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bay of islandsnz road trip

auckland to the bay of islandsAbout an hour out of the city, Matakana is popular with Aucklanders as a weekend escape for its wineries, restaurants and markets. It would be easy to spend a couple of days there, but our goal is the Bay of Islands three-to-four hours north of the city, so instead we keep heading up State Highway 1 to the coastal holiday village of Manghawai Heads.

Here you can stop for lunch by the sea, or visit the first of Northland’s wineries, Lochiel Estate (60 Brook Ln, Mangawhai Heads, +64 9 431 4554, lochielestate.co.nz),

in the hinterland. Toot your horn (or phone ahead) and you’ll be greeted by Liz and Gary Cameron for a tasting in their modern country home. Their son, winemaking consultant Rob, is on board producing their chardonnay, pinot gris, syrah and a fortified malbec. If you’d like to stay among the vines, they also offer tranquil B&B rooms (from NZ$140 per double with breakfast).

Back on the main road, stock up on imported gouda, NZ cheeses, local smoked meats and an array of salty and sweet licorice at the Kaiwaka Cheese Shop (State Hwy 1, Kaiwaka, +64 9 431 2195), an unlikely treasure trove of Dutch foods.

A little further north, it’s well worth a long-lunch detour to à Deco (70 Kamo Rd, Whangarei, +64 9 459 4957) in Whangarei. The classic curves of this Art Deco building now house Northland’s most highly regarded restaurant. Chef/owner Brenton Low, who spent time with Luke Mangan at Sydney’s Salt and White at the Hilton Auckland, is exacting in his pursuit of pure flavours. Think line-caught snapper ceviche with paua (abalone) and basil, and Meyer lemon cloud with blackberry and lemon sorbet, matched to well-chosen wines. Even better news, they do a great-value three-course lunch for under NZ$40.

The further you head into New Zealand’s subtropical north, the more you realise that you‘re on a Pacific Island. The dramatic fjords and snow-capped mountains of the South Island feel half a world away as lush green countryside takes over. The winding Twin Coast Discovery Highway forces you to slow down and adapt to the pace.

Both the original Maori canoes around 1000 years ago, and European settlers in the

18th century, first landed in this beautiful corner of the country and decided to stay, lured no doubt by the Northland region’s temperate climate, fertile land and calm waters abundant with sealife.

The same qualities draw tourists today, most to the sheltered coves and historic villages of the Bay of Islands. Our road trip from Auckland up the East Coast revealed plenty more reasons to visit. Get away

from it all on the far north’s near-deserted beaches, or enjoy warm local hospitality at the region’s cafes, restaurants and wineries. Great seafood, roadside produce stalls and artisan foods are plentiful (print out a Northland Food and Wine Trail Map at northlandnz.com), while accommodation ranges from beach caravan parks to welcoming B&Bs, resorts, unassuming ‘bach’ cottages and luxe holiday homes.

Head north out of Auckland and make your way along the East Coast for a road trip that will introduce you to stunning bays and beaches, incredible seafood and friendly local producers.

WORDS Danielle Oppermann PHOTOGRAPHY nicOla eDmOnDs

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Clockwise from opposite: Citrus groves  in Kerikeri; Salt Deli, Paihia; Smoked eel and kumara fritters at Waikokopu Cafe, Waitangi;  a cuppa at Neon Cafe, Kerikeri; Moroccan lamb at Salt Brasserie, Paihia; à Deco, Whangarei; pohutukawa in bloom at the Bay of Islands.

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the bay of islandsIn summer, the pohutukawa (New Zealand Christmas trees) that fringe the coast unfurl their crimson flowers, and the Bay of Islands towns of Paihia, Russell and Opua fill with local and overseas holidaymakers coming to swim, kayak, sail and fish.

From Whangarei, you have two driving choices: the direct route through Opua, or a detour up the prettier coastal road that will eventually lead you to Russell.

Car ferries travel frequently across the bay, making it easy to base yourself in one spot and spend a few leisurely days exploring. Further north, Kerikeri is the agricultural heart of the area, known for its kiwi fruit, citrus and avocados.

