the clotherie fall 2012 magazine

A U T U M N 2 0 1 2 & W I N T E R 2 0 1 3 • I S S U E 1 6

A T U F T S C O M M U N I C A T I O N S P U B L I C A T I O N

T H E

“PERFECTING THE ART OF DRESSING WELL SINCE 1969”TM

M AG A Z I N E

S O L E O F A R E B E L

B R E I T L I N G F O R B E N T L E Y

I N T E R V I E W W I T H D A N I E L C R A I G

G O I N G W I T H T H E G R O W T H

T O D B O R N O T T O D B

L E A R N A B O U T N E W S U N S

A N N O U N C E R : S T E V E A L B E R T

A U T U M N 2 0 1 2 & W I N T E R 2 0 1 3 • T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E

Welcome to the fall 2012/winter 2013 edition of The Clotherie Magazine. As always, we wouldlike to thank each and every one of you, our loyal customers, for your patronage and support.

Hard to believe it’s time once again to welcome the cool breezes of fall and say adieu to thesweltering heat of summer. It seems we just had our summer sales, and now our store is fully stockedagain with an absolutely dizzying array of fall color. It is amazing to me that each season a new andunique tone is given off by our designer collections. As the economy rebounds, the attitude was fullyemployed by a compelling amount of color on runways around the globe from Milan to Paris toLondon to New York. And yet, black is back and is more acceptable than ever in the boardroom andbeyond. The thing about black is it’s such a basic color; a guy simply can’t go wrong if he puts it on.Neutral in effect, black works with pretty much any hue — and particularly so when set in direct con-trast with its opposing neutral, white.

With basic classics swinging back into vogue, several fashion observers have labeled men’sfall/winter 2012 “The Season of the Suit.” But there are only so many dark, two-button, single-breasted dress outfits one canwear. There’s nothing more sartorial than one of our double-breasted models or three-piece suits. When “dressing down” fora more casual look, the rave is unconstructed, soft sport jackets in a variety of colors and fabrications combined with jeansand chinos. Stop in the store soon to see the latest trend.

The Clotherie is proud and excited to announce the grand opening of our two new stores, BONAFIDE GOODS and R& R SURPLUS, at the UNION at Biltmore Fashion Park. Conveniently located directly across from The Clotherie, these inno-vative concepts inspire a new trend in fashion for the community. Read all about the stores in our “News” section (p. 8)

We hope you enjoy our latest issue of The Clotherie Magazine with a variety of articles on fashion, entertainment, trav-el, and so much more. Catch up on the latest happenings at The Biltmore (p. 7), note upcoming trunk shows (Events p. 6),and learn about our newest Phoenix Suns celebrity, Steve Albert, a new voice for the Suns (p. 10).

A special thanks to all of those who partner with us, locally and abroad, for helping make our magazine possible. Weencourage you to do business locally with each of the world-class companies represented in this issue.

We look forward to seeing you in the store soon!

Warmest personal regards,

Greg

2 5 0 2 E . CAM E L BAC K R OAD • P H O E N I X , AR I Z O N A 8 5 0 1 6 • T E L : 6 0 2 9 5 6 8 6 0 0 • W W W. T H E C L OT H E R I E . C O M

Todd Tufts • Editor in Chief, Publisher

Leslie C. Smith • Editorial Director

Vence Vida • Production Manager

The Clotherie Magazine is published by Tufts Communications, 1201 E. 5th Street, Suite 1009 • Anderson, IN 46012T: 765-608-3081 • E: [email protected]© 2012, Tufts Communications. All rights reserved.

2] T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E

issue 16 T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E

p12

p20

p46

1 Welcome

4 Out & About

6 The Clotherie Events

8 The Clotherie News

10 Al(bert) in the Family

12 To DB or Not to DB

16 Velvet–Luxe Looks

20 Our Interview with Paul McCartney

24 Holy Toledo

28 Breitling for Bentley

30 Going with the Growth

34 Menswear Greatest Hits 2012

38 The Real James Bond?

44 The Sole of a Rebel

44 Carried Away

46 Waistcoat, Want Not

p34

Greatest HitsTrend overview runs the gamut from classic suits to deluxe casualwear

the realjames bond?

p38

Our Exclusive Interview with Daniel Craig

THE CLOTHERIE travels to Florence, Italy for PITTI UOMO

It is always an honor for The Clotherie to travel to Florence for the prestigious Pitti Uomo Fashion fair where the latest trends infashion worldwide can be seen. The international fair expands over four days, promoting the men’s fashion world for clothing and acces-sories. It is a launching ground for many new projects in men’s fashion. Simply walking the expansive grounds of Pitti Uomo, catchingglimpses of brightly clad and flamboyant outfits, is an experience in and of itself. Pitti Uomo always offers a unique inspiration for upcom-ing seasons of fashion for The Clotherie as we seek new designers and trends.

of the town

out&about

Eton designers in Eton booth at Pitti


Entrance to Pitti Uomo in Florence, Italy

Mason booth at Pitti Display of Mason pants at Pitti

LBM jackets at Pitti Sand booth at Pitti

CANALI TRUNK SHOW

Friday, September 28th and Saturday, September 29th, Peter Schmid ofCanali was in attendance to meet and greet our customers who joinedus for a special Canali event. Year after year this is one of our most antic-ipated events and is always well received. We thank you all for contin-uing to make this event such a huge success!

EVENING OF TRENDS 2012 FASHION SHOW

The annual Trends Magazine EVENING OF TRENDS 2012 (formerly Beat the Heat) was held at TheArizona Biltmore Hotel on Saturday, September 29th. With proceeds benefiting the 2012 charities ofFamily Promise of Greater Phoenix, Florence Crittenton, Greater Phoenix Youth at Risk Foundation,Inc., The Neighborhood Christian Clinic and Southwest Center for HIV/AIDS, the evening was cappedoff with a Trendsetter Fashion Show highlighting fashions from The Clotherie.

Canali’s Peter Schmid with MattSargent & Angela Prestinario

BONAFIDE GOODS AND R & R SURPLUS COMING TO THE BILTMORE IN NOVEMBER!

THE CLOTHERIE is proud to announce the expansion of two new concept stores located in the Union at Biltmore Fashion Park.Beginning in November 2012, the Biltmore Fashion Park will add a unique mix of local and independent retail shops in a new venuecalled UNION. Located directly across from THE CLOTHERIE, the 7200-square-foot space will house independent businesses includ-ing two unique concepts created by THE CLOTHERIE!

BONAFIDE is the city’s first microhaberdasher, a distinctiveblend of men’s contemporary sportswear and accessories.We are excited to introduce the Billy Reid collection,acclaimed winner of the Council of the Fashion Designers ofAmerica Award (CFDA) for 2012. Billy Reid is a total col-lection of sportswear including jackets, sweaters, knits,trousers, shorts, shoes, and outerwear. BONAFIDE GOODSwill entice fashion consumers with exclusive up and comingdesigners. The store will encompass a complete collectionwith jeans, shirts, jackets and accessories such as watches,jewelry, hats, belts, ties, and bags.

R & R SURPLUS is the original creation of Andi and SteveRosenstein, a new twist and recreation of their old brandFitigues. R & R Surplus is designed for comfort, fun, work-ing out, or hanging out…the authentic and genuine designsare crafted with pride in the USA, inspired by thearmy/navy and sporting good stores of their youth. Thetheme is simplicity with a flare for fashion and the luxuryof comfort. The vintage-inspired collection is perfect towear any time of day or night! Stop by to see our newestcollect of R & R Surplus!

