE

RH

OU

SE

(2

): C

OU

RT

ES

Y O

F P

OP

& S

UK

I. C

ALV

IN K

LE

IN:

TH

OM

AS

GID

DIN

GS

. T

EX

TIL

ES

(2

): M

ICH

EL

LE

KIN

GD

OM

FASHION

The notion behind best friends Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse’s new venture, Pop & Suki, came about in quintessential British fashion: “We were drinking tea one night, having our usual daily debrief, and then started fantasizing about what our dream bag might look like,” says Jamie, a TV presenter-turned-entrepreneur. The pair—who met at Hollywood Roosevelt

haunt Teddy’s after each relocating to L.A. from London in 2013 to pursue their respective careers in fashion and entertainment—then crossed paths with fellow Brit and entrepreneur Leo Seigal and “set about our collective mission as pasty Brits abroad,” laughs Waterhouse.

Enter their covetable debut of friendship-inspired, minimalist accessories that nod to ’60s mod, featuring dainty jewelry pieces and charms as well as a monogram-ready camera bag and tote—sheathed in options like cotton-candy-pink suede and cognac leather—and leather attachments (tassels, luggage tag, half hearts). With each piece they create, the girls’ BFF status is further cemented: “We have given birth to a child now; her name is Pop & Suki,” Waterhouse quips. “Parenthood has inevitably made us stronger.” popandsuki.com.

From above: MICHELLE KINGDOM’s hand embroidery on linen: What is done cannot be undone and The world would continue without us, 2015.

CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION cashmere rib dress, $1,195.

SANTA MONICA

Point Break

COVER UPIn contrast to the revival of its iconic ’90s underpinnings this past spring, Calvin Klein Collection is covering up for Fall/Winter 2016 with its Cashmere Collection, a new offering of foundational pieces in a variety of monochrome hues. The 23-silhouette range also comprises off-duty staples like featherweight tees, ribbed turtlenecks, drawstring joggers, sweater dresses and cardigans—all spun from deluxe Italian threads. calvinklein.com.

129_Fashion_Bits1_IC.indd 54 9/14/16 6:44 PM

Fashion (bits)MARLIEN RENTMEESTER (left) and MARY ALICE HANEY. Below: HANEY x LE CATCH Marlien dress in cream, $350, also available in black and chambray.

CHRISTOPHER KANE Atomic print sweatshirt, $345.

MAX MARA limited-edition black beaded coat (far left), $10,890, and wool cashmere coat in Oatmeal, $3,490.

ELIZABETH AND JAMES at The Grove. Right: Morris coat, $1,855, Dahlia top, $195, and Tomboy jeans, $245.

BEVERLY HILLS

Epic ProportionsMax Mara’s famed 101801 coat turns 35 this year. To mark the occasion: a modern refresh. Originally dreamed up by designer Anne-Marie Beretta in 1981, the Italian label’s signature camel cocoon silhouette is now available in Oatmeal and black. To celebrate the rerelease, Max Mara will host a series of events featuring archival prints by legendary photographer Roxanne Lowit, starring infl uencers in the iconic cashmere-wool coat. 451 N. Rodeo Dr., B.H.,

310-385-9343; maxmara.com.

PAST PerfectChristopher Kane is taking a trip down memory lane in honor of his cult-cool label’s 10-year anniversary. The Scotland-bred, London-based designer is reviving his fi ercest prints as a capsule pullover collection. The 10-piece street-style-pleasing range includes designs such as a Technicolor mushroom cloud (pulled from U.S. government photos), an MRI brain scan, and that striking mid-roar chimp. christopherkane.com.

LOS ANGELES

NICE Catch

LOS ANGELES

Double ImpactNearly a decade in the making, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s fi rst brick-and-mortar for their minimalist cool label Elizabeth and Jameshas fi nally arrived. The CFDA award-winning designers (who also helm The Row) collaborated with architect David Montalba on the space, and hand-curated a scattering of vintage decor items to complement ready-to-wear and accessories and to lend a hangout, meeting-place vibe. 189 The Grove Dr., L.A., 323-647-7111; elizabethandjames.us.

“Our styles are completely different; Marlien is much cooler than me,” says L.A.-based designer Mary Alice Haney of her longtime friend Marlien Rentmeester, who helms fashion blog Le Catch. The former fashion editors collaborated on a single piece for Haney’s made-in-L.A. eponymous label, a venture that effortlessly embodies both of their California-cool aesthetics. “It is the perfect L.A. dress,” Rentmeester says, noting that its “conservative and covered-up” silhouette defi nes her high-low style, while sexy arm slits are a signature of Haney’s unabashed femininity. shophaney.com.

FASHION

WR

ITT

EN

BY

DA

NIE

LL

E D

IRE

CT

O-M

ES

TO

N A

ND

AL

ISO

N E

DM

ON

D.

