Xxyyzzazsa66Your First Orchid If this is your first experience growing an orchid, don't be afraid of them, most are no more difficult to grow than ordinary houseplants. Orchids are unique, unusual, gorgeous, and very special. Since most orchids are epiphytes, or air plants, their culture requirements are different than other plants but once you get used to what they need we expect you will be delighted growing them. Here are a few basic pointers for those just learning about orchids and their care.1. Learn what kind of orchid you have so you can understand its needs. With over 800 genera, more than 25,000 species, and hundreds of thousands of registered hybrids, the orchid family is among the most diverse of the plant families. Don't let that be intimidating, there are only a dozen or so types of orchids that are generally seen for sale, a few more types if you go to an orchid show or nursery. Over half of the orchid plants that are produced are Phalaenopsis. Other genera such as Cattleya, Dendrobium, Cymbidium, Oncidium and Paphiopedilum are showing up in many places, including groceries and hardware stores. If your orchid doesn't have a label, you can try to identify it from pictures on our Orchid Identification page and from there learn its culture and repotting needs.2. Watering an orchid is different than it is for other plants. The easiest way to water an orchid is to take it to the kitchen sink once per week and flood it with water. The water will run right through the pot as orchids are potted in free-draining mixes. Walk away for a couple of minutes, come back and flood it again. A few minutes later put it back. Resist the temptation to water it too frequently, orchids hate that. Generally speaking, once every 7 - 10 days should be fine. If an orchid is in a planter with no drainage hole it will need to be moved to one as soon as possible.3. Fertilize "weakly, weekly". In nature most orchids cling to trees and get very little in the way of food. They are happiest with a consistent supply of weak fertilizer. In general orchids prefer a balanced complete fertilizer. Our Fertilizing FAQ offers help with specifics. 4. Repot orchids when they go out of bloom in fresh orchid mix. This gives them the best chance at a successful growth phase and the flowering phase that follows. Orchids will smother if they remain in the same media too long, they are air plants and need oxygen at their roots. The freshness and quality of the orchid mix is an essential component to successful growth and flowering. Usually repotting every 2 years is adequate though many will benefit from annual repotting.**Richards says a good orchid, raised in the right conditions (room temperature, not less than 16.5C) should last eight weeks with flowers, after which the blooms will slowly start dropping off (perfectly naturally) from the bottom up. It will eventually re-flower.**Like most pretty things, they are a little high-maintenance and a bit picky: they like light, but only north-facing; they hate draughts; and they only like soft water. Never, ever cut the aerial roots off (the slightly greying roots curling around the top - apparently some people don't like the look of them), and never, ever remove them from the original plastic pots they've been rooted in.**If you live in a hard water area, use cooled boiled water from the kettle," says Richards. "Either water them once a week with an eggcup-sized amount of soft water, or stand your orchid in a bucket and drench completely with soft water to replicate a tropical rain shower - let it soak for a minute in enough water to cover the compost. But don't let any water sit in the area where the leaves cross over [if it does, dab away with tissue]."**While the flowers are in bloom, keep the stems pinned to the sticks they are supplied with for support.Every node (the little triangular etch) on the stem is a potential new bloom. Once all the flowers fall off, trim the stem all the way down, just above the very lowest node, and cut diagonally. "This will help to stimulate new growth, hopefully a new flower stem," says Richards.It's ideal to put cut-down orchids in a conservatory or greenhouse to encourage reflowering; failing that, a north-facing windowsill will do. Keep watering weekly, and you should see a new stem coming through. And that, says Richards, is that.***Orchid Growing TipsMost orchids require moist, well-draining conditions. There are several types of growing media that can be used with orchid plantsredwood or fir bark, sphagnum peat moss, rocks, cork, charcoal, sand, potting soil, etc. A basic mix for growing orchids consists of coarse perlite, fir bark, and sphagnum moss. You can also add charcoal but this is optional. Generally, the grade of bark is dependent on the type of orchid grown. For instance, phalaenopsis orchids are usually grown in coarse bark, cattleyas in medium bark, and young orchid plants are best grown in fine bark.Orchids require shallow planting. Place orchids in an east to south-facing window or room. These plants prefer bright, indirect light. Insufficient light results in poor flowering. However, too much light can lead to leaf scorch.Temperature is also important for indoor orchid care. While orchids tolerate cooler or warmer temperatures throughout their normal growing season, they need to be about 15 degrees cooler at night than during the day in order to bloom sufficiently.Indoor Orchid Care TipsOrchids need ample water but should be allowed to dry out some between waterings. One way to check for watering is by poking your finger about an inch into the growing media. If its dry, give it some water; otherwise, let it be.Indoor orchid plants also need adequate humidity, about fifty to seventy percent. There are various ways to increase the humidity in your home. Place a water-filled saucer or tray of pebbles beneath plants, mist plants daily, or use a humidifier.Fertilize orchids weekly or bi-weekly while they are producing new growth and decrease to monthly or bi-monthly intervals once they mature. Discontinue altogether once the plants go dormant. Additional orchid care tips include repotting, which is normally done every other year. If your orchids suddenly stop blooming but have suitable light, temperature, and humidity, then repotting may be necessary.Also keep an eye out for signs of pests or disease. Orchids are occasionally affected by mealybugs, scale, and aphids. These can usually be washed off or treated with insecticidal soap.Phalaenopsis Orchid Care: Tips For Growing Phalaenopsis Orchids

