the circuit previewing catwalks in auckland, new york,lucire.com/2004a/1017ll1.pdf · natalia...
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true style
november 2004
Helen TalbotThe creative
spirit of the New Zealand designer
Brushingup on beauty Good foundations
That girl atTi\any’s
Lightly she goes
Red hotFrom hair to accessoriesand everything
in between
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The global fashion magazine | www.lucire.com
The circuitPreviewing catwalks in Auckland, New York, San Francisco, Stockholm and Melbourne
The Maldives
Six senses in paradise
Getting scent-sualNew season,new scents
TahitiWin a tripin this issue
NZ$
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2 lucire november 2004T H E N E W WO M E N ’ S F R A G R A N C E BY R A L P H L AU R E N
Ralph LaurenBlue
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RAL9388_PoloBlue_LUCINE 25/8/04 10:57 AM Page 1
http://lucire.com 3T H E N E W WO M E N ’ S F R A G R A N C E BY R A L P H L AU R E N
Ralph LaurenBlue
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RAL9388_PoloBlue_LUCINE 25/8/04 10:57 AM Page 1
4 lucire november 2004Natalia Vodianova wears Cherry Sorbet n°51.
6 NEW luscious colours for delicious,lickable, ultra shiny lips.
BECAUSE YOU’RE WORTH IT.
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http://lucire.com 5Natalia Vodianova wears Cherry Sorbet n°51.
6 NEW luscious colours for delicious,lickable, ultra shiny lips.
BECAUSE YOU’RE WORTH IT.
TRANSPARENT LUSCIOUS SHINEGLAMOUROUS LIP-PLUMPING EFFECT
NEW
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26111_LOR9192Glamshine_Sorbet 3/9/04 3:28 PM Page 1
6 lucire november 2004
8 lucire november 2004
76 | Morning in America
Cnn anchorwoman Soledad O’Brien on family, career and balance by Jack Yan
november 2004OFFICIAL MEDIA PARTNER
56 | A beautiful life
The life of make-up artist Kevyn Aucoin, taken before his time by Grace Willetts and Stevie Wilson
54 | Entering a Blue period
Behind the scenes of the new Ralph Lauren Blue fragrance: an interview with Andrea Robinson by Catherine Rigod
80 | True style
Formal style need not mean a same-again ball gown Photographed by Frank Forgione
86 | That girl at Ti\any’s
Go lightly into springPhotographed by Amanda Dorcil
40 | The ascent of Helen Talbot
What drives the creativity of Helen Talbot and what she has in store for autumn–winter 2005 by Jack Yan
Photographed by Sam Crawford
92 | Halo
Glamour comes in many formsPhotographed by Adam Flipp
100 | Six senses in paradise
Another fantasy is fulfilled in the Maldives by Nicola Brockie
au couverture: Denise Vasi (courtesy Major) wears a Giorgio Armani tuxedo, make-up by Jessica Tarazi, hair by Christine Roberts and photographed by Frank Forgione. See p. 80. above: Louise Tulloch in Helen Talbot autumn–winter 2005, a collection showing to the trade at Air New Zealand Fashion Week in mid-October. See p. 40.
