the collection of ian mill qc - zachys...5 zachys is excited to announce the collection of ian mill...
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The Collection of Ian Mill QC October 26, 2019 at 9AM ESTLots 1–1308
Le Bernardin Privé153 W 51st St, New York, NY 10019 Sale 1910N322
Official Champagne Sponsor
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Contents
Contacts For This Auction 4
Introduction 8
Lots 1–1308 18
Buying & Bidding Information 261
Conditions of Sale 263
General Catalog Notes 265
Collection & Delivery Form 268
Bidder Pre-Registration Form 269
Absentee Bid Form 270
Index By Region & Producer 272
Bottle photography:Nadine Dix
Portrait photography:Joakim Blockstrom [email protected]
Designed byKristen HuttonConnor Michalek
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NEW YORK39 Westmoreland Avenue, White Plains, NY 10606
1.914.448.3026 • 1.914.313.2350 fax • [email protected]
HONG KONGUnit A&B, 3/F, Tern Centre Tower II, No. 251 Queen’s Road Central, Hong Kong
+852.2530.1971 • +852.3014.3838 fax • [email protected]
施氏亞洲香港: 如欲以中文查詢Zachys拍賣會事宜,請聯絡 +852.2530.1971 或電郵至 [email protected]。
Fritz HattonAdvisor, Principal Auctioneer
Austin ZhangSales Director, China
Jamie Pollack Global Managing Director
Charles Antin Senior International Specialist, New York
Jeff ZachariaPresident
Christy Erickson Head of Europe, Paris
Don ZachariaCEO
Terrence Tang Head of Asia, Hong Kong
ZACHYS NEW YORKAuctioneersFritz Hatton (#1123249) Jamie Pollack (#1408627) Jeff Zacharia (#1285129) Charles Antin (#1406288)
ConsultantGeoffrey Troy Senior Advisor
Consignor PaymentCindy Bennett
Bids, Customer Service & Buyer PaymentJodi Greco Customer Service ManagerDanielle Castaldo Bid ManagerRenée Henriques Daniella Hernandez Keody Ureña
LogisticsKatie Jacobs Special Operations ManagerDwayne Rennalls Logistics CoordinatorJomone Thorne Logistics AdministratorNeil Maxwell Special Operations
Auction WarehouseTrevor McLawrence Warehouse Supervisor
Operations Alicia Martell Director of Operations
Senior Wine SpecialistsShoshana Filene Business Development ManagerStu Jakub Senior Account ManagerMichael Moser PricingDave Sutro Catalog Editor-in-ChiefJosephine Young Property
Wine SpecialistsJulia Banks Property & zCollections ManagerKimberly Busch PricingAlberto Soriano Property Manager
Junior Wine Specialist & Wine Specialist AssistantsChristine Armold Catalog Production AssistantJonathan Bornstein Catalog Production AssistantBayron Carter Catalog Production AssistantAmelia Krusell Catalog Production Assistant Amanda Opromolla Sales Coordinator Cole Rockwell Marketing CoordinatorDennies Krecko PropertyEmily Rosenberg Property & Junior Wine Specialist
Creative Services Kristen Hutton Connor Michalek
Consultants Elliot Faber Senior Whisky AdvisorJunko Watanabe Japan
Wine SpecialistsChing Wong Private Accounts ManagerSimon Choi Wine SpecialistRaymond Lai Property Manager Dora Kam Wine SpecialistAlex Kong Wine SpecialistNathan Ung Sales Coordinator
Operations Alvin Sham Operations Manager
Customer ServiceMaggie Ma Operations SupervisorIvy Chan Administrator & Customer ServiceElaine Chui Logistics Solution SpecialistNicole So Office Administration Assistant
Marketing & Public RelationsSydney Corliss Marketing & Events Manager
ZACHYS ASIA
ZACHYS EUROPEConsultantsEdouard Berry Wine SpecialistPeter Mansell Marie Martel Specialist Assistant & LogisticsTotte Steneby
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Zachys is excited to announce The Collection
of Ian Mill QC on October 26, 2019 taking
place at Le Bernardin Privé! Zachys is thrilled
to pair with three-Michelin starred chef, Eric
Ripert, to host this highly anticipated auction.
