the ten best places of the north shore (306-star04-07)

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7 8 9 10 The Ten Best Places of the North Shore: A Visitor’s Guide to North Shore Scientific and Natural Areas Contributors: Peggy Booth, Jan Green, Andrew Slade, Molly Thompson, and Steve Wilson PRODUCED BY SUGARLOAF: THE NORTH SHORE STEWARDSHIP ASSOCIATION, WITH SUPPORT FROM THE SCIENTIFIC AND NATURAL AREA PROGRAM OF THE MINNESOTA DEPARTMENT OF NATURAL RESOURCES. THIS PROJECT WAS FUNDED IN PART BY THE COASTAL ZONE MANAGEMENT ACT, BY NOAA’S OFFICE OF OCEAN AND COASTAL RESOURCE MANAGEMENT, IN COOPERATION WITH MINNESOTA’S LAKE SUPERIOR COASTAL PROGRAM.

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In 1968, the State of Minnesota began to establish a system of public naturepreserves that protect the rarest and most significant of Minnesota’s natural features, includingplant and animal species, native plant communities and important geological sites. These placesare called Scientific and Natural Areas (SNAs), the most protective land designation in the state.

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Page 1: The Ten Best Places of the North Shore (306-star04-07)

78910TThhee TTeenn BBeesstt PPllaacceess ooff tthhee NNoorrtthh SShhoorree::

AA VViissiittoorr’’ss GGuuiiddee ttoo NNoorrtthh SShhoorree SScciieennttiiffiicc aanndd NNaattuurraall AArreeaass

Contributors: Peggy Booth, Jan Green, Andrew Slade, Molly Thompson, and Steve Wilson

P R O D U C E D B Y S U G A R L O A F : T H E N O R T H S H O R E S T E WA R D S H I P A S S O C I AT I O N ,

W I T H S U P P O R T F R O M T H E S C I E N T I F I C A N D N AT U R A L A R E A P R O G R A M O F T H E

M I N N E S O TA D E PA R T M E N T O F N AT U R A L R E S O U R C E S .

T H I S P R O J E C T WA S F U N D E D I N PA R T B Y T H E C O A S TA L Z O N E M A N A G E M E N T A C T ,

B Y N O A A ’ S O F F I C E O F O C E A N A N D C O A S TA L R E S O U R C E M A N A G E M E N T , I N

C O O P E R AT I O N W I T H M I N N E S O TA ’ S L A K E S U P E R I O R C O A S TA L P R O G R A M .

Page 2: The Ten Best Places of the North Shore (306-star04-07)

IInn 11996688,, tthhee SSttaattee ooff MMiinnnneessoottaa began to establish a system of public naturepreserves that protect the rarest and most significant of Minnesota’s natural features, includingplant and animal species, native plant communities and important geological sites. These placesare called Scientific and Natural Areas (SNAs), the most protective land designation in the state.They are proposed, designated and managed by the Minnesota Department of NaturalResources with advice from the public through a citizens advisory committee. The SNAprogram’s goal is to ensure that no single rare feature is lost from any region of the state. TheSNA program currently includes over 140 natural areas statewide

The ten SNAs listed in this guide are open to public use, with some exceptions. You areencouraged to enjoy these sites, to share them with others and to protect their special values.However, these are sensitive areas that could be damaged if misused or overused. Therefore,activities such as hunting, snowmobiling, bike-riding, horseback-riding, visiting with a dog,camping and collecting rocks are generally prohibited. Exceptions to these rules are listed in theAdditional Information sections

The SNAs in this guide are listed from south to north. Some may require a significant hike or a driveon rough roads. Site development varies widely and public conveniences are the exception. Someof the best features are found off the hiking trails and some of these sites have no trails at all. Ifyou’re comfortable using a GPS unit or map and compass, you can get into these off-trail locations.

SNAs are an important resource. Enjoy your visit and plan to see them all! For more informationabout other SNAs in Minnesota visit the Minnesota DNR SNA web site atwwwwww..ddnnrr..ssttaattee..mmnn..uuss//eeccoollooggiiccaall__sseerrvviicceess//ssnnaa//iinnddeexx..hhttmmll..

When a permit is required to visit a site, apply for written permission through the Minnesota DNRSNA program (651) 259-5088.

nn HHeemmlloocckk RRaavviinnee SSNNAADDiirreeccttiioonnss ttoo ppaarrkkiinngg aarreeaa:: From Carlton, take Hwy 210east through Jay Cooke SP 1.6 miles east of Visitor Center.Turn north on Co Rd 151 (Jay Cooke Road), then travel0.6 miles to a parking area on east (right) side of the road.