RUSSELL & OPUAOpua is your first stop in the Bay of Islands from the main highway. The local diner here is Bluewater Bar and Bistro (3 Beechy St, Opua, +64 9 402 8008), which is good for freshly landed fish and bistro favourites. It’s right next to the car ferry, which leaves for Russell every 10 minutes.

Once you land on the other side, you can stop on the road into Russell at Omata Estate winery (Aucks Rd, Russell, +64 9 403 8007) to taste chardonnay, syrah and merlot. Also look out for the Chelwood Oysters shed (212 Aucks Rd, Orongo Bay, +64 9 403 7626), and grab a dozen or two of their briny, freshly shucked Pacifics.

Briefly the nation’s first capital, the village of Russell itself (we prefer its original Maori name, Kororareka or ‘Sweet Penguin’) is the historic heart of the Bay of Islands. It’s difficult to imagine this pretty hamlet of painted weatherboards and cottage gardens, tagged ‘Romantic Russell’, as the unruly whaling port it once was.

Kamakura (29 The Strand, Russell, +64 9 403 7771) is the high-end dining option here, where diners flock to the waterfront tables and take in the sunset along with mod-Asian and Pacific Rim flavours. The NZ-focused wine list offers plenty of good choices by the glass.

Sally’s Restaurant (25 The Strand, Russell, +64 9 403 7652) has a loyal local following for its friendly atmosphere, and reliable oysters, steaks and fish and chips.

Gannets (cnr York and Chapel sts, Russell, +64 9 403 7990) is another option for its huge bowls of house-made pasta.

For drinks, the 150-year-old The Duke of Marlborough Hotel (35 The Strand, Russell, + 64 9 403 7829) has not only NZ’s oldest pub license, but historic charm and wide verandahs for a relaxing draft beer from their decent selection.

To further delve into the town’s past, stroll back down the waterfront to Pompallier Mission (The Strand, Russell, +64 9 403 9015), where the former French Catholic mission building now houses a museum, and the pretty walled gardens include an heirloom vegie patch and 19th-Century orchards. You can bring your own picnic into the grounds or order one from the nearby Waterfront Cafe (23 The Strand, +64 9 403 7589) and have a bash at croquet with the free gear on offer. Once you’ve covered The Strand, take a walk up Flagstaff Hill, or better still up to the Maori pa (fortified site) on top of Tapeka Point for a bird’s-eye view over the Bay of Islands.

A short stroll from the village, Arcadia Lodge (10 Florance Ave, Russell, +64 9 403 7756, arcadialodge.co.nz, from $185 per double with breakfast) is a turn-of-the-century house overlooking Matauwhi Bay. Owners David McKenzie and Brad Mercer escaped two decades in London and Sydney’s media to settle here four years ago. They’ve built Arcadia into a stylish yet relaxed B&B, with warm kauri floorboards and an eclectic mix of antiques, Pacific art and artifacts (look out for the huge whale vertebra that was once part of the building’s foundations). Five guest rooms include two spacious suites with ensuites and water views. The common lounge leads to the deck where you’ll wake up to Arcadia’s homemade muesli, chutneys and jams, and perhaps warm bacon, egg and capsicum pies fresh from the oven.

In the centre of town, Russell Cottages (16 Chapel St, Russell, +64 9 403 7737, russellcottages.co.nz, from $110 per double) are a modern, reasonably priced self-catering option for families. All cottages have full kitchens and laundries, DVDs and stereos, and there are common pool, playground and barbecue areas.

PAIHIA & WAITIANGIThe Bay of Islands’ main hub of Paihia is home to the region’s highest number of restaurants. Salt Brasserie (78-94 Marsden Rd, Paihia, +64 9 402 6199) makes the most of its position just across the road from the bay, but since the former Kauri Cliffs chef Neil Brazier opened here last year, he’s done much more than rely on a prime location to impress. The food strikes a balance between attention to detail and relaxed holiday fare, from the velvety duck-liver paté or scallops with coconut and chilli salsa to flavoursome Moroccan lamb from 90-Mile up north. Friendly staff flit about the cool urban space, and you can choose wines from a good NZ selection.

Tucked in the laneway next to the restaurant, Neil’s Salt Deli pumps out artisan breads, croissants, lunchtime panini and French patisserie such as macaroons and caramelised apricot tarts – with good coffee to match. You can also order picnic hampers to pick up before you head out for a day on the water.

