canadian jeweller magazine

PLUS: ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS

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Appraisal: UpdatedWhat’s changed and what hasn’t

A Timely TrendThe fashion watch is more than an accessory

First ClassOntario’s fi rst

certifi ed diamonds

Bounce BackHow Basel 2010 offi cially

ushered in a new era

Lights, Camera, JewelleryUsing CAD as a marketing tool

Marcella Cusano from Montecristo Jewellers in Vancouver

ArtisansArtisansThe

JUNE/JULY 2010

$25

Win A $1000Collection Of Your Choice

See Inside

canadian jewellermagazine

for the business of retailing jewellery

Est.1879

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Siffari Jewellery Co. Limited, 55 Gervais Drive, Toronto, Ontario, M3C 1Z2Tel: 416-441-1010 Fax: 416-441-6188 1-800-387-0111

www.siffari.com email: [email protected]

Sterling Silver and Gold

Canada’s leading ring andjewellery manufacturer

Siffari Ad layout 1/8/10 2:35 PM Page 1

For details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 97

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New from Italy and Now in Canada

• Original Italian Design

• 19 Colours

• 3 Sizes. High Silicone Rubber

• Ultra Light (10 Grams)

• 3 Atm Water Resistance

Contact Offi cial Canadian Distributor at (416) 409 3855 or email to [email protected]


cjJuneJuly10_CoolStuff_PlastiChic_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 3:13:49 PM

And behind every great jeweller, there’s Stuller.

You’re there for your customers, and at every

point along the way, Stuller is there for you. We offer

a vast selection of bridal jewellery in all the

latest styles, as well as unique selling tools like our

comprehensive prototype merchandising solutions

and wedding band engraving. For a wealth of

ideas and solutions, call 800-877-7777, or visit us

at stuller.com. That’s the beauty of it all.

s tul ler.com 800-877-7777

mounti ngs di amonds ge mstones f i ndi ngs m e tals tools packagi ngf i n i s h e db r i da l

cjJuneJuly10_Stuller_dpsAd.indd 3 5/5/10 3:14:59 PM

And behind every great jeweller, there’s Stuller.

You’re there for your customers, and at every

point along the way, Stuller is there for you. We offer

a vast selection of bridal jewellery in all the

latest styles, as well as unique selling tools like our

comprehensive prototype merchandising solutions

and wedding band engraving. For a wealth of

ideas and solutions, call 800-877-7777, or visit us

at stuller.com. That’s the beauty of it all.

s tul ler.com 800-877-7777

mounti ngs di amonds ge mstones f i ndi ngs m e tals tools packagi ngf i n i s h e db r i da l


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“Learning is a treasure which accompanies its owner everywhere.”

-Ancient chinese Proverb

Providing Jewellers With the Foundation to Succeed

For more than 23 years, Jewellers vigilance

canada has served as a source of support and

education for jewellers throughout canada.

A non-profit overseen by leading industry

professionals, we’ve made it our mission

to provide our members with the education

needed to prevent crime, serve as a key

resource for government agencies, and

set industry standards that aid in building

consumer confidence in the jewellery

products they buy.

Sign up now atwww.jewellerycrimecanada.ca

or call 1-800-636-9536

Jewellers Vigilance Canada

An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the canadian jewellery industry.

c r i m e P r e v e n t i o n • r e s o u r c e P r o t e c t i o n • s A F e t y A w A r e n e s s

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8 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 0 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

EstablishEd 1879 june/july 2010 • vol. 131, no. 4

Myles Mindham Guest Editor Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | [email protected] lucy holden Associate Publisher | [email protected]

Carol besler Editor Paul aguirre Associate Editor | [email protected]

danielle Ng-see-Quan Editorial Assistant | [email protected] anderson Editorial Intern | [email protected]

scott Jordan Art Director | [email protected] leslie Ross Designer | [email protected]

stacy Karjala Designer | [email protected] Jordan Martinez Production Manager | [email protected]

Melanie seth Accounting and Administration | [email protected] daniel hare Administration Coordinator | [email protected]

CONtRibUtORs

salEslucy holden

Jeff Yamaguchi

CiRCUlatiONGarth atkinson

head Office

Montreal Office

AssociAte publisher

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117

email [email protected]

ADVertisiNG sAles

telw. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122


publicAtioN pArtNers

345 Kingston road, suite 101

pickering, ontario, l1V 1A1

toll free 1-877-547-2246


60 bloor street West, suite 1106

toronto, ontario, M4W 3b8

tel. (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392

555 chabanel street West, suite 1507

Montreal, Quebec, h2N 2J2

tel. (514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223

toll free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117

subscription Ratescanada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. united states — one year, us$205. Foreign — one year us$205 (subscriptions include buyers’ Guide is-

sues.) 8% p.s.t. for Newfoundland, New brunswick and Nova scotia residents. single copies — $25; buyers’ Guide $40. bulk rates — six or more subscriptions, $17.50

per subscription per year (canada only).

Change of addressemail: [email protected] telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735

or send your cover label and new address to canadian Jeweller c/o publication partners, 345 Kingston road, suite 101, pickering, oN canada l1V 1A1

Published by Rive Gauche Media ii inc.

canada post canadian publications Mail sales product Agreement No. 40678000. the publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. the publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by canadian Jeweller and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. return undeliverable items to rive Gauche Media, 60 bloor street West, ste. 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3b8.

Official magazine of JVC


stephanie bonotto, sarah b. hood, Katie huisman, Amber Klaehn, Jesse Kaufman, Greg Merrall, Duncan parker, bonnie siegler.

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table of

Contents

38 Mining Feature: First Class An exclusive look at the first certified Ontario diamonds.

40 Appraisal: Updated Why the details matter in a trade that constantly evolves.

46 The Artisans Marcella Cusano helms a family business rooted in

tradition and innovation.

54 Gemmology for the Masses A lesson in coatings and surface treatments.

58 Bounce Back Basel 2010 shows signs that the worst may actually be over.

66 Service Made Simple How software and small businesses work together.

68 A Timely Trend Fashion watches are bigger, bolder and hotter than ever.

77 Lights, Camera, Action, Jewellery CAD/CAM is more than just about design: it’s sales

and marketing too.

June/July

Features

46

68

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MAKE A FLEETING MOMENT LAST FOREVER. THREAD

YOUR CHOICE OF OUR BEAUTIFUL HANDFINISHED

CHARMS ONTO A BRACELET OF 14K GOLD, STERLING

SILVER, LEATHER OR FABRIC. WHAT’S YOUR MOMENT? BE

INSPIRED AT PANDORA-JEWELRY.COM OR PANDORA.NET.

MomentsMAKE A FLEETING MOMENT LAST FOREVER. THREAD

YOUR CHOICE OF OUR BEAUTIFUL HANDFINISHED

CHARMS ONTO A BRACELET OF 14K GOLD, STERLING

Moments

U.S. Pat. No. 7,007,507 • • © • All rights reserved

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table of

ContentsJune/July

Departments14 Letter from the Guest Editor

16 Contributors

18 Product Showcase

28 Who’s News Bfly welcomes new VP; Chopard joins RJC.

30 For The Record TAG Heuer unveils women’s timepieces; Hermès

launches first fine jewellery collection; rare pink diamond sets world auction record.

34 Stock Index

36 Mining News All the happenings in the mining sector.

52 JVC Feature A look at how education plays a key role in the industry.

74 Company Profile Butterfly Gem Collection.

82 Designer Profile Dandi Maestre.

86 Star Watch

88 What’s On

89 Showcase

94 Marketplace

97 Fax Back

98 Last Word

82

86

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14 CJ J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 0 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

letterfromguesteditor

On a recent buying trip to Basel, I spent some time with Marcella and Pasquale Cusano of Montecristo Jewellers in Vancouver. It was inspiring to compare notes with two colleagues who are as committed as I am to the � ne arts of jewellery making and luxury retailing.

I have since visited the Montecristo � agship store where I had the privilege of seeing, � rst-hand, the work they are creating in their studios. � e creativity and diversity of their jewellery re� ects the family’s passion for this art.

Marcella, the “Countess of Montecristo,” is sure to have a lasting effect on this 35-year-old business. Her passion for the industry, her delight in education and, most importantly, her commitment to honesty and integrity, are sure to sustain and grow this family success story.

As many of Canada’s independant retailers begin to recover from the recession of 2009, it is wonderful to take a moment to re� ect on why we are in this business. Marcella’s story will remind you.

Myles MindhamGuest EditorOwner, Mindham Fine Jewellery

Family Matters

Myles Mindham

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contributorsandletters

Jesse Kaufman Jesse hails from nearby Rochester, New York. After spending 15 years on the bench, he found that the future of jewellery design and manufacturing was in CAD/CAM, so he transitioned from traditional methods to the software approach about 10 years ago. He’s been a trailblazer in the field, and now provides CAD/CAM services and CNC prototyping for other designers, retail jewelers and manufacturers, aside from producing his own designs privately. Additionally, he’s a systems consultant for ModelMaster and CAD trainer for jewellery artisans. Check out his take on CAD as a marketing tool on page 77.

Sarah B. Hood Sarah B. Hood has published hundreds of magazine articles indozens of periodicals, including The Globe and Mail, the National Post, Enroute and Canadian Living, and has been writing for CJ for over four years. She has been shortlisted for both the National Magazine Awards and the Kenneth R. Wilson Awards for business journalism. She lectures on writing, arts and culture in the Centre for Arts and Design at Toronto’s George Brown College. For this issue, Sarah uncovered the booming fashion watch trend (page 68), noting that it’s less about being an accessory and more a necessity and key to life-long style.

Katie Huisman Tasked with capturing Montecristo Jewellers in Vancouver, Katie is a photographer about town. She studied at the Alberta College of Art and Design, graduating and winning the Governor General Award in 2004. Katie spent two years living and working overseas, assisting and receiving mentorship from photographers like Adam Custins and Robert Kent. She is now a commercial photographer and visual artist based in Vancouver and, although she is busy shooting advertising and editorial work, she exhibits her fine art work regularly and has shown publicly across Canada. Check out her photographs on page 46.

Amber Klaehn Amber began her career in the jewellery industry in Canada with a chain of retail jewellery stores where she was involved in every aspect of the business. She was promoted to manager of the wholesale division, responsible for sourcing and importing designer collections and distributing them across Canada. Followed by a promotion to marketing director, she was responsible for designing creative materials and implementing marketing strategies. As a recognized authority on technology’s application for the jewellery industry, Amber looks at short messaging for the small business in this month’s issue on page 66.

Le� er to � e EditorDear Canadian JewellerI just � nished reading the cover story on Sarah Hamel of Made You Look from the April/May issue. All I can say is Wow. What an amazing new concept for the jewellery industry. Her ideas are so fresh and novel that I read every word with great excitement. Sarah is not only a true entrepreneur, but also a trailblazer with a vision. I’m quite sure we will hear more about Sarah in the years to come. Judy Richards, PresidentDavidson’s JewellersOttawa, Ontario

canadian jeweller

magazine

the business of retailing jewellery

Est.

1879

Bridal at its Best

Why this category will

only keep growing

PLUS: ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS

Retail Reno

Redecorating is more

than just a paint coat

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productshowcase

Personal Jewelry InsuranceOrder your free Jeweller Guide for a full explanation of the Personal Jewelry Insurance program from Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company, the only insurer that specializes exclusively in protecting jewellery and jewellery businesses in Canada* and the United States. (The Personal Jewelry Insurance program is not available in Quebec.) Also, be sure to order a supply of our newly designed consumer handout. Exclusively endorsed by the Canadian Jewellers Association, the American Gem Society, and the Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of America. For more information, write 146 on the Free Info Card on page 81.

Individual ExpressionFor half a century, Atlantic Engraving Ltd. has been an industry leader, and as third generation jewellers, has taken the ultimate symbol of commitment beyond the wedding band and classic eternity ring. Featuring coloured metals and unique finishes, an Atlantic ring is an expression of individuality. Each ring produced is made of seamless tubing and is cut with diamond tipped tools on the highest state-of-the-art European machinery, and no ring leaves the factory without extensive quality control. For more information, write 148 on the Free Info Card on page 81.

The Future of Jewellery CustomizationSimplify custom design with CounterSketch Studio. Powered by sales-floor friendly CAD technology from Gemvision and built on the premiere fulfillment services of Stuller, this program is a turnkey custom design system that fits right on your counter. All designs shown were created from a single item in the CounterSketch style library For more information, write 147 on the Free Info Card on page 81.

Trollbeads JewelleryTrollbeads jewellery has been charming women around the world for more than 30 years. Unique, artisan quality beads that draw inspiration from nature, love, and life make it easy to create a custom, heirloom quality bracelet or necklace that tells your customer’s personal story. For more information, visit www.TrollbeadsCanada.com or call 905-326-5981. For more information, write 145 on the Free Info Card on page 81.

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productshowcase

Personal Jewelry InsuranceOrder your free Jeweller Guide for a full explanation of the Personal Jewelry Insurance program from Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company, the only insurer that specializes exclusively in protecting jewellery and jewellery businesses in Canada* and the United States. (The Personal Jewelry Insurance program is not available in Quebec.) Also, be sure to order a supply of our newly designed consumer handout. Exclusively endorsed by the Canadian Jewellers Association, the American Gem Society, and the Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of America. For more information, write 146 on the Free Info Card on page 97.

Individual ExpressionFor half a century, Atlantic Engraving Ltd. has been an industry leader, and as third generation jewellers, has taken the ultimate symbol of commitment beyond the wedding band and classic eternity ring. Featuring coloured metals and unique finishes, an Atlantic ring is an expression of individuality. Each ring produced is made of seamless tubing and is cut with diamond tipped tools on the highest state-of-the-art European machinery, and no ring leaves the factory without extensive quality control. For more information, write 148 on the Free Info Card on page 97.

The Future of Jewellery CustomizationSimplify custom design with CounterSketch Studio. Powered by sales-floor friendly CAD technology from Gemvision and built on the premiere fulfillment services of Stuller, this program is a turnkey custom design system that fits right on your counter. All designs shown were created from a single item in the CounterSketch style library For more information, write 147 on the Free Info Card on page 97.

Trollbeads JewelleryTrollbeads jewellery has been charming women around the world for more than 30 years. Unique, artisan quality beads that draw inspiration from nature, love, and life make it easy to create a custom, heirloom quality bracelet or necklace that tells your customer’s personal story. For more information, visit www.TrollbeadsCanada.com or call 905-326-5981. For more information, write 145 on the Free Info Card on page 97.

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www.atlanticengraving.com1435 St. Alexander #455 - Montreal, Quebec H3A-2G4

Tel. 1 800 267 7823 ~ 514 845 8257 - E-mail: [email protected]

The heart & soul of wedding bands


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productshowcase

The Peter Heim Collection The Peter Heim collection is the result of innovation in design, precision technology and superior hand-craftsmanship. With the promise of ultimate comfort engineered to put minimal pressure around the finger, this interaction of uncompromising passion for quality and perfection customise the finest gold, platinum and palladium alloys into stunning rings of beauty and understated elegance. A marriage-of-metals tailored to suit unique refinements and last forever! For more information, write 150 on the Free Info Card on page 97.

Nova Product Profile MayThroughout history the combination of black and white have been seen in many mediums. Whether on television, films, or photography, black and white bring with it an artistic, nostalgic effect. Nova Diamonds incorporates black and white diamonds in their timeless new collection. Contact Nova at (416) 868-6682 for more information. The bangle shown includes 29.59 ct of black and white diamonds and over 135 ct of solid onyx set in 18K white gold. The ring displayed features over 7 ct of diamonds also set in 18K white gold. For more information, write 152 on the Free Info Card on page 97.

GIA Reports and Grading SystemsGIA offers a suite of support tools designed to assist retailers in communicating the 4Cs: the International Diamond Grading System and the value of GIA Diamond Grading Reports. A report from GIA provides an expert analysis of the quality of a diamond based upon the “4Cs” of diamond grading — colour, cut, clarity, and carat weight. The report also includes a plotting diagram, which depicts the diamond’s unique clarity characteristics, such as inclusions. In addition, since GIA is not affiliated with any commercial enterprise, the public is assured the world’s most impartial and accurate analysis of a diamond. For more information, write 151 on the Free Info Card on page 97.

CHIAMPESANThis company has a concept that summarizes almost 50 Years of Values that Chiampeasan has never lost sight of. Beauty, elegance and Style are the corner stone for all its activities.To create jewels that can be worn in any occasion. All 18 KT and real stones. For more information, write 149 on the Free Info Card on page 97.


Every day, the world over, thousands of creativedesigners, artists, craftspeople and artisans introduce

wonderful new things of beauty and function; things thatadd flair to Living and Giving – the very products that will

drive tomorrow’s retail buying trends.

As a retailer, how can you be sure you see everything new? By attending the Fall 2010 CGTAGift Show, of course. It’s where you can browse, examine and buy the hottest new productsin every category; where you can see, touch, feel and evaluate real merchandise, up closeand personal. Don’t miss this extraordinary opportunity to preview everything in tomorrow’strends and fashions. (Your competitors won’t!)

is the artistic expression of elegance and style in a natural and pleasing context.

Flair

with FLAIRLiving & Giving

Sunday, August 8 to Thursday, August 12, 2010

International Centre • Toronto Congress Centre

Owned and Operated by the Canadian Gift and Tableware Association

www.cgta.org 1.800.611.6100

EXTENDED SHOW HOURS:Until 7pm Monday & Tuesday

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productshowcase

JSN Diamonds SparkleJSN is one of Canada’s leading jewellery manufacturers with an arsenal of five brands that range from entry-level product to a fully-certified premium Canadian diamond line. With offices in Canada, the United Kingdom and the United States, along with a plant in Bangkok, Thailand, JSN has achieved a high level of recognition on the international stage. For more information, write 154 on the Free Info Card on page 97.

Western Canadian Jewellery ExpoAugust 13-15, 2010

For over thirty years, the Western Canadian Jewellery Expo has brought a diverse group of manufacturers and suppliers from across Canada and the USA to jewellery retailers from the four western Canadian provinces and the Northwest Territories.

These manufacturers and suppliers showcase the very best and latest trends, packaging, equipment and technology for the jewellery industry.