The Willard Munger State Trail runs along the southeastborder of this site, and the eastern side of the site isaccessible from this trail.

FFaacciilliittiieess:: None

RReeccoommmmeennddeedd aaccttiivviittiieess:: Flower and bird walks in theNorthern Hardwood Forest

SSiiggnnaattuurree SSppeecciieess:: Eastern hemlock

DDeessccrriippttiioonn:: Hemlock Ravine SNA contains northern hardwoods, such as basswood and maple, and the very rareeastern hemlock. This is the extreme western range of the eastern hemlock. More than 25 percent of the state’seastern hemlock trees occur on this 50-acre site, in the deep ravine that bisects the site. However, you might notsee any hemlocks on a casual visit. The steep ravine has highly erodible slopes that are subject to disturbance byvisitors. Therefore the ravine itself is designated a sanctuary and may only be visited with a DNR permit.

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Visit in the spring, wander around the level areas off of the Munger Trail or Co.Rd. 151. View blooming trillium,hepatica, bloodroot, and Dutchman’s breeches.

BBeesstt ttiimmee ttoo vviissiitt:: Spring (wildflowers)

nn MMiinnnneessoottaa PPooiinntt PPiinnee FFoorreesstt SSNNAADDiirreeccttiioonnss ttoo ppaarrkkiinngg aarreeaa:: Located in Duluth. From I-35exit 256 take Lake Ave across aerial lift bridge four milesto Sky Harbor Airport. Park at the airport entrance andfollow the trail next to the runway 3/4 mile to the site.

FFaacciilliittiieess:: None

RReeccoommmmeennddeedd aaccttiivviittiieess:: Hiking, flower and bird walks.

SSiiggnnaattuurree SSppeecciieess:: Old growth red and white pine; rareferns; beach grass, warblers; shorebirds

DDeessccrriippttiioonn:: Wind off Lake Superior whispers though this 18 acre old-growth pine forest at the southeastern tipof Minnesota Point – the only pine forest on Lake Superior sand dunes in Minnesota. Red and white pinesdominate this site with some paper birch. Poison ivy is abundant as well. A special feature on Minnesota Point isthe rare ferns of the genus Botrychium. This pine forest is found on one of the longest freshwater baymouthsandbars in the world. The sandbar began forming about 3,200 years ago from the South Shore (WisconsinPoint). Wave action transported and deposited sand until it reached the North Shore (Minnesota) only a fewthousand years ago. In spring and fall, migrating birds of many kinds, including shorebirds and warblers, use thepoint as a resting spot.

BBeesstt ttiimmee ttoo vviissiitt:: All year

AAddddiittiioonnaall iinnffoorrmmaattiioonn:: A primitive trail runs through this site. Please stay on the trail to avoid the poison ivy andpreserve the plant species and the fragile dune ecosystem.

nn MMoooossee MMoouunnttaaiinn SSNNAADDiirreeccttiioonnss ttoo ppaarrkkiinngg aarreeaa:: Located just north of Duluth.From MN Hwy 61, turn left (north) immediately past theLester River bridge onto 60th Street. After SuperiorStreet, 60th Street becomes Lester River Road (Co Rd12). Travel north 3.2 miles on Lester River Road. Theparking lot is on the east side of road.

FFaacciilliittiieess:: None

RReeccoommmmeennddeedd aaccttiivviittiieess:: Rough hiking, flower & bird walks

SSiiggnnaattuurree SSppeecciieess:: Sugar maple, basswood, yellow birch,Carolina spring beauty, white baneberry,

DDeessccrriippttiioonn:: Moose Mountain, 177 acres, is an excellent example of old-growth Northern Hardwood forest andhardwood forest succession following wildfire. Sugar maple, basswood, red oak, and yellow birch dominate. Thebest example of old-growth hardwoods is on the south side of the powerline, just over the top of the hill. The areaupslope of the old growth and to the north shows direct evidence of the 1918 Cloquet Fire.

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BBeesstt ttiimmee ttoo vviissiitt:: Spring (wildflowers blooming) and fall (dramatic fall colors)

AAddddiittiioonnaall iinnffoorrmmaattiioonn:: To easily access the old-growth hardwoods area, walk from the parking lot south to thepowerline. Follow the powerline up over the top of the hill.