SPECIAL EVENTS ATTHE CLOTHERIE

Thursday, November 8th, 2012: GRAND OPENINGBONAFIDE GOODS and R & R SURPLUS at UNION(Biltmore Fashion Park)

Saturday, November 10th: SPECIAL GUESTS AT BONFIDEGOODS and R & R SURPLUS

Meet representatives from Billy Reid at Bonafide Goods

Meet R & R Surplus Designers: Andi and Steve Rosensteinat R & R Surplus

UPCOMING TRUNK SHOWS AT THE CLOTHERIE

Saturday, October 27th11 am – 5 pmEton Trunk Show with Matt Becker

Saturday, November 3rd11 am – 5 pmNat Nast Trunk Show with Ralph Odenberg

Saturday, November 17th11 am – 5 pmDonald J. Pliner with Jimmy RichmanGardeur Jeans with Kris KuhnTulliani Sterling Silver Bracelets and Belts with Remo Tulliani

of the town


MOVIES IN THE PARKEVERY FRIDAY…7:30 PM…CENTER LAWNJoin us for classic favorites under the stars!

OCTOBER 5: Jerry McGuireOCTOBER 12: The GooniesOCTOBER 19: Breakfast at Tiffany’sOCTOBER 26: PsychoNOVEMBER 2: Rear Window

NOVEMBER 9: The Devil Wears PradaNOVEMBER 16: BigNOVEMBER 23: No MovieNOVEMBER 30: RockyDECEMBER 7: A Christmas StoryDECEMBER 14: The HolidayMovies are shown in their original, unedited format. Alcoholic beverages are not permitted at Movies in the Park.

T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E [7

Customatic.com brings together years of experience designing andbuilding great architecture, furniture and interior items to create cus-tom pieces for the modern home.

Oils and Olives by Queen Creek Olive Mill will offer its popularbranded products. Customers can explore the vast selection of signa-ture extra virgin olive oils, balsamic vinegars, stuffed olives, and tape-nades along with bath and body products made with extra virgin oliveoil, and a unique selection of other local treasures.

For the People is a modern gift and home accessories store with a focuson functional design. Featuring brands such as Alessi, the store will givecustomers access to great lifestyle design products and give talenteddesigners an exciting venue to show and sell their work.

Frances & Charlie Newsstand will offer unique, hand-selected giftsincluding jewelry, candles, paper goods and books, as well as a varietyof magazines, newspapers and specialty publications featuring fashion,design, art, living and global news.

Lilly is a vintage-inspired women's boutique offering the latest fashionapparel, celebrity jewelry lines, chic and unique housewares, distinctivegifts, handbags, accessories and much more.

Little Artika, a Biltmore Fashion Park favorite, returns to the center inUNION. Offering cool stuff for small humans from lines like duc duc,muu kids, SkipHop, Nurseryworks and DwellStudio, Little Artikadelivers outstanding products for children, newborn and up.

Me Myself & Eye is a sunglass boutique that pushes the boundaries ofexpectation, self expression and individuality by offering the highestquality of fashion-forward sunglasses, readers and accessories.Operated by the owners of Sassy Glasses Optical Boutique, Me Myself& Eye offers the same superior customer service as its parent store witha focus on unique sunglasses and readers.

Royal Coffee will open a second location at Biltmore, brewing theirpopular roasts alongside a selection of fresh pastries.

Smeeks will bring their assortment of sweet treats and toys to UNION,offering the best old-time favorites – from handcrafted lollipops, tof-fee, caramels and marshmallows toyo-yos and shrinky-dinks.

Trattoria del Piero will bring to UNION the dedication and passion forgood food found at del Piero at the Mill. The restaurant will feature anew menu of sandwiches and salads that includes the famous Kalamatasandwich, as well as tantalizing new offerings and signature cocktails.Using family recipes, handcrafted extra virgin olive oils and the bestlocal and seasonal ingredients, del Piero has garnered both local andnational acclaim and was featured on the Food Network’s “Best ThingI Ever Ate” in 2010.

White House Flowers is an appealing, one-of-a-kind florist offering homeaccessories, gifts and repurposed and renewed treasures with a casualurban look, as well as traditional European-style furnishings.

The Willows Home and Garden offers simple yet sophisticated homedécor items along with apparel and in-home design services. They carryantique objects and a beautiful selection of exclusive lines including:Bella Notte Linens, Italian Vietri table topdishes, Michael Stars t-shirts, CP Shade apparel and a variety of unusu-al jewelry.

To learn more about UNION at Biltmore, please visit shopbiltmore.com and become a fan on Facebook at www.facebook.com/ShopBiltmore.

Located in the heart of Phoenix, Biltmore Fashion Park is knownas the “crown jewel” of Arizona because of its rich history andunmatched ambiance. The outdoor specialty center serves a diversecustomer base, drawing locals and visitors alike. Anchored by Macy’sand the state’s only Saks Fifth Avenue, Biltmore Fashion Park offers adistinctive retail mix including Ralph Lauren, The Clotherie, CorneliaPark, Escada and Hyde Park Jewelers, as well as national brand namestores. The shopping center has evolved into a major dining destinationwith options including James Beard-award winning chef ChristopherGross’ Christopher’s & Crush Lounge, Seasons 52, True Food Kitchenand Black Chile Mexican Grill.

Macerich is a fully integrated self-managed and self-administeredreal estate investment trust, which focuses on the acquisition, leasing,management, development and redevelopment of regional mallsthroughout the United States. Macerich now owns approximately 64million square feet of gross leaseable area consisting primarily of inter-ests in 63 regional shopping centers. Additional information aboutMacerich can be obtained at www.macerich.com.

SPECIAL EVENTS AT BILTMORE FASHION PARK

UNION STORES COMING TO THE BILTMORE

THE CLOTHERIE IS HONORED AS A-LIST STORE

Esquire Magazine once again honored THECLOTHERIE as one of the finest men’s specialtystores in the country in the coveted Spring 2012 BigBlack Book. Esquire Magazine is renowned for itsexpertise, knowledge, and advice in men’s fashion forover 75 years. THE CLOTHERIE, celebrating its 44thyear, is proud to receive this prestigious award that “salutes the stores that stand the test oftime. Stop in and see why we’ve been recognized as one of the nation’s top retail destinations.

THE CLOTHERIE WINS ETON WINDOW CONTEST FOR UNITED STATES!

THE CLOTHERIE participated in the Eton Window Contest 2012 with other retailers acrossthe country that carried the exclusive product. After designing the most creative and innova-tive window, THE CLOTHERIE was voted one of four National winners for 2012.

CHECK IT OUTVISIT OURWEBSITE www.theclotherie.com for the latest CLOTHERIE news, blog, fashion updates, magazine, and so much more!

The Clotherie online store at www.theclotherie.com/online-shop whichfeatures a wide selection of shirts, trousers, shoes, accessories and more

from your favorite designers...new fashions and exclusive vendors includingAlberto, Culturata, Donald Pliner, Eton, Gardeur, J. Paul Skincare and more.

Thanks to all of our FACEBOOK Friends! Pass the word to friends and family so we can con-tinue to grow...catch up on Clotherie news, link to the Online Shop, and so much more!Continue to join us on FACEBOOK or follow us on TWITTER.

of the town

The Clotherie Apparel Collections

for Autumn/Winter 2012. . . . .