In one of the best economic regions in North America, with the jewellery retail industry drawing on a population of 10.5 million, the Western Canadian Jewellery Expo is considered to be the best writing jewellery show in Canada. For more information, write 156 on the Free Info Card on page 97.

Polar GemPolar Gem is the first Eco-friendly Canadian diamond collection featuring renewed gold, with an identifiable diamond source, guaranteed by a mine of origin certificate. The Polar Gem is the perfect round brilliant diamond, cut to ideal proportions and symmetry, with perfectly aligned facets, creating a flame-like quality reaching the highest level for a diamond polished, with one of a kind phenomenon of sparkle and light “hearts and arrows”. For more information, write 155 on the Free Info Card on page 97.

Pacific UrnsPacific Urns has, in a short time become the largest supplier of quality Urn Jewellery with distributors in Canada, United Kingdom and Australia. With the line continuously growing they have also recently launched a complete Pet Line. Each Pacific Urns design is available in all precious metals and with or without diamonds. To see more styles please visit www.PacificUrns.com.

Each Jewellery Urn includes a Gold or Sterling Silver chain to match your selection, a Cherry Wood accent or Burgundy display box, solid Sterling Silver scoop to assist in filling, cleaning cloth to keep your pendant looking its best, instructions on filling, sealing and maintaining your pendant and an unconditional lifetime warranty on your Sterling Silver chain. For more information, write 153 on the Free Info Card on page 97.


Visit us at theUpcoming shows:

JIS Miami:Jan. 30 - Feb. 1, 2010

JA New York:Feb. 28 - Mar. 2, 2010

JCK Las JCK Las Vegas

LOW COST LEADER™

World's Gold & Diamonds, Inc.Houston, TX

www.lowcostleader.comTOLL FREE: 866-8-LOW-COST

CHRISTONY, INC.


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productshowcase

The Butterfly EffectThe theory behind the butterfly effect is that any good deed, however small, creates a ripple effect that can change the world. Supporting a cause we hold dear, being environmentally-friendly, helping our fellow man, and encouraging our kids to achieve their full potential are all simple things we can do to create a butterfly effect. Butterflies carry rich symbolism of universal appeal which symbolizes birth, change and transformation. Inspired by the symbolism of the butterfly effect, the BFly® jewellery collection expresses our desire to make this a better world. For more information, write 158 on the Free Info Card on page 97.

Breanna collection:Breanna represents the women who believes she is special as she is. Determined, passionate about life, design and perfection, Breanna is what every woman wants to be. She has found the love of her life and now needs to choose The Ring. But how to find the perfect ring in a crowded market place where everyone claims to have the perfect ring for you. That is why we designed the Breanna Collection. A collection where every model is unique. Every future bride will find a ring that will fit her personality and taste. Come to the world of Breanna and join the women who enjoys the beauty and quality of this magnificent collection. For more information, write 160 on the Free Info Card on page 97.

LovePods PANDORA introduces the new white gold LovePods collection. LovePods is a new range of fine jewellery made from 18K yellow or white gold, and is enhanced with carefully selected genuine gemstones. LovePods is a series of beautifully crafted rings, earrings, bracelets, and necklaces; a collection that lets you combine, unfold, and bloom as you create an expression that is uniquely you. For more information, write 159 on the Free Info Card on page 97.

Plastic is Chic...PlastiChic, the original Italian line of ultra stylish, silicone watches, has arrived in Canada! Plastichic is the hottest fashion craze in Europe with a cult following and an attractive price point that translates into high volume retail sales. The colourful, affordable, watches are available in 19 of the season’s hottest colours and come in unique test tube packaging. PlastiChic provides retailers with eye catching displays that drive impulse sales. For more information please email [email protected] or call 416 409 3855. For more information, write 157 on the Free Info Card on page 97.


F E N D I S E L L E R I A C O L L E C T I O N S E R I E S 8 1 0 0 I N T E R C H A N G E A B L E S T R A P S Y S T E M I S A R E G I S T E R E D M O D E L

O T T I M O C R E A T I O N S I N C . 1 - 8 0 0 - 3 6 3 - 0 1 7 8 F E N D I - W A T C H E S @ O T T I M O C R E A T I O N S . C O M


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productshowcase

CHAMILIA. YOUR LIFE. YOUR STYLE. Presenting the new necklace and earring collection from Chamilia, a leader of innovative design in the jewelry category. Personalize these necklaces and earrings with combinations of Chamilia’s 500+ beads. Add the collection to your Chamilia bead line today. Contact Chamilia at: 1-800-495-0977 or [email protected]. For more information, write 162 on the Free Info Card on page 97.

Siffari’s Signature CollectionA tradition in excellence continues with Siffari’s Signature Collection. Manufactured entirely in Canada, Siffari has combined unique design and detailed craftsmanship in this stunning collection. Featured here is a 14K two-tone gold ring with 0.21 cts of natural yellow diamonds and .61 cts of white diamonds. For more information, write 163 on the Free Info Card on page 97.

“Introducing The New Renault F1 Team Collection.” The four-model Renault F1 Team pilot collection celebrates the origins of the first oversized watches. The Renault F1 Team CEO Tech collection also with four models offers a more luxurious edge to TW Steel’s partnership embracing the team’s world championship winning pedigree. For more information, write 164 on the Free Info Card on page 97.

Bulova Accutron Celebrates 50 Years of Electronic Timekeeping Since 1960, Bulova’s Accutron brand has defined the ultimate in precision timekeeping. Today, the landmark tuning fork movement and exhibition case of the renowned Accutron Spaceview 214 have been meticulously recreated by Bulova for an exclusive 50th Anniversary Limited Edition model. In stainless steel with curved sapphire crystal and alligator strap, each exquisitely hand crafted watch is numbered and comes in a specially designed display case accompanied by an official plaque attesting to its position in a controlled, global limited edition run of 1,000. Available Fall 2010 at a suggested retail price of $4,000. For more information, write 161 on the Free Info Card on page 97.


TrollbeadsCanada.comThe Trendy [email protected]

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Find out who is making headlines in the jewellery industry.

Craig Race.

Jack Heuer.

Stuller Enlists Industry Veteran as Bridal VPStuller has hired Craig Race as its new bridal jewellery vice president as of March 15. “With Craig’s combined 35 years of retail and jewelry manufacturing experience, I am excited to have him join our team,” says Harold Dupuy, Chief Merchandising O� cer. “I am con� dent that his professional merchandising experience, especially in bridal jewellery, will serve us well, and I look forward to his future contributions.” Responsibilities will include providing vision, direction and product leadership for Stuller’s bridal product segment, including all activities associated with bridal product development, merchandising and marketing.

BFly Introduces New International Vice President of SalesButter� y Gems has announced that Martial Dubé will oversee BFly as Vice President of Sales. He will be responsible for managing the sales team throughout North America as well as contributing to international business development. Mr. Dubé has over 30 years experience in the industry, including a position as executive sales manager with the company. “We are delighted to have Martial on our executive board to help us increase our business sales division with our new partnership with the worldwide leader manufacturer of Ear Piercing Systems Inverness,” said company president Stephane Lavoie. Inverness is currently serving 46 countries with their ear piercing products in association with the new BFly concept that launched this spring.

JdJ Jewellery Debuts Exclusive Collection for David DixonFashion designer David Dixon’s show is always one of the most highly anticipated at LG Fashion Week, held in April for the fall collections. Guests at his show got an extra-hit of glamour with custom accessories created for the � rst time by John de Jong. “I was honoured when David approached me to collaborate on a select series of pieces to complement his 15-year anniversary Fall/Winter 2010 Collection,” says de Jong. Pieces include stackable bracelets in faceted onyx beads, chokers with a mix of stone shapes – some long, some short – and also a bib choker and large drop earrings with a mix of clear topaz, opaque onyx and quartz. � is marks the 15th anniversary of business for both David Dixon and JdJ Jewellery.

Chopard and HRD Antwerp Join RJC� e Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) recently announced that Chopard, one of the world’s leading watch and jewellery brands, and HRD Antwerp, the well-recognized diamond laboratory have become RJC members. All commercial members of the RJC are required to be audited by accredited, third party auditors to verify their conformance with the RJC’s Code of Practices to become certi� ed. “I am delighted that Chopard and HRD Antwerp have become members of the Responsible Jewellery Council,” noted Michael Rae, the RJC’s chief executive o� cer. “Chopard’s membership of the RJC will reinforce the Council’s mission of responsible business practices amongst large and small industry players,” says Rae. [CJ]

who’snews

TAG Heuer Chairman Returns to the RacesOnce a timekeeper of the Twelve Hours of Sebring Race (where he was inspired to create the Carrera collection � ve decades ago), TAG Heuer honorary chairman Jack Heuer returned to his racing roots at the Shanghai Grand Prix in April, where he watched TAG Heuer ambassadors Jenson Button and Lewis Hamilton take � rst and second place, respectively. It was a nostalgic return to the pits and paddocks of the races, where he spent the day inside the McLaren pit, wearing a headset linked to engineers and technicians: “My best race ever!” exclaimed the 78-year-old watch a� cionado. “It sent me decades back and I could feel my beginner’s spirit during the whole weekend. I was like a kid in a chocolate factory. I have lived Formula 1 backstage for several years but this world has evolved so fast – it was like living a totally new experience.”

Martial Dubé.

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TimeRevolution.com Named Authorized Service Centre for Raymond Weil Watches TimeRevolution.com, one of the oldest watch servicing companies in Canada, is now the authorized Canadian service centre for Raymond Weil watches. TimeRevolution.com is also the authorized service centre for Gucci, Phillip Stein, TechnoMarine and ToyWatch.

Birks Unveils First 100 “Made in Ontario” Diamonds Birks unveiled the first 100 Made in Ontario diamonds in April. The diamonds are from the De Beers Canada Victor Mine, Ontario’s first diamond mine, and polished at Crossworks Manufacturing Ltd. in Sudbury. To further commemorate the milestone, Birks allowed clients to design made-to-order diamond jewellery.

Butterfly Gem Collection Awarded $115,000 In Government Funding Butterfly Gem Collection Inc. has been awarded $115,000 in repayable funding from the Government of Canada’s Business and Regional Growth program. It will allow the company to create six new jobs and pursue expansion in the North American and international markets. The company has also announced an agreement with Inverness Corp., a leading worldwide manufacturer and distributor of earring piercings. Inverness

will develop and distribute the exclusive collection BFLY by Inverness, 14k and 24k gold plated earring piercings in birthstone colours for girls.

Imagine Designs Offers Retailers Free Apple iPadBridal jewellery manufacturer Imagine Designs will be handing out free 16-gigabyte iPads in Las Vegas to retailers who carry Imagine Bride, its new bridal collection. The company will be making its Imagine Bridal collection available to retailers strictly on an interactive, web-based ordering system, with the goal to revolutionize the way retailers purchase, reorder and special-order their bridal program jewellery.

NES Announces Debut of Earth-Friendly Jewellery Collection in SearsThe New York-based NES Green, the environmental division of the sterling silver jewellery company NES Group, debuted its Silver Earth jewellery collection. The collection went on sale on April 22, the 40th anniversary of Earth Day, and includes earrings and pendants made from 100 per cent recycled silver and packaging materials. The collection, which is available in 775 Sears stores throughout the U.S. and on Sears.com, includes basic and classic designs with some pieces featuring recycled symbols.

TAG Heuer Introduces New Chronograph Watch TAG Heuer has announced the introduction of the Carrera Calibre 1887 Chronograph, the first TAG Heuer watch to be powered by the luxury watchmaker’s new Calibre 1887 chronograph movement. The mechanism is comprised of 320 components, which are viewable through the Carrera’s scratch-resistant sapphire caseback, and includes the groundbreaking TAG Heuer oscillating pinion. The dial of the timepiece, which is available in black or silver, hosts three counters – chronograph hour, permanent running second and a chronograph minute – stainless steel bracelet or black alligator strap.

Breguet Reveals New Tradition 7047 WatchWatchmaker Breguet has unveiled the new platinum Tradition 7047 model with a balance-spring escapement in silicon, a material that is much lighter than metal and impervious to magnetic fields. This new timepiece also incudes tourbillon and fusée and chain transmission – a major watchmaking accomplishment due to the extremely complex construction of the Breguet overcoil balance-spring – and offers a 50-hour power reserve. The mechanism is cased in a 41mm platinum Calibre 569 case with a sapphire crystal fitted into the back.

Rare Red Diamond Fails to Sell at Sotheby’s AuctionA rare red diamond went unsold at a Sotheby’s auction in Australia. The diamond, set in a platinum ring surrounded by colourless diamonds and two blue diamonds with an estimated value of between US$654,906 and US$935,580, is from Rio Tinto’s Argyle Mine in Western Australia. Despite the rarity of the red diamond, bids for the piece failed to reach the minimum bid. However, Australia Broadcasting Company has reported that quiet negotiations continue behind the scenes between the stone’s seller and potential buyers.

news | trends | events

Birks Introduces New Designer Esty Birks has welcomed a new exclusive designer to its team – contemporary jewellery designer Esty Grossman. Born in Andalusia, raised in Montreal and with a home base in the French Riviera, Esty is known for her handcrafted fluid pieces that embrace the designer’s love of nature and the sea. Esty has designed seven exclusive collections for Birks – Needlefish, Seaside, Seaside Pearls, Swirl, French Riviera, Fan Coral and Pommette.

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800-580-0942; www.canadianjewellers.com 800-558-6411 • www.JewelersMutual.ca

Canadian Jewellers Association is the voice of the Canadian jewelleryindustry, providing leadership in ethics, education and communication.Here are some of the benefits you will enjoy by becoming a member:

• Participate in consumer outreach branding program leading to increased jewellery sales.

• Receive promotional rates on education courses such as JETS (Jewellery Education Training System), including free access to JM University, an online security training course offered through Jewelers Mutual.

• Receive extensive and evolving member benefit programs resulting in substantial cost savings.

• Benefit from CJA advocacy with all levels of government and learnabout new laws and regulations specific to our industry.

Become a member today by visiting www.canadianjewellers.comand completing a membership application.

Jewelers Mutual was founded by jewellers in 1913 and remainsthe leading insurer solely dedicated to insuring jewellery and thejewellery industry. Here are just some of the benefits you’ll receiveby becoming a policyholder:

• Customize your insurance policy whether you are a retailer,manufacturer, wholesaler, designer, or appraiser.

• Get superior claims service – 99.9% of our policyholders rateour claim service as good or excellent.

• Gain free access to Jewelers Mutual’s library of security training courses and materials.

• Depend on an insurance company that is financially soundand has been rated A+ Superior for 23 years by A.M. BestCompany.

Contact us today for a free quote.

Celebrating a great partnershipJewelers Mutual is proud to partner with the Canadian Jewellers Association (CJA) to enhance the services each organization provides to theCanadian jewellery industry. Together, Jewelers Mutual and CJA will work to assure the health and vitality of the jewellery industry and develop better products and services for you.

J E W E L E R S M U T UA L I S E X C L U S I V E LY E N D O R S E D B Y T H E C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R S A S S O C I AT I O N


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Bulova Unveils New Timekeeping TechnologyYork-based Bulova Corp. has revealed its latest timekeeping breakthrough – the Precisionist Technology timepiece. According to Bulova, it is “the most accurate watch with a continuously sweeping second hand” that is accurate to 10 seconds per year. Bulova has also added a third prong to the standard two-prong quartz crystal, which will result in eight times the vibration frequency of a traditional quartz watch. � e watches from the Precisionist line will be available in the fourth quarter incentive programs and will be delivered in October.

TAG Heuer Unveils Women’s TimepiecesSwiss luxury watchmaker TAG Heuer has unveiled new women’s timepieces from its Formula 1 and Carrera collections. � e Formula 1 capsule collection is a ceramic and stainless steel timepiece with diamond

options. � e Carrera Calibre 5 is a steel timepiece embellished with diamonds and a white mother-of-pearl dial.

Kardashian Jewellery Line to be Carried at Ylang 23Texas-based Ylang 23 Jewelry has announced it will be the � rst retailer to carry the new Kardashian jewellery collection for Virgins, Saints and Angels. � e collection, consisting of 15-to-20 pieces – is a collaborative e� ort between Kim, Kourtney and Khloe Kardashian, who shot to stardom thanks to their VH1 Reality Show. � e collection features pieces made from bronze, sterling silver and crystals. � e sisters will honour their Armenian heritage by including symbols like Armenian crosses and Magdalena necklaces.

Rare Pink Diamond Sets World Auction RecordA rare pink diamond set two world auction records at a recent Christie’s sale in Hong

Kong. � e Vivid Pink, a rare 5-carat pink diamond, sold for US$10.7 million, the highest price ever for any pink diamond at auction. At US$2.1 million per carat, the highest price per carat for any gemstone. � e cushion-shaped diamond, which was estimated to sell between $5 million to $7 million, was set in a ring by top international jeweller Gra� .

Smithsonian, QVC Team Up to Launch Historically-Inspired Jewellery Collection� e Smithsonian Institute and QVC have teamed up to o� er a jewellery collection based on objects in the National Gem and Mineral Collection. � e two parties have entered into a licensing agreement to produce a collection comprised of earrings, rings, bracelets, pins and brooches, as well as replicas of pieces in the museum’s collection. � is is the � rst time the Smithsonian has entered into a partnership with a retailer to sell jewellery based on its collection.

Rolex Announces Winners of Inaugural Youth Award Rolex has announced the winners of the inaugural Young Laureates Program, an initiative aimed at supporting visionary young men and women under 30 and enabling them to implement inventive ideas that tackle the world’s most pressing issues – science and health, applied technology, exploration, the environment and cultural preservation. Presented by CEO Bruno Meier, the fi ve winners of the $50,000 prize are 27-year-old Nnaemeka Ikegwuonu from Nigeria, 25-year-old Reese Fernandez from the Philippines, 26-year-old Jacob Colker from the U.S., 28-year-old Bruktawit Tigabu from Ethiopia and 29-year-old Piyush Tewari from India.BERGEON SA

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Hermès Launches First Fine Jewellery CollectionHermès, the luxury brand known for its elegant leather goods and apparel, has launched its first fine jewellery collection with accessories designer Paul Hardy. The 14-piece equestrian-themed collection is called Haute Bijouterie and includes a 36.16-carat whip-shaped Fouet diamond necklace with 3,669 diamonds, and the horse-hoof-inspired rose gold and black jade Centaure necklace, bracelet, earrings and rings. Prices range from US$23,675 to US$880,000. Each piece is packaged in a custom black alligator leather box with a real zebra skin mat. This annoucement has sent fashion follwers into a frenzy, as details on the future of the collection are sparce, including details on how many pieces the next collection will carry or how often the line will be available to consumers.