Berry picking (non-commercial), picnicking, and deer hunting are allowed. Dogs under control and snowmobilingare also permitted under the powerline. All other SNA rules are in effect at all times.

nn IIoonnaa’’ss BBeeaacchh SSNNAADDiirreeccttiioonnss ttoo ppaarrkkiinngg aarreeaa:: Travel 3.1 miles northeast ofGooseberry Falls SP on MN Hwy 61 to Milepost 42 andthe Twin Points Water Access site on the right. Park in thelot to the left as you enter. Follow the Gitchi Gami biketrail past the SNA sign for 100 yards, then turn right onwide dirt trail to SNA plaque and beach.

FFaacciilliittiieess:: Outhouse

RReeccoommmmeennddeedd aaccttiivviittiieess:: Exploring the beach

UUnniiqquuee ffeeaattuurreess:: Rhyolite shingle beach.

DDeessccrriippttiioonn:: Iona’s Beach SNA, 10 acres, lies on a narrow strip of Lake Superior’s North Shore betweenGooseberry Falls and Split Rock Lighthouse. It is named after Iona Lind, former owner of Twin Points Resort, whichpreviously occupied the site. On the north end of the beach is a cliff of pink, volcanic rhyolite. The beach is formedalmost exclusively of rock eroded from this cliff. It stretches over 300 yards south to a cliff and headland of darkgrey basalt. Prevailing storm winds and waves have gnawed slabs of pink rhyolite from the northern cliff, smoothedthem into flattened pebbles or “shingles,” and tossed them down shore, high up on the beach, and ultimately tothe south end against the basalt formation. As the waves recede, the shingles come to rest with a tinkling soundunique to this beach. Back of the beach, now 15 to 20 feet high, lies a moist swale of alders, paper birch, balsampoplar, currants, and dogwood. Waves hurl pebbles ever higher into that vegetation, nibbling the earth away froma fringe of roots now exposed as the beach gradually moves inland.

BBeesstt ttiimmee ttoo vviissiitt:: All year

AAddddiittiioonnaall iinnffoorrmmaattiioonn:: Unsupervised swimming and shore fishing are permitted. All other SNA rules are in effectat all times.

nn SSuuggaarrllooaaff PPooiinntt SSNNAADDiirreeccttiioonnss ttoo ppaarrkkiinngg aarreeaa:: Located 6.5 miles NE of LittleMarais on Hwy 61, Milepost 73. Parking lot is locatedlakeside.

FFaacciilliittiieess:: Restroom, interpretive center

RReeccoommmmeennddeedd aaccttiivviittiieess: Flower and bird walks, hiking,geologic exploration

UUnniiqquuee ffeeaattuurreess:: World-class geology

DDeessccrriippttiioonn: Sugarloaf Point contains world-classexamples of basalt lava flows from the Precambrian age.

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Lava erupted here about 1.1 billion years ago. On the point at the east end, there are excellent exposures of lavaflow features, including pipe amygdules and ropy, thin-bedded pahoehoe.

The SNA also includes an unusual tombolo, where a former island is now connected to the mainland by twobeach strands. The beach is composed of well-rounded boulders, cobbles, and pebbles of a wide variety of rocktypes, some of which originated in Canada and were brought down in the Ice Ages. In the tombolo scientists arerestoring a wetland that was filled in years ago when the site was used as a staging area for a logging operation.

BBeesstt ttiimmee ttoo vviissiitt:: All year

AAddddiittiioonnaall iinnffoorrmmaattiioonn:: Sugarloaf Point SNA is adjacent to Sugarloaf Cove, maintained by Sugarloaf: The NorthShore Stewardship Association, a non-profit, organization. A one-mile interpretive trail starts in the parking areaand passes through the SNA.

Access to the Point is limited to groups of 10 or less, with permission of the nonprofit or the DNR. [email protected] or 218-663-7679.

nn LLuuttsseenn SSNNAADDiirreeccttiioonnss ttoo ppaarrkkiinngg aarreeaa:: Located north of Hwy 61.From Hwy 61, take County Rd 5, Ski Hill Road, either 0.8mile to a cross country ski trailhead signed “Poplar River”or 1.2 mile to a snowmobile trail across from the stables.Follow either trail NE into the SNA.

FFaacciilliittiieess:: None

RReeccoommmmeennddeedd aaccttiivviittiieess:: Flower and bird walks, crosscountry skiing

UUnniiqquuee ffeeaattuurreess:: Old-growth Northern Hardwoodand upland White Cedar forest, Carolina spring beauty, moschatel, and black-throated blue warblers.

