texas faceters' guild project 2000

Texas Faceters’ Guild

Twentieth Anniversary Commemorative

Project 2000

Famous Diamond Replicas

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All Rights Reserved Copyright 2000-2010 TFG

Texas Faceters’ Guild

Famous Diamond Replicas

Project 2000

To commemorate

our first twenty years of faceting together

as we look forward to many more

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Story of the Texas Faceters’ Guild Facts about the Famous Diamonds Our Famous Diamond Replicas History and Diagrams listed alphabetically Some of My Favorites Acknowledgments References

Introduction

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INTRODUCTION On May 3, 1980, the Texas Faceters’ Guild, TFG, organized. “Recognizing that the faceting of the earth’s treasures is both a science and an art, and that faceting is the most exacting and organized branch of the lapidary arts, those special people engaged in this, a most rewarding lapidary pursuit, do hereby organize themselves into the Texas Faceters’ Guild in conformity with this Constitution, By-laws, and the Rules and Regulations hereinafter stated.” Thus the beginning of an organization that has spanned twenty years, with many very talented faceters and designers among its members. July 18, 1988, a letter was sent out to the members of the Texas Faceters’ Guild by Walter Carss, then President. The letter began: “Our new Vice President of the Texas Faceters’ Guild, Hubert Rackets, has proposed to the Board of Directors that we can cut replicas of the 31 famous diamonds in Cubic Zirconia as a TFG project. We have all seen such replicas cut from quartz, but the use of CZ should produce a dazzling display. It is Hubert’s proposal that the set be displayed at various shows to advertise the Texas Faceters’ Guild and then to be donated by the Guild to some museum.” And so it began, a project to cut the famous diamonds. Those wishing to volunteer to cut a replica would be asked to donate $45.00 as their pro-rated share of the cost of the project. In the January 1989 issue of the newsletter, twelve members accepted the challenge: Don Buell, Walter Carss, Cliff Chapman, Dan Clark, Cliff Condit, Charles Covill, Johnny Coultrup, Sister Clement Johnson, Joe Little, Hubert Rackets, Gerald Savage, and Dave Beckwith. At the time this project began, TFG maintained a rotating display at the University of Texas at Austin. The display contained several cut stones and included the Cullinan I: 530 carats, Dresden Green: 41 carats, the Empress Eugenie: 51 carats, and the Cullinan IV: 11 carats. January 1990, Walter Carss says, “I have secured approval of the TFG Board of Directors to proceed with the Famous Diamond Replica program, originally started by Hubert Rackets, as an official TFG program. Large pieces of Cubic Zirconia have been ordered on behalf of the guild to cut those gems not currently assigned. The rudiments of our planned 30+ stone collection have already been displayed at the Buchanan Dam Symposium and at the Midland show, with enthusiastic reception.” By this time, eight replicas were complete, with fifteen more assigned and underway. The first

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eight replicas completed were: Cullinan I, Hubert Rackets; Victoria, J.O. Little; Nassak, Charles Covill; Polar Star, Johnny Coultrup; Jubilee, Walter Carss; Hope, Walter Carss; Jonker, Bill Cox; and Regent, J. O. Little. To date, 30 replicas have been completed and exhibited at many locations in the United States. Completed replicas and the faceter:

The purpose of this book is to provide copies of the diagrams used to cut these famous diamonds. An ongoing project is in process to provide new diagrams based on new information on size and shape or on a new photograph of any of the famous diamonds. As an added touch to our book, brief histories of each of these diamonds are included. In no way are these stories to take the place of the many fine reference books available. The pictures included in this book are photos of the replicas cut by the members of the Texas Faceters’ Guild members. Enjoy!

Cullinan I Hubert Rackets Jubilee Walter Carss Victoria J. O. Little Hope Walter Carss Nassak Charles Covill Jonker Bill Cox Polar Star Johnny Coultrup Regent J. O. Little De Young Red Walter Carss Sancy Walter Carss

Empress Eugenie Greg Thompson Pigot Howell Kilgore Pasha of Egypt Sister Clement Tiffany Walter Carss

Star of the South Tom Nuchols Stewart Cliff Chapman

Cullinan VIII Allen Baker Cullinan IX Ernest Thaxton Dresden Green Walter Carss Cullinan VII Cliff Chapman Cullinan V Cliff Condit Cullinan IV Hubert Rackets

Dudley Marvin Holbrook Koh-i-Noor Ernest Thaxton English Dresden Hubert Rackets Cullinan II Greg Thompson Dresden Green Jack Newsom Great Mogul J. O. Little Hope Jack Newsom Tiffany Charles Covill

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Many people from different walks of life decided they had an interest in faceting. An interest important enough to them, that they formed the Texas

elected, and an organization founded on a common need to promote faceting in the lapidary arts began. We began in 1980 with Dr. Louis J. Cole as President, Sister Clement Johnson as Vice-President, Jack Williams as Secretary, James Botsford as Treasurer, Ted Dunnam as 2nd Vice-President in charge of faceting and judging standards, and Dora Cole as Editor. Meetings were held in numerous places in conjunction with gem and mineral club shows. Faceters came from many professions and from many different cities to work together to form an organization that would endure. A newsletter started early in this process, made available great information: diagrams, articles of interest, tips on dopping, cutting, competition, collecting sites, judging rules, the Australian Challenge. This was the opportunity for ideas to be discussed and improved through a pool of shared knowledge of these many members. Charter Members are: James R. Botsford Vergil L. Perkins Dr. Louis J. Cole J. B. Tardy Johnny Coultrup E. O. Voge George Deaver Gale Walton Francis Harris M. R. Winnet Sister Clement Johnson Kris Wittlinger E. L. Brogdon Dora Cole Reno Crane Ted Dunnam Brian Hawkins John A. Lapham John H. Schober Jim Thomas

The Texas Faceters’ Guild Story of

Faceters’ Guild. So on May 3, 1980, a charter was signed, officers were

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Wayne Walton Jack Williams R. C. Bob Wittlinger By January 1981, ninety-four faceters had joined, mostly from Texas, but some members were from Louisiana and Arkansas. The years 1981 and 1982 passed rapidly with lots of activities and decisions to make regarding many key issues. May 1983, new officers took their places in history: Sister Clement Johnson, President; J.B. Tardy, Vice-President; James Botsford, Secretary; Bob Wittlinger, Treasurer; Marvin Holbrook, 2nd Vice-President in charge of faceting and judging standards; John Cheek as Editor, and Edwin Katz as Printer. The first Historian was appointed, Bodo Burrow of Comfort, Texas, as we were now four years old and in need of someone to compile our past deeds and activities. A plea went out to the membership for copies of newspaper clippings, snapshots, TFG-related events at various shows, etc. We are now in our twentieth year, and the need for those pieces of information is even more important now. So much can be lost during the shuffling of papers between officers. During 1983, Dr. Louis J. Cole, Dora Cole, as well as, Glen Vargas and Martha Vargas were given Lifetime Honorary Memberships for their important parts in the beginning years of the Texas Faceters’ Guild. They were the first recipients of this honor. Glen and Martha Vargas had also completed and published their second book Diagrams for Faceting Volume II. In February 1984, the TFG started meeting at the Clear Lake Show. The first Texas Faceters’ Fair was held in Big Spring, Texas on June 16-17, 1984. More than sixty faceters attended from four states. Robert Long and Norman Steele were the featured presenter and spoke on “Meet Point Faceting”. It was said these two gentleman gave us much information and told us how to correct our mistakes. We left renewed and full of enthusiasm for our hobby. At the Clear Lake Show in February 1985, the new Texas Faceter’s Guild banner was presented by Sister Clement Johnson. May 18-19, 1985, Glen and Martha Vargas held a Faceting Symposium at the Geology Building on

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the campus of the University of Texas. Several TFG members attended. One topic that stands out in many of the newsletter during this time is competition. It was said, serious faceters were searching for ways to encourage more people to get into competition. Competition makes faceters more careful when cutting, and the judging score sheet is one of the best teachers. In May 1985 a new group took office, and Sister Clement became Editor. The guild was always in search of new ways to challenge members, and promote faceting. In March 1986, the first Texas Faceters’ Guild Symposium was held in Big Springs, Texas. Five months of hard work and preparation was rewarded by a great show. When asked at the end “if they had learned anything?” they responded with vigorous applause. During 1987, Robert W. Strickland became a member of the TFG. He was introduced by his father through the use of a letter to the editor of TFG, which was published in the April-July 1987 issue, “Our New Computer Designer Member”. Charles Covill’s design “Slanting Madness” modified by Long and Steele was chosen by the Northwest Faceters Conference as one of the twelve best cuts for 1986. 1988-1990 officers were elected, and included a new president with concerns on how the Guild would continue. His letter, published in the newsletter in July 1988, no doubt made the membership think, as I am sure that was his intent. He invited all the members to write to him, express their ideas, ask questions, whatever, but get involved. It must have worked for on July 17, 1988, a letter was written to the membership of the TFG making them an offer. This letter was prompted by a proposal made to Walter by Hubert Rackets. Hubert came to Walter with an idea- cut replicas of thirty-one of the famous diamonds. Hubert had already cut the Cullinan I for himself after discovering numerous articles by Tom R. Barbour, about the famous diamonds in the Lapidary Journals 1961 through 1962. Mr. Barbour constructed the diagrams and cutting instructions for numerous famous diamonds. The letter went out and was met with much enthusiasm. The project began, and soon numerous replicas were cut and being displayed at the University of Texas at Austin.

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With renewed spirit, the Guild continued with Symposiums held at Buchanan Dam in October, the newsletters filled with diagrams produced by many of the members, changes in the Bylaws, new officers, new editors with new and different ideas, the passing of several beloved Guild members, injuries, and illnesses, and good friends moving away and unable to attend the Guild functions. And then in 1994, there was the design of Sister Clement’s Cross by Walter Carss with Robert W. Strickland and GemCad as a token of appreciation for all she had given to the Guild and its membership. Many of the replicas have been cut and exhibited at many gem and mineral club shows for several years. Our membership has increased, some members more active than others, but each important in their own right. We are now in the year 2000, our twentieth anniversary year, with new officers, a new editor, and a great project. When GemCad was introduced to all of us, some took it and ran to their computer while others stood back and watched. We still hold our annual Symposium in October. Now it is held in Austin at the Austin Gem and Mineral Society’s clubhouse. The Clear Lake Gem and Mineral Show still finds us there for our second meeting of the year. The two locations allow more members to attend and be active. The project of the Famous Diamond Replicas has continued and expanded to become a part of why we exist. Each year, at many of the club shows, our president encourages members to enter competition. We have always had members actively competing in local shows and in the Australian Competition. We now have a member who has won First Place in the Australian Competition, not only once, but twice, our own Ewing Evans. We all look forward to sharing new experiences with new friends. A toast to the next twenty years.

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Facts About the Famous Diamonds Cullinan 3106 carats, found 1905 by Frederick Wells, at (Rough) Premier Mine in South Africa; yielded nine major

Cullinan II 317.40 carats, cut 1908 by Joseph Asscher,

Cullinan III 99.40 carats, cut 1908 by Joseph Asscher, eighty-four facets, unusual pointed pear shape;

Cullinan IV 63.60 carats, cut 1908 by Joseph Asscher,

Cullinan V 18.80 carats, cut 1908 by Joseph Asscher, one

Cullinan VI 11.5 carats, cut 1908 by Joseph Asscher,

Cullinan VII 8.80 carats, cut 1908 by Joseph Asscher,

Cullinan VIII 6.80 carats, cut 1908 by Joseph Asscher,

diamonds.

seventy-four facets, pear shaped; replica cut by Hubert Rackets.

sixty-six facets, cushion cut; replica cut by Greg Thompson.

replica being cut by Jill Rowlands.

seventy-eight facets, antique square; replica cut by Hubert Rackets.

hundred four facets, heart shaped; replica cut by Cliff Condit and Walter Carss.

ninety-two facets, marquise. No replica has been cut as yet but a diagram is been included.

ninety-seven facets, marquise shaped; replica cut by Clifford Chapman.

Cullinan IX 4.40 carats,cut 1908 by Joseph Asscher,

Cullinan I 530.20 carats, cut in 1908 by Joseph Asscher,

ninety-three facets, oblong brilliant; replica cut by Allan Baker.

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DeYoung Red 5.03 carat mystery diamond, origin unknown,

Dresden Green 41.0 carats, first seen 1741 at Leipzig Fair,

Empress Eugenie 51.0 carats, worn in 1762 as center diamond in

English Dresden 76.5 carats, discovered in 1857 in the Bagagem

Hope 44.5 carats, originally 112 carats, found 1669 in

Jonker 125 carats, found in alluvial deposit on Jacobus

ninety-one facets, pear shaped; replica cut by Earnest Thaxton.

fifty-seven facets, round brilliant; replica cut by Walter Carss.

ninety-five facets, pear shaped; replica cut by Walter Carss. A second Dresden Green was cut by Jack Newsom after a newer picture showed the small end less pointed; fifty-eight facet almond shaped brilliant.

found in 1869 by shepherd boy in South Africa, Dudley 47.75 carats, also called Star of South Africa,

sixty-four facet,oval brilliant; replica cut by Marvin Holbrook.

Empress Catherine II hair pin, one hundred seven facets, oval; replica cut by Greg Thompson.

Mine, Brazil, fifty-eight facets, pear shaped; replica cut by Hubert Rackets.

Great Mogul 279.5 carats, found in India, Kollur Mines in 1650, two hundred twenty-one facets, rose-cut; replica cut by J.O. Little.

Kollus Mine near Golconda, one hundred facets, cushion shaped; replica cut by Walter Carss first, then more recently by Jack Newsom.

Jonker farm in Pretoria, South Africa in 1934, sixty-six facets, emerald cut; replica cut by Bill Cox .

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Jubilee 245.35 carats, found 1895 at Jagersfontein Mine,

Koh-i-Noor 105.60 carats, the oldest diamond of record, found

Nassak 89.59 carats, colorless and flawless; first seen

Pasha of Egypt 41.06 carats, first written history is when

Pigot 48.63 carats, a gift to Baron George Pigot from the Governor of India in 1763, oval cut, ninety facets;

Polar Star 41.29 carats, thought to have been found in India

Regent 140.5 carats, found in Parteal Mine in India on the

Sancy 55.0 carats, also called “the very Sphynx of

South Africa, eighty-one facets, colorless cushion cut; replica cut by Walter Carss.

in the Godavari River deposits sometime before 1526, eighty-seven facets, oval; replica cut by

before 1818, cut into triangular shape and later to

Earnest Thaxton.

an emerald cut, seventy-one facets; replica cut by Charles Covill.

purchased by Egyptian Viceroy in 1848, octagonal-shaped brilliant, eighty-one facets; replica cut by Sister Clement Johnson.

replica cut by Howell Kilgore.

in mid 1700s, cushion shaped, said to have perfect symmetry, eighty-one facets; replica cut by Johnny Coultrup.

River Krishna in 1698, cushion cut, one hundred six facets; replica cut by J.O. Little.

Diamonds” appeared in 1590s when purchased in Constantinople by Seigneur de Sancy, almond shaped, double-rose cut, ninety facets; replica cut by Walter Carss.

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Star of the South 128.8 carats, originally 261.88 carats and the

Stewart 123.0 old carats, originally 296.0 carats yellowish

Tiffany 128.5 carats, found in 1877 to 1878 in a mine

Victoria 184.5 carats, also called the Imperial or Great

largest diamond ever found by a woman, found in Bagagem Mines, South America in 1853, oval brilliant, eighty-nine facets; replica cut by Tom Nuchols.

color found in 1872 by Robert Spaulding and Antonine Williams on the South African Vaal River, brilliant cut, seventy-three facets; replica cut by Clifford Chapman.

somewhere in South Africa (the exact time and location are not clear), cushion shaped, 90 facets; the first replica cut by Walter Carss, and the second one cut by Charles Covill.

White, believed to have been found on a farm in the Orange Free State by a farmer who wished to keep its discovery quiet for fear of invasion of the diamond hunters, or possibly found in 1884 in the Kimberly Mine and smuggled out, oval brilliant, ninety-three facets; replica cut by J.O. Little.

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Our Famous Diamond Replicas

in Alphabetical Order

those completed as of December 2000

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The First Eight These are the first eight replicas cut. They include: Cullinan I by Hubert Rackets, Victoria by Joe Little, Nassak by Charles Covill, Polar Star by Johnny Coultrup, Jubilee by Water Carss, Hope by Walter Carss, Jonker by Bill Cox and Regent by Joe Little.

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The Cullinans This very large diamond was found by chance in 1905 in the Premier mine located in South Africa. It is the largest lump of gem-quality diamond known to have been discovered: 3,106 carats, or about one and one third pounds. This very large chunk was found by the mine superintendent, Frederick Wells. He saw it sticking out of the side of the mine wall. The sun was setting and at just the precise moment, a sparkle caught his eye. Frederick got a reward of $10,000 from DeBeers when he turned it in. The diamond was named the Cullinan for Sir Thomas Cullian, who opened the Premier mine and was president of the company and operating the mine at the time of the discovery. The Cullinan was so large that even though shown to many prospective buyers, no one was able to pay the asking price. General Louis Botha, the prime minister of the country of Transvaal, was in favor of the government purchasing the Cullinan and giving it to King Edward as a token of the loyalty of the Transvaal people and to commemorate their independence from Britain. Though the idea received much opposition, it was eventually sold to the Transvaal government some two years later for $750,000. The government was to present it to King Edward VII for his 66th birthday. It was then mailed to London through parcel post, while a dummy stone was placed in the captain’s safe and guarded by detectives while being transported to London. Both stones arrived safely. First cleaved in February 1908 by J. Asscher, the large Cullinan was divided and subdivided, resulting in nine major gems, ninety-six smaller ones, and nine carats of polished smaller pieces. On the day Asscher was to cleave the diamond, he struck the first blow with a doctor and nurse in attendance. The diamond cleaved cleanly into two pieces as Asscher fainted and fell to the floor. In times past when such a feat was attempted, failure also meant death. A 530.20 carat diamond called the Great Star of Africa or the Cullinan I, and the Cullinan II, a 317.40 carat diamond, remained as part of the British Crown Jewels. The cutter, Asscher, received several of the smaller stones as payment for his work, but he did not keep them. Several of the replicas have been cut by members of the Texas Faceters’ Guild for our Famous Diamond Replicas exhibit.

