STUDY REPORT

Tapping Real Potential of Better Cotton

Initiative through Value Addition

February 2015

Prepared by

3rd Floor, Building 115, Sector 44, Gurgaon - 122 002, India

www.wazir.in

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Table of Contents List of Abbreviations Used ............................................................................................................................ 2

Preamble ....................................................................................................................................................... 3

1. Better Cotton Project in Kenya ............................................................................................................. 5

1.1 Project Rationale ........................................................................................................................... 6

1.2 Project Objectives ......................................................................................................................... 7

1.3 Project Targets .............................................................................................................................. 7

1.4 Project Milestones ........................................................................................................................ 8

1.5 Implementing Partners ................................................................................................................. 8

1.6 Organization and Implementation Strategy ................................................................................. 9

1.7 Current Project Status ................................................................................................................. 10

1.8 Activities Done So Far ................................................................................................................. 12

2. Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) – An Introduction ................................................................................. 14

2.1 Background ................................................................................................................................. 15

2.2 Aim of BCI .................................................................................................................................... 16

2.3 BCI History ................................................................................................................................... 16

2.4 Members and Partners ............................................................................................................... 17

2.5 Benefits of BCI and Better Cotton ............................................................................................... 19

2.6 Better Cotton Standard System .................................................................................................. 20

2.7 Implementation Model ............................................................................................................... 25

2.8 Process of Partnering .................................................................................................................. 26

2.9 Achievements and Targets .......................................................................................................... 30

2.10 BCI Success Stories ...................................................................................................................... 32

3. Promoting Value Addition under Better Cotton Initiative .................................................................. 38

3.1 Synopsis....................................................................................................................................... 39

3.2 Planned Activities ........................................................................................................................ 39

3.3 Project Partners .......................................................................................................................... 42

3.4 Project Management and Implementation ................................................................................ 43

3.5 Expected Benefits ....................................................................................................................... 44

3.6 Way Ahead .................................................................................................................................. 45

Annexure ..................................................................................................................................................... 46

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List of Abbreviations Used

ACTIF African Cotton & Textile Industries Federation

BCFTP Better Cotton Fast Track Program

BCI Better Cotton Initiative

CA Cotton Australia

CmiA Cotton made in Africa

CoC Chain of Custody

CODA Cotton Development Authority

FF Field Facilitator

FSP Farmer Support Programme

ha Hectare

IDH the Sustainable Trade Initiative

IMS Internal Management System

IP Implementing Partner

IPUD the Good Cotton Practices Association

IPM Integrated Pest Management

IRFT International Resources for Fairer Trade

KARI Kenya Agricultural Research Institute

LG Learning Group

MOA Ministry of Agriculture

MBa Mass-Balance

MT Metric Ton

myBMP my Best Management Practices

NEMA National Environment Management Authority

PU Producer Unit

RVP Rift Valley Products Limited

SACCO Savings and Credit Cooperative Society

TRAC TradeMark East Africa Challenge Fund

VAA Value Added in Africa

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Preamble

Cotton was introduced in Kenya in the year 1902 by British Colonial administration. In the year 1953,

Cotton Lint and Seed Marketing Board was established by the Government whose major role was to

undertake production, processing and marketing of the cotton sector. At the same time, the Cooperative

Unions were also formed to handle primary activities like input supply and payment to the farmers.

At the time of independence, the industry was dominated by the private ginners. Over the next ten years,

Government provided a lot of support in the form of well organised marketing system and timely

payments. In addition to this, the Government also invested in number of textile mills which largely

supplied to the large private apparel manufacturers.

Kenya's cotton industry was largely controlled by Cotton Board of Kenya till 1991. However, the

Government decided to liberate the sector in 1991 and allowed private investors to participate in the

cotton sector. As a result of this, the Government support started declining, and this subsequently

resulted in the decline in cotton production.

Table 1: Cotton Production Statistics in Kenya

Period Average Cotton

Production (‘000 MT) Kenya’s share in

AGOA region1

1970-1979 6.9 1.6%

1980-1989 7.6 1.7%

1990-1999 5.2 0.6%

2000-2009 5.9 0.7%

2010-2013 7.7 0.9%

Data Source: National Cotton Council of America Database

Cotton production has shown a continuous declining trend since 1990. Though it has picked up marginally

in last few years but the share of Kenya’s cotton production in AGOA region still remains low as compared

to that in 1970s and 1980s. The sector currently faces challenges including low yields, lack of credit

availability, use of age-old growing techniques, competition from synthetics, cheap imports of second

hand clothes, high production cost, etc.

The current revival in production is encouraging. In order to further leverage this uptrend, cotton

production in Kenya can be aligned to the global trend of sustainability in agriculture. This will also provide

in-roads to Kenyan cotton in niche markets.

1 AGOA Region constitutes 22 countries of Sub-Saharan Africa taking trade benefits under The African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA)

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With this very aim, Cotton Development Authority (CODA), along with Solidaridad has initiated a project

to improve productivity and marketability of Cotton through Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) in Kenya. The

project is expected to increase sustainable cotton production in Kerio Valley in Kenya through increased

capacity and participation of smallholders in the cotton value chain. Under the project, small landholders

will be imparted with knowledge and skills to produce cotton using sustainable techniques. This will

include introduction of Better Cotton farming methods coupled with integrated pest management

practices. Higher cotton yields will lead to increased earnings improving livelihoods of farmers and poverty

alleviation.

However, in order to go a step ahead and harness the real potential, Kenyan textile industry needs to

focus on converting home-grown BCI Cotton into yarn, fabrics or garments. The ultimate aim has to be

exports of finished goods (garments or home textiles) or at most, intermediate textile products (yarns and

fabrics) rather than the raw fibre. Conversion of BCI cotton, or “value addition”, within the country will

add to employment and export earnings. To support this, there is a need to create awareness among the

global buyers of such products made in Kenya so that there is a pull from buyer’s side also which can

sensitize textile producers for making BCI cotton products.

To facilitate this buyer and industry sensitization process, African Cotton and Textile Industries Federation

(ACTIF) has taken the support from TradeMark East Africa Challenge Fund (TRAC) to create awareness

among ginners and value addition partners in Kenya and also connect them with global buyers.

For this, ACTIF has engaged two international agencies – Wazir Advisors, India and Value Added in Africa

(VAA), UK. Wazir Advisors is a management consulting firm with special focus on global textile industry

which will support ACTIF in engaging with value addition partners through reports, workshops, and factory

visits. VAA helps to build sustainable channels to market for African products, including cotton products.

VAA will act as a trade facilitator between Kenyan BCI cotton product manufacturers and European brands

& retailers, by marketing and promoting BCI cotton products in target markets.

This particular report is one of the deliverables which is intended for Kenyan value addition partners. The

purpose of this report is to explain the project context to industry, help them understand the benefit of

partnering and explain the way to do so.

The first chapter of this report titled ‘Better Cotton Project in Kenya’ explains the project which is going

on in Kenya for BCI cotton production. It explains the objectives & targets of the project and also the

current status. The second chapter titled ‘Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) – An Introduction’ explains what

BCI is and how it is beneficial for growers, industries and environment. It covers the genesis of this

initiative and its progress in various countries so far. The third chapter, ‘Promoting Value Addition under

Better Cotton Initiative’ describes the activities to be performed by the project partners for value addition

process. It elaborates the benefits of the Better Cotton production and the process that a manufacturer

needs to adopt for partnering with ACTIF to take the advantage of technical and marketing support being

provided under this assignment.

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1. Better Cotton Project in Kenya

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1.1 Project Rationale

In 1970s, Kenya was a major regional producer of cotton both for indigenous consumption and for exports.

During the liberalization era post 90s, cotton production collapsed and reached an all-time low of 15,000

bales in the year 19942. This drastic collapse was attributed to several reasons including reduction in

Government support, an ineffective regulatory and marketing framework, lack of access to credit

combined with high cost of production and ineffective pesticides.

Figure 1: Cotton Production and Usage in Kenya

Data Source: National Cotton Council of America Database

Since 2006, Kenya’s cotton production has started to increase, though not consistently. Several initiatives

are being taken simultaneously by Government as well as industry to ensure that this uptrend maintains

its pace. However, in order to gain perpetual benefits it is desirable that cotton production should be

aligned with the global trend of sustainability in agriculture. Hence there is a need to introduce Better

Cotton in the country.

2 Data source: Database of National Cotton Council of America. Retrieved on 18th December 2014

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

1970 1974 1978 1982 1986 1990 1994 1998 2002 2006 2010 2014

Production(in '000 bales)

Mill Use(in '000 bales)

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1.2 Project Objectives

Cotton Development Authority (CODA) in association with Solidaridad, has taken up this very initiative of

training farmers in Kerio Valley, Kenya for sustainable techniques of cotton production. This will introduce

farmers to Better Cotton farming methods and integrated pest management practices which will result in

better productivity of cotton and rotational crops. Increased cotton output from same farms will lead to

increased earnings for the farmer, uplifting their livelihoods. The purpose of this project is:

a. Reduction in cost of production and increase in efficiency leading to better income

b. Reduction in harmful effects of chemicals on environment and human beings

c. Optimization in rain water usage through innovative water harvesting techniques

d. Creation of awareness on labour issues

e. Soil fertility management to increase value and health of the soils

f. Increase capacity and skills of smallholders to produce sustainable cotton

g. Built strong institutions in Kenya to be BCI lead agents in the region

h. Increase capacity of ginners to access value added markets because of traceability system

i. Replication of Better Cotton in other regions of Kenya and neighbouring countries

1.3 Project Targets

Following targets have been set for the project:

1. The project aims to produce the first Better Cotton in the second year of implementation. The first

year shall be a learning and institutionalization phase.