AG Adriano GoldschmiedAgave

Alden ShoesAllegri OuterwearArnold Zimberg

Baade IIBill Lavin Belts

CanaliCitizens of Humanity Jeans

CodiceCorneliani

Culturata ShirtsDonald Pliner

Dion TiesEcco

Edward Armah Pocket RoundsErmenegildo Zegna

EtonEyebobsGardeur

Gendarme CologneGeorg Roth

Gravati ShoesHaupt

International LaundryItalo FerrettiJ. Brand Jeans

J. Paul Face CareJack Lipson Shirts

Jack VictorJohn Smedley

LBM 1911Left Coast Tees

Levi’s Made and CraftedMac JeansMason’s

Michael ToschiNat Nast

Original Paperback ShortsPantherella

RaffiRobert Comstock

Robert TalbottRufus Sportshirts

SamuelsohnSand

Tailor VintageThaddeus

Think PensTo Boot by Adam Derrick

TrussiniTulliani Belts

ZanellaZegna Sport

Z Zegna


Al(bert) in the FamilyBy: Greg Esposito, Suns.com

Steve Albert may be new to the Valley and the Suns, but ifyou spend more than five minutes with him, you feel like you’veknown him for years. His nonchalant attitude, soothing cadenceand brilliant ability to tell a story puts a person at ease. So muchso that he makes you feel as if you’re long lost friends just catch-ing up on what has happened in life.

The thing that stands out most while talking with Albert,however, is his quick witted sense of humor. With every story hetells, he finds a way to weave in a humorous anecdote or off-the-cuff comment like a combination of Harry Doyle and JerrySeinfeld that leaves you laughing out loud. If you didn’t knowbetter, you’d think he was destined to be a comedian but the fates,or hisgenetics, had other plans.

Albert’s path to the professional broadcast booth started in hischildhood living room. It was a journey that he didn’t take alone.His two older brothers, Marv and Al, were along for the ride aswell.

“When I was very young the three of us would call anythingaround the house,” Albert recalled with enthusiasm in his voice.“We would walk around doing play-by-play. We would sit at thedinner table and do play-by-play of the meal. It drove my parentscrazy.”

In an attempt to keep their parents sane and gain a little expe-rience, he and his brothers moved their play-by-play booth downthe hall.

“We would go off in this little room off to the side of the din-ing room. There was a TV in there and we’d go in there, shut thedoor, turn on a baseball game and turn down the sound,” he rem-inisced. “Then we’d set up a little table in front of the TV, like abroadcast table, and we’d switch off. One would do the play-by-play of the game, the second would run a record player with arecord that had the sound of a crowd and the third person wouldtake two big marking pencils from my father’s grocery store andknock them together to simulate the crack of the bat. Then we’djust rotate. We got early experience doing that. Our parents hadno idea what was going on behind that door. They thought we lostour minds, but I guess it worked out OK.”

It actually worked out more than okay for all three brothers.Marv would go on to national fame for his play-by-play calls onNBA games on NBC and TNT, and Al would hold broadcast jobsin numerous professional sports leagues. As for Steve, his path wasquite unique.

After spending his formative days in that tiny room inBrooklyn, the younger brother would head to Kent StateUniversity in 1968 to pursue his dreams. While there, he foundhimself part of two historic moments.

“I was at Kent State when the shootings took place. A few daysafter they took place they dispersed the campus,” he said. “I wenthome to New York from Ohio and a few days later I was on theKnicks’ bench as a ball boy for that Willis Reid moment when he hob-bled out on the floor. One of the great moments in NBA history. It wassurreal, I went from a terrible tragic moment in American history toone of the most amazing and memorable moments in basketball his-tory. Talk about mind boggling and drama.

It wasn’t the only time in his life and pro-fessional career that he’d find himself atthe epicenter of a dramatic situation. Aspart of his illustrious 24-year career callingboxing, Steve was ringside for one of themost bizarre moments in sports. In 1997he was the man saddled with the job ofdescribing the grotesque scene of MikeTyson biting off a portion of EvanderHolyfield’s ear.

“To be that close to it – I was ringsidecalling it – was just something you neverforget,” he said of the circus-esque scene that evening in LasVegas. “I did go back to my hotel room and contemplated quit-ting, because it was just such a repulsive thing to not only watchbut have to describe. It was basically cannibalism.”

After seeing a man-eat-man sporting event, the dog-eat-dogworld of broadcasting couldn’t have seemed that cold anymore.That doesn’t mean he was complacent. As a matter of fact, at theage of 61, he didn’t expect to get another chance in the NBA afterhaving previously called games for the Cavaliers, Nets, Hornetsand Warriors.

“I had almost given up on the notion of getting back in theleague,” he said providing an honest assessment of his career. “Ihad been doing boxing for 24 years with Showtime. I was knock-ing on the door of some teams the last few years and for whatev-er reason it didn’t materialize. Sometimes the stars are alignedcorrectly and it just works out. That’s what happened withPhoenix. It’s one of those things you can’t explain.”

Despite getting a second chance, Albert remains quite humbleabout his new job as the Suns’ television play-by-play announcer.He has a great deal of respect for the history of the franchise, andespecially for the man who has provided the soundtrack for manyof the team’s most memorable moments.

“Being an aficionado of broadcasting and the NBA for themany years, I know there is only and there will always only be onevoice of the Phoenix Suns,” he said. “That of course is the ‘RealMcCoy,’ Al McCoy. I was just happy to join the team.”

That doesn’t mean Albert won’t be able to add his ownunique tone and perspective.

“I’m just happy to be back in a sport where I don’t have tocover up my drinks, because of the possibility of splatteredblood,” he said of his return to the NBA from boxing. “Unless ofcourse Al, sitting in front of me, cuts himself shaving (laughs).Then I have problems.”

Like we said, he’s got impeccable comedic timing and theability to make you feel like you’ve known him for years. Don’ttake our word for it. Experience it yourself by welcoming himinto your living room on FOX Sports Arizona broadcasts this year.You bring the record player and table, he’ll bring the voice and theentertainment.

The Clotherie is happy to welcome Steve to the Phoenix Sunsand is proud to be wardrobing him for the upcoming season.

family


good


b y L E S L I E C . S M I T H

With basic classics swinging backinto vogue, several fashion observershave labeled men’s fall/winter 2012“The Season of the Suit.” But thereare only so many dark, two-button,single-breasted dress outfits one canwear, which is why designers thesedays are also hawking double-breast-ed models.

A wide variety of dbs floateddown the runways, mostly of thefour- and six-button kind, and most-ly buttoned right up to a modest veeof dress shirt and tie. The lookappeared to fit right in with thereturn to classic men’s clothing,although, oddly enough, it didn’tappear to fit properly. And that’s therub.

You see, today’s predominantlysingle-breasted suits have a sleek, no-nonsense Men in Black sensibility tothem that doesn’t apply to thefussier double-breasteds. The db’shorizontal axis across its twin rows ofbuttons directly opposes the straightvertical line of the slimly shapedsingle-breasted and thus comesacross as not quite of our time. Not-so-contemporary, either, are thosepeaked lapels pointing outwardtowards the shoulders, that slightpull in at the waistline, and a back-flapped flare at the hips, which givethe suggestion of an hourglass figure.But all these things can be accepted,even celebrated, by men who appre-ciate sartorial tradition more thanany temporary trend dictate.

800

0122

00

good


No, the biggest

fault with the latest

dbs lies in the modern

jacket’s shrunken

“hipster” hemline,

which, while arguably

passable on a single-

breasted suit, throws

off the entire propor-

tion of a double-

breasted ensemble.

Strange how just raising that hem an inch or two contrives to

make the jacket front look overly busy, with its cramped place-

ment of flapped pockets and multiple buttons. As well, the jack-

et’s cropping allows one to see more of the trousers than would

be normal, subjecting the delicate balancing act between suit top

and bottom to a jarring aesthetic knock.

Despite this style’s being championed by designers and a few

men’s fashion magazines, most retailers have a pretty good idea of

what really sells to their customers, and they’re giving most of this

season’s double-breasted suits a miss. But not all. Those models

that maintain a properly proportioned hemline will be the win-

ners, and if this look isn’t available yet via the designer route,

there’s nothing to

prevent a canny cus-

tomer from ordering

his double-breasteds

from an in-store

m a d e - t o - m e a s u r e

program. In fact, this

action has much to

recommend it.