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Cullinan I There are seventy-four facets on this luscious, pear-shaped diamond of almost 530.20 carats. The Cullinan I, also called the Great Star of Africa, is the largest cut diamond in the world. It is not only the first to be cut from the original 3100-plus carats of the Cullinan diamond, but also the largest. The Cullinan diamond was found in 1905 by Frederick Wells while working as a foreman at the Premier Mines in South Africa. The mine was discovered by Sir Thomas Cullinan several years before, and he was in charge of the mine’s operations. A simple turn of the head at just the precise time, and Frederick Wells found the largest diamond in the world. In 1908, the cutter of the Cullinan, Joseph Asscher, had to prepare special tools to complete the task of cutting such a large stone. This was a task he staked his reputation on to complete without destroying such a magnificent beauty. After studying, calculating, and worrying, the first blow was delivered; the diamond fell gracefully into two pieces, exactly as Asscher had planned. The Cullinan I from the Texas Faceters’ Guild Diamond Replicas was cut by Hubert Rackets. Hubert originated the idea of the Guild cutting and displaying the Famous Diamond Replicas as a project to gain membership interest in the Guild and to have a special purpose. The Cullinan I was one of the first eight stones to be completed.

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Cullinan ICullinan 1 Replica 53 * 44 mm, 530 caratsRef. Tom R. Barbour,Lapidary Journal April 1960Modified for CZ by F.M. HolbrookAngles for R.I. = 2.20076 + 16 girdles = 92 facets1-fold, mirror-image symmetry64 indexL/W = 1.204 T/W = 0.725 U/W = 0.542P/W = 0.339 C/W = 0.194Vol./W³ = 0.256

PAVILIONg1 90.00° 14-50 See preform instructionsg2 90.00° 18-46 ""g3 90.00° 22-42 ""g4 90.00° 25-39 ""g5 90.00° 27-37 "" g6 90.00° 10-54 ""g7 90.00° 06-58 ""g8 90.00° 02-62 ""1 42.88° 02-62 Cut about 3/4 up or to preform culet2 42.88° 06-58 Level Girdle3 42.88° 10-54 ""4 42.88° 14-50 ""5 46.09° 18-46 ""6 44.38° 22-42 ""7 46.51° 25-39 ""8 46.05° 27-37 ""9 37.92° 64 Cut to girdle, meet 1 & 210 37.92° 08-56 Cut to girdle, meet 9 2 3 & 411 37.92° 16-48 Cut to girdle, meet 10 4 5 & 612 40.20° 23-41 Cut to girdle, meet 11 6 7 & 813 35.89° 32 Cut to girdle, meet 12 7 & 814 36.00° 16-48 Cut to meet 11 & 515 36.00° 64 Cut to meet 9 1 & culet16 36.00° 08-56 Cut to meet 10 3 & culet17 31.15° 23.0-41.0 Cut to meet 11 7 & culet18 24.40° 32 Cut to meet 13 8 & culet

PAVILION1 0.00° Culet Culet facet

CROWNg1 48.00° 02-62 Cut to establish girdle thickness2 48.00° 06-58 Level girdle3 48.00° 10-54 ""4 48.00° 14-50 ""5 50.68° 18-46 ""6 47.01° 22-42 ""7 50.51° 25-39 ""8 51.72° 27-37 ""9 42.00° 64 Cut to girdle10 42.00° 08-56 Cut to girdle, meet 1 & 211 42.00° 16-48 Cut to girdle, meet 3 & 412 42.14° 23-41 Cut to girdle, meet 5 & 613 42.31° 32 Cut to girdle, meet 7 & 814 36.00° 64 Cut to meet 9 & 115 36.00° 08-56 Cut to meet 10 & 317 36.00° 23-41 Cut to meet 12 & 718 28.29° 32 Cut to meet 13 & 819 23.00° 04-60 Cut to meet 9 & 11020 23.06° 12-52 Cut to meet 110 & 1116 36.01° 16.0-48.021 25.13° 18-46 Cut to meet 11 & 1322 28.27° 22-42 Cut to meet 11 & 1223 24.72° 25-39 Cut to meet 12 13 17 & 18 Table 0.00° Table

Based on new information in Ian Balfour book"Famous Diamonds" a new diagram is forthcomingAsscher dimensions 59X45.5 mm from Balfour 4th EditionC:\gemcad\Cull1a.gem

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Cullinan II The Cullinan II has sixty-six facets and weighs 317.40 carats. Also called the Lesser Star of Africa, the Cullinan II was cut from the 3100-plus carat rough Cullinan diamond found in 1905. Late one January afternoon, in the Premier Mine in South Africa, the sun shining into the mine, a surprising discovery is made. The largest diamond ever found was discovered by Frederick Wells, the foreman. And what a days work! He received a $10,000 reward for turning in the discovery. The Cullinan II is a beautiful cushion-cut stone, the second largest to be cut from the Cullinan diamond. This diamond is set in the Imperial state crown and is part of the British Crown Jewels. Can you imagine the amazement of such a treasure? Found only two years after Thomas Cullinan outlined the mouth of the pipe, 2,900 feet long, 1,400 feet wide with over 3500 claims on it, the Premier Mine. This replica was cut by Greg Thompson, a member of the Texas Faceters’ Guild since 1984.

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Cullinan II Cullinan II Replica 43*37 mm, 317.4 caratsRef. Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal October 1961Modified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.20066 + 28 girdles = 94 facets2-fold, mirror-image symmetry64 indexL/W = 1.162 T/W = 0.700 U/W = 0.518H/W = 0.629Vol./W³ = 0.312

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40-44-52-56g4 90.00° 04-28-36-60g5 90.00° 02-30-34-62g6 90.00° 01-31-33-63g7 90.00° 64-321 34.32° 07-25-39-572 40.00° 64-323 32.27° 16-484 42.97° 64-325 45.07° 01-31-33-636 44.89° 04-28-36-607 41.91° 07-25-39-578 43.31° 08-24-40-569 43.95° 13-19-45-5110 38.19° 16-4811 0.00° Culet

CROWNa 35.00° 64-32b 38.84° 01-31-33-63c 29.70° 08-24-40-56d 38.89° 03-29-35-61e 42.18° 12-20-44-52i 18.05° 03-29-35-61h 0.00° Tablej 22.59° 12-20-44-52f 39.20° 16-48g 42.16° 15-17-47-49

Based on new information from Ian Balfour's book"Famous Diamonds", a new diagram is forthcomingAsscher dimensions 45X40.5 from Balfour 4th EditionC:\gemcad\Cullinn2.gem

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Cullinan III The 99.40-carat Cullinan III is an unusual pointed pear-shaped diamond. It was bought by the Union of South Africa as a gift for the then Princess of Wales. The Cullinan was to be given to her when she came to Africa to help open the Union’s first parliament. Her father, Edward VII, died before she was able to go, but the stone was mailed to her. Now as Queen Mary, she had the Cullinan III and IV mounted in a setting that could be attached to her crown or could be worn as a brooch. It would seem to have been one of her favorite pieces of jewelry since she wore it often and was wearing it for several of her portraits. Queen Elizabeth’s portrait was painted while wearing these two diamonds. The Cullinan III picture shown above was cut using the second diagram. Since the commemorative book was published, new information has allowed us to update the diagram to be more accurate. The Cullinan III was cut in 2003 by Alec Gallia.

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CULLINAN 3 REPLICA 94.4 carats 39.5 x 26 mm * actual measurementsPhoto ref GARRARD THE CROWN JEWELERS..Gere & Culme 1993p. 145 by Greg ThompsonAngles for R.I. = 2.20058 + 16 girdles = 74 facets1-fold, mirror-image symmetry96 indexL/W = 1.541 T/W = 0.984 U/W = 0.551P/W = 0.468 C/W = 0.138Vol./W³ = 0.315

CROWNg1 90.00° 03-93g2 90.00° 09-87g3 90.00° 15-81g4 90.00° 24-72g5 90.00° 27-69g6 90.00° 30-66g8 90.00° 36-60a 36.00° 09-87b 36.00° 15-81c 34.00° 24-72d 38.00° 03-93c 30.54° 96f 30.64° 12-84g 36.00° 27-69h 31.16° 25-71T 0.00° Tablei 22.76° 03-93g7 90.00° 33-63

PAVILION1 46.48° 15-812 46.48° 24-723 46.48° 27-694 46.48° 30-665 45.16° 33-636 42.73° 36-607 46.48° 09-878 48.56° 03-939 45.53° 9610 43.73° 12-8411 45.00° 25-7112 43.08° 32-6413 28.05° 48

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add girdle facets 32-64, 20-76, for rounded outline* actual dimensions from Joseph Assher communique, 1908In Ian Balfour's FAMOUS DIAMONDS 4th ed. 2000 p313Photo ref 2 THE QUEEN'S JEWELS by Leslie Field 1987 p73A:\G2gcull3.gem

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Cullinan IV The Cullinan IV, a 63.60-carat antique square, is as brilliant as the Cullinan III. Cut from the original Cullinan found in 1905 in the Premier Mine in South Africa. Part of the collection of stones purchased in 1910 by the Union of South Africa, the Cullinan IV was to be a gift for the Princess of Wales for her contribution to the opening of the Union of South Africa Parliament. This diamond was sent to her by parcel post when she was unable to personally attend the opening due to the death of her father, Edward VII. As Queen Mary, she placed the Cullinan IV and the Cullinan III in her crown. A removable setting was designed so she could also wear them together as a brooch on her clothing. In January of 1905, making a routine inspection, Frederick Wells noticed a sparkle in the wall of the mine. Digging in the wall with his knife, he uncovered a diamond in the rough almost four inches long, three inches wide, and weighing in at just over one and one third pounds. It received no more special treatment than the rest of the week’s diamond find, and almost became an embarrassment to the mine because no one wanted to buy such a large stone. Eventually it was purchased by the Transvaal government and given to King Edward VII for his birthday. This Cullinan IV replica was cut by Hubert Rackets, an active member of the Guild since 1984 and the promoter of this wonderful project.

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Cullinan IV PC 09.135Cullinan IV Replica 25*25 mm, 63.6 caratsRef. Robert W. Strickland, TFG Newsletter April 1995Designed for CZ Angles for R.I. = 2.15062 + 16 girdles = 78 facets4-fold, mirror-image symmetry64 indexL/W = 1.000 T/W = 0.638 U/W = 0.638P/W = 0.373 C/W = 0.169Vol./W³ = 0.256

PAVILIONG1 90.00° 01-31-33-63 Fix length at 25.0

mmG2 90.00° 05-11-21-27- Meet PF1-PF2-G1.

37-43-53-59 Level false girdleG1 90.00° 15-17-47-49 Level girdle.

W=25.0 mm1 45.30° 01-15-17-31-

33-47-49-632 42.40° 05-11-21-27-

37-43-53-593 43.00° 64-16-32-484 38.40° 08-24-40-565 39.00° 64-16-32-486 0.00° Culet

CROWNA 48.80° 01-15-17-31-

33-47-49-63B 47.90° 05-11-21-27-

37-43-53-59C 43.00° 64-16-32-48D 40.50° 08-24-40-56E 25.80° 02-14-18-30-

34-46-50-62T 0.00° Table

Though similar to Tom Barbour's diagram, thisinformation based on published photos of actual diamondThe finished stone should be 25mm square(Barbour)Asscher dimension 26X26 mm,Balfour's 4th Edition C:\gemcad\CullinIV.gem

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Cullinan V The Cullinan V is an 18.80-carat heart-shaped diamond cut from that tremendous diamond, the Cullinan, which was discovered in 1905. The Cullinan V was first set in a brooch for Queen Mary. When she removed the Koh-i-Nor to give to her daughter-in-law, Elizabeth, Queen Mary mounted the Cullinan V in the band of her crown. The Premier (Transvaal) Diamond Mining Company was formed in 1903. It was soon producing great numbers of large diamonds, and within the first few years it had contributed four diamonds of over four hundred carats, two over two hundred carats, and numerous one hundred fifty to two hundred carat diamonds. Then in January 1905, came the enormous Cullinan weighing in at 3106 carats. At the Premier Mine, many years of large diamond discoveries have followed the Cullinan. The Cullinan V was cut by Texas Faceters’ Guild member Cliff Condit at the age of 83, a member since 1980. Cliff passed away several years ago. We also have a second Cullinan V cut by Walter Carss.

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Cullinan V PC 05.004Cullinan V Replica, 17*17 mm, 18.8 caratsRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal May 1963Modified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.20065 + 39 girdles = 104 facets1-fold, mirror-image symmetry96 indexL/W = 1.046 T/W = 0.530 U/W = 0.487P/W = 0.300 C/W = 0.157Vol./W³ = 0.187

PAVILION90.00° 01-9590.00° 42-5490.00° 29-6790.00° 03-9390.00° 26-7090.00° 37-5990.00° 34-6290.00° 32-6490.00° 9690.00° 02-9490.00° 33-6390.00° 35-6190.00° 39-5790.00° 28-6890.00° 04-9290.00° 18-7890.00° 23-7390.00° 46-5090.00° 07-8990.00° 11-85

1 35.67° 30-662 30.12° 483 34.58° 36-604 40.00° 02-945 31.74° 15-816 41.52° 01-957 40.53° 03-938 34.64° 11-859 36.46° 29-6710 34.01° 19-7711 34.24° 42-5412 34.82° 37-5913 37.25° 34-6214 36.84° 31-65C 0.00° Culet

CROWNa 35.00° 30-66b 35.00° 36-60c 35.00° 02-94T 0.00° Tabled 37.50° 01-95e 30.50° 96f 25.92° 15-81g 29.79° 48h 20.83° 09-87i 36.54° 03-93j 19.03° 24-72k 28.41° 33-63l 24.07° 42-54m 38.61° 42-54n 36.45° 37-59o 39.74° 34-62p 38.03° 31-65q 36.93° 29-67r 31.13° 19-77s 30.23° 11-85

The cutter of the Cullinan diamonds, Asscher states dimensions are 17LX18.5W mmn (from Ian Balfour's4th Edition of "Famous Diamonds"C:\gemcad\Cull5A.gem

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Cullinan VI This 11.5-carat marquise came about from one the pieces or “ends” of the large Cullinan diamond after it was cut. The Asschers were allowed to keep these pieces as payment for their highly skilled work. Asscher sold back one of the smaller diamonds, the Cullinan VI, to King Edward to give to his wife, Queen Alexandra. Placed as a drop on an emerald-diamond necklace, it was worn by the Queen. This same necklace was later worn by Queen Elizabeth II, and though Queen Elizabeth possessed many large and beautiful diamonds, she would usually wear only her modest 3-carat diamond engagement ring. The Cullinan VI was cut by Alec Gallia in 2003.

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CULLINAN 6 REPLICA8.8 carats 28.5 x 12 mm * actual dimensionsPhoto ref. GARRARD JEWELRS TO THE CROWN Gere & Culme1993 p.111 by Greg ThompsonAngles for R.I. = 2.20058 + 24 girdles = 82 facets2-fold, mirror-image symmetry96 indexL/W = 2.326 T/W = 1.680 U/W = 0.499P/W = 0.469 C/W = 0.201Vol./W³ = 0.601

CROWNg1 90.00° 23-25-71-73g2 90.00° 01-47-49-95g3 90.00° 22-26-70-74g4 90.00° 20-28-68-76g5 90.00° 16-32-64-80g6 90.00° 10-38-58-861 43.00° 10-38-58-862 27.59° 96-483 45.22° 16-32-64-804 36.85° 18-30-66-785 45.90° 21-27-69-756 45.93° 22-26-70-74T 0.00° Table7 37.36° 24-728 21.70° 22-26-70-749 22.89° 16-32-64-80

PAVILION1 45.00° 24-722 23.27° 96-483 48.70° 22-26-70-744 47.75° 21-27-69-755 31.93° 10-38-58-866 40.76° 16-32-64-80

0.00° Culet7 39.71° 18-30-66-78

rounded girdle is more authentic* dimensions from Assher communique, 1908. In Balfour4th ed. 2000 p.313 Leslie Field in THE QUEEN'S JEWELS1987 misidentifies the Cullinan 6 as the 7 p.77A:\G4gcull6.gem

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Cullinan VI PC 03.001Cullinan VI Replica 26*12.4 mm, 11.5 caratsRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal May 1962Modified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.20068 + 24 girdles = 92 facets2-fold, mirror-image symmetry64 indexL/W = 2.092 T/W = 1.432 U/W = 0.511H/W = 0.670Vol./W³ = 0.460

PAVILION1 42.52° 03-29-35-612 44.54° 64-32g4 90.00° 05-27-37-593 45.64° 01-31-33-634 44.60° 02-30-34-625 43.19° 04-28-36-606 37.68° 06-26-38-587 41.52° 05-27-37-59g3 90.00° 04-28-36-60g1 90.00° 01-31-33-63g2 90.00° 02-30-34-62g5 90.00° 07-25-39-578 37.15° 07-25-39-57g6 90.00° 09-23-41-5510 0.00° Culet9 28.00° 13-19-45-51

CROWNa 42.30° 01-31-33-63b 37.00° 64-32c 29.14° 16-48d 22.20° 02-30-34-62e 39.90° 05-27-37-59f 26.92° 06-26-38-58g 33.22° 12-20-44-52h 44.42° 06-26-38-58i 46.20° 04-28-36-60j 0.00° Table

The cutter of the Cullinan diamonds, Asscher statesdimensions are 28.5X12 mm, from Ian Balfour's 4thEdition of "Famous Diamonds"C:\GEMCAD\CULL6A.GEM

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Cullinan VII This 8.80-carat marquise-cut stone was placed in an all-diamond brooch worn by Queen Mary, the daughter of King Edward VII. It is one of the smallest stones produced by the dividing of that enormous 3,106 carat diamond found in the Premier Mines in South Africa in 1905. This huge chunk of diamond, called the Cullinan, was approximately four inches long, two inches wide, and two and one half inches high. It was named for Sir Thomas Cullinan, who had discovered the Premier Mine and was president of the company operating the mine at the time of this magnificent discovery. Because the large face of the diamond had what appeared to be a natural break, or cleavage, it was speculated that an even larger part of this diamond remained in the wall of the mine where the original Cullinan was discovered. The diamond was sent to be cut by the best cutters known at that time, the Asscher Brothers. Joseph Asscher studied the diamond for months before the even the first cut (cleaving). Because of its large size, the normal tools could not be used; special new larger ones had to be made. Precise calculations were made to prevent destroying the stone at the time of cleavage. The Cullinan VII was actually cut from one of the stones given to the cutter Asscher as payment for performing the cutting of the Cullinan. This replica of the Cullinan VII was cut by Clifford Chapman, who became a member of TFG in 1984 and was a member until his death in January 1995 while serving as President of the Guild.