2. Farmer coverage, area and production targets in 3 years:

Table 2: BCI Target in Kerio Valley for First 3 Years

Production Period -> Year 1 Year 2 Year 3

Target number of farmers 1,500 3,000 6,000

Target number of villages 22 22 22

Target area (Hectare) 800 1,600 2,500

Target production (MT seed cotton) 600 1,200 2,500

3. 30% women to actively participate in cotton production and marketing

4. CODA to become global agent in BCI through institutional support

5. Decent work to become a norm in Kerio Valley community with 100% compliance

6. Productivity to increase by 30% per hectare

7. Prevalence of soil erosion to reduce by 30%

8. Chemical use and disposal-effect of chemicals to reduce by 20%

9. Improved water use efficiency through conservation structures

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1.4 Project Milestones

Milestone 1: Till Jan 2015

Achieve at least 1,000 farmers participation

Awareness Creation among ginners, yarn, fabric and garment manufacturers

Completed & approved consultant project study report for value addition partners

Milestone 2: Feb to May 2015

BCI Certification for at least 700 farmers

BCI Membership for 2 Textile Mills and 3 Garment Manufacturers

Milestone 3: June to Sep 2015

Creating 150 Manufacturing jobs

Producing 800 MT of fabric under BCI

Producing 1 Million pieces of apparel

Milestone 4: Oct to Dec 2015

33% Increase in farmer cash incomes derived from BCI cotton

BCI exports recorded

1.5 Implementing Partners

Cotton Development Authority (CODA)

Cotton Development Authority is a Regulatory State Corporation under the Ministry of Agriculture

established under section 4 of the Cotton (Amendment) Act, 2006. The Authority is a corporate body

established by an act of Parliament to provide for promotion of the cotton industry and for connected

purposes. The Board of the Authority is constituted from farmer's representatives, cotton growers

association, Ginners' Association and Government departments. The day to day activities are run by the

Management headed by the CEO and technical officers. The Authority has 2 regional offices in Kisumu &

Kitui, and 6 zonal offices in Homabay, Bungoma, Kabarnet, Malindi, Garissa and Meru.

The principal objective of the Authority is to promote, coordinate, direct and regulate the production,

processing and marketing of cotton in Kenya. It promotes cotton production system that is sustainable

through adoption of better cotton production principles that emphasize on integrated crop management,

efficient water use, soil management and decent work conditions. It participates in negotiations aimed at

increasing consumption of Kenyan cotton and other value added cotton products to promote integration

of the value chain. CODA is continuously improving its information system network to facilitate public

access to cotton information and data including automation of service delivery processes to improve

efficiency and speed for informed decision making by stakeholders.

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The role of CODA in this project is in overall coordination at the zonal level including establishing

stakeholder forums and inspection and verification of the Better Cotton system.

Solidaridad

Solidaridad is an international civil society organization with more than 45 years of global experience in

facilitating the development of socially responsible, ecologically sound, and profitable supply chains.

Solidaridad works across 12 supply chains and operates through 10 regional offices on 5 continents. It

works on sustainable production chains from producer to consumer so that farmers get a fair price for

their products and have access to the (global) market.

Solidaridad trains farmers in new farming techniques, helps to set up cooperations, and supports

production that meets the social and environmental criteria of certification programmes (such as UTZ

Certified, Max Havelaar and SA 8000). Better farming techniques and collaboration bring farmers a better

harvest in terms of both quantity and quality. By meeting social and environmental criteria, producers

qualify for certification and can then sell their products for a higher price. This leads to improved incomes

and secure livelihoods.

Solidaridad works with producers, companies and civil society organizations to organize the production,

export, import, processing and sale of certified sustainably produced products. These products reach the

market either as end products (such as Oké bananas) or as ingredients for companies to process into end

products (such as coffee, soy, cotton and cocoa). Sustainable products can come onto the market under

fair-trade consumer brands (such as Café Oké or Kuyichi jeans), or under the manufacturer’s own brand

names, with quality mark (such as UTZ Certified or Made-By). Solidaridad provides information about

sustainable trade and stimulates the consumption of sustainably produced goods through education and

campaigns.

1.6 Organization and Implementation Strategy

This project has adopted a multi-stakeholder approach. There are several stakeholders involved in the

planning and implementation. At the National level, Fibre Crops Directorate headquarters is in regular

consultations with BCI and Solidaridad on key aspects of the project including BCI system, FSP reporting

and monitoring requirements, and budget execution. Also close relationship and consultations are there

with ACTIF on regional and national supply chain issues in cotton and with RVP in relation with ginning

and Pro-Cotton component of the project. The already formed National BCI Council will go further in

strengthening stakeholder relationships and developing a scaling-up methodology for Better Cotton in

Kenya.

At the project area level, the Fibre Crops Directorate Zonal office is in-charge of project coordination,

monitoring and evaluation. The Producer Unit (PU) manager in consultation with the Zonal Office executes

it producer support mandate with the smallholders. Regular planning and review meetings are held to

assess the progress of the project. All the 30 LGs have been allocated a FF who in consultation with the

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group’s office bearers and Fibre Crops Directorate zonal office plan for trainings in line with the Training

Plan and work plan.

A feedback mechanism has been developed for FF and farmers to the PU and Zonal office. The FF reports

back on all activities while specific training data is collected for review during monthly review and planning

meetings.

Boresha SACCO offers credit to smallholders on contract farming and is also involved in training the LGs

on access to credit and financial management. Planet Guarantee provides insurance on credit advanced

to smallholders. This cover is only for credits in case of crop damage resulting from drought.

Other expert departments are invited by Fibre Crops Directorate Zonal Manager to offer specialized

trainings when required. These areas include child labour, environmental management and soil and water

management.

1.7 Current Project Status

The implementation phase has begun. Training of LGs is on-going on criteria in line with current farming

activities. Two documentation assistants have been engaged to assist the LGs and PU in collecting, and

reporting on key data areas including farm activities and income & livelihoods dynamics of the

smallholders.

The FFs are drawn from the following collaborating institutions:

State Department of Agriculture (Elgeiyo-Marakwet and Baringo Counties)

Fibre Crops Directorate

Rift Valley Products (RVP)

The LGs have so far received trainings after conducting the following activities:

Mapping of registered farmers

Sensitization of farmers on Learning Groups

Formation of Learning Groups

Election of lead farmers

Issuance of farmers field books and biro pens

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Table 3: Smallholders Registered in 2013 and 2014

2013 2014

CENTRE FARMERS MALE FEMALE TOTAL MALE FEMALE TOTAL

SALAWA/KIPSOIT CONTRACT 6 8 14 27 9 36

PRIVATE 5 1 6 15 1 16

TOTAL 20 52

KAPTARA CONTRACT 15 11 26 30 13 43

PRIVATE 9 2 11 37 12 49

TOTAL 37 92

KAPLUK CONTRACT 72 53 125 47 28 75

PRIVATE 14 11 25 31 12 43

TOTAL 150 118

MUCHUKWO/TURUTURU CONTRACT 49 25 74 87 28 115

PRIVATE 9 2 11 14 3 17

TOTAL 85 132

KETURWO CONTRACT 30 14 44 41 20 61

PRIVATE 11 0 11 4 0 4

TOTAL 55 65

KONOO CONTRACT 8 8 16 10 4 14

PRIVATE 4 3 7 15 6 21

TOTAL 23 35

BARWESSA CONTRACT 22 14 36 36 19 55

PRIVATE 1 0 1 14 4 18

TOTAL 37 73

KAMPINYASI CONTRACT 31 17 48 19 16 35

PRIVATE 2 0 2 18 3 21

TOTAL 50 56

KUIKUI CONTRACT 24 10 34 27 11 38

PRIVATE 11 0 11 22 6 28

TOTAL 45 66

MAREGUT CONTRACT 31 14 45 19 7 26

PRIVATE 14 11 25 20 7 27

TOTAL 70 53

TILINGWO CONTRACT 21 27 48 25 20 45

PRIVATE 16 15 31 9 4 13

TOTAL 79 58

CHEPSIGOT CONTRACT 11 2 13 11 1 12

PRIVATE 1 0 1 0 0 0

TOTAL 14 12

CHEGILET CONTRACT 89 22 111 59 23 82

PRIVATE 20 6 26 12 1 13

TOTAL 137 95

GRAND TOTAL 526 276 802 649 258 907

The key training themes for this period have been crop protection (i.e. IPM), water management, soil

health, decent work and fibre quality. The training has started from 4th June, 2014 and is continuing till

date. The farmers reached so far are 514 in the training, compared to the registered 907 in the 30 LGs

formed.

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1.8 Activities Done So Far

i. Farmers sensitization meetings

This activity involved holding of Barazas in buying centers at Chegilet, Chepsigot, Salawa, Kipsoli, Kaptara,

Muchukwo, Katibel, Barwesa, Kapluk, Keturwo and Tilingwo. Stakeholders involved in the meetings

included State Department of Agriculture, Department of Cooperative Development and Marketing,

Cotton Department Authority, Kenya Forestry Service, Boresha SACCO and Rift Valley Products. During

the sensitization meetings, the farmers were introduced to BCI principles and objectives. The key issues

discussed with farmers included socio-economic and environmental benefits of Better Cotton, and

building strong stakeholder partnerships with smallholders on focus for increased productivity, health and

environmental conservation.

ii. Baseline Survey

As required by the BCI system, this study was conducted between January and February 2014 by SEWA

Business Services. The report was adopted during the National Stakeholder Workshop in February, 2014.