For a sundowner, steer past the aquarium wall to the deck at the 35° South bar (69 Marsden Rd, Paihia, +64 9 402 6220) next to the ferry wharf. Or grab a beer across the road at the Bay of Islands Swordfish Club (Marsden Rd, Paihia, +64 9 402 7773) where you can admire the massive specimens mounted on the walls and the water views, and even ask the kitchen to cook your catch if you’ve had a successful day’s fishing.

Next door, Café Over the Bay (Upstairs, The Mall, Marsden Rd, Paihia, +64 9 402 8147) offers Organica coffee, big brekkies, and lamb and kumara pie for lunch. The new owners, brothers Donovan and Craig Woods, plan to renovate mid-year.

Paihia is also heavily populated with holiday apartments and motels, meaning the streetscape doesn’t quite measure up to its picturesque waterfront setting. If you do opt to stay in town, the Paihia Beach Resort and Spa (116 Marsden Road, Paihia, +64 9 402 0111, paihiabeach.co.nz from $419 per double with breakfast and free sauna session) has recently undergone a multi-million dollar revamp, resulting in a shimmering white façade, glam pool deck with restaurant and the indulgent

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Clockwise from top right: Ake Ake Vineyard, Kerikeri; the gardens and farm shop  at Ludbrook House; The Treaty House  at Waitangi; Brenton Low of à Deco, Whangarei; Mangonui Fish Shop.

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La Spa Naturale (also open to the public). Accommodation includes studios and self-catering apartments, all with king beds, flat-screen TVs and private terraces.

Aquatic adventures are an essential part of any Bay of Islands visit, and Paihia is the base for many of these. The largest tour operator, Fullers (+64 9 402 7421, fboi.co.nz), offers trips to Cape Brett and the ‘Hole in the Rock’ as well as dolphin encounters. Fishing charters, kayaking and snorkelling are also popular, and if you want to plumb the depths, Paihia Dive HQ (576 Williams Rd, Paihia, +64 9 402 7551, divenz.com) offers trips further north to Matauri Bay and the Cavalli Islands. It’s here that Greenpeace’s Rainbow Warrior, sunk in 1985 by French Government operatives in Auckland, now rests. If you’re lucky, you may even encounter seals as they play off the rocks of the Cavallis.

Nearby, the Waitangi Treaty Grounds (1 Tau Henare Dr, Paihia, +64 9 402 7437, waitangi.net.nz, entry free for NZ residents) lie just over the bridge from town. A towering flagpole marks the spot where Maori chiefs (many from Northland’s Ngapuhi iwi or tribe) and representatives of the British Empire signed New Zealand’s founding document in 1840. It’s well worth joining one of the range of guided tours and cultural experiences, to bring a deeper understanding of everything from the carvings on the huge ceremonial waka (war canoe) and in the meeting house, to the background of the treaty and its impact on modern day Maori/pakeha relations.

With its own entrance adjoining the Treaty Grounds is the Waikokopu Café (+64 9 402 6275), a relaxing, leafy spot that’s popular with locals as well as sightseers. Take a seat on the deck by the reed-fringed pond and order from chef/owner Hughie Blues’ creative, and imaginatively named, breakfast and lunch dishes. Try ‘Mushroom Magic’ – toast topped with pan-fried local mushies, spinach and creme fraiche, and the intriguing ‘Salmon Rushtie’ – brined, smoked and chargrilled salmon ‘wings’ served with lemon and dill cream.

KERIKERI & SURROUNDSAs you drive north through farmlands to Kerikeri, stop in to some of the farm shops and roadside produce stalls. If you’ve sampled Mahoe Cheese’s aged gouda, cumin-spiked leidse, quark or Greek yoghurt in local restaurants, you’ll want to visit the Rosevear family’s farm shop and factory (SH 10, Oromahoe, +64 9 405 9681).

Charming Ludbrook House (7491 State Hwy 1, Ohaeawai, +64 9 4059 846) is the working farm of hospitable, knowledgeable locals Chris and Sam Ludbrook, whose family have been on the property for almost 150 years. Call ahead if you can and they’ll greet you with tea and cake to enjoy in the garden, before you stock up on a selection of Chris’s fine panforte, glacé oranges, sauces, jellies, and preserved figs and quinces from the property’s orchards.