Image by Ryan Somma By Becca Badgett(Co-author of How to Grow an EMERGENCY Garden)Growing phalaenopsis orchids was once an elite and costly hobby for those dedicated to phalaenopsis orchid care. Nowadays, advances in production, largely due to cloning with tissue culture, makes it affordable for the average gardener to learn how to care for a phalaenopsis orchid. Impress your friends by growing these showy, long lasting blossoms.What are Phalaenopsis Orchids?Commonly known as moth orchid, info about phalaenopsis says theyre epiphytes, growing attached to tree branches in their native, tropical conditions. The broad-leafed plant produces long lasting blooms that are flat and showy, borne on arching stems. It should be noted when answering what are phalaenopsis orchids, that blooms may last two to three months. Theyre one of the easiest orchids to grow.Moth orchid size is measured by the span of the leaves. The wider the leaf span, the more blooms you can expect from this orchid. Numerous hybrids and cultivars bloom at different times of the year.Advertisement Moth Orchid Info and CareMoth orchid info indicates this plant is best grown in diffused or low light situations, and in standard household temperatures to provide the right phalaenopsis orchid care. Temperatures around 65 to 75 F. (18-24 C.) during the day and 10 degrees lower at night are appropriate for this plant. Broad spectrum fluorescent lights can b e used for successfully growing phalaenopsis orchids.Learning how to care for a phalaenopsis orchid starts with potting your new plant in the right medium. Never plant growing phalaenopsis orchids in regular potting soil, as roots will suffocate and rot away. Grow them in a coarse textured mixture, such as a commercial mix for epiphytic orchids. You can make your own soilless mix for growing phalaenopsis orchids from coarse fir bark, hardwood charcoal, perlite and coarse peat moss.Potting mixture for growing phalaenopsis orchids should remain moist, drying slightly between waterings, but never drying out completely. Some moth orchid info recommends watering with three ice cubes per week to avoid overwatering. As the mix ages, nutrient-holding and drainage capabilities decrease. Repot your orchid every two to three years.High humidity is necessary for the optimum performance of growing phalaenopsis orchids. Moth orchid info advises humidity between 50 and 80 percent. Accomplish this with a room humidifier, pebble tray beneath the plant and misting.Fertilize the moth orchid when new growth is forming. Use a fertilizer formulated for orchids or a balanced houseplant food with the ratio 20-20-20 on the label.How to Care for Phalenopsis Orchids (Moth Orchids)The most common orchid acquired by people is the Phalaenopsis orchid. Unfortunately, these are often discarded after the flowers fall off. With proper care, your orchid can flower multiple times a year!1. 2. Identify that you have a Phalaenopsis orchid (Phals for short). Different types of orchids have very different care. . Phals usually have 3-6 very broad, somewhat floppy leaves that alternate. The flower spike comes from between these leaves.. The flowers on phals can be any color, including white, pink, yellow, striped or splotched. Flowers are usually 24 inches (5.110.2cm) in diameter and bloom on a spike that may be 1218 inches (30.545.7cm) in length.. There may be more than one spike on a large plant and it may have anywhere from 3-20 flowers. If you aren't sure you have a phal, check the internet for images. 