DDeessccrriippttiioonn:: The scenic Lutsen SNA, at 720 acres, is one of the largest known acreages of essentially undisturbedupland old-growth hardwood forest in the North Shore area. The site offers sweeping panoramic views of ridges,slopes, cliffs, and valleys. The Northern Hardwood forest, dominated by sugar maples, blends into hardwood-conifer forest. Many individual trees are from 145 to 300 years old. Large fallen logs provide habitat for wildlifeand enhance new forest growth. Smaller areas of aspen-birch forest also occur here. Wildflowers blooming here inthe spring include Dutchman’s breeches, white baneberry, Carolina spring beauty, and moschatel.

BBeesstt ttiimmee ttoo vviissiitt:: Fall (colors), Winter (skiing or snowmobiling) and Spring (wildflowers). The access trails are notmowed and are wet and grassy.

AAddddiittiioonnaall iinnffoorrmmaattiioonn:: Picnicking is permitted only on the snowmobile trail. Visitors must wear soft-soled shoes.

nn BBuutttteerrwwoorrtt CClliiffffss SSNNAADDiirreeccttiioonnss ttoo ppaarrkkiinngg aarreeaa:: Located 8 miles W of Grand Marais on Hwy 61 in Cascade River SP. There is a smallparking lot on the north side of Hwy 61, 1.5 miles east of the state park entrance.

FFaacciilliittiieess:: None

RReeccoommmmeennddeedd aaccttiivviittiieess:: Nature observation and appreciation

5

Page 6: The Ten Best Places of the North Shore (306-star04-07)

UUnniiqquuee ffeeaattuurreess:: Rare arctic-alpine plants and anexample of naturally regenerating aspen-birch forestrecovering from a 1993 blowdown.

DDeessccrriippttiioonn:: Butterwort Cliffs SNA consists of a 53-acre stripof wet rock shore natural community on Lake Superiorbounded by aspen-birch. This SNA is closed May 1-August15 to protect a herring gull colony. A variety of colorfullichens, ranging from orange to green, cover much of thebedrock shoreline. The cool moist microclimate near the lakeprovides habitat for a unique assemblage of rare arctic-alpineplants, including butterwort and Hudson Bay eyebright.

Butterwort, for which this SNA is named, grows in fragile mats, its sticky, yellow-green leaves trapping insects as anutritional supplement. The eastern-most lot was received as a gift from The Nature Conservancy and dedicated as theTom Savage Memorial Unit in honor of Tom’s long-time advocacy for protection of critical lands along the North Shore.

BBeesstt ttiimmee ttoo vviissiitt:: Fall

AAddddiittiioonnaall iinnffoorrmmaattiioonn:: Because of the sensitive features at this site, a visit permit, available at Cascade River SP,must be obtained.

nn MMyyhhrr CCrreeeekk RRiiddggee SSNNAADDiirreeccttiioonnss ttoo ppaarrkkiinngg llooccaattiioonn:: From Hovland travel 0.2miles north on CR16 (Arrowhead Trail). Turn left (west)on CR69 (North Road) for 1.7 miles. The SNA is on thesouth side. Park along the shoulder of the road. There isno SNA sign marking this entrance.

FFaacciilliittiieess:: None

RReeccoommmmeennddeedd aaccttiivviittiieess:: Nature observation

UUnniiqquuee ffeeaattuurreess: Fire-dependent plant communities; jack pine

DDeessccrriippttiioonn:: Myhr Creek Ridge SNA, at 160 acres,straddles a 4-square mile bedrock hill overlooking Lake Superior. The unique habitats are found at least one-quarter mile in from CR 69, so be prepared with map and compass for a considerable bushwack. Patches ofexposed bedrock dot the ridge, and where soils are present, they are typically extremely shallow. Shallow soilsover bedrock dry quickly, making the vegetation they support more fire prone. Fires also consume forest litter thatcontributes to soil formation. The most recent fires are thought to have swept the ridge in 1908 and 1918,leading to the site’s present mosaic of fire-dependent plant communities found at only one other site in the NorthShore Highlands. Look for the signature trees of fire-dependent plant communities, scattered jack pine in excess of100 years old, whose form and character speak to the harsh site conditions.

BBeesstt ttiimmee ttoo vviissiitt:: All year

AAddddiittiioonnaall iinnffoorrmmaattiioonn:: Dogs, public hunting during legal open seasons, berry-picking (non-commercial), andpicnicking are permitted. All other SNA rules are in effect at all times.

nn SSpprriinngg BBeeaauuttyy NNoorrtthheerrnn HHaarrddwwooooddss SSNNAADDiirreeccttiioonnss ttoo ppaarrkkiinngg aarreeaa:: Travel 2.4 miles north of Hovland on the Arrowhead Trail (Co Rd 16). Turn left (west)and travel 1 mile on Tower Road to the junction of Tom Lake Road; stay left and go 0.3 miles. Park at the gate,

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which marks the eastern boundary of the natural area.