One can also in-

dulge a taste for twin-

buttoning without getting into a suit, and here, this season’s

designers have been rather helpful. There are plenty of double-

breasted tailored worsted vests, knit vests and cardigans to indulge

in — plus a slew of double-breasted overcoats, greatcoats, duffle

coats, and pea jackets crowding onto the market.

You might even like to try one of the new db “sportscoats.”

Made from superfine fabrics and lightly constructed, these jackets

bridge the divide between dress and casual quite nicely.

Comfortable to wear and easy to shrug on over layered clothing,

they offer impeccable good looks without any of the stylistic

hang-ups that their more structured cousins can suffer from.

Those models that maintain a properly proportioned hemline will be the winners, and if this look isn’t available yet via the designer route,

there’s nothing to prevent a canny customer from ordering his double-breasteds from an in-store made-to-measure program.

In fact, this action has much to recommend it.

INTRODUCING THE ALL-NEW 2013 GS MODEL LINE

Introducing the new face of Lexus. Where multiple performance-driving modes and a commanding seating position invigorate you. Bold lines, sequential ambient lighting and an accommodating interior welcome you. Where available industry-leading technology keeps you connected like never before. And Premium and Luxury Packages surround you with our finest materials and innovations. Available in multiple versions, including all-wheel drive, Hybrid and F SPORT, the GS model line doesn’t just raise the bar. It sets a new one altogether.

GS 350 F SPORT

Taking the exhilarating performance of the GS to the next level, the GS F SPORT connects you to the road like never before. Among its upgrades, it boasts an even more aggressive Sport S+ driving mode, a specially tuned sport suspension, staggered-width 19-in wheels (RWD),1 and an available Lexus Dynamic Handling system with Dynamic Rear Steering (DRS). It also features a variety of exclusive design elements, including a more aggressive front fascia and a 16-way Sport driver’s seat with power side bolsters.

GS 350

Experience a bold step forward in performance, technology ,segakcaP yruxuL dna muimerP htiw elbaliavA .ngised dna

the all-new GS features exceptional agility, performance driving modes and offers seamless connectivity to your favorite mobile apps. All with an assortment of leather and wood trims to make the interior all your own. And, for even more personalized comfort, the Luxury Package features amenities like 18-way power front seats and rear-seat climate and audio controls.

GS 450h

Equipped with the Premium or available Luxury Package, the GS Hybrid defies compromise and convention. In addition to dynamic performance features like paddle shifters and new Sport driving modes, you’ll find world’s firsts like an available bamboo-trimmed steering wheel and a port- and direct-injected Atkinson-cycle engine that delivers a 34 mpg (hwy)2 rating and acceleration that will be the envy of your V8-driving friends.

Vehicles shown with available equipment.

Designed by Lexus.

TAILORED BY YOU

Earnhardt SCOTTSDALE LEXUS

CLICK --> www.ScottsdaleLexus.com

6905 E McDowell Rd. | 480-990-7000 | “NO BULL” SINCE 1951



V E LV E TTHE VELVETEEN JACKET

A n d O t h e r C l a s s i c L u x u r y S t o r i e s

A season so basic in shape, so starkly dark as this one has turned out to be begs for other methods of sensual stimulation. Deluxe materials can speak volumes.

looks

looks

Aesop’s Sables

Fur gives us an easy way to add dimensionand tonal variety to our outdoorwardrobes. This season’s pelt picks includeshaggy coyote-trimmed hoods on quiltedparkas and lapels trimmed with mink,sable or marten on every other type of out-erwear up to and including leather motor-cycle jackets.

Grimm’s Hairy Tales

If fur’s not your thing, get yourself somemouton – which is a fancy way of saying“sheep’s wool.” This off-white, hairy mate-rial also decorates a slew of outerwearlapels, as well as being turned skin-side-out and made into a jacket on its own.Process the hair a bit more, dye it darker,and you’ve got boiled wool, a faux moutonused in the manufacture of many of thisseason’s nubby, relaxed sport jackets andcasual vests.

Pat the Money

Speaking of hands, it’s hard to keep one’soff the soft, tactile cashmere and mohairsweaters being presented for fall/winter.Their rich wooliness usually precludes pat-terning, so most come solidly shaded insuch seasonal favorites as burgundy, olive,rust or camel, although a few do featurechests garnished with a thick band ofmulti-hued, vaguely Nordic motifs.

b y M A R K E D M O N D S

Our Exclusive Interview with

interview

What must it be like to walk inthe shoes of such a legend? Theanswer might surprise you. Sincewe had the opportunity, we posedthe question, and here’s what hetold us.

So how do you follow performing in one of the biggestbroadcasts of all time — the half-time of Super BowlXXXIX? Perhaps the as the closing act of the opening cere-mony for the biggest sports event on the globe: the 2012Olympic games?

And who in all of London could follow the Queen ofEngland parachuting into the arena escorted by none otherthan James Bond? Only a Beatle, who even at 70 years old canstill bring the house down with a live performance of “TheEnd” followed by a sing-along version of “Hey Jude.” E! Onlinereported it was the most watched opening ceremony in 50years, with 40.7 million viewers taking it in worldwide. Areported 22.4 million of those viewers were in Britain. Nodoubt a certain Beatle had at least a little to do with that.

After the show, Sir Paul McCartney tweeted, “Thanks forthe great response guys! Tonight was terrific, great, really cool.It was a trip and very exciting. It was a great opening ceremo-ny! Didn’t realize Her Majesty was such a good parachutist!”


Roger DayDirect: 602-745-5704 email: [email protected] West Indian School Road • Phoenix, AZ 85013phoenixmb.com

Arizona’s original Mercedes-Benz dealership since 1964.

2013 SL550

Enlightened.

It was conceived as a “super light” racecar, and its radical aesthetics

are reflected in its exceptional athleticism. The highly rigid yet light-

weight aluminum body of the 2013 SL550 writes an exciting new

chapter in this legacy of performance – along with noteworthy

advances in safety, efficiency and cockpit comfort. From its timeless

grille to its tapering LED tail lamps, its sweeping shape and artful

details bring every function to fruition in seductive style. With a

beauty that radiates from far beneath its sculpted shape, the all-new

SL550 reflects not merely its history, but its lifelong goal of making

history. Stop in today for a closer look.

If there is such a thing as a typical day, it might start in the localgym. I’ll spend an hour or so splitting the time between runningon a treadmill, stretching, or lifting what I’d once have called “girls’weights”, but I wouldn’t now because that’s sexist. And I’m nottelling you how much they weigh; let’s just say they are not chal-lenging. I’ll end with a headstand. After 50 years I’m still per-forming on stage — playing and singing pretty much nonstop forthree hours at a time — and I’ve realised I’ve got to keep fit, keepgoing, because I am getting older.

My wife, Nancy, tends to prepare breakfast. She makes a meancereal, you know...not granola, but it’s healthy enough. Then it’sdown to work, one way or another, preparing, recording... I’m nota workaholic, but I do have a strong work ethic. When we were inthe Beatles, I was the one who always wanted to make a record. Ihad fewer distractions than the others, as they were all marriedand bringing up kids in the suburbs. I was single — well, for mostof the time, before I married Linda — and living in the city, goingto exhibitions, concerts, and stuff. So it would be me ringing up,saying: “Come on, guys, time we made a record.”

