the jeweller magazine february 2010 issue

The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair previewBridal trends 2010Brand profile – Seiko

JewellerJan/Feb 2010 £6.50 The Voice of The Industry

the

The Jeweller is produced in conjunction with the British Jewellers’ Association

Jewellerthe

Wedding RingsTo book an appointment with a member of our sales team or for a free brochure please contact 0121 237 4772 or email [email protected]

See us at the Spring Fair, stand N40

The Voice of the Industry 3

Contents l

LJE goes to Munich 32

London Jewellery Exports is returning this year to

Inhorgenta. Lindsey Straughton gives us a preview

of who will be participating and the eclectic mix

of products they will be offering.

Japanese lessons 36

Kirsten Crisford, the UK marketing manager for

iconic Japanese watch brand Seiko, tells Jo Young

about the brand’s plans for growth and product

development across Europe and the UK.

Nice day for a white wedding 44

The recession is showing no signs of causing

a slowdown in bridal jewellery spending, says

Amy Gregson – and white metals are set to be

this year’s big sales story.

Let the show commence! 58

The Jeweller’s annual guide to what’s on,

what’s new and what’s happening at this year’s

Jewellery Show at Spring Fair.

C O N T E N T S J A N / F E B 1 0

The National Association of Goldsmiths78a Luke Street, London EC2A 4XG Tel: 020 7613 4445 www.jewellers-online.org

Editor: Jo YoungTel: 020 7739 0895Mob: 07507 347 [email protected]

BJA Marketing & PR Manager Lindsey [email protected]: 0121 237 1110

CUBE Publishing

Sales Director: Ian FrancisTel: 020 7833 5500

[email protected]

Art Director: Ben [email protected]

Publisher: Neil [email protected]

Contributors:Amy Gregson, Michael Ferraro,

Neil McFarlane, Greg Valerio,

Stephen Whittaker

The Jeweller is published by CUBE Publishing on behalf of theNational Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members.For further information about The Jeweller please visit:www.thejewellermagazine.com

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has metacceptable environmental accreditation standards.

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the N.A.G. disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claimwhatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are forguidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers.The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in TheJeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

Communiqué 4

Editor’s Comment 7

Industry News 8

NAG News 20

BJA News 25

The Jeweller Picks… 28

Antique Jeweller 54

IRV Review 72

Ethical Jeweller 79

Training & Education 82

Opinion: John Henn 88

Insurance Matters 90

Opinion: Neil Oakford 94

Appointments 95

Display Cabinet 96

The Last Word 98

Cover ImageIn conjunction with Just J

DMJ, Redworth Road, Shildon,County Durham, DL4 2JT

Tel: 01388 770870Web: www.dmj.info

The Jewellery Show/ Spring FairHall 17, stand N18, P19, and L01

JewellerThe Voice of The Industry www.thejewellermagazine.com

the

Numerous members have contacted me over recent months to express

their concern that they are being squeezedout of the insurance replacement business,as the big insurers and big multiple retailersteam up to satisfy customer replacementneeds through voucher schemes. As members have been at pains to point out,this is not always a satisfactory solution for customers who want the freedom toselect their replacement items from a jeweller of their choosing. This can bebecause of an existing relationship with theirpreferred jeweller, the wider selection theyoffer, or the expectation of good ongoingcustomer service.

Insurers, ever mindful of profit marginsand investor value, have increasingly reliedon supply chain partnerships to keep theircosts down. The car repair industry, for one,has seen dramatic changes in the way itsbusiness is done. Gone are the days whenyou would get three quotes for fixing a‘prang’ and the insurance company wouldaccept the best one. The same is true formany white goods, electrical, and domesticreplacements. But, as you would be quick to point out, an engagement ring isn’t like a fridge: it isn’t simply a commodity in theeyes of the beholder.

The NAG realised this was an emergingtrend some years ago, and set up the NAGReplacement Scheme as a way of keepingsmaller independent jewellers in the game.But, to misquote, ‘A prophet is without honourin his own land’, and we were unable getenough members on board to gain any traction, with the end result that the insurershave had it all their own way – almost! Backin 2001 the Insurance Ombudsman (sincesubsumed in the Financial OmbudsmanService) issued guidance that seemed toshow that customers could insist on theirright to go to a jeweller of their choosing,and this guidance has given many the fortitude to do just that.

However, time moves on. More jewelleryitems than ever are now covered undergeneral household policies, fewer peopleread the small print of their policies and the Financial Ombudsman appears to have diluted its guidance by allowing insurers totake whatever measurers they like, so longas they are ‘fair and reasonable’.

Now, the view one takes on what constitutes ‘fair and reasonable’ will, of course,

depend very much on which side of the fenceyou are standing, and to many small jewellersthis looks like yet another way of tilting theplaying field against them. With this in mind,we wrote to the Financial OmbudsmanService (FO) seeking clarification, and a subsequent chance meeting gave me theopportunity to press home our concerns.

Our conclusion, based upon the advicegiven to us and on a case study provided bythe technical desk, is that the position hasnot changed to any material degree fromthat in 2001. The Financial Ombudsmanstill accepts the general right of the insuredto insist on going to the jeweller of theirchoice if the item is of particular importanceor value, but notes that policy terms andconditions may undermine this.

Under general household cover, insurersretain the option to repair, replace or cashsettle claims by dint of the small print within their contracts, and unfortunatelymany clients accept this without question.The test of whether the insurer is being ‘fair and reasonable’ is then applied to thedispute by the FO, and in appropriate casesthey may support the insurer.

I think it is worth stressing that we cameaway from our discussions having beenreminded that the FO’s 2001 news article

cannot be regarded as a ‘ruling’ but, more accurately, as guidance on how theFO approaches specific subjects. In otherwords, the FO’s role is to mediate, not toregulate. Equally, its decisions are based on what is regarded as fair in the circumstances, not on law, regulations, oreven previous decisions.

Furthermore, while the FO is sympathetic,it is not particularly attuned to complaints

M I C H A E L H O A R E ’ S

CommuniquéThe NAG’s CEO reports on his month includes thestate of the insurance replacement market and the availability of interest-free credit.

| Comment

4 The Jeweller Jan/Feb 2010

The FO sees its remit as protecting consumers and notredressing inequalities in the business environment.

brought by business, as it sees its remit as protecting consumersand not redressing inequalities in the business environment.

Taking all of the above into account, we advise members to havecopies of our advice leaflet Insuring Personal Jewellery (which can bedownloaded from the website www.jewelleryvaluers.org) on handfor clients. We suggest too that they encourage clients to complainvigorously to their insurers if they do not meet their expectations, andto think seriously about involving the FO at an early stage should thisissue arise. Only in this way can we further highlight the situation.

Would you credit it?

Recently a number of members have mentioned the difficultiesthey have experienced in getting interest-free credit for their

businesses, and I think it is worth considering the subject for amoment. As many of you know, the NAG enjoyed a long and fruitful relationship with Black Horse, which provided members withinterest-free credit on terms which we can see, with hindsight, werehighly favourable. Running parallel with Black Horse, and in order to offer members a choice, we also struck up a relationship withHitachi Finance a number of years ago. Last year, when the bankingand financial crisis struck, Black Horse unilaterally withdrew its interest-free credit scheme from the NAG and all the other associations withwhich it was involved. Hitachi didn’t withdraw, however, and hasstuck with the jewellery sector, albeit with conditions attached.

In an effort to provide members with an interest-free creditscheme, my colleague Amanda Reavell has gone to exhaustivelengths to find an additional source, and earlier in the year thoughtshe had found a suitable supplier in the form of a subsidiary of aFrench bank. However this initial optimism faded when the bank in question conducted a risk assessment and determined that practically none of our small to medium sized members would passits criteria. In the light of this disappointment, Amanda has goneback to the drawing board and has, just days ago, established contactwith an organisation that is trying to put together a package for agroup of associations.

It is clearly too early to raise your hopes at this stage, but we havebeen working hard on your behalf. However, until the worldwidefinancial crisis lifts and the banking sector regains some level of stability, interest-free credit is not going to be easy to come by forany business. Jewellers, in particular, will have to raise their volumesand demonstrate that such credit is central to their marketing strategy before any of the banks or finance houses will do businesswith them without protecting themselves. I will keep you posted on developments.

And finally…

Due to an historic new liaison with the British Jewellers’Association, this is the first edition of The Jeweller to carry

news and views from our friends in the designer-maker and manufacturing sector, confirming this magazine’s status as a ‘mustread’ publication. I look forward to some lively debates!


Comment |

raphaelT H ETM

C O L L E C T I O NLuxury Diamond Wedding Bands For Him

32–34 Greville Street London EC1N 8TBTel: 020 7242 1080 Fax: 020 7831 1080

E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.gemex.biz

Est. 1967DIAMOND MERCHANTS–MANUFACTURERS

F/G VS Quality Diamonds

Platinum

18 Carat

Palladium 950

www.theraphaelcollection.com

Hall 17 — Stand R29Birmingham Spring Fair

7–11 February 2010


Comment |

Dear All,

Happy New Year to you…! Hope you all saw the year in with much festivity?

A new year is, for many people, a time for self-reflection, change and improvement, and for

us at The Jeweller, 2010 is already proving to be just such a time. Have we all given up

the booze and fags, you ask? No, nothing quite as radical and absurd. Rather, we have been

looking at the magazine and busily devising ways of raising our game, improving our offer to

all our readers.

As many of you already know, the magazine is now going to be sent to you ten times a year,

up from the six issues per year that we previously produced. This move will allow us to bring

you more up-to-date news, more tailored features and a more frequent and informative

offer overall.

A second exciting move – one that is explained in greater detail by the BJA’s Geoff Field

later in the issue – is the new relationship, formed at the beginning of the year, between the

NAG and the BJA. From this issue onwards, the BJA will be contributing regular features

and ideas to this magazine, further strengthening not just The Jeweller’s editorial remit, but the

magazine’s position overall in the marketplace.

The third, and hopefully most immediately evident change (fanfare, please) is the magazine’s

new look. As you will see from the issue that you currently hold in your hands, the magazine

has been given a major overhaul by The Jeweller’s splendid art team. The new look is

designed to be fresher, cleaner and easier to read – a better template on which to present

to you our (if I say so myself) relevant and readable editorial. We hope that you like the

new look, but welcome any comments good or bad – your feedback is vital to our getting

the magazine right.

In one final change to the programme, I will this month be leaving my role as editor of the

magazine, to move onto pastures new. It has been an honour to edit The Jeweller and a real

pleasure to work both with my publishing team and with so many great people from the

jewellery industry that I love. I am very proud of what we have achieved with this magazine;

I think the exciting new developments mentioned above are proof in themselves that

The Jeweller is stronger today than it has ever been, and I am delighted to be leaving the

magazine in such good shape.

It remains only to wish you all well for 2010, and hope it brings great things for all the

magazine’s readers personally and, of course, professionally.

Bye, and all the best!

Jo

Jo Young, Editor Email: [email protected]

“In the past we were

seen as a mid-level watch

producer. Our intention

is to change this image

to high end.”

“Consumers are becoming

more adventurous with the

settings of engagement

rings. While the classic,

round brilliant Tiffany

setting is still a very big

seller, more unusual settings

are gaining popularity.”

Page 36

Page 44

Editor’sLetter

This month:

| Industry News


Retail sales rose by 4.2 per cent for thecrucial month of December, said the

British Retail Consortium (BRC), a perform-ance figure that the organisation describedas being “stronger than we had dared hope”.

According to the BRC-KPMG Retail SalesMonitor, retail sales values were up 4.2 percent on a like-for-like basis from December2008, which had turned in one of the weakest monthly performances of that yearafter the collapse of the financial markets. Ona total basis, sales rose 6 per cent against a1.4 per cent decline in December 2008.

Food sales growth was most positive,experiencing its strongest performancesince the summer, while clothing andfootwear sales were boosted by the winterweather. Homewares sales showed furthergains but against larger declines a year ago.Furniture slowed but health and beautypicked up, helped by Christmas gifting.

Perhaps most notably, non-food non-store sales (sales made online, by mail orderor over the telephone) were a startling 26.5per cent higher than a year ago, comparedwith a 16.9 per cent rise experienced inNovember. Many of those retailers offeringtransactional websites benefited from customers buying online instead of goingout when the weather was at its worst inDecember and January.

Meanwhile, footfall figures from SynovateRetail Performance showed that the 28thDecember Bank Holiday was the busiestshopping day of 2009 overall, with thenumber of people out shopping at non-foodretail outlets on Monday 1.2 per cent higherthan the previous busiest day of the year(Saturday 19th December, the final Saturdaybefore Christmas Day) and a full 27.5 percent busier than Boxing Day, Saturday 26thDecember 2009.

Synovate spokesman Dr Tim Denisonexplains, “These latest figures confirm thatthe start to the winter Sales has been anexceptionally busy one, and will satisfy most retailers”. He gave warning, however,that the encouraging signs from the

post-Christmas sales period should be conservatively interpreted.

“We must be cautious about these figures.I don’t believe that this is symptomatic of adramatic bounce back in consumer confi-dence. The strong performance is anchoredaround consumers considering making someexpensive household purchases before theVAT rate returns to 17.5 per cent in January,and the footfall is also reflective of the

fact that most retailers resisted going tomainstream Sale before Christmas. Indeedit is only since Christmas that shoppers arefinding bargains on the high street. In thisregard then, the bubble is somewhat artificialand should not be taken to mean that consumers feel the recession is behindthem. Sadly, 2010 may well prove even moredifficult for retail than 2009 has alreadybeen,” he said.

Retailers cautiously optimisticabout Christmas performance


Industry News |

Online auction site eBay has today been ordered by the French courts to pay LVMH, the owner of the Louis Vuitton brand, a €1.7m (£1.5m) fine for failing to prevent the

sale of LVMH products on its website. The ruling comes after a French court issued an historic injunction in July last year, which

barred eBay from hosting the sale or purchase of any LVMH products on its site, irrespectiveof their authenticity. Over 1000 LVMH products were found to have been listed on the sitefollowing the ban.

The injunction was part of the French authorities’ tough crackdown on the auction giant,which had come under intense scrutiny from luxury brands angry at the alleged sale of fakedgoods on the eBay site.

In addition, eBay received a fine for failing to prevent counterfeit goods being sold on its site.

Hitting back at the fine, eBay said that the court decision went against consumer interests,imposing what it called “the selective distribution” of goods. It argued that it had compliedwith the ruling of the injunction by using specialised software to prevent French shoppersfrom accessing LVMH products on its site.

Intellectual property firm Marks & Clerk recently conducted a study into online sales. It found that brands are highly concerned about protecting their brand profile online; of 216businesses surveyed, 75 per cent believed that they needed stronger protection frominfringement online, with 61 per cent calling for stricter controls over counterfeiting online.Just over half (55 per cent) were in favour of stronger penalties being imposed on auctionsites like eBay.

“Today’s ruling and the attempts by eBay to comply with the injunction prove just how difficult it is to police brands online. The French courts have also tended to look morefavourably on brand owners than most other jurisdictions, which explains their tough stance.

Undeniably, the French authorities are the most unwavering when it comes tochampioning the luxury goods trade – yettoday’s ruling will not necessarily result insimilar decisions elsewhere in Europe,”said Pam Withers, partner at the firm.

Luxury jewellery brand Theo Fennell said that sales have increased markedly in recentweeks, following the return of the company founder.

Sales, it said, increased by 38 per cent in the weeks before Christmas, giving a boost tothe firm’s recovery plans. Customer demand is already improving, according to the group,which reported the like-for-like sales leap in the two months since October 1, with a slightlyhigher 39 per cent increase in business in the first two weeks of December.

The recent sales hike is good news for the business, to which Fennell made his return inJune; the management team have a significant job ahead to bring the company back to profitability. In the half year to September 30th, the company reported a widening of lossesfrom £840,000 to £1.1m, and like-for-like sales for the period dropped by 20 per cent.

Theo Fennell said trading for its new PHI collection, the company’s first new collection fortwo years, was ahead of expectations. “The board… is confident that the first steps havebeen made to return the company to long-term profitability,” said chairman Rupert Hambro.

Theo Fennell sales improve in Christmas run-up

Ebay fined £1.5 million in Louis Vuitton row

Romain Jeromeappoints ex-Swatchman as CEO

Swiss watch firm Romain Jerome hasannounced the appointment of Manuel

Emch as its new CEO.Emch, a Swiss national, joins the company

from the Swatch Group, where he has beensince 2001, and where he is best knownfor having successfully revitalised the Jaquet Droz brand, “transforming it into oneof the finest references in the field of finewatchmaking”. Emch also belonged to theSwatch extended management board, with responsibility for several regions,including Russia, parts of Eastern Europeand central Asia.

The winner of several watch design awards,Emch comes with a strong background inbrand identity and consolidation.

This, “he ably demonstrated at JaquetDroz, notably by initiating and designing two of his ‘brainchildren’: the iconic GrandeSeconde and the now legendary Machine àEcrire le Temps. He also brings to RomainJerome his considerable experience in the fields of production and sales, havingcontributed to the construction of the newJaquet Droz manufacturing facility; as wellas supervising the creation of a worldwidedistribution network including 200 points ofsale and six own-name boutiques,” saidRomain Jerome in a company statement.

In his new role, Emch will oversee thecompany’s new investments in production,marketing and distribution.

GIA hosts exhibition of international platinum designers

| Industry News


The Gemological Institute of America(GIA) is hosting a major new platinum

jewellery exhibition at its museum inCarlsbad, California, which will showcase 17award winning platinum pieces from aroundthe world.

The exhibition, which has been puttogether by the Platinum Guild International(PGI), is comprised of work by a range ofinternational designers, with the pieces inthe exhibition being shown together for the first time in the US.

“The exhibition showcases talenteddesigners from all over the world who

choose to work in platinum because of itsnatural beauty and durability. These worksof art are truly an international collaborationfeaturing pieces from China, Japan, Italy,India, South Africa, Germany and the US,”said James Courage, chief executive officerof the PGI.

Highlights from the exhibition includepieces from the PlatAfrica design competitionand the Aqua Collection, as well as severalother award-winning platinum creationsdesigned by Gurhan, Kirk Kara, MarkSchneider, Michael B., Tom Munsteiner,Danhov and Krikawa. Designs include a

platinum bracelet set with a 29.26 carataquamarine, and a platinum men’s ring set with 171 micro-pavé diamonds and an 11.54 carat, beautifully-cut indicolite blue tourmaline.

The five PlatAfrica pieces featured in theexhibition are winners of a platinum jewellerydesign competition from professional jewellers and students in South Africa.

“We are honored that PGI has chosen the GIA Museum to display these items,”said Terri Ottaway, the curator at the GIAmuseum. “This is a wonderful opportunityto share with others the beauty, creativityand craftsmanship involved in designingjewellery, and specifically, learning moreabout platinum.”

The Best in Platinum exhibition will be ondisplay at the GIA Museum, which is free tovisit, until April 30, 2010.

Gold investors are buying more goldthan buyers of jewellery, for the first

time in over three decades. According toGFMS, the consultancy that compilesbenchmark supply and demand data for themetals industry, demand for gold within theinvestment sector doubled in 2009 to1,820 tonnes, while gold jewellery buyingsuffered a 23 per cent slump to 1,687tonnes, a 21 year low for the industry.

The figures demonstrate the scale of therole played by bullion investors in pushing upthe gold price to the record high of $1,226.10a troy ounce, which was registered inDecember last year.

Philip Klapwijk, the executive chairman of GFMS, said that though it was probablethat more gold investment would take placethis year, the market would likely becomeincreasingly vulnerable to a major change

in price once the general circumstances surrounding investment – such as theweakness of the US dollar – changed. “Asthe macroeconomic environment gradually normalises, the gold market’s dependenceon investment will become all too apparent,with a substantial price retreat at that pointon the cards,“ he said. The surge in goldprices, from $250 an ounce in 1999 to last year’s record, has hit jewellery sales –traditionally the core of gold consumption –badly. GFMS said jewellery demand had fallen by almost half since 1997.

Investors buy more gold than customers

The UK Assay Offices have announced that the palladium hallmark [which was introducedon a voluntary basis in July 2009] is to be revised. The move has been made following

concerns that the trapezium shape used to encase the palladium fineness mark is not sufficiently distinguishable from that used for the platinum fineness mark. The fear is the possibility that, as the marks become worn, it may become difficult to distinguish betweenthe two. This is a particular concern as no quick ‘acid’ test is available for platinum groupmetals and, should the marks become worn, it will be almost impossible for retailers to identifywhether a white metal object is platinum or palladium.

To overcome this problem, the fineness element of the hallmark [which became compulsoryon 1st January 2010] has been altered and takes the form of three interlocking ovals.

The 32,000 articles of palladium that have already been hallmarked will not be recalledfor remarking, and look set to become the collectors’ items of the future. Suppliers who havealready bought punches featuring the originalmark will, however, require replacements. A statement from the UK Assay Offices statesthat this “will be a matter for negotiationbetween the Assay Offices and their customers”.

The Jeweller’s November issue carried anin-depth feature about the new hallmarkand is available to NAG members online at:www.thejewellermagazine.com

| Industry News


Palladium hallmarkdesign to be revised

Iconic British jewellery firm Boodles is con-sidering a joint venture in the Middle East,

after turning in a strong sales performanceduring the crucial Christmas period.

Boodles’ joint managing director MichaelWainright believes that the worst may be overin terms of the crisis in the luxury good sector,and having seen a marked increase indemand from Middle Eastern customers forBoodles product, he believes the time maynow be right to take the brand to this wealthyand potentially highly lucrative new market.

Wainwright said he was planning a visit to Saudi Arabia in January, for a series ofmeetings with potential partners in the region.

He said that the growth in demand experienced at Boodles in recent monthswas fuelled significantly by buyers from theMiddle East, Russia and China, and said hebelieved that furthering the company’soperations internationally would help fuelthe business back home.