2Do not over water your phal! This is the number one cause of death and you may not even know you are doing it until one day the plant is dead. . Phals are epiphytic plants, meaning in the wild they attach themselves by their roots to a tree or rock and get their nutrients from detritus that accumulate around their roots.. This means that their roots aren't sitting in wet soil under natural conditions. Frequently, orchids from big box stores are either over watered or under watered. Over watered plants get root rot and eventually die b/c they can't absorb water.. Under watered plants have hard, brittle roots. Healthy roots should be thick, a silvery green with bright green tips.. It's a good idea to check the roots on a new phal when you bring it home. If all the roots are brown and squishy, trim them off and repot the plant.. Keep it on the dry side until you see new roots forming.. When you do water(typically once a week works well in most homes, but you should put your finger into the substrate to feel it before watering, if wet, hold off), allow water to run until it comes out of the holes in the pot.. Do not get water on or in between the leaves, as this can cause rot, which can kill the plant.. Generally, under watering is a lot less likely to kill a phal than over watering. 3Pot your orchid correctly. Proper potting of the orchid will help keep you from over watering! . During this time, you may want to keep the orchid in a more humid area, like a bathroom (as long as it gets some light).. Phals can be potted in a variety of substances, but the most important is that the potting substrate allows the roots to get some air and drys relatively quickly.. This means never, ever use potting soil for houseplants on phals. One of the easiest thing to use is a bark mix for orchids.. To re-pot your plant, get a plastic or clay pot (plastic holds water better and you water less with one than clay-if you have tendency to over water, go with clay).. Go with a pot size that fits the roots the best, not the leaves. Smaller is always better, as it dries faster.. Position your flower in the middle of the pot and fill in the pot with the bark mix. As you fill, you should bang the pot against the floor to help settle the bark.. It helps to soak the bark beforehand in water. Pots should always have holes in the bottom to allow good drainage.. You can put a plastic pot with holes into a more decorative container if you want to and then just take it out when you water it.. Orchids don't like to have wet feet! Not all roots may fit in the pot and that is normal . (Phals have aerial roots, you can mist them with a spray bottle when you water the plant). 4Do not put them in direct sunlight. Phals are a lower light orchid. They do not like to be in direct sun and this can burn their leaves easily. Diffused light or early morning light in an east window works well. Overhead lights in your house are probably not enough though, so you should keep it near a window where it gets some natural, diffused light. Not enough light will keep the plant from re-flowering. If it's been 6 months since you've seen signs of a flower spike, try putting the plant in a little more light. 5Keep your plant warm. Phals do not like to get too cold. Temps at night shouldn't get below about 62 degrees. Daytime temps in the mid 70's to 80's are good. < 6Don't forget to feed them. Phals need plant food at some point. Once a month diluted in water works well. You should use about half the recommended amount on the label and avoid food that use urea for the nitrogen, as it can burn the root tips. A 10/10/10 or 20/20/20 formula works well. There are several formulas especially for orchids, but they are all pretty much the same. 7If your first flower doesn't make it, try again! Starting with a healthy plant is easier than trying to revive one that wasn't cared for properly in the store. Look for a plant with big thick roots and nice shiny leaves that don't droop too much.