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november 2004
108
48 | Well Red Redheads are turning heads by Ashlea Tate and
Stevie Wilson
Photographed by Yolanda Perez/abc
50 | Making Scents The new season in fragrances by Stevie Wilson
58 | Brushing up on Beauty We speak with make-up artist Donna Carreiro on the best make-up brushes by Stevie Wilson
Photographed by Joma García i Gisbert
60 | Poring Details Dealing with acne breakouts—when you’re not a teen by Bettijo B. Hirschi
64 | You’ve Got Nail Reward those oft-neglected servants with a manicure or pedicure by Sarah Priddy and Nicola Brockie
Photographed by Douglas Rimington and
Joma García i Gisbert
68 | Awfully Rouge Lipstick’s glitz and glamour are back by Ashlea Tate
70 | Towards the Cure Sup-porting Breast Cancer Awareness Month by Sheri Forrest
72 | Beauty Cabinet Must-haves for November
74 | All Aboard Scrubs and cleansers for men by Phillip D. Johnson and Stevie Wilson
Volante
98 | Greater Causes Holiday-ing with meaning by Jack Yan
Living
104 | Life/Style Wearable mu-sic, Mercedes-Benz slk, Audi a6 by Phillip D. Johnson and Jack Yan
108 | The Scene Barcelona weddings, sterling silver, recov-ered fashion
111 | Gran Canon What do Christina Aguilera and Hilda Ogden have in common? by Susan Kelly
112 | Living a Dream A design-er’s story on giving it all up for a chance at the big time by Brad Batory
Regular sections
15 | Letter from the Edi-tor-in-chief by Nicola Brockie
113 | On the Web
116 | Subscribe Be in to win a trip to Tahiti
119 | Market-place
122 | Report from the Real World Happenings with our readers at Lucire StyleTalk
98
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18 | Good Guys Finish First Decency makes fashion go around by Jack Yan
20 | Trends This month: art, Hollywood glam, hot and spicy and fiery by Robyn Merritt
Photographed by Douglas Rimington
24 | Rediscovered Red Red is definitely in the air this month by Stevie Wilson, Phillip D. Johnson,
Nicola Brockie and Jack Yan
30 | Back to the Future Our exclusive preview of New York Fashion Week and what designers have in store by Phillip D. Johnson
34 | City of Sales New Zea-land prepares for its Fashion Week—our sneak peek at design-ers’ thoughts by Jack Yan
36 | Golden Gate’s Fashion Flare The us’s artistic capital should put out a memorable fash-ion week by Catherine Rigod
38 | All over the World De-signers in Australia and Sweden share their next-season thoughts by Jack Yan
Beauty
46 | Time for Re-creation Creating the new Sarah Dickens, with Jean Jacques, Lancôme and L’Oréal Professionnel by Jack Yan
Photographed by Douglas Rimington
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12 lucire november 2004
Nicola BrockieEditor-in-chief
http://lucire.com
Stevie Wilson Beauty Editor
Simone KnolEditor-in-chief, web edition
Richard SpiegelNew York Editor
Phillip D. JohnsonFeatures’ Editor
Catherine RigodSan Francisco Editor
Devin ColvinEntertainment Editor
Susan KellyMontréal Editor
Alice Goulter Senior Correspondent, Melbourne
M. K. JohnsonDirector of Beauty—Special Projects
Laura Ming-WongCreative Director
Frank Forgione (New York)Marcus Weight/Pixel (Wellington)Melissa Collow/Pixel (Wellington)
Stratton Heron (Auckland)Cheryl Gorski/www.cherylgorski.com
(New York)Joma García i Gisbert (Barcelona)
David Lee (Los Angeles)Sam Crawford (Auckland)
Jason MoonProducer and Director, New Zealand
Edward Uken Editor and Director, California
Management TeamJack Yan
Founding Publisher
Lisa TardrewDirector of Advertising
Ann FryerAssociate Publisher
Nigel DunnSenior Partner, Web Development,
jy&a Media
David PatinAdviser, Paris
Amanda DolheguyDirector, Delineate Ltd.
CorrespondentsDonna Borak (Boston)
Corky Davidov (Special Correspondent)Carolyn Enting (Wellington, Sydney)
Sheri Forrest (Irvine, Calif.)Hedley Galt (Sydney)
Pameladevi Govinda (Travel)Debi Hall (India)
Bettijo B. Hirschi (Alexandria, Va.)Edward Hodges (Wellington)
Annette Holt-Siketa (Melbourne)
Kelly Huang (Chicago)Simona Iulini (Milano)
Meredyth J. Lewis (London)Sally-ann Mo\at (Wellington)
Clare Marshall (Melbourne)Amber Peebles (Auckland)
Rhonda Richford (Studio City, Calif.)Tiago E. Santo (Lisboa)
Ashley Tate (Los Angeles)Grace Willetts (San Francisco Bay Area)
Douglas Rimington (Wellington)Alberto Rodriguez (New York)
Briar Shaw (Auckland)Karl Priston (Queenstown)
Jon Moe (New York)Antony Nobilo (Sydney)Beau Nelson (New York)
Frédéric de la Chapelle (Paris)Jason Hurdle (Wellington)
Elizabeth Wilson Graphic Designer
Lucire tv
Photographic scanning Labtec (Auckland); David Philpott and DAC (Wellington)Printing, New Zealand edition Format
Xerox DocuColor digital printing WCCDistribution, New Zealand edition IMD/Kerry Sutcli\e
Subscriptions Complete Subscriptions Ltd./Paul Dudding
Donna R. Himelfarb us Copy EditorRobyn Merritt Editorial Assistant
Amanda DorcilChief Photographer
Contributing photographers
Stylists, hair and make-upLaura Ming-Wong @ Sweet Chilli
Russell McConnellJessica Tarazi
Christine Roberts
Michael Beel/BuoyWayne Chipperfield
Kristen StewartChérie Stevens
November 2004Vol. 1, No. 3 (3)
Molly NMolly N Shoes
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Epsom, Auckland
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Editorial OfficesSta\ can be contacted at {[email protected] in the {rst instance.
