textiles an overview
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TextilesTextilesAn Overview
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y Textile Fibers and Their characteristics
y Fabric Construction
y
Textile Testing
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Where do we use textiles? Where do we use textiles?
HOUSEHOLD� Clothes
� Bags and baskets.
� Carpet`s
� Upholstery
� Drapery
� Window shades� Towels
� Mosquito nets
� Handkercheifs
� Rags
� Covering for tables, beds, and other flat surfaces
� Art
y In the workplace, they are used in industrial and scientific processes suchas filtering.
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MISCELLANEOUS
� Backpacks
� Tents
� Nets
� Flags,
� Transportation devices such as balloons, kites, sails, and parachutes,.
� Seat Covers for cars and other vehicles
� Soft toys
Textiles used for industrial purposes, and chosen for characteristics other than theirappearance, are commonly referred to as technical textiles.
Technical textiles include textile structures for
� automotive applications,
� medical textiles (e.g. implants, sutures),� geotextiles (reinforcement of embankments),
� agrotextiles (textiles for crop protection),
� protective clothing (e.g. against heat and radiation for fire fighter clothing, againstmolten metals for welders, stab protection, and bullet proof vests).
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What is a textile?What is a textile?
y
A textile or cloth is a flexible material consisting of a network of natural or artificial fibres often referred to as thread or yarn.
y Yarn spinning of fibres, to produce long strands.
y Textiles weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting, or pressing fibres
together (felt).
y The words f abric and cloth synonyms for textile.
Fiber Yarn Fabric
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Textile
f ilament staple
Yarn
Fabrics Fabrics
Woven Knitted Braided Lace & Knit Felt Non wovens
Fibers(Thin, hair-like strands that are the basic units used
to make textile products)
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Classif ication of f ibresClassif ication of f ibres
Natural Manmade ( artificial fibres)
Animal Vegetable Mineral
�Cotton(Seed)
�Jute (Bast)
�Linen(bast)�Hemp(Bast)
�Ramie( Bast)
�Sisal( Leaf)
�Coir(Fruit)
�Silk ( filament)
� Wool
�Hair f ibresMohair
Cashmere
Alpaca
Horse
Rabbit
�Gold
�Silver
�Asbestos
Organic Inorganic
Nylon
Polyester
Acrylic
Natural Synthetic
Rayon
Acetate
Triacetate
Glass
Metallic
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Diff erent type of f abric used in interior Diff erent type of f abric used in interior
design decorationdesign decoration
y Today artificial and synthetic fabric is
more common than natural which is
otherwise expensive in compare to
former.
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Natural f abricNatural f abric
y Natural fiber ²obtained from nature
y More durable, soft, luxurious and resilient.
y
E.g linen, cotton, silk, hemp, jute, wool, andspecial animal fibers like cashmere,
mohair, camelhair etc..
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CottonCotton
y Obtained from cotton plant.
y Advantages
tough and stands up well towear and laundering.
cool fibre that breathes welland dries relatively quickly.
y Disadvantage- tendency towrinkle.
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zeospot.com
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WoolWool
y Obtained from sheep( mainly)
y Advantages ²
tough, durable, resilient animalfiber.
can be easily dyed dyesoft with a luxurious look and
feel.
y Disadvantage ²
delicate and expensive when taken
from goats, camel, alpaca andllama and so these types of woolare often mixed with sheep·swool
Fine, medium,and long wool
http://www.sheep101.info/201/woolmark
eting.html
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www.stylehive.com
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design4interior.com
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LinenLinen
y Obtained from the flaxplant.
y Advantagesprovides tough yarn
moth resistant andhardwearing.
easily washable
y Disadvantage
creases easily
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decorationsmilleniuminteriordesign.blogspot.com
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decoration.net
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arhdecor.com
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decorpad.com
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Jute Jute
�Obtained from stem of jute plant
�Advantage
Excellent resistance to
micro-organisms
�Disadvantage
harsh and brittle
Lints badly
Wrinkles easily
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Silk Silk
y Silk is also called animal fiber
y obtained from cocoon of the silkwormmoth.
y Advantage
luxurious
unique texture and lustrous appearance.
Disadvantage
Expensive
requires frequent dry cleaning and
hand wash is strictly prohibited gets creased and can be damaged if
exposed in sunlight.
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ManmadeManmade ² ² natural f abricsnatural f abrics
y made from natural sources like wood pulp
and fiber obtained from other plants
which are further processed with
chemicals.
y some of the popular artificial fibers are
classified as acetate, rayon, triacetate and
modified rayon.