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Cullinan VII PC 02.005 Cullinan VII Replica 23*11 mm, 8.8 caratsRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal September 1963Modified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.15057 + 40 girdles = 97 facets2-fold, mirror-image symmetry96 indexL/W = 2.087 T/W = 1.080 U/W = 0.469H/W = 0.798Vol./W³ = 0.621

PAVILIONg1 90.00° 24-72g2 90.00° 19-29-67-77g3 90.00° 15-33-63-81g4 90.00° 12-36-60-84g5 90.00° 06-42-54-90g6 90.00° 05-43-53-91g7 90.00° 04-44-52-92g8 90.00° 03-45-51-93g9 90.00° 02-46-50-94g10 90.00° 96-01-47-48-

49-951 40.00° 96-482 43.11° 02-46-50-943 41.48° 05-43-53-914 35.62° 08-40-56-885 24.17° 24-726 37.19° 10-38-58-867 32.48° 14-34-62-82

CROWNa 42.00° 96-48b 50.75° 02-46-50-94c 29.00° 03-45-51-93d 0.00° Tablee 39.17° 08-40-56-88f 48.69° 04-44-52-92g 26.80° 14-34-62-82h 29.47° 24-72i 36.95° 19-29-67-77j 44.57° 09-39-57-87

The cutter of the Cullinan diamonds, Asscher statesthe dimension is 22X11.5 mm, from Ian Balfour's 4thEdition of "Famous Diamonds"C:\gemcad\Cull7A.gem

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Cullinan VIII This 6.80-carat oblong brilliant diamond sits in the center of a diamond brooch worn by Queen Mary. The large Cullinan rough was a cleavage, Type II diamond-the purest and most ideal diamond crystal form. Type I diamonds show good crystal structures. Type II diamonds do not have the symmetrical crystal faces and can grow larger without the restriction of a crystal form. Because of this, it is believed the Cullinan, of some 3106 carats, could have been PART of an even larger diamond, possibly over 5,000 carats, broken during it’s ascension from below. The Cullinan VIII was cut by Texas Faceters’ Guild member Allan Baker.

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Cullinan VIII PC 08.003Cullinan VIII Replica, 16*12 mm, 6.8 caratsRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal October 1963Modified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.20057 + 36 girdles = 93 facets2-fold, mirror-image symmetry64 indexL/W = 1.337 T/W = 0.817 U/W = 0.575H/W = 0.612Vol./W³ = 0.355

PAVILIONg3 90.00° 14-18-46-50g4 90.00° 13-19-45-51g5 90.00° 08-24-40-56g6 90.00° 04-28-36-60g7 90.00° 03-29-35-61g8 90.00° 02-30-34-62g9 90.00° 01-31-33-63g10 90.00° 64-321 40.00° 64-322 40.00° 16-483 42.11° 01-31-33-634 42.18° 14-18-46-505 37.35° 06-26-38-586 40.64° 03-29-35-617 40.84° 11-21-43-53

CROWNa 35.00° 64-32b 44.01° 01-31-33-63c 31.77° 09-23-41-55d 44.21° 03-29-35-61e 20.09° 02-30-34-62f 29.67° 16-48g 37.94° 14-18-46-50h 38.06° 11-21-43-53i 0.00° Tablej 25.25° 15-17-47-49g1-290.00° 16-48

90.00° 15-17-47-49

The cutter of the Cullinan diamonds, Asscher statesthe dimensions are 15X10.5 mm, (Ian Balfour's 4thEdition of "Famous Diamonds")C:\gemcad\Cull8A.gem

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Cullinan IX The Cullinan IX was cut into a 4.40-carat pear-shaped diamond. It was set in a ring for Queen Mary and had a claw-like setting. Like many of these precious diamonds, the Cullinan IX was inherited by Queen Elizabeth II. Though she possessed several of the Cullinan diamonds, her favorite diamond jewelry, or at least the one she wore the most, was a 3 carat diamond engagement ring. As a note of interest, the tradition of the diamond engagement ring came from the explosion of diamonds from mines such as the Premier, owned by Sir Thomas Cullinan. The actual originator of the diamond engagement ring was Archduke Maximillian of Austria, who during the mid to late 1400s had a diamond ring made for his fiancée, Mary of Burgundy. What a wonderful tradition to start. The Cullinan IX was cut by Texas Faceters’ Guild member Earnest Thaxton.

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Cullinan IX PC 05.005Cullinan IX Replica, 14*10 mm, 4.4 caratsRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal October 1963Modified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.20057 + 34 girdles = 91 facets1-fold, mirror-image symmetry96 indexL/W = 1.340 T/W = 0.712 U/W = 0.460P/W = 0.430 C/W = 0.197Vol./W³ = 0.309

PAVILIONg1 90.00° 24-27-30-33-

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CROWNa 34.00° 48b 34.00° 24-36-60-72c 34.00° 12-84

38.50° 45-51e 38.50° 39-57f 38.50° 33-63g 36.21° 25-71h 45.25° 20-76i 44.83° 16-80j 25.00° 42-54k 0.00° Tablel 20.03° 30-66m 15.63° 20-76n 21.93° 05-91o 28.02° 96p 35.05° 10-86q 29.25° 02-94

The cutter of the Cullinan diamonds, Asscher statesthe dimensions are 14X9 mm (from Ian Balfour's 4thEdition of "Famous Diamonds")C:\GEMCAD\CULL9A.GEM

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De Young Red A 5.03-carat deep red diamond. A mystery? S. Sydney De Young acquired this rare beauty as part of a jewelry collection he purchased at an estate sale. It was tagged as a red garnet hat pin. The De Young Red is the largest known red (brownish) diamond and is of unknown origin. Isn’t it strange that this beautiful deep red color could actually be the results of defects in the structure of the diamond? Full red, color of ruby, diamonds are very rare. The colors pink, red, and purple are thought to derive from an unknown color center related to crystal defects. It is now on exhibit at the Smithsonian in Washington, D. C. This replica of the De Young Red was cut by Texas Faceters’ Guild member, Walter Carss. A member since 1981 and the generous contributor of all his Texas Faceter’s Guild newsletters.

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DeYoung Red (round) PC 01.012DeYoung Red Replica, 11.7 mm(calculated), 5.03 caratsRef: Fancy Colored Diamonds, Harvey Harris, 1994Designed for CZ, by Greg Thompson 8/30/00Angles for R.I. = 2.15073 + 16 girdles = 89 facets8-fold, mirror-image symmetry64 indexL/W = 1.000 T/W = 0.477 U/W = 0.477P/W = 0.378 C/W = 0.119Vol./W³ = 0.176

PAVILIONG 40.75° 02-06-10-14-

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TEXAS FACETER'S GUILD: FAMOUS DIAMONDS PROJECT 2000Horizontal Split Mains, Standard Round Brilliant"..one of the largest known deep red diamonds (5.03ct)"11.7 mm size is calculated, not stated in referencesC:\gemcad\DeYngRdA.gem

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Dresden Green This 100-carat apple-green diamond rough is the largest historical diamond of this color. It first appeared in 1741 at the Leipzig Fair where the 41-carat pear-shaped stone was purchased by Frederick Augustus II of Saxony, for about $150,000. Though originally believed to be of Indian origin, this green diamond could be among some of the earliest major colored diamonds, first discovered in 1728, that came from Brazil from the deposits of Minas Gerais. A constant stream of diamonds was moving from Brazil to Amsterdam, so when a Dutch merchant had possession of the Dresden Green at the fair in 1741, it adds merit to the belief the stone is actually of Brazilian origin. In 1742, the Dresden Green was placed in a badge of the Order of the Golden Fleece, as ordered by Frederick Augustus. But it only remained in this badge for a few years. It was dismantled and a new badge was designed-this time to include not only the Dresden Green but also the largest diamond in the Green Vault, the Saxon White, approximately 49 carats in size. These two diamonds remained in this badge for about twenty years. After that, the part holding the Dresden Green was incorporated into a hat ornament, while the Saxon White was included in a shoulder knot. The hat pin included the Dresden along with two other large white diamonds, one 31 carats and the other 13 carats, and strings of smaller white diamonds looping around, swirling up to form a type of bow at the top. The size of the hat pin was six inches from

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top-to- bottom, the Dresden measuring 29 mm long. The pin is a very impressive piece of jewelry. After remaining with the Jewels of Dresden Palace for over two hundred years, they were removed by the Russians in 1945 during an invasion and taken out of the country. As of 1958, the Dresden was returned to the Green Vault where it remains on exhibit. Two Dresden Green replicas were cut by members of the Texas Faceters’ Guild. The first one was cut by Walter Carss from the description provided by Tom R. Barbour in his 1960 series printed in the Lapidary Journal. His description states a pear-shaped stone. Closer study of the stone has given a slightly different take on the shape. A second Dresden Green was cut in this newer shape by Jack Newsom, also a Texas Faceters’ Guild member, just this year, 2000. I am including on this page the first Dresden Green replica cut by Walter. Both stones are beautifully cut.

I only wish I could to include a picture of the hat pendant. The pictures I have seen in the reference books speak thousands of words. We will all just have to go to Germany to the Dresden Palace and the Green Vault, so we can see it for ourselves.

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Dresden Green PF 05.016 Dresden Green Replica, 29*20 mm, 41 caratsRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal April 1962Modified for CZ color Apple Green Angles for R.I. = 2.20075 + 20 girdles = 95 facets1-fold, mirror-image symmetry64 indexL/W = 1.433 T/W = 0.746 U/W = 0.603P/W = 0.424 C/W = 0.192Vol./W³ = 0.319

PAVILIONg1 90.00° 02-62g2 90.00° 06-58g3 90.00° 10-54g4 90.00° 14-50g5 90.00° 16-48g6 90.00° 18-46g7 90.00° 20-44g8 90.00° 22-42g9 90.00° 24-401 42.73° 02-622 42.73° 06-583 42.73° 10-544 42.38° 14-505 41.00° 04-606 41.00° 12-527 42.02° 16-488 40.91° 17-479 41.09° 18-4610 39.75° 20-4411 38.33° 21-4312 38.00° 22-4213 36.43° 24-40g10 90.00° 26-3814 36.77° 23-4115 34.46° 26-3816 0.00° Culet

CROWNa 48.12° 02-62b 48.01° 06-58c 48.01° 10-54d 47.77° 14-50c 43.00° 04-60f 43.00° 12-52g 46.32° 16-48h 42.70° 17-47i 43.66° 18-46j 40.68° 20-44k 26.16° 15-49l 22.60° 31-33m 36.83° 21-43n 32.03° 20-44o 15.69° 64p 14.37° 08-56q 28.50° 26-38r 32.26° 24-40s 36.68° 22-42t 29.00° 25-39u 21.57° 28-36v 26.39° 24-40w 0.00° Table

Dimensions L=28.7mm W=20.0mm H=12.7mm (Barbour)A new diagram included based on "Gems & Gemology"Winter 1990, by GIA. (See next page)C:\gemcad\DresGrnA.gem

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Dresden Green new shapeDresden Green Replica, 29.75*19.88 mm, 41 caratsRef: Robert W. Strickland, calculations 11/11/1998 Modified for CZ, see CAM preform includedAngles for R.I. = 2.13058 + 36 girdles = 94 facets1-fold, mirror-image symmetry96 indexL/W = 1.498 T/W = 0.830 U/W = 0.499P/W = 0.310 C/W = 0.234(G0 G9)/W = 1.498Vol./W³ = 0.325

CROWNG0 90.00° 96G1 90.00° 02-94G2 90.00° 08-88G3 90.00° 17-79G4 90.00° 23-73G5 90.00° 26-70G6 90.00° 28-68G7 90.00° 33-63G8 90.00° 39-57G9 90.00° 48

90.00° 01-9590.00° 05-9190.00° 13-8390.00° 20-7690.00° 25-7190.00° 27-6990.00° 31-6590.00° 35-6190.00° 42-54

T 0.00° Table

PAVILION1 30.01° 02-942 30.11° 08-883 33.79° 17-794 36.03° 23-735 35.68° 26-706 34.62° 28-687 33.08° 33-638 29.07° 39-579 28.15° 9610 28.33° 13-8311 34.00° 25-7112 31.86° 29-6713 20.00° 48

0.00° CuletCROWN

A 43.87° 02-94B 44.02° 08-88C 46.46° 17-79D 47.46° 23-73E 47.91° 26-70F 48.72° 28-68G 40.14° 33-63H 39.50° 39-57J 38.74° 96K 37.04° 13-83L 43.00° 25-71M 36.82° 31-65N 26.84° 48P 27.67° 06-90Q 27.30° 21-75R 31.66° 29-67S 21.22° 38-58

Based on article "Gems & Gemology" Winter 1990, GIA Crown based on published angles, Pavilion based ondiagram, Crown facets as published.(taken from lead model of stone)Worked to get pavillion facets to meet.C:\GEMCAD\DRES96.GEM

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Dresden Green CAM Preform new shapeDresden Green Replica CAM PreformCalculations by Robert W. Strickland 11/11/1998 Modified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.13019 + 36 girdles = 55 facets1-fold, mirror-image symmetry96 indexL/W = 1.498C/W = 0.287Vol./W³ = 0.636

PAVILIONG0 0.00° Culet

CROWNG0 90.00° 48G1 90.00° 46-50G2 90.00° 40-56G3 90.00° 31-65G4 90.00° 25-71G5 90.00° 22-74G6 90.00° 20-76G7 90.00° 15-81G8 90.00° 09-87G9 90.00° 96

90.00° 47-4990.00° 43-5390.00° 35-6190.00° 28-6890.00° 23-7390.00° 21-7590.00° 17-7990.00° 13-8390.00° 06-90

0 24.94° 481 24.71° 46-502 24.31° 40-563 26.89° 31-654 29.54° 25-715 30.21° 22-746 29.23° 20-767 24.43° 15-818 20.25° 09-879 18.00° 96

Based on an article in "Gems and Gemology," Winter,1998Crown based on angles. Pavilion based on diagram.C:\gemcad\Dres96pf.gem

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Dudley The Dudley, or Star of South Africa, is a 47.75-carat oval brilliant. This was the diamond that started the South Africa diamond rush. In 1869, an 83.50-carat rough stone was found by a shepherd boy on the farm, Zendfontein, near the Orange River. Schalk von Niekerk bought this stone from the shepherd with a large herd of sheep, some oxen, and a horse. This consumed almost all of von Niekerk’s fortune earned from just two years earlier when he found the 21.25 carat diamond, Eureka. Eureka translates from Greek to mean “I found it”. Only a few days after purchasing this 83.50-carat diamond found by that shepherd boy, von Niekerk sold it for $56,000. Thus the diamond rush began in South Africa with the rumors of these finds. Diamonds were found on farm lands, along side creeks, and by all kinds of people. When Louis Hood, a diamond cutter, purchased the 83.50-carat diamond, he cut it to the 47.75-carat oval, a three sided-brilliant, and named it the Star of South Africa. When the Countess of Dudley purchased the cut stone for $125,000, it became known as the Dudley, and was mounted in a hair pin along with almost one hundred other diamonds. In 1974 when the Dudley came up for sale, it sold for over 225,000 pounds. This Dudley replica was cut by Texas Faceters’ Guild member, Marvin Holbrook. A member since 1980, Marvin held the office of 2nd Vice President in the early years of the Guild.