The key areas for interventions recommended by the report have formed an important basis for the

project activities in Kerio Valley. Such areas are: Building strong stakeholder relationships especially

between Rift Valley Products (RVP), Fibre Crops Directorate, Smallholders and Boresha SACCO; and

Concern for the environment and labour relations/health of smallholders. The scoping study report is an

important reference document for the project.

iii. BCI Kenya multi-stakeholder workshops

BCI believes in building strong partnerships to strengthen the business case for BCI and to deliberately

move towards tapping sources of investments into the value chain. A regional approach and national

approach have been used to achieve this aim. At the project area, 2 Stakeholder consultative forums have

held while two national BCI workshops and BCI council has been held. At the National Level, BCI, CODA

and Solidaridad convened a workshop of 37 Stakeholders to discuss the Baseline Study report and set up

national BCI agenda. One of the way forward agreed was the formation of National BCI Council, which has

been constituted and mandated to develop a national BCI roadmap. The BCI Council held their first

meeting in Nairobi.

iv. BCI Implementation Partner (IP) Training

The BCI system thrives on capacity building for smallholders. The training requirement criteria are key to

certification. In February, the BCI organized 3-day partners’ training for 38 participants. Among these were

15 Field Facilitators (FF) who are currently involved in Learning Groups (LG) trainings. This has assisted the

FF to offer quality trainings to smallholders. Training of lead farmers was done for 28 lead farmers and re-

training of field facilitators from Rift Valley was done.

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v. Formation of project implementation team

This is a group of officers drawn from Fibre Crops Directorate, Ministry of Agriculture (MOA) and Rift

Valley Products (RVP). This acts as a technical team to guide project planning, implementation,

communication, monitoring and evaluation. The team holds monthly planning and review meetings at the

project area using reference documents like work plans, training plans, BCI criteria and principles.

vi. Establishment of demonstration plots

Under the Pro-Cotton component of the project, 15 demo plots have been established and 15 additional

were established under BCI component. This adds up to 30 meaning that each LG has a demo plot for

learning and exchanges. Appropriate inputs have been supplied for establishment of demos. The demo

kit has been given to all LGs.

vii. Soil Testing

Samples of soils have been collected by Fibre Crops Directorate/MOA and presented for testing at the

KARI. The results indicate that the soils have similar soil fertility, soil pH is satisfactory for crops growth,

soil is deficient in nitrogen and organic matter should be improved by applying 2-4 tons/acre of well

decomposed manure before planting and top-dressing with 50 kg/acre of Calcium Ammonium Nitrate.

viii. Training of group leaders & lead farmers on group dynamics

Training is an ongoing process through village level sensitization meetings which has been held twice for

lead farmers, Rift Valley Products (RVP) agents and Ministry of Agriculture (MOA) staff.

ix. Organizing field days

Two field days were organized by Fibre Crops Directorate and MOA at Chegilet and Keturwo, where the

farmers groups were given seven spraying pumps during the field day at Chegilet.

x. Forming Learning Groups (LGs)

The LG is key entry point for capacity building and BCI certification. 22 Smallholder’s sensitization

meetings have been held reaching directly 350 farmers and indirectly 600 farmers. A total of 30 LGs have

been formed with an average membership of 25 farmers and a total registered number of farmers being

907. Each group has been assigned a FF who provides on farm trainings with close supervision and

backstopping from Fibre Crops Directorate and PU Manager.

xi. Holding of Planning Meetings

Series of monthly planning meeting have been held at the zonal level. This involved stakeholders from

Fibre Crops Directorate, Cooperative, NEMA, Forestry Dept., Department of Agriculture and RVP.

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2. Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) – An

Introduction

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2.1 Background

Cotton is the world’s most important natural fibre. In 2013, out of the total 90 million tons of fibre

consumed globally, approx. 23.55 million tons was cotton3. Approx. 75% of cotton usage is for apparel

end-use, while 18% goes for home furnishings and rest 7% is used in industrial products4. In 2013, cotton

was produced in 85 countries around the world, supporting 250 million people’s livelihoods5. Four largest

cotton producing nations viz. India, China, United States and Pakistan account for approx. 72% of global

production6. Cotton plays a major role in the economy of many cotton producing countries.

Despite the fact that cotton is a biodegradable and a renewable natural resource, its production has some

negative impacts on the environment such as:

Cotton consumes very high quantity of water. The global average water footprint of cotton fabric

is 10,000 litre per kilogram. It means that one cotton shirt of 250 gram requires 2,500 litre of

water. The footprint value varies significantly from country to country, for example - water

footprint of cotton fabric made with cotton from China is 6,000 litre/kg, from India it is 22,500

litre/kg, and for cotton from Uzbekistan is 9,200 litre/kg.7

Cotton crop also requires high use of pesticides, insecticides and other chemicals. Approx. 6% of

the global pesticide used is for cotton production. In some developing countries, this figure climbs

as high as 50%. Out of all agricultural chemicals used worldwide, 10% is used in cotton while its

acreage is just 2.5% of the world's arable land.8

Cotton farming also involves high usage of manufactured nitrogen. This increases its carbon

footprint and can have negative environmental impacts through the contamination of

watercourses.9

There is a growing realization that the current system of cotton production is not sustainable. Lack of

visibility in the supply chain is one issue. Another is the multiple levels of growing, processing and

transactions in which short term opportunities can seem more valuable than long term security. The

people working in cotton farming also face challenges. Living in poverty, with high rates of illiteracy

combined with the use of toxic pesticides and child labour means that many pay a high personal price to

grow and pick cotton. In order to address these problems, the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) was formed

in 2005. It aims to make global cotton production better for the people who produce it, better for the

environment it grows in and better for the sector’s future.

3 Data source: Fiber Year 2013 report 4 Data source: Website of National Cotton Council, USA (www.cotton.org).Retrieved on 19th December 2014 5 Data Source: Website of Better Cotton Initiative (www.bettercotton.org). Retrieved on 19th December 2014 6 Data source: Website of National Cotton Council, USA (www.cotton.org). Retrieved on 19th December 2014 7 Data source: Website of Water Footprint Network (www.waterfootprint.org). Retrieved on 19th December 2014 8 Data source: Website of IDH (http://www.idhsustainabletrade.com/). Retrieved on 19th December 2014 9 Data source: Website of IDH (http://www.idhsustainabletrade.com/). Retrieved on 19th December 2014

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Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) is an organization working to increase global cotton production and to

attain a sustainable mainstream commodity called Better Cotton. It is a demand-driven mechanism

aimed principally for capacity-building at the initial production stage. In-the-field training, support and

measurement of production methods help farmers reduce environmental impact while increasing

efficiency and productivity. It is a not-for-profit organization stewarding the global standards for Better

Cotton, and bringing together complete cotton supply chain, from the farmers to the retailers.

2.2 Aim of BCI

BCI has following 4 specific aims:

i. Reduce the environmental impact of cotton production

ii. Improve livelihoods and economic development in cotton producing areas

iii. Improve commitment to and flow of Better Cotton throughout supply chain

iv. Ensure the credibility and sustainability of the Better Cotton Initiative

2.3 BCI History

2005:

As part of a ‘round table’ initiative led by WWF which convened world experts on different

commodities, different initiatives were born all with the goal of finding more sustainable solutions

for farmers, for the environment, and for the future of each sector. The Better Cotton Initiative

was one of them. It was initially supported by a number of major organizations including Adidas,

Gap Inc., H&M, ICCO, IFAP, IFC, IKEA, Organic Exchange, Oxfam, PAN UK and WWF.

2007-2009: Preparation Phase

A small BCI team worked to generate interest for supply and demand, and secure the interest of

organizations across sectors and continents.

2009:

BCI was established as an independent organization, and published the first Better Cotton global

standards known as the Better Cotton Production Principles and Criteria, the cornerstone of the

Better Cotton Standard System.

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2009-2010:

The Better Cotton Fast Track Program (BCFTP) was launched as an independent investment

vehicle managed by IDH (the Sustainable Trade Initiative), to channel funds directly to farmer

training and improvement programs.

2010-2012: Implementation Phase

During a key three year start-up phase, BCI’s geographical focus was on four regions: Brazil, India,

Pakistan and West & Central Africa. These regions include a diversity of climatic conditions, farm

sizes, agricultural practices and environmental and social impacts; which helped BCI to test the

concept of Better Cotton and improve and refine the concept for further expansion.

Exploring the possibility of working with other organizations and countries continued to see how

the Better Cotton Standard System can be implemented in other regions.

2010-2011: Harvest Season

The first harvests of Better Cotton took place in Brazil, India, Mali and Pakistan.

2012:

Better Cotton was harvested in China.

2013:

Better Cotton was harvested in Tajikistan, Turkey and Mozambique.

The Better Cotton Tracer was launched as an online tracking system for BCI members to record

all transactions of Better Cotton across the supply chain. This was the first such system anywhere

in the world, tracking a commodity right through the value chain.

An open-ended partnership agreement was signed between BCI and Cotton made in Africa

(CmiA), aligning the two standards so that CmiA cotton can be sold as Better Cotton, helping to

increase the global supply of Better Cotton.

2.4 Members and Partners

BCI works with a diverse range of stakeholders across the cotton supply chain to promote measurable and

continuing improvements in all aspects of cotton production. Type of stakeholders are tabulated below:

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Table 4: Type of Stakeholders under BCI

Type Description

Smallholders Farmers which are not structurally dependent on permanent hired labour. Farm size

up to 20 ha of cotton.

Medium Farms Farmers which are structurally dependent on permanent hired labour. Farm size

between 20 to 200 ha of cotton.

Large Farms Farmers which are structurally dependent on permanent hired labour. Farm size is

above 200 ha of cotton.