“[A joint venture] will not only create salesout there but also fuel sales in our SloaneStreet and Harrods stores, because customersfrom the region regularly come to London inthe summer months,” he said in a recentinterview with the Financial Times.

Boodles, which was founded in 1798, hasbeen in the same family for six generations.

With a recently opened flagship on London’sNew Bond Street, the company sells jewellerywithin a vast £1,000 to £400,000 pricerange. Like-for-like sales at the firm were up20 per cent in December, compared withthe year before, although they are still downa full 10 per cent on 2007’s numbers.

Luxury groups suffered alongside otherretailers after the onset of the financial crisislast year, but the impact of the recessionhas, according to the latest research, beenless than first feared. Consultancy Bain & Coexpects sales of luxury goods to have fallen8 per cent in 2009, after adjusting its earlierforecast of a 10 per cent drop.

Boodles plans move into Middle East

Pandora UKappoints Bransomexclusive supplier ofits EPoS systems

Following the success of the first 27 concept stores opened in 2009, Bransom

has been chosen as the sole supplier ofEPoS systems for jewellery brand Pandorato achieve its goal of opening a further 60 concept stores in 2010.

Bransom will implement its BSMART StockManagement and EPoS system into all new Pandora stores and provide a bespoketraining plan for all staff and store owners.The system will be pre-loaded with all thePandora products, barcodes and images,with an automated re-ordering system linking directly into the Pandora orderingsystem to improve stock replenishment.The concept stores will also benefit fromautomatic update of Bransom’s system withnew products and prices.

Bransom will also be feeding daily salesinformation directly back to the Pandoraintranet site for KPI reporting and dataanalysis, which will include footfall and conversion rate information.

Peter Anderson MD of Pandora, said, “To achieve our aims we need an IT partnerto work with. Bransom was chosen becauseit provides the unique blend of size, reputation, experience, and infrastructurerequired to undertake and support a projectlike this.”

Tel 01271 329123 Email [email protected] Web www.kitheath.com

Spring FairHall 18, G30/H31

| Industry News


Halifax jeweller Lister Horsfall, which hasclocked up more than 100 years of

retail trading, has undertaken a major£200,000 refurbishment at its store.

The company celebrated the completionof the renovation work by hosting a champagne reception for its customers.

The company has traded from the sameshop in the Corn Market in Halifax towncentre since 1902, having started out as the Little Diamond Shop under the management of company director NickHorsfall's great-grandfather, Lister.

As part of the makeover, a new dedicatedRolex boutique, designed in Geneva, hasbeen installed, while the original woodenshopfront has been kept in place. The work,the first major refit the store has undergonein 30 years, was completed in five weeks.The company, which operates a secondstore in Ilkey, West Yorkshire, has also taken

on an additional in-house jeweller to run theworkshop as part of a two-person team.

"We wanted to take it back to basics,keeping with the traditions but yet being

functional and displaying the products in a better way. We want to be a destinationstore as well as look after people in Halifax,”said Horsfall.

Lister Horsfall celebrates makeover

Swiss jeweller and watchmaker Piaget has taken on what is being called ‘the most expensive shop in the UK’ on London’s high end jewellery destination, New Bond Street,

where it will make its UK retail debut.According to Irish property investor Aidan Brooks, who brokered the deal, the company’s

parent Richemont has agreed to pay a rent of £965 per sq ft for the store at 169 New BondStreet, which the company had earmarked as the ideal location for Piaget’s debut UK store.The 3,500 sq ft store will be the first UK flagship for Piaget, which takes over the store fromItalian jewellery house Bulgari. Bulgari itself is downsizing its own retail storefront, havinggiven over approximately a third of its unit to be rented out. Piaget already operates its ownboutiques in France, Russia, Switzerland and the Ukraine, and its products are sold throughauthorised retailers in 35 countries across Europe.

The deal smashes the previously held record for retail rent, which was set up by Italianfashion house Dolce & Gabbana, which is understood to have paid a rent of £820 per sq ftfor a store on the same street. The deal shows that, despite the downward pressure onrentals being experienced elsewhere in the UK, rents in the West End are still at a premium.

Piaget, a brand ‘stablemate’ of Richemont Group’s Cartier, Montblanc and Dunhill brands, paid a Zone A rent, which is a rent calculated for the prime front-of-store section ofa shop. The deal is understood to have been signed for a 25 year lease at £745,000 per year. On New Bond St the recent average zone A rent has been calculated at around£600 per sq ft (€666). Aidan Brooks, who owns 171 New Bond Street, had previously set a record rent for the street in 2006 when he let that 3,000 sq ft store to US jewellerHarry Winston.

Accessorize insecond bid forUS success

High street fashion jewellery and accessoriesbrand Accessorize, an offshoot of the

fashion chain Monsoon, is to expand itsoperations into the US.

This is Monsoon’s second attempt to crackthe difficult North American market with itssecondary chain, following an initial launchof Monsoon/Accessorize in the US back in2001. It will open five stores initially, its first scheduled to open next month inWashington, the US capital. The secondstore is expected to open in New York city.

Back in 2001, Monsoon established ajoint venture with the US clothing retailerCharming Shoppes, a deal that saw arounda dozen Monsoon shops open in cities onthe east coast. The partnership was dissolvedand the stores closed in 2003 in the face ofstruggling sales throughout the fashionretail sector.

The company operates over 400 Monsoonand Accessorize stores across the UK, andalready operates internationally, in severalcountries in Europe and Asia.

Piaget pays record rentfor new Bond St store

jewellers’block

| Industry News


Jewellery chain Beaverbrooks saw itsannual profits for 2009 slump, as a

result of the recession and resultant slip inconsumer confidence.

The company generated ‘flat’ sales of£82.4m, and saw profits slide from £4.6min 2008 to £177,000. After stripping out an exceptional £2.5m gain last year, profitswere still down by around £2m in what thecompany’s directors called a “disappointingperformance”.

In a company report for the year to theend of February, the company’s directorsstated that the firm had fallen victim to theeconomic turbulence that began with the‘credit crisis’ in late 2008.

Managing director Mark Adlestone said,“The very serious problems encounteredwithin the banking sector from September2008 onwards, coupled with the UK

economy’s slide into recession in the lastquarter of 2008 and the ensuing tighteningof available credit lines for consumers, madefor very difficult Christmas trading period.

“In common with many other retailersthere is still a great deal of uncertainty concerning UK economic growth and consumer spending over the next 12 monthsand the directors are of the opinion the next financial year could be as difficult andchallenging as the 2009 year.”

The St Annes-based company opened fournew stores during 2008, in High Wycombe,Bristol, Livingston and in the Westfield shopping centre in west London. The firm,which regularly wins the prestigious accolade of ‘best company to work for’, maintained its philanthropic commitmentsduring the year, contributing more than£500,000 to charitable causes.

Adlestone said that the business was now“in better shape”, having initiated a series ofcost cutting measures, including initiating apay freeze and curbing store renovation costs.

“We have taken out more than 30 jobsthrough natural wastage – there have beenno redundancies and we have all taken apay freeze, which has significantly enhancedour cash position,” he said in a statement.

“We are very proud of our commitment tocharity. As well as financial contributionseach member of staff is given two days ayear to work with a local charity and we haveseen an amazingly good take-up of a payrollcharity giving scheme, which shows our staffare sharing our values.

“The financial figures I know don’t lookpretty, but there’s a lot of good work goingon in terms of social capital and that isimportant for us.”

Birmingham-based jewellery group Westonopened its doors to the local radio

station Radio West Midlands recently, givingvaluable exposure to the city’s JewelleryQuarter during the run-up to Christmas.

The station chose Weston Beamor, whichcomprises the lost wax casting firm of the same name and jewellery supplierDomino, as the location from which tohost its three hour earlier morning newsshow on 18th December.

The show’s presenter gave a jewellery‘slant’ to the entire show, and during the broadcast, several members of the group’s staffwere interviewed on air. Andrew Morton and Patrick Fuller, managing directors of WestonBeamor and Domino respectively, were among those who appeared on the show, givingtheir overview of the jewellery market.

Andrew Morton commented: “It was great fun having the show done from our premises,although it certainly provided us with some logistical difficulties at what is always one of ourbusiest times of the year. Jewellery is a traditional purchase at Christmas time and it waswonderful to able to share some of the fascinating techniques we use in its production”.

Weston Beamor playshost to local radio show

Jeweller editor JoYoung leaving fornew career path

Jo Young, editor of The Jeweller, is leavingthe magazine this month, to take up a

new career outside the magazine publishingindustry. From this month, she returns tofreelance journalism while studying for apost-graduate degree in education tobecome a full-time teacher.

The magazine’s publisher Neil Oakfordcommented: “We are sad to be losing Jofrom the team as she has made a verypositive and influential contribution to themagazine during her tenure as editor, further helping to develop The Jeweller’s‘voice’ within the sector. However, we arenot losing her totally as Jo will continue towrite for The Jeweller on a freelance basisas well as contributing to other retail andfashion sectors.”

The magazine will be edited for the presenttime by Belinda Morris. She can be contactedat: [email protected] For all otherenquiries, please call 020 7833 5500.

Beaverbrooks sees profits fallduring “challenging” year

Jack Murphy Jewellers gets major store refit

| Industry News


Well-known Newry jewellery firm JackMurphy has had a major store refit at

its premises on the city’s Hill Street. This gives the store a “new modern look

and feel”, into which the company will bringa number of new contemporary jewellerylines and new members of staff.

Owners Jack and Pat Murphy, who wentinto ‘semi-retirement’ last year, will continueto be involved in the business on the buyingside, but will now be joined by daughterGemma and recently-appointed manager,Kate Walker.

“The refit comes at a time when businesses need to look at growing theirbusiness and being prepared for the upturn.We have always been renowned for qualitydiamonds and exceptional customer service.This will continue, but we also hope to cater

for a new audience with the new shop layoutand the ranges the girls have introduced.

“It has been hard work over the last fewweeks with the upheaval of the refit, butthere is a great buzz about the shop at themoment. Despite the long hours and hassleof the refit I enjoyed the pressure; it was justlike old times again. Now that its complete I am looking forward to taking life easy againand seeing the changes the team bringabout,” said Jack Murphy.

Dutch watch firm TW Steel has signedthe popular Olympic swimmer Ian

Thorpe as its latest brand ambassador. The company, which specialises in over-

sized watch models, has announced thepartnership with the Australian sportsman

following the opening of the company’ssubsidiary office in Sydney last summer.Thorpe, who is a five time Olympic goldmedallist and an eleven-time World cham-pion in freestyle swimming, is the firstAustralian brand ambassador to represent

TW Steel, and the company hope his signingwill help push their product profile in whatis now one of its key markets.

Thorpe made his first public appearancefor the brand just before Christmas in Sydney,posing alongside TW Steel’s chief executiveofficer and owner Jordy Cobelens.

“I’m tremendously excited to have IanThorpe partner with TW Steel. He boasts anincredible sporting record at the Olympics andWorld Championships and is undoubtedlyone his country’s most recognised sportsambassadors, despite recently retiring fromcompetition. To have someone of Ian’s calibreassociated with TW Steel as we establish ourmarket presence in Australia, and of courseglobally, immediately gives further credibilityto the brand while further promoting ourshared values such as performance andexcellence,” said Jordy Cobelens at the event.

TW Steel, which operates in over 50countries worldwide, is also signed as theOfficial Timing Partner to the Renault F1team, in a partnership set to run from 2010 to 2012.

TW Steel signs Ian Thorpe to front Australian brand push

Long-standingEdinburgh jeweller shutsup shop

Continental Jewellers, a well-known inde-pendent jewellery firm on Edinburgh’s

Nicolson Street, is up for sale as the shop’sowner and company founder Ron Haggartyis set to retire.

Haggarty, who was born and raised inEdinburgh, opened the jewellery shop inthe city in 1979 and built the Continentalbusiness from scratch. He is now choosingto retire from the trade due to ill health and is hoping that he will be able to find anew owner ready to take over the store,which, according to Haggarty, has a turnover£500,000 per year.

| NAG News


Visit our stand atthe Jewellery Show

EDF members are indicating that theyhave experienced an 11 per cent rise in

Christmas trading for 2009, a remarkableachievement in the current economic cli-mate. During 2009, EDF members haveoutperformed most other jewellers, show-ing a marked increase in sales, improvedmargins and higher stock turns. They havehad the confidence to look at their busi-nesses from a different perspective, and tomake the necessary changes to improvetheir performance in a very challengingretail market.

EDF membership offers expert guidanceon retail and business management issues,best practice and development and appli-cation of relevant blueprints and formats forindividual businesses to apply. Beginningwith six fully facilitated meetings in the firstyear, with set topics for the first few meet-ings, the content then expands to includemembers’ individual and group specificrequirements.

A fifth group is now being formed. The costof this bespoke Retail Jewellery ManagementForum is £1,800 + VAT for members and£1,975 + VAT for non-members.

For more details on how to be part of theExecutive Development Forum, please contact Amanda White at the NAG on 020 7613 4445, or send her an email at: [email protected]

Council meeting

The first NAG Council Meeting for 2010 isto be held on Wednesday 10th March at

The Law Society’s Hall, Chancery Lane,London – a beautiful Georgian buildingestablished in 1832 to represent, help, protect and promote solicitors acrossEngland and Wales.

Starting at 10.30am with registration andtea and coffee, the formal Council Meetingwill begin at 11am in the Old CouncilChamber. Following this lunch will be servedat 1pm in the dining room.

For more information about the event,contact Ritu Verma on 020 7613 4445 oremail: [email protected]

EDF membershipcould help you to achieve morein 2010

The National Association of Goldsmithshas kicked off its 65th year of retail jew-

eller examinations with more excellent passrates for its JET examinations. An impressive84 per cent of students passed theProfessional Jewellers’ Diploma taken inOctober last year, while 70 per cent gainedtheir Professional Jewellers’ GemstoneDiploma.

“We are delighted with the results onceagain,” said Victoria Wingate, the NAG edu-cation manager. “These courses build staffconfidence, develop selling skills and prod-uct knowledge, which are so important in

the current economic climate. Ultimatelythese results will put money in the till.”

This year will mark 65 years since the firstNAG exam in 1945.

“The courses have been developing andevolving since 1945, but remain as vital asever. We have a few things planned to markthis milestone, starting with our summerholiday-themed promotion at Spring Fair inFebruary and, of course, the presentation ofawards in March,” said Wingate.

Successful exam candidates will receivetheir diplomas at a lavish awards ceremonyat Goldsmiths’ Hall on 10th March 2010.

65 years of exam success for NAG

The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair International is taking place this year between the 7th-11thFebruary 2010 at the Birmingham NEC and, once again, the biggest names in retail will

be showcasing thousands of innovative new products across a range of sectors. This year theNational Association of Goldsmiths (Hall 17, Stand Q40) will have a brand new look to thestand, and you will have a chance to meet all the familiar faces from NAG HQ.

On Monday 8th February at 4pm a champagne reception will be held to launch the newdesign makeover of our official publication, The Jeweller, which is published 10 times per year,now with editorial support and contributions from the BJA.

There will be plenty of opportunities to speak to The Jeweller’s editorial and publishingteam at the show, so join us for a glass of bubbly. We welcome your attendance.

If you are unable to attend this event and would like more details about the new-look magazine, please contact Neil Oakford on 020 7833 5500 or visit the The Jeweller onlineat: www.thejewellermagazine.com


NAG News |

New Member Applications

To ensure that NAG members are aware ofnew membership applications within theirlocality, applicants’ names are publishedbelow. Members wishing to comment onany of these applications can call HarshitaDeolia on 020 7613 4445 or email: [email protected] within threeweeks of receipt of this issue.

Ordinary ApplicationsRobertson’s Jewellers (Stuart Robertson)

Wadebridge, CornwallLapis Gold (Ilknur Uzunoglu), InvernessChapelle/Victoria House Jewellers (Paul Mortimer) Colwick, NottinghamRubinstein Keightley Ltd (Barry Barker MA FCISMBE/Dr Vira Barker/David Barker) Uppingham

Affiliate ApplicationsBliss Rings (Jason and Silvya Curtis)

Maidstone, Kent

Alumni ApplicationsKaren Margaret Storton (Tidworth)

Retired/Resigned in 2009• Levermill • Hilson • Teignmouth Jewellers • Georg Jensen • Owen Smart • Holts • Mark Thomas Jewellers • Eric Mitchell CMBHI• England Barker Jewellers • Louise Shafar • Kenneth Walker & Son • Hardys Jewellers • M Waterman Jewellers • Thomas’s • Mary Milnthorpe and Daughters • Stephens Jewellers • Gold Coast Jewellers • Dower & Hall • Martin Groundland & Co • Bradleys Jewellers (Albemarle & Bond) • Heritage Jewellers • Acton Jewellery • Bartholomews Jeweller • Leslie E Biles • Bentleys of Blackheath • Oswin & Co • Beardsalls (North Wales) • The Steensons • I J & D Blairs Jewellers • J B Gaynan & Son • Baubles The Jewellers • B M Graham• John Wilson Jewellers • Walter Bourke & Son• John Hazelden Jewellers

Lapsed in 2009• Phillips & Charles • Solitaire Jewellers • Stephen Ash • Lumbers of Banbury • Pomeroi Fine Jewellers • Finecraft Workshop • The House of Williams (Jeweller) • L Reich & Sons • Deemark Jewellery • Foxleys Jewellers • John Whyte & Son • Ogham Jewellery • Pawnbrokers Gold • Battle Goldsmiths • Bogues Jewellers• J J Browne & Son (Jewellers)

IRV Applications

If members wish to comment on any ofthese, please contact Sandra Page on(029) 2081 3615.

Upgrading from Member to FellowPeter J Hering PJDip PJValDip FNAG FGA DGA,

Cambridge.

Essential Window Display10th June / 14th October 2010 (London)Members £208, non-members £269 (+VAT)

This seminar, given by jewellery marketingexpert Judy Head, is aimed at those with noformal display training and includes instructionon the theory and practice of display. Youwill learn, through practical display sessions,how to promote buying occasions such asbirthdays and anniversaries by creating visually arresting displays in your shop.

How To Sell More Diamonds21st June 2010 (Birmingham)Members £208, non-members £269 (+VAT)

This seminar provides vital knowledge aboutdiamonds and the techniques jewellers needto sell them successfully. In only one day, atutor from diamond cutting firm Krochmal &Lieber will remove your apprehensiontowards diamonds and will improve yourconfidence and ability in selling diamonds.

Essential Selling23rd March / 28th September 2010 (London)Members £208, non-members £269 (+VAT)

After some years absence, we are delightedto have Nigel Amphlett providing this session.Nigel is a management consultant specialisingin training and management development,with over 20 years’ experience working withsome of Britain’s largest private and publicsector organisations.This one day seminar will improve your selling style, helping you to beat targets,convert sales and gain repeat/referral business and improve your confidence indealing with customer queries or concerns.

Learn To Value26th-27th April 2010 (London / two day) Members £335, non-members £496 (+VAT)

This intensive course is designed to teach thenecessary skills in appraisal and valuationmethodology. You will learn how to producea sound valuation document with accuratevalues, using available price sources andprovable methodologies.The instructor Brian Dunn has worked as aretail jeweller and valuer for over 40 years,and is a past Chairman of the NAG’sValuation Committee.

Diamonds And Diamond Grading 18th-19th May / 19th-20th October 2010(London / two day)Members £375, non-members £512 (+VAT)

With tuition from Eric Emms, the leading UKauthority on diamond grading, this seminaris designed primarily for retailers of diamondjewellery. Covering determination of diamondidentity, quality and value, it is presentedspecifically from a retailer’s viewpoint. Topics covered will include: identification,treatments, clarity grading, colour grading,symmetry and proportions and cut gradedetermination, carat weight estimation, current diamond economics and corporatesocial responsibility issues.The number of delegates attending isrestricted to ensure maximum benefit foreach attendee. A comprehensive range ofdiamond qualities, simulants, treatments, andsynthetics will be available for examinationand a full set of seminar notes will be given.

Diamond Grading In Antwerp26th-27th April, 10th–11th May (two day) Members £208, non-members £269 (+VAT)

Learn how to grade diamonds in just two days! The secret to this seminar’s success lies in plenty of practical work withdiamonds, combined with an individual follow-up of each student by an expert tutor.In addition, participants visit the renownedKrochmal & Lieber diamond cutting factory,together with a tour of the AntwerpDiamond District. Please note that the seminar fee for this course does not include travel andaccommodation.

For more information or to book your place, please contact Amanda White at theNAG on 020 7613 4445, or email her at:[email protected]

NAG Training Seminar Programme

The NAG 12 Days ofChristmas ChallengeThe answers to last issue’s competition were:A:6, B:10, C:8, D:2, E:5, F:12, G:1, H:11,I:9, J:4, K:7, L:3

| NAG News


What do you sell in your shop? “We sell 18 carat and 9 carat gold jewellery,silver and pearl jewellery and some secondhand jewellery too. We also sell watchesand some silver gift items. We aim to sellnice, well made items, as we feel it givescustomers good value for money. AlthoughI don’t work at the bench any more, I stilldesign pieces for customers and for stockso there are items unique to the shop.”

Given the recession, how has the lastyear been for you?“Christmas 2008 was a record for us and2009 has thankfully been OK. I think that isdown to the good, professional service thatwe offer here. One of my staff members,Julia, has her Professional Jewellers Diploma,Gemstone Diploma and a certificate for EricEmms’ diamond grading course. The only‘bad’ month was August, but that was incomparison to the previous year which hadbeen exceptional. We didn’t have too many

customers over Christmas but the badweather had a lot to do with that – a regu-lar customer of ours couldn’t even get intotown to pick up his turkey.”