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DudleyDudley Diamond Replica, 21*28 mm, 47.75 caratRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal November 1963Modified for CZ. Diagram modified by F.M. Holbrook 1995Angles for R.I. = 2.20064 + 18 girdles = 82 facets1-fold, mirror-image symmetry64 indexL/W = 1.336 T/W = 0.665 U/W = 0.538P/W = 0.444 C/W = 0.191Vol./W³ = 0.308

PAVILION1 39.21° 04-602 41.00° 12-523 41.20° 18-46g1 90.00° 14-50 Cut g1 & g2 = 21mm

(.75*length)4 43.79° 14-50 cut 51% up face (approx 7.3mm)5 43.19° 17-47g2 90.00° 17-47 Allow 60% top length & 40%

bottom5 43.09° 10-54

90.00° 10-546 42.09° 06-58

90.00° 06-5890.00° 02-62

7 40.90° 02-6290.00° 19-45

8 37.33° 23-41 Cut to approx 1.5 to 2mm fromculet

9 42.39° 19-4510 39.61° 22-42

90.00° 22-4290.00° 25-39

11 37.24° 25-39g12 90.00° 29-35 May want to cut to length

(28mm)

CROWN1 50.20° 14-502 43.00° 12-523 46.40° 17-474 40.71° 18-465 44.00° 19-456 38.20° 22-427 33.46° 23-418 34.00° 25-399 29.00° 29-3511 50.50° 10-5412 49.00° 06-5813 45.00° 02-6214 40.72° 04-6015 31.58° 16-4816 29.51° 21-43T 0.00° Table Table is approx 54% of width

(11.3mm)17 27.57° 08-5618 22.26° 64 Facet #18 & 19 may have to be

adjustedPAVILION

12 33.93° 29-3513 31.38° 32 May have to adjust cuts 12 &

13CROWN

10 24.68° 3219 20.16° 29-35

C:\GEMCAD\DUDLEY.GEM

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Dudley (Rounded)Dudley Replica, 21*28 mm, 47.75 caratsRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal November 1963Modified for CZ by F.M. Holbrook 1995Angles for R.I. = 2.15065 + 36 girdles = 101 facets1-fold, mirror-image symmetry64 indexL/W = 1.340 T/W = 0.738 U/W = 0.519P/W = 0.437 C/W = 0.190Vol./W³ = 0.316

PAVILIONg1 90.00° 14-50 Cut to width (make 21.5mm wide)g1 90.00° 17-47g2 90.00° 10-54 Level Girdleg3 90.00° 06-58 "g4 90.00° 02-62 "g5 90.00° 19-45 "g6 90.00° 22-42 "g7 90.00° 25-39 "g8 90.00° 29-35 "r1 90.00° 16-48 Facets r1-r10 will give a rounded

90.00° 12-52 appearance. Cut by eye approximately90.00° 08-56 1/4 - 1/3 up the face.90.00° 04-60

r5 90.00° 64r6 90.00° 18-46r7 90.00° 20-44r8 90.00° 23-41r9 90.00° 27-37g10 90.00° 32a 43.79° 14-50 cut to level girdleb 43.19° 17-47 "c 43.09° 10-54 "d 42.09° 06-58 "e 40.90° 02-62 "f 42.39° 19-45 "g 39.61° 22-42 "h 37.24° 25-39 "1 41.20° 18-462 41.00° 12-523 39.21° 04-604 37.33° 23-415 31.20° 32i 33.63° 29-35 "

0.00° Culet

CROWNb 42.85° 17-47 "c 48.42° 10-54 "d 47.62° 06-58 "e 44.53° 02-62 "f 41.67° 19-45 "g 38.20° 22-42 "h 35.48° 25-39 "i 31.72° 29-35 "1 38.37° 18-462 40.35° 12-523 39.35° 04-604 34.23° 23-415 27.76° 32a 45.75° 14-50A 27.75° 16-48B 28.53° 20-44T 0.00° Table Cut and polish tableC 26.23° 08-56D 25.68° 64 May have to change angle to meetE 18.79° 27-37 "

CAM Preform (see next page)C:\gemcad\Dudley round.gem

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Dudley CAM PreformDudley Replica preformSize is 21mm by 28mm (Pear shaped)Angles for CZ, C.A.=27.72Angles for R.I. = 2.15018 + 36 girdles = 54 facets1-fold, mirror-image symmetry64 indexL/W = 1.340C/W = 0.289Vol./W³ = 1.376

CROWNp1 30.00° 14-50 Temporary Center Pointp1 30.00° 17-47p2 29.35° 10-54 TCPp3 28.55° 06-58 TCPp4 27.72° 02-62 TCPp5 29.02° 19-45 TCPp6 26.18° 22-42 TCPp7 23.45° 25-39 TCPp8 20.90° 29-35 TCPg1 90.00° 14-50 Cut to width (make 21.7mm wide)g1 90.00° 17-47g2 90.00° 10-54 Level Girdleg3 90.00° 06-58 "g4 90.00° 02-62 "g5 90.00° 19-45 "g6 90.00° 22-42 "g7 90.00° 25-39 "g8 90.00° 29-35 "r1 90.00° 16-48 Facets r1-r10 will give a roundedr2 90.00° 12-52 appearance. Cut by eye approximatelyr3 90.00° 08-56 1/4 - 1/3 up the face.r4 90.00° 04-60r5 90.00° 64r6 90.00° 18-46r7 90.00° 20-44r8 90.00° 23-41r9 90.00° 27-37r10 90.00° 32

C:\gemcad\Dudpform.gem

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Empress Eugenie The Empress Eugenie is a 51-carat, perfectly cut oval-shaped diamond. In 1762, Empress Catherine II wore it as the center stone in a hair pin. As Catherine the Great, she gave it to Prince Gaigori Potemkin for his great loyalty and service to her. As well as the diamond, she gave him a title and a grand palace. Upon his death, the stone went to his niece. By then it was known as the Potemkin Diamond. From there, it was passed to her daughter, Princess Colorado, who sold the diamond in 1853 to Napoleon III. He gave it as a gift to his new wife, Eugenie de Montijo. They had it mounted in a necklace, and she named the diamond the Empress Eugenie after herself. During the fall of the French Empire, Empress Eugenie escaped to England. She took with her the Empress Eugenie diamond, along with many other gems. She later sold the Empress Eugenie diamond for $75,000 to the Gaekwar of Baroda. In 1874, after the Gaekwar attempted to murder a British resident using diamond dust for poison (which it is not), the Gaekwar was deposed only for mismanagement rather than for attempted murder. The Eugenie disappeared for years. It later appeared in the possession of a Mrs. Dady of India. But after Mrs. Dady’s death, its whereabouts became a mystery until 1993 when it was discovered to be privately owned by an individual living in Antwerp. The Empress Eugenie was cut by Greg Thompson, a long-time member of the Texas Faceters’ Guild as well as an active officer. The Eugenie was the first of two diamond replicas cut by Greg.

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Empress Eugenie PC 02.006Empress Eugenie Replica, 27*23 mm, 51 caratsRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal, August 1962Modified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.20065 + 42 girdles = 107 facets2-fold, mirror-image symmetry64 indexL/W = 1.167 T/W = 0.710 U/W = 0.627P/W = 0.566 C/W = 0.240Vol./W³ = 0.396

PAVILION1 40.00° 04-12-20-28-

36-44-52-602 43.98° 12-20-44-523 52.75° 04-28-36-604 47.00° 14-18-46-50g1 90.00° 10-11-13-14-

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g2 90.00° 06-26-38-58g3 90.00° 08-24-40-56g4 90.00° 64-32g5 90.00° 04-28-36-60g6 90.00° 05-27-37-59g7 90.00° 02-30-34-625 54.83° 03-29-35-616 53.87° 05-27-37-597 51.59° 08-24-40-56

CROWNa 50.00° 14-18-46-50b 42.00° 16-48c 25.00° 12-20-44-52d 0.00° Tablee 50.00° 10-22-42-54f 42.00° 08-24-40-56g 28.00° 02-30-34-62h 48.84° 64-32i 58.00° 03-29-35-61j 58.96° 02-30-34-62

Most recent information from Ian Balfour, 4th edition"Famous Diamonds" describes a "pear-shaped ovalbrilliant" with 120 facets. His photo shows regularcrown but thick, lumpy girdle/pavilion, "Mogul cut"C:\gemcad\EEUGENIE.Gem

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English Dresden This 119.5-carat diamond was discovered in 1857 in the Bagagem Mine in Minas Gerais, Brazil. Like the Cullinan, it too was thought to be only part of a larger crystal. The rough was purchased in Rio de Janeiro by a representative of E. H. Dresden, and transported to England. It was cut to a flawless and colorless, perfectly shaped, pear gem of 76.5 carats. Once compared to the Koh-i-Noor, the English Dresden is a truly clear brilliant diamond while the Koh-i-Noor is a yellowish color. Originally called the Dresden Drop, then shortened to the Dresden, and “English” added to the name later to prevent confusion with the Dresden Green. The English Dresden was shown to many with the hopes of selling this beauty, but no one was willing to pay the 40,000-pound asking price. In 1864, it sold to a wealthy English merchant living in India. He had just recently earned his fortune by selling cotton to the United States due to the shortage caused by the Civil War. Cotton was not being produced in abundance, and the merchant was able to sell cotton to them at a higher than normal price, providing himself with a great fortune. The merchant gave 40,000 pounds to an agent to purchase the English Dresden for him. The agent put 8,000 pounds in his own pocket and persuaded E.H. Dresden to take the lesser amount of 32,000 pounds. The merchant only lived a short time after buying his heart’s treasure. In selling his possessions after his death, the executors were able to sell the English Dresden for 40,000 pounds. It sold to the Gaekwar of Baroda, who also purchased the Star of the South diamond in 1867. The English Dresden diamond replica was cut by Hubert Rackets.

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English DresdenEnglish Dresden Replica 35*29 mm 76.5 caratsRef. Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal September 1962Modified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.20057 + 20 girdles = 77 facets1-fold, mirror-image symmetry64 indexL/W = 1.257 T/W = 0.487 U/W = 0.444P/W = 0.432 C/W = 0.186Vol./W³ = 0.273

PAVILION1 36.00° 64b 40.00° 16-48c 31.69° 32d 35.91° 24-40e 36.41° 08-56f 41.29° 04-60g 40.60° 05-59h 38.67° 11-53i 39.02° 17-47j 43.29° 19-45k 39.50° 22-42l 36.82° 26-38n 35.85° 28-36

CROWN90.00° 30-3490.00° 28-3690.00° 24-4090.00° 20-4490.00° 18-4690.00° 16-4890.00° 01-6390.00° 04-6090.00° 07-5790.00° 12-52

1 30.00° 12-522 33.00° 17-473 28.00° 24-40T 0.00° Table4 26.00° 645 23.00° 326 34.40° 16-487 32.12° 13-518 37.65° 08-569 34.64° 03-6110 28.95° 28-3611 29.10° 25-3912 35.50° 18-4613 34.44° 21-4314 17.53° 03-6115 25.23° 14-5016 19.57° 20-4417 19.97° 28-36

From a sketch in "Famous Diamonds" by Ian Balfourexpect a new diagram with a more pointed pear shapeC:\gemcad\EngDres.gem

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Great Mogul The Great Mogul was 787.50 carats in the rough. Wow! This diamond was found in India in the Kollur Mines near Golconda about 1650 and is said to be the third-largest stone of gem quality to be found. After the stone was cut, Tavernier, a diamond merchant who traveled into China many times during his life and wrote of his travels, said the Great Mogul resembled “half an egg cut through the middle”. He published its weight at 280 carats. The Great Mogul was a rose-cut, by Hortensio Borgio, a Venetian. Borgio did such a poor cutting job that rather than get paid for his work, he was fined his entire fortune. The size of the Great Mogul is estimated to have been 39 mm in diameter and 33 mm high from table to culet as described by Tom R. Barbour, C.G. during a series in the Lapidary Journal in the early 1960’s. This diamond was named for Shah Jehan, builder of the Taj Mahal and was believed to have been set in his famous Peacock Throne. The throne contained approximately 108 huge rubies and 116 emeralds with a canopy covered on the inside with diamonds and pearls, the gold body of a peacock inlaid with precious stones with the fanned tail of sapphires and colored stones, a large ruby on its breast with a 50-carat pear-shaped pearl hanging from it. The throne was destroyed when Nadir Shah of Persia conquered India in 1739; keeping some of its stones while selling or trading others. Because the whereabouts of the Great Mogul is unknown, there has been speculation the Great Mogul is really the Orloff. The Orloff at 189.6 carats with a surface flaw and the Great Mogul at 279.5 carats with a flaw on its edge, are both described as a rose cut with a faint blue tint. This replica was cut by J. O. Little, a member of the Texas Faceters’ Guild.

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Great Mogul PC 01.325Great Mogul Replica, 39 mm round, 280 caratsRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal June 1960Modified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.200221 facets20-fold radial symmetry80 indexL/W = 1.000H/W = 0.724Vol./W³ = 0.351

PAVILION1 75.00° 02-06-10-14-18-22-26-30-

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b 0.00° Culet

CROWN1 84.00° 02-06-10-14-18-22-26-30-

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2 80.00° 80-04-08-12-16-20-24-28-32-36-40-44-48-52-56-60-64-68-72-76

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4 66.00° 02-06-10-14-18-22-26-30-34-38-42-46-50-54-58-62-66-70-74-78

5 60.00° 02-06-10-14-18-22-26-30-34-38-42-46-50-54-58-62-66-70-74-78

6 56.00° 80-04-08-12-16-20-24-28-32-36-40-44-48-52-56-60-64-68-72-76

7 53.00° 80-04-08-12-16-20-24-28-32-36-40-44-48-52-56-60-64-68-72-76

8 49.00° 02-06-10-14-18-22-26-30-34-38-42-46-50-54-58-62-66-70-74-78

9 44.00° 02-06-10-14-18-22-26-30-34-38-42-46-50-54-58-62-66-70-74-78

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C:\gemcad\GRTMOGUL.Gem

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Hope The Tavernier Blue, or Blue Diamond of the Crown are two other names for this beautiful blue diamond. Originally a 112-carat sapphire-like dark blue diamond seemingly shrouded by misfortune. It was found in the Kollus Mine near Golconda in the mid 17th century. In 1669, Jean Baptiste Tavernier bought a dark blue stone which he then sold to Louis XIV of France shortly after he returned from the Orient. It is believed he did not buy it while in India, but rather from Venice on his way back to France. Originally called the Tavernier Blue, it was the first item on a list of twenty-five diamonds he sold to Louis XIV. It was first cut to achieve the most weight as is typical of a stone cut in India. When purchasing the Hope, Louis XIV also purchased forty-four other large diamonds and 1122 smaller ones for a total over 897 livres. With these and other purchases of jewels, it is no wonder the Crown Jewels of France became the finest collection in the world. The Tavernier Blue remained as Louis XIV purchased it until 1675, when he had it recut. It then became a heart-shaped diamond weighing 69 carats. It was now given the name “The Blue Diamond of the Crown”. Louis XIV was seen wearing a large blue diamond suspended from a ribbon, as well as many other jewels said to be valued at over 12,000,000 livres. Louis XIV’s practice of setting jewels in insignia of orders of chivalry was a custom carried on after his death by his great-grandson, now Louis XV. In 1749, Louis XV had the Blue Diamond and the Cote de Bretagne spinel mounted

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in the decoration of the Golden Fleece, considered to be a masterpiece of jewelry art and of great value. This same blue diamond was also worn by Louis XVI, who became king in 1774. His wife, Maria Antoinette, who loved jewelry, liked to use her gemstones as flowers or feathers rather than ornaments. It was never thought that she worn the Blue diamond, but that it had probably remained in the Golden Fleece. As his reign began, so did the turmoil and unrest in his country. He was so uninterested in the happenings of the country, that on July 14, 1789 when Bastille fell, he wrote only the word “nothing” in his diary. In 1791, the Blue Diamond was said to be worth 3,000,000 francs. The jewels became part of an exhibit at the Garde Meuble where on certain days the public were allowed to view them. But on September 16, 1792, thieves broke into the Garde Meuble and stole the jewels, to include the Blue Diamond. It disappeared, never to be seen again in the same shape. It is speculated that the diamond found its way into a Spanish Royal family. In 1808, Charles IV was forced to leave his country and concede power to Joseph Bonaparte. It is believed Charles took the diamond with him into exile to France and Italy. He then finally arrived in London after going through Amsterdam where he had the Blue Diamond cut to 44.5 carats. Early in the 19th century, a dark blue diamond appeared in London under mysterious circumstances. The Blue Diamond became the Hope diamond when it was purchased by Henry Phillip Hope the exact date of this purchase is not known. Henry Hope’s wealth flourished until 1813 when he sold all his business assets to Alexander Baring for 250,521 pounds. Before this decline, Hope had his collection of gems inventoried; it was said to be worth over 150,000 pounds and included many colored diamonds. In 1839 when he died, having no wife or children of his own, his fortune was left to his three nephews. Henry Thomas Hope bought the Hope diamond from his uncle’s estate. It remained in the Hope family until 1901 when it sold to Adolf Weil, who intended to carry it to America. It passed through many owners until November 1958. After owning the Hope for nine years, Harry Winston presented the Hope Diamond to the Smithsonian Institute, saying he hoped this was the beginning of a great collection. The Hope Diamond replica was cut by Walter Carss.