Head bureaupo Box 14-368, 13 Mamari Street, Wellington 6041, New Zealand
Telephone and fax 64 4 387-3213Print edition web site http://lucire.net
Email [email protected]
UKMiss Simone Knol, Editor-in-chief (web), Lucire
Suite 85, 34 Buckingham Palace Road, Belgravia, London sw1w 0rh, EnglandTelephone 44 7876 701-505
New York, New YorkMiss Ann Fryer, Associate Publisher, Lucire
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Telephone 1 212 591-0800Fax 1 212 591-6836
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Telephone 1 415 751-6561 Cellphone 1 415 847-5369
http://lucire.com
Published in New Zealand by Lucire LLC. Colophon: Composed in Lucire Light 9·5/11·5 pt, designed by Jack Yan. Produced by JY&A Fonts. Introductions in Proforma, designed by Petr van
Blokland. House style: Hart’s Rules for Compositors and Readers, published by Oxford University Press. This publication has been proofread by humans, not spellchecked. Lucire is a registered trademark
of Jack Yan & Associates. Copyright ©2004 by Jack Yan & Associates and Lucire LLC. All rights reserved. Visit jya.net for information on your nearest JY&A o|ce in any one of a dozen countries.
Visit lucire.net for licensing information.On newsstands October 4, 2004. Next issue: November 1, 2004. E&OE.
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Tucson, Arizona Mr Devin Colvin, Entertainment Editor,
Lucire1050 N. Rancho del Jefe, #1
Tucson, az 85748Telephone 1 520 245-9191
Fax 1 309 439-9231
Auckland, New Zealand Ms Amanda Dorcil, Chief Photographer,
LucireSuite 7b, 14 Emily Place
AucklandTelephone 64 9 373-7876
Cellphone 64 27 257-3996
Montréal, QuébecMs Susan Kelly, Montréal Editor, Lucire
688 Querbes Avenue Montréal, qc h2v 3w7
Telephone 1 514 270-8621Fax 1 514 879-8914
Christchurch, New ZealandMiss Amanda Dolheguy, Director,
Delineate Ltd.po Box 3262
Level 2, Scales House254 Montréal Street
ChristchurchTelephone 64 3 353-4573Cellphone 64 21 438-645 Email [email protected]
Melbourne, VictoriaMs Alice Goulter and Ms Clare Marshall, Lucire
2/434 Smith StreetCollingwood, vic 3066
Telephone 61 404 257-367
Sydney, New South WalesMs Hedley Galt, 2/95 O’Sullivan Road, Rose Bay, nsw 2029
Telephone 61 414 646-000
Head Advertising BureauMs Lisa Tardrew, Director of Advertising, Lucire
po Box 47-287, Ponsonby, Auckland 1034, New ZealandTelephone 64 21 4-lucire
Fax 64 4 387-3213
AcknowledgementsMajor Models 62 Models Clyne Models United Travel Kilbirnie
Ford Models Ford Motor Company of New Zealand
Lucire targets Carbon Neutral production. Some profits from this magazine are given to Future Forests to attempt to neutralize the amount of carbon dioxide generated during production. For more information, visit www.futureforests.com.
Lucire is the United Nations Environment Programme’sfirst fashion industry partner.