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Signature Engravings Offering JCK SpecialSignature Engraving Systems is offering attendees of the 2010 JCK Shows in Toronto and Las Vegas an opportunity to receive $1,300 in free equipment. Signature, a leading provider of computerized engravers, has announced that will be offering the Name Necklace Machining Center at no additional charge to customers who purchase a Signature 8080 Plus or 8080 Super at the show. The Machining Center is an additional attachment that is used to manufacture custom charms and name necklaces.

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Precious Metals

stock index

Agnico-Eagle Mines AEM TSX $60.720 $60.380 -0.56% $77.320 $50.800 $149.3 138.74 9,448.66

Alamos Gold AGI TSX $13.770 $14.190 3.05% $14.690 $7.250 $52.7 25.78 1,558.77

Anglogold Ashanti Ltd. AU NYSE $37.580 $38.580 2.66% $47.520 $29.830 $1,273.0 20.99 10,840.98

Barrick Gold Corp. ABX TSX $40.050 $39.650 -1.00% $50.530 $33.010 $2,096.0 13.88 38,974.22

Compania Minas Buenaventu BVN NYSE $32.740 $31.600 -3.48% $42.690 $19.090 $243.5 10.86 8,040.30

Eldorado Gold ELD TSX $13.580 $13.760 1.33% $15.890 $8.680 $81.6 49.36 7,390.99

First Quantum Minerals FM TSX $86.410 $78.730 -8.89% $100.320 $37.100 $656.3 12.42 6,187.39

Freeport-McMoRan FCX NYSE $80.500 $81.180 0.84% $90.550 $38.000 $4,610.0 13.86 34,907.40

Gammon Gold GAM TSX $9.630 $7.030 -27.00% $13.190 $6.610 $68.2 708 965.62

Gold Fields Ltd. (ADR) GFI NYSE $12.070 $12.570 4.14% $15.880 $10.330 $1,075.6 11.64 8,864.36

Goldcorp Inc. G TSX $40.870 $39.440 -3.50% $48.370 $32.390 $691.9 23.63 28,897.53

Harmony Gold Mining Co. (ADR) HMY NYSE $9.620 $9.380 -2.49% $12.390 $8.290 $397.0 28.27 3,996.63

Iamgold Corp. IMG TSX $15.150 $15.180 0.20% $21.950 $9.100 $265.3 42.22 5,594.65

Ivanhoe Mines IVN TSX $16.500 $18.410 11.58% $18.980 $5.510 $11.9 N/A 6,965.97

Kinross Gold K TSX $18.440 $17.940 -2.71% $25.220 $16.520 $699.0 38.13 12,486.72

Lundin Mining LUN TSX $5.190 $5.230 0.77% $5.770 $1.900 $256.7 36.93 3,031.27

Newmont Mining NEM NYSE $50.420 $52.150 3.43% $56.450 $36.770 $2,518.0 18.84 25,053.38

Northgate Minerals Corp. NGX TSX $3.000 $3.030 1.00% $3.700 $1.590 $110.7 33.23 880.79

Pan American Silver PAA TSX $23.360 $25.220 7.96% $28.730 $18.580 $118.6 17.41 2,199.83

PolyMet Mining Corp. POM TSX $2.700 $2.350 -12.96% $3.890 $0.900 $0.0 N/A 326.84

Randgold Resources Ltd. (ADR) GOLD Nasdaq $75.650 $79.920 5.64% $90.300 $42.390 $138.6 22.9 7,200.79

Red Back Mining Inc. RBI TSX $20.200 $23.830 17.97% $24.490 $6.910 $114.0 47.74 5,524.43

Silver Wheaton SLW TSX $15.940 $17.500 9.79% $18.360 $8.310 $90.6 41.9 5,986.69

Southern Copper Corp. SCCO NYSE $31.220 $33.270 6.57% $36.980 $16.990 $1,136.0 29.33 27,600.00

Taseko Mines Ltd. TKO TSX $5.140 $6.090 18.48% $6.190 $1.470 $56.0 84.57 1,114.01

Teck Resources Ltd. TCK.B TSX $41.030 $42.670 4.00% $46.920 $8.250 $2,167.0 12.13 25,136.90

Thompson Creek Metals Co. Inc. TCM TSX $13.720 $13.430 -2.11% $16.500 $5.650 $106.3 6.9 1,873.64

Yamana Gold Inc. YRI TSX $10.320 $10.220 -0.97% $15.000 $8.960 $399.8 37.37 7,495.47

Anglo American PLC AAUKY OTC $20.150 $22.290 10.62% $23.550 $9.060 N/A 21.92 56,740.00

Azure Resources Corp. AZU TSX-V $0.115 $0.120 4.35% $0.155 $0.060 $0.0 6 10.05

BHP Billiton Ltd. BHP NYSE $78.500 $79.190 0.88% $83.200 $43.490 $23.1 23.07 132,974.26

BRC DiamondCore BCD TSX $0.130 $0.130 0.00% $0.180 $0.020 $0.0 N/A 12.96

Diamond Fields Intl. DFI TSX $0.075 $0.085 13.33% $0.110 $0.030 $0.8 N/A 3.99

Diamond North Resources DDN TSX-V $0.270 $0.255 -5.56% $0.395 $0.125 N/A 26.37 19.17

Dios Exploration DOS TSX-V $0.330 $0.345 4.55% $0.375 $0.085 N/A N/A 11.85

Equinox Minerals Ltd. EQN TSX $3.630 $4.070 12.12% $4.680 $1.770 205.84 5.91 2,876.99

Harry Winston Diamond HW TSX $10.300 $10.460 1.55% $13.280 $4.320 $74.8 17.21 801.12

Mountain Province Diamonds MPV TSX $2.050 $2.120 3.41% $3.310 $1.050 $0.0 N/A 134.19

Peregrine Diamonds Ltd. PGD TSX $1.650 $2.270 37.58% $4.650 $0.540 0 N/A 184.78

Rio Tinto PLC (ADR) RTP NYSE $224.230 $234.970 4.79% $248.970 $120.000 $0.0 10.6 58,566.27

Sanatana Diamonds Inc. STA TSX-V $0.090 $0.120 33.33% $0.250 $0.055 N/A N/A 7.53

Shear Minerals Ltd. SRM TSX-V $0.065 $0.060 -7.69% $0.120 $0.035 N/A N/A 5.28

Starfield Resources Inc. SRU TSX $0.095 $0.090 -5.26% $0.260 $0.085 $0.0 N/A 29.94

Stornoway Diamond SWY TSX $0.500 $0.630 26.00% $0.800 $0.105 $0.0 N/A 165.67

True North Gems TGX TSX-V $0.090 $0.085 -5.56% $0.215 $0.080 N/A N/A 6.75

Vale (ADR) VALE NYSE $30.150 $33.460 10.98% $34.710 $14.580 $6,333.0 9.84 161,611.80

Birks and Mayors BMJ AMEX $0.820 $0.980 19.51% $1.800 $0.260 N/A N/A 11.16

Fossil Inc. FOSL Nasdaq $38.930 $41.070 5.50% $41.500 $17.190 $527.8 19.2 2,741.01

Sears Canada SCC TSX $28.840 $28.600 -0.83% $29.850 $18.600 $1,525.1 13.49 3,077.96

Signet Group SIG NYSE $29.540 $33.980 15.03% $34.380 $14.800 $1,203.6 16.1 2,905.29

Tiffany and Co. TIF NYSE $45.600 $50.200 10.09% $51.390 $23.850 $981.4 23.23 6,247.39

Wal-Mart WMT NYSE $53.970 $54.110 0.26% $56.270 $47.350 $113,651.0 14.84 206,168.30

Zale Corp. ZLC NYSE $3.030 $3.240 6.93% $8.510 $1.800 $582.3 N/A 103.81

Gold COMX $1,135.200

Silver COMX $17.710

Platinum NYME $1,692.800

Palladium COMX $533.200

*This selection of securities is not to be interpreted as a solicitation and companies are not endorsed by Rive Gauche Media.

Company Name StockSymbol

Exchange Price03/11/10

Price04/18/10

% Change

52-WeekHigh

52-WeekLow

Last QuarterRevenue ($Millions)

P/ERatio

MarketCap

($Millions)

GeMstones

Jewellers & retailers

coMModities

Bulgari Retrospective On Display in AustraliaBulgari’s retrospective exhibition, Between Eternity and History: 1884-2009, has arrived in Australia. The exhibition was developed to celebrate the Italian brand’s 125th anniversary, from the opening of its first shop in Via Sistina to present day, and includes over 500 pieces of jewelry, watchmaking, objets d’art and never-before-seen artifacts including sketches, drawings and photographs of famous artists, aristocrats and celebrities. Among the treasures on display will be gold and enamel snake wristwatches worn by Diana Vreeland, a gilded ‘gemme nummarie’ necklaces assembled around oversized Roman coins and a diamond brooch with a central emerald of more than 18-carats given to Elizabeth Taylor by Richard Burton for their engagement in 1962.

Michael Kaye’s Jewellery Line Coming To CanadaCanadian fashion designer Michael Kaye’s new jewellery line, Michael Kaye Bijoux, is making waves in New York and the native-Albertan hopes to bring his latest collection to Canadian retailers. The 50-piece Ladies Who Lunch collection is described as bold, colourful and sophisticated and includes necklaces, earrings and bracelets.

Women’s Jewellery Association Honours Shining Star RecipientsThe Women’s Jewellery Association (WJA), an association of professional women in the jewellery industry, has announced the recipients of its Shining Star award. The award was given to 13 women, one from each WJA chapter and recognizes the award winner’s service, passion and commitment her local WJA chapter. The 2010 Shining Star Award winners include Karen Janowski from Tiffany and Co., Judi Shechter, GG, CG, AJP from the Gemological Institute of America and Merrill Essex, GG, Essex Antiques and Collectibles.

Faberge To Launch More Conventional Jewellery CollectionThe recently revived Fabergé, known for its luxuriously ornate eggs, is set to launch a more conventional jewellery line. Designed by French boutique jeweller Frederic Zaavy, the 132-piece collection will use various stones on each piece to create mosaic effects. [CJ]

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miningnews

Golden Hope Completes First Phrase Drilling Junior mineral exploration company Golden Hope Mines Ltd. has advanced towards completion of the first phase of its 2010 diamond drilling program on Bellechasse-Timmins. The company has completed seven of 16 drill holes, for a total of 1090 meters, and expects that this stage of the 2010 drilling program will be completed during the first week of May 2010. The purpose of the first phase of drilling is to test for extensions of zones T1, T2A, T2B and Ascot and to explore the road zones which lies between T1 and Ascot structures.

Goldcorp’s $100 DealSenior gold producer Goldcorp Inc. has participated in the $100 million bought deal and non-brokered private placement with Terrane Metals. Goldcorp will take up 27.3 million units at $1.10 per unit while the other 63.7 million units were purchased by syndicate underwriters led by National Bank Financial. Each unit consists of one common share and one-half common share purchase warrant. Terrane, a Canadian minearal development and exploration company, will use the net proceeds to fund the construction program at Mt. Milligan copper-gold development northwest of Prince George, BC.

Dundee Precious Metals Reports First Quarter 2010 ResultsDundee Precious Metals Inc. announced results for the first quarter ended March 31, 2010. DPM reported a first quarter net loss of $48.3 million, compared with a first quarter 2009 loss of $4.9 million. The first quarter 2010 loss includes net impairment provisions of $50.6 million related to a proposed Bulgarian metals processing facility. “During the quarter,” said Jonathan Goodman, President and CEO, “we completed the purchase of the Tsumeb smelter in Namibia, securing long-term processing of our Chelopech concentrate, and the Chelopech mine/mill expansion is fully underway, on schedule and on budget. We are looking forward to an exciting year which will see significant advances in the Chelopech expansion, completion of the commissioning of the Tsumeb oxygen plant, an expansion of our Kapan mine in Armenia and a new project plan for our Krumovgrad gold property.” Net revenue from the sale of concentrates of

$20.5 million in the first quarter of 2010 was $1.2 million or six per cent lower than the corresponding period in the previous year, due to a 29 per cent decrease in deliveries of concentrates produced at Chelopech, lower gold in concentrate sold and net unfavourable mark-to-market adjustments and final settlements.

Yamana Gold Announces 50 Per Cent Increase in DividendYamana Gold Inc. announced that the Company has increased its dividend. The Board of Directors has approved an increase in Yamana’s dividend to an annulalized $0.06 per share, or $0.015 per share per quarter. This represents a 50 per cent increase over the prior annualized divident of $0.04 per share, or $0.01 per share per quarter. The dividend increase will be in effect for the seond quarter divident, payable July 14, 2010, to holders of record at the close of business on June 30, 2010. The dividend is an “eligible dividend” for Canadian tax purposes.

11.34 Carat Diamond Recovered From Obtala’s Sierra Leone Diamond ProjectUK resources investment and development company Obtala Resources has, through the Company’s diamond mining operation at Konoma, Sierra Leone, recovered 1,000.54 carats from 1,540 stones, including an 11.34 carat stone. Mining licenses at the Sierra Leone operation are held by the 100 per cent-owned Obtala subsidiary, Sierra Leone Hard Rock Limited (SLHR). After SLHR was acquired in January 2010, Obtala also restarted the Dense Medium Separation (DMS) plant. Chairman of Obtala Frank Scolaro said in a statement, “I am very pleased with the progress being made by our team on the mine site over the last month. We were fully aware when starting-up that it takes time to revive the operation, which had been sitting on care-and-maintenance since 2008. We have fully staffed the operation and intend to ensure that operating costs are kept to a minimum. We are currently operating at less than 40 per cent capacity but will continue to ramp up production levels over the coming months. The volume of stones recovered against a low level of gravel feed is an achievement highlighting the strong upside growth potential of the project.”

Sunrise Announces Deal on Sudbury Gold MineMacclesfield-based mining company Sunrise Diamonds has announced that the Company has signed a three-year option deal on Long Lake Gold Mine near Sudbury, Ontario. The mine at Long Lade had historic production of 57,000 uonces of gold from 200,000 tonnes of ore between 1910-1916 and 1932-1939. Sunrise acquired the options from local prospector Gordan Salo. Sunrise has the option to acquire a 100 per cent interest by making staged payments totalling (CDN)$575,000 over a three-year period, by meeting exploration expenditures of (CDN)$500,000 in that period, and by issuing up to 5,000,000 five-year share warrants. Said Sunrise Chairman Patrick Cheetham, “We are very excited to have been granted an option over the Long Lake Gold Mine. This agreement secures a key objective after a long and intensive search for a new gold project for the company.” He added, “The company intends to start exploration in and around the Long Lake Gold Mine immediately and expects to carry out diamond drilling this summer season. Work will also be carried out to evaluate the 200,000 tonne gold-tailings resource which remains on site.”

Northern Shield and Discovery Harbour Announce Drill Hole Assay ResultsNorthern Shield Resources Inc. and its partner Discovery Harbour Resources Corp. announced that assay results from the first seven of the 10 planned drill-holes at Northern Shield’s Wabassi property in northern Ontario have been received. The drill program is funded under the terms of the option agreement between Northern Shield and Discovery Harbour. “The commitment to this project by our partners and their rapid and aggressive exploration approach is a testament to the excitement generated from this new discovery says Northern Shield President and CEO, Ian Bliss. Executive Vice President of Discovery Harbour Michael Senn added that continued exloration at Wabassi will be directed towards further understanding the VMS system on the property, as well as the discovery of high grade nicke-copper mineralization, an indication of which as seen in two of the drill holes. [CJ]

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The De Beers Canada Victor Mine is Ontario’s � rst diamond mine and the second mine in Canada for the company. Discovered as part of a diamond-bearing kimberlite cluster in 1987, the

Victor Mine o� cially opened on July 26, 2008 and currently employs approximately 500 people. In early April, Birks invited us to view the � rst diamonds to see the outside world in an exclusive unveiling. � e Ontario certi� ed diamonds made their � rst public appearance at the Toronto � agship store from April 26 – May 1, and Birks announced there will be a traveling show that will visit other cities to showcase this industry milestone.

Canadian Jeweller magazine (CJ): Tell us about those involved in the project at the De Beers Canada Victor Mine.

Birks: Crossworks Manufacturing Ltd. is a manufacturing company in Sudbury, that will cut and polish 10 per cent of the diamonds from De Beers Canadas Victor Mine. It operates three factories in Canada (Sudbury, Yellowknife and Vancouver) and is the largest manufacturer of branded Canadian diamonds in the world. Crossworks is also the only company with diamonds that are mined, cut and polished in Ontario.

CJ: What is an Ontario certi� ed diamond? How do the Ontario certi� ed diamonds compare to other Birks diamonds?

Birks: � ese are the � rst o� cial Ontario diamonds from the De Beers Canada Victor Mine that have credentials and are mined, cut and polished entirely in Ontario. Each diamond comes with a certi� cate from the government of Ontario, indicating the stone number, which is also etched in the stone itself. Ontario stones purchased at Birks will also come with a Birks certi� cate and will be etched with a Maple Leaf. � e Ontario certi� ed diamonds are certi� ed to Birks diamond standards, o� ering maximum brilliance and employing the GIA diamond grading scale, with a clarity of IF to SI1 and colours from D through I.

CJ: Can Ontario certi� ed diamonds be purchased elsewhere in Canada?

Birks: Yes. � ey will be available elsewhere, but Birks will be the � rst to make Ontario diamonds available to the public.

CJ: Tell us about the Bespoke Diamond program that will also be available with the traveling show.

Birks: We’re o� ering our clients an opportunity to have an experience that allows them to design a piece of diamond jewellery that is completely made-to-order from its transformation from a rough to polished diamond in its � nal form. � e client will be able to purchase a rough diamond and decide how it will be cut, polished and set; jewellery will be set at the Montreal studio. � is active involvement in the polishing of the diamond o� ers a unique experience that has never been o� ered before by a retailer in North America and possibly the world – the bespoke diamond. Birks will bring the Ontario diamonds (rough and polished) to other cities in Ontario and then across Canada before they come back to the Toronto Bloor Street store in time for the Toronto International Film Festival. Dates were not available at time of print.