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Hope PF 09.006Modern Hope Replica 26.7*23.2 mm, 44.5 caratsRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal, August 1961Angles appear suitable for CZ or QuartzAngles for R.I. = 1.54058 + 40 girdles = 98 facets1-fold, mirror-image symmetry96 indexL/W = 1.181 T/W = 0.696 U/W = 0.527H/W = 0.689Vol./W³ = 0.313

PAVILION90.00° 9690.00° 06-9090.00° 08-8890.00° 10-8690.00° 12-8490.00° 14-8290.00° 16-8090.00° 18-7890.00° 20-7690.00° 22-7490.00° 24-26-28-30-

33-63-66-68-70-72

90.00° 36-6090.00° 37-5990.00° 40-5690.00° 42-5490.00° 43-5390.00° 48

1 40.80° 12-24-72-842 45.00° 96-483 39.70° 36-60

0.00° Culet4 48.00° 02-46-50-945 45.60° 08-886 43.50° 15-817 43.00° 22-26-70-748 41.70° 33-639 45.12° 41-55

CROWNA 41.00° 48A 38.43° 96B 38.03° 24-72C 43.00° 12-84D 38.70° 36-60F 48.50° 09-87E 48.44° 03-93G 49.95° 15-81H 52.48° 20-76J 46.05° 27-69K 44.30° 33-63L 49.24° 41-55M 47.30° 46-50N 21.73° 44-52P 29.00° 28-68Q 28.72° 20-76R 25.00° 02-94

0.00° Table

Gems & Gemology, Summer 1989, GIA indicates new dimensions and weight 25.6X21.78X12.00 mm, 45.52 caratsFuture modifications to this replica can be expectedPresent diagram has poor outline shapeC:\gemcad\HopelongA.gem

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Jonker In an alluvial deposit on his farm near Pretoria, South Africa, in January 1934, Jacobus Jonker found a 726-carat diamond, beautifully pure. He sold it to the Diamond Producers Association for a mere $315,000. Years earlier, the Cullinan diamond, over four times as large as the Jonker, sold for only $775,000. Hmmm. Harry Winston purchased the Jonker for $700,000 in 1935. He had it cut by Lazare Kaplan. Eleven emerald cuts and a marquise were the product of this beautiful diamond. The largest of these was a 66-facet, emerald cut of 142.90-carats. It was recut in 1937, resulting in a very fine emerald cut of 125 carats. That 125-carat stone valued at one million dollars, was sold to King Farouk of Egypt in 1951. When the King went into exile in 1952, the stone disappeared. When rumors began that a certain Queen Ratna of Nepal was wearing it, it was discovered that King Farouk had sold it to the country of Nepal. Some years ago, it sold again privately in Hong Kong for $2,250,000. This Jonker replica was cut by Texas Faceters’ Guild member Bill Cox, a member of the Guild since 1981.

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Jonker PC 07.008Jonker Replica, 36*33 mm, 125.65 carats (Barbour)Ref: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal January 1963Mod for CZ August 2000 by Greg Thompson/Hubert RacketsAngles for R.I. = 2.15058 + 8 girdles = 66 facets2-fold, mirror-image symmetry64 indexL/W = 1.091 T/W = 0.637 U/W = 0.546P/W = 0.592 C/W = 0.240Vol./W³ = 0.454

PAVILIONG1 90.00° 64-32G2 90.00° 16-481 55.00° 64-322 50.00° 08-24-40-564 51.00° 64-325 48.00° 08-24-40-566 58.00° 16-487 47.00° 64-328 46.00° 08-24-40-569 43.00° 64-3210 43.00° 08-24-40-5611 44.36° 16-4812 42.35° 16-48G3 90.00° 08-24-40-56

PAVILIONa 62.74° 16-48

0.00° CuletCROWN

G1 55.00° 64-32b 55.00° 08-24-40-56c 42.00° 64-32d 55.00° 16-48e 42.00° 08-24-40-56f 42.00° 16-48g 30.00° 08-24-40-56h 30.00° 64-32i 30.00° 16-48T 0.00° Table

Jonker 1 Color D,VVS1.Ian Balfour, "Famous Diamonds" 4th edition, statesinitial 66 facet emerald cut, 33.7X30.8 mm 142.90caratsside/width=0.707, cut corner/width=0.226C:\gemcad\JonkrmodA.gem

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Jubilee A rough diamond of some 650.8 carats was found in 1895 at the Jagersfontein Mine, South Africa. This diamond rough, along with that of the Excelsior, was purchased by a group of London diamond merchants in 1896. It was first called the Reitz diamond, after William Reitz, president of the Orange Free State, where the Jagersfontein Mine was located. In 1896, the diamond was sent to Amsterdam to be cut by Barends. The first piece cleaved from the rough was 40 carats, from which was later cut a 15.54-carat pear-shaped stone. The rest of the rough later became the Jubilee. The cutter soon saw this would be a beautiful diamond of exceptional size and clarity; a colorless cushion-cut diamond weighing 245.55 carats. Originally the diamond was to go to Queen Victoria, but instead remained with its owners. 1897 marked the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria, so the diamond was named Jubilee in honor of the Queen. In 1900, the Jubilee was displayed in Paris and valued at some 7,000,000 francs. It was purchased by Sir Dorabji Jamsetji Tata, an Indian industrialist. Tata was responsible for forming a viable iron and steel industry in India where his father had formed a successful cotton industry. Three years after Tata’s death in 1932, Cartier tried to negotiate a deal for his heirs. A deal offering the Jubilee, then valued at about 714,000 pounds, to the Gaekwar of Baroda. The sale did not go through, and in 1937 Cartier sold the Jubilee to M. Paul-Louis Weller, a Paris industrialist. He has exhibited the Jubilee in several places, including Washington, D.C. and Geneva, and the DeBeers Diamond Pavilion in Johannesburg. This Jubilee diamond replica was cut by Walter Carss, a member since 1981.

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JubileeJubilee Replica, 44*37 mm, 245.0 caratsRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal, August 1960Diagram for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.15057 + 24 girdles = 81 facets2-fold, mirror-image symmetry64 indexL/W = 1.189 T/W = 0.688 U/W = 0.502P/W = 0.467 C/W = 0.224Vol./W³ = 0.318

PAVILIONg1 90.00° 01-31-33-63 See preform

instructionsg2 90.00° 06-26-38-58 "g3 90.00° 10-22-42-54 "g4 90.00° 14-18-46-50 "1 43.90° 01-31-33-63 Form girdle (cut to

centerpoint)2 43.00° 64-32 cut to meet at

girdle3 39.70° 06-26-38-58 Level girdle with

cut 1 **note 14 38.90° 10-22-42-54 Level girdle with

cut 3 **note 15 38.10° 08-24-40-56 Cut to girdle to

form culet6 39.60° 14-18-46-50 Level girdle with

cut 47 38.10° 16-48 Cut to girdle &

culet **note 1

CROWNa 46.10° 01-31-33-63 Establish girdle

thicknessb 42.00° 64-32 Cut to girdlec 42.30° 06-26-38-58 Cut to level girdled 43.00° 10-22-42-54 cut to level girdlee 38.40° 08-24-40-56 Cut to girdle, meet

with a b & cf 47.00° 14-18-46-50 Cut to level girdleg 41.80° 16-48 Cut to girdle, meet

with d e & fh 25.00° 03-29-35-61 Cut to meet with a &

cT 0.00° Table Cut to meet with b &

hi 27.50° 12-20-44-52 Meet d&f, also h&e

(may have to cheat)90.00° 12-20-44-52 Smallfacets,optional for round effect90.00° 03-29-35-61 "

New outline, Jubilee has apex facets (faceted crown)C:\gemcad\Jubilee.gem

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Jubilee PreformJubilee Replica preform 44*37 mmRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal August 1960Modified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.15016 + 16 girdles = 32 facets2-fold, mirror-image symmetry64 indexL/W = 1.189C/W = 0.287Vol./W³ = 0.808

CROWN1 30.00° 01-31-33-63 Cut to centerpoint2 26.60° 06-26-38-58 "3 25.80° 10-22-42-54 "4 26.20° 14-18-46-50 "g1 90.00° 01-31-33-63 Fix stone width,

37mmg2 90.00° 06-26-38-58 Level girdleg3 90.00° 10-22-42-54 "g4 90.00° 14-18-46-50 "

C:\gemcad\Jubilepf.gem

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Koh-i-Noor The Victorians claim the Koh-i-Nor, a 200-carat diamond is the oldest diamond. It was found by the Godaveri River, and held as a sacred treasure by the rajahs in Maliva, India. The diamond was seized by the Moguls when they invaded the territory, and it came into the hands of Sultan Baber, the establisher of the Mogul Empire of India. As a diary keeper he wrote in his diary in May 1526, speaking of a famous diamond so valuable, it would pay “half the expenses of the world”. The Koh-i-Noor remained for almost two centuries with the Moguls until all their jewels were seized by the Persians. The Persians boasted of having possession of the “most famous diamond in history.” In 1739, the Shah of Persia invaded India and captured the Mogul Palace. He searched for fifty-eight days, looking for the famous diamond. Finally he was told by a woman the diamond was hidden in the fold of the emperor’s turban. At that time, it was not customary to attack enemy leaders personally, so he decided to take advantage of an old Oriental tradition. He invited the emperor to a banquet to celebrate Persian victory. At dinner, he suggested the two leaders exchange turbans. Even while suggesting this exchange, he began removing his turban adorned with gems, and the turban of the other and placed his turban on the head of the emperor and the emperor’s on his own head. Because the emperor showed no emotion, the

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Shah was afraid he had been tricked. Almost immediately, he left the room and proceeded to his own tent. He unrolled the silk to find the single great diamond. He softly spoke, “Koh-i-Noor, Mountain of Light”, renaming the stone. It was his most treasured of many stones. When he died, the stone went to his son, who was tortured to death rather than give it up. When the son died, the stone went to a friend, who lost it to Afghans, then to Sikhs, the treasury of Lahore, then to British India in 1849. It was taken to London and presented to Queen Victoria in 1850. From its original size of 280 carats, it was whittled down to 187 carats in hopes of improving its brilliance, but the job was so poorly done that it showed little improvement. Once again it was put before the knife. Mr. Voorsanger, thought to be the ablest cutter of Amsterdam’s famed Coster plant, took thirty-eight days to recut it. Another 78 carats were lost, but still the stone gained almost nothing in brilliance. Because of its lack of spectacular beauty, it was not placed in the crown or in a scepter, but rather placed on exhibit in Windsor Castle for tourists to view. Occasionally, Queen Victoria would wear the Koh-i-Noor as a brooch. Later, she gave it to her daughter-in-law, Queen Alexandra. She wore it during her coronation, but even at 108.95 carats, it did not become a symbol of power until 1911 when it was placed in the center of Queen Mary’s crown. In 1937 it was placed in the crown of Queen Elizabeth which she wore during the coronation of her husband, King George VI. It remains part of the British Crown Jewels and is on permanent display in the Jewel House at the Tower of London. The size of the Koh-i-Noor is estimated to be 32 mm wide by 36 mm long and 19 mm high from the table to the culet. These dimensions are smaller than the original stone at 186 carats since it was cut to this smaller size of 108.93 carats in hopes of enhancing its brilliance. This Koh-i-Noor replica was cut by Earnest Thaxton, Texas Faceters’ Guild member.

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Koh-i-Noor ReplicaAngles for R.I. = 2.20066 + 20 girdles = 86 facets2-fold, mirror-image symmetry96 indexL/W = 1.139 T/W = 0.557 U/W = 0.499P/W = 0.277 C/W = 0.096Vol./W³ = 0.166

PAVILION90.00° 22-26-70-7490.00° 01-47-49-9590.00° 04-44-52-9290.00° 15-33-63-8190.00° 10-38-58-8633.61° 96-4830.26° 24-7231.53° 12-36-60-8424.64° 19-29-67-7736.48° 15-33-63-8133.52° 22-26-70-74 0.00° Culet26.00° 06-42-54-9038.73° 09-39-57-8741.81° 03-45-51-93

CROWN20.00° 96-4820.00° 12-36-60-8417.21° 24-7211.97° 20-28-68-7611.04° 04-44-52-92 0.00° Table24.78° 03-45-51-9322.33° 10-38-58-8621.31° 14-34-62-8218.06° 23-25-71-73

C:\gemcad\Kohia.gem

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Koh-i-Noor Replica,need recalc size 105.6 caratsRef: Ian Balfour, "Famous Diamonds" 1st editionModified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.20066 + 24 girdles = 90 facets2-fold, mirror-image symmetry96 indexL/W = 1.143 T/W = 0.559 U/W = 0.501P/W = 0.399 C/W = 0.158Vol./W³ = 0.257

PAVILIONg1 90.00° 22-26-70-74g2 90.00° 15-33-63-81g3 90.00° 10-38-58-861 44.00° 96-482 40.29° 24-723 41.72° 12-36-60-844 33.68° 19-29-67-776 47.06° 15-33-63-817 43.90° 22-26-70-748 0.00° Culet5 35.32° 06-42-54-909 49.36° 09-39-57-8710 52.42° 03-45-51-93

CROWNa 32.00° 96-48b 32.00° 12-36-60-84c 28.00° 24-72d 20.00° 20-28-68-76e 18.52° 04-44-52-92j 0.00° Tablef 38.40° 03-45-51-93g 35.20° 10-38-58-86h 33.82° 14-34-62-82i 29.24° 23-25-71-73g6 90.00° 03-45-51-93g5 90.00° 01-47-49-95g4 90.00° 07-41-55-89

New size calculated by Greg Thompson thru Gemcad Feb 2000. Based on photograph from "Famous Diamonds"Angle changes would be necessary for a more brilliantstone Diagram included. Koh-I-Noor appears 12mm DEEP !C:\gemcad\Kohia1.gem

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Nassak First seen as an 89.59-carat, colorless, flawless diamond, cut into a triangular shape. The original size of the rough is not known. The Eye of Shiva, as it was originally called, was set in the eye of the Goddess Shiva statue in a Hindu Temple near Nasik, India. In 1818, India and Britain were fighting the Mahratta Wars. After the final war, with Britain defeating the last remaining Peshwa, though an attempt was made to hide this diamond, it was discovered and seized by the British and presented to the Marquees of Hastings as part of the “Deccan booty”. Hastings presented it to the East India Company. It arrived in England a time later, then a triangular-cut diamond of about 89 carats. It was recut to 80.50 carats by a London cutter to enhance its brilliance and then valued at $150,000. At this time it was renamed the Nassak. In 1831, during a serious depression, the Nassak sold for a mere $36,000. In 1837, the Marquis of Westminster bought the Nassak and mounted it in his dress sword. It remained in his family for almost one hundred years. In 1926, a Paris jeweler purchased it and took it to America to be displayed as an artistic antique. In 1927, Harry Winston, a New York gem dealer, bought the diamond and had it recut to a more modern emerald cut, decreasing its size to approximately 44 carats. With this new cut, the diamond lost some of its brilliance, but was still a beautiful, flawless, colorless diamond. In 1944, it was purchased by Mrs. William Leeds of New York who had it set in a ring along with two tapered diamond baguettes. In 1970, at auction, an American buyer purchased the Nassak for $500,000. The King of Saudi Arabia acquired the Nassak in 1977. This Nassak diamond replica was cut by Charles Covill and was one of the first eight diamond replicas cut and exhibited by the Guild.

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Nassak Nassak Replica, 30*28 mm, 80.50 caratsRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal, March 1962 Modified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.15058 + 17 girdles = 75 facets1-fold, mirror-image symmetry96 indexL/W = 1.069 T/W = 0.511 U/W = 0.483P/W = 0.471 C/W = 0.199Vol./W³ = 0.267

PAVILIONg1 90.00° 02-94 Cut all facetsg2 90.00° 06-90 to meet atg3 90.00° 09-87g4 90.00° 26-70 false culetg5 90.00° 31-65g6 90.00° 36-60g7 90.00° 39-57g9 90.00° 18-78 Set L/W1 54.50° 96 Set girdle2 56.42° 02-94 meet 1 at g13 55.00° 06-90 Cont. level girdle4 46.11° 96 Meet 1,2 & 35 42.54° 08-88 Meet 1,2 & 36 38.62° 27-69 meet 4 & 57 38.48° 36-60 Meet4,5 & 68 52.02° 08-88 Meet 1,2,3,4 & 59 52.26° 09-87 Cont. girdle10 50.68° 26-70 meet 5,6,8 & 911 49.85° 27-69 Meet 5,6,8,9 & 1012 54.68° 31-65 Meet 6 Cont girdle13 53.05° 36-60 Meet 6 Cont girdle14 51.18° 37-59 Meet 6,7,11,12 & 1315 52.03° 39.0-57.0 Meet 7 & 14

PAVILION1 0.00° Culetg9 90.00° 48

CROWNg1 50.00° 02-94 Start girdle2 42.00° 05-91 Meet 1 at g1 & g23 43.33° 06-90 meet1 & 2 at Girdle.4 40.86° 09-87 meet 3 at girdle5 30.36° 96 meet 1 & 26 32.49° 09-87 Meet 2,3 & 47 35.69° 11-85 meet 2,3,4,& 68 53.10° 26-70 Cont. girdlet 0.00° Table meet 2,5 & 69 19.67° 26-70 Weet 7&8. Meet 6 & 710 47.03° 31-65 Meet 7,8 &9. Level girdle11 42.94° 32-64 meet 7,8,9 & 10. meet 10

at girdle.12 53.57° 36-60 Meet 11 at girdle13 53.25° 39-57 finish girdle14 16.04° 39-57 Meet 11,12 & 13.Also meet

9 & 1115 33.00° 48 Meet 11,12,13 & 14.Also

meet girdle.

Preform diagram see next pageDiagram modified by Charles CovillC:\gemcad\Nassak-2.gem

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Nassak (preform)Nassak Replica preform 30*28 mmRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal March 1962Mod for CZ Redrawn by F.M.Holbrook has faceted girdleAngles for R.I. = 2.15014 + 17 girdles = 31 facets1-fold, mirror-image symmetry96 indexL/W = 1.073C/W = 0.357Vol./W³ = 0.649

CROWN1 41.00° 02-94 Cut all facets to

center point2 39.39° 06-903 37.18° 09-874 35.00° 26-705 36.75° 31-655 36.71° 36-606 35.33° 39-57g1 90.00° 02-94g2 90.00° 06-90g3 90.00° 09-87 Girdle 3 & 4 will

establish stone sizeg4 90.00° 26-70 cut g3 & g4 to 30 mmg5 90.00° 31-65g5 90.00° 36-60g6 90.00° 39-57g7 90.00° 18-78

90.00° 48

C:\gemcad\Nasskpfr.gem

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Pasha of Egypt In the first written history of this diamond, it was described as a 41.06-carat octagonal-shaped brilliant cut stone, (an old mine cut) from India. When it was purchased in 1848 by the Egyptian Viceroy Ibrahim Pasha for 28,000 pounds, it was said to be the most magnificent diamond in their treasury. In 1863 Ibrahim became the ruler of Egypt, and the country exploded in economic growth. But this growth produced a tremendous debt of over 100,000,000 pounds. The Sultan of the Ottoman Empire decided in the best interest of the country, Ibrahim should be removed. In 1879 when he went into exile, he carried with him many of his greatest treasures, one of which was the Pasha of Egypt. Ibrahim later sold the Pasha to an Englishman, name unknown, who offered it for sale. In 1933, it sold to King Farouk and once again returned to Egypt. Sold again to Italian jewelers, it was then sold to an American millionairess. Because she was unhappy with the octagonal shape, she had it cut to 38.19 carats and mounted in a ring. It was cut again, down to a 36.22-carat flawless, D-color, sixteen-sided brilliant cut gemstone. Said to be privately owned, its exact location, whether Italy or England, cannot be established. The Pasha of Egypt replica was cut by Sister Clement Johnson.

