tip: märklin 3368 br 118 024-9 faulhaber motor conversion...
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Tip: Märklin 3368 BR 118 024-9 Faulhaber Motor Conversion By Vic. Date: 25-06-2019
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/marklin.html 1
Hi All,
I take great pleasure in introducing Vics’s article showing an outline procedure to convert a Märklin
3368 locomotive with High Performance motor to a Faulhaber motor for quiet running and slow speeds.
This motor conversion would also apply to 3367, 3369, 3767, 3768 and others, refer to reference links
below.
Vic supplied the outline text and photos unless otherwise specified which I have edited and combined
into this format presented.
My thanks to Vic for contributing to my Web pages.
3767 Photo by Ross
Reference Links Below
sb modellbau Manufacturer
22065 Faulhaber Motor Kit Used
22065 Instructions
PTFE Oil Used
Vic’s Article Below
General Notes
The process to convert a standard Märklin loco with High Performance motor to a Faulhaber motor
involves a combination of cutting and milling away the original chassis of the loco so that a brass base
block can be glued into place as a base area on top of which the actual motor is glued with 5 minute
araldite glue.
The brass base block is specifically made for each loco allowing it will fit into place on an area of the
chassis so that the new motor can sit on top of it and engage with one of the original gears of the chassis
after the chassis has been prepared with cutting and milling.
The instructions that come with motors are very simple – they generally show pictures of the brass block
in place on the newly prepared chassis from both sides and the motor on top of the brass block from both
sides, see reference links above.
Tip: Märklin 3368 BR 118 024-9 Faulhaber Motor Conversion By Vic. Date: 25-06-2019
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/marklin.html 2
General Notes continued
There is also a drawing of the chassis showing at what level to do different cuts and finally a picture of
the motor in place.
The instruction pictures with brass block and motor in place show the chassis with loco wheels attached
but the actual cutting and milling is best done with all wheels and gears removed to prevent damage and
to get easy access as per the drawing showing the cutting lines.
The following description is how I converted my Märklin 3368 BR 118. Before this I had already
converted about 15 other locos. Each conversion is different but has got a basic logical system which in
my case involves just sitting back and visualizing each stage over and over.
Also very importantly you will ideally be totally dismantling your loco so take lots of photos each time
you remove something and write notes so you can reassemble it.
On receiving your motor kit take the body off your loco place the new motor in front and visualize what
you are going to achieve with the help of the pictures that come with the instructions.
Original loco motor in place with new motor in front and close up of motor below.
Tip: Märklin 3368 BR 118 024-9 Faulhaber Motor Conversion By Vic. Date: 25-06-2019
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/marklin.html 3
Motor Chassis Removal
Remove the old motor and chassis assembly.
NB When I remove the old
motor I use the original
Märklin drawing showing all
parts with spare parts numbers
and label all parts in small
plastic bags for future
reference and use.
Remove plate holding wheels
in place –2 screws.
NB On this loco the same plate is used to
hold the collector shoe onto the rear
chassis and I added an extra collector
shoe under the motor – I have found that
double shoeing engines leads to greater
running reliability.
Tip: Märklin 3368 BR 118 024-9 Faulhaber Motor Conversion By Vic. Date: 25-06-2019
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/marklin.html 4
Motor Chassis Removal continued
Above is Chassis stripped of motor and wheels – gears still in place.
Gear Removal
Before removing gears on chassis – count the teeth and take photos of orientation for reassembly of lower
gears. Document this process carefully.
I use a homemade punch to tap out the pin (direction of yellow arrows) holding the gear in place – it is a
hardened nail (used for concrete nailing) ground down to fit into the pin hole.
Tip: Märklin 3368 BR 118 024-9 Faulhaber Motor Conversion By Vic. Date: 25-06-2019
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/marklin.html 5
Visualise New Motor Fit
Motor chassis with gears removed.
Now roughly place new motor onto chassis to visualise where it finally will sit. Note how the lower block
fits neatly into place. The cutting / milling of the chassis will enable the motor section to fit into place
Tip: Märklin 3368 BR 118 024-9 Faulhaber Motor Conversion By Vic. Date: 25-06-2019
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/marklin.html 6
Milling
Warning: - You undertake the following modifications at your own risk. Mechanical modifications
(milling the motor chassis) are done at your own risk. Make sure you have a plan B if things go wrong.
The photo below shows the chassis firmly placed into a jig on my micro milling machine (basically a
small but more accurate drill press).