CJ: Why are Ontario certi� ed diamonds unique in the marketplace?

Birks: Consumers who purchase an Ontario certi� ed diamond can feel good about contributing to the prosperity of the province while possessing a diamond that is linked to the beauty of Canada. � ese diamonds are entirely sorted, cut and polished in Ontario, thus contributing to the local economy. It brings diamonds into the consumer concept of “buy local.” Every diamond is unique, but a Canadian diamond, in particular an Ontario certi� ed diamond, guarantees the exact square kilometre a diamond originates from and the exact location it was polished. [CJ]

It’s been almost two years since the Victor Mine opened in Ontario, and Birks held a prestigious unveiling of the fi rst lot of Ontario certifi ed diamonds. BY PAUL AGUIRRE

miningfeature

First Class

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facevalue


By Duncan Parker

Appraisal: Updated

Looking at the current world of gems and jewellery, very little has remained the same as it was 100 years ago. In fact, very little has remained the same as it was even 20 years ago.

When I started out in this appraising gambit, only (dare I say it?) 20 years ago, there were certainly some challenges, including treatments and synthetics. Technically, synthetic gems did

exist over 100 years ago, but the world was a simpler place then, and I’m not quite old enough to remember it (I’m pretty sure there is a diamond setter nearby who does remember, but I feel it would be rude to ask). There have always been issues; they keep life interesting.

The biggest changes in the past few years are ease of communication, instant connectivity, vertical integration and simple, far-reaching internatonal trade. A gem dealer in New York, Idar Oberstein, or Toronto is no more knowledgable, connected or savvy than one in Bangkok, Colombo or Jaipur.

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The difference now is that the majority of coloured gem and diamond dealers have direct connections to affiliate operations in one or more far-away places. Jewellery manufacture has moved to places that can provide the most cost-effective labour, while head offices remain in locations closer to the market for the finished goods.

With this globalization, there have been necessary changes in the way things are done through the whole supply chain. On average, the transportation of gems and jewellery through the trade around the world is faster than virtually any other commodity. Most gems and jewellery in our trade are carried by buyers and sellers or by couriers, and take days, and not weeks or months, to make their journey. What was produced in Indonesia last week might be for sale in a Montreal store next week.

The immediacy of shipping and often transparent borders means that we often have instant awareness of what is happening in the trade around the world. If some event occurs in one country, it can cause a knock-on effect quickly through the trade. We might read about protests in the streets of Bangkok one day, and next week find that a gem dealer is having a hard time filling an order for a sapphire. Madagascar recently enacted an embargo on the export of gems, and with that, there was an almost instant decrease in availability of pink sapphires.

All of these factors lead to a desire for standardization of practice and terminology for the global trade. There are calls for international governance, and consumers expect common practice from all potential sources of supply of goods or services.

As an appraiser, I see the results of international awareness and globally integrated markets. For decades, the grading of diamonds has been gradually honing in on standardization. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) clarity and colour standards have been taking hold, and now it is highly unusual to find a diamond graded anywhere without mention of clarities and colours in GIA terminology.

The fact that, through the Internet, I can buy a diamond from an unknown dealer from an unknown place in the world has led to

greater standardization of grading, and to a vast number of diamond grading reports being issued. If the GIA uses consecutive numbers, the latest report I’ve seen suggests that GIA has produced more diamond gradings than McDonald’s has sold hamburgers. A “cert” from an internationally recognized and respected lab provides an Internet purchaser with a certain level of comfort in making a purchase online.

The gem buyer is more connected, though perhaps no more knowledgable, than ever. He (and it is more commonly males buying on the Internet) can collect data from around the world, and the world is happy to supply it. The user of gem and jewellery information requires some consistency, and this is great for an organization like GIA because the consumer can compare gems on a level basis if all diamonds are graded by the same organization. The consumer gets confused trying to buy a diamond if one is Top Wesselton, and one is G colour.

Several things have attended the growth of demand for diamonds with a pedigree in the form of a GIA, American Gem Society (AGS), Belgian High Diamond Council (HRD), or similar report. The consumer is aware of so many particulars of a diamond that every appraiser must be able to confirm details and provide additional factors that aren’t included on a cert. The Internet purchaser will go to an appraiser to confirm that a purchase is the same as was stated by the dealer.

Cut grade is very important to consumers, and appraisers must have equipment to verify proportions of diamonds. Sarin or OGI non-contact measurement hardware and accompanying software, along with light performance software such as AGS ASET, is necessary to verify ideal and excellent cut diamonds. These allow labs and appraisers to prepare documents that provide records of diamond proportions. With standardization throughout the trade and dispensed through the Internet, consumers come to diamond purchases armed with mountains of statistics and now expect the appraiser to provide sophisticated analysis of diamond cut that can be compared with others before committing to a purchase.

“ The Internet purchaser will go to an appraiser to confirm that

a purchase is the same as was stated by the dealer.”


CANADA

TORONTO. MONTREAL, YELLOWKNIFEVANCOUVER, CALGARY Suite 111, 5109-48th St.27 Queen Street, Suite 604 Yellowknife, NT X1A1N5Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6 Tel.(867) 873-6305 Tel. 416-362-9643 Fax (867) 669-9994 Fax 416-362-9771 E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected]

U.S.A.

NEW YORK580 Fifth Avenue, Lobby 1New York, NY 10036Tel. 1-212-840-8330/2Fax. 1-212-840-1368E-mail: [email protected]

CHICAGO MIAMI 5 South Wabash Ave., Suite 1414 536 NE 1 Street, Suite # 402 Chicago, IL 60603 Miami, FL 33132Tel. 1-312-346-1507 Tel. 1-305-358-8610 Fax. 1-312-346-1896 Fax. 1-305-358-8612E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]

KENTUCKY LOS ANGELES911 Grade Lane 550 South Hill St., Suite 1590 Louisville, KY 40213 Los Angeles, CA 90013 Tel. 1-502-361-3331/7 Tel. 1-213-627-1103 Fax. 1-502-361-3445 Fax. 1-213-627-1047 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]

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There are some other things a consumer wishes to be made aware of. In this small world, we are aware of improper activities, and in attempting to avoid purchasing something that is compromised in some way, consumers would like to know that their diamonds are conflict-free, for example. The United Nations introduced the Kimberley Process (KP) to track rough diamonds to ensure that the consumer is not buying a diamond from a conflict zone. Assurances are passed on to the consumer in the form of labels and statements on invoices and memos that diamonds are conflict free. This process, although good in intention, is not very reliable. We are seeing diamonds from Zimbabwe entering the market, for example, yet they are almost assuredly of violent or dubious provenance. An appraiser has no way of truly verifying a polished diamond as being associated with a certain KP certificate. The certificates are only issued on rough diamonds.

Something that appraisers are able to verify is the treatment of many gems. The glass filling of rubies, or the insertion of pieces of ruby into glass is endemic in the market right now, and easily identified. Appraisers are called on to deliver identifications and values. Yet, the identification of glass filled ruby as “glass filled ruby” draws the ire of some dealers. We are now seeing certificates that dance around the correct description. I have seen descriptions from identification certificates as “heat treated ruby” for ruby that is in fact at least half glass. At a conference in Thailand last year, I heard a minister responsible for trade admonish the assembled gemmologists to stop describing the locally produced glass filled ruby as “glass filled” because it was bad for business.

Glass filled ruby was selling at the Tucson gem shows this year for as little as $1 per carat. The stuff is hardly ruby, and is sometimes selling for less than cubic zirconia: The Canadian Guidelines with Respect to the Sale and Marketing of Diamonds Gemstones and Pearls requires disclosure of detectable treatments that affect the appearance of and apparent value of a gem.

With the shrinking world, we are seeing many sets of standards being harmonized. The international jewellery organization, CIBJO, the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA), the International Coloured Gem Association (ICA) and groups of labs, which all previously had their own standards, are increasingly working to harmonize terminology and standards. An example is the recent move by CIBJO to allow the use of terms such as “laboratory grown” as an alternative to “synthetic.” This was a hard won move, argued against by many of the “we’ve always done it this way and it worked for my grandparents” types on CIBJO, but it finally brought CIBJO in line with almost everyone else. Moves such as this should be followed by labs and appraisers the world over. Common terminology and standard uses will only help to provide the consumer with a greater comfort in making a decision to purchase when buying gems and jewellery. [CJ]


TORONTO. MONTREAL, MALCA-AMIT YELLOWKNIFEVANCOUVER, CALGARY ~ NORTH AMERICA ~ Suite 111, 5109-48th St.27 Queen Street, Suite 604 Yellowknife, NT X1A1N5

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NEW YORK MIAMI CHICAGO580 Fifth Avenue, Lobby 1 36 NE 1 Street, Suite # 402 5 South Wabash Ave., Suite 1414

New York, NY 10036 Miami, FL 33132 Chicago, IL 60603 Tel. 1-212-840-8330/2 Tel. 1-305-358-8610 Tel. 1-312-346-1507Fax. 1-212-840-1368 Fax. 1-305-358-8612 Fax. 1-312-346-1896

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By Carol Besler

PhotograPhy By Katie huisman

M arcella Cusano, who runs Montecristo Jewellers in Vancouver, can say with more authenticity than most that she grew up in the jewellery industry. She was born the day before her

father opened the first Montecristo store in 1978, “so we are twins,” she jokes. By the time she was five years old, she was going to the store “to hang out with dad,” and by the time she was eight, she was answering the telephones, opening the door, meeting and greeting people “while smiling and looking cute.” she says. Marcella officially joined Montecristo Jewellers full-time in 2003. “Previously I was a grade five-and-six school teacher. So I went from educating children, to educating adults!” Today, she is CEO of Montecristo, although she doesn’t call herself that – “I don’t really have a title, as we are all team players, however my role is to oversee everything.”

TheArtisans

Marcella Cusano talks about the family jewels, and why she flew to London to deliver a wedding band.

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Montecristo Jewellers is a family business, founded by Pasquale Cusano, who came to Canada in 1967, when he was 17 years old.

“This was out of necessity,” says Marcella. “He was a farmer, and the Arno in Florence, Italy, had flooded and ruined all the crops. His family was sponsored by his uncle to come to Canada in search of a better life.”

Pasquale arrived in the New World without knowing a word of English and with no trade. He took a succession of jobs in order to make ends meet: at one point he worked in construction by day and in a bakery at night. “But he always had a passion for jewellery,” says Marcella, “and in 1976, he joined Firenza Jewellers, owned by Osvaldo Giulianetti. Pasquale worked in the store during the day, and at night he learned how to make jewellery. He aspired to have his own store one day and be a leader in the field, by creating original designs. On April 1, 1978 he opened Montecristo Jewellers.” His motto was: “Not to be the biggest, but to be the best.” Today, the store still specializes in handcrafted jewellery. Along the way, it has developed a solid business as one of the most important retailers in Canada.

The store’s name is borrowed from the legend of the Count of Montecristo, the Alexander Dumas novel, about a young man falsely accused of treason by a jealous friend who wanted to steal his girlfriend. The Count escapes and uses a hidden treasure to exact his revenge. “In the story, the Count of Montecristo finds a treasure chest filled with gold. Our treasure chest was empty, so we needed to create the jewels ourselves,” laughs Marcella. The first Montecristo location was on Victoria Drive and 41st Street in Vancouver, a European part of town that has since evolved and changed and therefore relocated in 2009 to Metropolis at Metrotown. Montecristo branched out in 1983 to Oakridge Mall and then, in 2003, opened its striking downtown boutique in a Heritage building, Credit Foncier, at the corner of West Hastings and Hornby. The three locations are all going strong. At present, the Montecristo Oakridge location is undergoing a major expansion.

Before taking a full-time post in the family business, Marcella completed a diamond grading course as well as a jewellery design course in Florence, Italy, both offered through GIA. Her most important lessons, however, were learned by working alongside her father. “He


coverstory

has taught me about the importance of honesty and integrity,” says Marcella. “He also taught me that quality and, most of all, passion, are essential ingredients for a successful jewellery business. You need to be self-motivated, and have the desire to continue to learn and strive for perfection. It is not about being the biggest, but the best!” says Marcella. “It is important to be driven by quality, detail and design, and to lead by example.”

She is joined in the Cusano quest for perfection by her brother, Giancarlo, 23, who serves as financial controller for both Montecristo Jewellers and the family’s other business, a publishing company that produces NUVO magazine and Montecristo magazine, where brother Massimo, 27, is office manager. The magazines are an extension of Pasquale’s commitment to quality and prestige. Since its first issue in 1998 NUVO, edited by Marcella’s sister, Claudia Cusano, has earned a reputation as Canada’s premier luxury magazine, while Montecristo, a city magazine edited by Jim Tobler, Nuvo’s editor from 2000-2006, has become equally esteemed in the publishing world since it started two years ago. These publishing endeavors are evidence of Pasquale’s entrepreneurial skill and instinct for great design.

Montecristo carries many of the world’s most prestigious brands, many of them exclusively in the stores’s three markets. They include Breguet, Harry Winston, Jaeger Le Coultre, Rolex, Cartier, Bulgari, Omega, Chanel, Hermès, Mikimoto and Wellendorff – some of the most sought-after names in the business. “We have chosen to partner with brands that complement our assortment, yet don’t compete with each other,” says Marcella. The jewellery mix, true to Montecristo’s roots, is all handmade and mostly one-of-a-kind. “Montecristo is a boutique that has created original handcrafted jewellery the artisan way ever since its inception in 1978,” says Marcella. “We work with 18k yellow gold, 19k white gold, and platinum – 95% of our jewellery business is custom. No two Montecristo pieces are the same.”

Not surprisingly, given the nature of the business and the intrinsically personalized nature of a custom jewellery design operation, Montecristo’s main source of new business is word of mouth. “Although we are firm believers in advertising through magazines, newspapers, radio and in-store events to reinforce and create desire, we also recognize that we need to build a relationship with each customer and try to educate them about quality,” says Marcella. “The best form of advertising is through word of mouth.”



So intent is she to build loyalty among clients that Marcella once flew to London to deliver a handcrafted custom designed Montecristo wedding band. “An out-of-town couple was visiting Vancouver for only a day, and wanted to purchase a Montecristo wedding band because they loved our quality and product. As the goldsmiths could not finish it in the short timeframe, I volunteered to deliver. The trip cost me more than the band,” she says, “ But I have gained a customer for life ... and I had always wanted to see London.”

The Cusano philosophy hinges on acknowledging that they are in the luxury business, which means standing behind what they sell. “We provide value and service for the consumer every day,” she says. “We do not inflate prices and then run a sale campaign. In its 32 years in business, Montecristo has never run a sales promotion,” says Marcella. “We think it is essential to be honest and give the best value for the product we deliver. We believe in what we are selling and we have stayed true to our promise of quality and value.”

In fact, when asked what she feels is the top issue facing the jewellery industry today, Marcella answers: “If jewellers take pride in better quality and in educating consumers about quality jewellery, the whole industry would benefit. Nobody NEEDS jewellery. We have to create the desire!” What advice would she give to anyone starting a jewellery business today? “If you are in it for the money, choose another profession. If you are in it for the passion, pay attention to fine details, be willing to continuously learn, think long term and work hard. Remember that the $1,000 sale is just as important as the $100,000 sale.” She adds: “And have fun. Be happy and be passionate!”

When asked what she loves about the business (what’s not to love?), she replies, “I love the people! If you don’t have the people, there would be no business. It’s all about building relationships and maintaining them. Who would be upset to work in a happy environment with beautiful jewels.” [CJ]

“If jewellers take pride in better quality and in

educating consumers about quality jewellery,

the whole industry would benefit.”



coverstory




jvcfeature

In the words of U.S. President Barrack Obama, "We have an obligation and a responsibility to be investing in our students and our schools," and so JVC is proud to be part of the Georgian College award program acknowledging the top three students in the school's Jewellery and Metals Programs. JVC benefits from the wisdom and dedication that Greg Merrall, the program's coordinator, brings to the JVC Board of Directors as well as from a number of the students who bring hard work, enthusiasm and the sheer element of fun volunteering to assist JVC in our fundraising efforts. As we have often said after one of our successful events, if these students are the future of our industry, then we are in good hands! — Phyllis Richard, executive director, JVC.

BY GREG MERRALL

School Cool

I am the coordinator of the Jewellery and Metals Program at Georgian College, in Barrie, Ontario.

My decade as a non-voting director on the Advisory Board of Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC), started in 2000. I was asked to represent my post-secondary educational institution, as well as o� er insight to the other institutions across Canada that provide jewellery programs and courses. � ese colleges o� er a wide spectrum of achievement credentials, from degrees to certi� cates. I don’t pretend to be familiar with the particulars of every school, but I’ve been a teacher for over 20 years, and was in the jewellery industry for 20 years prior to that. I believe I have an understanding of the importance of education as it relates to our industry.

At a Canadian Jewellers Association (CJA) general meeting many years ago, outgoing chairman John Nash of Nash Jewellers in London, Ont., called jewellery students “the future of our industry.” How right he was, and still is. As a director of JVC, I see my role as a link between our industry and our students, making every e� ort to ensure our sta� imparts the primary mandate of the JVC – “advancing ethical practices” in the jewellery industry. Everyone in our industry should have this goal. For too long, aspects of the industry have turned a blind eye to practices that undermine the integrity of our trade. � e most important aspects of a successful jewellery business seamlessly integrate the reality of honesty, respectability, integrity and trustworthiness into their business. � ese are attributes that the JVC, a partner in our industry, relentlessly fosters, promotes and advocates.

We encourage our students to be proactive in their pursuit of a career in the jewellery industry. To that end, I have just returned from the

gem and mineral shows in Tucson. I was there with 34 other sta� students and alumni. � e American Gem T rade Association (AGTA) is kind enough to encourage our participation in this yearly event. � is cooperative learning experience is, I believe, absolutely necessary to better understand our industry. � e students are overwhelmed by the magnitude of what confronts them. � ese shows are a humbling experience for us all. We are there for � ve days and cram nine shows into our itinerary. For the most part, dealers and those with displays are very supportive and encouraging about the future of our industry. One particular incident sums up that experience. Todd Reed’s booth in the AGTA Show impressed and awed us all. Todd spent a good half-hour talking to the students who were fortunate enough to be present. He presented his pieces for inspection, all the while discussing his fabrication and � nishing details. He invited questions, discussed pricing and talked of sourcing materials. He was transparent in his views and opinions. Listening to Todd speak about commitment, passion and dedication, resonated with our group. � ose topics of discussion embraced the ethical practices we wish to advance.