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Pasha of EgyptPasha of Egypt Replica, 26*26 mm, 40.0 caratsRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal, December 1962Modified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.20065 + 16 girdles = 81 facets8-fold, mirror-image symmetry96 indexL/W = 1.000 T/W = 0.679 U/W = 0.679P/W = 0.567 C/W = 0.188Vol./W³ = 0.292

PAVILIONg1 90.00° 02-10-14-22- Cut to stone size,

26-34-38-46- 26mm50-58-62-70-74-82-86-94

1 53.09° 02-10-14-22-26-34-38-46-50-58-62-70-74-82-86-94

2 51.76° 96-12-24-36-48-60-72-84

3 41.00° 06-18-30-42-54-66-78-90

CROWN1 57.89° 02-10-14-22-

26-34-38-46-50-58-62-70-74-82-86-94

2 49.50° 96-12-24-36-48-60-72-84

3 32.79° 06-18-30-42-54-66-78-90

T 0.00° Table

C:\gemcad\Pasegypt.gem

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Pigot An oval-cut diamond of fine quality, the Pigot, was named for Baron George Pigot, a British Colonial Governor of Madras, India in the middle 1700s. This beautiful 48.63-carat diamond was thought to have been a gift to Pigot from a Prince in India during 1763. Upon his death, the Pigot was willed to his sister and two brothers. Soon sold by the family, it showed up in 1801 as the prize in a lottery, thus the nickname, the Lottery Diamond. The Pigot changed hands several times, even thought to have belonged to Madame Bonaparte, Napoleon’s mother. In 1818 it was purchased by the ruler of Albania, Ali Pasha of Janina for some $150,000 from a London Jewelry company. So in love with his acquisition, he carried it on his person, wrapped in a green silk bag, showing it to almost no one. In 1822, the Sultan of Turkey, the overlord of Albania and Ali Pasha, became concerned for Ali Pasha’s growing control of the country. The Sultan sent an ambassador to plead with Ali Pasha to surrender. The Pasha, even at 80 years old would not give up easily. A fight ensued and the Pasha was wounded. As he lay dying, he begged for two things, the destruction of the Pigot diamond and the death of his wife. It is told he watched as the Pigot was crushed before his eyes, but died before he knew if his wife was killed. She did escape. Even though there is no proof the Pigot was truly destroyed, its whereabouts are unknown and it is assumed his wish was carried out. The Pigot diamond replica was cut by Howell Kilgore.

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PigotPigot Replica, 30*35 mm, 48.63 caratsRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal, February 1963Modified for CZ by Robert W. Strickland, August 5, 1995Angles for R.I. = 2.15058 + 32 girdles = 90 facets2-fold, mirror-image symmetry96 indexL/W = 1.171 T/W = 0.687 U/W = 0.551P/W = 0.442 C/W = 0.167Vol./W³ = 0.292

PAVILION1 44.20° 01-47-49-95 Used on Preform &

final cutg1 90.00° 01-47-49-95 cut to level girdleg2 90.00° 09-39-57-87 "g3 90.00° 15-33-63-81 "g4 90.00° 21-27-69-75 "g5 90.00° 96-48 cut 1/3 to next meet

point/round girdleg6 90.00° 06-42-54-90 "g7 90.00° 12-36-60-84g8 90.00° 18-30-66-78g8 90.00° 24-722 40.90° 09-39-57-87 Meet Girdle Line3 39.80° 15-33-63-81 "4 39.30° 21-27-69-75 "a 38.00° 18-30-66-78b 40.00° 05-43-53-91

0.00° Culet About 1.5mm

CROWNA 47.90° 01-47-49-95B 41.80° 09-39-57-87 Level girdleC 41.40° 15-33-63-81 "D 41.80° 21-27-69-75 "E 35.00° 18-30-66-78F 33.70° 05-43-53-91G 21.20° 96-48H 19.00° 11-37-59-85T 0.00° TableI 23.51° 24-72 May have to change

angle to meet H&E

Barbour's size of 30*35 seems based on rough carat weight, rather than 48.63 carats finished stoneC:\gemcad\Pigot.gem

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Pigot Replica (By Robert W Strickland)Pigot Replica preform 30*35 mmRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal Februry 1963Modified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.15016 + 32 girdles = 48 facets2-fold, mirror-image symmetry96 indexL/W = 1.171C/W = 0.493Vol./W³ = 0.873

CROWNp1 44.20° 01-47-49-95 Used on Preform &

final cutp2 41.50° 09-39-57-87 Temporary Center

Pointp3 40.60° 15-33-63-81 TCPp4 40.10° 21-27-69-75 TCPg1 90.00° 01-47-49-95 cut to level girdle,

30.4mm wideg2 90.00° 09-39-57-87 "g3 90.00° 15-33-63-81 "g4 90.00° 21-27-69-75 "g5 90.00° 96-48 cut approx 1/3 to

next point.round girdg6 90.00° 06-42-54-90 "g7 90.00° 12-36-60-84g8 90.00° 18-30-66-78

90.00° 24-72

C:\gemcad\Pigotpfr.gem

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Polar Star The original size of this rough diamond is not known. So little history is known before it was first described as a cushion-shaped diamond of 41.29 carats; it was thought to be from India. Called the Polar Star because of the eight-point star, cut on the pavilion with symmetry so perfect, it can be balanced on its cutlet. It belonged to Joseph Bonaparte, Napoleon I’s oldest brother, while he was King of Spain and Italy. He purchased the Polar Star from an unknown source. After losing his kingdom, he sold the Polar Star to a Russian Princess, Tatiana Youssoupov, sometime during the 1820s. A Russian family of great wealth, they also purchased the famous Pelegrina pearl as well as many other treasures. The Polar Star remained in her family for over one hundred years. Sometime during the 1920s, the family sold it and other jewels to Cartier of Paris, and in the 1980s the Polar Star was sold to a gem dealer from Sri Lanka for eight million Swiss Francs. The Polar Star diamond replica was cut by Johnny Coultrup, a Charter Member of the Texas Faceters’ Guild.

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Polar Star Polar Star Replica, 22*24 mm, 41.29 caratsRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal, June 1963Modified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.15065 + 16 girdles = 81 facets2-fold, mirror-image symmetry64 indexL/W = 1.090 T/W = 0.611 U/W = 0.503P/W = 0.568 C/W = 0.214Vol./W³ = 0.347

PAVILIONg1 90.00° 15-17-47-49 See preform instructionsg2 90.00° 02-30-34-62 Stone size is 22 X 24g3 90.00° 05-27-37-59g4 90.00° 12-20-44-521 53.00° 02-30-34-62 Establish Girdle line2 50.24° 05-27-37-59 Level girdle3 52.52° 12-20-44-524 56.66° 15-17-47-495 50.81° 64-32 Cut to girdle, meet 1 & 26 46.43° 08-24-40-56 Cut to girdle, meet 1 2 3

& 47 55.67° 16-48 Cut to girdle, meet 3 & 48 38.81° 64-32 Cut to 1 2 & 5, establish

culet9 39.43° 08-24-40-56 Meet 1 2 3 4 and at culet10 38.01° 16-48 Meet 6 3 4 7 and culet

CROWN1 50.00° 02-30-34-62 Establish girdle thickness2 45.94° 05-27-37-59 Level girdle3 41.96° 12-20-44-524 44.65° 15-17-47-495 41.78° 64-32 Cut to girdle, meet 1 & 26 35.37° 09-23-41-55 Cut to girdle, meet 1 2 3

& 47 40.76° 16-48 Cut to girdle, meet 3 & 48 27.55° 13-19-45-51 Meet 3 & 49 26.50° 04-28-36-60 Meet 1 2 & 8T 0.00° Table Meet 5 6 & 7

An updated diagram with larger table new pavilion facetC:\gemcad\Polarstr.gem

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Polar Star preformPolar Star Replica preform 22*24 mmRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal June 1963Modified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.15016 + 16 girdles = 32 facets2-fold, mirror-image symmetry64 indexL/W = 1.089C/W = 0.288Vol./W³ = 0.641

CROWN1 30.00° 15.0-17.0-

47.0-49.02 28.31° 02-30-34-623 26.96° 05-27-37-594 27.76° 12-20-44-52g1 90.00° 15-17-47-49 Cut to width, 22mmg2 90.00° 02-30-34-62 Cut to length, 24mmg3 90.00° 05-27-37-59g4 90.00° 12-20-44-52

C:\gemcad\Polstrpf.gem

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Polar Star new designPolar Star Replica, 41.28 caratsRef: Ian Balfour, "Famous Diamonds" 4th editionModified for CZ Angles for R.I. = 2.20090 + 24 girdles = 114 facets4-fold, mirror-image symmetry96 indexL/W = 1.000 T/W = 0.082 U/W = 0.082P/W = 0.200 C/W = 0.410Vol./W³ = 0.291

PAVILION90.00° 01-23-25-47-

49-71-73-9590.00° 08-16-32-40-

56-64-80-8890.00° 04-20-28-44-

52-68-76-9245.00° 96-24-48-7249.00° 01-23-25-47-

49-71-73-9543.00° 12-36-60-8432.00° 03-21-27-45-

51-69-75-93 0.00° Culet50.88° 04-20-28-44-

52-68-76-92

PAVILION50.01° 08-16-32-40-

56-64-80-88CROWN

47.03° 96-24-48-7242.32° 12-36-60-8435.92° 04-20-28-44-

52-68-76-9250.13° 01-23-25-47-

49-71-73-9550.55° 04-20-28-44-

52-68-76-9248.64° 08-16-32-40-

56-64-80-88CROWN

0.00° Table34.30° 96-24-48-7231.15° 12-36-60-84

New pavillion and outline from Ian Balfour's photosfrom "Famous Diamonds" Gemcad by Greg ThompsonJanuary 2001 C:\gemcad\PolStar.gem

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Regent The finest diamond in the French crown. The Regent was found in the Parteal Mine on the River Krishna in 1698. At 410 carats, it is said to be one of the largest diamonds found in India. Several stories are told of how the diamond made its way into the world. One story told about a slave, Saint-Simons, employed by the Great Mughal mines, who concealed the diamond in his private parts so he could get it out of the mine. Another tells where the slave who found the diamond wounded himself so he could conceal the diamond behind the bandage. He then offered the diamond to the captain of an English ship, and in return he asked for his freedom. The captain took the slave on board, took his diamond, then threw the slave overboard. The diamond was then sold to Thomas Pitt for 1,000 pounds. The captain took his ill-gotten gains, spent them on foolish excesses for himself, then took his own life after murdering another. The legend as told by Thomas Pitt is that he bought the diamond from a merchant named Jaurchund for 48,000 pagodas Indian currency; which equals about 19,200 pounds. It does not explore how the diamond escaped the mine owners’ scrutiny of the slaves each night as they left the mines. Great precautions were taken to prevent just such treasures from being carried out of the mine. This mystery remains-did the mine owner Nizam Hyderabald take the diamond from the mine himself with Jaurchund acting as an intermediary, selling the diamond to Pitt? The mystery was never solved. It is currently on display in the Louvre, Paris. The mystery of who faceted our Regent replica is simple. J. O. Little was a member of the Texas Faceters’ Guild since about 1984, during which time he showed great talent in the high scores he got in faceting competition.

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RegentRegent Replica, 34*32 mm, 140.5 caratsRef: Robert W. Stickland June 28, 1994Modified for CZ, Angles for R.I. = 2.13074 + 32 girdles = 106 facets2-fold, mirror-image symmetry96 indexL/W = 1.045 T/W = 0.521 U/W = 0.440P/W = 0.389 C/W = 0.297Vol./W³ = 0.309

PAVILIONG1 90.00° 96-48G2 90.00° 02-46-50-94G3 90.00° 04-44-52-92G4 90.00° 07-41-55-89G5 90.00° 12-36-60-84G6 90.00° 18-30-66-78G7 90.00° 20-28-68-76G8 90.00° 22-26-70-74G9 90.00° 24-721 42.72° 02-46-50-942 40.16° 07-41-55-893 40.60° 18-30-66-784 41.31° 22-26-70-745 39.05° 24-726 35.83° 12-36-60-847 40.00° 96-488 34.91° 05-43-53-919 34.62° 19-29-67-77

0.00° Culet

CROWNA 51.08° 02-46-50-94B 48.05° 07-41-55-89C 53.37° 18-30-66-78D 52.73° 22-26-70-74E 46.92° 24-72F 42.21° 10-38-58-86G 45.00° 96-48H 39.71° 02-46-50-94J 38.07° 05-43-53-91K 37.06° 14-34-62-82L 40.67° 22-26-70-74T 0.00° Table

Robert based diagram on photo from "Famous Diamonds;of the World" GIA entering design then picking best angles for CZ that matched the photo (diamond)C:\gemcad\Regent.gem

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Sancy The Sancy diamond is called “the very Sphynx of Diamonds” because of its mysterious beginnings. An almond-shaped 55-carat, fine quality diamond, double-rose cut. The Sancy first appeared in the 1590s when purchased in Constantinople by Nicholas Harlai, the Seigneur de Sancy. Some say its history goes as far back as 1570. In 1604, Harlai sold the Sancy diamond to the new King of England. In 1605, an inventory of the jewels held in the Tower of London revealed the “fayre dyamond, cutt in fawcetts, bought of Sauncy.”, which was describing the Great Sancy, now just called the Sancy. During the mid 1640s when the country was in turmoil, a diamond known as the Sancy became part of the collateral needed for a loan to Queen Henrietta Maria. The Sancy and other jewels were pledged to the Duke of Epernon for soldiers. In 1657, as she had no money to redeem the jewels, the Duke sold them to Cardinal Mazarin. Upon the Cardinal’s death, his entire collection was given to Louis XIV of France. These diamonds and jewels remained as part of the French Crown Jewels. King Louis XIV’s great-grandson wore the Sancy on his hat, and the Regent diamond on a knot of pearls and diamonds on his uniform, even before he became known as King Louis XV in 1715. The Sancy and the Regent were set in his Coronation crown. The Sancy was also worn by his Queen, Marie Leszeynska, set in a necklace pendant, and the Regent as an ornament for her hair. During the reign of the next king Louis

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XVI, his queen Marie Antoinette, used these diamonds as well as the Mazarin diamonds to decorate, like they were flowers or feathers, rather than displaying them for what they were-magnificent diamonds. The Crown Jewels were stolen in 1792 during several raids on the Garde Meuble. The Minister of the Interior had wanted to sell the jewels and use the proceeds to back French paper money. The decision was delayed, and in September 1792 the Garde Meuble was broken into and all eleven cabinets of jewels were emptied. What was not taken laid in pieces on the floor. Three raids were held, taking only some of the jewels each time. The first two raids were undetected, and the thieves felt no fear of discovery. The third raid was planned as a party, where they carried with them food and wine. They were discovered this time, the next morning. Some of the jewels were recovered that day, but not the Regent, the Sancy, the Mirror of Portugal, the Cote de Bretagne red spinel, most of Mazarin diamonds or the French Blue. Forty years later, the French Blue was discovered in London. The Regent was found in 1794 in a little hole in the timber of a garret in Paris. The Cote de Bretagne eventually was returned to the French Crown Jewels, but through unknown means. The Mirror of Portugal was never heard of again. It was speculated the Sancy showed up as early as 1793 in a pawn shop and then passed from hand to hand during the French Revolution until in 1828 Charles X of France attempted to buy it from Godoy, the lover of the widow of Charles IX. The transaction failed, and instead the Sancy was purchased by Prince Nicholas of Russia. From there it passed on from one to another until it was purchased by an American, William Astor as a gift for his wife in approximately 1892. In 1899, he became a naturalized citizen of Britain and was named Viscount Astor. In 1919 his daughter-in-law became the first woman to serve in the House of Commons, and wore the Sancy in her tiara during numerous special occasions. In 1978 the Sancy was sold by the Astor family, and is now on exhibit in the Louvre Museum in Paris. The Sancy diamond replica was cut by Walter Carss.