Leaf readingYou can tell a lot about the health of your phals by just looking at the leaves. The leaves should be firm and not drooping, shiny and not wrinkled. Drooping and wrinkled leaves means they are not getting enough water. When they do get too much, they turn yellow and roots will start to rot. Ideally the leaves should have a light green color, but a bit darker for darker colored flowers. A too dark green leaves means that they are not getting enough sunlight but a very light green leaves means too much. They can also have yellowish to red spot which means sun burn! Splitting of the leaves sometimes occur, it might look ugly but no need to worry, however this usually happens when the plant was deprived of water at some time and was suddenly given a lot.Going deeper.Check the roots from time to time. Silvery looking roots could mean its time to water. But it also means they are in a healthy state, when wet they should be green. Brown and soggy roots are rotting roots. You should trim these away. When a lot of roots start to come out from the pot, then it says `repot me.

emerging new root

emerging new leafTips for new phalaenopsis owners: Water your phals in the morning. Avoid getting water in the crown or if you did, remove it by using cotton or cotton buds. Watering frequency varies, it is best to ask your phals directly. Stick a finger 3-4 cm inside a pot, if its dry then water. If it is still moist to your touch, the do not water yet. The best way to water your Phals is to let the water run through the roots and drain excess water. If you are using a pebble tray, then no need to bring them to the sink. Just water normally making sure that all roots gets wet and just let the excess water go to the pebble tray. Try to move your plants around the house for different seasons. Place them on windowsills during winter to get enough sunlight but not on summer if your windowsill is directly facing the sun. Orchids like it humid and temperature is also important. A humidity of 50% 70% is ideal and a temperature of 70-80F (21-26C) during daytime and 60-65F (15-18C) at night will make your phals bloom longer. They can be exposed to a temperature as high as 95F (35C) or as low as 30F (0C) but only for short periods. For me to achieve ideal humidity level. I followed the tip of using pebble trays. Just use a saucer, fill it with pebbles, fill it with water and place the pot on top making sure that the base of the pot does not sit on water.

Humidity Trays for my Phals

Ventilation is also a factor to consider, give them a breather from time to time like opening a window for some minutes or so. If you are a newbie I suggest using a transparent plastic pot (they usually sell them in these anyway) to easily observe the health of the roots and the plastic pot keeps the moisture much longer, so lesser watering. Also, when buying Phals chooseahealthy one following the clues I mentioned above. You do not want to start with a difficult challenge for a beginner. Lets leave that to the experts.

HOW TO: CARE FOR YOUR SUCCULENTS28th February 2013Although people often say that you dont have to do anything to keep succulents alive and theyre perfect for people with a less than green thumb, Ive learnt through trial and error that thats not quite true.Over the last couple of years Ive had dozens of succulent and cactus plants in our apartment (remember these cute little guys?) but have never been able to make them flourish. I recently decided to invest in a fresh batch and while I was at it I quizzed the nursery owner (a loud talking Mr Ho) and found out that complete neglect of your cacti and succulents is just as likely to kill them as too much love. I thought I would share a few of the tidbits I learnt but bear with me Mr Ho doesnt speak a stitch of English so I had a friend translate.Pin It Light Although you would think that because succulents and cacti mainly originate in the desert they would be down with full high-beaming sun, I was told that for many species full midday sun can actually burn your plant. For many species brightly lit areas with lots of sunlight are perfect but not somewhere with full midday sun. Water This is the bit I was most surprised about. During the warmer part of the year most succulents and cacti go through a growing phase where they are most active and need water and nutrients. When it cools down during the year they go into a dormant phase and need much less water (this is the point where you can neglect your plants a little). During the warmer months in their growing phase succulents should be watered once a week but rather than pour a cup of water now and then into the pot , wait until the dirt is completely dry and then soak the plant in water for a few minutes. Soil Succulents are usually found in gritty or sandy soils, and you should make sure this is what you use in the event that you replant them. Pot As with all plants, make sure the pot you use for your plant has a drainage hole in the bottom. This is where I think I went wrong in the past planting cacti in tea cups unfortunately doesnt allow for the right drainage (= dead succulent). If you can, plant your succulent in a terracotta pot, as apparently this improves drainage. Re-potting Although an annoying process to go through, if youre a nice and caring succulent owner there will be a point at which you have to re-pot. My succulent guy says to do this every year or when the plant starts to look uncomfortable in the pot. Fingers crossed you get to that point! Pay attention Mr Ho said that although his tips apply generally to most succulents and cacti, they are all different and the only way to make sure you are doing the right thing is to pay attention to how they are growing apparently yellowing can mean too much sunlight (or overwatering) whilst leaning towards the light source can mean not enough.Thats all I managed to wrangle out of Mr Ho, feel free to let me know if you have any other tips I definitely need them! I was lucky enough to get to shoot a few pics of the plants I had to choose from at the markets it was a tough decision believe me.