The work ethic hasn’t changed, but other things have made adifference to the pattern of my life. The main thing is that after mydivorce I have a joint-custody arrangement. I’m luckier than manydivorced fathers because I have half the time with my youngest,Beatrice. I had a word with my promoter, and said: “From now onI’m only going to be able to work here, here, and here.” So instead


interview


Paul McCartneyof long, gruelling tours, we do more hand-picked events. And thatmeans the dates can actually be more enjoyable, and we’re alwayshungry to play. I much prefer it. You’ll have a little time to lookaround the place too. We were in Bologna not long ago and it wasreally nice to be able to see a city I didn’t know. I’m sometimesbothered by people when I’m out, but there are places where I canjust melt away. I made a decision long ago, when the Beatles thingwas clearly building. I said to myself: “Look, you either give up nowor you keep going and you just better get used to it.” So I’ve learntto live with it.

It’s great having a small child again. I’ve always loved children.I have five kids and eight grandchildren — all very Italian. I oftendo the school run. I gossip with the mums at the school — anddads as well, by the way. Quite a few come these days. At schoolI’m just another dad. When I first went there, the head said: “Let’sjust see if you can blend in.” In the playground I don’t talk like I’ma big shot. I talk about the next school trip or homework or thenext swimming gala. People aren’t stupid; they get it.

In the studio I’ll probably start about 11a.m. I’ve always pre-ferred recording during the day. For the new album I worked withthe producer Tommy Lipuma at Capitol Studios in L.A. We hadthese lesser-known songs and we kept it intimate, a small jazz-combo thing. The album took about two months to record. On anoffice day I’ll get in about midday, probably start with my PA, and

then have meetings. It could be with the guys from Apple, theBeatles organisation, bringing me up to date on Beatles projects. Itmight be to do with charity work. I do get lots of letters andrequests for autographs. My PA suggests things I might do, and itall gets selected down.

I don’t really use email or the internet. I prefer to travel light, soI have a slim mobile phone, and I can text, make phone calls, andsend photographs. All I use a computer for is music. Otherwise, Itend to avoid it. I’d rather walk in the real world than look at thecountryside in a virtual world. In my studio I use an Apple Mac forcomposing orchestral music. It’s quite a nice thing, with a bigscreen, and I use a program — very simple — called Cubase. It’saddictive; I can sit there for hours. For writing songs, I use my oldmethod — just a guitar with a pencil and paper. I try to get awayfrom people a little bit to a space where I’m kind of on my own. Afew hours thrashing at it, then I just give in, and I’ve either won orlost. If I’ve lost, I’ll attack it another day. There’s always anotherday.

In the evenings, Nancy and I might go the theatre and to dinnerwith relatives or friends, or we might stay home and watch TV. Myevenings are pretty much the same as anyone’s. I go to bed aroundmidnight. I’ve always slept well — and no, I don’t wake up the nextmorning thinking how famous I am. I wake up feeling extremelyordinary.

to spain


b y N O R M A N M I L L E R

From the dusty terrace by the Museo El Greco, I peer downsteep slopes past 10th century Arab baths into the green gorgeof the River Tagus, winding a cool watery coil around Toledo’shoney-stoned medieval walls. Hungry for even grander views, Iclimb the nearby belltower of the serene Church of SanIldefonso to be rewarded with the interplay between Spain’spremier cathedral and the massive Alcazar fortress across asweep of ochre rooftops.

Set on hills rising from the arid plains of Don Quixote’s LaMancha, Toledo stands tall in Iberian history. Seat of theSpanish court until its 16th century move to more open spacesin Madrid, the city’s filigree of cobbled lanes have bustled withRomans, Visigoths, Jews, Arabs, and Christians for over two mil-lennia.

After recapture from the Moors in 1085, Toledo remained aunique cultural melting pot where scholars flocked to study rareArab and Hebrew texts, and buildings like the 12th centurySanta Maria la Blanca appeared, a gorgeous pale-stoned assem-

blage constructed at Christian command by Islamic architects forJewish use. I learn more about Toledo’s Jewish heritage at theMuseo Sefardi in the 14th century El Transito synagogue, its oldprayer hall a dazzling mix of mud jar tiling and Hebrew carving.

The open-minded Toledanos also welcomed the painter ElGreco when his ethereal style saw him shunned elsewhere.After eyeballing myriad masterpieces at the dedicated museumset in a beautiful traditional house (though not, as some claim,his old house), I set off to find other works scattered around thetown in buildings as gorgeous as the art.

At the 16th-century hospice now the Museo Santa Cruz, ElGrecos jostle with modern sculpture, medieval furniture andRoman mementoes, while “The Greek” shares wall space withTitian and Tintoretto alongside fabulous tapestry and ceramicsat another 16th century beauty, the Hospital de Tavera — aperfect Sunday morning cultural outing I combine with a strollin the adjacent Parque de la Vega and delicious churros (frieddoughnut sticks) in the cheery park cafe.

Holy Toledo

to spain

In the vast gothic cathedral, I’m beguiled by carved pews adorned with supernatural beasts along with rich displays in the sacristy beforeheading for the Alcazar’s army museum inside the oft-battered fortress, rebuilt several times since 10th century Moorish beginnings, mostrecently after Franco’s brutal 1936 siege. It’s an unexpected treasure trove — historical photography, ethnographic wonders gathered fromAfrica, Japan, and the Pacific, plus dazzling weaponry, uniforms, and other militaria back to pre-Roman times.

I retreat to Circulo de Arte (Calle San Vicente), where contemporary Toledano painting covers two walls of an arts venue carved froma historic brick-lined temple. The previous night I’d heard a rock act strut their stuff here. Sipping a Domus, Toledo’s local dark brew, Itoast a town far more than just Greco to me.

THE INSIDE TRACK

Toledo’s famed Easter celebrations see white-hooded worship-pers take over the streets, “Like a beautiful funeral,” says one local.

Cigarrales are old aristocrat houses-turned-hotels dotting thehills across from the old city, characterful upmarket options forthose with a car or willingness to shuttle back-and-forth by taxi.

Get a grand view for free from the public library on theAlcazar’s top floor.

Dar Al Chai (Plaza Barrionuevo 5) is a fabulous teashop full ofMoorish flourishes and boisterous locals.

Some museums have free entry on Sunday morning, includingthe Alcazar and Museo El Greco.

THE BEST HOTELS

Posada de MonoloThe individually named rooms reflect Toledo’s Arabic, Jewish, andChristian heritage, and Los Curtidores has its own tiny courtyard.Great views from the breakfast room. (0034 925 28 22 50;www.laposadademanolo.com; doubles from 66).

Hacienda del CardenalThis 18th century former cardinal’s pavilion oozes historic charm,wrapped around a garden courtyard near the Alfonso VI city gate.The restaurant offers one of Toledo’s prettiest settings. (0034 92522 49 00; www.haciendadelcardenal.com; doubles from 83)

Hotel Palacio Eugenia de MontijoOnce home to an empress, the only 5-star hotel withinthe city walls also boasts a spa integrating ancientRoman and Moorish elements. (0034 925 27 46 90;www.fontecruzhoteles.com; doubles from 119)


THE BEST RESTAURANTS

LudenaStep through the curtains of this tiny bar/diner to try carca-musa, the spicy Toledano meat, pea, and tomato stew reputed-ly invented here in the 1950s. (Plaza de la Magdalena 10; 00 34925 22 33 84; Daily 10.30a.m.–4p.m., 7:30–11:30p.m.)

Restaurant PalaciosCharmingly old-fashioned, with daily menus ( 11-19) includingstonking bowls of white beans with partridge and richlyflavoured venison. (Calle Alfonso X El Sabio 4; 00 34 925 223497; Daily 12–4p.m., Mon–Sat 7-11p.m.)