I use timber side pieces to stop damage from the metal jaws of the vice.
In this picture I am milling a space for
the connection of the extra collector
shoe. As mentioned earlier this is just a
personnel preference.
Also note I have drilled and taped a
2mm hole (red arrow) for the mounting
screw to hold the extra collector shoe
onto the chassis.
The photo above shows the space finished and drilling an access hole for the connecting wire.
Tip: Märklin 3368 BR 118 024-9 Faulhaber Motor Conversion By Vic. Date: 25-06-2019
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/marklin.html 7
Collector Shoe Wiring Access Hole
An access is drilled thru the lower brass block at an angle and the photo below shows this with the brass
block in place. The position of the hole is determined by visualisation and you can see that I have
scratched a line onto the brass block and lined in up with a corresponding line on the chassis.
Cutting the Motor Chassis
The next step and photo above is the main cutting/milling of the block. In this part I am using a metal
cutting disc from my Dremel tools on the milling machine.
I have determined the position of the cut from the original supplied instructions and simply looking at
where the motor will sit on the lower block again from the instruction photos.
Tip: Märklin 3368 BR 118 024-9 Faulhaber Motor Conversion By Vic. Date: 25-06-2019
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/marklin.html 8
Instruction Deviations Milling the Motor Chassis
NB: When cutting I try to maintain as much of the old chassis as possible to maintain weight and cutting
not enough is better than too much. With this conversion I deviated from the instructions and only cut half
of the upper section away to save some metal for weight.
The picture above shows half of the advised metal cut away and trial fitting of the brass base block.
Tip: Märklin 3368 BR 118 024-9 Faulhaber Motor Conversion By Vic. Date: 25-06-2019
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/marklin.html 9
Trial Fitting of the Motor Block
Now place the motor block and make sure there is no interference if no further milling is required and
replace the gears for final positioning. Also check that all gearing rotates with no interference.
If all gears rotate with no interference you can glue into place the lower block with epoxy glue.
Allow to set.
Now recheck the final fit of the motor.
Make sure that the gear from the motor block is parallel to the gear on the chassis and there is a tiny gap
between the teeth for some minute play. Mark this position with a scratch line or marker.
Glue motor block onto the base block and recheck and recheck before epoxy glue sets.
Tip: Märklin 3368 BR 118 024-9 Faulhaber Motor Conversion By Vic. Date: 25-06-2019
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/marklin.html 10
Motor Chassis Reassembly
Reassemble the rest of the wheels and collector shoe.
Reassemble new motor chassis into the locomotive main chassis.
Tip: Märklin 3368 BR 118 024-9 Faulhaber Motor Conversion By Vic. Date: 25-06-2019
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/marklin.html 11
Final Locomotive Assembly
The original c90 decoder is replaced with
an ESU LokPilot V4.0 decoder for
improved smooth slow running of the
locomotive.
The CVs were adjusted as required – I use
the auto set up method for the LP4.0
Now finely tune the CV’s for very smooth
slow running – enjoy.
LokProgrammer Project File link supplied
With this loco I also converted the front and
rear lights to LED’s.
See Ross’ article if you want to add rear
lights pages 24-25 for this locomotive
Enhancing Old locos with Rear Lights
3767.yra TrainAnimator file
NB: - When I did my first conversion some years back I mainly used my Dremel with a great results.
Using a micro milling machine gives you greater precision.
I was also reluctant to remove wheels but purchased wheel pullers and other tools just to make the
process easier.
When you decide on a loco to convert make sure that all gears and bearings are working smoothly to start.
The final result is very satisfying.
Tip: Märklin 3368 BR 118 024-9 Faulhaber Motor Conversion By Vic. Date: 25-06-2019
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~rossstew/rms/marklin.html 12
TrainController Speed Graphs
Comments by Ross
The linear speed graph on the left is
my E18 using a c90 decoder set for
140km/h.
TC8.0G2 is the version of
TrainController
Speed step 2 is the first speed step
for the Threshold speed.
The curved speed graph on the right
is Vic’s E18 using a LP4.0 decoder
set for 150km/h.
TC9.0B1 is the version of
TrainController.
As the graph is curved Vic is able to
obtain smooth lower speed steps and
he makes use of every available
speed step.
The Faulhaber motor is very quiet
and the locomotive has very smooth
running.
Once again my thanks to Vic for contributing this article on Faulhaber motor conversions.
As always enjoy your model trains.