the rambutan program: organic feedstocks, sourced sustainably

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The rambutan program: Organic feedstocks, sourced sustainably Dr. David HéraultGlobal Research & Development Director Cosmetic Bioactives

BASF Research Press Conferenceon December 10, 2020

BASF Research Press Conference 2020

Introducing the cosmetic bioactives business of BASF

We collect thousands of raw materials from nature worldwide

These raw materials include tree bark, leaves, roots, seeds, fruits, pericarps

Every year, we evaluate >150 new raw materials

Our raw materials Our competencies

We screen extracts of those materials for their potential, e.g., to rejuvenate the cells of the skin

We create effective products for consumers all over the world addressing anti-aging, skin hydration, pollution damages, etc.

Our customers

We supply the leading and most innovative players in the cosmetic industry

You find our ingredients in many skin and hair care products

You may have used our products today!

We are the cosmetic active ingredient business of BASF, a world leader in its field.

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Our customers and consumers are looking for new products focusing on claims and sustainability with novel ingredients

0% 20% 40% 60%

DIY/homemade

New packaging sizes

New packaging functionality

New distribution channel

Product portability (e.g., easy to bring during travel)

Personalized experiences

Products to be used as part of a regimen/routine

Changing textures

Ethical or sustainable features or characteristics

Personalized products or custom solutions

New formulations

Targeting a specific consumer generation/demographic

Digital beauty marketing (e.g., app, online analysis)

Sustainable/green features or characteristics

New ingredients

Health-inspired positioning

Green, clean and natural features or characteristics

Respondents

We deliver clinically proven efficacy –naturally and sustainably.

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Most important new product launches 2018


Our high-tech research activities allow us …

3D aggregates

Sebaceous gland

Dermalpapillae

3D bioprinted skin

DNA array

3D imaging

Microbiome

Immunolabelling

Examples of R&D capabilities

Mimeskin®

… to find the biologically active fractions among millions of plant materials!

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Introducing rambutan –the hairy superfruit from Vietnam

Humid tropics

The fruits are collected mainly from July to September on domesticated trees in the south of Vietnam. Then the fruits are manually opened to separate the different parts.

Family: SapindaceaeSpecies: Nephelium lappaceum L.Origin: Vietnam

2000 – 5000 mm

Sunny places, except for young trees

22 – 30 degrees Celsius

Present in Southeast Asian countries such as Vietnam, Thailand and China.

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A superfruit: exploring its hidden bioactive ingredients

… strengthens the collagen and elastin network

… visibly reduces the appearance of wrinkles

… improves skin elasticity

The leaf… The pericarp…

… strengthens the skin barrier function

… improves skin hydration

… re-energizes skin cells

The seed…

… protects the scalp from pollution

… moisturizes scalp skin

… refreshes hair strands

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00,5

11,5

22,5

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Nephoria®at 0.03%

The leaves rejuvenate mature skin

Impact on dermal genes

ELN*

FBLN5*

COL1A2*

P4HA2*

P4HA1*

CYR61 (CCN1) *

Statistics:Mean +/- SEM, n=4Student test vs untreated control, (*) p<0.05scale shows fold increase of gene activity due to bioactive from 4 experiments

Pronounced elasticity and firmness effects confirmed

Mode of action:An aqueous extract of leaves acts on the creation of new collagen and elastin fibers and improved 3D assembly of the fibers.

Target genes:COL1A2: Collagen Type I Alpha 2 ChainP4HA1: Prolyl 4-Hydroxylase Subunit Alpha 1P4HA2: Prolyl 4-Hydroxylase Subunit Alpha 2CYR61(CCN1): Cysteine Rich Angiogenic Inducer 61FBLN5: Fibulin-5ELN: Elastin

„PCR“ = Polymerase Chain Reaction

≈ 400 genes in our chromosome are known

“dermal genes“

88 of these dermal genes are most relevant for bioactives

Rambutan leaves activate dermal genes according to

PCR array tests6

“Evergreen leaves for ever-young skin”

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The pericarps protect skin from dehydration

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© BASF BCS © BASF BCS © BASF BCS

© BASF BCS © BASF BCS © BASF BCS

1 Cell energy reload

x27

ATP

With 0.5% aqueous extract of pericarps

Strongerstratum corneum


+79%

Involucrin

Increased cell moisture


+81%

Taurine

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Extract of pericarps

“ATP“ = Adenosine-triphosphate

In vitro impact on epidermal biology In vivo: MoistureMap® method (darker pixel = more hydrated)

Placebo

The extract protects the skin from drying out as the peel preserves the juicy rambutan fruit from dehydration.

Result: skin hydration +7% vs. baseline

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The seeds provide a breath of fresh air for your hair

Devitalized hair bulb with a low level of energy (ATP)

Hair bulb cellunder pollution

Vital hair bulb cell

Revitalized hair bulb with a high level of energy (ATP)

Dermal papillaein situ

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Dermal papillae cells2D culture

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Aggregate3D culture

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+35%

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ATP expression

No. of dead cells

Hair follicle model, exposed to B[a]P

“ATP“ = Adenosine-triphosphate energy that the hair bulb cells can use to increase cellular activity and make the hair grow B[a]P = Benzo[a]pyrene model substance to study pollution

Concept Study Results

Just as the seed provides energy to rambutan’s fruit for its development, an aqueous extract of seeds revitalizes the hair from root to tip.

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Beyond biochemistry: the ambition of the rambutan program

Reinforce good workingpractices and fair income to the rambutan-dedicated field workers

Value creation by upcycling different parts of the plant … to foster a better local impact

Resource

Preserve and develop a natural capital

Explore every part of the resource

Partnership People & know-how

Build a reliable supply chain in collaboration with local actors for the sustainable production of rambutan

Commitment to ensure sustainable sourcing of rambutan in Vietnam.

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Our partners

Organic certification

Management & farmers’ support

Identification of main sustainability challenges

Proposition of measures

Yearly audit

Garden maintenance

Harvest and processing

Landowners

Local management

Fruit canning

Supply chain supportive actions

BASF

Partners to ensure a reliable supply chain

Trustedlocal supplier

A network offarmers

The rambutan-dedicated

field workers

Third parties

Partnerships ensure social and qualitystandards and a reliable supply chain.

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2 hectares – 150 Java trees

25 – 30 years

Dong Nai province

1 hectare – 47 Java trees

25 – 30 years

Dong Nai province

In 2017, we reinitiated the cultivation of two rambutan gardens …

2018 2018

Organic rambutan gardens in Vietnam1st

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… this year, we harvested the organic fruits for the cosmetic market.

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Benefits for the local dedicated rambutan field workers …

Strengthened safety-related working conditions: access to individual and collective protection equipment

Dedicated training

Formalized work

Incomes above local practices, including bonus

Gender equity

Health & safety insurance

Free meals

Fringe benefits

Labor conditions Incomes

… thanks to the local partners’ & BASF’s commitments.

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BASF’s rambutan program at a glance

Innovative ingredients to answer the growing trend of responsible beauty.

Upcycling different parts of the treecombined with perfect traceability

Seed

Pericarp

Leaf

A set of new solutions with multiple benefits for skin care and hair care

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The rambutan programNext steps

Capture more customers with rambutan range

Increase the number of gardens accordingly

Enlarge applications & claims possibilities

Continue support of local communities

Draw inspiration and learnings to further develop sustainably sourced bioactives

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2020

Ensure the social and commercial success of the rambutan range and initiate further sustainable programs

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the rambutan program: organic feedstocks, sourced sustainably

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