Learning Groups

(LG)

Smallholders are organized into Learning Groups. A lead farmer is identified for each

Learning Groups based on the existing leadership of the group. The LG size should be

defined according to local circumstances (e.g. farm size, transport logistics of seed

cotton), with an optimal LG size of 35 farmers (minimum 25/ maximum 40).

Implementing

Partner (IP)

Implementing Partners (IPs) are organizations interested in working with cotton

farmers to enable them to grow Better Cotton. They are linked to BCI through a

specific contract (i.e. Implementation Partnership Agreement). They are responsible

for creating an enabling environment for the farmers to participate in the Better

Cotton Standard System and to grow and sell Better Cotton. As of now, there are 29

implementing partners working to promote the production of Better cotton across

the globe.10

Field Facilitators

(FF)

Facilitators are selected (and paid) by the Implementing Partners and trained by BCI.

It supports Learning Group and medium farms to achieve the Minimum and

Improvement Requirements through ongoing support during the season.

Producer Unit

(PU)

A number of Learning Groups or medium farms form a Producer Unit (PU). Each PU

has an Internal Management System (IMS) in place, coordinated by Producer Unit

Manager (PU Manager). Each PU must have its own PU manager. The PU Manager is

selected by the Implementing Partner and trained by BCI. Optimal size per Producer

Unit is 100 LGs or 100 farmers having medium farms.

BCI Country

Manager

Country Managers take the final decision on licensing and thus the selling of Better

Cotton by the Producer Unit. BCI Country Managers are the contact point for BCI in

that country/region, and are responsible for oversight of the implementation of the

Better Cotton Standard System.

Strategic

Partners

BCI also engages with different institutions in medium & long-term alliances to foster

Better Cotton production worldwide. These partners take significant leadership for

Better Cotton in their specific area and they aim to fully operate on behalf of BCI.

They are linked to BCI through a specific contract (i.e. Partnership Agreement).

10 Data Source: Website of Better Cotton Initiative (www.bettercotton.org). Retrieved on 19th December 2014

Page | 19

Type Description

BCI Secretariat The Secretariat is responsible for coordinating the 3rd party verification process

globally.

Independent

Verifier

The BCI works with 3rd party verifiers to ensure the credibility of the self-assessment

process.

BCI member organizations which are producing, trading, processing, and marketing consumer products

increased to a total of 360 by the end of 2014. BCI Retailer and Brand members represented almost 10%

of the world’s total cotton consumption by the end of the year.11

Figure 2: Membership Structure of BCI 2014

Data Source: BCI website

2.5 Benefits of BCI and Better Cotton

BCI carries benefits for the farmers engaged in the production and at the same time as it is supported by

major global brands and retailers creates marketing opportunities for the manufacturers.

Potential Benefits for Farmers

Cotton of greater and more consistent quality

Improved yields, lower input costs and increased profit

Empowering farmers to negotiate / advocate (through enabling producer organization)

Meeting market demand for ‘Better Cotton’

Improved access to affordable finance

Long-term sustainability of agricultural activity (soil fertility, environmental health, etc.)

11 Data Source: Website of Better Cotton Initiative (www.bettercotton.org). Retrieved on 19th December 2014.

Suppliers and Manufacturers;

82%

Retail and Brands; 9%

Producer Organisation; 4%

Civil Society; 3%Assosiate

Members; 2%

Page | 20

Improved health conditions for farmers/workers and the family/community

Improved access to information

Potential Benefits for Manufacturers

Better Cotton is transformational, aiming to become a mainstream solution for more

sustainable cotton. Thus, securing supply in an unpredictable commodity market.

Better Cotton already has buy-in by business, supported by major global brands and

retailers and actors from across the cotton supply chain.

2.6 Better Cotton Standard System

The Better Cotton Standard System is a holistic approach to sustainable cotton production operating with

six major components listed below:

2.6.1 Production Principles and Criteria

Production Principles and Criteria upholds the following 6 principles.

Table 5: Production Principles and Criteria of Better Cotton Standard System

S. No. Principle Practices

1. To minimize the

harmful impact of crop

protection practices

Use of nationally registered pesticides for the crop being treated

and not to use the pesticides banned by WHO.

Practices for preventing buildup of pest population and spread of

the disease are adopted.

Practices for preservation and enhancement of population of

beneficial organisms are adopted.

Regular field observations of the crop’s health and key pest and

beneficial insects.

2. Use water efficiently

and care for the

availability of water

Water Management practices are adopted that optimize water

use.

Management practices are adopted to ensure that water

extraction does not cause adverse effect on ground water or water-

bodies.

3. Care for the health of

the soil

Soil Management practices are adopted that maintain and enhance

the structure and fertility of soil by optimized use of nutrients.

Management practices to minimize soil erosion are adopted.

4. Conserve natural

habitats

Practices are adopted to enhance biodiversity on and around the

farm.

The use and conversion of land conforms with national legislation

related to agricultural land use.

Page | 21

S. No. Principle Practices

5. Preserve the quality of

the fibre

Practices are adopted to upgrade fibre quality.

Seed cotton are harvested, managed and stored to minimize trash

contamination and damage.

6. Promote decent work Should not object formation of associations and collective

bargaining.

Taking care of health and safety of employees.

Maintaining healthy employment conditions.

Basic treatment and disciplinary practices.

No child/forced labour.

2.6.2 Capacity Building

BCI coordinates a capacity building program, delivered through experienced Implementing Partners, to

help farmers to adopt practices consistent with the Better Cotton Production Principles. It invests in

capacity building upfront also.

To enable increased capacity and credibility of Implementing Partners, BCI carries out a number of

activities like:

A consistent and stringent endorsement process of partners before implementation.

A train-the-trainer program for Implementing Partners on how to grow Better Cotton with

support of BCI’s Global Training Partner, International Resources for Fairer Trade (IRFT).

Regular monitoring of IPs performance during implementation.

Fostering learning between Implementing Partners through the sharing of best practices.

Figure 3: Capacity Building Flow Chart

Page | 22

2.6.3 Assurance Program

It is a process of understanding, planning, doing, learning and improving, strengthened by investments

made in the capacity building of farmers and partners. The program has following two components:

a) Better Cotton Performance Scale:

It is an indicative measure of minimum requirements and improvement requirements for Better Cotton

Production. Minimum requirement criteria is indicative measure of minimum production criteria and

management criteria while improvement requirement is to promote improvement in practices by

rewarding farmer’s performance year-on-year.

Figure 4: BCI Performance Scale

b) Better Cotton Assessment Mechanism:

Assessment mechanism is the process of evaluating the result indicators. It takes place at different levels

by different groups of stakeholders. Produced units are licensed to be sold as BCI after clearing all levels

of assessments (self-assessment, 2nd party assessment and 3rd party assessment).

Page | 23

Figure 5: Better Cotton Assessment Mechanism

2.6.4 Chain of Custody

Once cotton is licensed to be sold as Better Cotton, it flows down to the supply chain. Chain of Custody

(or CoC) is the key mechanism for determining the authenticity of the cotton in the supply chain. It is

documentation or chronological trail which shows the order of ownership in the Better Cotton supply

chain.

Figure 6: Chain of Custody

Page | 24

Two distinct Chain of Custody mechanisms used are

From farm to gin level

Better Cotton is kept physically separate from conventional cotton at the gin level in all countries. Once it

has been determined that a Producer Unit/ Large Farm complies with the requirements with growing

Better Cotton, they are licensed to sell Better Cotton, and are issued with a License number by BCI along

with the volume of Better Cotton that has been licensed for that PU / Large Farm. This unique number is

required by the ginner to declare purchases of Better Cotton in the Traceability System, and therefore

needs to be provided by the farmer to the ginner at the time of delivering their cotton to the ginner.

Figure 7: Chain of Custody at Gin level

Administrative Mass-Balance (MBa) mechanism

According to CoC of Administrative Mass-Balance (MBa) mechanism, claims about volumes out must

match the volume of Better Cotton claim/data or physical product purchased by the supply chain actor.

This balance will be calculated continuously. This is a system of administrative traceability. An actual

amount of physical Better Cotton need not accompany claims about Better Cotton.

In traceability system, buyer at all levels generates their Purchase Declaration claim and the seller on other

hand generate their Sales Declaration claim. The total quantity of purchase declaration must match the

sales declaration.

2.6.5 Claims Framework

Better Cotton Claims Framework has been designed as the key vehicle which allows members to make

positive and credible claims about their own Better Cotton activities. The Better Cotton Claims Framework

makes it simple for members to make valid claims about Better Cotton use, enabling members to continue

to raise the profile of and promote Better Cotton.

Claims on the use of Better Cotton can be made by all BCI members relative to their membership status,

role in the supply chain, and (for supply chain actors) their levels of Better Cotton use. Claims can be

applied at corporate, brand, and in-store level, and high procurement Retailer & Brand members are

allowed to customize their claims with the approval of BCI.

Page | 25

2.6.6 Result & Impact

BCI measure improvements in production and its environmental, social, and economic impacts by

evaluating result indicator data which is integrated part of Better Cotton Assurance Program.

Independent case studies are also conducted by collecting samples of Better Cotton and conventional

farms. The findings of these case studies are then compared to the Results Indicator data reported by

farmers, and used to check general directional similarities in results.

2.7 Implementation Model

BCI owns the Better Cotton Standard System and is responsible for ensuring that it is credible, accessible,

delivers significant impact and reaches mainstream scale supported by the demand driven funding

strategy known as Better Cotton Fast Track Program (BCFTP). The training and support of farmers is

managed by the Implementing Partners. They focus on collecting and processing the vast amount of

information that flows up from the producers, managing the monitoring and evaluation process, ensuring

adequate take-up through the supply chain, and promoting and facilitating the adoption of Better Cotton

practices wherever cotton is grown.

