sustained elegance (1) • most of the fabrics for garments are composed of various sources of...
TRANSCRIPT
Traditional Way of Recycling Kimono may give a hint how to close a loop of fashionable life.
SUSTAINED ELEGANCE
Gal (Sexy girl) Onei (Elegant sis)
Lolita (Pretty girl)
Individualistic Ageha(Butterfly)
2006
KERA, March 2011CanCam, April 2011
2017
Main culture, pop culture and sub-culture
Sub-Culture(Lower Class)
Pop Culture(Middle Class)
Main Culture(Upper Class)
Popularization
Resistance
Dress up
Dress downSophisticated
play
17A.D. 17A.D.
16A.D.
17A.D.
16A.D.
19 A.D.Design attributed to Okyo Maruyama
(1733-1795)
19 A.D.
Edo Period Momoyama Period
1850- 1750- -1750 1688-1703 1673-1687 1658-1672 -1600 1600-1500
Almost 100 % of the fabric is used.
At most, 80 % ofthe fabric is used.
Dress-up Shape a body
Wear Komono Wrap a body
Mid-19 century
End-19 century
高麗格子
斧琴菊三枡繋ぎ 三津五郎縞鎌輪ぬ
菊五郎格子 市村格子 亀蔵小紋
SUSTAINABILITY• Reduce
• Reuse
• Recycle
1.Reduce2.Reuse3.Recycle
Material RecycleChemical RecycleThermal Recycle
REUSE• The garments are composed of many parts made of various fibers, which are sewn together.
• By taking off sewn threads, each part of a garment is separated into respective pieces.
• Some pieces could be reused.
• Sewing thread which will be dissolved in hot water (over 130C) could be available.
RECYCLE• Most of the fabrics for garments are composed of various sources of fibers, but cotton and polyester share over 80 % of
fabric resources.
• A priority is thus given to recycle cotton and polyester.
• No fiber-to-fiber recycling process is available.
• A hydrothermal process is capable of separating cotton/PET blends and recovering PET fiber without deterioration.
• This new hydrothermal process is considered as the intermediate between reuse and material recycling. No further chemical process is needed for recovered PET.
FABRICS FOR MEN’S WEAR IN 2009
44.6
03.3
48.2
03.9
38.8
21.8
13.9
6.94
35.6
17.821.8
13.9
6.94
35.6
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
Cotton Wool Polyester Polyester/cotton Polyester/wool Others
%
Men's shirts Men's pants Men's jackets
HOW TO LOOP• Designers’ challenge for easy recycling by standardizing each element composing a garment.
• A new design could be made by a variety of combination of elements.
• Sewing could be made by hot-water (over 130C) soluble thread.
• Collected old clothes are separated to respective elements, some of which could be reused for a new design.
• The rest could be recycled by a hydrothermal process and recovered PET be processed into yarn.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR ATTENTION