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RayonRayon
y Obtained from processed wood pulp
y Advantages
hard, strong and highly absorbent.
economicaldrapes wonderfully
substitute of natural fiber which is expensive overartificial fiber.
y Disadvantage
more prone to burning and can rapidly catch fire.
wrinkles easily
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AcetateAcetate
y obtained from wood pulpy Advantages
moth resistant
excellent draping qualitiesversatile and inexpensive.used in making of satins and other fabrics.y Disadvantage
low absorbent and strength.Easily damaged by heat
Easily wrinkled
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Manmade : SyntheticManmade : Synthetic f ibersf ibers
y Artificial fibers
y Obtained due to reaction of chemicals
y E.g acrylic, nylon, polyester, and olefin.
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AcrylicAcrylic
y Advantagelightweight, soft and warm.
doesn·t crease easily, shrink resistant andresilient.
Easily blends with other fibers
moth resistantdyes welly
Disadvantagesensitive if exposed to sunlight.pills easily
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PolyestersPolyesters
y Advantageseasy to handle as it can be hand washed.
shrink resistant
moth resistantretains its shapecrease resistant.can be mixed with other fibers for enhanced
qualities. excellent resistance to biological attacks.
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Polyamide (nylon)Polyamide (nylon)
y Advantages
tough
resilient fiber
high elasticity.
non-shrinkable
crease resistant
easily washable.
most durable
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OlefinOlefin (Polypropylene and(Polypropylene and polyethhylenepolyethhylene))
y Advantages
inexpensive
widely used as carpet fiber
light
excellent elastic recovery
good resistance to stains
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Textile Process FlowTextile Process Flow
yTextile Fiber Selection
yYarn (Spinning)
yWeaving or knitting
yProcessing (Dyeing & Printing)
yFinishing
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YARNYARN
y Yarn is defined as a linear assemblage of thef ibers twisted together.
y The process of making the yarn from a textile fiber
is called Spinning
y Both staple and f ilament f ibres are used tomake yarn
y Staple f ibres make spun yarn.
y Filament f ibres make f ilament yarn
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Felting- is the massing,
flattening & matting together(Interlocking) of many fibersby application of Heat,pressure, steam and chemicals
Knitting- is a fabric which madefrom a single yarn into acontinuous row of loopsinterlock.
Weaving- is an art of forming
a fabric at right angles with
two or more sets of yarn. It is
one of the basic methods of
fabric preparation
Fabric Formation
Knitting -
Inter-looping
Felting -
Interlocking
Weaving-
Interlacing
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WeavingWeaving
yWeave: Interlacing of the weft yarns
(crosswise yarns) with the warp yarns
(lengthwise yarns)
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Weave pattern
y There are THREE basic weave patterns
used for the majority of fabrics and they
are
1) Plain
2) Twill
3) Satin
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PLAIN WEAVEPLAIN WEAVE
Plain weave is the simplest and most used weave
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PLAIN WEAVE VARIATIONSPLAIN WEAVE VARIATIONS
BASKET
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RIB
Warp ribbed (corded) fabric,
coarse warp yarn than weft
yarn
Weft ribbed fabric, coarse weft yarn than
warp yarn
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PILE WEAVE
UNCUT PILE CUT PILE
Terry Cloth Corduroy
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TWILL FABRICWEAVETWILL FABRICWEAVE
Denim
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TwillWeaveTwillWeave
y A distinct design for the twill weave is it
form a diagonal line.
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SATIN WEAVESATIN WEAVE
Under one, over f our or more
creating ́ f loatsµ with wef t yarns
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SatinWeaveSatinWeave
y Similar to twill weave but the diagonal line
of the satin weave is not visible.
y It is purposely interrupted in order to
contribute to the flat, smooth, lustroussurface desired.
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SATIN WEAVE VARIATIONSATIN WEAVE VARIATION
Sateen Weave
Floats on warp yarns
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Comparison of Basic Weave Properties
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y Small patternsy produces an allover figured fabrics.
y small geometric patterns.y The construction of the weave is very
complex and the design is repeatedfrequently.
y created on dobby machines.
y The machine selectively raises some warp
threads and selectively depresses others withthe help of a dobby card.
y used as home furnishings and for heavyapparel.
DOBBY WEAVE
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y Used to produce intricate patternsy figures are created all over the fabrics.
y woven on a jacquard loom.
y The loom has a jacquard attachment or a punch card.
y In jacquard loom, the warp yarns is individually controlled
and not in groups. This allows creating more complexdesigns.
y Fabrics of jacquard weave are costly because it involvesmore time and skill in making the Jacquard cards to producenew pattern.
y Moreover the weaving operation is also very slow.
y used for upholstery and drapery materials like brocades,damask , tapestries
JACQUARD WEAVE
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housefabric.com mobilitymegastore.co.uk
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KNITTINGKNITTING
Constructing fabric with one
yarn and one set (2) of
needles; right side is flat
(knit), wrong side is bumpy
(pearl).
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FELTINGFELTING
Nonwoven fabric :
�made by pressing fibers
together with moisture,
heat, and pressure.Nonwoven fabrics have no
grainlines.
