TECHNOLOGICAL ADVANCEMENT OF

LINEN FABRIC

SUBMITTED BY GUFRAN SYEDA

14-HOM-14 GD-O244

C0NTENT Introduction Tools used in the processing of linen Equipment used in the processing of linen

Technique applied on linen fibre Recent techniques in the processing of

linen Conclusion

LINEN

• Linen is a cellulosic fiber derived from the stem of the flax plant.

• Flax is the fiber name; linen is the fabric name.

• Linen belongs to a group of natural cellulose fibers known as bast fibers.

• Bast fibers are also known as ‘soft’ fibers or skin fibers.

• Much stronger and more lustrous than cotton.

• One of the oldest and most expensive textiles in the world.

• World’s oldest textile fiber, dates back to Stone Age 5,000 years

Much stronger and more lustrous than cotton.

One of the oldest and most expensive textiles in the world.

World’s oldest textile fiber, dates back to Stone Age 5,000 years

Towels, sheets, and tablecloths are called “linens”.

TYPES OF LINEN

Plain woven Loosely woven Sheeting linen

USES

Linen

Men ‘s wear Commercial furnishings

women’s wear Home

furnishings

TOOLS USED IN THE PROCESSING OF LINEN

TOOLS

FLAX RIPPLE

FLAX BREAK

SCTUCHING SWORDS

FLAX HACKLE

DISTAFF

• A comb used for removing seeds or bolls from flax.FLAX RIPPLE

• Wooden item• A set of intersecting wooden blades that force the

retted flax straw to snap into short section which then fall away from the fibers.

FLAX BREAK

• Used to remove woody portion.SCUTCHING SWORDS

• A bed of nails • Used to comb the flax fiber after scutching• Straigthen the flax fiber as well as removing the

fibrous core and impurities.FLAX HACKLE

• Simply a long vertical pole that attaches to a spinnig wheel from which the fibers are hung.

• This helps keep the fiber organized and prevent from turning into a tangled mess

DISTAFF

EQUIPMENT USED IN THE

PROCESSING OF LINEN

Flax for fiber is pulled by hand or by mechanical pullers to keep the roots in fact for the fiber extend below ground surface.

After dyeing the flax is rippled that is pulled through special threshing machines that remove the seed pods or rolls.

PULLERS

Retting separate the straw or bark from the fiber. There are 5 method of retting

RETTING

• RETTING- • Retting separate the

straw or bark from the fiber. There are two method of retting-

1. WATER RETTING

WATER RETTIN

G

DEW RETTIN

G

This process involves submerging the flax in water for between the 6 and 20 days allowing bacteria action to cause the bark to be loosed.

This process is done by spreading the flax in the field and exposed to rain, sun and dew for several weeks, until, the stalk begins to separate from the fiber. It takes around 15-30 days.

WOODEN VAT RETTING

CHEMICAL

RETTING

ENZYME

RETTING

•The stems are steeped in water at the controlled temperatur75°-90° in a Vat or in a container until the stems get soft. •This is a fast process and the easiest method of retting and the quality of the fibers are good from this process.

•In this process the stems are treated with mild/dilute conc. Acid and alkalis then the fibers are easily removed from the stems.

Enzyme retting is the safest and fastest process of retting.in this process the fibers can be taken out from the stems within few hours

This is done by mechanical device.

After the retting is complete the flax is passed between the fleeted rollers that break the outer woody covering into small the fiber.

SCOTCHING

HECKLING

Heckling is done with heckling combs by pulling the flax

through the combs.

SPINNING

MACHINE

It is used for obtaining yarn from flax fiber.

Flax spinning includes processing on combing and carding machine, drawing frames, roving machine, and spinning frames.

TECHNIQUES APPLIED ON LINEN FABRIC

DYEING

The surface of the natural flax fiber is hard and non porous and therefore, impenetrable to dyes. So the linen does not have good affinity for dyeing.

Linen are cellulose fiber and thus use fiber reactive dyes, vat dyes, azoic dyes

or napthol dyes, and direct dyes

WEAVING

KNITTING

The majority of linen woven products are created three basic weave such as- Plain weave Twill weave Jacquard weave

Linen can be developed in serge, herringbone, glen plaids, double-weaves, velvet, floating yarns, gauze, satin...

PRINTING

In earlier day hand printing were introduced on linen fabric such as batik and block.

Now a day machine printing is more popular such as discharge, screen, roller, resist, stencil printing.

FINISHES

Water repellency, flame resistance shrinkage control mercerization, tentering, bleaching, stiffening, scouring, shirinking and calendaring etc. are applied in linen fabric

Embroideries is an art of decorating fabric with the help of needle and thread or yarn.

EMBROIDERIES

Embroideries may also incorporate other material such

as metal, strips, pearls, beads etc

ULTRASONIC ASSISTED

WET PROCESSIN

G

DIGITAL PRINTING

TECHNOLOGY

NANO TECHNOLOG

Y

BIO-TECHNOLOG

Y

PLASMA TECHNOLOG

Y

NEW TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PROCESSING OF LINEN

CONCLUSION At last we can say that there is various difference in the tools and equipment which we used for the processing of natural fibers. New tools and equipment play a very important role because they consume the time, energy, and give the good quality of fiber and their product. Different types of techniques were applied in the fiber and decorate the different- different design and also give the different finishes of the fiber.

Questions Invited