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SancySancy Replica, 22*28.3 mm, 55 caratsRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal, October 1961Modified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.20062 + 14 girdles = 76 facets1-fold, mirror-image symmetry96 indexL/W = 1.271P/W = 0.371 C/W = 0.372Vol./W³ = 0.402

PAVILIONg1 90.00° 22-74 Cut g1 @22,74,26,70 index for

size,22mmg2 90.00° 27-691 46.70° 24-722 51.40° 22-743 54.80° 27-694 28.50° 24-72 Cut to 50% of width, 11mm5 55.70° 09-87

90.00° 09-876 24.30° 25-717 10.10° 01-958 55.50° 31-659 51.60° 04-9210 9.77° 96 Change angle to meet facets 4,7&9

90.00° 03-9311 53.70° 03-9312 32.40° 32-6413 54.30° 32-64

90.00° 31-6590.00° 36-60

14 62.50° 36-6015 35.10° 4816 63.00° 41-55

90.00° 41-5517 51.70° 48 May have to vary angle for meet

points

CROWNa 51.40° 22-74 The stone is identical on both sidesb 54.80° 27-69 Use same instructions for crown

after c 46.70° 24-72 transferingd 28.50° 24-72 Cut to 50% of width, 11mme 55.70° 09-87f 24.30° 25-71g 10.10° 01-95h 55.50° 31-65i 51.60° 04-92j 9.77° 96 Change angle to meet facets 4,7,& 9k 53.70° 03-93l 32.40° 32-64m 54.30° 32-64o 62.50° 36-60n 35.10° 48p 63.00° 41-55q 51.70° 48

Almond shaped, double rose cut, crown and pavilionare identicalPreform see next pageC:\gemcad\Sancy.gem

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Sancy rounded effectSancy Replica, 22*28 mm, 55 caratsRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal, October 1961Modified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.20062 + 25 girdles = 87 facets1-fold, mirror-image symmetry96 indexL/W = 1.282P/W = 0.385 C/W = 0.383Vol./W³ = 0.429

PAVILIONg1 90.00° 22-74 Cut g1 @22,74,27,69 index for 22.4

mmg2 90.00° 27-69 (g1 & g2 cut at same time for size)1 51.40° 22-742 54.80° 27-69r1 90.00° 24-72 Cut small facet(approx 2mm)round

effec3 46.50° 24-724 28.50° 24-72 Cut to 50% of width, 11mm5 55.70° 09-87

90.00° 09-876 51.60° 04-92

90.00° 03-93r2 90.00° 06-90 Small facet(approx 1/4 face)round

eff7 53.70° 03-93r3 90.00° 96 " "8 24.30° 25-719 10.10° 01-9510 9.80° 9611 31.70° 33-6312 55.50° 31-65

90.00° 31-65r4 90.00° 29-67 Small facet for rounded effect13 36.90° 4814 54.40° 32-64

90.00° 36-60r5 90.00° 34-62 Small facet for rounded effect

90.00° 41-55

CROWNa 51.40° 22-74 The stone is identical on both sidesb 54.80° 27-69 Cut to level girdle and use samec 46.50° 24-72 instructions for crownd 55.70° 09-87e 55.50° 31-65f 28.50° 24-72g 51.60° 04-92h 53.70° 03-93i 24.30° 25-71j 10.10° 01-95k 9.80° 96l 31.70° 33-63l 54.40° 32-64m 36.90° 48n 61.70° 36-60o 63.40° 41-55p 50.20° 48

PAVILION15 61.70° 36-6016 63.40° 41-55

90.00° 38-58 Small facet for rounded effect17 50.20° 48

Pavilion and crown are identicalg facets give level faceted girdle, adding r facetsgives stone rounded appearanceC:\GEMCAD\SANCYRD.GEM

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Sancy PreformSancy Replica,preform 22*28 mm, 55 caratsRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal, October 1961Modified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.20016 + 26 girdles = 42 facets1-fold, mirror-image symmetry96 indexL/W = 1.276 T/W = 1.276 U/W = 1.000P/W = 0.354 Vol./W³ = 1.092

PREFORMg1 90.00° 22-74 Cut g1 @22,74,27,69 index for 22.4

mmg2 90.00° 27-69 (g1 & g2 cut at same time for size)r1 90.00° 24-72 Cut small facet(approx 2mm)round

effecg3 90.00° 09-87g4 90.00° 03-93r2 90.00° 06-90 Small facet(approx 1/4 face)round

effr3 90.00° 96 " "g5 90.00° 31-65r4 90.00° 29-67 Small facet for rounded effectg6 90.00° 36-60r5 90.00° 34-62 Small facet for rounded effectg7 90.00° 41-55r6 90.00° 38-58 Small facet for rounded effect1 36.41° 22-742 39.08° 27-690 35.00° 24-725 40.95° 31-653 40.20° 09-874 43.13° 03-936 42.32° 36-607 42.64° 41-55r7 90.00° 48

Does not have common meetpoint at centerg girdle facets cut level faceted girdler girdle facets cut scallop girdle and roundoutline of stoneC:\gemcad\Sancyprf.gem

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Star of the South (Estrela do Sul) This beauty at 261.88 carats was the largest diamond discovered by any woman. An African slave imported to Brazil and working in the Bagagem Mines found the diamond in 1853. She received her freedom and a lifetime pension for her discovery. At first the diamond was a little difficult to sell since Indian diamonds were believed to be far superior to diamonds from Brazil. The rough stone originally sold for $15,000. In about 1854, the diamond was cut at the Coster Plant in Amsterdam. At the new cut size of a 128.5-carat oval brilliant, it showed an inner fire of a beautiful pink color. At this time, it was publicized by a Paris newspaper as the Star of the South. Star of the South refers to the South American continent Brazil, not to Africa or to South Africa. In 1867, the Star of the South was purchased by the Gaekwar of Baroda for $400,000. It remained in his family for almost one hundred years. In 1934 it became part of a famous delicately-colored diamond necklace, a necklace also containing the English Dredsen diamond. The last known owner of the Star of the South was reported to be Rustomjee Jamsetjee of Bombay, though there has been no direct confirmation of this. Our Star of the South diamond replica was cut by Tom Nuchols. Tom has actually cut three replicas of this diamond, two of which he donated to the Faceters’ Guild. Having two has given us the opportunity to have two sets of replicas, so they may be exhibited at more locations.

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Star of the South Star of the South replica 33*28 mm 128.8 carats Ref: Robert W.Strickland based on Tom R. Barbour Lapidary Journal, June 1962, modified for CZ Angles for R.I. = 2.10057 + 16 girdles = 73 facets2-fold, mirror-image symmetry96 indexL/W = 1.162 T/W = 0.688 U/W = 0.540P/W = 0.524 C/W = 0.214Vol./W³ = 0.328

PAVILION1 43.80° 22-26-70-74 Temporary center

point2 44.40° 13-35-61-83 T.C.P.3 45.40° 09-39-57-87 T.C.P.4 48.10° 02-46-50-94 T.C.P.g1 90.00° 22-26-70-74 Make Preform 33 mm

longg2 90.00° 13-35-61-83 Level girdleg3 90.00° 09-39-57-87 Level girdleg4 90.00° 02-46-50-94 Preform should be

approx 28 mm5 41.30° 18-30-66-78 Meet girdle6 45.20° 04-44-52-92 Meet girdle, culet

CROWNa 51.10° 02-46-50-94 establish girdleb 52.10° 09-39-57-87 level girdlec 52.20° 13-35-61-83d 54.00° 22-26-70-74e 44.00° 04-44-52-92 Cut to girdlef 42.64° 18-30-66-78 Meet c & bg 30.00° 96-48 Cut to meet a & eh 23.85° 10-38-58-86 Cut to meet c & bT 0.00° Table Cut to meet g & hi 27.65° 24-72 Vary angle to meet h

f & d

Robert W. Strickland CAM methodC:\gemcad\Starsth.gem

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Star of the South (rounded)Star of the South Replica, 33*28 mm, 128.5 caratsRef: Tom R Barbour, Lapidary Journal, June 1962Modified for CZ Robert W. Strickland May 18, 1995Angles for R.I. = 2.15058 + 32 girdles = 90 facets2-fold, mirror-image symmetry96 indexL/W = 1.180 T/W = 0.693 U/W = 0.551P/W = 0.443 C/W = 0.215Vol./W³ = 0.326

PAVILION1 44.24° 01-47-49-95 Used on Preform & final

cutg1 90.00° 01-47-49-95 cut to level girdleg2 90.00° 09-39-57-87 "g3 90.00° 15-33-63-81 "

90.00° 78 "90.00° 75

g3 90.00° 72g3 90.00° 69g3 90.00° 30-66

90.00° 2790.00° 2490.00° 2190.00° 18

g4 90.00° 96-48 cut approx 1/3 to nextpt,round girdle

g5 90.00° 06-42-54-90 "g6 90.00° 12-36-60-842 40.88° 09-39-57-87 Meet Girdle Line3 39.72° 15-33-63-81 "4 39.07° 21-27-69-75 "a 37.88° 18-30-66-78b 40.00° 05-43-53-91

0.00° Culet About 1.5mm

CROWNE 41.89° 18-30-66-78F 40.55° 05-43-53-91G 26.36° 96-48H 23.78° 11-37-59-85T 0.00° TableI 29.43° 24-72 May need angle change to

meet H & ED 48.94° 21-27-69-75A 55.00° 01-47-49-95B 49.07° 09-39-57-87C 48.54° 15-33-63-81

CAM Preform to followC:\gemcad\Strsthrd.gem

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Star of the South PreformStar of the South Replica preform 33*28 mmRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal June 1962Modified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.15016 + 32 girdles = 48 facets2-fold, mirror-image symmetry96 indexL/W = 1.173C/W = 0.291Vol./W³ = 0.807

PREFORMg1 90.00° 01-47-49-95 cut to level girdleg2 90.00° 09-39-57-87 "g3 90.00° 15-33-63-81 "

90.00° 75g3 90.00° 72g3 90.00° 27-69g3 90.00° 24

90.00° 21g5 90.00° 06-42-54-90 "g6 90.00° 12-36-60-842 27.59° 09-39-57-873 26.87° 15-33-63-81

26.38° 21-27-69-75g7 90.00° 18-30-66-781 30.00° 01-47-49-95g4 90.00° 96-48

C:\gemcad\Strsthpf.gem

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Stewart This diamond was found in 1872 by Robert Spaulding and Antoine Williams while they were working Spaulding’s claim on the South African Vaal River. Antoine’s pick hit a stone so hard, it bounced back. He dug to uncover the stone, and showed it to Spaulding; a slightly yellowish octahedral diamond that weighed some 296 carats. At first he called it the Spaulding Diamond, and for a long time it was known as the largest alluvial diamond ever found. Spaulding sold it for $30,000 to a Port Elizabeth merchant named Stewart. Stewart later sold the diamond for $45,000 to Messrs. Pittar, Leverson and Company, but the name has remained Stewart. After being cut to a 123-carat brilliant, it is sometimes called the Star of Spaulding Diamond. The current location of the diamond is not known, but it is believed to be privately owned. Our Stewart diamond replica was cut by Clifford Chapman.

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StewartStewart Replica, 35*33 mm, 123.0 caratsRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal, November 1962Modified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.20057 + 16 girdles = 73 facets2-fold, mirror-image symmetry64 indexL/W = 1.154 T/W = 0.711 U/W = 0.516P/W = 0.494 C/W = 0.165Vol./W³ = 0.275

PAVILIONg1 90.00° 14-18-46-50g2 90.00° 02-30-34-62g3 90.00° 06-26-38-58g4 90.00° 10-22-42-541 41.00° 12-20-44-522 43.75° 04-28-36-603 43.57° 14-18-46-504 44.76° 10-22-42-545 46.45° 06-26-38-586 49.70° 02-30-34-62

CROWNa 39.50° 04-28-36-60b 39.50° 12-20-44-52c 51.66° 02-30-34-62d 47.14° 06-26-38-58e 46.86° 10-22-42-54f 46.13° 14-18-46-50g 25.00° 16-48i 24.41° 08-24-40-56h 0.00° Tablej 18.76° 64-32

With a picture in Ian Balfour's "Famous Diamonds"there appears to be a need for a new outlineTherefore, a new diagram is forthcomingC:\gemcad\StewartA.gem

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Tiffany This 288 carats of golden-colored diamond was found in 1877 or 1878. The exact location or mine where the Tiffany was found is also unclear. It was speculated to have been found at the Kimberly Mine in South Africa, but because it was found before accurate records were kept, the location is also not quite clear. Some believe it was discovered in the French-owned Kimberley mine, since it was sent to Paris to be cut. This beautiful rough diamond was purchased by the Tiffany & Co. of New York, sent to Paris, and in 1878 cut into a 128.51-carat cushion shape diamond with some 90 facets. The “extra” facets were to add more brilliance. In 1879 the Tiffany was taken to the United States and placed on exhibit. The was little excitement about the color of this diamond since at this same time yellow diamonds were being found in South Africa in greater quantities than ever before. Soon the difference became very clear; the color of the Tiffany was more than just yellow in color-it was a deep canary yellow. Even today the Tiffany remains the standard by which canary-colored stones are measured. The Tiffany was placed on display numerous times where millions of people viewed it. In 1957, the first time since its discovery, the Tiffany was placed in a necklace and worn to the Tiffany Ball. In 1971 the diamond returned to South Africa to mark the 100th anniversary of the Kimberly Mine. The mine closed in 1914 and was once proclaimed as the largest man-made hole in the world. In 1986 the Tiffany was exhibited at the reopening of a Tiffany & Co store in London after an absence of forty years. In 1973 the Tiffany was valued at some 5 million dollars, but by 1983 the value soared to 12 million. The Tiffany remains on exhibit at the American Museum of Natural History in New York. The first Tiffany diamond replica was cut by Walter Carss, a member of the Texas Faceters’ Guild since 1981. The second one was cut by Charles Covill, a member of the Faceters’ Guild for many years and a world-renowned designer and faceter.

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TiffanyTiffany Replica, 27*27 mm, 128.51 caratsRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal, March 1963Modified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.20089 + 16 girdles = 105 facets4-fold, mirror-image symmetry64 indexL/W = 1.000 T/W = 0.489 U/W = 0.489P/W = 0.585 C/W = 0.178Vol./W³ = 0.337

PAVILIONg1 90.00° 01-15-17-31- cut to size (27 X

33-47-49-63 27mm)g2 90.00° 03-13-19-29- See preform

35-45-51-611 58.00° 01-15-17-31- Establish girdle &

33-47-49-63 height2 56.70° 64-16-32-48 Cut to girdle3 56.70° 03-13-19-29- Level girdle, meet

35-45-51-61 with 1 & 24 48.18° 08-24-40-56 Cut to girdle, meet

with 1 2 & 35 45.00° 64-16-32-48 Meet with 1 2 3 & 4

45.00° 08-24-40-566 40.00° 64-16-32-486 40.00° 08-24-40-56 leave step 5 10% of

pavilion,app 2-3mm

PAVILION1 36.40° 04-12-20-28- Cut new culet,meet 5

36-44-52-60 & 6CROWN

g1 55.00° 01-15-17-31- Estable girdle33-47-49-63 thickness

2 53.19° 03-13-19-29- Level girdle35-45-51-61

3 51.15° 64-16-32-48 Cut to girdle4 35.57° 08-24-40-56 Cut to girdle, meet

2 & 35 10.00° 01-15-17-31- Cut to meet 1 & 2

33-47-49-636 11.08° 64-16-32-48 Cut to meet 3 1 & 2T 0.00° Table Cut to meet 5 & 67 22.32° 08-24-40-56 May have vary angle

to meet T & 2

CAM Preform diagram followsC:\gemcad\Tiffany.gem

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Victoria The rough diamond weighed 457.8 carats. The Victoria, also called the Imperial or Great White, is the biggest octahedral diamond to be found in South Africa until the discovery of a 505 carat diamond found in 1896. Its origin and history are shrouded in mystery. One story says this diamond was found on a farm in the Orange Free State, but kept a secret because the farmer was sure that once the discovery was known, his farm would be invaded by diggers looking for more. The stone was sold to a syndicate of leading diamond merchants. Some believed the diamond was found in the Jagersfontein Mine even though not many large diamonds had been found there. But those produced had cleavages like the Victoria. Octahedral diamonds were characteristic of the three large South African mines, DeBeers, Kimberly, and Dutoitspan. It is believed the Victoria had a more sinister beginning and that it was smuggled out of the Kimberly Mine by the very officer responsible for searching others to prevent theft from the mine. He schemed with three others to get the diamond to Cape Town, where selling diamonds was not monitored as closely by the authorities. The story continues that it is sold to a diamond merchant for 19,000 pounds cash. The diamond went into the merchant’s pocket, wrapped in a cloth, as he proceeded to board a ship to London without declaring the merchandise. He took it to a diamond market

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and sold it to a group of eight men for 45,000 pounds. They agreed to sell the diamond and divide the profit nine ways. Before selling it, they decided to have the stone cut. So off to Amsterdam they went to approach Jacques Metz. The first piece he cleaved off made a brilliant 19 carat stone. Then in April 1887 the cutting of the Victoria began, and for over one year the diamond was studied and cut by M.B. Barends. The finished stone 184.2 carats, 58 facets, a slightly oval brilliant cut, and not exactly even. On one side of the girdle, there is a flat place that was necessary to leave when cutting to allow the largest possible weight for the stone. Mystery followed the Victoria throughout its history. Nizam of Hyderabad bought the Victoria, and in the 1950s he placed his collection of jewels, valued at 13,000,000 to 15,000,000 pounds, under a trust divided into two groups, one for sale and the other not. In 1951 after rumors of financial problems, it was announced that the Jacob was for sale along with other jewels. The Indian government said no more national treasures were to leave the country, so the sale was cancelled. Again, five years later, the Jacob and other jewels were offered for sale. The Jacob was described as white, not blue, and a brilliant gem. In 1977 after Nizam’s death, the jewels were to be sold to settle his estate. During each of the previous attempts to sell, the Victoria was not mentioned, only the Jacob. The carat weight and description of the Victoria and the Jacob are the same. A story was told of the sale of the Victoria for the Nizam, with Alexander Jacob as an agent. Jacob had delivered the Victoria to Nizam and collected only one-half the purchase price. A lawyer heard of the transaction and convinced Nizam to not pay the rest of the price of the diamond but to keep the diamond. Alexander Jacob had no witnesses on his side. He sued in a Calcutta court. But even though he won, he was broke, his legal expenses were enormous and he died later in poverty. The Victoria diamond replica was cut by J. O. Little.