BCFTP is an independent coalition of Funding partners (leading brands, NGOs & Public Partners) and

Implementing Partners managed by the Sustainable Trade Initiative12. It channelizes funds directly to

farmer through training and capacity-building programs. The program is demand-driven, meaning that

retailers and brands invest based on the demand from their own consumers. Public partners then match

this investment, and the total funds are ploughed into farmer capacity-building projects across the globe.

It encourages the whole supply chain behind the retailers and brands to procure Better Cotton from the

farmers in the field.

Figure 8: BCI Implementation Model

12 Please refer Annexure 1 for details of BCI partners

Page | 26

2.8 Process of Partnering

BCI being a multi-stakeholder initiative, encourages participation from all sections of the supply chain. It

has a membership model where all members can benefit from being associated with Better Cotton,

actively participate in its supply chain, and contribute to making the global cotton sector more sustainable

for the future.

With BCI, the organization can chose between being a basic member (non-procuring) or a registered

member (procuring).

Basic membership means that the organization learn about Better Cotton and sustainability in the

supply chain, while getting ready to become commercially active.

Registered membership means that the organization is taking its engagement one step further,

and are committed to Better Cotton and to making the cotton supply chain a more stable and

secure environment to operate in. As a Ginner, Spinner, Mill, Cut and Sew who is a registered BCI

member, that organization will be trained by BCI on how to process Better Cotton and track it

through the BCI Traceability System. Only registered Suppliers and Manufacturers have access to

the Traceability System. Being a registered Ginner, Spinner, Mill, and Cut and Sew also means that

the organization is marketed by BCI as a trained Supplier and Manufacturer, making it more

attractive to Retailers and Brands.

BCI offer partnership by categorizing its stakeholders in 3 sub categories each of which are detailed ahead:

Page | 27

i. Steps involved in becoming a Better Cotton Producer Unit (smallholders and medium farms

licensing)

Receive external assessment (2nd Party or 3rd Party) before the end of the licensing period

Before expiration of the license, submit self-assessment on Minimum and Improvement Requirements

Submit annual self-assessment on Minimum Requirements to BCI to confirm compliance – Receive follow-up external assessment visits when applicable

Submit results indicators data 12 weeks after harvest (to confirm licensing)

PU becomes a Better Cotton unit and receives license for 1/3/5 years to sell Better Cotton – if not found compliant, submit new self-assessment next season

BCI Country Manager (or Strategic Partner operating on behalf of BCI) decide if Producer Unit grow Better Cotton (yes/no)

Receive external assessment by BCI, Implementing Partner and/or 3rd party verifiers

Submit Self-assessment to BCI (at least 4 weeks before harvest starts) – on Minimum and Improvement Requirements

Establish and implement an Internal Management System (IMS) based on BCI requirements

Take informed decision to participate in the Better Cotton Standard System and join a BCI endorsed Implementing Partner – receive training from a BCI accredited trainer

Page | 28

ii. Steps involved in becoming a Better Cotton farmer (large farm licensing)

Receive re-verification visit before the end of the licensing period

Before expiration of the license, submit self-assessment on Minimum and Improvement Requirements

Submit annual self-assessment on Minimum Requirements to BCI to confirm compliance

Submit results indicators data 12 weeks after harvest (to confirm licensing)

Farmer becomes a Better Cotton farmer and receives license for 1/3/5 years to sell Better Cotton – if not found compliant, submit new self-assessment next season

Verifiers decide if farmers grow Better Cotton (yes/no) and validate duration of the license (calculated automatically from questionnaire)

Receive initial verification visit from 3rd Party verifiers

BCI secretariat contact BCI approved verifier in the region to arrange a visit (the cost of the verification is borne by the large farm)

Submit Self-assessment to BCI (at least 4 weeks before harvest starts) - declare compliance with all Minimum Requirements and submit questionnaire on improvement requirements

Meet the Minimum Requirements

Take informed decision to participate in the Better Cotton Standard System based on BCI documentation and register with BCI

Page | 29

iii. Steps for all other BCI members

The entire process can take up to six weeks from receipt of a complete application.

BCI Leadership Team reviews the application and provides a final decision

Collation and analyses of results by BCI, and providing BCI Leadership Team (CEO and Directors) a recommendation for approval

BCI carries out due diligence research, including an internal consultation with existing members

BCI receives and acknowledge the arrival of the application and check that it is complete

Send the filled application with the requested supporting information

Obtain membership application form by sending an email to membership@bettercotton.org

Page | 30

2.9 Achievements and Targets13

Under Better Cotton Initiative 300,000 farmers in 8 countries have received training out of which about

80% (240,000) farmers met the Standard and 750,000 MT of Better Cotton were licensed (which is over

3% of global cotton production) in 2013.

From 2012 to 2013, there was a four-fold increase in the number of farmers licensed to 690,000 (including

CmiA farmers), the vast majority of whom were smallholders. Since the first Better Cotton harvest in 2010,

the movement has doubled from four countries to eight (14 with the 6 CmiA countries in Africa); and

acreage increased more than ten-fold from 65,000 ha to 700,000 ha (1.3 million including CmiA) while

production increased to 750,000 metric tons.

Figure 9: Global BCI Production Statistics

Data Source: BCI Harvest Report 2013

BCI along with its strategic partners are successfully harvesting crop in 8 different countries. BCI entered

into strategic partnerships with the Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) program which is currently harvesting

crops in 6 different countries and are trading it as BCI cotton, as well as the ABR standard in Brazil. In

addition, an alliance was formed with a newly created national production group (IPUD) in Turkey. Also,

Cotton Australia (CA) and BCI began the benchmarking process of CA’s myBMP standard, which when

completed will allow certified myBMP cotton to be sold as Better Cotton.

13 Data Source: BCI Harvest Report 2013 and Annual Report 2013

28,500 65,000 35,00090,000

250,000200,000164,000

683,000623,000

Farmers Area under cultivation(ha) Lint Produced MT

2010 2011 2012

Page | 31

Figure 10: Global Presence of BCI

Data Source: BCI Harvest Report 2013

BCI is working continuously to achieve the improvement in the flow of Better Cotton throughout supply

chain and to ensure the credibility and sustainability of the Better Cotton Initiative. To transform the aim

into achievements it has set following targets for 2020:

Table 6: BCI Targets

Indicator 2013 actual 2015 target 2020 target

Volume of Better Cotton bought by spinners (MT lint)

no tracking system

1.5 million 4 million

Number of Better Cotton farmers 0.69 million 1 million 5 million

Better Cotton hectares under cultivation 1.3 million 2 million 9 million

Earned income (excluding donations) as % of operating income

0.47 0.75 1

Better Cotton recognized as the global standard for more sustainable mainstream cotton

313 members

Working to define strategic membership target

Data Source: BCI Annual Report 2013

Page | 32

2.10 BCI Success Stories

2.10.1 China

China was world’s largest cotton producer in 2013 and holds the highest spinning capacity. BCFTP invested

over 479,000 Euros (equivalent to 9% of the total project costs) in 9 projects in 2013 (up from 4 in 2012).

In 2013, 8 BCI Implementing Partners worked with 6,066 farmers organised into 116 learning groups and

12 Producer Units. 4,345 farmers in China earned a Better Cotton license.

Figure 11: BCI Cultivating States in China

In 2013, Number of BCI farmers increased to 6,000 from 3,500 in 2012 while Cotton lint raised to 53,000

metric ton in 2013.

Figure 12: Production Statistics for China

Data Source: BCI Harvest Report

3,500

15,000

28,000

6,000

27,000

53,000

Farmers Area under Cultivation (ha) Lint Produced (MT)

2012 2013

Page | 33

Summary of results for smallholder and medium farms of BCI farmers against cotton farmers in China in

2013 is tabulated below:

Table 7: Impacts of Implementing BCI in China

Indicator % Change over Cotton Farmers

Yield + 11%

Water Use - 23%

Pesticide Use - 10%

Organic Fertilizer Use + 42%

Synthetic Fertilizer Use - 1%

Profit +37%

Data Source: BCI Harvest Report

2.10.2 India

India was world’s second largest cotton producer in 2013 and holds the second highest spinning capacity

in the world. BCFTP invested a significant amount of 3 million Euros (equivalent to 54% of the total project

costs) in India. 10 out of 11 cotton growing states in India produced Better cotton. 9 BCI Implementing

Partners worked with 156,895 farmers organized into 5,036 Learning Groups and 57 Producer Units. India

harvested its 5th BCI crop in 2014.

Figure 13: BCI Cultivating States in India

Number of BCI farmers increased ten-folds from 12,500 in 2010 to 146,000 in 2013 and they produced

160,000 MT of Better Cotton lint on 236,000 ha increasing the production to sixteen-folds.

Page | 34

Figure 14: Production Statistics for India

Data Source: BCI Harvest Report

Summary of results for smallholder and medium farms of BCI farmers against cotton farmers in India in

2013 is tabulated below:

Table 8: Impacts of Implementing BCI in India

Indicator % Change over Cotton Farmers

Yield + 18%

Water Use - 14%

Pesticide Use - 22%

Organic Fertilizer Use + 22%

Synthetic Fertilizer Use - 28%

Profit +44%

Data Source: BCI Harvest Report

2.10.3 Pakistan

Pakistan was world’s fourth largest cotton producer in 2013 and holds world’s third largest spinning

capacities with thousands of ginning and spinning units producing textile products from cotton. The cotton

sector, along with the textile and apparel industry, accounts for 11% of GDP and 60% of the country’s

export value. It is cultivated by 1.6 million farmers (over 25% of the total 6 million farmers) mostly with

small holdings less than five hectares of land.