El PalaceteGorgeously set within a 1,000-year-old Islamic palace, therestaurant mixes expertly-cooked Toledano classics (partridge,venison, suckling pig) with Asian-influenced seafood (tuna withthree textures). (Calle Soledad 2, 0034 925 22 53 75;www.restauranteelpalacete.com; Daily 1.30–4p.m.,8.30–11.30p.m., closed Sun/Mon evening)

GETTING THERE

Fly to Madrid’s Baraja airport and then take a taxi or themetro to Atocha station for trains to Toledo (35 minutes), sin-gle from 8.50 Euro. If driving from the airport, Toledo is 50miles. Unless you have nerves of steel, avoid driving into thenarrow streets of the walled old town; large car parks arearranged around the historic centre.

DID YOU KNOW?

Don Quixote author Miguel de Cervantes regularly visited Toledo and in the legendary novelcredits the discovery of his character’s history to Arabic texts he sees here.

performanceb y C A R O L B E S L E R

The Bentley Continental Supersports car is the fastestand most powerful car ever made by the British manu-facturer, and holder of the world ice speed record. Theworld ice speed record was set in 2011 by Finland’s four-time world rally champion Juha Kankkunen in a BentleyContinental Supersports convertible. Driving the all-wheel drive, biofuel-powered 6-liter, 12-cylinderContinental Supersports convertible on the perilousfrozen Baltic Sea, off the coast of Finland, Kankkunenachieved a speed of 205.48 mph (330.695 km/h). Hebeat his own ice speed record of 199.83 mph (321.6km/h) set in 2007 in the Bentley Continental GT. TheSupersports Ice Speed Record convertible model is limit-ed to just 100 cars worldwide. (Check it out on Youtube:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qwe96Knr6-Y).

The Breitling For Bentley Supersports Chronograph isa dashing tribute to this world-class super-car that isequally built for outstanding feats and performances. Thesuper-chronograph watch has a “dashboard-style” dial,inspired by the Bentley and enlivened by blue, orange orwhite-ringed counters and inner bezels that match thecolors on the rims of the Bentley Supersports cars. Thebezel is adorned with the knurled motif typical of Bentleydashboard controls.A super-watch

tribute to a worldrecord-settingsuper-car



The watch is equipped with an original and extremely practical

central 60-minute counter, a 1/4th-second chronograph, a 12-hour

totalizer and a calendar function. The rotating bezel activates a

variable tachometer (circular slide rule), an exclusive Breitling fea-

ture that measures average speed no matter what the elapsed time,

distance covered or speed.

The case is steel with a screw-locked crown, and the watch is

water resistant to 100 meters. The strap is Barenia leather, Bentley

leather, crocodile leather or rubber.

Breitling has also launched a watch in tribute to the Bentley

GMT V8. The signature feature of the Breitling for Bentley GMT

Chronograph is the mobile inner city bezel, distinguished by a

metallic red color that contrasts with the black dial. This vivid

touch of color reflects the red background of the Bentley emblem

that sets the Continental GT V8 model apart from other models

by the British carmaker. The watch features an ingenious multiple

time zone display system. A red triangular-tipped additional hour

hand marks the 24 hour index. For setting, the pushpiece housed

in the left side of the case serves to move this hand forward in one-

hour increments in order to display the second time zone — while

distinguishing between day and night hours.

The watch is also a 30-second chronograph, with a sweep sec-

onds hand making one full turn of the dial in half a minute, thus

enabling readings accurate to the nearest 1/8th of a second. The

movement is the Breitling caliber 47B, officially chronometer-cer-

tified by the COSC. It is water resistant to 100 meters.

Inside its sporty, elegant case, the Breitling for BentleySupersports limited series houses a selfwinding chrono-graph movement made by Breitling, the Caliber 26B. It ischronometer-certified by COSC (the Swiss OfficialChronometer Testing Institute), which means it is highlyaccurate and reliable.

style



going growth

One might say that those who donot remember the original MiamiVice television show (1984–1990)are doomed to repeat it. Thatmarked the previous time stubbletrimmers — an appliance calibrat-ed midway between a beard trim-mer and a regular electric razor —appeared on the market. Then, stal-wart Don Johnson’s roughly tex-tured jaw was all the rage; now wehave His Royal Scruffiness, HughLaurie of House (2004–2012) tothank for reanimating the trendtowards facial hirsutism.

Tempted

to try out

today’s

stubble look?

Here are

some bristly

pros and

cons to

ponder.

Atelier Gardeur…Creating great trousers and jeans.

It’s an art.

style


It seems not anaward showgoes by thesedays withoutthe majority ofmale celebssporting a three-day growth. Arecent universitystudy has indi-cated that mostwomen find thelook sexy — atleast on malecelebs. So,should you orshouldn’t you?Allow us topose the argu-ments for andagainst:

Like we justsaid, mostwomen saidthey find thelook sexy.’Nuffsaid.

Most womendon’t appear tobe thinkingabout theunsexy, disfigur-ing effects ofmorning-afterbeard burn onthemselves.

You don’t have to shaveso often. In fact, one ofthe best ways of doingdesigner stubble is toonly shave every threeto five days.

You do have to shave asoften — and maybeeven more. Those proneto five o’clock shadowwill just find themselvesshaving the night before,as opposed to the morn-ing of. Then there’s thetricky business of shav-ing away stray cheekhairs and carefully fad-ing out the neck hairs sothey don’t meet up withthe chest hairs in onebig, awkward, Chia Petmoment.

Slight stubble, especially ifit’s dark, tends to accentuatethe attractive planes andangles of the male face.

If your normal growth ispatchy, your beard is a weirdcolor, or you’ve a moon facewithout any planes andangles, then you cannot —repeat, cannot — rock thislook.

All the guys are doing it.

Remember big sideburns? Mullets? Goatees?If all the guys were jumping off a bridge…

greatest hitsfall/winter 2012

Trend overview runs the gamut from classic suits to deluxe casualwear

trend



Color Wheel

White and camel pro-vide the main contrast

to predominatelyblack-shaded dress and

casual clothing, butfurnishings can alsocome in such dark,dense reds as bur-

gundy, oxblood, andrust, and occasionally

flare up into a brighterhue — cobalt blue,

teal, orange or tomatored — for a little visual

relief.

Knit Picks

High-rising turtlenecksare being shown with

everything from athree-piece suit to

dark indigo jeanstopped by an outer-

wear piece or easy-fit-ting sportscoat. Incasual attire, fine-

gauge knits allow formultiple layering; con-

versely, thick-cabledsweaters and cushy

cashmere or mohairknits provide enoughwarmth enough to be

worn on their own.

The Sartorial Look

Classic suits — British in background,Italian in lightweight fabric and stream-

lined tailoring — are the crux of thisseason’s overall appearance. Black suitslead the way, with charcoal gray, quiet

glen plaids, and pencil stripes followingat a discreet distance. The slim silhou-

ette, built close to the body, with a relatively high button stance and

narrowed lapels, is now firmlyentrenched in our wardrobes and will

prove this decade’s defining mode.Narrower dress shirt collars and ties

go under this; well-tailored overcoats go on top.

Photos Courtesy of Ravazzolo

LBM MR JULY OK.indd 1 13-06-2012 16:27:24

trend


Going Downton

Belted Norfolksportcoats with

envelope or flap-and-patch pockets

in country plaidsand gun club

checks, grey flan-nels, lapelled vests,cuffs on narrowed

trousers legs, shawl-collar cardigans, vel-

vet jackets, fur-col-lared overcoats —there’s a definite

Edwardian sensibili-ty to this season,

directly attributableto the popularity ofthe British TV show

Downton Abbey,which is set in the

same era. A nifty lit-tle offshoot of this

trend is the fact thatrubber galoshes canbe viewed as period

pieces along thesame lines, so you

now can stay instyle while your feetstay dry this season.

The Boys of Winter

Various takes (winterized, of course) on our oldbuddy, the baseball jacket, appeared on this sea-son’s runways, along with several raglan-sleevedknit shirts suspiciously reminiscent of baseballjerseys. Then there were all those baseball capsmade from dark-shaded suede or even suitingfabrics. As designer pitches go, this one hashome run written all over it.