See www.unep.org for more information.
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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
It’s a strange predicament to be in: how do you intro-duce a seven-year-old title that, for most people reading this editorial, is brand-new? In 1997, Lucire began as a web site and became mildly successful: more people have typed in its address than ‘vogue.com’, if you look at the stats at Alexa. It got there by treating New Zealand—and any other country it fea-
tured—as part of a single planet, not individual states were people are separated. Despite a European-sounding name (that’s pronounced ‘loo-cheer’-ay’), that story began on October 20, 1997 in Wellington, New Zealand. This magazine is Kiwi-owned. Its profits stay here and don’t go to some offshore conglomerate, as some of you may have discovered when reading others’ credits’ lists. It’s why it launches in New Zealand first, not overseas where the majority of our web readers are. We also launch here because we believe there’s such a thing as the Well Travelled Girl (the wtg). She is either well travelled or wishes to be; she has an international outlook; she does not see this country as an isolated place but part of a global community. It is to the new-century wtg that Lucire speaks, showing that she is intelligent and, most importantly, limitless. Our name wasn’t intended to mean anything: all we knew at the time was that it wasn’t a swear word in the five languages we checked. It was only later that we discovered the connotations of light or to show off, or, in old Romanian, to reflect. With a first public print issue, it’s a good time to reflect and show off. Not only are we breaking the rule that says a web site can’t become a print magazine (or that Hollywood trilogies can’t be made here), we ap-proach fashion, beauty and travel as we always have: with fun, panache
and style. We’ll tackle the subjects honestly—that’s how we managed to survive all these years and become a credible player in many countries. If we hated a collection, we always say so. And you know we can keep this up, because we’ve done so for nearly a decade with the likes of Stevie Wilson, Phillip D. Johnson, Richard Spiegel, Cathy Rigod and the rest of our global team that founder Jack Yan assembled. There is no snobbery here, because the twenty-first cen-tury isn’t about fake images or broken promises. We’re not trying to impress the industry—only you, our readers. In some cases, you suggested our stories through our web site. All we did was to do our best for you. Each month—that’s right, who’s says that New Zealanders can’t do monthly fashion magazines (or go global, for that matter)?—we’ll bring you your dose of style, whether that’s from a brand-new designer taking a chance to set up after fin-
ishing ’tech, or an established one who’s creating something special. Lucire is a meritocracy. The Beauty department is stocked up and ready to make you feel your best, just as your soul demands, using the same principles. Volante, the travel section, and Life/Style show that there’s more to life than fashion and beauty—and that those things can be accomplished with flair, too. We would like to change the way you think about fashion magazines. Whether you’ve followed us for the last seven years online or this is your first issue, we say, ‘Welcome. It’s a pleasure to be here.’
NZ$9·45 retail price+$3·00 advertising−$4·06 distribution−$3·55 printing−$2·59 salaries−$2·25 promotion−$0·25 auditing−$0·10 Future ForestsProfit: NZ$0·40 to share-holders, investment for future issues, travel, management.
Next issue, on sale November 1, 2004• Lady luxe• Our people: Lindah
Le Pou of dencium compri
• The spring–summer 2005 circuit
• The global fashion shopper
• The SugarBaby creators
• Men’s fragrances, by Phillip D. Johnson
• Volante: New York, with Pameladevi Govinda
Prospective contents are subject to change without public notice.
Nicola Brockie is editor-in-chief of Lucire.
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16 lucire november 2004
THIS MONTH CONTRIBUTORS
We still don’t know how Stevie Wilson manages to juggle this magazine’s contributions, inter-views, chasing up photographers and still have time to brainstorm, but we’re grateful that she owns a time machine that slows down
the seconds in each day. Either that or her fit-ness regimen and tennis-playing have her body working more efficiently than everyone else’s. Holding an ma, Stevie has written for Lucire since 2000 and was promoted to beauty editor in 2002. Next month, she takes on the role of our editor-at-large. She lives in Long Beach, Calif. with her husband and daughter.