What’s the year ahead looking like for you? “We’re going to revamp the windows. It’simportant to present a good image to thepublic. I think we’ll also be looking for somemore named pieces. One of our best sellersis the Paula Bolton range, but I think we’ll belooking for something more contemporary.I’m going to keep looking for new pieces soI have a good variety of stock; if you stopbuying, you stop selling.”

What makes your shop stand out inyour local area? “We have a lot of customers complimentingus on the shop and presentation. We alwaysaim to keep the shop looking nice byrepainting it every 18 months. Other than

that, we make sure customers are satisfied– recently, for example, a customer happilyspent a few thousand pounds after spendinga long time questioning us on rings andgemstones.”

Given that there are reports of therecession calming down, what are yourthoughts/comments on the jewelleryindustry at the moment? “I think there was a poor showing at thisyear’s IJL, and although I wasn’t able toattend Spring Fair, I understand that thereweren’t as many exhibitors as previousyears – probably because of the weather.Regardless of the circumstances, you haveto keep your nerve when times are tough. If you keep a nice stock of goods, you willsell. A lot of people are now buying from theinternet and TV, so they are preventingshops from large price increases.”

Most members I talk to have some of the most interesting anecdotes onmemorable customers – do you? “Here’s one that you can publish… Soonafter I bought the shop in 1975, I made one of my earliest sales to a lady who was buying herself a present for her 80thbirthday. At the time, she said that she wanted to buy it as an investment for thefuture – I thought this was a lovely idea,given that she was 80 years old. She livedto be 92 and her daughter sold the pieceback to me at a higher price than she hadpaid – so she was right!”

If you would like to be included as theMember of the Month in future issues, simply contact Harshita Deolia in the membership department or email her at:[email protected]

Member of the MonthMember of the Month is a new feature which will highlight NAGmembers, giving a snapshot of their business, their opinionsand experiences.

This issue Harshita Deolia talks to to Michael Naulls of M Naulls& Co, based in Louth in Lincolnshire, who has been a NAGmember since October 1975.

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BJA News |

The British Jewellers’Association is delighted

to be working in collabo-ration with the NationalAssociation of Goldsmithsin contributing to TheJeweller magazine.

As of now, our regularpublished communicationwith our members and with the widerindustry will be through our own dedicatedpages in The Jeweller, rather than throughour own long-standing house magazineJewellery in Britain – publication of whichhas now ceased to allow us to concentrateon this venture.

We are enthusiastic about the opportunitiesthat this arrangement will provide to ourmembers, who will now receive published

BJA news ten times each year rather thanquarterly, as was the case with Jewellery in Britain. We also believe that having supplier news and retail news together in onepublication will provide a broader picture ofthe industry to both sets of members, andoffers a unique opportunity to create greaterunderstanding across the supply chain.

Your feedbackWe would welcome feedback from mem-bers and non-members alike about manu-facturing topics or issues that they wouldlike to see in these pages and hope that asthey become familiar with The Jeweller, agreater number of our members willexplore the advertising and editorial optionsit offers them. Please contact Ian Francis atCUBE Publishing for advertising enquiries:

[email protected] or, to give your feedback,email Lindsey Straughton at the BJA: [email protected]

Services to retailersFor retail readers it is perhaps worth point-ing out that the British Jewellers’ Association can provide access to a database of some900 businesses, the majority of which arepotential suppliers to the retail jewelleryindustry. If you would like more informationabout the Association and its membership,please do not hesitate to contact me or amember of my team or visit our website at:www.bja.org.uk to find out more.

Credit checksA new facility on offer for 2010 is instantcredit checks, which are available on poten-tial new accounts from the BJA stand. Thechecks, which cost just £14, are run onlinethrough credit reference firm Experian, andare available instantly. “In these difficultfinancial times we believe this service willprovide welcome reassurance to members,”says Diane Thomas, membership servicesmanager at the Association.

Intellectual Property ServiceTrade fairs frequently bring a rash of intellectual property infringements and thespecialist IP lawyer Stephen Welfare and histeam, of the London firm Royds, will be

available on the BJA stand to provide freeon-the-spot legal advice to anyone whoneeds assistance.

Award-winning designsThe BJA stand will also provide a showcasefor the winning palladium designs in theAssociation’s new annual competition ‘TheBJA Award at The Jewellery Show’, which ithas organised with the support of SpringFair and the BJGF Federation.

Discount on new ArtCam software for BJA membersLeading rapid prototyping company Delcamis offering BJA members free ArtCAMJewelSmith software worth over £6,000.

Members must sign up for a three dayintensive training course at £650, afterwhich the software remains free if theyplace 18 model orders per quarter (six per month) to the online Delcam BureauService. Order tokens can be stored on thewebsite until they are required. Membersreceive a 50 per cent discount on their first quarter’s models and need only placenine models in their first quarter. This offer,exclusive to members of the Association,could feasibly save a company £450 in waxmodel costs alone. There is no minimumcontract and members can opt out at any time.

BJA members who sign up to discountedtraining course at £650 on the latestArtCam software, which is to be launchedby Delcam on Stand S59 Hall 17 at SpringFair will also receive a 50 per cent discounton their first quarters Delcam RP Bureauservice. For further information contact01216831120 or http/rp.delcam.com

The BJA team will of course be at the Jewellery Show at Spring Fair Birmingham onStand P40 in Hall 17. “We look forward to welcoming both existing and potential members to the stand and telling them more about the many benefits, services anddiscounts that membership brings,” says Lindsey Straughton, the Association’s PR andmarketing manager.

Welcome to theBJA in ‘The Jeweller’

BJA Chief ExecutiveGeoff Field

See the BJA at the Jewellery Show

| BJA News


Incoming chairman promises‘business agenda’ for BJAMike Hughes, the incoming chairman

of the British Jewellers’ Association,will be looking to inject some of his ownbusiness philosophy into the running of the national trade body when he takes over the role of Chairman from BarrieDobson at the beginning of this month.

Hughes, who is managing director of the Birmingham-based casting companyJewelcast, is a relative newcomer to the jewellery industry, although not to businessin general. In the course of a career whichspans estate agency, property, recruitmentand most recently jewellery production, the entrepreneur has built five successfulcompanies from scratch, and believes thatthe techniques he has employed can nowbe brought to bear on the Association.

“The jewellery industry has changed andcontinues to change and if the Associationis to have real relevance to its membership,it must reflect those changes,” he says. “Everybusinessman knows that if an enterprise is to prosper it must continually innovate, in order to deliver what its customers want and need. I look forward to workingwith the BJA team to evaluate theAssociation’s current list of services and

to see how they can be updated andimproved,” he said.

Hughes’ business model is straightforward.“You don’t need to over-complicate things. If you concentrate on just five areas – yourproduct, your customers and what they wantand need, the money ‘in’ and the money‘out’ and the training of the people withinyour organisation, you can’t go too far wrong,”he says.

It is certainly a model that has worked for Jewelcast. The company has expandedrapidly since Hughes acquired it seven

years ago; it now employs some 16 peopleand has established an excellent reputationfor casting, particularly in platinum and palladium. Despite the economic downturn,business is booming and Jewelcast hasrecently expanded into new premises tocreate more space for its growing customerservices team.

“I am looking forward to taking over thereins of the BJA from Barrie Dobson, who has done a great job and leaves theBJA in fine form with some 900+ members– the highest number in its long history.

“Hopefully by working closely with myvice chairman, Gary Williams of the Londonwedding ring manufacturer B&N, the nationalcommittee and the BJA staff, I can build further on Barrie’s foundations and deliver a service offer which will have widespreadappeal across our increasingly diversemembership base,” says Hughes.

Both Hughes and Williams will be formallyproposed as Chairman and Vice Chairmanof the Association at the BJA’s AnnualGeneral Meeting, which will take place atSpring Fair, on the evening of Tuesday 9thFebruary, 2010 from 6pm in the ConcourseSuite 33 at the NEC.

New committee member champions small designers

Cindy Dennis Mangan, of the designer jewellery company, Dennis & Lavery, will also bestanding for election to the National Committee at the Annual General Meeting.

Jewellery is a second career for Cindy, who in 1995 left a job in the City, managing shareholder communications for gold and diamond companies, to become more ‘hands on’in this industry. Having trained with the GIA in London in diamond-grading and jewellerydesign, she soon established Dennis & Lavery, which has workshops in London and Brightonand is already supplying some of the hottest names in jewellery retailing. The company alsosells online, offering a bespoke design service.

Cindy, who was shortlisted in the platinum bridal category in the 2009 UK JewelleryAwards, is particularly passionate about the promotion of small design-led businesses. She has recently helped establish the London marketing group JeDeCo: Jewellery Designers’Collective, and is, she says, looking forward to working with the BJA team to further theAssociation’s work on behalf of this growing element of its membership now standing at 250 Designer Craft members.

Jewellerthe

picks...

LORA LEEDHAMMidlands-based designer Lora Leedham –recently shortlisted for the Natwest every-woman awards for outstanding business-women – has created this simple yet strikingset of Orb cufflinks. Fitted with swivel fittings,the cufflinks are made in 9 carat gold withoxidised detailing, and retail at £125.

BREILTribe, a new watch range from the Italianbrand Breil, has been inspired by the high-end metallic trend. The collection of rosegold or steel cases and buckles lend thismasculine range an elegant feel, while theaddition of leather straps and diamante forwomen in the Globe and Urban seriesallow the wearer to move from a casual dayto a sophisticated evening look.

DOMINIC WALMSLEYWalmsley, creator of the Fingerprint and Year rings, has produced his latest unusual piece,the Heartbeat ring. For this ring, the designer uses a small portable ECG monitor (no, really)to take a person’s heartbeat, and engraves the rhythm perfectly onto a wedding band. The rings are available for men and women, and come in platinum, palladium and white andyellow gold.

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MADE BY EUGENEDesigner label Made by Eugene, which specialises in what retailer and stockist Kabiricalls “sometimes difficult to understand”accessories, has produced an unusual newline in leather jewellery/bodywear. Braziliandesigner Eugene Tsai, based in New York,has produced the pieces, pictured, to beworn in a variety of ways, as a keychain, beltor a necklace.

CINDY CHAOCindy Chao specialises in unconventional,luxury jewellery, and her distinctive designsare beginning to attract a growing numberof suppliers and fans. Her key Four Seasonscollection, which is now available to a retail clientele, is delicate and pretty, butstriking nonetheless for its elaborate use of gemstones.

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Some of the freshest Spring/Summer launches in jewellery and watches from organic-inspired luxurypieces to leather chains.

CRED JEWELLERYThe Penelope Collection is an elegant 13-piece set of rings, earring and necklacesinspired by the cocktail drinking ladies ofthe 1930's. The collection, from Cred jew-ellery, is made entirely from 18 caratFairtrade white gold by designer AnnabelPaynes. The gold, which is sourced fromOro Verde gold, is set with ethically sourcedgemstones including rhodalite, sapphireand amethyst. Prices start at £320.

ANNA HUFine jeweller Anna Hu has produced herlatest Love Knot collection “for all those in

love” this Valentine’s Day. Hu was inspiredby the ancient Chinese legend, ‘The RedString of Fate’, a story in which a marriagearranger tied invisible red thread around the ankles of men and women destined tobe soul mates. Using entwined curves to emulate this ‘magical’ cord, Hu has produced a series of gem-set pieces in 18carat white gold. Pictured, a ruby-set ringfeaturing 41 stones, priced at £2,350.

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ALESSANDRO BALDIERIItalian designer Alessandro Baldieri has just launched his first series of watch collections tothe UK market, and his newly-appointed distributors - Since 1853 – say interest has beenstrong. Baldieri’s latest End of Time collection, comprising three models, is one of those nowavailable to UK retailers; each timepiece features an oversized dial, digital movement and a black matt case with pushers. The watches are finished with a black canvas strap with abutterfly buckle. Retail prices start at £200.

KATIE ROWLANDAward-winning designer Katie Rowlandrecently unveiled a new series of limitededition gold and black rhodium knuckle-dusters – not the most subtle of jewellerychoices, but interesting enough to attractfans of quirky and collectible pieces. Retailprices are from £140 each.

PAUL PICOTSwiss watchmaker Paul Picot’s latest model,the Gentleman Arc-en-ciel, has beendesigned to adhere to the colours of therainbow – the name itself means rainbowin French. The watch displays each day of the week in a wide arched opening at 10 o’clock, with each day represented by a differentcolour of the rainbow. It has a self-windingmovement and comes with either a blackor silver dial. The watch features a high grade steel case, and is available in a blackor silver with a crocodile strap.

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HORUSHorus has released a new watch model,Fisico, which it has designed in honour ofGiancarlo Fisichella, the Italian Formula 1driver and the brand’s latest ambassador. The timepiece is a limited edition of justeight pieces, made in black gold and titaniumwith self-winding chronograph movements,and has been modelled on the workings ofa racing car. It features a stop start system,controlled by a single button – like an F1car – and has a strap made from black rub-ber, reminiscent of a car tyre.

VABENEAlready active in the Asia and the US, Italian brand Vabene is set to launch in the UK this Spring,bringing with it a number of its latest watch models (pictured). The high fashion collectionhas fans in several celebrities, including Madonna and Elton John. Retail prices start at £110.

COLEMAN DOUGLAS PEARLSPearl specialist Coleman Douglas’s MadameButterfly collection brings together themesof vintage glamour and romance, with itsuse of diamonds, pearls and brazilianite.The pieces in the collection have beeninspired, says the company, by the 1932movie Madame Butterfly; the film ofPuccini’s famous opera “captures the elegance and romance of the story”, combining an Asian love story with vintage Hollywood style.

PRISM DESIGNPrism Design has released its latest range ofwedding rings, called the Contour collection.The extensive range of 150 shaped ringscan be adapted in design and diamond set, and are available in gold, platinum and palladium. The company also offers abespoke service.

ICE WATCHFashion watch brand ICE-Watch has releaseda new collection for Valentine’s Day, calledLOVE ICE-Watches. In keeping with thebrand’s signature style of bright, vibrantcolours, the new range comes in a series ofcolours: Ice White, Hot Pink, Sultry Red, andDangerous Black, all with a heart motif onthe face and bezel. Chunky, and availablewith unisex 43mm and small 38mm dials,the new models have silicon straps andprices start at around £65 retail.

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KIRT HOLMESLondon-based jeweller Kirt Holmes has produced an eye-catching new range of ‘beaded-look’ cuff bracelets as part of her Spring/Summer collection. The bracelets, including theoversized version pictured, are made with sand opal Swarovski crystal and oyster pearls. The designer’s work regularly appears in high fashion magazines, including Vogue andHarpers & Queen, and her jewellery attracts a number of high profile clients including USactresses Charlize Theron and Scarlett Johansson.

GC WATCHESBella Class is the latest addition to the GCrange of Sport Chic watches. The casedesign, with its clean round bezel andmulti-layered case frame with four decora-tive screws, gives the watch a distinctive,softly-curved silhouette, which is comple-mented well by the urban feel of thesmooth steel link bracelet. The watchcomes in three different models and sizes:the feminine Mini Lady with a diameter of29 mm, the multi-function Lady in 33 mmand the sporty three-counter chronographin 36.5 mm.

SO JEWELLERYSo Jewellery has released six new designsas part of its popular So Male collection.The new additions bring the total collectionto 12 designs, which are intended to havea modern look but with timeless appeal.Made from silver with an anti-tarnish finishto promote high shine, some models aresimply silver while others are set with mother-of-pearl or onyx to add colour andcontrast. Priced at £65.

FORTISThe limited edition 2012 Fortis Spaceleaderby Volkswagen is an award-winning chrono-graph, due to be showcased by Fortis at thisyear’s upcoming BaselWorld exhibition. The model features an automatic movementwith 25 jewels, a high grade steel 43mmcase with pusher protection and a screw-down steel caseback and comes with a rubber strap with a folding clasp.

JOOALMayfair-based jewellery firm Jooal, knownfor its rare coloured gemstone designs, has produced this unusual diamond pendant – based on the Sanskrit letters ofalphabet – to support the international literacy charity Pratham. The pendant marks a new campaign for thecharity, Right to Read, which aims to bringliteracy to India, and is the first collaborationof its kind for Pratham. Proceeds from the sale of each personalised Signaturependant, which features an initial letter and retails for £360, will help fund children’s educational projects. A limitededition ruby and diamond version, whichretails at between £2,000 and £5,000 isalso available.

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Linnie McLarty (left)Linnie McLarty’s silver brooches feature the designer’s own ‘poppi’ fastening method,which does not require pins. The silver banglepictured comes from her ‘linguini’ range ofrings and bangles. RRPs for the brooches,which are from the Small PleasuresCollection, range from £150-£210 while thebangles cost from £275-£330.www.linniemclarty.com

Tomasz Donocik (right)“Phoenix” is part of Tamasz’s latest four-piece ring collection. Based around the elements, each ring takes the form of amythical creature: this one, for example, isthe bird of fire. Created in 18ct white androse gold, it has a central stone of garnetspessartite with pavé-set brown, yellow and

white brilliant-cut diamonds and ruby eyes.RRP approx £20,000.www.tomaszdonocik.com

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This month, the British Jewellers’ Associationwill once again be taking a group of eight

talented London designers to the Munichjewellery exhibition Inhorgenta, which willbe held from the 19th to the 22nd Februaryin the city’s Messe München International.

Attending Inhorgenta provided a hugeboost to the companies that exhibited on the‘London Jewellery Exports’ stand last year, somuch so that, despite the local governmentfunding for the project now having come toa close, the BJA has decided to support afurther group this year as part of a five yearmarketing plan.

To me, the London Jewellery Exportsstand in Design Hall C not only provides amuch-needed leg up onto the world stagefor those taking part, but is also a way topublicise londonjewelleryexports.com which,

under the terms of the original project, the Association is contracted to host andpromote until 2013.

Showcase for talentThe www.londonjewelleryexports.com web-site offers a showcase to over 100 of thecapital city’s jewellery designers, and is agreat place for shops and galleries fromaround the world to explore the vibrantLondon contemporary jewellery scene and to source potential new suppliers. It also provides a unique and invaluablesource of information for the designersthemselves, carrying, as it does, many testimonials and show reports from thosewho have had funding from the project toeither visit, or to participate in, overseastrade events.

Valuable resourceThere is nothing like hearing informationstraight from the horse’s mouth, and ourwebsite gives young companies access toreports from other young companies abouthow a particular show worked for them. Thereis no hype, no PR, just a straightforwardtelling it as it is and this can be really usefulin trying to judge whether or not a particularevent or a market will be right for you.

Funding availableNor is the information on the website purelyhistorical. The BJA still has funding to supportLondon designer-makers wishing to visitoverseas markets/trade fairs for researchpurposes and can provide up to £200 per tripto eligible participants, providing they areprepared to post their own ‘no-holds-barred’report onto the website when they return.

To find out more about London JewelleryExports, please contact Lindsey Straughtonat the BJA on 0121 237 1112 or visitwww.londonjewelleryexports.co.uk

The BJA’s London Jewellery Exports is returning this year to Inhorgenta. The Association’s Lindsey Straughton, who masterminded the project, looks at who will be participatingand the eclectic mix of products they will be offering.

London designers at Munich this year

LJE goes to Munich

Eastern Mystic (below)Faceted labradorite and apatite are combinedto great effect with 24ct gold vermeil inthese hand-made Jahanara Kumari earrings,by Eastern Magic. Part of the company’s‘Malika Collection’, they retail at £150.www.easternmystic.com

Rowan Davis (below)This vaulted arch ring in18ct white gold,which is set with amethyst and diamonds, isone of the key pieces from Rowan Davis’sDark Romance Collection, which is inspiredby the architecture and mystery of yearsgone by. The RRP is £2,500.www.rowandavis.com

Alexandra Simpson (above)These pretty 18ct gold and diamond rings,which move effortlessly from day intoevening, are from the Inspired Flower collection by Alexandra Simpson. EntitledMorning Dew (pictured) and Mesmerize,both have a RRP of £1,200.www.alexandrasimpson.com

Ute Decker (above)100 per cent recycled silver has been usedto create this striking Möbius arm sculpturein which the designer collaborated with themetal sculptor, Benjamin Strorch. The piece,which is approximately 14 x 16 x 6 cm, hasanticlastic curvature and a lightly hammeredtexture. The RRP is £1,200.www.utedecker.com

William Cheshire (right)These earrings in 18ct white gold, pavé-setwith approximately .60ct of diamonds andfinished with a cascade of 18ct white goldchain, are part of the Burlesque collectionby William Cheshire. Other pieces include anecklace and ring. The RRP for the earringsis £3,500.www.williamcheshire.com

Rachel Galley (below)A bestseller from Rachel Galley, these silverAllegro bangles each feature hidden silverbeads that move around to make a wonderful musical sound when worn. They are available in internal dimensions to fit all wrists. The RRPs are £225 (large)and £150 (skinny).www.rachelgalley.com

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Jo Young: The Ananta collection was quitea new direction for Seiko, as least as faras the UK perception is concerned. Canyou explain what the thinking was behindthis new collection? Kirsten Crisford: Ananta may be a newdirection for Seiko in the UK and Europe,but it is not for Seiko globally. It is the high-grade watches that are the engine of growthfor Seiko. The domestic market of Japan hasalways led the way for us in this, with salesof expensive lines like Credor and GrandSeiko increasing all the time. We are often

asked when these high grade mechanicalwatches will be made available to the rest ofthe world, and so this launch is as much aresponse to our customers’ requests as it ispart of our strategy for the brand.

JY: So is the launch of these ‘high grade’models in Europe indicative of whereSeiko is going as a brand overall?KC: It is where we have been moving thebrand for several years, through our innovationand refinement strategy. We work to this ineverything that we do, most especially in

product development. Irrespective of price,we will only market products that are both innovative and refined; I would offeryou the example of the Kinetic Perpetual asthe watch that best expresses these ideas.The Ananta collection is yet another steptowards our growth as a high end watchbrand in the European markets.