For the past couple of years our students have volunteered at JVC events, including the annual golf tournament and the annual Jewellers' Ball. � ey look forward to these opportunities, to help out and present themselves to those in the industry who are prepared to help the JVC. � is can only auger well for their future.

� e JVC supports and acknowledges our programs through three awards o� ered yearly, to the top academic student in each of our three years. � e students that receive these awards recognize that an industry partner that truly understands the importance of education has rewarded their hard work and commitment. For more information, please visit www.jewelleryschool.ca. [CJ]

Author and his student

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The application of a surface treatment to make a gem look like something different, or to look of better quality than it really is, has been carried out for centuries. This is one of the first things

you learn when working with gems, and one of the most important.

Some coatings and surface treatments are as simple as a coloured pigments painted on the surface of a gem or gem simulant. The ancient Egyptians perfected the method of using a glass coating, glazing carved scarabs and other forms in gems or clay, and colouring them to simulate other gems. Blue glaze was used to imitate turquoise, for example. To this day, we still use such coatings.

The ancient Egyptians and Romans also developed methods of altering gem appearances. Chalcedony, or agate, can be darkened through heating, producing a brown coloured gem. Some Egyptian gems were

patterned or textured by applying an alkalai compound to etch white designs on the surface of chalcedony beads and carvings. This process is still carried out today, producing attractive geometric patterns on beads, which are available in Thailand and China. Sometimes both etching and colouring are applied to the same gem.

Many coatings are not disclosed, but most are detectable. The practice of coating a gem is generally done to improve its appearance; sometimes it will entirely alter it. Gemmologists are generally able to identify these treatments.

There are many coated gems available on the modern market. There is a market for gems in all price brackets, and most coated gems are found in the lower price bracket. The cost of coating a gem is not nearly as great as the cost of a higher quality specimen of the same gem.

Gemmology for the MassesA lesson in coatings and surface treatments.

By The Canadian GemmoloGiCal assoCiaTion

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Among the gems that are coated, topaz is probably the most common. There are many brand names for coated topaz, among which is the most commonly seen: mystic topaz. Many of the coatings on topaz are used to impart an unnatural, but ornamental appearance to the gem. Topaz is often coated with an iridescent multi-hued material that is intended to look colourful rather than realistic. The iridescent coatings are produced in many colours, and are usually applied to colourless topaz.

Many coatings are applied only to the pavilion of the gem because it is not subject to the same wear and tear as the crown. Topaz is a hard gem (hardness 8 on Mohs scale) so it will wear well, but the coating could wear off if it is on the crown.

Topaz of a pink or red colour is quite rare in nature, but is often encountered at modest prices in the marketplace. Like many iridescent coatings, red or pink are sprayed on to the pavilion to produce a colour that wears well. In the case of the pink and red, the purpose is more likely to deceive than to produce a “fun” gem such as mystic topaz.

Diamonds are sometimes coated to alter the colour. A dot of blue is applied near the girdle of an off-colour yellowish diamond to counteract the yellowish colour. More commonly, however, coatings are applied to diamonds to induce apparent colour, rather than reduce it. Coatings of bright colours, such as pink, blue, orange, and others are applied to the pavilion of diamonds to create the impression of fancy colours.

Very pale Tanzanite is sometimes coated to induce a better-selling blue colour. This coating is usually on the pavilion, as with so many other coatings. Tanzanite is very distinctly pleochroic, showing blue when viewed from one direction and violet when viewed from the other. Coated tanzanite is conversely weak in pleochroic colours because the colour is not inherent to the gem, but just on the surface.

Surprisingly, cubic zirconia is also coated. As a hard gem, it wears well and makes a good candidate for colourful coatings. An increasing amount of cubic zirconia is treated with iridescent coatings to produce an appearance similar to mystic topaz in many different colours. As with topaz and diamond, the coloured coatings are usually applied to the pavilion to avoid abrasion.

In gem testing, the identification of a coating can often be detected by the presence of scratches in the coating, particularly at facet junctions. Coated gems are often not terribly costly, so although they may be set

with the coated pavilion protected in a piece of jewellery, they may not have been handled carefully prior to setting, so abrasions can occur in transit and handling.

Coatings are usually not uniform in coverage over the surface of the gem. Irregularity of the coating is of some assistance in identification, often revealing totally uncoated areas. Examining a gem from several different directions is important, and often, through simple visual examination, a colourless, or pale coloured crown can be revealed on a distinctly coloured pavilion. Though this is not proof positive of coating, it should be enough to induce further scrutiny.

Most gems with pavilion coatings still display their regular refractive index, and specific gravity will remain the same regardless of most coatings.

Interestingly, some companies are selling cubic zirconia as “diamond-coated.” The apparent purpose of a diamond coating on cubic zirconia is to create a very hard and durable diamond surface on the cubic zirconia. If the purpose is to induce durability, the coating needs to be on the crown. Unfortunately there is no identifiable feature that can help a gemmologist determine the presence of diamond coating on cubic zirconia. In fact, there have been no indications of the presence of diamond at all in tests that have been done by most labs.

As long as they are not misrepresented, many coatings can legitimately serve to improve the appearance of an inexpensive gem. Many beads of ruby, sapphire and emerald that were originally nearly colourless have been treated with resin coatings of bright colours. As with most coatings, identification is made through the presence of chips or abrasions to the surface. In beads, the coating is often found to be chipped around the drill hole.

With the exception of materials that claim to be diamond-coated, and might not be coated at all, the coatings on gems are usually identifiable due to scratches, abrasions or chips on the coating. Uneven and irregular coatings are also helpful in identification.

It is always recommended to examine the surface of any gem carefully and to look from several different directions if possible. Increasing numbers of gems are coated, and this can have a substantial effect on the apparent value of a gem. Identification of coatings is generally simple, and takes only a few extra moments when identifying a gem. It is always worth spending the time to be sure of what you have. [CJ]

“As long as they are not misrepresented, many coatings can legitimately serve to improve

the appearance of an inexpensive gem. Many beads of ruby, sapphire and emerald that were

originally nearly colourless have been treated with resin coatings of bright colours.”

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EXCELLENCE iNdesignAward Ceremony & Reception

The Annual

To find out how you can become a sponsor of this prestigious event, please contactOlivier Felicio at [email protected] or call 416-203-7900 X 6107.

For complete details on how to enter your designs, contactDan Hare at [email protected] or 416-203-7900 X 6101.

Entry deadline is July 2nd, 2010, 5 p.m.

Excellence In Design_NEW_May5:Layout 1 5/7/10 1:18 PM Page 1

DESIGNER’S NAME

COMPANY OR STUDENT AFFILIATION

ADDRESS CITY

PROVINCE POSTAL CODE

PHONE FAX

EMAIL ADDRESS

CATEGORY

TYPE OF JEWELLERY VALUE OF DESIGN (SPECIFY RETAIL OR MATERIALS)

Describe the piece, including metal used and karat value, gemstone types, weights, cuts and colour. (Complex designs should be accompaniedby technical details.)

ENCLOSED IS: MY FINISHED PIECE(S) OF JEWELLERY.AN ENTRY FEE OF $25 (CHEQUE CAN BE MADE PAYABLE TO RIVE GAUCHE MEDIA.)

I understand the entry rules and regulations and I abide by those terms.

SIGNATURE

SEND ENTRY FORM TO: Excellence in Design, Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON M4W 3B8.

RULES, REGULATIONS AND INFORMATION• Jewellery must have been designed and made in

Canada.

• Jewellery must incorporate precious metals and must

adhere to the criteria set out in each category.

• All gemstones must be natural. Synthetics are

not permitted. Students may substitute CZ for

diamonds.

• One submission per designer, per category.

• Contestant assumes all liability for designs and

jewellery submitted. Although we will take reasonable

precautions while the jewellery is in our possession,

Canadian Jeweller cannot be responsible for

insuring the jewellery. We suggest you extend your

own policy to cover your piece or pieces for loss,

theft or damage for the duration of the competition.

• In each category, three finalists will be selected.

Judges will then choose an overall winner in

each category.

• Finalists selected by the panel judges will be dis-

played at JCK Toronto in the Canadian Jeweller booth

from August 8 – 10, 2010. Delegates will be asked to

vote by ballot on the top design within each category.

Delegate votes and judges’ votes will be combined

and the overall winner in each category will be an-

nounced at the Jeweller’s Ball to be held in Toronto on

November 6th, 2010.

• To enter, submit finished jewellery, an entry form and

a $25 fee for each package.

• Entry deadling is July 2nd, 2010, 5 p.m.

• Entries will be returned by a courier at the expense of

the designer following JCK Toronto and prior to August

31st 2010. To arrange for the return of your entry,

please contact a Canadian jeweller representative at

(416) 203-7900. Finalists in each category will be re-

quired for the Jeweller’s Ball on November 6th, 2010.

• Winning entries and all information provided about

the entries may be used for promotional purposes.

Slides, renderings and other reproductions of the de-

signs, as well as press releases, will also be used for

this purpose.

• Finalists and overall winners will be featured in an

issue of Canadian Jeweller.

Entries will be judged on the basis of originality, cre-

ativity, beauty, wearability and quality of workmanship.

Consideration will also be given to marketability.

ENTER CANADIAN JEWELLER’SEXCELLENCE IN DESIGN COMPETITION

Excellence In Design_NEW_May5:Layout 1 5/7/10 1:18 PM Page 2


Bounce BackA positive outlook at Baselworld 2010 officially ushers in the year of recovery. By Carol Besler

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watchfeature


If the confidence demonstrated by new watch introductions at Baselworld 2010 is any indication, the recession of 2009 is about to become ancient history. Following a difficult year in which most

publicly traded watch companies reported double-digited declines in sales and profits, brands exceeded expectations. While many in the trade expected this year’s offerings to be derivative and down-market, companies surprised buyers with quality, commercial line extensions and new introductions that demonstrated renewed confidence in the luxury market. Sales also exceeded expectations, according to exhibitors, and to cap off the good news, the Federation of the Swiss watch industry (FH) announced during the show that there was a 14.2 per cent rise in exports for the month of February, the second consecutive monthly increase following a bleak year that saw exports to its key market, the U.S., decrease by as much as 50 per cent.

Attendance at the fair was up by seven per cent this year over 2008, and sales increased accordingly, prompting exhibitors to express a sense of relief and optimism: Jacques Duchêne, president of the Exhibitors’ Committee, confirmed: “We are delighted with this year’s Baselworld. Without being euphoric, we can optimistically look ahead this year. The show is and remains the place to meet for the watch and jewellery industry.”

François Thiébaud, president of Tissot Watch and of the Swiss Exhibitors’ Committee, comments: “Exhibitors and visitors can smile again. More than ever before, Basel is indispensable for us.” Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard, was also extremely pleased: “In comparison to last year, this year’s show went much better. We welcomed more customers – especially from the U.S. – and received many more orders.” Françoise Bezzola, vice-president communications for TAG Heuer, commented: “This was an exceptional year. After a tense period, we experienced a festive and optimistic atmosphere at the show. Everyone looks much more relaxed again here in Basel.”

Watch Sales 2009Despite the following negative reports from public companies in the watch industry, most sales for the first quarter of 2010 are positive. LVMH, for example, reports a 34% sales increase for its watch and jewellery division for the first quarter. • Swatch down 8%• LVMH down 1% overall, but in watch division, -13%• Bulgari down 13.8%; watches 24.5% (in own boutiques: +20.2%)• Movado down 17.9%• Gucci down 8.1%• Fossil down 2.2%

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watchfeature


HeritageSeveral brands introduced vintage pieces this year to emphasize their heritage as watchmakers by paying tribute to designs either from brand archives or contemporary brands with a vintage feel. Blancpain introduced a vintage 1960s Fi� y Fathoms, the brand’s quintessential diver’s watch; Bell & Ross presented the BR01 Heritage, an homage to the brand’s military inspired roots; Concord added a vintage look to what for the brand is a very recent collection, introducing the C1 Vintage, with a trowalized or barrel � nish, that creates a worn look on the blue PVD case, and a leather strap that has been deliberately worked. TAG Heuer is making a limited-edition vintage Monaco, the watch made famous by Steve McQueen in the � lm “Le Mans,” and noted as the � rst automatic chronograph movement with micro-rotor. Tissot’s Visodate 1957, marks the � rm’s introductions of that era, a milestone of which was the integration of a date display into the automatic mechanism.

SportsThe sport/dress watch is still the mainstay of the industry, with several new models introduced. Chronotech Active introduced the CT7112M/06M, a steel chronograph with spring-loaded buttons, unidirectional bezel and luminous indexes, the signature elements of a true sports watch. � e watch is made by Global Watch Industries and newly distributed in Canada by Blue Point Jewellery. Casio introduced an entire new “Faces of Time” collection, including � e Edi� ce, a 1/1000-second stopwatch that displays time elapsed using a combination of the second hand and motorized disk-shaped indicators. An indicator at 9 o’clock moves forwards and backwards, alternating between 1/1000th and 1/100th of a second. � e G-Shock Gravity De� er is shock resistant, water resistant, low-temperature resistant, vibration resistant and electricity resistant. At the higher end, Blancpain added a Complete Calendar Moonphase Flyback Chronograph to its Fi� y Fathoms Collection, distinguished by patented under-lug correctors that eliminate the need for adjusters on the case side – a feature Blancpain will incorporate into other collections going forward.

The new Chronotech, with spring-loaded buttons, distributed by Blue Point Fine Imported Jewellery.

The Casio Ediface, a 1/1000-second stopwatch with elapsed time display.

The Concord C1 Vintage, with distressed case and strap.

Above: The Classic Perpetual Calendar from the TX 310 Series.Left: Tissot’s Visodate 1957 marks the brand’s introductions of that era.

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Jewellery WatchesGemsetting, the epitome of watchmaking’s metiers d’art was on full display at Baselworld 2010. Dior watches presented Christal Haute Couture, a collection of eight “passages” a term borrowed from the couture fashion world meaning individual out� ts. � e collection was designed by John Galliano, inspired by his Fall 2009 couture collection for Christian Dior, and consists of one-of-a-kind watches each set with a di� erent gemstone color. � ree have been produced so far, set with iolite, mandarin orange garnet and tsavorite garnet. Among the Pièces d’Exception o� ered by Hermès was the Cape Cod Tonneau with 1,100 full-cut “snow-set” diamonds, for a total of 7.6 carats. Harry Winston, with the advantage of being owned by Aber, a (Canadian) diamond company, presented several jewelled pieces, including the spectacular Cluster of Time, a pendant watch set with 57 carats of round, pear and marquise shaped diamonds. � e Omega Constellation Baguette was another favorite, set with over 30 carats of baguette and trapeze cut diamonds and containing a Co-Axial calibre 8421 movement. Chopard’s Caroline Scheufele, in celebration of the company’s 150th anniversary, designed a series of more than 150 pieces of jewellery and a trio of watches, each with an animal motif. � e watches depict a three-dimensional, diamond penguin, monkey and polar bear over a mother-of-pearl marquetry dial. Jaquet Droz weighs in with the spectacular Heure Celeste, set with blue pink and orange sapphires and tsavorite garnet.

MovementsTAG Heuer introduced the Grand Carrera Pendulum Concept, the � rst-ever mechanical movement without a hairspring. � e traditional hairspring is replaced by an invisible or virtual spring derived from magnets. Chopard, to celebrate its 150th anniversary, introduced four new calibres: the L.U.C EHG, a chronometer-certi� ed hand-wound movement; the L.U.C 4TQE, an equation of time/tourbillon/perpetual calendar; the L.U.C 1TRM Engine One Tourbillon; and the L.U.C 1.010 1937, an automatic with a 60-hour power reserve. Patek Philippe unveiled three new chronographs this year, including the new Chronograph Ref. 5170J, in a 1940s-style Calatrava case; the new 29-535 PS caliber with a classic column wheel and a horizontal clutch, actually launched last November in the Ladies First Chronograph (following � ve years of development); and the Ref. 5950A, a split-seconds monopousoir, caliber CHR27-525, the world’s thinnest split-seconds chronograph movement with column-wheel control, at just 5.25mm. Bulgari introduced a new in-house calibre, the BVL168 self-winding movement with instant-jump central date and 42-hour power reserve, cased in the Sotirio Bulgari line. � e Glashutte Senator Diary 100-13 is a new automatic calibre with a diary module that works like an alarm to notify the wearer of appointments up to 30 days in advance. Breguet celebrates the 50th anniversary of its Type XX line with new � yback chronograph with GMT. � e calibre 589F movement has a high-frequency silicon escapment (72,000 BPH), with a 45-hour power reserve. In the quartz arena, Seiko launched the Quartz Astron calibre 9F62, in homage to its original 1969 model, the � rst watch in the world to use quartz technology. Upgraded technology allows for a 1/2,000 of a second date change, and a second hand that aligns itself exactly to each second marker, a feature that is not possible in a conventional quartz watch.

Passage 1 from the Dior Christal Haute Couture collection, set with 11 carats of iolite and 0.84tcw in diamonds. The movement is a Zenith Elite automatic.

The Cape Cod Tonneau, from Hermès, with 1,100 full-cut diamonds that are snow set – paved with randomly sized gems.

The Seiko Quartz Astron calibre 9F62.

The new Sotirio Bulgari with the BVL168 self-winding calibre.

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watchfeature

w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 0 CJ 63

LadiesSeveral new ladies’ lines were introduced this year, which will help to � ll showcase space vacated by Cartier, which trimmed its distribution by 150 points of sale earlier this year. Bedat introduced two new models in its #2 and #8 collections, both with interesting crowns that are integrated into the case. Both are available in haute joaillerie versions. David Yurman’s new Ladies Classic collection was introduced to much fanfare. It is the � rst round watch designed by the brand, whose signature shape has been the cushion. � e watch is available in steel or 18k gold in two sizes – 30mm and 38mm – with a variety of dial options. Raymond Weil’s Freelancer Black 8 for ladies depicts the lucky number on the dial, set with diamonds, containing an automatic movement. Gucci intoduced a new ladies’ collection, the U-Play, in which it resurrects its famous interchangeable bezel and strap concept. Bulgari resurrected its Serpenti line from the ’60s, a serpent-motif bracelet watch that wraps around the wrist in a tubogas bracelet style. � e new models are available in steel, red gold and a high jewellery version.