Photos Courtesy of Ravazzolo

The Outer Limits

There’s plenty of toppers on tap for fall/winter:quilted down parkas and puffer vests, blackleather motorcycle jackets, pea coats, shorttrenches and duffle coats. Yet the real money maywell be on the full-length greatcoat of British mil-itary renown — a great way to indulge one’sdesire for double-breasted buttoning during thistime when single-breasted suits are holding sway.

james bond


the real james bond?

007Interview with

i n t e r v i e w b y S T E V E N W E I N T R A U B

D A N I E L C R A I G

On Sunday afternoon, in Istanbul, Turkey, I got my interview with Daniel Craig and producer Barbara Broccoli.Since Craig had to get back to set to film part of an action sequence on Skyfall, we had limited time. However, eventhough Craig and Broccoli were guarded about giving away any of the twists and turns, they still talked about thestrength of the script, the humor, how the upcoming teaser trailer only scratches the surface of what Skyfall is about,the stunts, invoking the wit of Ian Fleming, whether Bond 24 is really coming in 2014, and a lot more.

Some of us saw the teaser trailer at CinemaCon last week and it has a great dark, serious tone. Can you talk about what you guys are going for with Skyfall?

Daniel Craig: The teaser’s just that, a teaser. It represents a very, very small part of the movie. I mean, you know thescore. When you’re making a teaser, you want to show part of the movie and leave a lot to be desired, and I personal-ly think we have. I think what the teaser’s done incredibly well is show that there’s an awful lot of content in themovie, but [the footage shown in the teaser] is nothing.

Barbara Broccoli: It’s a lot of fun too. A lot of fun.


james bond

Given that this is the James Bond anniversary, and because you’reshooting the film in Istanbul where two Bond films have been donebefore — From Russia with Love and The World Is Not Enough— I was wondering whether any part of it’s an homage to the pastBond movies?

Craig: It’s not directly that, but certainly there were conversationswith all of us, especially with Sam [Mendes]. Sam felt very strong-ly that by making the best Bond movie we can, we’re gonna lookback a little. You kind of have to do that. But this has an individ-ual look to it, something that I don’t think you’ve seen in anyother Bond movie.

Broccoli: It feels like classic Bond, doesn’t it?

Craig: I think so, yes.

Broccoli: It feels like we’re making a very classic Bond, and it’sgreat to be back here in Istanbul. 49 years ago today, actually, theywere shooting here. So it’s a wonderful way to celebrate it.

In Casino Royale you gave Bond a very different personality. Where will you take him now?

Craig: Go-go dancer.

(laughter)

Craig: It’s something I’ve not done myself before, and I thoughtit’s about time that I showed that part of myself to the world(laughs). Um, wait and see. I mean, really. I’m not going to say thatwe’ve done something incredibly different here; we’ve donesomething, I think, that has quality about it. And, like I said, we’vegot a teaser that has a great story that we want to tell. But it is akind of wait-and-see situation.

There has been some talk a bit about austerity and there was something about Bognor Regis —

Broccoli: Oh come on, we’re here in Istanbul!

Craig: No, let’s talk about Bognor Regis, please. There’s nothingwrong with Bognor Regis, by the way.

Well I was wondering where you sort of cut back and where you splashed out?

Broccoli: It’s all on the screen. All the money’s on the screen.

Craig: It’s all on the screen. There’s nothing tight about whatwe’ve done; it’s just that we’ve spent the money in the rightplaces. We’re very fortunate to be able to make movies like this; Imean, not a lot of people get the chance to do it. We want to givean audience as much value for money as we possibly can, andthat’s been sort of the key here for all of us.

Sam Mendes has said he would have advised you against taking the Bond role back in the day.

Craig: He regrets saying that (laughs).

Broccoli: How the worm has turned.

Craig: Well, not even that, it’s just as soon as he said it in theinterview, I said, “You really wanna get involved with this?” Sorry,please go on.

Daniel Craig and co-stars Bérénice Marlohe,Javier Bardem, and Naomi Harris front the latestpromotional image for Skyfall, which is the 23rd

installment in the long-running spy franchise.


james bond

Are you happy to work with him on this?

Craig: Very much, very much. It’s been a great relief for me towork with someone like Sam on a movie like this, because there’san awful lot of pressures from the outside world on a movie likethis, but we just crack on with making the best film we can. It’s ajoy to do.

Can you talk a bit about the humor of the movie?

Craig: The humor’s not something that we’ve tried to do, it’s justthat we’ve got a great script. Humor comes out, I think, more ofsituation than it does out of gag lines. We’ve got some very funnylines in the movie, but who knows how an audience may findthem. I remember with Casino, one of the lines we didn’t thinkwas particularly funny, the audience really got a hold of. So I’m justexcited about showing it to an audience and showing the dialoguewe have and the situations we have, and to see how they react toit. I think there’s some very funny moments. I have a very darkhumor though.

Broccoli: Well so did Fleming. It’s very Fleming-y. It has the wit of Ian Fleming. The acerbic wit.

One of the things I’ve loved about the Bond movies as opposed to otherHollywood action movies is that it’s all about style. Is there a specificstunt from Skyfall that you’re looking forward to realize?

Craig: Yes. There’s a lot, there’s a ton of stuff that we’ve done andstyle has been the key. Not only just how stunts are created andhow they’re designed. We have Gary Powell again, who’s designingthe stunts, and Alexander Wit, who’s shooting second-unit on this,who’s an incredibly skilled director but has a real eye for what’sexciting. But style has been really a key through design — produc-tion design, costume design, some of the casting.

Broccoli: Oh absolutely, and Roger Deakins who’s the greatest[director of photography] ever.

Does it feel different than the last two films?

Craig: Yeah, definitely.

In what way?

Craig: In every way, really. We’ve got a different team together;some old faces are still here. Again, talking about how it’s such arare thing to make movies like this, and to be given the chance youhave to give it all you’ve got. Now I’m at the stage where all I wantto do is start showing this to an audience to get that reaction, to seehow they react to it. I think it’s quite special, what we’ve got.Here’s hoping. Who knows?

You took two movies to learn Bond…

Craig: Did I? Take it back! (laughs) I’m still learning.

Are you in a comfort zone now?

Craig: No, not at all. I’d hate to feel in a comfort zone while I wasworking. That’s not the way I like to do things. You want to be pres-surized and you want to be challenged every day, and we are forsure on this movie challenged every day with something. It’s just arelief for us; we’ve been filming at Pinewood in sort of fairly darklocations for the past however long it’s been, so it’s great to cometo Turkey and film in some amazing, beautiful locations. It feels likean old fashioned Bond movie.

Last week Rory, the president of distribution of Sony, announced Bond 24 for I guess late 2014…

Broccoli: He was getting a little overexcited (laughs). We’re justactually focusing on this movie. One hopes that in the future we’llbe announcing other films, but no one’s officially announced it.

Craig: No one’s announced anything. He got a little ahead of him-self (laughs). It’s very nice that he has the confidence to be able todo that, but we haven’t finished this movie yet.

There’s been a lot of talk abouthow this has personal stakesfor Bond. What does thatrequire from you in your per-formance that maybe makes itmore personal than the previ-ous things we’ve seen?

Craig: I don’t think personal-ly; it’s about the characterand how he lives the experi-ence. Again, just harkeningback to the script, through alot of hard work I thinkwe’ve kind of got together ascript that has a really strongbedrock of a story and some-thing for all the characters —of which there are a lot inthis movie — to sort of expe-rience. There are very per-sonal stories in it, and hope-fully the audience will getaffected by them and movedby them. It’s just a good act-ing job to do.