BCFTP invested 1 million Euros in 5 projects across Punjab and Sindh (equivalent to 20% of the total project

costs). Pakistan harvested its 5th crop in 2014. BCI worked with 96,959 farmers organized into 2,962

Learning Groups and 44 Producer Units in 2013 in Pakistan.

12,500 18,000 10,000

35,00047,500

31,500

81,000

137,000

93,000

146,000

236,000

160,000

Farmers Area under Cultivation (ha) Lint Produced (MT)

2010 2011 2012 2013

Page | 35

Figure 15: BCI Cultivating States in Pakistan

In 2013, 46,500 Better Cotton farmers produced 157,000 MT of Better Cotton lint on 193,000 ha.

Figure 16: Production Statistics for Pakistan

Data Source: BCI Harvest Report

Summary of results for smallholder and medium farms of BCI farmers against cotton farmers in Pakistan

in 2013 is tabulated below:

Table 9: Impacts of Implementing BCI in Pakistan

Indicator % Change over Cotton Farmers

Yield + 15%

Water Use - 14%

Pesticide Use - 24%

Organic Fertilizer Use + 85%

Synthetic Fertilizer Use - 17%

Profit +42%

Data Source: BCI Harvest Report

12,00039,000

21,00044,000

145,000116,000

59,000

260,000

185,000

46,500

193,000

157,000

Farmers Area under Cultivation (ha) Lint Produced (MT)

2010 2011 2012 2013

Page | 36

2.10.4 Mali

Mali is the second largest producer of cotton on the African continent. The cotton sector is the second

largest source of Mali’s foreign exchange earnings.

In 2013, 2 BCI Implementing Partners worked with 32,788 farmers organized into 1,383 Learning Groups

and 10 Producer Units. All participating farmers in Mali earned a Better Cotton license.

Figure 17: BCI Cultivating States in Mali

Number of BCI formers increased ten-folds from 3,600 in 2010 to 33,000 in 2013 and produced 35,000

MT of Better Cotton lint on 86,000 ha.

Figure 18: Production Statistics for Mali

Data Source: BCI Harvest Report

10,500

32,000

12,50020,500

61,000

24,00033,000

86,000

35,000

Farmers Area under Cultivation (ha) Lint Produced (MT)

2010 2011 2012 2013

Page | 37

Summary of results for smallholder and medium farms of BCI farmers against cotton farmers in Mali in

2013 is tabulated below:

Table 10: Impacts of Implementing BCI in Mali

Indicator % Change over Cotton Farmers

Yield + 8%

Pesticide Use - 60%

Organic Fertilizer Use + 54%

Profit + 14%

Data Source: BCI Harvest Report

Page | 38

3. Promoting Value Addition under Better

Cotton Initiative

Page | 39

3.1 Synopsis

The purpose of this project is to promote BCI cotton production in Kenya, creating its awareness and

acceptance among local textile & apparel producers and link them with target buyers in regional and

international markets.

The project aims to achieve following:

a) Improvement in farm yields and profitability for cotton cultivators by training farmers in best

practices under BCI

b) Linking the value add sector with farmers as well as buyers to optimize the entire value chain

c) Improving trade linkage between export-ready Kenyan vendors and European buyers to create a

value chain pull for local, certified products.

This proposed full value chain project will ensure that full benefit of BCI cotton produced is realized across

the value chain, in following manner:

3.2 Planned Activities

BCI trains farmers for best agriculture practices, on the other hand it has several brands and retailers as

partner which create demand for products made from BCI cotton. As such it has become a “branded”

cotton where in farmers get extra income for their produce as a result of increased yields and capacity

building on good agricultural practices from BCI partners. In Kenya, this is an altogether new initiative.

Starting with few farmers initially, it has the potential to create a downstream effect across the growers

in due course of time. In order to create its visibility along the supply chain and to enjoy long term benefits,

BCI would conduct activities on both manufacturing and market levels, both of which are detailed below:

Improved farm

yields

Better profitability

Consistent demand

supporting

enhanced area

under cultivation

Poverty elimination

and better living

standard for

farmers

Availability of

locally produced

cotton, with an

added USP viz. BCI

Enhanced export

focus through

proposed capacity

building activities

Improved margins

and regular

business

Availability of

locally produced

fabrics, with an

added USP viz. BCI

Addition of large

brands as buyers

Better export sales

and margin

realization

Growth in cotton

production

More value

addition of fibre

Increase in foreign

exchange earnings

Employment

creation

Farmers Country Level Apparel Producers Textile Producers

Page | 40

3.2.1 Manufacturing Level Activities

Awareness workshop with Ginners:

ACTIF along with CODA (supported by Solidaridad) and Local Consultant will hold a workshop with ginners

in order to make them aware about the BCI in general and the initiative for Kenya. The objective will be

to disseminate information and obtain their support for success of this project. ACTIF will also involve

other relevant government agencies at this stage to facilitate the future coordination work.

If required, ACTIF will also support ginners to visit the project farm site and provide any additional

information/support later on also to gain their support.

Coordination with Government bodies:

Active involvement of Government bodies is extremely important not only for success of this particular

project but also to make them see the benefit of BCI cotton value chain from the very beginning so that it

may be replicated in other areas within the country with their support. Involvement of Government at

highest level will ensure easy execution at local agency level for all agreements and support. ACTIF

together with CODA will leverage their connection with Kenyan Government to enable this.

ACTIF along with local consultant will actively engage with relevant stakeholders in various government

bodies by means of personal discussions, explaining the long term benefits at country level, involving them

in all workshops, showcasing the progress on regular basis, acting as point of contact for all strategic

discussions, etc.

Preparation of study report:

ACTIF through local consultant will prepare a comprehensive report about the project through primary

and secondary research work. The objective of this report will be to act as a handbook for manufacturers

(yarn, fabric and garments) to join this project. The entire process of this project will be documented so

that manufacturers understand and see value in partnering for the project.

Awareness creation workshop with Yarn and Fabric manufacturers:

ACTIF along with local consultant will hold workshop(s) with yarn manufacturers, weavers, knitters and

fabric processors in Nairobi or a suitable location in order to make them aware about the BCI in general

and the initiative for Kenya. The objective will be to disseminate information and obtain their support for

success of this project.

It will be a two day workshop with presentations by ACTIF, Solidaridad, Government agencies and local

consultant followed by Open house discussion with manufacturers to understand their apprehensions, if

any and provide clarification and finally enrol them as partners.

By the end of the workshop, ACTIF expects to gain widespread awareness and in-principle support for the

initiative. This will be quantified through a feedback-cum-support form which will be circulated at the end

of event. ACTIF will follow-up with interested parties based on this for their active involvement & support.

Page | 41

Awareness creation workshop with Garment manufacturers:

ACTIF along with local consultant and Value Added in Africa (VAA) will hold workshop(s) with garment

manufacturers in Nairobi or a suitable location in order to make them aware about the BCI in general and

the initiative for Kenya. The objective will be to disseminate information and obtain their support for

success of this project.

It will be a two day workshop with presentations by ACTIF, CODA, Government agencies and local

consultant followed by Open house discussion with manufacturers to understand their apprehensions, if

any and provide clarification and finally enrol them as partners.

By the end of the workshop, ACTIF expects to gain widespread awareness and in-principle support for the

initiative. This will be quantified through a feedback-cum-support form which will be circulated at the end

of event. ACTIF will follow-up with interested parties based on this for their active involvement and

support.

Follow-up with manufacturers to enrol them as partners:

Based on the outcome of workshops conducted with yarn, fabric and garment manufacturers; ACTIF will

start coordinating with the identified manufacturers to ensure they comply with the requirements and

enrol them as partners. If required, ACTIF will also support them to visit actual project sites and provide

additional information/support to gain their support.

ACTIF along with local consultant will actively engage with manufacturers by means of personal

discussions, explaining the long term benefits for them, showcasing the progress on regular basis, acting

as point of contact for all strategic discussions, etc.

Factory visits followed by training workshop with shortlisted manufacturers:

Once the suitable manufacturers are identified and enrolled as partners, ACTIF will arrange a visit to their

manufacturing facilities along with technical and marketing experts (from local consultant and VAA).

Website creation:

ACTIF along with local consultant will prepare a website about the entire project and update the same on

regular basis. It will act as a comprehensive tool for collaboration between various stakeholders: farmers,

ginners, manufacturers, buyers and government bodies.

Page | 42

3.2.2 Market Level Activities

Market level activities will be implemented by Value Added in Africa (VAA) in collaboration with ACTIF and

local consultant and will cover following points:

Mapping Marketing Capacity and Needs of Garment Companies

o Articulate market proposition of East African BCI garments

Market Preparation

o In-house bespoke marketing training in 3 garment factories on market information, pricing,

market trends and competitor analysis

o Marketing Strategies: Consultancy to 3 companies

o Re-Branding Activities (promotional literature, websites, etc.) for 3x companies

Market Entry and Export Development

o London based consultant for engagement of buyers: Build relationships, meet, send samples,

consistent communications, network

o East African garment companies attend EU garment buyer event

o Facilitate buyer visits to East African factories

Market Promotion of BCI products

o 3x launches in market destination countries, including media campaign

3.3 Project Partners

The organizations working on this project are African Cotton and Textile Industries Federation (ACTIF),

Cotton Development Authority (CODA), Value Added in Africa (VAA) and Wazir Advisors (the Local

Consultant). Roles and responsibilities of individual agencies are tabulated below:

Table 11: Key Partners and their Roles

Organization Role Responsibility

African Cotton and

Textile Industries

Federation

Lead Entity To act as point of contact for funding partners for all kind of updates

and inputs.