JY: What has been the reaction so far tothis year’s Ananta collection? Where hasit been best received? KC: Ananta was the first global high endwatch launch for Seiko, and was coordinatedfor September 2009, so it is still early toaccurately gauge customer reaction.However, as a long awaited collection inEurope, these markets particularly have had

Jewellerthe

Kirsten Crisford, UK marketing manager of iconic Japanese watchbrand Seiko, tells Jo Young about the brand’s plans for growthand product development across Europe and the UK.

Brand ProfileSeiko


Seiko’s Ananta Collection Ananta, which was launched by Seiko at BaselWorld in 2009, markeda significant shift for the company, at least as far as its European and UK watch market profile is concerned. While it has long beenperceived in its domestic market as a high end, luxury brand, Seiko isstill considered to be very much a mid-market player outside Japan.Ananta is a ‘landmark’ collection that Seiko hopes is set to changethat: it is the first Elite collection the company has designed for theglobal luxury market, and the first to be marketed both internationallyand in Japan. It includes two calibres, features Seiko’s Spring Drive,and is the first to showcase the watchmaker’s high-grade mechanicalwatchmaking skill.

The Ananta collection has been inspired by the ancient Japanese artof swordmaking. First developed more than 800 years ago, the Katanais a single-sided, curved blade sword designed to be pulled from its scabbard and used in a single motion. The Katana sword is legendarily sharp, thanks to its use of a unique kind of steel and thespecific forging process that has been used over the centuries.

The Ananta watch, for its part, has taken on the themes of precision,artistry, parabolic curves and sharpness used in Katana swordmaking.The side of the watch case has a distinctive ‘Katana’ curve to it, anda three stage ‘blade’ polishing process has been used on the case togive it a smooth and flat mirror finish, similar to that of the Katanasword. The curve seen in the case has been made possible throughcrafting the case back and lugs from a single piece of steel.

the most media interest around the launch.The watches have obviously not disappointed,if we are to go by the positive press reviewsthat Ananta has received. Overall we aredelighted with the response from the watchcommunity worldwide and we could nothave wanted more from this new collection.

JY: What does the company feel its brandposition is in the UK market – how doesSeiko feel it is perceived here?KC: Seiko has changed in the past few years.On the international market, Seiko was verysuccessful in the 1980s and 1990s as theleading middle price range watch brand,and that is how most consumers in the UKand Europe see us today. With the arrival ofso many brands in this segment in recentyears, and with the complete democratisationof quartz technology, we decided a few yearsago to focus the Seiko brand on a single idea,which we call ‘Innovation and Refinement’.This strategy has been in place for severalyears now and the public have accepted thenew Seiko, with more distinctive products,more unique technologies (notably kinetic)and a more up-scale positioning. This issomething that we are continually trying toimprove upon.

JY: So, it’s fair to say that the company is looking to change the consumer perception of the brand in the UK: whyand how? KC: Our strategy has already proven itselfsuccessful, and the principles on which wewill run the business have helped us tomake inroads in changing the UK customerperception already, and this will continue.

In the past we were seen as a mid-levelwatch producer. Our intention is to changethis image to high end. Our history is one ofinnovation and we want make sure thatcustomers worldwide know this – Ananta is another big step towards doing this. Our plan is for Ananta to enhance the Seikoline and help us reach a major position inthe European market.

JY: How big a risk do you feel it is to takethe brand ‘upmarket’ and increasing the price positioning, particularly in thecurrent financial climate?KC: We have been slowly moving the brand‘upmarket’ over the past few years with ourElite collection, and we are now confident �


that the time is right to expand our offeringin this growing segment. With Ananta, weare providing three mechanical movements,two of which are entirely new, and the third, a mechanical chronograph is also arecent creation. This range of watches in the Ananta collection offer outstanding performance and value. The chronograph,for example, has a column wheel, a verticalclutch and other innovations like a onepiece hammer in the re-set mechanism thatwill ensure high performance over a longperiod. These watches have everything ittakes to succeed and we believe that watchaficionados understand this and will bedelighted with them.

The watch industry is very resilient and itstradition is a powerful and positive influenceon its stability, even at times of economicdifficulty. We feel that watch lovers willremain watch lovers, even in tough times,and that demand will grow again very soon,especially in Europe, which is still the heartof the global watch business.

JY: How does the Seiko brand perceptiondiffer in Japan to the rest of the world,particularly Europe? KC: In Japan, Seiko’s high end timepieces,notably Grand Seiko and Credor, define thebrand, whereas in Europe these collectionsare known only by watch collectors and aficionados and Seiko is, today, known herefor more mid-market products.

We aim to close this ‘image gap’ withAnanta and other collections in the future.We are doing this not because we areobsessed with a globalised image, butbecause collectors, retailers and watch fansare asking us to do so. And, over the pastfive or so years, we have brought to Europemany watches at the same price level asAnanta, and they have been successful. I am thinking of the Sportura KineticChronograph, for example, and of coursethe Spring Drive models we launched in2007. We think the time is now right for anaccessible luxury collection from Seiko, andthat’s why Ananta was created.

JY: Do you feel that Europeans prefer, asperhaps an automatic choice, Swisswatch brands? KC: As the Swiss watch brands have such afantastic reputation, particularly for automaticwatches, it would be surprising if customers

didn’t initially think of them. This has beenour challenge within the European market,and will continue to be our challenge as we strive to inform customers of the qualitycraftsmanship and value of the watches that we produce.

JY: So would you say that it is difficult fora non-European brand, even one withthe high standing of Seiko, to overcomethe dominance of the Swiss brands within Europe?KC: Yes. It would be strange indeed if theexcellence of the Swiss watch industry did notcreate something of an obstacle to Seiko inthe accessible luxury sector. In fact, we arenot trying to overcome the dominance ofthe Swiss brands within Europe. Our positionand our aspirations are more modest! We believe that with products like Anantaand the calibres like the 8R mechanicalchronograph, and Spring Drive, we have acontribution to make to the accessible luxurymarket in Europe, just as we already do inJapan. We are not targeting any Swiss brandnor aiming to take massive market share;

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“On the international market,Seiko was very successful in the 1980s and 1990s as the leading middle pricerange watch brand, and that is how most consumersin the UK and Europe see us today.”

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we just want watch lovers to see Seiko as aninteresting alternative to established players.

JY: What new directions, in terms ofproduct, is Seiko undertaking in 2010?KC: Come to Basel and we will show you!As every year, Basel is the occasion onwhich Seiko presents its new collection and, for 2010, we will show many importantnew developments, including a new calibrein Ananta, new designs in all the Elite collections and a fascinating new quartzwatch with a radical design.

In addition, as your readers may knowfrom previous news items, we have juststarted a year of celebrations marking the 40th anniversary of the quartz watch:the Seiko Quartz Astron, the world’s firstquartz watch, was launched on ChristmasDay in 1969. We are marking this landmarkin a variety of ways, starting with a designexhibition that took place in Tokyo in mid-December, and in Basel, we will unveil a very interesting new quartz watchthat brings the Astron concept into its fifth decade…

JY: What trends – in terms of metals,styles etc – do you forsee in the next 12-18 months? KC: I think everyone in the watch industryhas already experienced a shift in the market over the past 18 months. In 2007,the emblematic watches of the momentwere extravagant pieces, often with complexmovements and ornate designs. Todaythere is a new conservatism in consumers’watch tastes. They are choosing more soberdesigns and, inevitably, are more quality and value-conscious. We believe that thistrend towards conservatism and sobriety,longevity and value will characterise themarket for the next several years.

JY: Which customers, if any, do you feelSeiko is currently underselling to, andwho would you like to appeal more to as buyers?KC: Our experience and strength resideswithin making high quality beautifullydesigned men’s watches. As a result of this, and the fact that men dominate theconsumer market in price range which weoperate, we have focused our energy on meeting the needs of this segment.

“It is the high-grade watches that are the engine of growth for Seiko.”

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While our female collection has been verysuccessful as it is, we feel that it is a growingsection of the market that we could improveon. More women are starting to buy luxurytime pieces such as Seiko, and we wouldlike to appeal to these new customers.

JY: Which is the most important marketfor Seiko – Asia, Europe, North America,the Middle East? Is there any one marketthat you are particularly pursuing at present or plan to in the future? KC: Seiko is sold in over 100 countriesworldwide and our customers in every market are important to us. However, thedifferent regions of the world do present different profiles and we do approach each

of them slightly differently. Europe is themost important market for the future development of the brand, because it is

here in Europe that brand images arecemented in our industry. We thinkit’s true to say that if you succeed in Europe, you can succeed every-where, and this is why Europe is,and always will be, a critical market for Seiko. In salesterms, the American market ismassive for us, and we willalways prioritise the US, as

it accounts for thehighest proportionof our sales.

In terms of futurepotential, China andsouth east Asia are,

of course, vital. Weshould add also that we

have just established newcompanies in Moscow, Russia

and Bangalore, India and weare looking forward to important

growth from these emergingmarkets as well.

JY: Has the company’s plans orexpectations for 2010 been altered

in response to the financial crisis or doyou remain as optimistic as pre-2008?KC: Yes and no. We have strengthened theSeiko collection in the medium price range,as our retail customers have asked us to do,but we have not in any way changed ourpolicy of ‘Innovation and Refinement’. Thenew products that we are introducing arewithin the existing price range of Seiko, and offer the kind of exceptional value thattoday’s consumer demands. We think thatthe effect of the current economic climatewill be to heighten consumer’s attraction toproducts that offer real, lasting value. As thisis, and always has been, a big part of theDNA of Seiko, we believe that Seiko willcontinue to prosper. �

“We feel that watch lovers will remain watch lovers, even in tough times, and that demand will grow again very soon,especially in Europe, which is still the heart of the globalwatch business.”

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Nice day for a…


The recession is showing nosigns of causing a slowdownbridal jewellery spending, says Amy Gregson – and white metals are set to be this year’s big sales story.

Preparations for the new decade’s firstwedding season are in full flow, but what

are customers looking for in 2010? The lastfew years have seen a return to the ‘goodlife’ of growing our own vegetables, makingjam from windfall and baking cakes ratherthan dashing to the nearest supermarketshelf; will the jewellery industry go the sameway, with an upsurge in sales of plain yellowgold bands and single, small diamonds?

To be honest, it looks like the answer is aresounding “no”. White metals are set to bethis season’s big success story, with designersand retailers across the board seeing anincrease in demand for both platinum and

palladium, as Amber Saunders from Brown& Newirth explains. “We’re still seeing a definite preference for white metal over yellow at the moment, and it’s been thisway for the past five years. They have beensaying that yellow gold will be making acomeback in the UK, but I can’t see thathappening for a few years yet.”

Hers is a sentiment echoed by AntoinetteCorbishley, senior designer for HK Jewellery.“Definitely, white metal is the colour ofchoice at the moment, specifically platinum; yellow gold is, I think, seen as amore traditional metal colour, and is not as popular.”

The increased popularity of palladium isdue in no small part to the introduction of itsnew hallmark, which became compulsoryon 1st January this year. The hallmark hasincreased customer confidence in the metal and many companies are finding that couples are opting for palladium as analternative to white gold. “Palladium hasbeen a phenomenal success for us,” saysAmber Saunders. “And this was the case evenbefore the introduction of the palladiumhallmark – the hallmark has only helpedthose few retail sceptics who weren’t sure about taking the metal on a few yearsago when we launched it. Palladium has

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certainly affected our 9ct white gold sales,but that is exactly what we wanted to happenas we introduced palladium as an up-sellfrom 9ct white gold.”

White gold is still holding its own againstpalladium with some retailers though, asAntoinette Corbishley was keen to point out.“White gold is still very popular. Our customerslike the fact that we give the natural warmercolour of non rhodium-plated white gold asan option. As most high street jewellersautomatically rhodium plate their white gold,many people looking to buy don’t evenrealise they have a choice, and love the factthey can have varying shades of white tomatch their skin tone, or the colour of stonesthey are having set. Budget will always havea part to play in metal choice, so 9ct whitegold is a great option for customers workingto a smaller budget and is still very much in demand.”

Despite its premium price point, platinumis still doing big business in the weddingmarket too, as Andrew Sollitt, marketing director of Domino explains. “We believethat in the bridal market, above all others,consumers are looking for quality and that,once they have set their hearts on platinum,they won’t, despite the relatively high price,settle for anything else. In some gent’sdesigns we have seen an increasing demandfor palladium, but this is still a relativelysmall percentage when compared with 18ctgold and platinum.”

According to Pip Beale from Charles Green,the high price of gold in the current market

has also led to an increase in platinumsales. “We find that customers will oftenupgrade to platinum from gold, as the stepup in price is not as high as people expect.”

Corbishley agrees that platinum has theallure to overcome people’s potential monetary concerns. “In spite of the recession,platinum is by far the most popular metalchosen by our bespoke engagement and wedding rings customers. I think thecombination of its steely blue white colour,its durability and ease of care (not having tobe re-rhodium plated), as well as its weightand the sheer perception of it being themost luxurious of the precious metals, contributes to its enduring appeal, and it isthe most metal requested.”

Amber Saunders places the popularity ofplatinum down not just to market forces but the allure of the celebrity world too.“Platinum is still by far the ultimate metal ofchoice, even in the current climate and ifpeople can afford it, they will choose to buy

platinum. It still has the kudos of celebritieswearing platinum jewellery and, due to publicity and, of course, the knowledge theinternet provides, consumers regard it asthe best. Those whose budget can’t stretchto a pair of platinum wedding rings will oftenbuy a platinum wedding ring for the brideand the guy will choose palladium instead.”

The fashion industry is also at the heart ofwhat many designers are offering, with manytaking inspiration from the catwalks and thepages of the fashion magazines as well aslistening to the most important part of theequation, the consumer. This is an approachwhich has served HK Jewellery well, accord-ing to Antoinette Corbishley. “We research alot about what colours will be in fashion forthe next couple of seasons, be this throughtrade predictions and shows, as well asfashion articles. We also collect informationevery month on what customers have beenasking for and expressing an interest in. If there is a consistent demand for somethingwe will obviously do our best to fulfil thatdemand, and design items for our ‘ready towear’ collections in accordance with whatcustomers want.”

This approach is also taken by W&WJewellery. “We are confident enough to putour own designs out there, but not foolishenough to ignore our clients!” says DickieWallender. “Fashion glossies are plannedthree to four months ahead so are alwaysuseful – we try to look at everything fromVogue to The Evening Standard Magazine.”

The trade shows also play a large part inhelping designers anticipate trends, as doother areas of the industry. As B&N’sSaunders explains, “Predicting trends is


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“We find that customers willoften upgrade to platinumfrom gold, as the step up in price is not as high aspeople expect.”

Pip Beale, Charles Green

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decided by a mixture of visiting trade shows,feedback from our sales representatives andour retailers and also looking at the watchhouses. They spend a huge amount of theirbudget researching the market to see whatis the next new colour trend, and that provides a very good indication of whatdirection jewellery buying will take too.”

With inspiration for new designs comingfrom across a wide range of areas, will bethere be a change in the type of rings soldfor weddings? The traditional wedding bandis still very popular, but sales of gem-set ringsare also coming through strongly. “We’reselling more gem-set rings, especially withsmall diamonds, but the most of our tradeis still plain,” says Peter Green of Baird & Co.It’s a sentiment echoed by Amber Saunders.“We’ve seen a dramatic increase in thenumber of diamond set wedding rings forgents, and the market doesn’t look like it’sslowing down either.”

It isn’t just the grooms that are getting in on the gem-set ring action, though. “We have seen an increasing demand fordiamond-set wedding bands in the past twoor three years, as brides begin to demandmore than simply a plain band,” reportsDomino’s Andrew Sollitt.

So while white diamonds are still a girl’s(or boy’s) best friend, the use of coloureddiamonds is still taking its time to filterthrough to the wedding market, unlike other coloured stones, which have got a firm foothold in engagement ring design. “More and more of W&W Jewellery’sengagement ring commissions have

incorporated alternative coloured stones,such as tourmalines and sapphires,”explains co-founder Dickie Wallender. “The strength of the market for coloureddiamonds in 2007 seems to have slippedaway, but a lovely coloured diamond sillremains valuable.”

Consumers are also becoming moreadventurous with the settings of engagementrings. While the classic, round brilliant Tiffanysetting is still a very big seller, more unusualsettings are gaining popularity. “Cushion-cut and oval diamonds have been reallypopular at W&W,” continues Wallender, “butthe classic brilliant-cut single stone andthree stone designs, done well, are veryimportant to our engagement ring market.In design terms, shoulder settings have progressed and 2009 was all about splitpavé shoulders and bezel settings.”

Andrew Sollitt at Domino concurs.“Classic designs remain popular, but we arealso experiencing strong demand for slightlymore avant garde and cutting edge lifestyledesigns. Rub over settings are particularlypopular, as are diamond accents aroundornate multi-claw settings. Extra sparkle isdefinitely desirable and diamond-set shoulders are becoming an established look.”

H&K Jewellery has found that its customers are often choosing a twist on anold favourite, as Antoinette Corbishleyexplains. “The brilliant cut is the mostrequested stone shape by our customers,but not necessarily in a traditional Tiffanystyle setting. Twists and asymmetrical style shanks have been very popular, as


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“Watch houses spend a huge amount of their budgetresearching the market to seewhat is the next new colourtrend, and that provides avery good indication of whatdirection jewellery buyingwill take too.”

Amber Saunders, B&N

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Charles Green

have split shoulder shanks. The more traditional style of shank is still a favourite,but the majority of our customers like toadd a slightly modern or meaningful twist toit, be it through adding birthstones into theshoulders, engraving or a slightly differentsetting. Smooth, more contemporary rubover settings are very popular, followed by the four claw, which frequently we turn ‘on point’ to make the stone look morelike a diamond shape, and give it a slightlydifferent look.”

The legal recognition of civil partnershipsin 2005 has also had an impact on both thesales and trends of wedding jewellery. Theaverage spend on rings per couple appearsto be higher, due in no small part to themajority of couples having higher disposableincome and few of them having children totake into account. “Spend on civil ceremony

rings is often higher than for heterosexualweddings and they tend to buy platinumrather than yellow metals,” says Peter Greenfrom Baird & Co.

It’s a common theme among designersand retailers, agrees Amber Saunders. “We’veseen a huge rise in the number of same sexpartnership rings being ordered since thecivil ceremony was officially recognised a fewyears ago. With dual incomes and often nochildren to support, civil ceremonies are animportant revenue stream for retailers. Thespend on commitment rings can often be

very much in excess of the usual heterosexualcouple’s budget for wedding rings.”

Diamond-set rings do tend to be morepopular for civil partnerships, but, as withheterosexual wedding rings, there are nohard and fast rules regarding designs andspend. “Some couples like to have matchingrings, others completely different, but mostwill have complementary design elementsbut not exactly the same ring,” saysAntoinette Corbishley. “We have designedrings that are low profile, similar to eternity

or wedding bands, others have been moredramatic with a central stone like anengagement ring. A lot depends on the couple’s lifestyle and how practical the ringsneed to be, as well, of course, as their designtaste, just like any ring design. Being abespoke jewellery company, most of thepeople who come to us are after somethinga little different; that doesn’t mean theywant wild and wacky, just something unique to them which they can put theirown personal stamp on, and know thereisn’t another in the world exactly like it.”

Of course, this isn’t the case in all situations,and there is still a market for the more traditional plain band, though it does tend to be in platinum or palladium rather thanyellow gold.

Gifts for the bridal party, such as bridesmaids, mothers of the bride andgroom, best man and ushers is a growingmarket too, though understandably thesegifts are at a much lower price point and are very often purchased in silver. Earringsor bracelets are popular as gifts for female

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Coloured diamonds are still taking their time to filter throughto the wedding market, unlike other coloured stones, whichhave got a firm foothold in engagement ring design.

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Brown & Newirth

W&W Jewellery

members of the party, with cufflinks still taking top spot for the guys, as AndrewSollitt from Domino explains. “Weddingsundoubtedly offer ‘add on’ sales opportunitiesfor retailers and we have a broad selectionof pendant and earring designs that have been specifically created to mix andmatch with our wedding and engagementring designs.”

As Amber Saunders points out, buyingjewellery for the wedding party is often not a major priority for the happy couple.“Gifts for the bridal party have always beena part of the wedding budget, but more and more, this seems to be a token gift rather than something of particularly highvalue. Weddings themselves are extremely expensive and by the time bridesmaids’outfits and ushers suits’ have paid for, thereisn’t a great deal left in the pot for gifts!”

Given the tumultuous time the economyhas been having recently, it would seemonly natural that there would be an effecton the wedding market, but it would seemthat many people are still determined tomake their big day as special as they possiblycan, as Lee Ruben from Gemex hasobserved. “Due to the ever-growing popularity of diamond-set rings, we feel thatmany engaged couples would rather buy ahigh-quality, diamond-set band, which thebride will wear as her engagement ring aswell as her wedding ring. Couples are, in away, saving money as they are making onlyone high quality purchase as opposed totwo purchases and perhaps settling for mediocre quality diamonds.”

Knowing the upcoming trends in thewedding market is all well and good, but as the marriage rate in the UK is still low,what can retailers do to ensure they gettheir share of a reduced consumer base?

Antoinette Corbishley feels that practicalityplays a large role in successful bridal buying,especially for pieces other than the weddingring. “Think of versatility: can the piece beworn with several different outfits after thebig day? Have a wide range of colours tosuit lots of different colour schemes. Also,most brides want their dress to be the mainfocus, and the necklace, earrings or tiara isthere to enhance it not overpower it, so gofor subtle but elegant pieces. Things thatcatch the light and have a little sparklealways seem popular.”