How to Transplant Orchids By Joan Norton Design Pics/Allan Seiden/Design Pics/Getty Images It is time to transplant your orchid when the roots are growing over the side of the pot or the lower leaves have died and weakened the center stem. The plant has either become too big for the container or the potting medium has broken down and no longer supports the plant. Always wait for an orchid to finish blooming before transplanting.Other People Are Reading How to Care for Orchid Houseplants How to Care for Potted Orchids Indoors Transplanting Materials Gather together new potting medium, hand-held pruners and a pot one size bigger than its present container. The potting medium must be fast-draining and also water-retentive. Commercial orchid potting medium contains volcanic rock, coconut fiber, tree bark, charcoal or a combination of these. Aliflor is an expanding clay medium that is often used in orchid mixes. Bark-based potting medium drains well but breaks down easily. Peat-based material retains moisture well but must be replaced yearly. Choose either clay or plastic pots for your orchid. Ensure the hand-held pruners are sterilized with alcohol before using, to prevent the spread of harmful bacteria.Remove Orchid From Pot Grasp the orchid plant by the main stem and gently remove it from the overturned pot. A very root-bound plant will be difficult to shake loose, and sometimes the pot needs to be broken. Remove all of the old potting medium by shaking the plant and picking the medium out from between the roots. Do not reuse any of this material in the transplant process. Gently wash off the orchid roots with water to remove fine particles. Pull off dead or weak lower leaves and pull off plant tissue at the leaf juncture. Prune all shriveled roots carefully with hand-held pruners, being careful not to cut healthy growth. Dead tissue is hollow when squeezed or wiry looking.New Pot Choose a plastic or clay pot that will accommodate the entire root system comfortably. Cover the bottom of the pot with a thin layer of potting mix. Place the plant in the pot with the lower leaves slightly above the rim. Place and push potting material in the spaces between the roots, pressing gently as you go. Ensure the bottom leaves remain slightly above the pot rim. Tap the pot gently to settle the materials and add more if needed to fill the space. Experienced orchid gardeners add a label to each plant indicating its name and bloom time.Water and Ongoing Care An orchid needs to be soaked thoroughly after it has been transplanted to a new pot. Always use tepid water and soak long enough so all the planting material is wet. Allow the pot to drain completely and empty the drip pan so the roots do not continue to absorb water through the drainage hole. Orchids are watered once a week after the transplant. Fertilize monthly with 1/2-strength commercial orchid fertilizer during summer and fall. Do not fertilize during the spring flowering cycle.

Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_4507024_transplant-orchids.html

How to Trigger Reblooming of Your Phalaenopsis Orchid When your Just Add Ice Orchid stops blooming and enters dormancy, it is not dead. You can encourage your orchid to bloom again with just a little TLC. Phalaenopsis orchids rebloom on old spikes with a new stalk emerging from a triangular node along the stalk. To trigger the growth of a new stalk and reblooming, your Just Add Ice Orchid will need a little more attention than these easy-care orchids usually require. The thrill when your Just Add Ice Orchid blooms for a second time, however, makes the small investment in time and effort required to trigger orchid reblooming well worth the effort.Phalaenopsis orchids expend a lot of energy to create the large, beautiful flowers for which they are prized. Under normal circumstances, your Just Add Ice Orchid will enter a resting period called dormancy once it has finished blooming. Dormancy allows the plant time to rest and replace the nutrients expended during blooming. Nutrients and water are stored in the plants leaves until they are needed for growth and blooming. Dormancy typically lasts from 6 to 9 months and your orchid may rebloom on its own as orchids do in nature. However, most display orchids need a little help activating the natural rhythm that leads to blooming.To trigger orchid reblooming, follow these steps:1. When your orchid stops blooming, begin fertilizing it every other week with a balanced houseplant fertilizer (20-20-20) mixed at half strength. Do not water your Just Add Ice Orchid with 3 ice cubes on the weeks you fertilize your plant.2. Move your orchid to a cooler environment where nighttime temperatures are between 55 and 65 degree F. until a new flower spike emerges.3. Return your plant to its usual location and continue watering with 3 ice cubes once a week.How to Care for Orchids: Ice Cube Watering Specifics Posted by Just Add Ice Orchids We aim to make watering your beautiful Phalaenopsis orchid plant simple by helping you remember to Just Add Ice once a week. And we even recommend how much -- 3 ice cubes per week. But as with just about anything, it sounds simple until you get down to actually doing it, and then the questions come up. But once you get the hang of it, youll realize how easy it is.One thing you may find yourself wondering is what size should the ice cubes be? since there seems to be no standard size or shape anymore. It should melt down to about a cup of water. As long as thats the case, the size of the cube is only an issue if its crushed ice. The point of using ice cubes is that they melt slowly releasing the water in a slow drip. So you dont want to use anything that will melt quickly.Some people have very responsibly done research before watering their plant and are confused by recommendations theyve found elsewhere that say to use only water at room temperature. Here at Just Add Ice Orchids, we love orchids and have tested our theory before offering it to others. Weve found that those who follow our recommendation meet with orchid success!Another place where there has been some confusion is if three ice cubes are enough if there is more than one plant in a pot. If you see multiple stems coming from the same plant, three ice cubes is enough. But if you have more than one plant in a pot, youll want to give each plant its very own serving of three cubes each.Orchid Care BlogAfter Orchid Flowers Fall So you've been given an orchid plant and have enjoyed its long-lasting bloom, but now the last orchid flower has faded and you're wondering what to do with the rest of the plant. Right? Fortunately, they will bloom again. In the meantime, you have a few options:You can let it be, while making sure to fertilize monthly or as often as every other week with a houseplant fertilizer or balanced fertilizer (example: 20-20-20) at half the recommended rate. During this time,the plant may produce new buds at the end of the old flower spike. (If the orchid flower spike has turned yellow or brown, the entire spike should be removed.)You can cut the bare flower spike back to a "node", a triangular shaped area on the stem, which may encourage the orchid to generate new side flower spikes.You can remove the entire flower spike so that the orchid plant can put more energy back into the leaves and roots, helping it to grow stronger and produce a fresh new flower spike.You might also want to promote orchid reblooming by moving it to an area where the night time temperatures are slightly lower than their current environment - ideally between 55 to 65 degrees F, but with the same amount of in-direct sunlight exposure as before.You'll know an orchid flower spike has formed when what looks like a root starts to grow upwards and the tip takes on the appearance of a mitten, as opposed to a root tip that is rounded. Once the orchid flower spike is identified, the orchid can be returned to its normal setting.As the flower spike grows, support it with a stake along the way. To produce a beautiful display of orchid flowers try to avoid changing the plant's orientation to the light when it is producing its flowers. Otherwise, the flowers may be twisted on the stem and you may jeopardize a nice arching floral display.

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