Phillip D. Johnson was born in Jamaica and migrated to the United States in 1982. He served in the us Navy from 1985 to 1989 and was honour-ably discharged in 1993. Before becoming a fashion writer, Mr Johnson was the Managing
Editor of Metroline, a gay and lesbian bimonthly news magazine. A New York fashion show veteran since the Bryant Park tents came into existence, Phillip began writing for Lucire in 2001 and serves as our features’ editor.
Donna R. Himelfarb has written on every conceivable topic from astronomy, medicine and political science to food, beauty and fashion. From her home in upstate New York, she main-tains contacts around the world, while savouring the intimacy and tranquillity of small-town village life. As a flower child growing up in Washington, dc, her wardrobe consisted of well-worn jeans and used army jackets. Today, friends count on her to amaze and amuse them with her eclectic collection of whimsical and classic clothing and accessories.
Jessica Tarazi lives in New York. As a teen, Jessica recruited her sisters as “models” to make up, dress up, pose and shoot Polaroids. While studing art history, she worked at a wig shop with clients like Cher, ysl, Stephen Sprouse and countless supermodels. During that time, Jessica did an advertisement which featured in a few issues of Details, along with some runway shows. She realized that she had to be a make-up artist when she would look at ordinary people and see the potential which they could not. Jessica currently works full-time as a freelance make-up artist and travels the globe for interesting projects.
Catherine Rigod joined Lucire in 2000 and was promoted to San Francisco editor in 2004. Formerly with the Gap, she leads our fashion coverage from San Francisco and has provided Lucire its Los Angeles Fashion Week coverage since the event began.
Amanda Dorcil, Lucire’s chief photographer, was behind the most acclaimed editorial in our May issue, ‘Land Girls’. The former New York model and 2003 Metro Young Photographer of the Year brings her talents to one shoot in this issue. Based in Auckland, New Zealand, Amanda accommodates her work for Lucire with profes-sional photography in a frantic schedule.
Frank Forgione has taken photographs and played musical instruments for as long as he can remember. He had never considered making photography his livelihood; but at one point he seriously contemplated a career as a professional guitarist. Despite his artistic talents, he chose to pursue a career in finance. Earlier this year, he left a lucrative position as a senior trader at one of the world’s largest financial institutions to pursue photography fulltime.
Montréal-based astrologer Susan Kelly writes Lucire’s sassy, savvy horoscope page with the strong, fashion-conscious sensibilities of a Leo. She’s also a fashion
writer—and our Montréal editor. Which may explain why she has the most stylish and style-conscious horoscope going. Kelly has been reading the stars of the fashionable and wan-nabe for years and has written for such haute publications as Montréal Fashion, Definiti, Chic and Elm Street. Kelly also offers consultations and private instruction in astrology and chairs Astrology Montréal. She’s also the author of an ebook on setting personal style using astrology (available at Booklocker.com).
Grace Willetts is a freelance writer who has published articles, columns, stories, and poems with numerous international publications, includ-ing the journals of the University of New Zealand and Appalachian Arts, and a uc Berkeley news magazine. She lives in the San Francisco area with her son, husband, and two dogs.
Sheri Forrest is a freelance correspondent from California. As a former make-up artist based in Los Angeles, she worked in film, photography and theatre. She has contributed articles to print and web publications, including Make-Up Art-ist Magazine, Privilege Magazine, The Beauty Newsletter and Beauty Buzz.
Richard Spiegel is New York editor of Lucire and has been instrumental in getting the maga-zine’s new-season coverage there into its current form. Based in Manhattan, his connection with the magazine goes back to mid-1998. Richard began Lucire’s New York Fashion Week cover-age for the fall 1999 season. He and Phillip D. Johnson recently commented on Lucire’s nyfw coverage on Business Talk Radio.
From travel tips to original commentary, Ashlea Tate has covered a variety of topics throughout her writing career for Daily Trojan, Tana’s Habitat and Five Star Reviews. A member of Lambda Pi Eta, Tate recently graduated from the University of Southern California with a ba in print journal-ism and Spanish.
Jack Yan started Lucire in 1997, when it was released as a web site serving out of New York. His love of fashion came from his back-ground as a graphic design-er. Aside from fashion, he is a regular international speaker, a Medinge Group think-tank member, a well known typeface de-signer and an author of two books.
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