Classic Three-Hand� e vintage trend was also manifested in a return to simple three-hand models with centre hours and minutes and small-seconds subdials. Revue � ommen introduced a model that pays tribute to its mythical Square watch, originally launched in 1953. Chronoswiss launched a Sirius with a calibre C.111 hand-wound movement based on the historical design of a similar movement from the 1950s. � e Atlantic Worldmaster 1888 pays tribute to the brand’s innovations in watchmaking since that date. Frederique Constant offered the Maxime Manufacture Lady, an elegant interpretation of the classic three-hand style with a FC-700 calibre movement.

The Revue Thommen mythical Square three-hand watch.

Gucci’s new U-Play, with interchangeable bezel and strap concept.

The Freelancer Black 8 from Raymond Weil.

The new Chronoswiss Sirius with calibre C.111.

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watchfeature


RepeatersThis was the year of the minute repeater. As the highest representation of haute horlogerie, all new introductions are in-house movements, with decorated and finished components, and all will be produced in very limited numbers. Blancpain introduced a new grand complication, Carrousel Répétition Minutes Le Brassus, with the world’s first carrousel powered cathedral gong minute repeater movement. The Grande Seconde Minute Repeater from Jaquet Droz is distinctive in that the gong is visible on the dial at the inner bezel where it strikes the case, and is engraved with a tiny music note. Breguet introduced Reine de Naples Grande Complication Automatic, a repeater for ladies, with a diamond indicator in a window on the mother-of-pearl dial to indicate the strike is in the “on” position. The piece is a high jewellery watch, set with over three carats of diamonds. Milus has extended its TriRetrograde calibre to incorporate a repeater function in the Tirion Répétition Minutes TriRetrograde. Fifty pieces will be made, in red gold. Finally, Corum taps its roots as an haute horlogerie brand by introducing a repeater in celebration of the 35th anniversary of the Admiral’s Cup line. The Admiral’s Cup Minute Repeater Tourbillon 45 is accommpanied by a tourbillon.

The World Watch and Jewellery Show, BaselWorld 2011, will take place in Basel from March 24 to 31, 2011.

ColoursGrey and blue were the hot new dial and strap colours this year, in keeping with Fall 2010 runway fashion collections.

Grey:• Modern Vintage watch from Guess,

with a textured dial and leather strap. • The Ulysse Nardin Executive Dual Time in steel

and ceramic.

Blue:• The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Flyback

Chronograph. • The Hermès Cape Cod Quadrige, with cloisonné

enameling in the pattern of the Quadrige silk Hermès tie. [CJ]

Carrousel Repetition Minutes Le Brassus, a repeater from Blancpain.

Breguet’s Reine de Naples Grande Complication Automatic,a repeater for ladies.

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techfeature

SaaS is computer software, hardware and support rolled into one. Software is developed for a specific business sector and is accessed and used over the Internet. Rather than purchasing expensive,

custom-designed software – and the hardware to run it – customers pay only for the service they consume. The SaaS provider fulfills ongoing maintenance functions of data backup and storage as well as software and system upgrades. Essentially, the user simply plugs in.

What this means for the jewellery retailer is access to state-of-the-art retail management software from any Internet-connected computer at a fraction of the cost of other software options. Traditional retail management software requires expensive hardware, software, IT support and complex and costly upgrade cycles. SaaS includes it all and is available on a pay-as-you-go basis on demand, typically on a monthly fee arrangement.

Over the past year, this column has focused on how the jewellery retailer can use technology to more effectively manage his business and improve the bottom line. We have reviewed point-of-sale systems, client relationship management, inventory-control, targeted marketing and reporting. There is no question that the retailer must invest in technology to increase efficiencies and stay competitive. But it can be a full-time job to stay on top of the latest trends and developments, to source the best hardware and software solutions and then to install and manage them.

The SaaS-solution is like having your own IT department. Users have access to world-class computing infrastructure and all that it offers: comprehensive data security, privacy protection and reliability, all of which provide peace of mind to small business owners. For example, rather than investing in server hardware for data backup and storage, the SaaS provider includes this as part of the service. SaaS automatically takes care of the tedious and time-consuming tasks of routine data back-up to protect client information.

SaaS also provides access to full-featured software that would otherwise be cost-prohibitive. Because SaaS is developed for an industry rather than an individual retailer, users share in cost savings. There are additional savings through the elimination of software-purchase, upgrade costs and support contracts. SaaS includes the business and database software as part of its monthly subscription fee. The user simply requires Internet connection and a Web browser, such as Internet Explorer, Firefox or Safari. All users have access to the latest version of the software because updates, upgrades and enhancements are available automatically. Software support is included as part of the monthly subscription fee, eliminating the need for expensive yearly support contracts and IT consultants.

Accessibility is another advantage of Saas. It is available from anywhere that has an Internet connection. Your data is still your data. You can back it up from the service at any time and store it within your store in Excel spreadsheets or other popular formats.

Small businesses face greater challenges today than they have in the past several decades. To compete effectively against larger and better-equipped competitors, they need to reduce operating costs and better service their existing clientele. One way to do so is by leveraging the latest advances in computer technology.

Software-as-a-Service levels the playing field for small businesses in their endeavor to compete against large, chain-based retailers. SaaS offers first-rate jewellery-store-management software hosted on a world-class computing infrastructure. With no on-site software management or monthly subscription fees, small businesses can significantly reduce operating costs, and realize the many benefits of today’s technology. The result is a higher degree of operational efficiency and improved bottom-line results.

SaaS lets you spend more time managing your core business. Software-as-a-Service for the Small and Medium-sized Enterprise. SaaS-SME. [CJ]

SaaS-SME. In the world of acronyms, these two are uniquely suited to working together – Software-as-a-Service (SaaS) for the small and medium-sized enterprise (SME).

By AmBer KlAehn

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RADO r5.5 Watch, designed by Jasper Morrison, High Tech Ceramic Bracelet, sapphire crystal, skeleton red counter hands, $3,200.


productfocus


Not so long ago, a wristwatch was simply a timepiece. Now, since people tell time with laptops, phones, even keychains, the watch has taken on new roles: wearable art, accessory, status symbol

and fashion statement. The fashion watch, in this context, has become an important segment of the industry.

“Everyone has a Blackberry or an iPhone; technology has replaced the need to carry a watch to tell time,” says Taryn Doobay, national brand manager for Rado watches in Canada, “but it hasn’t eliminated people’s desire to express themselves by putting something on their wrists.”

Mark Friedman, brand manager for Alliance Watch Group, takes the common view that a fashion watch is “any watch brand that is not just a company that makes watches.” For example, he names Kenneth Cole, Dolce & Gabbana and Christian Autiger, designer of the Ed Hardy line, among the fashion watch lines that Alliance Watch Group works with. “If you look at their watches, you see that they really replicate their clothing brands,” he says. “The D&G [watches] are flashy and chic,

whereas Kenneth Cole signifies more of a men’s brand with the suit and tie.”

However, Doobay points out, “over the past five years, the watch industry overall has been paying more attention to the design world in terms of colours, materials and overall aesthetic as they relate to apparel trends. Watches are becoming more and more a personal purchase that makes a statement about who you are. Most watches are more or less tied to fashion.”

Although fashion watches are priced under $1,000, with most in the $200-$700 range, the term is not strictly defined by price point, says Steve Levy, CEO of Ottimo Creations. “We started Ottimo to distribute Fendi watches; I guess you would say that Fendi is a fashion brand,” he says. “But fashion could go to any price. Fendi just came out with a new watch that changes the colour of the stones: diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and so on, so if your dress goes with sapphires, you turn the crown and the 12 numbers show up as sapphires.”

A Timely TrendDoes the fashion watch belong in your window?

By Sarah B. hood



Levy also distinguishes a separate category, the lifestyle watch, a name he uses to describe Ottimo’s TW Steel brand. “It’s not a fashion watch in that it’s not something you would wear to match your clothing,” he says. Instead, the brand (priced from $250 to $1,000) is aligned with a contemporary masculine lifestyle. There are promotional tie-ins with basketball, hockey and football; TW Steel is also the official timing partner of the Renault F1 team.

Stephen Taylor, president of Bulova Canada, sees fashion watches from a somewhat different point of view: “the perspective is that fashion is not so much a product category as a consumer segment,” he says. Based on the company’s own research, which is shared with customers, Taylor identifies 10 specific segments of buyers of watches over $150, of which one is defined as being “specifically interested in a watch purchase as a fashion accessory.”

In this segment of the market, buyers typically “view the watch as a fashion accessory rather than as an extension of their personalities,” he says. The group spans all ages, but it is 85 per cent female. They will buy watches on impulse and wear a different watch for different occasions. “Because they do, they will own many watches, and the price point tends to be less,” Taylor adds. “Diamonds tend to comprise a smaller portion of the watches; crystals make up a bigger portion of the category, and the majority of these watches are non-Swiss made.”

Since the fashion watch customer will typically buy more than one watch, “it’s probably getting to where they are going to have a watch wardrobe,” says Doobay. “In Europe, that’s certainly the case, and I think we’re moving towards that in North America.”

“Somebody who’s not in the watch business may ask: how much volume can you do?” says Friedman. “The truth is, when it comes to fashion items, every year there’s something new.”

Taylor cautions that “we’ve got to be really careful not to define fashion watches as strictly inexpensive watches, but on balance these are going to tend to be less expensive watches. The other thing to bear in mind is that this category represents less than 10 per cent of total watch spending. More purchases are going to be made in a fashion environment as opposed to a jewellery store. Depending what segment you’re in, I wouldn’t suggest that more than 10 per cent of total space be given over to the fashion category.”

The strength of this categoryis evidenced by the success of the Edmonton-based company Watch It! Launched in November 1999 by entrepreneur Darren Bondar, Watch It! carries a wide range of brands – not exclusively fashion watches. The company now has 21 outlets across the country, of which 15 are franchises. “Our primary customers are in the 18-to-25-year-old demographic,” says Bondar.

“we’ve got to be really careful not to define

fashion watches as strictly inexpensive watches,

but on balance these are going to tend to be less

expensive watches.”

productfocus

TW Steel CEO Collection. 50mm rose gold plated case with black dial and black leather strap, $795.



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productfocus

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Butterfly Gem Collectiont: 418.660.2909w: www.bfly.ca

Ottimo Creationst: 514.332.0301w: www.ottimocreations.com

But does the fashion watch belong in a jewellery store? Bondar thinks not. “Do you want a $150 fashion watch in a store that is also selling diamonds? It doesn’t necessarily mix,” he says.

However, Friedman points out that the same customer who buys expensive jewellery might also be interested in designer-name watches at lower price points if they match her look: “a lot of the customers don’t necessarily want a high quality watch, but something that looks very nice. A lot of the jewellery stores are not selling the high-end watch, but are selling the $200 to $600 watches,” he says. “The key with the fashion names is that the customers like to look for the names they’re familiar with. And these customers want to buy things for their friends, gifts for their children; they don’t always want to buy a $3,000 gift.”

A line like Rado, which is the $3,000 to $6,000 segment within the Swatch group, caters to the desire for style, but at a higher price point than the standard fashion watch. “We typically are surrounded in showcases by the traditional watch – TAG Heuer, Cartier, Baume & Mercier – but we tend to have more success when we’re grouped with Dior and Chanel, which are in the $5,000 range,” says Doobay. She observes that lines like Michael Kors, in the under-$1,000 category, do well in the same environment. Bulova Canada offers a variety of lines that can be defined as fashion watches. “Caravel, which is our lowest priced brand, fits in that $99 to $250 price range,” says Bulova’s vice-president of sales, Jay Cameron. “Some of the Caravel creep up to the $200 price point with diamonds.”

“Importantly, 25 per cent of what we put into the Caravel category is specifically targeted to this fashion consumer,” says Bulova president Stephen Taylor.

The Bulova brand, at $150 to $750, targets “a more sophisticated consumer,” says Cameron. “These people are looking for something traditional, but fashionable enough that it stands out across the table.” At $125 to $400, the Harley Davidson brand appeals to the well heeled man. “These are pretty affluent, well-educated consumers,” he says. “If men are looking at a fashion brand, this is one that really fits.”

Bulova is also launching a new collection this summer called Adventurer, which targets the younger consumer, in the $250 to $450 range. “I wouldn’t say they would fall into the traditional definition of fashion watch, but they would appeal to the demographic because of the price point,” says Cameron.

Should fine jewellery stores carry fashion watches? “It comes down to how comfortable an owner feels in being able to carry a line,” concludes Doobay.

(top left) Ladies Automatic, BVA-Series 130, 44 Diamonds, $850; (top right) Ladies Automatic, BVA-Series 140, 44 Diamonds, $895; (bottom) Ladies Automatic, BVA-Series 135, Skeleton Dial with 24 Diamonds, $750. All Bulova.

Stullert: 337.262.7700w: www.stuller.com


DESIGNED TO INTRIGUE

Style: 96B137$350 msrp

The Adventurer Collection targets a younger consumerwho demands design and style at a lower price point.Aimed at a global audience, the Swiss-designed Adventurer Collection is priced between $250 and $450and consists of 8 men’s and 6 ladies’ styles, eachreflecting the adventurous spirit and heritage of theBulova brand. Available July 2010.

DESIGNED TO BE NOTICED

Since1875

www.bulova.com


cjJunJul10_FCD_Bulova_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 4:43:11 PM


BFLY does several things well when it comes marketing; among them, the company sticks with what it knows: a de� ned market demographic and the patented butter� y cut specialization they

developed.

President Stephane Lavoie has an educational background in physical chemistry and marketing and many of his family members are in the jewellery business. Alongside his uncle, Guy Couture (custom jeweller for the family’s retail outlet) the extended family owns and operates two jewellery stores in the heart of Quebec City. Couture is the man who brought the revolutionary butter� y cut to their business in 2000. As retail customers provided continued positive feedback, the popularity of the cut grew, and Lavoie, his cousin and Couture developed an entire line based on it with a speci� c demographic in mind. � e original butter� y cut stone ranged from $300 to more than $1,000 because they all had to be hand-cut, but the team found that if they were able to mass produce the butter� y cut, the associated costs would inevitably go down.

By September 2005, the team founded B� y, which started out with birthstone-related jewellery and has grown to include necklaces, earrings and rings that target girls in two age groups: zero-to-� ve and � ve-to-twelve. � e butter� y is a perfect symbol for young girls because it stands for life, growth and transformation. � e concept has become widely popular, as expected, among the younger set, and as gi� items for special occasions.

Diamonds may be a girl’s best friend, but birthstones, the focus of the Butterfl y Gem Collection, and their Bfl y brand, are slowly leading the pack.

BY STEPHANIE BONOTTO

Stephane Lavoie

Flying High

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companyprofile


Bfly manages more than 800 accounts across Canada, and is currently concentrating on expanding into a worldwide business, including the European market that began operation in April with plans to reach Asia soon in the works. In addition, there are more than 200 customers already established in the U.S. To reach market demand, the company has 20 sales representatives that travel throughout the continent visiting retail stories for that added sales service element. Lavoie is confident that there is a huge potential for Bfly to grow and expand. In fact, it recently inked a deal with Inverness Corporation, a leading ear piercing company based in Massachusetts. Inverness will be launching the Bfly line of butterfly cut gems for its earrings in several different countries, including the U.S. This move opens up opportunities for Bfly to expand beyond its existing distributors. Blfy is now the exclusive distributor of Inverness for the jewellery industry in Canada and the U.S., carrying both the new Bfly ear piercing collection and other Inverness products. The strategy behind the Bfly ear piercing program is quite clever and simple. It is not only the fact that the majority of young girls will have their ears pierced, but also that the jewellers who offer this service with the Bfly concept will sell much more of the other Bfly products as well.

The whole Couture-Lavoie family is involved in the operations of the two retail stores and is also actively involved in Bfly. This not only includes jewellery and sales departments, but those in key roles such as accounting and financing. Lavoie believes part of the success of their business is based on the fact that it is a private, family-operated company: “we want to keep it owned by our family. The family aspect is very important to us.”

As with everything, they anticipate it will have its advantages and disadvantages. Having grown up in and around the jewellery business, Lavoie believes he was that much more prepared to take on the industry himself. He knew from an early age that he wanted to work in the jewellery business because it was something he was passionate about and already familiar with.

Bfly’s two lines are slightly different in terms of the types of product. The kids’ line was started in February 2007 and consists of pendants, earrings and rings using the birthstone concept. One of Bfly’s main objectives is to use birthstones throughout the line. In 2008, it added huggies and bracelet collections, and, in 2009, the brand launched a line of watches (one colour per month) and silver accessories for the girls’ line. The dial of the watch contains the signature butterfly with four small birthstones on the wings. The girls’ line also consists of small charms that can be attached to the watch, again following the birthstone theme. In addition to the watches and charms, the Bfly line for girls offers birthstone earrings that can be purchased in silver or white gold.

Pink acrylic BFLY display for the kids collection is only one of the artful displays used for the BFLY retailer’s marketing strategy.

BFLY silver earrings with rhodium plated featuring the exclusive and patented Inverness safety backs. Part of the new BFLY silver collection.

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Lavoie will introduce a silver collection for the kids’ line at this year’s JCK Las Vegas show in June. The reason for the launch is simple: a high demand for low-cost items. The line currently consists of 10k gold, as well as 14k and 18k yellow and white gold pieces. Success in the jewellery industry can be hard to come by, mostly because there is so much competition. Lavoie believes the key to his company’s success is the focus on his unique cut. “Our success started with the stone, but the business became about developing the concept of the Bfly brand. The collection comes from something that is easy to sell to customers because it is recreational and affordable.” The company made sure all of the promotion was aimed at building the Bfly brand. They developed all of the displays, catalogs and advertising in a way that would make Bfly the focus of their work.

Bfly’s goal is to target independent and small chain stores the old fashioned way. And although many businesses are adapting to the advancements in technology and offer their products directly to customers via online purchases, Lavoie has no intention of doing this in the short term. While he understands that many businesses thrive on online sales, he prefers the more personal approach of selling to independent retailers so his product line will appear in their stores.