To ensure successful implementation of project.

Cotton

Development

Authority

Project

Partner

To conduct workshops and discussions wherever there is a need for

dissemination of information about BCI in general or about the

project that they are conducting in Kenya.

To provide feedback and support on regular basis for progress

monitoring at the farm level which will subsequently be informed to

downstream value chain players and other stakeholders.

To create and maintain website for project duration.

Page | 43

Organization Role Responsibility

Value Added in

Africa

Project

Partner

To develop linkages with buyers in Europe for the final BCI Products.

To provide training to the 3 selected companies in preparing

themselves for international marketing (26 days consultancy).

To give active representation to those selected companies in the UK

and other EU countries (100 days consultancy).

Wazir Advisors Project

Partner

To prepare study report for value addition partners

To conduct two industry workshops to create awareness about BCI

Cotton

To provide technical assistance at factory level

To establish a convincing proposition for the Textile & Apparel

Companies to enroll under BCI

To build awareness on social and environmental requirements for

exporting to Europe

To develop standards on quality assurance as per buyers

requirements

3.4 Project Management and Implementation

The project management and implementation model will be as follows:

Figure 19: Project Implementation Model

Page | 44

3.5 Expected Benefits

BCI Cotton production has following benefits:

Saving of water, reduction in use of fertilizers & pesticides, and improvement in farm yields results

in increment in profitability by 10% over the project timeframe. This will lead to an additional

earning of US$ 88 / acre as shown in the below illustrated calculation:

Table 12: Effect of Project Implementation on Farmer’s Earning

Indicators Current Scenario After Intervention

Average land holding per farmer Acre 2.2 2.2

Seed cotton yield (Kerio Valley) kg / acre 300 550

Input cost US$ / kg 0.32 0.32

Seed cotton price US$ / kg 0.48 0.48

Farmer earning US$ / kg 0.16 0.16

Extra earning (due to yield increase) US$ / acre 0 88

Creation of awareness among manufacturers about BCI cotton and also their acceptance to

manufacture such products.

Creation of additional value for poor across the board. On an estimate, 1 ton of seed cotton

production creates about 30 additional jobs in subsequent value chain steps. Thus this project will

hence lead to following job creation year-wise:

Table 13: Job Projections for 3 years after Project Implementation

Sector Y1 Y2 Y3

Farming 363 727 1,136

Manufacturing Jobs:

Ginning 182 364 568

Yarn Manufacturing 3,403 6,816 10,650

Fabric Weaving 1,556 3,116 4,869

Processing 1,035 2,072 3,238

Garmenting 4,071 8,154 12,741

Miscellaneous 726 1,454 2,272

Total Manufacturing Jobs 10,973 21,976 34,338

Increase the trade value and volume of BCI products (apparel and home textiles) by creating

demand by various global buyers.

Page | 45

3.6 Way Ahead

ACTIF would like to invite all ginners and value addition members of the Kenyan textile manufacturing

value chain to associate in this project and reap long term benefits.

As a first step, ACTIF will get in touch with you and invite you to the project workshop being organized in

Nairobi. The workshop will be an opportunity for you to understand the project and process in details as

speakers from ACTIF, BCI, Government and international consultants will explain all the relevant facts.

You will also get an opportunity to interact and seek clarifications about the project.

Beyond explaining our vision, we would also understand your expectations. At the conference, we will

have separate discussions with you to seek your interest for partnership. Upon getting our intent, we will

visit your manufacturing plant along with international consultants. This will be an exploratory visit,

wherein we will learn about your competence and capabilities.

In the next phase, our international marketing consultant will work closely over next few months to get

you ready for exports to targeted buyers. He will explain the buyers’ requirements and latent needs for

you to cater.

We are also planning to host Buyer Seller meets and Buyer visits to Kenya during the project period which

will end on 31st December 2015. In these events, our partner firms will have the advantage of participating

and having direct buyer interaction.

There is no fee for being our partner. We would need much more than that – your commitment. Your

time and effort commitment will be required not only to get more business, but also to help Kenya

generate more employment, help Kenyan farmer improve his earning and create global awareness about

sustainability.

Page | 46

Annexure

Page | 47

Funding Partners

S. No. Organization Joined in About

1 ICCO 2010 ICCO (or the ‘Interchurch Organization for Development

Cooperation,’) is a Dutch cooperative with an international

structure, with its global offices based in Utrecht, The

Netherlands. Working in 44 countries in Africa, Asia and Latin

America, ICCO is an organization who work towards a world in

which people can live in dignity and well-being, a world

without poverty and injustice. ICCO became a BCI Funding

Partner in 2010.

2 IDH, The

Sustainable

Trade Initiative

2009 IDH (The Sustainable Trade Initiative) accelerates and up-scales

sustainable trade. In the course of 2009, a group of private and

public players, including IDH, developed a strategy to speed up

the implementation of the Better Cotton System, now known

as the Better Cotton Fast Track Program. This is a demand

driven strategy, based on the commitment of frontrunner

brands and retailers to invest both in farmer support programs

and in the procurement of mainstream volumes of Better

Cotton.

3 Rabobank

Foundation

2010 Rabobank is a Dutch multinational banking and financial

services company headquartered in Utrecht, and is one of the

world’s largest financial institutions.

4 SECO 2009 SECO are the State Secretariat for Economic Affairs in

Switzerland. The SECO is the Swiss Confederation’s

competence centre for all core issues relating to economic

policy. The aim of SECO is to promote sustainable economic

growth in Switzerland. Their key tasks are to preserve and

expand Switzerland’s economic competitiveness. Their efforts

are based on strengthening Switzerland as an economic

location and on developing and consolidating the economic

policy relationships with the EU and other non-European

countries.

5 Sida 2009 SIDA (The Swedish International Development Cooperation

Agency) is a government agency working on behalf of the

Swedish parliament and government, with the mission to

reduce poverty in the world. Through their work and in

cooperation with others, they contribute to implementing

Sweden’s Policy for Global Development (PGU).

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S. No. Organization Joined in About

6 Solidaridad 2010 Solidaridad is an international civil society organization with

more than 45 years of global experience in facilitating the

development of socially responsible, ecologically sound, and

profitable supply chains. It trains farmers in new farming

techniques, helps to set up cooperation, and supports

production that meets the social and environmental criteria of

certification programs.

7 WWF 2005 WWF is a founding member of the Better Cotton Initiative and

work with BCI as Funding Partners and as Implementing

Partners on projects in India and Pakistan.

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Implementing Partners

S. No. Organization Joined in About

1 ABRAPA 2010 The Brazilian Cotton Growers Association, known by the

Portuguese acronym ABRAPA (Associação Brasileira dos

Produtores de Algodão), was created in 1999. ABRAPA’s aim is

to assure and increase the profitability of the cotton sector and

to seek strategic sustainability by acting politically, socially and

economically together with the public and private sectors.

Thus, ABRAPA intends to make the Brazilian cotton sector

increasingly competitive and recognized for its quality on both

the national and international levels. ABRAPA represents 99%

of cotton farmland, 99% of cotton production, and 100% of

cotton exports in Brazil.

2 Ambuja

Cement

Foundation

2011 With a competent team of professionals at all its 21 locations

across India, the Ambuja Cement Foundation (ACF) works in

partnership with rural communities, local NGOs and

governmental and international organizations, to ‘Energise,

involve and enable communities to realize their potential’. ACF

undertakes projects and schemes for promoting the social and

economic development for communities in and around the

manufacturing locations of Ambuja Cement Ltd. These

development initiatives are in line with the needs of people, in

partnership with them and in close collaborations with like-

minded NGOs and the Government. ACF focuses projects on

agro based and skill based livelihoods, water resource

management, women’s empowerment, health, education,

infrastructure and disaster relief.

3 Addchance

Holdings Ltd.

2012 Addchance Holdings Ltd. was established in 1977 and listed on

the Hong Kong Stock Exchange in 2005. Addchance is a highly

vertically integrated business capable of providing one-stop

services from spinning, dyeing, sock and sweater

manufacturing proven experience and strong international

accreditation. The group also engaged in BCI Cotton farming in

Xinjiang to support sustainable cotton last year. At present

Addchance is able to offer wide range and high quality Better

Cotton and cotton blend yarn with prompt delivery and

competitive price.

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S. No. Organization Joined in About

4 AFPRO 2010 Action for Food Production (AFPRO) is an Indian socio-technical

non-governmental organization with Christian inspiration

working for the development of the rural poor through

effective natural resource management solutions. They provide

technical guidance and backup support to grassroots level

NGOs for the implementation of environmentally friendly

projects for water, food security, livelihoods and allied capacity

building. AFPRO reaches out to the country through nine field

units located strategically all over India. It has a team of

hydrologists, geologists, geophysicists, civil engineers,

sociologists and specialists in agriculture, fisheries, forestry and

livestock.

5 AProCA 2010 The Association of African Cotton Producers (AProCa) is BCI’s

Implementing Partner in Mali, and was created in December

2004. Twelve West and Central African countries (Burkina Faso,

Benin, Cameroon, Cote d’Ivoire, Gambia, Ghana, Guinea,

Guinea Bissau, Mali, Senegal, Chad and Togo) met to analyze

the African cotton sector and to define together mobilization,

positioning and actions’ strategies to enable them to defend

their interests.