Amber Saunders’ advice is more basic.“Don’t sell off your stock samples! We seetime and again that, among our customers,

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“As most high street jewellersautomatically rhodium platetheir white gold, many peoplelooking to buy don’t evenrealise they have a choice.”

Antoinette Corbishley,HK Jewellery

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Charles Green

W&W Jewellery

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those who generate the most business arethose who keep their stock samples up todate and if they do happen to sell a samplefrom their window, they replace it. Once asample has been sold from the window, if you don’t have it to show people again,you’re never going to sell it.”

It also can pay to be cautious in thesestraitened times, according to Gary Sinclairof PH Wedding rings, “Retailers are under-standably nervous about introducing a largevaried wedding rings range. The advice is,

keep the range conservative, with safe betson the best-selling designs.”

Of course, there’s two sides to every story.Gert-Jan Beukenkamp from 5C Jewelrybelieves that retailers can afford to be a littlemore daring with their stock, provided there’sbasis for their choices. “Listen carefully towhat brides want and are looking for, andcommunicate this to your manufacturer.The retailer knows best what the consumerwants, and needs to work together with themanufacturer to create the right designs. Tryto include some customised special itemsin the store’s wedding range that is notfound elsewhere.”

Andrew Sollitt from Domino agrees thatthere’s definitely a place for innovative design

with wedding jewellery. “When it comes towedding jewellery, you simply can’t let yourcustomers down and my advice would beto go for a supplier with a proven track recordfor quality and service. You also need product that is a little bit different and whichoffers great quality and design.”

Jewellery bought for weddings, whethertraditional church service or civil ceremony,is always going to come with a higher than normal emotional involvement fromconsumers when compared with ‘day today’ purchases. The good news seems tobe that customers are more savvy aboutrequesting exactly what they want and,more importantly, are willing to pay foreverything to be just perfect. Congratulations!

“They have been saying that yellow gold will be making acomeback in the UK, but I can’t see that happening for afew years yet.”

Amber Saunders, B&N

�

PH Wedding Rings

5C Jewelry

| Antique Jewellery


We in this industry are often keen toargue that jewellery is, unlike othercommodities sold on the high street,

very much a type of art, and never is this moredemonstrably the case than with jewelleryand adornment pieces made in Japan. In jewellery and in sculpture as well as within the everyday, Japanese people tend,arguably more so than any other nation, toplace great importance on the aestheticappearance of objects. Functionality, elegance,

beauty and simplicity are all given equalweighting in the design of all things,whether you’re talking about a pearl necklace, a carefully tended bonsai tree oreven a satisfyingly well-balanced bento boxcomplete with origami-folded napkin in afast food restaurant.This blurring of the ‘boundaries’ between theaesthetic and the functional is a centuriesold tradition in Japan, and is one of themany things that makes Japanese culture so

fascinating to enthusiasts like myself fromthe Western world. It is no coincidence, forexample, that it is from Japan that we getthe rigid yet strangely beautiful ‘dance’ ofthe tea ceremony, or the doll-like silhouetteof the kimono-clad geisha.For me, and for many thousands of collectorsand enthusiasts, netsukes demonstrate, inmicrocosm, the fascinating and entirely different way in which Japanese artisansapproach the business of making jewellery,accessories and adornment. No matter thatthese are items designed for practical use:they are nonetheless art and must be delivered to the most exacting and beautifulstandards of artistic endeavour in a whollyaesthetically uncompromising way. Theirpurpose might well be ‘just’ to act as a toggle on someone’s purse, but these aregoing to be the best toggles you’ve everseen, you might say.Essentially, netsukes are miniature sculptures,which were first invented in Japan in theseventeeth century. They came about inresponse to a very practical need; at that time,people wore traditional clothing, kosode andkimono, neither of which were fitted withanything quite so gauche as pockets. Toovercome the problem of where to storetheir money, seals and tobacco, folk woresagemono. Some of these were very simplepouches or made from woven material, but the most fashionable were inro, whichwere designed like rigid purses or wallets,often lacquered and highly decorated.These were attached to the clothing by theobi (the sashes), and were held shut bysliding beads called ojimes. The fastener atthe top of the cord holding the ojime was acarved button or toggle – the netsuke.Though these ‘toggles’, for lack of a betterword, started out from an entirely practical,purposeful place, they evolved – as is sooften the way with fashion – into something

AntiqueJ E W E L L E R YNetsukesNetsukes represent, argues Jo Young, all that is wonderful aboutJapanese culture and its uniquely artistic blending of form andfunction. Here she gives a brief explanation of their history.

I n a s s o c i a t i o n w i t h F e l l o w s & S o n s


Antique Jewellery |

far more elaborate and decorative. Netsukecarvers strived to provide the best and mostexquisitely-carved netsukes they could, tomeet the increasingly exacting demands oftheir wealthiest clients and, over time, theybecame objects of enormous craftsmanship.

The Edo PeriodIn terms of the production of netsukes, thebusiest and most active time for craftsmenwas the Edo Period, from around 1615-1868. A large number of the best netsukesdates from this time, which was effectivelythe first flush of fashionability for the netsukeand associated paraphernalia. Also called the Tokugawa period, after theshogunate who ruled Japan for a full 256years, it was a period of peace and stabilityfor Japan, but one which came at the costof somewhat repressive political rule. It wasduring this time that Japan, famously, cutitself off from the outside world, leaving onlyNagasaki open as a port to commercialoverseas traffic. Edo (today’s Tokyo) and Osaka were theeconomic cultural and political centres atthis time, within which a new wealthy urbanclass emerged, with a fervent taste andenthusiasm for art, culture and entertainment.Art as a whole became less aristocraticallyfocused, and art objects began depicting the activities and scenes familiar to the‘common’ folk. Some have likened this Edoperiod to ‘Swinging’ London during the 1960sand early 1970s, but at over 250 years inlength, this is perhaps somewhat derivative!In any case, the newly wealthy folks of Edoand Osaka became gradually more aware of

fashion, art and appearance, and netsukeproduction thrived as folk clamoured for ever-more elaborate and beautiful purses, clothingand decorative pieces for their homes.

Types of netsukeNaturally, a number of different types of net-suke were made over the centuries, fulfillingdifferent criteria and depicting differenttypes of objects. The most common form ofnetsuke is Katabori, or sculptural netsuke.These are mostly three dimensional shapesof around 5 centimetres in height, which tendto be carved to an overall round shape. Sashi netsuke (literally meaning ‘stab’ netsuke) are katabori made to an elongatedform of around 12cm. Interestingly, theseare generally a similar length to sticks andgourds used as improvised netsukes beforethe carved versions were invented. Obi-hasami netsuke are also elongated withcurved ends, and were designed to be visibleabove and below the wearer’s obi.

Manju netsuke are thick and round, withcarving usually done in relief, occasionallyfrom two ivory halves. They are calledManju after a Japanese steamed cake of thesame name, which is similar in shape. Mennetsuke or Mask netsuke is the largestcategory of netsuke after Katabori, whichwere made in miniaturised imitation of traditional Japanese noh masks.Anabori netsuke, or hollowed netsuke, areeffectively a sub-set of Katabori, which aremade by carving out to give a hollowed centre. These often take the form of clamsor other shells. Ryusa are the same shape as manju netsuke,but are carved to allow light through them,while Kagamibuta (‘mirror-lid’) netsuke aresimilarly shaped but have a (often decorated)metal disc acting as a lid to a shallow bowl. Finally, karakuri netsuke (or trick) netsukeare those that feature hidden ‘tricks’ or surprises, which often have moving parts.They are particular favourites of collectors. �

In terms of the production of netsukes, the busiest and most active time for craftsmen was the Edo Period.

| Antique Jewellery


MaterialsAs you can see from the examples shownhere, many – roughly half, it is estimated –of the netsukes made were carved fromivory. Obviously the use of ivory is now illegal, and many find the collecting of ivoryartefacts to be somewhat unsavoury, butnonetheless there is still a reasonably largeappetite for antique ivory netsukes amongart collectors. In fact, the range of materials used by netsuke carvers throughout the generations

was actually quite wide. Wood was usedwidely, notably boxwood and other hard-woods that were popularly used during theEdo period and continue to be used today.Fossilised wood, which has the appearanceof ebony, was also used.Parts from a positively startling array of animals were historically commonly used innetsuke production. These included, amongothers, walrus tusk, rhino horn, hippo andshark’s tooth, boar tusk and hornbill ivory,whale tooth and bone, and yet more teeth,

from bears and even tigers. Happily for netsuke collectors of a sensitivedisposition when it comes to zoologicalspecimens, netsukes were often made fromnatural organic materials as well, includingtagua nut (otherwise known as ivory palm),walnut, bamboo and the mineral agate. Metals were often used as accents – forexample, in Kagamibuta netsuke – whileother secondary or ‘accent’ materials werealso commonly provided by lacquerwork orporcelain, commonly-used decorative artsthat were in themselves used widelythroughout the Japanese art world.

Netsuke subjectsNetsuke carvers took as their inspiration figures from history and Japanese folkmythology, ethereal creatures and famousfigures as well as the more mundane andeveryday, including simple animal formsand images associated with everyday tradessuch as fishing or farming. Like most art, netsukes tended to reflect the nature of the society within which theywere crafted; this was, of course, especiallythe case with netsuke produced during theEdo period, within which Japanese societywas deliberately physically and thereforeeffectively culturally cut off from the rest of the world. In some ways, this is one ofthe reasons that netsukes are so uniquelyJapanese, displaying every element ofJapanese society and everyday life in, in asense, isolation.


Antique Jewellery |

Netsuke dating from this period, and ofcourse later, depict figures and images fromJapanese religion, folklore and professionaltrades. Trades were often represented bypeople physically rendered in the act ofworking – fishing, for example. Animalimages were, as you can see from theexamples, widely used, with zodiac creaturesespecially popular. Highly-delicately carvedplants and flowers are commonly found, as well as people famous or otherwise; thelatter are often to be found depicted in sexual acts varying from the subtle to thepositively athletic. As you might perhapsexpect, these kinky little collectibles are particularly interesting and popular with netsuke afficionados.

Value and collectibilityNaturally, the value and collectibility of thesedifferent types of netsuke depends verymuch upon its rarity and, of course, uponthe quality of the carving used to produce it.Netsuke will lose value if they are less elab-orately decorated and were less demandingon the skills of the carver.

The market for netsukes today is highlydeveloped, and most netsukes available forpurchase tend to be bought from art dealers and auction houses – all the majorUK auction houses have dealt in netsukes,with both Sotheby’s and Christie’s regularlyholding Japanese art sales featuring netsukes. Interestingly, the majority of netsuke collectorscome from outside Japan. Europeans werethe first netsuke collectors, and today themajority of the best netsuke collections inthe world are kept in museums as well asprivate hands in Europe and the US.

Netsukes todayNetsukes have, as highly crafted objectsmade from valuable materials, pretty muchalways been collectible. Other than a brieffalling out of fashion during the 1980s,when netsukes could be often picked up atflea markets for considerably less than theirvalue, it is fair to say that these are itemsthat have always and probably will alwaysbe prized and avidly collected.

However the art of netsuke carving is notlost. In Japan today the craft is still practised,and modern netsuke pieces can and docommand impressively high prices amongcollectors around the world. Meanwhile,museums and galleries the world over produce their own reproductions in wood,plastic and other inexpensive materials – for many fans of this ancient and intriguingcraft, these gift shop purchases are the closest we’ll ever get to the netsuke collection of our dreams… �

So how was it for you? As we start another year faced with uncertainties at home and tragedies abroad, Christmasmust seem a long time ago. The general consensus (once you separate the reality fromthe hype) is one of guarded relief; as one jeweller put it “It could have been better, but itcould also have been a helluva lot worse!” So what about 2010? (By the way how are wesupposed to ‘say’ 2010? Is it ‘two-oh-one-oh’ or ‘twenty ten’ or maybe, for the traditional-ists, ‘two thousand and ten’? Answers on a postcard please!)As I look back over 2009, the one major discernible trend was the growing interest inwatches – you only have to look at the amount of advertising space devoted to gentlemen’swatches in the weekend glossy magazines to see evidence of this. Our January watch auctionsaw 96 per cent of the lots sold, with over 70 per cent exceeding their top estimates –the ‘high flyers’ were vintage and military watches with bids coming in from 13 differentcountries. Over the centuries the jewellery trade has tended to focus on the aspirations of amainly female clientele – the growing desire of many men to own a watch for every occasionmay well open a new market for some and broaden the traditional appeal of jewellers tothe ‘alpha male’, who otherwise may only view a shopping trip to the high street as a furtheropportunity to fill the ‘jewellery box’ of their boss… If you haven’t yet made a New Year’sresolution – leaving aside the normal ones about alcohol and cigarettes – why not resolveto divert some time and energy into watches? You may be pleasantly surprised!Stephen Whittaker is managing partner at Fellows & Sons, specialist valuers and auctioneersof jewellery, silver, watches and fine art based in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter. He canbe contacted by email at: [email protected] or by telephone on 0121 212 2131.

Fellows & Sons (Est. 1876) Forthcoming Auctions

• Secondhand Jewellery & Watches – Thursday 4th and Thursday 18th February• Antique & Modern Jewellery – Thursday 25th February• Silver, Plated Ware, Coins & Medals – Monday 1st March• Costume & Silver Jewellery & Novelties – Monday 1st MarchA catalogue is available at www.fellows.co.uk or by post. Online bidding is available at www.invaluable.com/fellows

For further information please call Heather Bailey on 0121 212 2131.

Life as an auctioneer – Stephen Whittaker, managing partner at Fellows & Sons, reports.

Whittaker’s World

Interestingly, the majority of netsuke collectors come from outside Japan.

Netsuke production still goes on in Japan today,with wood and mammoth ivory used to makemodern pieces.


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This year – rather like The Jewellermagazine itself – The Jewellery Show

at Spring Fair International is to get a revitalised, fresh new look for 2010, whichorganisers hope will give the show “a dis-tinctive ambience and an aura of exclusivity,when exhibitors unveil thousands of newproducts and exciting trends”.

Certainly, there is a lot happening at theshow this outing: as well as launching its

first seminar programme, there will be alarge number of product trails for visitors to follow, and, excitingly, dozens of newcompanies that have chosen Spring Fair tomake their market debut.

The Jewellery Show will this year playhost to a huge number of exhibitors fromaround the UK as well as a significant number of exhibitors from around theglobe, who continue to see the UK as a vital

market for growth. The Jewellery Show – inhalls 17 and 18 at Birmingham’s NEC – willsee top companies from around the worldlaunching the finest collections of preciousand semi-precious jewellery, gold and silver,as well as jewellery-related products, includingtools and equipment, display, packaging andshopfitting items and services. Alongside anarray of fashion jewellery and accessoriesfirms – selling an eclectic range of itemsincluding bags, belts and scarves that will beshown in hall 19 – this will constitute thebiggest jewellery offering at any UK event.

There will, of course, be a central bar atthe heart of halls 17 and 18, providing a vitalnetworking and relaxation spot for visitors,wherein organisers will host a carefully-scheduled programme of early morning and late afternoon seminars. A ‘happy hour’for jewellery buyers and exhibitors is alsobeing planned.

The layout of the show has been editedmore clearly this year, say organisers, “tocreate a ‘buzzy’ area for the smaller stands.The entrances aisles have been widened,and across the centre of the hall, a wide,promenade-style aisle will feature open,spacious stands.

Over 25 designer-makers will have theirown area in the revitalised Design Quarterin hall 18, which will be indentified by itsown special branding and look.”

Organisers of Spring Fair appear to havetaken on board some of the criticisms thathave been levelled against The JewelleryShow in its debut year.

“The new-look Jewellery Show at SpringFair is all about focus and consolidation. We know from our research that there areover 15,000 buyers who have a primary orsecondary interest in our jewellery offering.We intend to make their buying experience aseasy and enjoyable as possible,” said showorganiser Louise Young. “The Jewellery Showhalls will be easier for buyers to navigate,

Let the showcommence!What’s on, what’s new and what’s happening at The JewelleryShow at Spring Fair in 2010.

Kleshna

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giving them more time to spend withexhibitors who have products of interest.”

Young stresses that exhibitors of fashionjewellery and accessories in hall 19 will alsobenefit: “No other UK show can offer thesesuppliers – and we have 250 of them – thesame crossover sales opportunities as SpringFair. They will not only see buyers who makefashion jewellery and accessories their destination, but also those from The JewelleryShow through traffic and the footfall ofhome and gift exhibitors, with whom theywill be sharing the hall.”

Returning Jewellery Show exhibitors willinclude Henig Diamonds, United JewelleryTrading, Abijou, Nomimation, Kleshna, Kristal Diamonds, Kestrel Manufacturing, H W Tankel, C L Edwards, Sea Gems, Balaganand Design Gap. �

Birmingham Assay to helpkick off the show’s first seminar programmeMichael Allchin, the chief executive and

Assay Master at the Birmingham AssayOffice, is to contribute to the first ever seminarprogramme at The Jewellery Show, presentinga lecture entitled The New Reality.

His presentation was inspired by thechanges experienced by the industry in recent months and years as a result of such majorshifts as the economic downturn and the growth of multi-channel retailing. It aims to give visitors to the show an insight into the jewellery market of 2010 and beyond, and “helpbusinesses put their company’s performance and future plans into context, and to flag upother issues that may affect the UK jewellery industry.”

The free seminar, which should be a major draw, will take place at the Pandora CatwalkCafé, at 2pm on Tuesday 9th February. The café is situated between Halls 17 and 18, at theheart of The Jewellery Show (see map on page 62 for details).

New look’ Jeweller magazine brings NAG and BJA closer together Spring Fair will see the launch of a brand

new look for NAG’s industry magazineThe Jeweller; a trade magazine which now enjoys the full support of the BritishJewellers Association.

They will contribute to the editorial content of the magazine, especially onmanufacturing and design topics. This willhelp to broaden the scope and the appealof The Jeweller, which has also undergonea design makeover to complement its newpublishing schedule of 10 issues per year.

In its new format the journal will be evencloser to the market for both retailers andsuppliers and as the mouthpiece of boththe industry’s leading trade associationsThe Jeweller undeniably has become ‘TheVoice of the Industry’.

On Monday 8th February at 4pm, to celebrate the new launch of the new lookJeweller magazine, retailers and manufac-turers alike are invited to enjoy a glass of champagne on theNAG stand to meet TheJeweller team and findout more about the new look magazine aswell as about the NAGand the BJA. Hall 17, Stand Q40

Fabergé-inspired Russian collection launches in the UK

The St Petersburg-based jewellery company Alfa Jewel has produced a new range ofminiature charms and pendants, inspired by the work of Carl Fabergé, which will be

shown at Spring Fair by A Jewel Veronika. The wide range includes original designs produced by Fabergé himself, whose work is

receiving renewed publicity following the announcement late last year that new jewellery was being produced by the Fabergé company – for the first time since the Russian Revolutionof 1917.

Alfa Jewel has reproduced jewellery miniatures of Carl Fabergé’s infamous eggs, which hemade for the Russian royal family. Alfa’s versions are made from silver or gold, and decoratedwith gold, enamel, crystals and diamonds. The collection comprises around 500 different eggs,along with the recreation of 80 of Fabergé’s original egg designs from the nineteenth century. Hall 17, Stand L10

Clogau


Curteis essentials

www.curteis.com

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7

8

3

9

4 56

1

102

2

KEY

Seasons Club & International Lounge

Press Office

Cook Live

Seminar Theatre (Hall 3)

Licence It!

Fresh!

New Product Display

Gift of the Year Showhouse and garden and GA Retail Lounge

The Pandora Catwalk Café

The Jewellery Show Seasons Club

Product Finding Points

Seating Area

Free Water Station

Circle Line Bus Stops

Fast Track Entrance – Badge holders Only

HALLS

1 Volume, Gift & Home

2 Kitchen, Dining & Housewares

3 Greetings & StationeryArt & FramingSpotlight on Contemporary Gifts

4 Contemporary Gifts & Collectibles

5 Toys & PartyFestive, Floral & Fireworks

6 Outdoor Living

6, 7+9 Gift & Home

8 The Summerhouse

10 Totally tools/DIY/Secure

17+18 The Jewellery Show

19 Fashion Jewellery & Accessories

19+20 Wellbeing

20 Gift & HomeHeritage & Souvenirs

Spring Fair 2010 useful information & hallplan• The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair International will be held at NEC,

Birmingham, 7th-11th February 2010.

• The Jewellery Show has 350 exhibitors and pre-registrations are up by 12% on last year amongst buyers with a stated preference for purchasing jewellery.

• Inside The Jewellery Show, the revamped Design Quarter will showcase unique products from over 25 leading designer-makers.

• Halls 17 and 18 are now dedicated entirely to jewellery while fashionaccessories have been moved to their own distinct area in Hall 19.

• The NEC can be easily reached by road or rail, with the NEC servedby Birmingham International. For full directions on getting to theshow, buying tickets or for any other information you may need toplan your visit, contact the Spring Fair organisers via the website:www.springfair.com

Norman Longstaff nowexhibit as Abijou JewelleryNorth-east based fashion accessories

company Norman Longstaff has unveileda new brand name, Abijou, ahead of thelaunch of its latest raft of products at TheJewellery Show.

The company (which will be exhibiting asAbijou) is showcasing its Goyanni Swarovskicrystal ring collection at the show. The collection, which comprises over 100 rings,will be shown alongside the company’snew Utopia collection of chunky, clasp andmetalwork bracelets, and lots of beadedbracelet styles.Stand M34 Hall 19

Kit Heath launches jewellery amnesty at Spring FairSilver jewellery specialist Kit Heath has

announced its first ever jewellery‘amnesty’, in association with the charitySave the Children.

The aim of the campaign, which the firmis calling the ‘Jewellery Box Spring Clean’,will launch at The Jewellery Show, and willsee people donating any of their old silverjewellery, “such as broken chains, squashedrings, odd earrings, tarnished pieces,unworn styles and unwanted gifts”, to Savethe Children.