To ensure that Bfly is always adapting to changes, Lavoie has begun to branch out from just jewellery. Currently, he is developing sunglasses with small stones on the side (in keeping with the birthstone theme), as well as hair accessories and even clothing. The idea behind the new developments is the same as it’s always been: going back to nature, butterflies and change. Lavoie has plans to make the brand a leading company with a complete collection of products for young girls. He believes that launching a clothing and accessory line will also help to increase demand for the jewellery and watches and he is careful to note that most companies start with accessories and clothing before making their way to jewellery. Doing the reverse likely works to Bfly’s benefit because they already have an established consumer base, and turning their attention to fashion and accessories is a seamless step.

The ultimate goal? Making the brand a household name. “We want everybody to know that when you talk about kids’ jewellery, it’s Bfly. And while we would consider doing a teen or adult line, right now the focus is on kids. There are a lot of interesting things to come. Our plan is to launch one or two new collections every year.” [CJ]

“We want everybody to know that when you talk about kids’ jewellery, it’s Bfly… There are a lot

of interesting things to come. Our plan is to launch one or two new collections every year.”

companyprofile

BFLY birthstone Girls watch is an ideal gift for ages five and over. Stainless steel back, water resistant, genuine leather straps.

Regular Inverness ear piercing product featuring the pink flowers.

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Lights, Camera, Action, Jewellery!In today’s competitive sales environment, many jewellers are finding that CAD/CAM technology, in addition to redefining the custom-design process, can become a highly effective sales and marketing tool.

By Jesse Kaufman

Photo-realistic rendering programs such as V-Ray, Maxwell and Brazil plug in to jewellery CAD applications to create digital images, allowing jewellery designs to be presented to prospective

customers without having to invest in costly new inventory or expensive photography.

The artisan can assign metals such as silver, gold or platinum, as well as diamonds and gemstones to the CAD model. Natural lighting, soft shadows, depth of field, reflection, refraction and dispersion are mathematically calculated by the software and applied to the rendering scene.

William Elkins, president of Niche Jewelry Inc., Olathe, KS, started out using ArtCAM Jewelsmith, a program that focuses on design and production rather than photo-realistic rendering. He found he constantly had to explain that the renderings from ArtCAM were meant to be basic visual representations of the design and not how the finished piece would look.

designfeature

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So he added Matrix to his CAD toolbox, which included a version of V-ray customized for jewellery rendering.

“I like the fact that I can show a customer a design without putting the money into making it,” says Elkins. “I think you can take a digital library too far, but I for one love the fact that I don’t have to spend a fortune in finished goods. For the record, I like a good jewellery pamphlet and catalog as well. The only people who think you are going cheap with a digital library are the ones who are doing CAD/CAM already. Customers see the wow factor. And having done designs for clients with both ArtCAM, and now Matrix, I get comments like, ‘Wow, technology has come a long way since the last time we had a ring made,’ and ‘I wish the last model you did for us looked like this, I would have been much more willing to add the band or order the matching earrings.’ I used to worry about setting the bar too high in terms of expectations, but my experience in the last year has been the opposite. More people have told me that the ring looks even better than the computer model than they did when I was using ArtCAM, and my clients have been overwhelmingly more excited about the design process.”

Jewellers who don’t like CAD renderings remind me of the people who used to say, ‘why do I need a laser? I can just pull the stones and solder it like I have been doing for years.’ I agree with them; you certainly don’t need a laser, nor do you need photo-realistic rendering, but both are excellent tools.”

Bert Edmonston IV, of Gold Thumb Jewelry Creations in Frederick, MD, is also a fan of realistic renderings. “I’m not working with people from the trade, where you do what’s asked and nothing more,” he says. “Retail requires you go above and beyond. A great photo-realistic rendering

usually seals the deal. I keep an album of renderings on the counter. Most people pick it up and say ‘Wow these are great photos.’ Then I explain what they are. I’ve sold custom to more people who would have never considered it before, but after seeing renderings, get really excited and commissioned a piece.”

Rebecca Walker of Walker Ventures Inc., West Chester, OH, recently started using Maxwell to show her designs. She explains her reasoning: “Jane Q. Public, who knows nothing of renders, thinks they are just great photos, and it creates a must-have feeling for that really cool ring. Sort of like having the print catalog of a new car, showing great photos of the details, making you want it that much more. The one on the lot doesn’t look as shiny and perfect, but the print ad has done it’s job. The customer is physically present and ready to buy.”

Cary James of Contact, located in Gravenhurst, ON, is also a strong proponent of Maxwell Render. As a jeweller with some photography experience, he found the workflow in Maxwell to be rather intuitive.

“Once I discovered Maxwell Render I never looked back,” he says. “Learning and working with Maxwell Render is intuitive because it is rooted in a solid foundation that parallels the real world. It is great, for example, to be able to set the camera lens length, f-stop, ISO and shutter speed as one would on a photographic camera. It is instinctive to use principles of physics intrinsic to gemmology to create new gem materials that react with light just as they do in the real world, simply by using a gemstone’s refractive index and dispersion. It is brilliant to be able to apply metalsmithing principles to alloy different metal materials to simulate different karats and colours of gold and other precious metals.


w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 0 CJ 79For details, write #135 on Free Info Page, page 97

“I use Maxwell Render as an integral part of my consultation and design process, both for clients close to home and clients who live thousands of kilometres away. Maxwell Render has enhanced efficiency and effectiveness in my design and consultation process. As an example, having high-quality rendered virtual prototypes has eliminated the need for clients to view physical prototypes prior to the finished product. This eliminates an arduous and costly step in the process of custom product and jewellery design, including product cost and time-to-completion cost. It also eliminates any risk to physical prototypes in the shipping and handling process.”

While James acknowledges that the learning curve can appear steep and daunting, he believes the benefits far exceed the effort. “With the combination of resources available it is not only possible to achieve great results, it is almost a given. The photographic, real-world quality that is achievable is superb. My experience has been extremely positive and even slightly addictive. I am filled with anticipation every time I press Render.”

As rendering programs continue to evolve and become easier and faster to use, more and more jewellers are entering the digital age to offer renderings as a sales, marketing and perhaps more importantly, a communication tool. It allows them to connect with their customers in a personal way that was not possible before, thereby significantly increasing their custom design business.

As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words, and when the image is a stunningly beautiful photo-realistic CAD jewellery design, it speaks volumes! [CJ]

designfeature


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cjJuneJuly10_Noble_dpsAd.indd 4 5/5/10 4:15:22 PM


T he story of Dandi Maestre begins on the shores of Colombia where as a little girl, she learned to love and respect nature on her family’s cattle farms. Vacations were spent exploring the Sierra

Nevada de Santa Marta mountains and its hidden shores and rivers. “I remember my father bringing home a huge tree trunk from a fallen tree on our farm and a beautiful dining table was made out of it – this was 35 years ago,” says Maestre. The graduate of New York’s prestigious School of Visual Arts now makes her home in Toronto with her husband and two children, borrowing many of her childhood influences and incorporating them into works of art in her jewellery designs. Taking

nature as her inspiration, Dandi still explores but now it’s the organic shapes and elements found in nature, such as driftwood, coconuts, bull horns, natural fibres, seeds, bone and rough emeralds. She says that through her work, she has created a dialogue with the natural world. Her designs reveal a strong mix of native and urban cultures. Ultimately, Maestre aims to elevate organic elements and bring them to a new level of sophistication in what she describes as “the Japanese design philosophy called wabi-sabi, which nurtures all that is authentic by acknowledging three simple realities: nothing lasts, nothing is finished and nothing is perfect.”

Changing horn necklace: Long open circles necklace. $750

In TuneCanadian Designer Dandi Maestre takes nature as inspiration.By Bonnie Siegler

078-080.CJ_Designer_re.indd 82 5/7/10 10:36:56 AM

Canadian Jeweller (CJ): Describe some of your first designs?

Dandi Maestre (DM): I began exploring the use of reclaimed bull horns and I made small necklaces with cut horn disks. As the pieces evolved, they became really bold, and I just kept adding on larger scale pieces and intermixing with other natural materials such as shells, antler, wood and amber.

CJ: You create jewellery that reflects your passion for organic elements. How has this passion developed, and why is it important to you?

DM: I have been naturally drawn to organic materials. I was surrounded by horns on my family’s cattle ranch, and my family also collected art, so I grew up surrounded by beautiful, everyday pieces and lots of natural crafts. I began designing for myself because I could not find jewellery I felt comfortable wearing. I am continually experimenting with new materials and using what nature has to offer in its raw form and creating my own compositions through design. Design is what is important, though.

CJ: What specific elements of nature do you incorporate into your designs?

DM: Most of them have natural horn as a rotating element, to which I add a variety of sustainable elements. It can be simple shells, tagua nuts, driftwood, shed antler, bone, exotic seeds, even recycled beads made of paper.

CJ: How do you hope your jewellery will create a dialogue between people and those who appreciate sustainable living and the natural world?DM: I think that people who admire nature and have a love for being in contact with what the Earth has to offer are drawn to wearing my pieces. There is a special energy emanating from each individual. And there is also an energy in everything natural. So it’s like a magnet effect when clients find the pieces meant for them.

CJ: How do you bring colour such as the rough emeralds into your pieces?

DM: Recently, I have begun admiring stones, such as emerald, turquoise, pearl and jade. I like when they are a little irregular, and somehow they all blend in with the other materials, the common bond being nature again. Driftwood is very beach-y and lightweight so it’s fun to use for a simple necklace or just a large shaped piece on a key ring. I love rich colours in shells and stones. I also use natural dyes, most recently for my tagua nut rings, which come in every tone of the rainbow. When creating the jade necklaces this spring, I was inspired by the vibrant colours of tropical fruit. It all depends on what I see.

CJ: I understand you love to travel. Where have you been and how have your designs – and you personally – been influenced by your travels?

DM: Traveling is a form of visual education. You never know what you will see and how it will inspire and that is what’s exciting. Last summer I was in Panama and just walking along the beach, seeing the locals embrace what they have so beautifully – that’s what I love. The way they are carefree when mixing all colours. Nothing is too planned but it all just flows when all worn together. I feel all my pieces can be worn together too.


Ltd.


designerprofile



designerprofile

CJ: What metals do you work with mainly?

DM: I use silver mostly. I have yet to play with more metals. We’ll see.

CJ: How have your designs mixed native and urban cultures?

DM: I don’t make a conscious decision to mix them. It’s a way of looking at things. I like a certain modern design, probably this comes from my graphic design background. I also like my pieces to be versatile in the way pieces can be worn, so they will adapt and change depending on who is wearing them. So perhaps the design is more urban, but the materials are inspired by what different cultures have used for centuries.

CJ: Your designs have been featured in various fashion magazines. What celebrities have worn your designs?

DM: Most recently, Vanessa Williams was photographed wearing a bold ring made from bone. It was featured in Oprah Magazine, celebrating women of style. She looked beautiful!

CJ: Do you see an emphasis on any certain design that calls out “fashion trend” for this year?

DM: Fashion is very unpredictable; it changes too fast, so I don’t pay too much attention. I just do what I love. It turns out that this year there is a lot of talk about tribal influences, strong statement necklaces, the return of natural elements. So it’s good timing for me.

CJ: What are you working on for your next collection?

DM: I am enjoying working with pearls right now. Tomorrow, I might try metal. I don’t know. I don’t plan too much; it just kind of happens. Every day is something new and fun that way

CJ: Which brings us to the wabi-sabi philosophy of your creativity. So which designs are not perfect, which are unfinished and which would you wish could last forever?

DM: All of them! Imperfection is intentional. I design art pieces, each unique and each with a special energy.

“Imperfection is intentional. I design art pieces, each unique and

each with a special energy.”

Magical Charms: Various organic materials (horn, seeds, antler) charms on leather. $350


J u n e 3 – 6 , 2 011 • M a n d a l ay B ay H o t e l a n d C o n v e n t i o n C e n t e r

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cjJuneJuly10_ReedEx_Ad.indd 1 5/10/10 9:28:35 AM

starwatch

Sky’s The LimitThe slow economy has no bearing when it comes to celebrities and their designer jewellery. Choices run the gamut from platinum and

gold to pearls and onyx to glittering diamonds.BY BONNIE SIEGLER

their designer jewellery. Choices run the gamut from platinum and gold to pearls and onyx to glittering diamonds.

� e Book of Eli co-star Mila Kunis selected a pair of Neil Lane platinum, black onyx and diamond earrings, with

4 carats in each ear (US$22,000), and a matching platinum bracelet with diamonds and onyx for the Los Angeles premiere.

� e combination of platinum, diamonds and onyx complimented her long, brunette hair and beautiful complexion.

Taylor Swi� is making the rounds as both Hollywood and Country’s “It” girl. At the recent Country Music Awards this month she was decked out in Neil Lane jewels – a 25 carat diamond and platinum bracelet (US$150,000) and to-die for diamond and platinum drop earrings (US$175,000).

Taylor Swi� is making the rounds as both Hollywood and Country’s “It” girl. At the recent Country Music Awards this month she was decked out in Neil Lane jewels – a 25 carat diamond and platinum bracelet (US$150,000) and to-die for diamond and platinum drop earrings (US$175,000).

� e Book of EliLane platinum, black onyx and diamond earrings, with

4 carats in each ear (US$22,000), and a matching platinum bracelet with diamonds and onyx for the Los Angeles premiere.

� e combination of platinum, diamonds and onyx complimented her long, brunette hair and beautiful complexion.

Debra Messing looked like a true hero at the Hollywood Hero Awards wearing Yvel’s rhodolite and yellow gold ring on her slender � ngers. � e ring retails for US$4,780.

Debra Messing

Mila Kunis86 CJ J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 0 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

Taylor Swift

086.CJ_StarWatch_re.indd 86 5/7/10 9:49:45 AM

22 au 24 août 2010August 22 to 24, 2010Palais des Congrès Montréal Montreal Convention Center

POUR PLUS D’INFORMATION | FOR FURTHER INFORMATION868, rue Brissette, Sainte-Julie (Québec) J3E 2B1Tél. : 514 485-3333 • Fax : 450 649-8984 • [email protected] • www.cbq.qc.ca

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what’son

upcoming eventsEvery effort has been made to publish accurate information but please contact show organizers to confirm.

If you would like dates added, please contact [email protected]

June | internationalLuxury & Premiere by JCK June 1 - 3The Venetian Resort Hotel CasinoLas Vegas, Nevada203-840-5684 or [email protected] invitation only

Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch ShowJune 3 - 6MGM Grand Hotel and CasinoLas Vegas, Nevada239-732-6642andreacanady@dmgworld media.com www.dmgantiquesshows.com

Swiss Watch by JCKJune 3 - 7The Venetian Resort Hotel CasinoLas Vegas, [email protected] appointment only

JCK Las VegasJune 4 - 7Sands Expo Convention Center and The Venetian Resort Hotel CasinoLas Vegas, Nevada203-840-5684 or [email protected]

China International Gold, Jewellery & Gem FairJune 17 - 20Guangzhou Jinhan Exhibition CentreGuangzhou, [email protected]

Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem FairJune 24 - 27Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition CentreHong Kong, China+852 2516 [email protected]

July | internationalJovellaJuLy 6 - 7Convention CenterTel Aviv, Israel+972 562 [email protected]

Malaysia International Jewellery FairJuLy 8 - 11Kuala Lumpur Convention CentreKuala Lumpur, Malaysia+6 03 9058 [email protected]

JA new york Summer ShowJuLy 25 - 28Javits CenterNew York, New [email protected]

august | canadaJCK TorontoAuGuST 8 - 10Metro Toronto Convention CentreToronto, Ontario203-840-5684 or [email protected]

Mode Accessories ShowAuGuST 8 - 10Doubletree International Plaza HotelToronto, Ontario416-510-0114achee@mode-accessories.comwww.mode-accessories.com

CGTA Gift ShowAuGuST 8 - 12International Centre and Toronto Congress CentreMississauga and Toronto, Ontario416-679-0170 or [email protected]

Western Canadian Jewellery expoAuGuST 13 - 15Shaw Convention CentreEdmonton, [email protected]

Alberta Gift ShowAuGuST 15 - 18Edmonton Expo Centre, NorthlandsEdmonton, Alberta416-385-1880 or 1-888-823-7469www.albertagiftshow.com

expo PrestigeAuGuST 22 - 24Palais des CongrèsMontreal, [email protected]

Montreal Gift ShowAuGuST 22 - 25Place BonaventureMontreal, Quebec416-385-1880 or [email protected] media.comwww.montrealgiftshow.com

september | canadaeclat De ModeSePTeMber 3 - 6Paris Porte de VersaillesParis, France33 0 1 47 56 52 [email protected]

International Jewellery LondonSePTeMber 5 - 8Earls Court 2London, England+44 0 20 8271 [email protected]

Mode Accessories Fall II editionSePTeMber 26 - 27International CentreMississauga, Ontario416-510-0114twoplusone@mode-accessories.comwww.mode-accessories.com

october | canada Fraser Valley bead & Jewellery ShowOCTOber 22 - 24Cascades Casino Convention CentreLangley, British [email protected]

088.CJ_WhatsOn.indd 88 5/7/10 9:46:40 AM

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All NORDIC FIRE Diamonds are GIA Certified for accurate grading.