MA

X M

AR

A (

2):

CO

UR

TE

SY

OF

MA

X

MA

RA

. L

E C

AT

CH

(2

): T

OM

MA

SO

ME

I. IN

TE

RIO

R A

ND

MO

DE

L:

CO

UR

TE

SY

OF

EL

IZA

BE

TH

AN

D J

AM

ES

129_Fashion_Bits2_IC.indd 56 9/14/16 6:44 PM

Fashion (bits)

AVANT GuardMILITARY-inspired looks are the ultimate uniform

for FALL’S fashion ARSENAL

1. OSCAR DE LA RENTA gold wisteria crystal brooch and chain, $590, Saks Fifth Avenue, B.H. 2. VALENTINO crocodile bag, $14,875, and guitar strap, $1,045, Valentino, B.H. 3. TIFFANY & CO. Return to Ti� any bracelet, $3,550, Ti� any & Co., B.H. 4. CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION leather pumps, $895, calvin klein .com. 5. FURLA bag, $548, furla .com. 6. MARC JACOBS A Frame Checks bag, $7,000, Marc Jacobs, L.A. 7. STAZIA LOREN Sharra Tagano bracelet, circa 1960s, $1,250, Barneys New York, B.H. 8. GIORGIO ARMANI sunglasses, $1,120, Giorgio Armani, B.H. 9. TOD’S lace-up boots, $1,155, Tod’s, B.H. 10. GUCCI leather bag, $2,980, Gucci, B.H. 11. JIMMY CHOO Romy pumps, $1,050, Jimmy Choo, B.H. 12. DIOR ring, $440, Dior, B.H.

AVANT AVANT MILITARY

for

AVANT AVANT AVANT MILITARY

1. OSCAR DE LA RENTA

GuardGuard-inspired looks are the ultimate uniform

ARSENAL

ring, $440, Dior, B.H.

BURBERRY September 2016 collection.

FASHION Trend

AL

ISO

N E

DM

ON

D.

SE

E S

HO

PP

ING

GU

IDE

FO

R D

ETA

ILS

, P.

134

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

129_Fashion_Trend_Military_IC.indd 58 9/14/16 6:47 PM

Fashion (bits)

COLD PlaySHEARLING adds a SOFT touch

to fall’s COZIEST accessories

1. LONGCHAMP Roseau Panthère reversible tote, $810, longchamp.com. 2. MIU MIU faux shearling slides, $990, Miu Miu, B.H. 3. DIANE VON FURSTENBERG Love Power saddle bag, $398, DVF, C.M. 4. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI cashmere fur sports wedges, $1,445, Brunello Cucinelli, B.H. 5. MICHAEL KORS Sloan shoulder bag, $298, michaelkors.com. 6. GUCCI Princetown zebra slippers, $995, Gucci, B.H. 7. PIERRE HARDY Reporter natural bag, similar styles available, pierrehardy.com. 8. ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO Gemma pumps, $850, Barneys New York, B.H. 9. MAX MARA sheepskin bucket bag, $1,450, maxmara.com. 10. MONCLER Osia Stivale wedge boots, $740, Moncler, B.H.

SHEARLING touch accessories accessories

1. LONGCHAMP Roseau

CHLOÉ Fall/Winter 2016.

FASHION Trend

CO

UR

TE

SY

OF

CH

LOÉ

. S

EE

SH

OP

PIN

G G

UID

E F

OR

DE

TAIL

S,

P.13

4

1.

2.

3.

5.7.

8.

10.

4.

6.

9.

129_Fashion_Trend_Fur_IC.indd 60 9/14/16 6:46 PM

Fashion (j box)

Back to NATUREHead INTO THE WILD with FLORA and

FAUNA-inspired baubles

1. JOHN HARDY Macan Spirit necklace, $36,000, john hardy .com. 2. WENDY YUE fl ower cu� , $84,000, Neiman Marcus, B.H. 3. LAUREN WOLF JEWELRY snake-fang necklace, $1,200, Esqueleto, L.A. 4. ALEX SOLDIER Sunfl ower ring, $22,500, SFA, S.F. 5. ARMAN SARKISYAN stag locket, $16,960, Neiman Marcus, B.H. 6. TODD REED drop earrings, $12,320, Todd Reed, Venice. 7. FERAL JEWELRY antler bracelet, $4,800, feral jewelry .com. 8. CHOPARD Fleurs d’Opales ring, price upon request, Chopard, C.M. 9. VHERNIER Rosa earrings, $17,000, Vhernier, B.H. 10. COLETTE JEWELRY Desire ear cu� , $10,500, Colette Jewelry, L.A. 11. CARTIER Cactus de Cartier bracelet, price upon request, Cartier, B.H. 12. STEPHEN WEBSTER Love Me Love Me Not detachable earrings, $8,950, Stephen Webster, B.H.

-inspired baubles

1. JOHN HARDY Macan

GEORGIA O’KEEFFE’s Cow’s Skull with Calico Roses, 1931.

Stephen Webster, B.H.

FASHION Jewelry Box

GE

OR

GIA

O’K

EE

FF

E,

AM

ER

ICA

N,

188

7-19

86

, C

OW

’S S

KU

LL

WIT

H C

AL

ICO

RO

SE

S,

193

1, O

IL O

N C

AN

VA

S,

91.

4 ×

61

CM

(3

6 ×

24

IN

.),

AL

FR

ED

S

TIE

GL

ITZ

CO

LL

EC

TIO

N,

GIF

T O

F G

EO

RG

IA O

’KE

EF

FE

, 19

47.

712

, T

HE

AR

T I

NS

TIT

UT

E O

F C

HIC

AG

O.

SE

E S

HO

PP

ING

GU

IDE

FO

R D

ETA

ILS

, P.

134

1. 2. 3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.9.

10.

11.

12.

129_Fashion_JewelryBox_IC.indd 62 9/14/16 6:45 PM