Donations can be made using donationpacks available in Save the Children shops,participating Kit Heath stockists and onrequest from the Kit Heath websites. Oncereceived, the silver will be sold for scrap andthe money raised donated to the charity. Asa reward for the donation, Kit Heath will beoffering a discount code for purchases on itswebsite and through participating stockists.

Kit Heath will also design and produce a Save the Children bead to sit within itschildren’s collection launching later thisyear, and the opportunity to purchase instores and online. The company will bedonating £1 from every sale of the beads toSave the Children.Hall 18, Stand H39

The Jewellery Show takes place at SpringFair, from 7th-11th February 2010 at theNEC in Birmingham. See you there!

Sphere of LifeSphere of Life will be launching its new collection, Sphere of Love, at Spring Fair.The company’s philosophy, it says, is to lookbeyond the jewellery itself. “We look at the whole experience of giving jewellery asa gift.” Each item follows a sharp design, ishoused in highly distinctive packaging andcomes with a design story and message.This particular collection is comprisedentirely of heart shaped pendants.Hall 18, Stand G48

Hedva EleniThis year, Israeli designer and regular exhibitorHedva Elany is launching several new designsusing the motifs she loves best: shapesfrom nature, especially all kinds of leaves,together with birds, butterflies, spirals andflowers. New pieces include pendants,brooches, bracelets and rings, made in silver,9 carat gold and semi-precious stones. Hall 18, Stand D41

Artisan LifeArtisan Life designs handmade jewelleryand fashion accessories imported fromSouth America. All its products are sourcedon a fair trade basis, using natural and sustainable materials. At The JewelleryShow the company will be launching a new modern-looking range of tagua (vegetable ivory) jewellery. Artisan Life is afair trade importer, member of the BritishAssociation of Fair Trade Shops (BAFTS),and a provisional member of the World FairTrade Organization (WFTO).Hall 18, Stand B48

Dower & HallPopular design partnership Dower & Hallwill be showcasing some exciting new collections at this year’s show. Among thenew products getting a push in 2010 arethe rainbow-coloured stone-set range ofTwinkle Rings, which are worn to be stackedtogether, the vintage-inspired Spiral Podrange, made with pearls interspersed withhollow spheres, a new collection of locketsand a fashionable selection of Pearliciouslong-length decorated pearl chains.Hall 18, Stand DQ130

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The Look Book

Pascale Forcetti JewelleryAustralian brand Pascale Forcetti is launching in the UK with a limited edition collection ofhandmade silver necklaces, pendants, bracelets, rings and earrings from aspiring designerand metal artist Peta Garnaut.The latest addition to the range is Psyche, a luxurious pearl suite made with onyx and pearls.It is limited to a maximum worldwide distribution of 1,000 pieces.Hall 18, Stand DQ64

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VISIT US INHALL 18

STAND K49

LurimaLurima has produced a lovely collection of silver and gemstone jewellery, each piece madeby hand. All jewellery that the company produces is made with silver, gemstones and specially-made glass, such as in its latest millefiori collection. Hall 18, Stand DQ14


Feature |

DominoJewellery supplier Domino has produced awhole range of new pieces for this year’swedding market. The company has addedseveral styles to its diamond ring mountcollection, such as platinum engagementrings with stylish rub over settings, strikingcontemporary mounts and classic two-stone designs. In addition, the company willbe showing bridal necklaces and flowermotif earrings and pendants from itsRosabella collection.Hall 17, Stand N40

NominationItalian brand Nomination will be launchingits latest Terra range of stone-set jewelleryat Spring Fair. The new range is the thirdpart of the company’s 4Elements four-partcollection, Aqua and Aria (water and air)having already successfully made theirdebut on the retail market.The Terra range, says Nomination, is a ‘celebration of mother earth, nature and fertility’. It includes two necklaces, earrings,a bracelet and a ring with delicately designedleaves made from stainless steel and setwith amber-coloured Swarovski crystals.Hall 18, Stand G21

PH Wedding RingsPH Wedding Rings presents several newdesigns in its core wedding ring range. The company has produced a new comprehensive 60-page catalogue, which it will be displaying at the show, which highlights the diversity of its full range ofclassic to contemporary designs. Hall 17, Stand M28

BalaganBalagan is returning to The Jewellery Showthis year, where it will be showing a fullrange of its latest products. The company’sunusual and elegant collection, Blowing inthe Wind, features hand-picked real leaves,preserved with different finishes. Each piecebecomes a piece of entirely original “wearable art”.Hall 18, Stand G28/H29

| Feature


GemexGemex will be unveiling a new range ofgents’ palladium diamond-set weddingbands at Spring Fair, along with over 140new ladies diamond set eternity rings in itsRaphael collections. The range is all machineset, guaranteeing accurate precision setting,and all diamonds are F/G VS quality standard. All designs can be made in platinum, 18 carat white, yellow or rosegold or palladium. Hall 17 Stand R29

Sheila FleetAtlantic Swell is the delightful new designfrom Sheila Fleet, shown in silver withvibrant ocean-coloured enamel. This newcollection simulates the flow and movementof water with individual sculpted forms,intended to complement the designer’srecent Tidal and Shoreline Pebble collections.Hall 18, Stand DQ12

Linda MacdonaldEstablished in 1997, Linda Macdonald’s delicate jewellery, which has been inspired “by thedetail in nature”, has garnered many fans over the years. The company’s most recent collection, featuring a simple daisy pattern, has already become a trademark design, and therange is now being expanded for Spring/Summer. Hall 18, Stand DQ72

MuruMuru is launching its Rainforest collection at the NEC, which features abstract and naturalforms inspired by the Malaysian rainforest. The collection includes palm leaf and humming-bird motifs, as well as tropical flower designs and sculptural statement pieces in silver. Muru is also launching the second wave of designs for its award-winning Muru London collection. These fashion-led creations have a very British feel and incorporate iconicemblems such as silver strawberries, teapots, crowns and English roses. Hall 18 B30

The Alexander CollectionAlongside its MeisterSinger watches, thecompany will be showing its JanArt designerjewellery at the show this year. Offeringsomething a little different in silver fashionjewellery, the pieces are handmade fromfused and lampworked glass, enhanced withsemi-previous stones and other materials. Hall 18, Stand A34

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| Feature


This year’s award was specifically for palladium jewellery and had two separate

categories: one for a commercial range, andthe other for a statement design.

The Commercial Range Award was wonby Global Edge, part of the AbbeycrestGroup, for its Osare Curva Collection ofmen’s jewellery, while the StatementDesign Award has gone to the Monmouth-based designer jeweller Atelier Gilmar for itsStar-Gazer pendant, part of its Jenga range.

The Osare Curva Collection, which is madein 950 palladium and black diamonds, iscomprised of a ring, cufflinks and a braceletwith a black leather strap. Osare, whichmeans ‘dare’ in Italian, is an apt name forthe collection, which is aimed at professionalmen looking for contemporary jewellery thatis a little out of the ordinary. Elegant and

sophisticated, the collection retails atbetween £369 and £399.

The Star-Gazer pendant by the Welshdesign business Atelier Gilmar, winner of theStatement Design category, is hand made in950 palladium and 22ct yellow gold. It hasa feature 12mm Tahitian pearl and a 0.15ctbrilliant-cut diamond. The multi-strand collaris in stainless steel.

Speaking about the pendant, its creatorsGill and Alan Saunders said, “The design forStar-Gazer evolved from new work to belaunched in Spring 2010. Using palladium inthis work has enabled us to construct largestatement pieces without the constraint ofsize to weight ratio”.

One of the judges, James Newman, whois himself a designer jeweller and jewelleryretailer, commented, “All the pieces enteredwere of a good standard and well executed.The winning designs demonstrate some ofthe many ways in which palladium can beused and the variety of looks that can beachieved. As these pieces demonstrate that,through being relatively light and inexpensive,palladium lends itself well to both large contemporary designs but is also perfect formore bread-and-butter men’s and weddingring ranges”.

Newman says he has experienced a hugetake up for palladium in his Birminghamshop. “We’ve been particularly successfulwith men’s wedding rings, especially withguys who might have been considering silveror titanium. When we explain palladium’sattributes it gives us a real opportunity forup-selling,” he said.

The judges also made two highly-commended awards, one in each category.Birmingham manufacturer, Charles Green &Son impressed the judges in the CommercialRange category with its Reflect wedding ring collection, while After the Rain, a ring

with pearls and diamonds from the AngelettGallery in London, was chosen in theStatement Design category.

Retail prices for the Reflect Collection offive different rings range from £370 to£515. The After the Rain ring, which comesfrom the Royal Garden Collection, is simpleand elegant and retails at £5,000.

Both the winning and the highly commended products will be on show on the BJA’s stand (P40, Hall 17), at SpringFair Birmingham.

The BJA ‘Palladium’Jewellery Show AwardsThe British Jewellers’ Association has announced the winners of the ‘BJA Award 2010 at the Jewellery Show’, its new annualcompetition supported by Spring Fair International, EMAPConnect and the BJGF Federation.

Star-Gazer Pendantby Atelier Gilmar

Osare Curva rangeby Global Edge

Reflect wedding ring range by Charles Green & Son

After the Rainring by the

Angelett Gallery


Tel 01271 329123 Fax 01271 323342Email [email protected] Web www.kitheathkids.com

Kids collectionSpring Fair, Hall 18, G30/H31

We had our last update of communicationswithin the IRV email group back in

June 2009, and there have been hundredsof emails to-ing and fro-ing since then. Thisis a roundup of just a few of the topicswhich generated much response (subjectssuch as gemstone pricing, treatments and classification/identification, watches,enamelling, designer pieces and unusualmarks, to name but a few).

A popular issue for discussion from thegroup’s users was the subject of gemstones,

in particular treatments and, specifically,enhancements. Discussions among valuerscentred on how, exactly, to best value thestones. Gemstones discussed includedquite a few sapphires (‘red’, pink and white)and diamonds. As has previously been thecase, large and old-cut diamonds were alsoa popular topic for discussion.

Colour me prettyOne user asked fellow users for help invaluing a ring containing a 3.30ct ‘red’

sapphire (Picture 1), which contained a hintof orange and was confirmed to have beenheat-treated. Upon first inspection, he hadthought that the stone was a spinel, but theRI reading indicated corundum and thespectrum did not show the reading for ruby.He explained that the top of the stone was a dark pink/red colour, but orange was visible when viewed through the side. A stone dealer confirmed that it was a sapphire, but they had never seen one thatcolour and could not, therefore, help himwith a price. Unfortunately his request forhelp with the price went unanswered, but a number of gemmological users queriedhis use of the term ‘red’ sapphire, especiallyas most were agreed that the correct term for such a gem would be ruby (onlyred corundum can be called ruby). Oneuser recalled a now departed well-knowngemmologist who, at a time when rubieswere much more expensive than pink sapphires, used to say that, “if he was buying the gemstone it was a pink sapphirebut if he was selling it, it was ruby!”

Another user taking part in the discussionagreed that the trade relies entirely on sight when it comes to classifying corundumas ruby, as it would not be practical tochemically test every stone. When he firstlooked at the photograph of the stone, hefelt that the saturation of red was too weakand “watery” for ruby. Personally, he said,when looking at a gemstone, he referred tothe saturation of a gem in terms of drinks –this particular stone resembling rose waterrather than tomato juice (although heassured his fellow users that he does notuse these terms on his valuation schedulesand is more scientific in his working notes.


NAG Institute of Registered Valuers R E V I E W

The online IRV debates updateJewellery-related debates have been raging online amongmembers of the IRV email group since the summer. Sandra Page brings us up to date on the topics of discussion.

Picture 1


IRV Review |

Adhering to the practice used by many others within the valuation sector, he usuallymade a note of a stone’s hue, tone, saturation and distribution in associationwith GemDialogue and then referred to The Guide for pricing).

Another user said that he found it interesting to see all the differentterms/comments used to express opinionsof the colour of the stone, for example, red,rosy, orangey-red, dark pink, red colour,tomato juice, rose water, hint of orange andso on. This shows a clear need for the subject of grading coloured gemstones tobe addressed, which, as it happens, is exactly

what took place at the 2009 LoughboroughConference. This particular user, Peter Buckie,was one of the lecturers who covered thisvery topic along with his wife Barbara Leal,who gave a very entertaining main presen-tation entitled Colour Speak. Her presentationexplained why a more scientific approach tocolour grading is needed today – the use of

terms such as pigeon’s blood, cornflower blueand olive green are no longer good enough.

Many taking part in the debate were concerned that the stone may have beendiffused or coated, one recalling a top-coatedrhodolite that had been sold abroad as aruby, another referring to red diffusion-treatedcorundum, which can start out as yellowsapphire. There are also some syntheticrubies which are orangey-red. Another usersuggested his fellow readers paid a visit tothe website of a US-based stone coatingprovider, just to see the exotic names it usesto identify the variety of coloured syntheticsit offers for sale!

The user who had raised the subject wasgrateful for the gemmological assistance of his fellow users. As he explained, his customer had informed him that she hadbeen given the ring as a gift by her partner,who had himself bought it at auction as aruby. The customer did not know at whichauction house the stone was purchased

(or if it was an auction site on the web), orindeed how much her partner had paid for it.The tests undertaken by the stone dealer hadonly revealed heat-treatment.

To end this particular circulation of emails,the user who referred to the use of drinks todefine saturation suggested that food is usedso much to describe gemstones, that adescription could easily read as follows: “A cluster full of jelly and cherry opals withwatermelon tourmalines topped in creamcoloured pearls and with a sprinkling of cinnamon diamond chips, with side shoulderscapped in pigeon blood rubies, upon ashank of fine gold complemented with achannel of fine Champagne diamonds.”Role on uniformity!

Face valueCameos have cropped up a couple of timesin recent months. One user asked for help invaluing a pair of Cartier reverse intaglio crystalcufflinks (interestingly, these are often calledEssex crystal; for a definitive guide to the typesof cameos and intaglios available, the NAGguidebook On the Face of It is available).The cufflinks in question depicted horse headportraits in their original case, and bore theinitials WH for William Hill, the bookmakerand original owner (pictures 2 and 3).

When looking at a gemstone, he referred to the saturation of a gem in terms of drinks. This particular stone resembled“rose water rather than tomato juice”.

Picture 2

�

Enquiries made by the valuer at the auction houses had suggested an estimateof around £800-£1,200. However, throughcontacts made via a high end London dealer,he had received a second suggested retailprice of between £5,000 and £7,000(although it had been hinted that a cashoffer in the region of £4,000 would not be rejected). This email generated a lot ofcomment, especially about the impliedmark-up. It was felt that such dealers were adifferent breed to your traditional averagehigh street retail jeweller and regularly usehigher mark-ups. On the whole, users felt asecond-hand replacement value of around£3,000-£3,500 was more realistic. It wasmentioned, however, that the condition of the

intaglios needs to be taken into consideration.Indeed, it was suggested, from observationof the photographs, that perhaps the cufflinks were older than the Cartier mounts– the user confirmed that the condition was just off good with the mother-of-pearlbacking showing signs of dust penetration.The user decided to discuss the situationwith his client, who was happy to accept asecond-hand replacement value – the userjust hoped he wouldn’t have to approach a London-based high end dealer forreplacements if the client lost them! Notquite as rare as hen’s teeth, but not thatcommon either.

Finding a markWe’ve had a few unusual marks circulatingthrough the group in recent months. Oneuser wanted to identify where a brooch hadcome from and how old it was (pictures 4and 5). Fellow users were able to identifythe mark as a Russian silver hallmark (875parts per 1000 or 84 zolotniks), post-1958.The P, which denotes an R in Russian, indicates the Riga assay office (Riga oncebeing part of the Soviet Union, but now

being in Latvia and independent of Russia).Unfortunately, nobody was able to identifythe maker (O K). One user suggested that itmay be the sponsor’s mark for OrtakJewellery, but another confirmed that its

| IRV Review


A more scientific approach to colour grading is neededtoday – the use of terms such as pigeon’s blood, cornflowerblue and olive green are no longer good enough.

Picture 3

Picture 4

Picture 5

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Royal Selangor’s family of teddy bearscontinues to growwith the addition offive cleverly designednew items to itsTeddy Bears’ Picniccollection including a yo-yo, a spinningtop, a bubble blower,a trinket box and atooth box.

Beautifully designed and finely crafted in pewter, theseendearing new additions retail from just £19 and make perfect gifts for christenings and birthdays.

For further information please contact:

Nicki IsagbaTel: 020 7474 5511Fax: 020 7474 [email protected]

| IRV Review


mark is MG (after Malcolm Gray, the founder).Another user searched the internet and wasable to find similar pieces by the samemaker available for sale from retailers/dealers in North America.

Do you know who the maker was?

Famous worksDesigner pieces often come in for valuation.Recent emails have included jewellery bythe late designers Andrew Grima and GilianPackard. One user had a brooch (picture 6)in for valuation that looked like a piece of Andrew Grima’s work, but which bore the maker’s mark of HJC. Another user wasable to confirm that Andrew Grima’s jewellery workshop was known as the H JCompany, founded on his father-in-law’sfirm of that name. Another user had recently valued an Andrew Grima stick pin (picture 7) and praised Grima Jewelleryfor its assistance in arriving at a value(www.grimajewellery.com).

Another user had a ring (picture 8) in for valuation with the maker’s mark GEP. A colleague had suggested this might be thework of 1960s designer Gilian Packard.Fellow user, FIRV Michael Inkpen, who usedto work for Packard, was able to confirm that this was indeed her mark. Michael hadthe pleasure of working for Gilian for aboutseven years and the ring in the picture is typical of her firm’s output during the late sixties to early seventies. Michael himself made a number of rings like this

one, although he did not recognise it as one of his.

As to value, Michael was not aware of any special value attached to Gilian’s workalthough, as he pointed out, there is a collector for everything. He suggested, however, that the work of a designer makerwould warrant a 10 per cent premium onthe stones, cost for about ten hours of work by a competent craftsperson, plus 50per cent. To that, one would add retail mark-up for a new replacement value. As tothe second-hand value, he suggested itwould probably be worth what any othersimilar ring would be worth, albeit in arather specialised market.

These are just a few of the topics coveredin the last six months or so. We could probably fill another five or six pages of this magazine with more detail of the information exchanged via the group… �

Could you help any of the group users who put forward requests for help? Or doyou wish you knew who to talk to aboutunusual items? If you haven’t alreadyjoined the NAG IRV Email Group, why notdo so today? Just send an email to SandraPage at [email protected] and she’lladd you to the group. Please be aware thatjoining the group will elicit a high level ofemail traffic to your inbox.

If you would like to see the NAG’s guideto cameos and intaglios, On the Face of It,email Sandra at the same address.

It was felt that high end London dealers were a differentbreed to your traditional average high street retail jewellerand regularly use higher mark-ups.

Picture 6

Picture 7

Picture 8

J E W E L L E R Y


Ethical Jeweller |

Well, after many years of work, it was a privilege during December 2009

to see the Boards of the Alliance forResponsible Mining (ARM, an organisationthat I helped establish in 2005) and the Fairtrade Labelling OrganisationsInternational (FLO) approve the establish-ment of international standards for the certification of Fairtrade & Fairmined goldfrom small scale artisanal miners. Theagreement will be signed in the next fewweeks. As many readers of this column willknow, certified fairtrade gold has been adream of mine and many others over thelast decade, and it is a very exciting prospectto know it will become a living reality by the end of this year.

This whole project represents what Ibelieve to be the most important evolutionin the gold supply chain and market in modern history. It will mean that for the first time ever, there is a third party, independently-certified source of gold andplatinum available to the jewellery market

and the jewellery-buying consumer. For theresponsible small-scale miners who havebeen the bedrock of the process, it willmean they will not only represent a newevolutionary model of responsible small-scalemining in the eyes of the global community,but they will receive a premium on theirproduction that will go directly back intotheir own community development.

The whole process has also been anexample of what a partnership between twoorganisations of shared values can achieve.Both ARM and FLO have worked to bringthis idea to life. The project has involved the

setting of the Fairtrade & Fairmined Standardfor Gold and Associated Precious Metals towork with small-scale miners to ensure thesystem works on the ground. It has meanttalking to the jewellery industry about theimplications of certified gold hitting theshelf, with a special note of thanks to theNational Association of Goldsmiths and theBirmingham Assay Office, both of whichhave been extremely supportive of the wholeprocess. And perhaps most importantly forthe jewellery trade, it has meant holdingdetailed discussions with consumers onwhether the idea of Fairtrade and gold jewellery are compatible.

Now we have the exciting job of preparingthe UK market for adoption, publishing theFairtrade & Fairmined Standard, bringingsmall-scale miners into the Fairtrade systemand developing a communications strategy.There are already many interested compa-nies from various part of the gold jewellerysupply chain, and their enthusiasm has beenvery encouraging. It appears that the UK

Fairtrade’s final hurdleAs Fairtrade gold edges ever closer to becoming a reality, Greg Valerio celebrates nearing the endof what has been a hard-fought battle for the industry’s ethical campaigners.

Rings by April Doubleday made using 18ctgold mined at Ore Verde coupled withCanadian mined diamonds

�

| Ethical Jeweller


jewellery market is gearing up to be the worldleader in ethical and Fairtrade jewellery.

The advent of certified gold into the jewellery supply chain represents a tangibleway for jewellers and the broader industry todemonstrate its desire for fairer opportunitiesfor small-scale miners. By selling it throughour stores, we are investing back into thesocial and environmental wellbeing of ourworld, as well as offering our customers abrand new unique product.