J.W. Histead showcase ad:Layout 1 3/4/09 1:41 PM Page 1

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ETA SWISS, ISA SWISS, RONDA WATCH MOVEMENTS

Here are just a few of our everyday LOW prices on ETA, ISA and RONDA movements:

SERVING JEWELLERS AND WATCHMAKERS ACROSS CANADA FOR 75 YEARS

ETA G10.211 date 4.......... $36.95 each ETA 901.001 .......................... $19.95ETA 901.005 .......................... $15.95 ETA 805.124 ............................ $6.95 ETA 579.005(SUB: 561.001)............ $26.95 ETA F06.11A........................... $14.95 ISA 369 .................................... $6.95ISA K63 .................................... $2.40ISA 8171.202 ........................ $19.95ISA 8171.220.......................... $21.95ISA 1198.32 ............................. $6.75

RONDA 515............................... $6.50RONDA 585............................... $6.75RONDA 751 .............................. $8.95RONDA 751E .......................... $15.95RONDA 763 .............................. $3.50RONDA 1032 .......................... $15.95



Established 1935

MBDB50001CT - 18KVS2-S11

$560Machine

Set

MCDB50201.30CT - 18K

VS2-S11$675

MachineSet

MCDB50803CT - 14KVS2-S11

$1350

MBDB50151.40CT - 18K

VS2-S11$750LCDB5025

1CT - 18KVS2-S11

$515 LCDB50501.50CT - 14K

VS2-S11$735

Fits Sub& GMT

18KY - $325SS - $100

Inserts$25

LBDB50151CT - 18KVS2-S11

$550

LCDB50702CT - 14KVS2-S11

$935LDBD5005.70CT - 18K

VS2-S11$415

Your Headquarters For All Rolex Aftermarket Accessories

We Stock ManyDifferent Styles And Sizes Of Aftermarket Watchbands, Including SS, Two Tone, 14K And 18k All Gold Watchbands.

To

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888.699.8947F.S. ENTERPRISEwww.fsenterprise.com

RLPD515 18K 1.85ct $2700

RMPD500 18KY $2850

RMJ1010 SS $100

RLJ2012 18K/SS $400 Two Tone

RLO3025 18K/SS $425 Two Tone

RMJ1002 18K/SS

$575 Two Tone

RMO4055R

18K/SS

Rose Gold

$600

We Also Stock Date, Mid-size, And No Date Diamond Bezels.

F.S. Enterprise is Not Affiliated with Rolex Watch, U.S.A., Inc. Rolex is a Registered Trademark of Rolex, U.S.A., Inc.

Price based on $1000-$1100 Gold

HOTSELLER

HOTSELLER

1059Findco_DZ 1 3/16/10 1:49:00 PMLuxury Care Since 1895

Hagerty offers a wide variety of productsfor cleaning and caring for silverware andother precious metals.

Cleaning & Caring for Precious Metals

Hagerty DistributorsH&W Perrin

416-422-4600Burney Giftware

416-736-9990

These silver protection strips neutralizetarnish-causing gases inside enclosedstorage and display areas keeping polishedsilver and silver-plate shining for months.

Reliable Watch Supplies514-866-1095

Prestige Pak514-387-8888

Habsons Jewellers Supply604-708-9700

Silver Protection Strips

TrollbeadsCanada.comThe Trendy [email protected]

CJTrollbeadsAd1*4Showcase.indd 1 04/05/10 11:37 AM


xxx-xxx.CJ_Showcase-Market_June.indd 90 5/7/10 4:06:22 PM



905� 469� 9378

[email protected]

ADVERTISING & DESIGN � PHOTOGRAPHY

TRADE SHOW DISPLAYS � PRINTING

CJ_June10_KWest:CJ_June10_KWest 4/29/10 10:32 AM Page 1


MCD Pearl ImportsA selection of pearl strands, loose pearls

and pearl jewellery.

27 Queen St. E., Suite 703 Toronto, ON M5C 2M6

T (416) 368-2690 • F (416) 368 2426

Email [email protected]

MCD Showcase:Layout 1 2/25/09 10:34 AM Page 1




SOLUTIONSOUR SERVICES ARE YOUR

STORE CLOSING SALES • CONSOLIDATION SALESRETIREMENT STRATEGIES • PROMOTIONAL EVENTS

BUY & SELL MERCHANDISE

For a Free & Confidential ConsultationCall Lawrence Skoworodko

Toll Free: 888-955-1069 • Local: 306-955-1069303-165 3rd Ave South • Saskatoon, SK • S7K 1M3

STEWART’S HOROLOGYREPAIR & RESTORATION

• QUALITY service & attention to detail• 5 highly qualified technicians• Large inventory of parts & access to all major supply houses• Repairs to fine watches, quartz & mechanical• Restoration of pocket watches

1515 Portage Avenue, Winnipeg, MB R3G 0W7, CanadaTel: (204) 789-9620 Email: [email protected]


New from Italy and Now in Canada

• Original Italian Design

• 19 Colours

• 3 Sizes. High Silicone Rubber

• Ultra Light (10 Grams)

• 3 Atm Water Resistance

Contact Offi cial Canadian Distributor at (416) 409 3855 or email to [email protected]

JAPANESE AND CHINESE WATCH MOVEMENTS

Here are some of our everyday prices:

SERVING CANADIAN JEWELLERS AND WATCHMAKERS FOR 75 YEARS



Myota 2035...................... $2.50 each Myota 2035 (dozen) ............ $2.20 each Myota 0S10 ........................... $19.95 Myota 0S80............................ $27.95 Myota 6M12............................. $5.75 Seiko 1N00 ............................ $14.95 Seiko 1N01 ............................ $17.95 Seiko 7009 (automatic) ................ $45.95 Lorus V810............................. $12.75Lorus V811 ............................ $12.75

Hattori VD57........................... $17.95Hattori VX10 ............................. $5.45Hattori VX 43 ............................ $5.50Hattori VX51 ............................. $3.95Hattori PC 21............................ $2.40

CHINA DG2813........................ $13.95CHINA ST6D3KS...................... $12.95(over 69 different chinese movements in stock)

Established 1935


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Studio Publicity ad Final May 5th.indd 1 5/5/09 7:06:44 PM





A D V E R T I S I N G

marketplaceFor more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected].

ABA.B. MACHINERY

PlasticInjectorsNew & Used

PULSE POINT STUDIO 60 STUDIO 30LASER WELDERS

New & Used machinery andequipment for jewellersBUY - SELL - TRADE

www.abmachinery.comTel: (514) 737-1660Fax: (514) 737-9335

Toll Free: (888) 901-8888Email: [email protected]

Insurance for Customers Jewellery

cjFebMar10_CJB_Ad_rev.indd 1 1/29/10 3:14:36 PM

27 Queen Street East #806 Toronto, Ontario, M5C 2M6Tel: (416) 777 0010 • (416) 306 0705Fax: (416) 777 0021 • Cell: (416) 566 5579Email: [email protected]

Dynamic Gems Group IncWholesale Diamonds and Jewellery

Untitled-1 1 10/30/09 12:01:02 PM

Sam SalehiPresident

Dynamic Gems.indd 1 2/8/10 11:36:00 AM

Edmonton Findings House Ltd.Watch and Jewelery SuppliesClock and Watch Movements

All Kinds of Batteries & Watch CrystalsWax Patterns, Gem Stones, & Findings

Packaging, Bags, Boxes & DisplaysPh: (780) 452-8693Fax: (780) 452-8693Website: www.efjewelrysupply.comEmail: [email protected]

10524 - 124 St.Edmonton, Alberta

Canada T5N 1R9

EdmontonFindings.indd 1 7/16/09 11:45:31 AM




marketplaceFor more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].

CJ_Template.indt 1 4/22/10 2:57:07 PM

PRECIOUS METALS DEALEREXPRESS GOLD REFINING LTD.

ASSAYING • REFINING •• NO MINIMUM LOTS OR MINIMUM CHARGES

• 4TH GENERATION EXPERIENCEIN PRECIOUS METALS TRADE

LET US EARN YOUR TRUSTWeb: www.xau.ca

Tel: (416) 363-0584 • Fax: (416) 363-9633 • Toll Free: 1-888-401-111121 Dundas Square, Suite 401, Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 Email:

[email protected]

Project2:Express Gold Marketplace ad 2/25/09 3:11 PM Page 1

CanadianJeweller.indt 1 7/15/09 12:13:12 PM

Call our Hotline for Prices: 416-366-GOLD (4653) Tel: 416-366-6031 and 416-366-8193 • Fax: 416-366-3499 27 Queen Street East, Suite 901, Toronto, Ontario

Available for Immediate DeliveryAll Precious Metals Bought, Traded and Refined

PLATINUM CASTING GRAIN, IRIDIUM, RUTHENIUM

GOLD DEPOTGOLD DEPOT

Lacy & Company Ltd. Established 1927

Shop On-Line www.lacytools.ca

Quality tools for Quality Results ~ The Complete Jewellers Supply HouseAgent for Neutec Laser Welders ~ Casting Systems, Umarq Engravers, Durston, Elma, European Hand Tools, Busch Burs, Castaldo, Kerr, Foredom, Grobet USA

Ask about the Jewellers Advantage !416-365-1375 1-800-387-4466 sales@ lacytools.ca

55 QUEEN STREET, EAST, TORONTO, ONTARIOMONDAY - FRIDAY 9:00 AM TO 5:30 PM

WALK-IN SHOWROOM

LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.

• Cutters of Rough Diamonds• Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes

• Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds

21 Dundas Square, Suite 805Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7Tel/Fax: (416) 368-6883

email: [email protected]

Lala Diamond PDF:Layout 1 12/10/08 6:52 PM Page 1

CJ_Template.indt 1 4/13/10 11:08:42 AM

H & W PERRIN Co. LtdCanada’s Leading Supplier of Watch & Clock Materials

PERRINS’ stocks a complete range of findings and settings for the jeweller and adeep stock of materials for the clock & watchmakers

We inventory a large selection of tools, equipment & supplies for all the trades.

A long standing tradition of service since 1929.If you aren’t doing business with us, you’re doing it the hard way!PHONE: (416) 422-4600 . . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-387-5117FAX: (416) 422-0290 . . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-741-6139

� [email protected]

Perrin ad:Layout 1 3/23/09 7:00 PM Page 1




marketplaceFor more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected].

B U Y I N GBROKEN/CHIPPED DIAMONDS

CENSOR – SINCE 1917212-764-7130 IMMEDIATE PAYMENT!

OWN YOUR OWNRECESSION RESISTANT

FRANCHISE!World’s Largest Jewellery

and Watch RepairFranchise is Looking to

Expand in a Mall Near You.Make money for yourself andtake control of your future!

• High Traffic Locations• Extremely High Gross Margins• Low Inventory Costs• 25 Year Proven Record• Full Training, No Exp Nec.

WE THRIVE IN ANY ECONOMY!(800) 359-0407www.fastfix.com

GBA marketing class.:Layout 1 3/24/09 2:35 PM Page 1

SALES REPS REQUIRED

Looking for sales rep. on the road, for line of watches, must have experience with jewellery. Send your C.V. at: [email protected] or by fax at: 514-739-4812


classifi edFor more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected].


DISTRIBUTORS/SALES REPImporter of designer brand watches looking for distributors/sales reps. � ere are more than 200

jewelers representing our lines across Canada and we are looking to expand our presence in Ontario, BC and Alberta. Please contact Armando at info@

� oriwatches.com

ALL U

ND

ER

ONE ROOF

IMPERIAL

ROYAL CHAIN

Y�M

Krohn Industries, Inc.

Cohler Enterprises, Inc.

COLLECTION

What’s new and coming soonat Mary Jewellery?

Keep an eye on our websitefor more information

The Diamonds You Need. In Stock. Overnight.

We carry finely cut diamonds rangingfrom .01 ct to 3.00 ct in a variety of shapes including round brilliant, princess, radiant, ascher, emerald, heart, pear, marquise and oval.

Included in our inventory are CANADIAN diamonds.

Selection, Service and Valuea family tradition since 1955

www.wmolldiamonds.comPhone 416.364.9748 • Toll Free 1.800.361.8894 • Fax 416.364.9738

21 Dundas Square, Suite 1403 • Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7

Refining - Assaying - Trading

Let Us Earn Your Confidence-Call Us Before You RefineTel: (416)7366052 Fax:(416)7364334 Toll Free:1-800-785-2371

Actual size 3.9" by 2.0"

Precious metal specialists and refiners of gold and platinum jewellery scrap

Web:www.refinegold.ca E-mail: [email protected] 359 Canarctic Drive,Downsview, Ontario, M3J 2P9

Check for our refining specials and on line prices At: www.refinegold.caand www.goldrefiner.ca

Refine-All Metals Ltd.

Dealers and refiners of Precious Metal Scrap

Let Us EarnYour Confidence. Call us Before You Refine 21 Dundas Sqaure, Suite 311, Toronto, Ontario, M5B 1B7

CNC Gold Refining Inc

Toll Free: 877-465 3497

9 9 9 9

E-mail:[email protected] Web: www.goldrefining.caTel: 416-642 3600 Fax:416-642 3500

While You Wait-Immediate Settlements

www.goldrefining.ca

Check our State of the art Jewellery AlloysCheck Our Site for the Up-to-Date Buy and Sale Prices

At:

WIZMAN GEMS INTERNATIONAL LIMITED

Diamond ImportersCelebrating 26 years of Excellence

From .002ct - 5.00ct Certified

www.wizmangems.comTel: (416) 360-8828 Fax: (416) 360-3708

Email: [email protected] Queen St. E, Suite 1403, Toronto, ON M5C 2M6, Canada

JEWELLERY STORE FOR SALE

� is successful and independent jewellery business has been in operation for over 30 years. � e business is known for its wide selection of high-quality jewellery lines, superior custom cra� smanship, honest and knowledgeable sta� , excellent reputation, and outstanding customer service. � e business o� ers a nice selection of high quality jewellery, custom design and fabrication, jewellery repairs, buying gold and recycling, appraisals and estate closings. � e business occupies 1,000 square feet of leased space that o� ers customers an inviting and relaxed atmosphere. Owner retiring. Contact Judi Majkut at 306-551-2355 or email [email protected] or visit www.sunbeltsask.com for more information.



sectionhead

Fax Now to: 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392 | or Mail card today to: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8

PAGE

97 GET FREE INFORMATION! SEE A PRODUCT YOU LIKE? WANT MORE INFORMATION, ABSOLUTELY FREE?…

on any product advertised in this issue

BY FAXOR MAIL

1. See product you want info on

2. Use this quick reference list below to fi nd its free info number (it’s also on the ad)

3. Write the number(s) on the attached free info card

4. Mail or fax us at 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392

5. Receive free info direct from as many advertisers as you like

CONNECT WITH… page write # CONNECT WITH… page write #

Siffari 2 101Plastichic 3 102Stuller 4-5 103Jewellers Vigilance Canada Inc. (JVC) 6 104Peter Heim 7 105JSN Jewellery 8 106JSN Jewellery 9 107Pandora 11 108Crown Ring 13 109Chamilia 15 110World’s Gold 17 111Atlantic Engraving 19 112Malca-Amit 21 113Malca-Amit 23 114Fendi 25 115The Trendy Group 27 116Butterfl y Gem 29 117Jewellers Mutual 31 118Bergeon 32 119Rousseau Chain Imports 33 120MCD Pearls 33 121Pacifi c Urns 35 122O’Neill Diamonds 37 123 Gemological Institue of America 39 124Karat Imports 41 125UBM Asia 43 126Western Canadian Jewellery Expo 45 127Toronto CGTA 47 128Nova Diamonds 55 129 La Corporation Des Bijoutiers Du Quebec (CBQ) 63 130

Selling area of your store under 1,000 sq.ft. 1,001 - 3,000 sq.ft. 3,001 - 5,000 sq.ft. over 5,000 sq.ft. Approximate annual sales volume under $500,000 $500,000 - $1 million $1 million - $5 million $5 million - $10 million $10 million - $20 million over $20 million

Categories you personally manage Retailer Designer Gemologist Supplier Manufacturer Other _________________________________

Which category best describes your business classifi cation? Education Retailer Manufacturer Wholesaler Importer Designer Services (repair, appraisals, etc.) Other: ________________________________

Number of employees at your location 1-3 4-8 9-12 over 13

Number of locations: ______________________

Signature: __________________________________________ Date: _______________

Your Name: _________________________________________ Title: ________________

Company Name: ___________________________________________________________

Address: _________________________________________________________________

City: ________________________________ Province: ___________________________

Postal Code: ______________________________________________________________

Phone: ______________________________ Fax: _______________________________

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2. Use this quick

TW Steel 67 131Bulova 73 132Crown Ring 75 133Sanghavi Diamonds 81 134Blue Point Jewellers 82 135 Noble Gift Packaging 83 136JCK 87 137Polar Gems 89 138Jomark 99 139Mirage Creations 100 140Trollbeads Jewellery 18 145 Jewelers Mutual Insurance 18 146Stuller CounterSketch 18 147Atlantic Engraving 18 148Jomark 20 149Peter Heim 20 150GIA 20 151 Nova Diamonds 20 152Pacifi c Urns 22 153JSN Diamonds 22 154Polar Gem 22 155Western Canadian Jewellery Expo 22 156PlastiChic 24 157Butterfl y Gem 24 158Pandora 24 159 Crown Ring 24 160Bulova 26 161Chamilia 26 162Siffari 26 163Renault 26 164

Yes! Please send me or continue to send me Canadian Jeweller magazine No, don’t send

JUNE/JULY 2010WRITE IN THE NUMBERS HERE FOR EACH PRODUCT YOU WANT MORE DETAILED INFORMATION ON

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081.CJ_FaxBack.indd 97 5/7/10 4:30:26 PM

lastword


The world embarrasses me, and I cannot dream

that this watch exists and has no watchmaker.

— Paul Aguirre

Watches sometimes strike me as a relic of the past, having become merely an accessory in today’s tech-driven market. Yet when I see a modern timepiece like the Classic Fusion Gold Ceramic by Hublot, I’m reminded watches are as relevant as ever before. With a Carbon fibre dial, a bezel in black ceramic, 45mm case in rose gold and a sleek, black alligator-rubber strap, this is definitely wrist worthy. It represents the timeless style, elegance and necessity of why a watch won’t (and can’t)

ever be replaced. Valued at $17,900.

French writer and philosopher Voltaire once said:

“ ”

082.CJ_LastWord.indd 98 5/7/10 12:10:05 PM

JOMARKDISTRIBUTORS

Luxurious... Opulence... LavishnessFirst in Distributing the

World’s Finest Italian Jewellery!

John Di ScolaTel: (416)606-0369 Fax: (905)264-8419 email:[email protected]

Diemme� eChic, cla� ic, outstanding enriching and ve� atile jewels.

Jomark.indd 10 12/21/09 10:51:42 AM


cjJuneJuly10_Jomark_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 4:29:26 PM

PRM-265 PRM-265

PRM278 PRM271

Mirage Creations Inc.221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4

Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677www.miragecreations.com e-mail: [email protected]


cjJuneJuly10_Mirage_Ad.indd 1 5/5/10 4:30:45 PM

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