For one-stop access to local producers, the Bay of Islands Farmers’ Markets (Books & More carpark, off Hobson Ave, Kerikeri, Sundays 8.30am-12pm) is a must. There you’ll find Blue Ocean Fish’s bottled ‘Tuna Gold’ that will add a special touch to your niçoise salad, as well as Mighty Mushrooms’ fresh, dried and powdered oyster mushrooms, local olive oils and loads of fresh fruit and veg, including Marty Robinson’s organic harvest. There are also Ohaeawai free-range chooks and eggs, Cottage Bakery breads and Ikarus coffee. Enthusiastic local foodie Cedar Corban offers a market tour, cooking class and lunch package for NZ$165 per person (+64 9 401 7944, magnoliahouse.co.nz).

Many of Northland’s wineries are found around Kerikeri. Marsden Estate (56 Wiroa Rd, Kerikeri, +64 9 407 9398) and Ake Ake Vineyard (165 Waimate North Rd, Kerikeri, +64 9 407 8230) both have pleasant restaurants attached to their cellar doors. At the former, try veteran winemaker Rod MacIvor’s acclaimed pinot gris and Black Rocks Chardonnay. At Ake Ake, the bold red chambourcin is our pick. Others to visit include Fat Pig Vineyard (177 Puketotara Rd, Kerikeri, +64 9 407 3113) for its smooth syrah, and Cottle Hill Winery (28 Cottle Hill Dr, Keikeri, +64 9 407 5203), where US expat Mike Webb’s conversation flows along with his wines and fiery grappa.

Also just outside town, The Gourmet Grocer (Redwoods Centre, State Hwy 10, Kerikeri, +64 9 407 1122) stocks local Kaitaia Fire hot sauce and dried chillies, Kerikeri Organic Tea (try the lemon ginger and native kawakawa blend) and fresh produce. There’s also a small branch in Russell.

On Kerikeri’s main street, grab some of Rhys Taylor’s house-smoked meats at Churchills Fine Meats & Deli (KeriKeri Rd, Kerikeri, +64 9 407 8924) and a huge range of natural gear at Organic Gourmet (85 Kerikeri Rd, Kerikeri, +64 9 407 7090) including lush Omaha ice cream. Cafe Cinema (29 Hobson Ave, Kerikeri, +64 9 407 9121) is the locals’ pick for dinner, and Cafe Jerusalem (Cobblestone Mall, Kerikeri Rd, Kerikeri, +64 9 407 1001) spices up the scene with Middle Eastern fare.

At Neon, (Hub Mall, 93 Kerikeri Rd, Kerikeri, +64 9 407 9594), Wade Little and his partner Adrian Ballinger have brought quirky urban charm to their tucked-away cafe. Wade is serious about his barista duties, and in the food department says he aims to “put nanna back on the plate” with his range of house-baked biscuits, cakes, quiches and pies.

Asian touches meet modern country comfort in the two suites at Keith and Miranda Pasley’s Heron Hill B&B (6 Heron Hill, Kerikeri, +64 9 401 7047, heronhill.co.nz, from NZ$270 per double with breakfast). Guests also have use of the lounge with huge fireplace and terrace with sweeping views over Kerikeri Inlet. If you find yourself hooked on chef and caterer Keith’s muesli and fresh-baked breads at breakfast, ask him to cook dinner for you, too, using great local seafood and produce from his vegie patch.

mangonui & the karikari peninsulaAs you leave the Bay of Islands behind, the open spaces become wider and the beaches become emptier. Matauri Bay (home to the super-exclusive Kauri Cliffs resort, and a superbly located beachfront caravan park), Taupo Bay and Whangaroa are all good spots to while away a few hours or days in the “Top of the North”. Just before Mangonui, another former whaling town

Clockwise from above: Scott Fraser at Carrington Resort on the Karikari Peninsula; his snapper 

with new potatoes and beans; the deck at Arcadia Lodge, Russell; Coopers Cafe, Coopers Beach; 

views from Carrington Resort.