For more information on becoming a partof this exciting development in Fairtradegold, please contact: [email protected]

What is Fairtrade?Fairtrade is a strategy for poverty alleviationand sustainable development, whose purposeis to create opportunities for producers andworkers economically disadvantaged ormarginalised by the conventional tradingsystem. Fairtrade is effectively a tool fordevelopment that ensures disadvantagedfarmers and workers in developing countriesget a better deal through the use of theinternational Fairtrade Mark.

Fairtrade Labelling was created in theNetherlands in the late 1980s. The MaxHavelaar Foundation launched the firstFairtrade consumer guarantee label in1988, which was given to coffee sourcedfrom Mexico. In the UK, the FairtradeFoundation was established in 1992, withthe first products to carry the Mark launched in 1994.

What does it mean when a productcarries the Fairtrade mark?The Fairtrade Mark is a registered certificationlabel for products sourced from producersin developing countries. To carry the Mark,products much meet the internationalFairtrade standards set by the internationalcertification body, Fairtrade LabellingOrganisations International. The standardsare agreed through a process of researchand consultation with key participants in theFairtrade scheme, including producers,traders, NGOs, academic institutions andlabelling organisations such as the Fairtrade Foundation.

How is the mark managed?The Fairtrade Foundation is the independentnot-for-profit organisation that licenses useof the Fairtrade Mark on products in the UKin accordance with internationally agreedstandards. The Fairtrade Foundation wasestablished in 1992 by CAFOD, Christian Aid,Oxfam, Traidcraft and the World DevelopmentMovement, who were later joined by theNational Federation of Women’s Institutes.Its members now include People & Planet,SCIAF, Shared Interest Foundation and theUnited Reform Church. The FairtradeFoundation is the UK member of the FLO.

Who are the FLO and ARM?The Fairtrade Labelling Organisation (FLO)is an international group of 24 organisationsthat work to secure a better deal for producers. From its headquarters in Bonn,Germany, it sets the international standardsfor the Fairtrade movement and supportsFairtrade producers. Its members includefairtrade labelling initiatives and producernetworks from around the world.

The Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM)is an independent, global pioneering initiativeestablished to enhance equity and wellbeingin artisanal and small-scale mining (ASM)communities through improved social, environmental and labour practices, goodgovernance and the implementation ofecosystem restoration practices. The organi-sation is committed to social justice andenvironmental responsibility.

ARM’s mission is to set standards forresponsible ASM and to support and enableproducers to deliver Fairmined certified metalsand minerals through economically just supply chains to the markets, in order tocontribute towards the transformation of ASMinto a socially and environmentally respon-sible activity, and to the improvement ofthe quality of life of marginalised artisanalminers, their families and communities. �

Sources: ARM and Fairtrade Foundation

It appears that the UK jewellery market is gearingup to be the world leader in ethical and Fairtrade jewellery.

More Fairtrade gold rings by April Doubleday

| Education + Training


In the survey, conducted by the NAGamong students completing either the first

or second part of the Professional Jewellers’Diploma between December 2008 andDecember 2009, students listed additionalknowledge, more confidence and skilldevelopment as the main reasons why colleagues should consider training with the NAG.

The same number of respondents (100per cent) rated JET 1 and JET 2 as either good or excellent, with many using wordssuch as “fantastic”, “great” and “a joy” to further describe the distance learning courses. One student in the anonymous survey,made up of students from both multiplesand independents, gave the course an A*,while another said they were “a JET fan”,

explaining that their “growth is testimony” to the importance of study.

A further majority – 71 per cent of JET 1students and 61 per cent of JET 2 students– intend to continue their studies oncethey’ve completed their respective courses,while an additional 39 per cent of JET 2 students said they might continue with their studies in the future. None of the JET 2 students who responded to the survey said they would not continue studying aftercompleting their diploma.

Feedback for the format and presentationof the course, as well as for the course content, has also been universally positive.When asked to choose from a list of fournegative or four positive descriptions, all JET1 and JET 2 respondents chose to describe

the course format and its content as informative, useful, interesting or accessible.No negative responses were recorded. OneJET 1 student added that “the course notesare highly recommended for informationtouch-ups”, while a JET 2 student said that“content and format along with presentationis excellent”.

Similarly, the response to assignmentswas overwhelmingly positive with all the JET1 respondents and 97 per cent of JET 2respondents having a favourable impressionof the assignments. Meanwhile 42 per centof JET 1 students described the assignmentsas “good”, and 5 per cent declared that they “loved” them. One JET 1 respondentcommented that “the variety of assignmentswas very useful and refreshing, and the packhad a lot of easy to retain information”.

Most praise was reserved for the tutors,however, with an impressive 98 per cent of JET 1 students and 99 per cent of JET 2students describing their tutor in a positivelight. One JET 2 respondent said that theycould not “thank Eddie [Stanley] enough”adding they wanted the NAG “to recogniseEddie’s worth and the high esteem his students hold him in”. Another wrote “Wow tutor, top class! Eddie was the ‘pivot’and the reason I had success. He gave mebelief I needed in myself to achieve my aim – to sit my first exam”. Likewise CathrynRichardson is described as “outstanding in her tutorials”, Anne Bray is an “excellenttutor” and Michelle McCormick is “very positive and helpful – I could not ask for abetter tutor”.

Of the survey respondents that attendedone of the free NAG tutorial sessions, thereaction is equally encouraging. One JET 2exam entrant said tutorials were “a must for all JET 2 candidates”, while anothercould not “imagine NOT coming on thetutorial in preparation”.

Surprisingly the disparity of tutorial attendance between JET 1 and JET 2 students is huge. The survey revealed that

A* grade for NAG JET coursesAn overwhelming majority of past students would recommendthe National Association of Goldsmith’s Professional Jewellers’Diploma to a colleague, according to a new survey. An incredible100 per cent of the JET 1 and JET 2 respondents said they wouldadvise a co-worker to take the course.

L A T E S T N E W S F R O M T H E E D U C A T I O N D E P A R T M E N T


Education + Training |

80 per cent of JET 2 respondents hadattended a tutorial, while 91 per cent of JET 1 respondents had not, which mayaccount for the negative comments inregard to tutorials. One JET 1 student commented that “no tutorial available,which was disappointing”, while anotheradded “it would be helpful if the tutorialshad been held in Edinburgh”.

“We are happy to arrange additional tutorials where necessary,” explains VictoriaWingate, the NAG’s education manager,“but there needs to be sufficient support,which is why many of the JET 1 tutorials inparticular are cancelled”. Tutor Anne Braysuggests tutorials should be seen as a vitalpart of the structured training. “Many studentshave to use a day off or a holiday to attend;

some even have to pay their own transport.That should never happen,” she said.

Less surprisingly, the feedback on examsis less positive, despite a sizeable majority(71 per cent) referring to the exam inencouraging terms. “We did have a problemwith one exam centre for one set of examinations, which would account for a lotof the negative comments,” explains Victoria

Wingate, “but we have since found a new venue and the last two exams have run smoothly. This is exactly why we ask forfeedback, so we can strive to ensure that we provide the best possible service. Forexample, 11 per cent of respondentsdescribed the exams as ‘scary’, which isagain why we encourage exam candidatesto attend tutorials to take away that fear”.

Interestingly, in spite of almost universalpraise for the Professional Jewellers’Diploma, enrolments on the JET courses areslightly down on previous years.

“The economic crisis has had an impact, particularly with enrolments from independents, which is understandable,”says Victoria Wingate. “There is not thesame turnover of staff at the moment,which obviously means there is not thesame demand for training. That said, whatthis survey makes clear is the differencetraining makes not only to a staff member’sknowledge and confidence, but also theirentire perception of their role. Employersneed to harness this to help make the saleand every sale counts right now.”

One JET 2 respondent echoed this thought.“Knowledge gives confidence, which in turncreates more sales”. Another said, “havingmore knowledge has given me confidencein sales situations”, while a third reportedthe courses had even more benefit thanexpected. “I have thoroughly enjoyed bothcourses and feel the knowledge I have gainedhas made me more passionate about my job,” he said.

“What this survey makes clear is the difference training makesnot only to a staff member’s knowledge and confidence, but also their entire perception of their role. Employers need to harness this to help make the sale and every salecounts right now.”

NAG Survey ResultsWould you recommend the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma to a colleague?

JET 1 JET 2

Yes 100% Yes 100%

Which of the following best reflect your overall opinion of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma?

JET 1 JET 2

Excellent 75% Good 25% Excellent 57% Good 23%

Do you intend to continue your studies?JET 1 JET 2

Yes 71% No 29% Yes 61% Maybe 39%

What was your overall impression of the assignments?

JET 1 JET 2

Positive 100% Positive 97% Negative 3%

Did you attend a tutorial?

JET 1 JET 2

Yes 9% No 91% Yes 80% No 20%

What was your overall impression of the exam process?JET 1 JET 2

Positive 71% Negative 39%

Question not relevant to this course

Enrolling for 2010 made easierThere is a new look to enrolling for 2010. The brand new form will now make it even

easier for you to complete, for the NAG to process and for tutors to tailor their adviceand support. There is one big change, however, as students now need to include twopassport-sized photos with their application.

“Students currently supply photos when they register for exams, but it can be quitedifficult to get everything together at an already stressful time,” said Victoria Wingate,NAG education manager. “We have decided to ask for photos right from the beginning,to make the process simpler for everyone involved.”

The new look forms are availableonline and the NAG is once againenrolling for all JET courses. If youwould like more information on theJET 1, JET 2, JET Gemstone, JETManagement or JET Valuationcourses, download a prospectusat: www.jewellers-online.org orcall 020 7613 4445 (option 1).

| Education + Training


Worried abouthallmarking?

Find out everything you need to knowabout hallmarking with a JET 2

Hallmarking Information Seminar from theLondon Assay Office. This one day seminarhas been specifically arranged for JET 2 students and will cover all the essentials ofhallmarking for the exam and beyond, suchas the hallmarking process, reading hallmarks and a practical hands-on assayingand hallmarking session. The day alsoincludes a tour of the Assay office and laboratory. The seminar fee is £85 + VATincluding lunch and will take place atGoldsmiths’ Hall in London on 31st March 2010. Places are limited. If you are acurrent JET 2 student and would like more information or to book your place, call020 7613 4445 (option 1) or email:[email protected]

NAG heats up Spring FairThe NAG plans to heat up Spring Fair

in February, with a summer holiday-themed stand including a deck chair andsand pit, as well as Pimms and lemonade.The decorations will form part of theAssociation’s latest campaign to get jewellersto think about education and training fortheir staff.

“Every year we hear about the difficultiesretail jewellers face during the summermonths, when trained members of staff go on their summer holidays leaving less experienced colleagues to cover,” saidVictoria Wingate, NAG education manager.

“We know how beneficial an extra trainedmember of staff can be to cover holidays,but jewellers are missing out, because theyare not thinking about training until thesummer, by which time it is too late.”

This new campaign follows the Association’ssuccessful Christmas-themed launch at IJL last September, and serves to remindemployers that a student who enrols on thefirst part of the Professional Jeweller’sDiploma in February could have finished bythis summer and could have completed theirDiploma by summer 2011. The campaignhas led to some confusion however:

“We spent the summer thinking aboutmince pies and Christmas trees and we’venow spent Christmas looking at deck chairs,”said Victoria. “However, I’m sure some sunshine and a glass of Pimms will be awelcome relief at Spring Fair, especially if itsnows at much as last year!”

The summer-themed stand will form part of the usual packed programme ofevents on the NAG stand including thelaunch of the new look The Jewellermagazine. For more information, go to:www.jewellers-online.org, call 020 76134445 (option 1) or visit the NAG stand atSpring Fair: Hall 17 Stand Q40.

THE SUMMERHOLIDAYSARE TOOLATE....

OUR CONTACT DETAILS

The National Association of Goldsmiths78a Luke Street, London EC2A 4XGEmail: [email protected]: 020 7613 4445 (Option 1)Download a JET Course prospectus atwww.jewellers-online.org

A student who enrols onthe Professional Jewellers’Diploma now could havefinished by this summer and could have passed JET 2 and mastered all the practical skills that a retail jewellerrequires by next summer.

....TO STARTTRAINING

YOUR STAFFSTART NOW TO

MAKE SURE YOURHOLIDAY COVER

IS COVERED


Education + Training |

JET tutorials in actionFigures show that JET students have more self confidence andperform better in their examination if they attend one of thefree JET tutorial sessions offered by the NAG. The NAG says theday is friendly and relaxed, but what really goes on at a JETtutorial? Staff member and JET 1 student Stacy Simpson showsus her JET 1 tutorial diary to find out more.

Tutor Eddie Stanley goes through thebiggest problems facing students like usingBradbury’s Book of Hallmarks properly…

The day starts with a coffee and the chanceto meet the other students. Although I workfor the NAG, I was still nervous so it wasgood to meet the other students and relax.

… or a 10 x lens.

After lunch Eddie introduced us to JET 2, soit seems a lot less scary!

You spend most of the time studying onyour own for JET 1, so working in groups isa great way to practice identifying simulantsand natural or synthetic gemstones.

Tutorials are free and take place across thecountry in March and April or September.Call 0207 613 4445 (option 1) or email:[email protected] to learn more.

| Opinion : John Henn


You cannot be serious!” (is the printableversion of what I was thinking).

And so it was that, in the middle of a lakeduring a two week holiday in Indonesia, ourclient proposed to the light of his life andshe said “No”.I left you at the end of my last article weighing up the real return on selling a sackof beads versus a beautiful single stone diamond ring. As it turned out, we sold both – or so I thought. Given the holidaydestination of our client, we made up a silverreplica of the beautiful ring; he was excitedand proud of his plan to capture his woman,and chose to leave the real ring with us. I was miserable for him, and for myself, as Ihad suggested that if it didn’t work out wewould see him right. Fortunately, it seemsshe later said “maybe”, so we are reprievedthe refund, perhaps, for a few months at least.

So how was it for you? I hope all your clientscame in and shopped. Our experience wasthat the numbers were up but the averagesale was down. Then on our first day backafter Christmas, two clients came in andtheir purchases exceeded our total 24th figures. Only in the jewellery trade can suchstrange anomalies occur.Having now mastered our electronic till, we were surprised to see just how manynew people visited the store, largely due tothe beads (they accounted for 55 per centof the visits) during the last week. With thisinformation, we will have to think of newand clever ways to keep in contact with our customers without irritation. Personally, I have a propensity to delete emails fromAmazon and other e-tailers without givingthem much consideration, but their use of information is undeniably impressive. The way in which they know I may be in

the market for a product I have searched for, and then, over a number of weeks, send me relevant special offers, is the wayforward. I would love to find out how theydo this: when I do I’ll let you know. Spring Fair is upon us, and is the first UKopportunity to come out and see what thetrade has in store. Apart from the obvious –the NAG stand at Hall 17 Q40, reminding usof all the services they offer – Hall 4 mightbe worth a look, as it is showcasing windowdisplay. There is a belief that the style has

faded in our windows. Although you couldnot fault many streets in December, ourEuropean neighbours make store display an art form. Perhaps it is one of the reasons they are not so affected by onlinecompetition, and independent stores thrive?What else for 2010, more of the samegame? I think not. I am very happy to tellyou all that at the grand age of 48, I amabout to become a father.I have heard from you experienced mumsand dads out there that my life will never bethe same, and that every year after will bedifferent again. It seems that not only do Inow have to do battle with the commercialworld, but grapple with this new dimension.On the strength of your advice that moneywill start to disappear rapidly, I have boughta new exhaust pipe for my motorcycle. It has put me on the front row of DonningtonPark; if Mozart was alive he would write an opera in its honour, the sound is that fabulous. Unfortunately my darling wifenoticed it arrive, and it cost me an opencheque for a new pushchair: I feel thenoose tightening.As we face the various events of this coming year together, may all the girls say “yes”, all the watches keep ticking, andall the babies sleep through the night.Wouldn’t that be a treat…

She said “No”John Henn reflects on the anomalies of the jewellerymarket, unrequited marriage proposals, and the hidden costs of motorcycle exhaust pipes…

I was miserable for him, andfor myself, as I had suggestedthat if it didn’t work out wewould see him right.Fortunately, it seems she latersaid “maybe”, so we arereprieved the refund, perhaps,for a few months at least.

“

| Insurance Matters


An increasing number of jewellery ownersnow keep their jewellery insured undertheir household insurance policy only.Why is this, do you think: is it purelybecause of an increase in specialist premiums, and how do you combat the trend?“This is not something we encounter a greatdeal. If the jewellery is owned personally by the jeweller, then it should be insuredunder their own household insurance policy.In normal circumstances, a business orJewellers Block policy would not coverthese items as they are not owned by the business and would not be includedwithin any business stock records, which isnecessary for any claim to be made. Specialextensions can be requested under a business policy, but would not be the most cost effective or most advantageousmethod of covering these pieces.

If the jewellery is owned by the businessbut covered under a household policy, they will again encounter difficulty at theclaims stage. Goods owned by or used inconnection with any business would bespecifically excluded under nearly all household policies. Also, a number of thespecific covers needed under a businesspolicy would not be included under a personal household policy, thus further limiting the effectiveness of the cover.

In fact, premiums under commercialJewellers Block policies are as competitivenow as they have been for the last 15 years, so cost should not be used as themain reason.

In summary, not telling the truth regardingthe material facts of a type of insurance will nearly always result in a claim beingrepudiated, can result in criminal prosecutionsand will ultimately be a waste of money.”Neil McFarlane

A big ‘headache’ for jewellers is insuringgoods outside of the store (at exhibitionsor in transit, for example). What are thespecific risks, and how do you as a brokerrecommend that jewellers minimise therisk to themselves?“This is where a specialist policy such as aJewellers Block policy is required. Coveraway from the business premises would beprovided automatically under many policies,and as a standard and normal extension in cover under many more. Exhibitionsshould be specifically added, when thedetails of the exhibitions themselves areknown and the amounts to be shown at theexhibition finalised.

The major risk to a jeweller for loss awayfrom their premises comes from being fol-lowed and attacked. Most criminals willwatch and research any potential ‘target’ toestablish any regular activity or patterns oftravel. For this reason, if jewellery needs to

be carried away from the jeweller’s premises,try to avoid creating a regular pattern. Vary the times that you or a member of staff travel, and try to vary the route to your vehicle or another premises. Whereverpossible try and be accompanied, as two or more people make a harder target.

If you are travelling in your car with stock,whether to see a customer or take goodshome, be extra vigilant to see if you arebeing followed. Again, vary the route youtake home and if you feel you are being followed, drive to the nearest police station,rather than to your preferred destination, to report your suspicions. If you are accompanied, see if the other person canestablish details of the ‘suspicious’ vehicle,i.e registration number, make and model,colour etc. Then report these to the police if calling at a station, or Safergems if you area member of this initiative.

If attending an exhibition, try and haveyour goods delivered and collected by a

professional security company to the exhibition venue. The most vulnerable timeat shows is during set up and take down of the stand, due to the high volume of contractors on site. Be extra vigilant at these times, never let your stock out of sight

Insuranceinsight 2010For this first issue of the year Neil McFarlane and Michael Ferraroof TH March & Co give their personal, detailed insights into theissues that matter within today’s jewellery insurance trade.

Where a CCTV system is installed, have the digital hard drivestored in a non-public area and preferably hidden. Have amonitor near the entrance door to show the system is ‘real’.

Michael Ferraro, managing director, TH March & Co


Insurance Matters |

and if at all possible, leave your stock in asecure storage area until the first day theshow is open.”Neil McFarlane

Similarly, when considering in-storesecurity measures, what kind of basicsteps can jewellers take to minimise riskto themselves and their staff, and arethere ways that they can proactively aimto keep their insurance costs low?“Opening and closing times are particularlyvulnerable, including the period for dressingand undressing display windows and cases.Always open and close with a minimum oftwo staff members – preferably more. One member of staff should have thepremises keys and alarm code. The othershould hold the safe keys/combination. The first staff member should open andcheck the premises, observed at a distanceby the second member of staff, with amobile phone switched on and 999 set,ready to dial in the event of a problem. A pre-agreed ‘all clear’ signal should begiven by the first staff member before the second member of staff with access tothe safes/s enters the premises.

The door should then be locked and no callers admitted until all windows andshowcases have been dressed. The reverseshould be applied at closing.

During business hours there are a numberof steps that can be taken to minimise therisk of loss. Some of these, which by nomeans are exhaustive, are as follows:• Ensure you have good staff numbers

on the shop floor. Always avoid onestaff member being left on their own.

• Only show a customer a few items at a time, and try and avoid doing thisnear the entrance door.

• Have an electric access lock on yourpremises to control the number of customers allowed to enter at any one time.

• Ensure that your window backs anddisplay cases are kept locked, with the keys removed at all times, otherthan when serving customers. Ideallyhave these keys kept on the person of staff members.

• Where a CCTV system is installed, havethe VCR (or more likely today, the digitalhard drive) stored in a non-public areaand preferably hidden. Have a monitor

near the entrance door to show thesystem is ‘real’.

• Fogging systems, if installed properlyand correctly activated, are excellentloss prevention tools. Ensure staff haveproper training in their use, and that thesystem has an audible warning whenactivated, to alert customers as to whatis happening. Have a sign saying sucha system has been installed in a prominent position. Activating the systemduring a hold-up may be difficult forstaff in the shop, so have an audiomonitor in a back office or workshop.

• If you are registered within theSafergems scheme, report any suspicious activity or losses to them.”

Neil McFarlane

Is it your view that the risk of in-storerobbery has increased in the pastdecade? Has violence increased as far asyou are aware? How quickly does theinsurance sector react to fluctuations insuch risk? “Over the past ten years, the severity of in-store armed robbery losses has increasedmarkedly. In fact, both the frequency andseverity has increased significantly over the past three years.

The factors influencing this relate to highervalues being carried by jewellers in theirshops (including top level brand watches)and the general increase in commodity pricesof diamonds and gold over this period.