FFaacciilliittiieess:: None

RReeccoommmmeennddeedd aaccttiivviittiieess:: Flower and bird walks

UUnniiqquuee ffeeaattuurreess:: Old-growth, northern hardwoods;Chilean sweet cicely; Carolina spring beauty

DDeessccrriippttiioonn:: The Spring Beauty Northern HardwoodsSNA, at 400 acres, contains a rare, old growth NorthernHardwoods forest and several protected plant species

associated only with these communities. The large size and location of this forest along the northern edge of itsnormal range make it particularly significant. A continuous canopy of old-growth sugar maple arches over lower-growing maple species. White cedar, white spruce, white pine, and yellow birch occur occasionally. Look for therare Chilean sweet cicely, blunt-fruited sweet cicely, and Carolina spring beauty. For a memorable trip, visit inSeptember for the stunning fall color and the possibility of sighting moose or bear on the road.

BBeesstt ttiimmee ttoo vviissiitt:: Spring and Fall

AAddddiittiioonnaall iinnffoorrmmaattiioonn:: Dogs, public hunting permitted during legal open seasons, berry picking (non-commercial) and picnicking are permitted. All other SNA rules are in effect at all times.

nn HHoovvllaanndd WWooooddss SSNNAADDiirreeccttiioonnss ttoo ppaarrkkiinngg aarreeaa:: From Hovland, travel 0.2miles north on Co Rd 16 (Arrowhead Trail). Turn left(west) on Co Rd 69 (North Road) and travel 2.6 milesto Co Rd 70 (Camp 20 Road). Turn right (north) onCamp 20 Road and travel 4.5 miles to Superior HikingTrail parking lot on right side. Follow the hiking trailgoing east and north across private land for 1.3 miles,where it enters state land at the SE corner of the SNA.

FFaacciilliittiieess:: None

RReeccoommmmeennddeedd aaccttiivviittiieess:: Nature observation, andbirding in diverse habitats.

UUnniiqquuee ffeeaattuurreess:: Old-growth northern hardwoods; Carolina spring beauty; large-leaved sandwort

DDeessccrriippttiioonn:: Hovland Woods SNA, a large forested natural area, contains mature and old-growth primary forestcommunities now rare in the region. Beaver flowages, alder swamp and a tributary to the Flute Reed River arealso found on the 280-acre property. Large old white spruce and white pine provide habitat for rare lichens andnesting eagles. Other species found on the site and in the general area include animal species such as theEastern gray wolf and pine marten. Rare plants include the Carolina spring beauty and large-leaved sandwort. Aportion of the site was a gift from The Nature Conservancy.

BBeesstt ttiimmee ttoo vviissiitt:: Spring

AAddddiittiioonnaall iinnffoorrmmaattiioonn:: Dogs, public hunting during legal open seasons, berry-picking (non-commercial), andpicnicking are permitted. All other SNA rules are in effect at all times.

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123456nn TThhee NNoorrtthheerrnn HHaarrddwwooooddss FFoorreesstt

Why do 5 of the 10 SNAs in this booklet feature examples of the NorthernHardwood Forest? What’s so unusual about a maple tree?

The state of Minnesota includes three major vegetation zones. Thesouthwestern part of the state is prairie, and the northeastern part of thestate is a conifer forest. A broad band running from the northwest corner ofthe state, through the Twin Cities area and down to the southeastern cornerof the state is largely deciduous forest.

The Northern Hardwood Forest stands at the transition between the borealforest of conifer trees and the deciduous forest of maple and oak. Thistransition zone runs from northern Minnesota through the Great Lakes allthe way to northern New England. The main trees found in the NorthernHardwood Forest are sugar maple, yellow birch, American beech, white pineand eastern hemlock. However, in northern Minnesota and along the NorthShore, the beech and hemlock disappear.

The sugar maple and yellow birch forests of the North Shore are found at amuch higher latitude than would be expected, only because of the Big Lake.You might notice that the maple forests are found inland one or two miles,along ridgelines, but not right on the lakeshore. Lake Superior creates amicroclimate near its shores that is favorable to the Northern Hardwoods.This microclimate ensures that the deep colds of winter don’t get too coldfor the hardwood trees, which are killed by temperatures below minus 40degrees. The Northern Hardwood forests, however, are not found right byLake Superior, because it is not warm enough in the summer for thesesouthern species to grow.

Other lucky factors helping these outcrops of more southern forests includeglacial erosion and deposition. These SNAs protect and make available tothe public a beautiful and rare forest type 100 miles too far north.