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that curves around Doubtless Bay, you can turn off to Hihi Olive Estate (478 Hihi Rd, Mangonui, +64 9 406 0061). Call ahead to visit the farm gate and sample extra virgin oils pressed from a variety of fruit, including the intensely flavoured J5.

It’s been many years, and ownership changes, since Mangonui Fish Shop (137 Beach Rd, Mangonui, + 64 9 406 0478) won its “World’s Best Fish & Chips” gong, but their jetty location remains hard to beat. So does their line-caught fish of the day, maybe bluenose, snapper or hapuka. Try to avoid tour bus times, though, when g roups have priority. If you’d rather cook your own, Apatu Aqua (284 Cable Bay Block Rd, Mangonui, +64 9 406 2015) sells super-fresh fish, scallops and kina (sea urchin), plus great manuka-smoked eel and hapuka.

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map key35° South ..............6à Deco ....................3Ake Ake  Vineyard ...........10Apatu Aqua ..........13Arcadia Lodge .......5Bay of Islands Farmers  Markets ............11Bay of Islands Swordfish Club ...6Bluewater Bar  & Bistro ..............4Cafe Cinema  .......11Cafe Jerusalem ...11Cafe Over the Bay . 6Carrington  Resort  ..............14Chelwood Oysters 5Churchills Fine Meats & Deli .....11Coopers Cafe.......13Cottle Hill Winery 10Duke of Marlborough Hotel ...................5Far North  Wine Centre .....12Fat Pig Vineyard ..10

Gannets .................5Heron Hill B&B ...11Hihi Olive Estate ..12Kaiwaka  Cheese Shop ......2Kamakura .............5Karikari Estate ....14Lochiel Estate .......1Ludbrook House ...9Mahoe Cheese ......8Mangonui Fish  & Chips .............12Marsden Estate ...10Neon ....................11Paihia Beach Resort and Spa ...6Pompallier ............5Russell Cottages  ..5Sally’s Restaurant  5Salt Brasserie  & Deli ..................6Sanctuary in  the Cove............13The Gourmet Grocer ..............10Waikokopu Café  ...7Waitangi  Treaty Grounds  ..7Waterfront Cafe ....5

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Winemaking couple Jen Bound and Ben Johnston now run the Far North Wine Centre (60 Waterfront Dr, Mangonui, +64 9 406 2485, farnorthwinecentre.co.nz), selling their own and other regional wines including small labels without cellar doors.

Coopers Cafe (157 State Hwy 10, Coopers Beach, +64 9 406 0860) is a breezy, relaxed spot with good coffee by day and more serious dining at night (think pan-fried fish on pea mash or green-lip mussel linguine) thanks to chef/owner Michael Venner, who worked around the world before returning to his Far North roots.

For your own private patch of coast, stay at Sanctuary in the Cove (283 State Hwy 10, Coopers Beach, +64 9 406 1707, sanctuaryinthecove.co.nz, from NZ$200 per double). Owner Bruce Abraham shares his little patch of paradise with two comfy, private cottages, separated from Chucks Cove only by lawn and 200-year-old pohutukawa trees. Both cottages are fully equipped, down to barbecues and kayaks.

Last stop is the Karikari Peninsula and Carrington Resort (Maitai Bay Rd, +64 9 408 7222, heritagehotels.co.nz, doubles from NZ$395 with breakfast). Ten lodge rooms and 14 villas offer all the mod cons, and the resort encompasses a pristine golf course, virtually private beach, wetlands and the Karikari Estate winery (with cafe and tasting room, karikariestate.co.nz).

Carrington’s talented chef Scott Fraser uses modern Spanish technique (inspired by his time at a resort in Spain) to play, respectfully, with local ingredients. Standouts are smoked eel with macadamia white gazpacho; Carrington Farm sirloin with balsamic jelly and mushroom emulsion; and a sublime choc mousse (suprisingly made with water rather than eggs or cream) matched to a spicy Karikari Estate Tannat. Many venture further north to 90-Mile Beach and Cape Reinga from here, but we’re content to end our road trip in the dining room, trying to make out the tip of North Cape on the blue horizon. d.Thanks to Tourism New Zealand for assistance. For more on Northland, visit: newzealand.com. Air New Zealand flies daily to Auckland from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane, tel: 13 24 76 or visit: airnewzealand.com.au.