If we couple this with the fact that thievescan quickly transport goods out of the countryafter they have been stolen, the UK retailjewellery sector has unfortunately becomean increasingly favoured target not just for the domestic criminal fraternity but, due to the globalisation of crime in the pastdecade, the ‘short break’ criminal visitingfrom Europe or beyond.

While there have been various police initiatives country-wide, theft of propertyremains low on the police agenda, due tothe safety net of insurance, and there hasbeen relatively little recovery of goods. Policeinvolvement has only increased as the level of violence associated with jewelleryrobberies has intensified in the past fiveyears. There have been some convictions,but not nearly enough thieves have beencaught and convicted.

As regards the topic of violence in armedrobberies, regrettably this is something thathas deteriorated in the recent past, witharmed robbers using both firearms andknives, including machetes, to intimidatetheir victims. The threat has become muchmore real, in that there is no doubt that a lotof the ‘short break’ criminals are prepared touse the weapons they come armed with.

The established insurance sector will ofcourse have to react to increased levels of claims, but it is worth noting that thelong-established markets take a ‘grown up’view of matters. While inevitably higherclaims overall mean higher levels of

Insurance company TH March advises retail staff to pay particular attention to security during thevulnerable opening up and closing down times in their stores each day

�

| Insurance Matters


premium for all, given one of the main principles of insurance is the pooling of risk, the established market tends not to‘kneejerk’ where individual policyholdershave had a problem.

They are happy to work with insuredclients to upgrade their security and helpminimise and prevent future losses by useof specialist brokers and surveyors. This couldinclude an increase in terms, either by premium or conditions, but the plus is thatfor a client who has shown continuity withhis underwriter, they will still be happy toprovide cover in most cases even after aserious claim.

In the recent past there have beeninstances of policyholders who have optedto lose that continuity by going to an emerging underwriter who will settle a claim, but who will then effectively ‘washtheir hands’ of it and leave the client with a declinature. This makes it harder for that client at renewal to then obtain anoth-er quotation for insurance in the future,probably at a time when they feel they needprotection even more.

The problem with joining a ‘no claimsclub’ is that, once you have had a claim, youcannot belong any more!”Neil McFarlane

How closely do you as insurers work withthe police where the jewellery industry isconcerned? “With 58 police forces across the BritishIsles, it is impractical for TH March to maintain direct contact with them all.However, SaferGems has direct contact with all the Force Intelligence Bureaux. TH March does work with individual officersand forces where we can contribute additional information about other incidentsthat may be of assistance to the police, and we liaise with the Metropolitan PoliceFlying Squad, which has a UK-wide remit for armed robbery against jewellers.”Michael Ferraro

To what extend do you anticipate thatthe jewellery insurance industry willmove online in the coming few years?“This is a very difficult question to answerand really needs to be addressed from twoangles – commercial jewellery insuranceand personal jewellery insurance.

Dealing with commercial insurance suchas Jewellers Block, very little business istransacted online due to the complicatednature of many jewellery businesses andthe fact a thorough understanding of thatbusiness is required to ensure the correctcover has been arranged. Most online platforms for the transaction of commercial

insurance are for ‘simple’ policies, which areeasily packaged. While some jewellery businesses are straightforward, many arenot, and your insurance broker should takethe time to understand your business toensure the correct cover has been arranged.This will invariably mean having a bespokesolution, rather than trying to shoehorn aparticular risk under an inflexible and unsuitable policy, just because it may bemore convenient and cost effective to thebroker. The overriding principle is to deal

with a professional insurance broker, whounderstands the jewellery trade and has a track record of longevity with the trade and a history of dealing fairly with clients.We have heard too many times over the years of new entrants in the insurance market promising much and delivering little, particularly in an increased claims environment such as now. Moving yourcover to a new entrant, irrespective of how attractive their proposition may be, isno fun when the underwriter they use turnsdown claims or issues notice of cancellationfollowing a claim, an experience we hearabout more and more from people fromwhom we are receiving new enquiries.

With regard to personal jewellery insurance,this is much more suited to the online route.Many household policies are availableonline, including sections for insuring jewellery. However customers should bewary of standard policies, as they may havestrict conditions concerning jewellery cover,particularly over single article limits andsecurity conditions.

Recognising these limitations, we launcheda number of bespoke schemes many years ago, for the standalone insurance ofjewellery items. This has now evolved, andour March Plus policy can now be purchasedonline, at any time, without the need to talkto anyone.”Neil McFarlane

Many independent jewellers have complained in the past (in a complaintthat has been taken up in 2001 andbeyond by the Financial Ombudsman)about insurers insisting that customersuse specific – often larger – jewellers(with whom they have agreed favourableterms) for jewellery replacement andrepair work.Firstly, does your company have a generalposition on this?How big an issue is this, in your view? Should this practice be prevented moreforcefully than it is currently?How would you suggest independentjewellers act upon their concerns wherethey have any? “The Financial Ombudsman Service is often misquoted as having banned insurersfrom replacing an insured person’s jewelleryor watches through a supplier of the insurer’s choice.

Neil McFarlane, Sales & Marketing Director, TH March & Co

Opening and closing times are particularly vulnerable,including the period for dressing and undressing display windows and cases. Always open and close with a minimum of two staff members – preferably more.


Insurance Matters |

In fact, the Ombudsman does not banthe practice, but does – quite rightly – dis-approve of its misuse. The Ombudsman’sview is that replacement in this mannershould only be used where:• It is fair to the policyholder to do so• The insurer has taken reasonable steps

to explain, at the point when the policyholder took out or renewed the insurance, that claims would behandled in this manner, and

• The replacement item is reasonablyidentical to the item it replaces.

Insurers are often able to replace electricalgoods, carpets and so forth at a discount,which helps keep premiums down and workswell for the policyholder. However, with jewellery and watches, accurate replacementcan be more difficult, and the policyholdercan be inadvertently disadvantaged, especially where a detailed valuation is notavailable. Many insurers do not help the situation by only asking for valuations abovequite substantial thresholds. This is a majorproblem in far too many cases, but withouta simple universal solution.

TH March recognise that, in many cases,there is a common interest in the policy-holder returning to the jeweller from whomthey bought the ring, and offers two schemesto assist in this respect. Our March Guardscheme allows a jeweller to offer cover atpoint of sale, with the certainty that insured

replacements or repairs will be effectedthrough that jeweller, because the schemeis outside the Ombudsman’s remit. Underthe March Insurance Solutions scheme, thejeweller merely recommends us as a brokerspecialising in the insurance of jewelleryand watches. The type of insurancearranged is then dictated by the customer,but in most situations that will be of a type where we can refer the customer backto the jeweller concerned for replacementsor repairs.

What can a jeweller do when he cannotinfluence his customer’s insurance in this way?

The best protection for both the customerand the jeweller is a detailed valuation andan understanding of when an insurer is trying to act outside the Ombudsman’sguidance. The Institute of Registered Valuerswebsite: www.jewelleryvaluers.org/faq haslinks to customer leaflets on the need for avaluation and on the limits of insurers’ rightto replace.”Michael Ferraro

Safergems is a major new initiative thatTH March has established with the NAG.Can you explain how this will help thejewellery industry? Will it curb the cost of insurance? “SaferGems is a joint initiative between theNational Association of Goldsmiths and THMarch to try to reduce crime. Substantialincreases in crime in recent years threatenthe viability of the jewellery trade and cannecessitate increased premiums.

The SaferGems team co-ordinates information on incidents and suspicious persons received from members of the

scheme, liaises with police intelligencebureaux, and issues email alerts and warnings to members on a local, regional or national basis.

Local police and community warningschemes are helpful, but cannot addressthe problem of criminals who operate inseveral areas. The police are too under-manned and lack the exchange of informationbetween forces necessary to stop many ofthe gangs targeting the trade.

SaferGems will not stop all crime, andmay not avoid the need for increases in premiums, but it should help the trade toavoid some incidents and provide the policewith pooled information across a wider area,giving better opportunities to arrest criminalsat an earlier stage.

The scheme depends on the participationof its members: to provide descriptions ofsuspects, criminals and their often charac-teristic methods of operation, and also toprovide the email addresses that SaferGemsneed to be able to send out alerts.” �

If you are a full member of the NAG orinsured by TH March, you will automaticallybe a member of the SaferGems scheme,though you may still need to update your email address on the SaferGems website.If you need further information, call HarshitaDeolia (NAG) on 020 7613 4445 or Corneliadu Plessis (THM) on 020 7405 0009.

Jewellers are also vulnerable to theft when they are ‘out and about’, transporting goods to customersand to major exhibitions, like BaselWorld in Switzerland or IJL, held at London’s Earls Court.

Over the past ten years, the severity of in-store armed robbery losses has increased markedly. In fact, both the frequency and severity has increased significantly over the past three years.

Iam all for choice and for ensuring thefittest and best survive, but I suspect I

speak for many in the industry when I askwhether we really need another magazinein a market-place already saturated with aglut of publications and still suffering theeffects of the current economic downturn?

Following research carried out with theNAG during the summer of 2009, we collectively came to the conclusion that themarket could possibly support three monthlytitles. These views were expressed duringprotracted takeover talks with one of ourcompetitor magazines – an ideal solution toreduce four to three, we believed! Due to alast minute hitch the deal was not done, butthis venture did give us the momentum tocommit the magazine to ten issues a year.Although confident about our product, this

decision was a risk, especially with the economy in a downward spiral, but wewanted to be on an equal footing with ourcompetitors so that the magazine could befairly represented and judged in comparison.

That said, and playing ‘devil’s advocate’, asa retailer it can’t be easy to decide which ofthe magazines to read at the moment, letalone when a fifth title comes whistlingthrough the letterbox!

Plus, from a manufacturer’s point of view,how do you weigh up all the options ofwhich magazine is best served to reach yourtarget market?

Competition is healthy but sometimesyou can be spoilt and overwhelmed bychoice. Therefore I pose the question: isn’tit time the industry became much more discerning with the magazines in this sector?

Not only do I mean in terms of the quality andcontent but also in terms of their raison d’être,and whether or not they actually contributeto or benefit the industry as a whole.

I am certainly curious to know why anypublisher (even the impending one which isbased in Dubai) would identify the jewellerymarket as needing another publication andjump on a presumedly lucrative industrybandwagon that already has more ‘wagons’than ‘bands’.

Everybody in this sector is finding it tough,and that includes the publishers, with fourmagazines competing in a market-place whereadvertising budgets are continually decreasing.With that in mind, I feel somewhat fortunate,as publisher of The Jeweller, that we offer areal point of difference. The publication isthe ‘mouthpiece’ of the National Associationof Goldsmiths, the trade association forretail jewellers, which aside from offering asanctuary of help and advice to its members,is also heavily involved in initiatives thatbenefit the industry as a whole.

As of the New Year, apart from getting anew look and increase in size, The Jewellerwill also feature editorial involvement fromthe BJA, who, like the NAG, are also at theforefront of activities that are also beneficialto their members and the industry!

With the total support of both the industry’s trade associations, The Jewellercertainly occupies a unique position in themarket. Representing these two key associations, the magazine has now becomeeven closer to the market for retailers and

manufacturers alike, confirming the maga-zine’s position as ‘The Voice of the Industry’.

I believe The Jeweller, unlike our competitormagazines, answers the needs of the mostdiscerning of people in a very positive man-ner. It has its raison d’être as the voice ofthe NAG and BJA respectively, a loyal andsupportive member readership and a uniquerole in contributing to the industry as well as bringing it closer together – a role that we all here at The Jeweller are determinedto maintain.

| Opinion : Neil Oakford


More wagonsthan bands...With the imminent launch of yet another trade magazine seekingto jump on the supposed jewellery bandwagon, Neil Oakford,

publisher of The Jeweller magazine, believes it isabout time that readers and advertisers look beyondthe front covers and become that bit more discerning!

With the support of both the industry’s trade associations,The Jeweller certainly occupiesa unique position in the market.

?+

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in the Norwich Norfolk areaMain duties will include: selling, displaying and cleaningof stock. We expect very high levels of customerservice. The ideal candidate will be able to work bothas part of a small team and independently.• One full time or two part time positions available.• 8.30am to 5.30pm, 5 days a week to include

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Jobbing Jeweller also requiredExceptional opportunity in an independent jewellers’in-house workshop.• We are looking for an experienced goldsmith to

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This is a brief selection of our current vacancies, for more information on national opportunities

visit our website, e-mail [email protected] call Katie or Grant on 01756 753 555

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JACKSON MAINEThe Recruitment Specialists to the Jewellery & Watch Industries

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It is vital that we give our customers and distributors technical supportand as such we wish to recruit a skilled Jewellery Technician.

Working for the Gold Star brand this role will be a technical sales function. The purpose will be to promote our range of InvestmentPowders and ancillary products / machinery to both new and existingdistributors and jewellery factories worldwide. In addition much time willbe spent supporting customers / distributors by helping to solve theirjewellery manufacturing problems.

The successful candidate will have a number of years experience injewellery manufacturing. Whilst not essential it would be useful to haveexperience in all aspects of casting. An ability to develop relationshipswith customers is also important as well as an understanding of thesales function. Above all we need a practical ‘hands on’ person whounderstands jewellery manufacturing. We will give full training in theuse of plaster and refractories.

The successful candidate must be highly self-motivated – he/she mustalso be prepared to spend a considerable amount of time overseas.Ideally he/she will live within a reasonable commuting distance ofStoke-on-Trent.

To apply please send your CV by email to Huw Davis on:[email protected]

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Call David or Stephen at Agars LtdPort Hall Mews, Dyke Road, Brighton BN1 5PBTel/fax: 01273 540330Email: [email protected] Member of the British

Jewellers’ Association

So, poor, deluded and (possibly dangerously)dumb Tiger Woods. He really made a

mess of things this Christmas, didn’t he? For those few of you that don’t know, thebillionaire golfer Tiger Woods – who, untilrecently, was regarded as a squeaky-cleanmodel sportsman, husband and father –was caught out a couple of months ago byhis wife, having had what she thought wasone extra-marital relationship but which, asthe whole sordid affair unfolded, turned outto have been a succession of exceedinglygrubby liaisons with glamour models, barwaitresses, dancers and porn actresses.What was most interesting about all of this,to those of us NOT reading the Daily Starnor belonging to the Woods family, was theeffect that this had on the sportsman’s position as a major sponsorship ‘star’.Thanks to his cleaner-than-clean reputation,beautiful wife and angelic-looking children,Woods was seen as one of the safest andmost effective brand ambassadors on themarket; in sponsorship terms, Woods wasthe golden goose, and as such, he was oneof the most heavily corporately-endorsedsports stars on the planet.When it all went wrong, and Woods wasrevealed as a philandering cad, a morallybereft egomaniac, or, if you like, simply anormal guy with disappointingly poor judgement (which of these you agree with does, I suppose, depend upon yourpoint of view), his whole multi-billion dollarambassadorial edifice came tumbling down.AT&T, Gatorade, Gilette and even, bizarrely,the management consulting groupAccenture all swiftly dropped the weak-willed golfer from their advertising campaignswithin a couple of months, loath as they wereto be associated with his new reputation

not for impeccable sportsmanship, but forgrossly poor moral judgement and sleazybars (and all they contain). Then in December, the Swiss watch firm Tag Heuer began quietly removing postersbearing Woods’ image from retail outlets,and announced that it would no longer beusing him in its US campaigns.It has been estimated – somewhat gleefully,it has to be said, by a US media delighted tosee such an overpaid star brought down –that Woods’ series of ill-judged sexual affairscost not just him in marital terms, but hit many others financially. According to twoeconomic academics from the University ofCalifornia, Tiger’s “indiscretions” cost hissponsors a staggering $12bn in lost wealth.Indeed, they calculated that the golfer’s topfive sponsors (Accenture, Nike, Gillette,Electronic Arts and Gatorade) lost 2-3 percent of their aggregate market value directlyafter the bizarre car ‘accident’ outside

Woods’ home that set off the domino effectof his exposure and downfall.If one puts aside the always-satisfying senseof schadenfreude that accompanies incidentslike these, it does throw something of aspotlight onto the whole often-ruthless,occasionally-murky world of celebrity productendorsement, does it not?More specifically, it does make you think moreclosely about what product sponsorship andendorsement really means: is it the person’simage that you are paying to use, or the farmore indefinable ‘idea’ of them? Do youpay for their reputation, and in so doing, doyou own rights over it?What does the future hold, I wonder? In thelight of the Tiger Woods debacle, willcelebrities looking to make the big buckshave to sign even more watertight contractsthan those they already agree to? Will theyhave to adhere to a code of conduct thatprecludes them having extra-marital affairs,

taking drugs and falling out of nightclubswearing things they shouldn’t?Will Lindsay Lohan have to stop drinking gin and driving up the freeway the wrongway with a chihuahua stuffed in the boot,out of fear not for her mental health or thesafety of other drivers, but for the long-term security of her perfume, clothing andmodelling contracts? Or will things go the other way: will the slickendorsement factory have to accept that$10m a year buys you the rights to a person’sface, the occasional public appearance anda raised product profile, and not control of aperson’s private behaviour? The future on this, actually, could be veryinteresting.In my opinion, for what it’s worth, ours is asociety already far too constricted by thedictates of commercialism. I don’t knowabout you, but I think a world in which everycelebrity product sponsor in the land waslegally obliged to behave themselves wouldbe a terribly dull one in which to live… forall of us, and not just for errant sportsmen!

Last WordThe

Jo Young takes a wry look at some of the weird, wonderful and ridiculous happenings in the world of jewellery retailing.

If one puts aside theschadenfreude, these incidents do make you thinkabout product endorsementand what it means.

| Regular


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IFVVS1 VVS2

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D 7035 58325080 4478

41783252

2765 24392114

16261138

E 5982 5381 4629 41783877 3090 2602 2439

1951 1464 976

F 5681 52304328 3877

35782927

2439 22771789 1301 976

G 5230 46294027 3578

3090 2602 22772114

1626 1301 813

H 4629 41783740 3252

2765 24392114

19511464 1138

813

I 38773415 3252 2927

2439 22771951 1789 1464 1138

813

J 2927 2765 2602 22772114

19511789 1626

1301 1138650

K 2602 24392277

19511789 1626

1464 1464 1301 976650

L 21141951

1951 1789 1789 16261464 1138

976813

488

M 1789 1789 1626 1464 1464 1301 1138 976813

650488

N 1626 1464 1301 11381138 976

813813

650 488488

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D 9813 85277549 6886 5826 4711

4334 39323128 2491 1843

E 8527 77166886 6533

5651 45233932 3731

2923 22751627

F 8205 7549 67106179

5275 43343731 3530

2923 22751627

G 7549 67106003 5463 4711

41333530 3329

2707 20591402

H 6886 61795463 4899 4334 3932

3329 31282491 2059

1402

I 6003 52754899 4334

3932 35303128 2923

22751843 1402

J 4899 45234334 3731

3329 31282923 2707 2059 1843 1168

K 4523 41333932 3329

3128 2707 2491 22751843 1627

1168

L 3932 37313530 3128

2923 2491 2275 20591627 1402 935

M 3329 31282923 2707 2491 2275

2059 1843 1402 116893

N 2707 2491 22752275

2059 20591843 1627

1168 9359

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IFVVS1 VVS2

VS1VS2

SI1SI2

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D 9035 7583 6638 5882 5496 42783668 3262 2856 2197 1538

E 77727016

6071 5496 5090 40743465 3262 2637 1977

1318

F 7394 68275700 5090 4684 3871 3262 3059

24171758

1318

G 6827 6071 5293 4684 4074 3465 3059 28562197 1758

1099

H 6071 5496 4887 42783668 3262 2856 2637

19771538

1099

I 5090 4481 42783871 3262 3059

2637 24171977

15381099

J 3871 3668 3465 30592856 2637

24172197 1758 1538

879

K 3465 3262 3059 26372417

2197 19771977

1758 1318879

L 2856 26372637 2417

24172197 1977

15381318

1099 659

M 24172417

2197 19771977

17581538 1318

1099 879659

N 2197 19771758 1538

1538 13181099 1099 879

659659

IFVVS1 VVS2

VS1VS2

SI1SI2

SI3I1

I2

D 15154 1215310727 9653

8961 78327112

60755311 3725

E 1177010727

9787 92388404 7546 6815

57715158 3556

F 10727 9921 9238 8684 79757112

6371 56185005 338

G 9787 8961 8404 78327260 6519

5925 5465 4851 3

H 8961 8261 7689 71126667 6075

56185158

4539

I 7689 7260 6963 65196075

56185005 4698 4380

J 6075 59255771

53115158 5005 4698 4221

406

K 5465 53115158 4698 4539 4221

3893 372533

L 4698 45394380 4221

4062 3893 3556 3388 2

M 4380 42214062 3893 3725 3556

3388 3211

N 4062 3893 3725 35563388 3211

3211 3032

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70-0

.89)

IFVVS1 VVS2

VS1VS2

SI1

D 9035 7583 6638 5882 5496 4278

E 77727016

6071 5496 5090 4074

F 7394 68275700 5090 4684 387

G 6827 6071 5293 4684 4074 34

H 6071 5496 4887 42783668 3

I 5090 4481 42783871 3262

J 3871 3668 3465 30592856

K 3465 3262 3059 2637241

L 2856 26372637 2417

24

M 24172417

2197 1977

N 2197 19771758 1538

IF

D 13406

E 1046

F 95

G 8

HI

J

IFVVS1 VVS2

VS1

D 9366 8149 7192 65

E 8149 73556541 6

F 7843 7192 6374

G 7192 63745681

H 6541 5854516

I 5681 4989 46

J 4619 4248 4

K 4248 3878

L 3693 3507

M3116

291

N 2519 23

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the jeweller magazine february 2010 issue

Documents

industry thethe jeweller

ethical jeweller

industry news

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antique jeweller

years jewellery

stephen whittakerthe

london jewellery exports