J.PA U L S K I N C A R E F O R M E N

sophisticated simplicity

A S U P E R I O R S H AV I N G E X P E R I E N C E I N F O U R S I M P L E S T E P S

F I N I S H E D W I T H A C O O L B O D Y C L E A N S E

S C R U B

W A S H

G L I D E

I C E

G U A R D

Need s ty le adv ice?

twi t te r. com/cu l tu ra ta

footwear

sole rebelThe Lace-up

It is most fitting in these revolutionary times that our number one dress shoeremains the Oxford. To us, the Oxford is a simple shoe — plain in styling (unlikeits descendent, the brogue, with its fancy-shmancy perforated medallion designs)and, therefore, our most business-like footwear option. But to Oxonians, as studentsat the British university are known, this shoe represented a sartorial Arab Spring.

At the turn of the 18th century, students rebelled against the concept of havingto don knee-length or ankle-high boots on a daily basis, and took to wearing low-cut shoes that laced straight across the arch. The fad for “Oxfords,” as this shoe cameto be called, spread across UK campuses and even made its way into some gentle-men’s wardrobes, although it would take another hundred-odd years and a worldwar before the style was finally deemed to be a shoe-in.

A century after that point, we now consider the Oxford the grand-old-daddy ofall dress shoes, appropriate for use even with formalwear. So how could it not bethe choice of the world’s top designers, during this season of elegant suitings andclassic accoutrements?

The Strap-overFrom time to time, you might want to stuff your tootsies into something a little

different — but no less acceptable than an Oxford. Consider the monk-strap, aplain-toed shoe with a single strap-and-buckle closure that crosses over the vampand does up on the outside of the arch.

Developed in Europe in the 1930s, this shoe still carries with it a whiff ofContinental elegance. It also has the advantage over other footwear in appearing atonce dressy and casual. Just as today’s designers have done, choose either a black orbrown calfskin model, or one in chocolate brown suede. And do try to avoid any ofthe clunkier double-buckled models you might run across.

The Slip-onHands down, this fall’s most popular footwear is the loafer. It comes a bit thick-

er of sole than usual — the better to balance today’s slim suits. Although it mightcome decorated as well with a tassel or kiltie fringe, may we suggest you stick tothe classic penny loafer style?

First developed in Norway in the mid-1930s, the casual slip-on shoe built alongmoccasin lines was quickly adopted by both the Spaulding and the G. H. Bass com-panies of New England. To Spaulding goes the honor of nicknaming the look“loafers,” after Esquire magazine ran a picture of Norwegian farmers wearing theshoes while standing next to a cow-loafing shed, a pasture shelter built to protectlivestock in harsh weather. But G. H. Bass, who named their version “Weejuns” — amash-up of “Norwegian” and “Injun” — took the prize by adding a strip of leatherwith a decorative cut-out in its center.

In the mid-1950s, American youth, most notably Rebel without a Cause’s JamesDean, discovered that loafers looked way cool when worn with jeans. By that timetoo, the Ivy League look was raging, and students in the North-east literally madethese shoes their own by inserting a copper penny into the cut-out slit. Thus, thepenny loafer was born. Not perhaps as revolutionary an act as that perpetrated bytheir confreres at Oxford, but still a part of footwear history that we can proudlyput on today.



theof a

Photos Courtesy of Hugo Boss and Brax

duty



carried awayThe Latest in Leather Goods Offers a Mixed Bag

Two factors are at play today, pushing the direction of leather

goods in opposite directions.

The first is the airline industry’s new — and often confusing —

restrictions on carry-on hand-luggage. Depending on which air-

line you’ve booked, your in-flight bag at most has an approximate

weight allowance of 50 pounds and a size allowance of 22 inches

long, 18 inches high, and 10 inches deep. Anything larger or heav-

ier will either be subject to a hefty surcharge or tossed into the

general baggage compartment — the true business traveler’s

worst nightmare.

As a consequence, durable leather goods are now being built to

accommodate both regular day-to-day usage and occasional flying

requirements. You’ll notice that they’re most often soft-sided, the

better to squeeze into tight spaces; dual-handled for easier weight

distribution; and feature a heavy-duty zip closure, for ease of

access. In fact, you’ll notice that what they most resemble is a

mini-suitcase. Because that’s what they essentially are: a case

capable of holding lawyer’s briefs or designer briefs, or both.

The second stimulus in bag design is the swift rise in small,

computerized notebooks and pads. Here, reasoning revolves

around a single, simple question: Why lug about a hefty attaché

or briefcase when all you need to hold your work is a slim leather

pouch? Present-day portfolios are therefore often as thin as the

electronics they carry, almost reaching women’s clutch-purse

dimensions. Maybe to offset this visual association, many are

made from he-manly stamped crocodile leather burnished to a

high gleam.

Of course, if you don’t want to tote a small suitcase over your

shoulder or cup a clutch-like bag in one hand, there are many

other options available at the moment. The “shopping bag,” for

instance, which looks just as it sounds but is more elegantly pre-

sented in leather or a Burberry plaid, and features dual handles

and metalled hardware. The carry-all, made from similar materi-

als, remains a popular choice. Or you might elect to go with an

upgraded knapsack, set with a side handle for alternate con-

veyance and perhaps fabricated from kicky dyed leather in a hip

color such as pea green or tangerine orange.

You may, indeed, take your pick of the leather goods out there,

because this season no one trend stands out. An unusual fashion

situation, admittedly, so try to take advantage of it while it lasts.

future



WAISTCOAT, WANT NOTVests are everywhere this season —

from dressy three-piece suits to casual outerwear puffers

Although there were several applicants for the position, this lucrative seasonal job has been filled by an expe-

rienced garment with a long CV of sartorial credits. The waistcoat (also known as a weskit in Brit-speak) has

gone to work on our new fall/winter wardrobes, popping up all over the place in same-fabric three-piece suits,

self-fabric suit companion pieces, and as a stand-alone garment. Its associates, the knitted vest and the quilted

puffer vest, perform similar sleeveless duties in both the casual-dress and outerwear departments.

But it is to the tailored vest that we look for true professional aplomb. Its suiting material signifies business;

yet worn on its own without a jacket, with just a dress shirt and tie, it also possesses an approachable-ness

unmatched by most office attire — ideal, too, for giving at least the appearance of getting down to brass tacks.

Photo Courtesy of Ravazzolo

DIONS T Y L E • Q UA L I T Y • S E R V I C E

w w w . d i o n n e c k w e a r . c o m


And that elegance is oftenenhanced these days with theaddition of lapels on the vest,another new-old feature of ourcurrent Edwardian era obsessionthat’s been fueled by the popularBritish TV series Downton Abbey.Indeed, these lapeled waistcoatslook so classically old-fashioned,one experiences a sense of disap-pointment if one does not see awatch chain and fob strungacross its front. I mean to say,doesn’t one?

The height of traditionalism maywell be the double-breasted lapeled

vest, which too has its place intoday’s wardrobes. It, in fact,

performs a very valuable dual role,not just gussying up our dressier

attire, but acting as a kind of secretagent, testing the waters as it were

for its sleeved confrere, the double-breasted jacket, gauging whether

there’s enough interest out there tocreate a brand-new clothing vacancy.

Slip a suit jacket over top and it sud-denly becomes an elegant finishingtouch to a dress ensemble, not only

visually slimming the figure but literal-ly raising the vee-shaped bar at the

chest, adding to the overall narrowedsilhouette by reducing the amount of

shirt and tie being shown.

Photo Courtesy of Stenstroms

Pho

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Photo Courtesy of Brax

Dacio is available in blackpatent, brown suede, grey

suede and wine suede.

the clotherie fall 2012 magazine

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