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FABRIC TERMSFABRIC TERMS
Selvages«woven edges of
fabric, runs parallel to
lengthwise grain
Lengthwise grain«strongest grain,
also called the warp yarns, runs
parallel to the selvage
Cut or Torn edge«
runs parallel to the
crosswise grain
Crosswise grain«
weaker grain, runs
parallel to cut or torn
edge and perpendicular
to the lengthwise grain;
also called the weft
yarns
Fabric f old«created when
selvages or cut edges are
brought together.
Bias«a diagonal line
of direction running
between the
lengthwise and
crosswise grains of fabric
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Coloring FabricColoring Fabric
Bef ore Construction:
Yarn Dying
Printing:
Af ter Construction:
Piece Dying
Af ter Construction:
Color the
same on
f ront and
back
Color diff erent on
f ront and back
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Fabrics in Interior DesignFabrics in Interior Design
The proper use of fabric will bring
your interior design to life.
�Function,
�Mood
�Harmony
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FunctionFunction
y How durable does the fabric need to be?
y How fade resistant is the fabric in
sunlight?
y How dirt resistant does the fabric need
to be?
y Is the fabric you have just fallen in love
with too expensive for your budget?
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MoodMood
y Does this fabric fit the overall mood of yourdesign?
y The best way for you to choose fabric is togo to a store and experience the fabric firsthand. It is important to inspect them upclose and touch them to see if the weaveand texture appeals to you.
y
Whatever color scheme or mood youdecide to go with, using a variety of fabrictextures adds depth to your design.
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HarmonyHarmony
y Are the fabrics you have chosen
harmonious with each other and with
your overall design? The patterns in the
fabrics must be proportional, i.e. bigmotifs with big furniture and big patterns
with large rooms.
y
Have only one bold pattern in any room.
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TextileTestingTextileTesting
y In response to ever-changing
governmental regulations and the ever-
increasing consumer demand for high
quality, testing is essential to minimize risk and protect the interest of both
manufacturers and consumers.
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WhyTest?
Testing is carried out at the fibre, fabric and garment stage. Testing is required forseveral reasons:
�To ensure the product meets certain legal and safety requirements, for example
by law, products like sofas and beds have to meet certain fireproofing or
flammability standards.
�To ensure accurate labelling, eg washing and aftercare instructions.
�To make a decision about what materials, pre-manufactured components and
production processes to use.
�To match materials and components with suitable tools, equipment and
processes.
�To ensure customer loyalty.
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PillingPilling
y Happens when small accumulations of fibresappear on the surface of a fabric.
y develop during wear,y To test for pilling, the material to be tested is
moved back and forth for a certain number of revolutions across the machine heads, whichare covered with pieces of standard woollenfabric.
y
The results of the test are graded, with 5 beingno pilling at all.Most manufacturers require a 4to pass.
Ab iAb i
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AbrasionAbrasion
y This test records the rate at which the materialsthreads break after being exposed to repeatedabrasion.
y The sample is stretched taut and held againstcurved rotating cylinder with and abrasivesurface.
y The Oscillatory Cylinder method known as theWyzenbeek test is the traditional test for testingabrasion resistance.
y
The Taber abraser test is used for carpets.y Test results depend on number of cycles required
before an visible changes in the fabric.
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y ASTM D4970 , Standard Test Method for
Pilling Resistance and Other related Surface
Changes of Textile Fabrics is an abrasion test
used to determine resistance to theformation of pills and other surface
changes on textile fabrics under light
pressure.
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Tear StrengthTear Strength
y Tear strength is a test toidentify how much forceis needed to tear a pieceof fabric.
y Sensors inside the
machine record theamount of force appliedto the material and thespeed of the tear.
y The material is clamped
in to the machine andmore and more forceapplied until the fabricbreaks.
C tT tiC tT ti
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CarpetTestingCarpetTesting
y A particular area of speciality is the
mechanical testing of carpets that includes
testing for:
y construction
y durability
y appearance change
y colour fastness (light, rub, wash etc)
y electrostatic properties.
D T tiD T ti
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DrapeTestingDrapeTesting
y The drape test is used to find out how stiff apiece of fabric is. A circular piece of materialis placed in
y the drape box, the lid closed and the outer
part of the material allowed to hang freely.The materialy casts a shadow on a paper ring and by
drawing around it and then calculating howmuch of the paper it
y covers, it is possible to come up with afigure that represents the stiffness of thematerial.
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Flame retardantFlame retardant
y In industry fabrics can be treated for flame retardant to meetBritish Standard specifications.
Non substantive finishes.Usually water-soluble products thatfive off gases which swamp the oxygen and stop flamesforming.
Substantives finishes. The most common type of treatmentand used on textiles which have to be regularly laundered ordry cleaned, for example Proban and Pyrovatex.
Reflective surface coatings are added to enhance thermalproperties as well as making the product more resistant tofire.
Back coating, which is done by spreading the reverse of afabric with a mixture of fire-resisting chemicals and resins.
y Popular for carpets and floor coverings.