6 Arvind 2010 For over eight decades Arvind Ltd. has carved a niche for itself

in the world of textiles and fashion. Arvind today, is committed

towards supporting and developing models that bring

sustainability to the production of raw cotton. Arvind, is a BCI

cotton grower and one of the Implementing Partner (IP) in

India, working with over 6,600 farmers.

7 ASA 2011 Action for Social Advancement (ASA) is a nonprofit

development organization founded in 1995. It has emerged as

a prime and lead organization in the sector of farm based

livelihood for poor and natural resource management. It is

involved in promotion of Better Cotton cultivation practices

with more than 13,000 farmers in western tribal dominated

areas of three districts of Madhya Pradesh, India.

8 CABI 2012 CABI is an inter-governmental, not-for-profit organization

working to improve people’s lives worldwide by providing

information and applying scientific expertise to solve problems

in agriculture and the environment. CABI’s mission is

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S. No. Organization Joined in About

influenced by BCI’s 48 member countries. At any one time CABI

is working in more than 70 countries.

9 Cotton

Australia Ltd.

2013 Cotton Australia is the peak body for Australia’s cotton growing

industry, supporting over 1,500 cotton farming families in NSW

and Queensland. It will continue to manage the industry’s

relationship with BCI and will assist growers to become myBMP

certified so they can participate in the program.

10 CODA 2014 The Cotton Development Authority (CODA) is a regulatory state

corporation under the Ministry of Agriculture established

under section 4 of the Cotton (Amendment) Act, 2006. The role

of the Authority is to promote, coordinate, monitor, regulate

and direct the cotton industry in Kenya. It promotes cotton

production system that is sustainable through adoption of

better cotton production principles that emphasize on

integrated crop management, efficient water use, soil

management and decent work conditions.

11 CottonConnect 2010 CottonConnect is BCI’s implementing partner in India. It is a

pioneering company with a social purpose, delivering business

benefits to retailers and brands by creating more sustainable

cotton supply chains. It work across the whole supply chain

from farm to finished garment, creating transparent supply

chains that reduce risk and increase security of supply.

CottonConnect work with retailers and brands in CSR, sourcing,

buying and marketing to help build sustainability into cotton

value chains.

12 NFoC 2014 National Federation of Cotton Producers is an Implementing

Partner of BCI in Senegal. It works under the supervision of

BCI’s regional strategic partner, the Association of African

Cotton Producers (AProCA) to provide training to farmers in

Senegal.

13 Guoxin 2011 Guoxin BCI Program has built actively the project training team

with leading trainers of planting experts, crop protection

experts, and decent work experts; the implementing program

involves both large farms and small scale planting units. From

2012 to 2014, Guoxin BCI Program has trained cotton growers

with cotton planting acreage of 11,245 hectares, which

produced BCI certified lint of 10,000 tons. Around 20,000

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S. No. Organization Joined in About

cotton growers have been trained in the program, including

18,600 women growers.

14 Mahima Fibres

Pvt. Ltd.

2013 Mahima group is very strong in the Madhya Pradesh (India)

region as cotton ginner and spinner since last 4 decades. The

group is already running its organic operations since 1998 and

is in the supply chain of major international brands. Since, the

promoters are already in close interaction with farmers,

becoming an implementation partner with BCI has given them

another chance of involving with farmers.

15 Olam

International

2011 Olam International is a leading global integrated supply chain

manager and processor of agricultural products and food

ingredients, supplying various products across 16 platforms in

65 countries. The company started as a cotton trader in Africa,

but over the years spread across the globe and added different

business models in the cotton value chain.

16 PRDIS 2012 Participatory Rural Development Initiatives Society (PRDIS) is a

registered and reputed professional National Level

Development Organization (NGO) established during the year

1999 operating from Hyderabad (India). It has been working on

the areas of Sustainable Agriculture, Agri-business, rural

development and Natural Resource Management. It has about

75 experienced, expert professionals and field staff.

17 RVP Cotton 2014 Salawa Cotton Ginnery is a private, self-funded company

branch of Rift Valley Products Ltd. (RVP), established on 4th

October 2007. The RVP Cotton Division is involved in cotton

ginning and raw cotton trading across East & Southern Africa

and is a member of the Liverpool Cotton Association.

18 SANAM 2014 SANAM is part of the GEIN Group of companies which was

established by the visionary Mr. Issufo Nurmamade more than

40 years ago. The company started as a producer of Cotton and

Cashew, and following the independence of Mozambique, Mr.

Issufo Nurmamade began trading these commodities and

pioneered a co-operative which farmed cotton.

19 Lok Sanjh

Foundation

2013 Lok Sanjh is a non-profit, non-governmental organization

working with the rural communities particularly with women

farmers in Pakistan. The organization started its work in 1996

and at present it is working in more than 130 villages. The Lok

Sanjh promotes strategies for socially and environmentally

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S. No. Organization Joined in About

sound agriculture through focused research, policy advice and

advocacy. It is the Implementing Partner of Better Cotton

Initiative in Pakistan and is working with 12,500 farmers.

20 Sarob 2013 Cooperative Sarob is organization of agronomist – consultant

who is providing agriculture consultation to the farmers. Its

goal is comprehensive development of agriculture through:

improving the specific knowledge and experience; improving

access to the agriculture inputs; and improving access to the

agriculture market for the selling and buying agriculture

products.

21 Shandong

Huitong Textile

Co. Ltd.

2012 Shandong Huitong Textile Co. Ltd. is a denim fabric

manufacturer which produces pure cotton, tencel, stretch,

ramie cotton, slub denim fabrics etc., integrating from

spinning, sizing-dyeing, weaving until finishing. The company

founded in April, 2003, is located in the famous hometown of

Donkey-hide gelatin—Dong’e Industrial Zone, Shandong

province, covering 278 units of area and fixed assets worth US$

50 million. In total there are over 1,200 employees in the

company including 120 persons accepting college education

and 45 persons gaining Senior-Middle Technical certification.

The annual output of fabrics reaches 13 million meters and

sales income of US$ 80 million. It’s an export-oriented

enterprise.

22 JFS Group 2012 JFS (Cotton Company) is the oldest cotton company in

Mozambique, with 1 ginnery in Cuamba, employing around 60

permanent staff. JFS has a long history of working with

smallholder cotton growers. It has a cotton concession in 9

districts in Niassa province. In this area JFS provides training

and inputs to all smallholders interested in joining the crop.

23 SODEFITEX 2014 SODEFITEX is a privatized company founded in 1974 whose

mission is the development of the cotton agro-industry in

Senegal, particularly in the areas of Eastern Senegal and Haute

Casamance which are favourable for cotton cultivation.

24 Solidaridad 2010 Solidaridad is an international civil society organization with

more than 45 years of global experience in facilitating the

development of socially responsible, ecologically sound, and

profitable supply chains. It trains farmers in new farming

techniques, helps to set up cooperation, and supports

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S. No. Organization Joined in About

production that meets the social and environmental criteria of

certification programs.

25 Spectrum

International

Pvt. Ltd.

2013 Spectrum International Pvt. Ltd. is a pioneer in the Indian

sustainable textile industry that has over the last 17 years been

involved in the farming, ginning and spinning of sustainable

textiles such as Organic and BCI Cotton.

26 Super Spinning

Mills Ltd.

2011 Super Spinning Mills Ltd. was established in 1962 with an initial

capacity of 12,000 spindles. Over its four decades of growth, it

has expanded to 166,526 spindles spread over 4 operational

units with production capacity of 62,000 kg/day. It has the

count range of Ne 20s to Ne 120s. It performs all the value

addition to the yarn in the form of gassed, mercerized,

single/double and bleached. It also have Open end with the

range from Ne 6s to Ne 10s. It produce yarns from Giza, Pima,

Better Cotton and Organic cotton.

27 Pratibha

Syntex

2013 Pratibha Syntex is one of India’s largest vertically integrated

knitted textiles suppliers, using Organic Cotton, Better Cotton

and recycled fibres. Pratibha partners with over 28,000 farmers

across 130 acres of Organic, Fair Trade and BCI Cotton.

28 Trident 2011 Trident is part of the Trident Group – one of the largest yarn

producers in India. It is one of the world’s largest agro-based

paper manufacturers and one of the largest terry toweling

manufacturers in India. Based in Punjab and established in

1990, the group has diversified and expanded manifold, giving

way to businesses based on sustainable growth. Under the

dynamic leadership of Mr. Rajinder Gupta, the Chairman of the

group, Trident continues to grow embracing new challenges,

expanding boundaries and creating new opportunities. Trident

became a BCI Implementing Partner in March 2011.

29 WWF 2005 WWF is a founding member of the Better Cotton Initiative and

work with BCI as Funding Partners and as Implementing

Partners on projects in India and Pakistan.

Page | 55

Strategic Partners

S. No. Organization Joined in About

1 CmiA 2014 Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) is an initiative developed by the

Aid by Trade Foundation, and works on the principles of a

social business. That means the initiative operates in

accordance with sound business methods, except that it does

not aim to maximize the profits of individuals, but rather to

improve the conditions of life of a large number of African

cotton farmers.

2 IAM 2013 The Cotton Institute of Mozambique (IAM) is the BCI Strategic

Partner in Mozambique has its headquarters in Maputo. IAM

was created with the aim to encourage, guide, discipline and

supervise activities related to the production, marketing,

processing and export of cotton in Mozambique.

3 IPUD 2014 IPUD aims to improve cotton production in Turkey for the

benefit of cotton producers and the environment where cotton

is grown and for the future of the sector. In order to improve

income levels and to contribute to economic development in

cotton-producing regions while also reducing the negative

environmental impact of cotton production, IPUD cooperates

with various stakeholders to encourage measurable and

sustainable improvements to cotton farming practices.