OCTOBER 26, 20199:00am Auction begins 12:00pm Lunch is served
Le Bernardin Privé 153 West 51st Street New York City
(between 6th & 7th Avenues above Aldo Sohm Wine Bar)
Auction lunch is for registered auction bidders
only; advance reservations are required.
Complimentary lunch for registered bidders.
For reservations and pre-registration contact
914-448-3026 or [email protected]
Phot
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Zachys is pleased to feature our new dinner series
Raiding the Reserve Cellar.
These bespoke dinners will provide guests with rare opportunities
to indulge in comparative tastings of the greatest wines ever made.
From a DRC Richebourg vertical to a Château Latour vertical going back
to the 1911 vintage, complete with President Frédéric Engerer in attendance.
These dinners are always highly sought-after and very exclusive. We limit each
dinner to 14 guests, so everyone can fully experience the wines.
Please stay tuned for information on our fall lineup, which will be
posted on our Zachys tasting page.
Alternatively, you can contact your hostShoshana Filene for information
Raiding the Reserve Cellar
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A Note of Thanks from Zachys Wine Auctions
The team at Zachys Wine Auctions would like to extend our sincerest thanks to the incredible teams and individuals who helped make this monumental sale possible. To the entire team at Berry Brothers & Rudd, who worked tirelessly to help us prepare, inspect and photograph every bottle in this collec-tion. And most importantly, for preserving Ian’s collection with such impeccable care and custody over the decades, instilling the utmost confidence in the conditions and provenance of the wines we are able to present today. To Susie de Paolis, who has served as Ian’s personal cellarmaster and one of his most trusted advisors over the years. Thank you for your immense dedication to this sale, and the hundreds of hours you spent preparing for it with us. We couldn’t have done it without you. And finally, to Xavier Rousset MS, whose knowledge, passion and dedication to Ian, Cabotte, and the world of wine has brought both color and life to this auction and this catalogue.
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THE COLLECTION OF
It is with immense and profound pleasure that we present to you the Private Collection
of Ian Mill QC.
What lies in front of you is one of the most important collections of fine wine, and par-
ticularly fine Burgundy, that has come to market in the past decade. One could even say
century. On a recent evening, we sat down with Ian to understand a bit more about the
man himself, what drives him and his passion for collecting, and about the genesis of
this auction. In addition to being deeply knowledgeable about wine, Ian is a raconteur,
and takes obvious pleasure in walking down memory lane, especially when it comes to
wine. We’ve peppered this catalog with some of his most memorable anecdotes—stories
dripping with charm, not a few of which made us wish we’d been there.
This story begins in February, 1985, at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, the two-Michelin-
starred restaurant in Oxford, known as a training ground for some of the most famous
chefs in the world. The wine uncorked that day was a 1982 Bâtard-Montrachet from
Domaine Leflaive—“an extraordinary experience,” in Ian’s own words. As the bottle was
slowly consumed, Ian had a realization: his life was taking a turn. When he walked into
the restaurant, “wine was just wine.” But when he emerged, a fuse was lit. This fuse trig-
gered a lifelong passion for collecting and learning about wine, with a focus on Burgundy.
Ian began as most wine lovers do (albeit with a particular doggedness perhaps reflective
of his position as one of the UK’s leading barristers for the last 35 years). He began to
interrogate (his word—that’s the barrister shining through) sommeliers, read voraciously,
and frequent a little shop in Pimlico that happened to be owned by a genial chap and
weekly cricket opponent by the name of Jasper Morris MW. Jasper suggested wines that
would further Ian’s education—mostly Burgundy, but also wines from around the world.
During this stage, Ian bought wine to drink. That changed in the early 1990s, when Ian
became a shareholder at Morris & Verdin, Jasper’s Burgundy-focused merchant.
Ian Mill with business partner, Xavier Rousset, MS
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Thus begins the second chapter in this story: Ian joins the wine trade. He started
buying Burgundy in quantity, visiting the region, and tasting with producers
there. At this point, and for the next decade, Ian’s wine education went into top
gear. He forged personal relationships with producers the world over—many
of whom are represented by lots in this auction. But in 2003, Jasper decided
to sell Morris & Verdin to Berry Bros. & Rudd—to the chagrin of Ian, who was
at the time the largest non-executive shareholder of the company. Memories of
those days are etched in Ian’s mind, and reminisced about fondly. The annual
shareholders’ meeting was in reality a wine dinner at which Abigail, Jasper’s
wife, would cook a feast. Ian remembers Dominique Lafon literally swinging
from the rafters at a wine dinner, with Ian looking on, confident he was about to
witness the demise of one of Burgundy’s greatest talents. To give you an idea of
how heady these bacchanals were: Ian also remembers a particular evening at
which Jasper Morris stood up to announce that he had just had his 100th glass
of wine that evening!