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VictoriaVictoria Replica, 35*30 mm, 184.5 caratsRef: Tom R. Barbour, Lapidary Journal, April 1963Modified for CZAngles for R.I. = 2.20061 + 32 girdles = 93 facets2-fold, mirror-image symmetry64 indexL/W = 1.167 T/W = 0.726 U/W = 0.574P/W = 0.520 C/W = 0.159Vol./W³ = 0.347

PAVILIONg1 90.00° 16-48g2 90.00° 15-17-47-49g7 90.00° 04-28-36-60g8 90.00° 02-30-34-62g9 90.00° 01-31-33-63g10 90.00° 64-321 38.00° 64-08-16-24-

32-40-48-562 48.66° 03-29-35-613 49.14° 64-324 50.32° 01-31-33-635 42.44° 13-19-45-517 42.48° 16-486 43.35° 15-17-47-49

CROWNa 29.65° 08-24-40-56b 35.00° 64-32c 40.88° 01-31-33-63d 39.12° 04-28-36-60e 40.53° 12-20-44-52i 20.83° 02-30-34-62h 0.00° Tablej 21.58° 13-19-45-51f 32.78° 16-48g 37.82° 15-17-47-49g5 90.00° 10-22-42-54g4 90.00° 12-20-44-52g3 90.00° 06-26-38-58

Since the 1950's the Victoria Diamond has not been seentherefore, no new photographs are availale.C:\gemcad\VictoriaA.gem

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Some of my favorites

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The Great Mogul top and side views. Beautiful. This replica was cut by J. O. Little.

The two Hopes. The replica on the right was cut from CZ by Walter Carss. The replica on the left was cut from spinel by Jack Newsom.

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Walter Carss cut all of these colored diamonds.

They are replicas of the Tiffany, Hope, De Young Red, and Dresden Green diamonds.

Walter Carss’ Dresden Green Charles Covill’s Tiffany

Jack Newsom’s Dresden Green The First Eight Replicas

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Acknowledgments For my small part in this project, I would like to first thank the Spark Plug of the Famous Diamond Histories and diagrams task. Our chiefs and advisors did not make this happen by decree. This project happened because of that dynamo, your TFG bulletin Editor-Historian, my life partner, Hollis Thompson. Her focus and dedication, sacrifice, prodding, and yes, some vacation days, were what was required to get this into print. THANK YOU, I love you, Ms. Dopstick! This book project is the culmination of Jill Rowland’s idea to have something tangible and special for the TFG’s 20th Anniversary. Projects like the replicas or “the book” always build upon the achievements of others. The following certainly preceded and led us down this path: Tom R. Barbour, Robert W. Strickland, Hubert Rackets, Walter Carss, Bob Long, Norman Steele, Glenn and Martha Vargas, and many more. The majority of Tom Barbour’s original series are here. Each new edition of Ian Balfour’s book adds more corrections and new diamonds to be put to GemCad. Now that I have Editions 1, 2, and 4, my book budget and Alibris (internet rare books) will never be the same. A big thanks to these following Texas Faceters’ Guild members, Robert W. Strickland, F. Marvin Holbrook, and Charles Covill, who have done loads of work translating sparse facts into GemCad faceting diagrams. Thank you, Fred Ward, for your input and great photos of the Orloff and the Centenary diamonds. Both of these are particularly difficult to diagram. And thanks to the University of Texas Geology Library and librarian, Dennis Trombatore for your usual selfless and superb help. A very special thanks to all of you who have or are about to: A. Pay $50 to $100 for the privilege to purchase the CZ rough for this project. B. Donate your time and equipment and faceting talents (50 to 100 hours for the larger replicas), and then C. Donate the finished replica to the Guild. The success of this project is due to each one of you. Thank you all. Dopstick

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Member Acknowledgment

There are many Texas Faceters’ Guild members to thank, pay tribute to, and remember. Only a few are included in the next few pages. Our goal would be to list the members of TFG and to list the members who actively cut a replica of a famous diamond for this project, the ones who served as officers over the years, who came up with those ideas to promote faceting who produced design after design to challenge, intrigue, and test the many talented faceters. These next few pages are this author’s short list, but by no means is it a complete one of the members who made this project a successful one. To each and every one of you contributing to the hobby of faceting by teaching others to facet, by judging, attending, and participating in your local or national clubs, by designing new diagrams, by providing everyone with great materials to cut, and newsletter editors...my hat is off to you. Thank You!!

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Walter Carss Walter is a member of the Texas Faceters’ Guild since 1981, serving in many offices. A retired Air Force Full Bird Colonel who learned to facet using Glenn and Martha Vargas Faceting for Amateurs. It was 1988, while Walter was President of the Guild, that Hubert Rackets approached him about the Guild doing replicas of the famous diamonds. So on July 17, 1988, a letter went out to the membership telling about the proposal of the project and the financial request of $45.00 as the pro-rated share of the cost of the stone. (This was basically to pay the cost of the material.) I guess we all know what happened then. In reading through the newsletters, I noted many remarks made about Walter. He started several programs: regional vice-presidents, the diamond replicas project, needed changes in the Constitution and by laws; seeing a problem and then following it through to the end, resolving to help make changes for the betterment of the Guild. He was very involved in the Uniform Rules Committees promoting and establishing uniform judging rules for faceting. He worked closely with Robert W. Strickland in developing the GemCad program. Walter cut a design created by Fred Van Sant; it was edited and transferred to GemCad format by Walter May 5, 1994. This design was first published in the June 1994 issue of the US Faceters’ Guild newsletter and chosen as one of “The Twelve Best Designs of 1994”. Walter is an excellent faceter and has been on several American Teams for Australian International Competition. In 1987 Walter sent Glenn Vargas a couple of diagrams that were included in Volume III of Glenn and Martha’s book Faceting Diagrams. The diagrams were for the Eleven Sided Brilliant and the Thirteen Sided Brilliant. Walter was inspired by a lecture given by Glenn on the possibility of gems with odd numbered facets. Walter cut a series of gemstones having symmetries from nine to twenty. He took the cut stones to the TFG symposium in May 1987 and asked the attendees to choose the gemstone with the symmetry number they liked best. The majority choose the eleven-sided gem, with the next most popular being the thirteen-sided gem. Moving from Brehnam, after some years ranching, Walter settled in Amarillo with his wife Beryl. Just after I took over as editor, he sent me all the TFG

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newsletters he had as well as newsletters from numerous other prominent clubs. This has helped me learn and write about the Guild and its members. Thanks Walter for being a great leader, for realizing a good idea and following it through. We Salute You!! Hubert Rackets Hubert started faceting in 1943. He and Helen, his wife, were vacationing in Wyoming at Helen’s parent’s home. Her dad, John Denny, a petroleum production manager was at work during the day. Since there wasn’t much to do, Hubert was wandering around the house and ended up down in the basement. He found “a funny little machine”. It looked like a lathe, but was sitting in a vertical position. When John came home that evening, Hubert asked him about the “machine” was told it was a faceting machine’ and he would show it to him after supper. They went down into the basement to look it over and didn’t come up until after 3:00A.M. John had shown Hubert some of the principles of faceting. The rest of his vacation found Hubert in the basement, and he has been faceting ever since. Upon retiring, Hubert began faceting even more, continued teaching people to facet and found time for lots of golfing and fishing, too. The idea of cutting the Famous Diamond Replicas comes from Hubert. A member of TFG since 1981 and living in Houston, Hubert was an active member and he loved faceting. He used a diagram he found in the May 1962 issue of Lapidary Journal from an article by Tom Barbour to cut his first diamond replica, the Cullinan I. Hubert was Vice-President of TFG, when he came up with the idea of a Guild project of cutting the famous diamond replicas. He mentioned it to Walter Carss, President of TFG at the time, and Walter agreed to put it to the members saying it would be a great project to undertake. Hubert gathered up all the issues of Lapidary Journal containing the published information on the diamonds. Since the club didn’t have the available funds to pay for the project, donations of $45.00 were requested to pay for the materials. The stones were then cut using the diagrams provided by Tom Barbour. Because of this Twentieth Commemorative Issue containing the replicas of

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the famous diamonds, it is obvious this has been a successful project. And now the club has the funds to buy the CZ to be used on future replicas. Thank you, Hubert, for a wonderful project-one that has brought much joy and satisfaction to the cutters and a new appreciation of faceting to the many people viewing our traveling exhibit. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Sister Clement Johnson Not enough can be said about this Charter Member of our Guild. Sister Clement Johnson was here from the beginning. She served in every office, many of them more than once, is a great, award-winning editor and best of all, is a good friend to all of us. Though I haven’t known Sister very long, I immediately realized she is the glue that holds it all together. While scanning the old newsletters looking for bits of information on members, and the progress of the Guild, only a few times did I notice Sister not holding an office or writing the newsletter. She was there any time a project needed to be done or a committee to be led, attended the meetings in the different locations, headed up the exhibit of the Guild’s faceted stones, and took care of the gemstone auctions held to raise money for the Guild. As editor, in the July 1989 issue of the newsletter, Sister wrote a plea to the membership for information... “How wonderful it would be if I had a wealth of information supplied by the members of our Guild...A newsletter is only as good as the organization to which it belongs.” Later in the year she wrote an apology to the members for the lateness of the newsletter, “due to so many things taking place in the Golden Jubilee Year in her life”. In 1990, a letter from the President was included in the newsletter. In this letter Walter Carss, soon to be ex-president, wrote about Sister Clement, soon to be ex-editor, “through it all she has maintained her calm, pleasant, warm outlook and produced a folky interesting newsletter that has substituted well for our inability to meet together. To her goes great credit for holding together our widely dispersed membership in a cohesive guild....Thanks, Sister, for a very difficult job exceedingly well done!”

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Well, Sister did become the ex-editor, and guess what, she stepped right into the job of secretary. At first she filled in as editor until a new one could be found, and still helped in any way she could. In the July 1994 issue of the Texas Faceters’ Guild newsletter, a special tribute was made to a wonderful lady, Sister Clement’s Cross was designed and perfected by Walter Carss and Robert W. Strickland. Thank you, Sister, for all you have done to make us a successful organization spanning twenty years. Charles Covill A civil engineer by profession, Charles came to the Texas Faceters’ Guild in about 1984, bringing with him a great talent. He retired in 1980 and started faceting in about 1981. While working as a civil engineer, he served on numerous teams building very impressive bridges: the Harbor Bridge in Corpus Christi, Texas; the Loop 360 Bridge in Austin, Texas; the bridge over the Houston Ship Channel to name a few. On one of the bridges he was actually in charge of the team-the Devil’s River bridge in Del Rio-and was given an award as well for it being named “The Most Beautiful Bridge Built in the United States” for that year. Charles has uses his knowledge and experiences to create hundreds of new cutting designs. Charles and his wife Paddy of over fifty years, spent many years in the gem and mineral business selling faceting machines and facet materials, books on his designs, faceted stones, and beautifully crafted jewelry. Charles and Paddy were especially popular for their blue topaz “Lone Star Cut”. They have officially retired from the gem and mineral circuit, but Charles stays actively involved with designing new diagrams and faceting many stones. Paddy is still at his side offering the love and support needed when the new design just won’t print on GemCad. Thank you, Charles, for all your part in promoting our science of faceting and for all those wonderful and sometimes strange new designs-and especially for being a good friend to all of us. Thanks.

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Glenn and Martha Vargas Glenn and Martha are members of the Texas Faceters’ Guild and have been since 1982. Their life together in the faceting world spanned over fifty years. As a team, they taught lapidary-especially faceting-in some public schools in California. For about the last twenty-five of those years, Glenn and Martha taught one-and more recently-two facet classes each year at the University of Texas, Austin. Their business of selling facet rough for some thirty years allowed them to travel the world over. Many times Glenn and Martha gave most enjoyable programs at the Austin Gem and Mineral Club meetings, telling of their travels. The travel and teaching gave them the knowledge and experience necessary to complete Faceting for Amateurs through three editions, Diagrams for Faceting, volumes I, II and III, and Description of Gem Materials through three editions. They loved the interaction with the students and attribute much of their fine tuning of the books through the editions to the students as their ideas and new techniques were discussed and tried. Glenn and Martha are Life Members of the TFG, and great supporters of our hobby and our organization. They attended as many of our Symposiums as they could when they were in Austin, many times are featured speakers for us, who were all anxious to learn from the experts. Martha passed away February 9, 2000, at the age of 82. We all miss her very much. Glenn at the age of 86 still comes to the University of Texas to teach in the faceting labs. He very much enjoys the interaction with the students. During the years of coming to Austin, Glenn and Martha contributed numerous gem and mineral specimens to the University. Over ninety percent of their collection of minerals, somewhere in the neighborhood of 1000 specimens, are on exhibit lining the walls of the second floor of the Geology Building on the UT campus. The second floor exhibits also include a stone, cut in quartz, for every diagram presented in their three books of faceting diagrams! In the Museum Room on the first floor are the different varieties and colors of faceted gemstones and the crystal from which they are cut. Thank you both for being there for us for so very many years.

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Robert W. Strickland Our GemCad guru. A letter dated December 12, 1986 from Robert L. Strickland was included in the April-July 1987 newsletter. It spoke of his son having solved a meet-point design problem. A diagram was included in that newsletter with the write-up of information. It explained how Robert used a computer program starting with a round brilliant, stretched it mathematically, then carefully adjusted the angles to make the indices integers. WOW! Robert came to the next symposium and joined our ranks. He has remained actively involved in the Guild and wrote GemCad, an MS DOS based program for producing faceting diagrams. He traveled to many places in the United States and even to Australia presenting his program and fine-tuning his approach to all those diagrams out there. Because of Robert’s GemCad program we are able to prepare very accurate designs based on pictures of famous diamonds for use in our project on the Famous Diamond Replicas. This process would be almost impossible without the use of GemCad. Robert also served as editor of the Guild, producing a wonderfully informative newsletter with lots of great articles about faceting, and of course, many GemCad diagrams for us. Thank you, Robert, for all you have done for the science of faceting and for the Texas Faceters’ Guild. What’s that I hear of a Windows version? Gregory L. Thompson Greg is a member of the TFG since March 1984. Greg moved to Houston, Texas in 1979 from his home state, Iowa. He earned his Masters Degree in Geology at Iowa State University and moved to Texas to begin his career with an oil production company, Amoco. Now some twenty years later, a naturalized Texan, Greg lives in Round Rock, Texas and works in Austin at the University of Texas where he makes thin sections for study either by the professors or students. He became interested in faceting while an undergraduate student at Iowa State University. He met a member of the Des Moines Lapidary Club, Leonard Johnson. Leonard worked as a janitor at Drake University and while Leonard was participating in an Arts and Craft Fair on the Drake University campus, Greg wandered by on his way to the library. Greg didn’t make it to the library that day. He was bitten by the “bug”. Much later, after many visits to

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Leonard’s home and shop, Greg began his adventure into the lapidary arts with Houston Gem and Mineral Society and the Texas Faceters’ Guild. Now an accomplished faceter in his own right, he served as officer of the TFG and is most instrumental in the promotion of the diamond replicas project as well as the faceter of two of the current replicas and the “keeper of the stones” for many years. Greg worked closely with Glenn and Martha Vargas in the faceting labs they taught each year at the University of Texas. During his terms as Vice-President, the Guild moved its October Symposium to the clubhouse of the Austin Gem and Mineral Society. Success of an organization only comes from the participation of members like you. Thank you Greg for all your help promoting the replicas project, for working with the other members to come up with those much improved cutting diagrams and for being a great friend to the Guild and to me, Ms. Dopstick. Hollis Thompson Hollis has pursued a mineral and fossil interest since joining the Gulf Coast Gem and Mineral Society Corpus Christi, Texas in the early 1980s. She moved to Austin almost twenty years ago and is been actively involved in numerous gem, and mineral, and fossil organizations, serving as editor for several as well as officers from president to secretary treasurer. In early 1993, Hollis bought a Facetron “on a whim” and cut her first stone, an amethyst, during a class at the Austin Gem & Mineral clubhouse, taught by our own Charles Covill. She didn’t get a chance to cut another stone until she decided to enter a stone in competition at the South Central Federation show to be held in Glen Rose, Texas, March 1997. She entered as Novice, scored 98.8, and would have done much better had she received some better advice on the girdle thickness. (“Oops”, Dopstick) She still has time to facet stones for family members. May 1997 Hollis began as the Texas Faceters’ Guild Newsletter Editor, and a short time later, she volunteered to be the Historian as well. In October 1999 she found herself paired up with Greg (Dopstick) to produce the Twentieth Anniversary book on the Famous Diamond Replicas.

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References A History of the Crown Jewels of Europe, Lord Twining, 1960. Book of Diamonds, by Joan Younger Dickinson, 1965. Diamonds: Famous, Notable and Unique, by Lawrence L. Copeland, 1974. Diamonds; by Eric Bruton, F.G.A., Second Edition, 1978. Diamonds: Myth, Magic and Reality; Crown Publishers, Inc. New York, 1980. Famous Diamonds, Ian Balfour, Second Edition, 1992. Fancy-Color Diamonds; by Harvey Harris, 1994. Lapidary Journal, Famous Diamond Series, various issues April 1960 through November 1963, By Tom R. Barbour, Certified Gemologist. Legendary Gems or Gems that Made History, by Eric Bruton, F.G.A, 1986. The Diamond Dictionary, by Robert A.P. Gaal, PhD., Gemological Institute of America, Second Edition, 1977. The GIA Diamond Dictionary, 3rd Edition, by Richard T. Liddicoat, 1993. The Nature of Diamonds, George E. Harlow, American Museum of Natural History, 1998.

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texas faceters' guild project 2000

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