Ian’s perception of BBR up until this point was that they were—again, his
words—“very boring.” But after their acquisition of Verdin & Morris (the “best
decision they’ve made in 300 years”) they went from boring to having one of
the best selections of wine in all of the United Kingdom. So much so that, for a
moment, Ian became interested in Bordeaux—and surprised himself!
Ian’s ownership stake in Morris & Verdin, and his subsequent relationship with
BBR brings us to the sourcing and storage of the wines in this offering. Zachys
sent a large team of Wine Specialists to Berry Bros. & Rudd to inspect, catalog
and photograph this wine in situ in their wine warehouse in Basingstoke. The vast
majority of the wines in this offering were purchased en primeur from UK wine
merchants. Ian noted that he’s a stickler for provenance, appearance, and general
quality, and since he has long term relationships with the merchants, they know
not to even offer him anything less than perfect. On occasion, Ian would buy
from a major London-based auction house—but when he did, he would subject
the specialist team again to an “interrogation” on the provenance of the collec-
tion he was to bid on. As Ian himself said, “there’s a reason I’m willing to put
my name on this auction catalog. I’m immensely confident in this collection.”Ian Mill with wine portfolio manager, Susie De Paolis
Ian Mill with wine portfolio manager, Susie De Paolis, and business partner, Xavier Rousset, MS
The next chapter begins when Ian became a restaurateur. He got to know Master Sommelier Xavier Rousset through the 28˚-50˚ wine-focused
restaurant empire he owned in Mayfair. Xavier wanted to start a restaurant that focused on Burgundy, and asked Ian to get involved—along with
other shareholders including some Burgundian producers themselves, which was an intriguing proposition. Now, Cabotte, from which this catalog
draws its inspiration, color and creative scheme, has been in business for three years, and it has experienced phenomenal success with accolade
after accolade as one of the greatest wine lists and restaurants in the world.
Which bring us to this auction—not the last chapter, but the first chapter in an entirely new book.
Ian is planning on retiring in the near future from his lifelong career as a renowned commercial Queen’s Counsel (a trial lawyer, in “American
English”) and has decided to open a version of Cabotte in Healdsburg, California—a spot that he and his wife, Beth (British, but raised in the Bay
Area), chose on a visit five years ago. The restaurant will feature elements of Ian’s Burgundy collection (don’t worry, he isn’t selling it all) alongside
the Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays of California, with the opportunity for diners to compare and contrast, bringing his passion for Burgundy and
California into a perfect assemblage.
This auction is of many of the most valuable aspects of the reputed Ian Mill Collection, as Ian himself prepares to move to California with his family
and dive into the new book. We are immensely honored and delighted to be a footnote in a narrative that is surely one of the most compelling
wine-collecting stories ever written. We hope you will enjoy spending time in this catalogue, and fortunate enough to acquire some of the rare
treasures from the immaculate cellar of one of Burgundy’s greatest aficionados.
Sincerely,
Jeff Zacharia & Christy Erickson
Ian Mill is one of the world’s most astute collectors, with a fine nose for quality across the regions and classifications. It has been my pleasure to provide him with a good many items in his cellar over the last 4 decades, especially the wines of Burgundy in both colours, and my good fortune to share in drinking a good proportion of them with him.”
– JASPER MORRIS MW
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TABLE OF
CONTENTS
CHAMPAGNE LOTS 1-137
BORDEAUX LOTS 138-145
RED BURGUNDY LOTS 146-736
WHITE BURGUNDY& CHABLIS LOTS 737-1053
RHÔNE VALLEY LOTS 1054-1111
ALSACE LOTS 1112-1123
GERMANY LOTS 1124-1153
ITALY LOTS 1154-1243
SPAIN LOTS 1244-1276
PORT & MADEIRA LOTS 1277-1285
CALIFORNIA LOTS 1286-1308