Garments Defect

1. Fitting defect2. Sewing defect3. Finishing defect

Fitting defect:

Fitting defects are mainly considered as patter defect. If there is some problem in pattern that will definitely affect the fitting of the garment. Sleeve related defects Problem: - the sleeve pulls tightly across arm and across the sleeve head above back balance point.

Solution: - Take out the pattern cut it from center (crease) lengthwise spread it as much required and retrace it. The defect will be rectifying. Problem: - sleeve head too short. There is too little ease at sleeve head and diagonal lines pull from shoulder. Sleeve head too high. Too much ease in the sleeve head which sags

Solution or too short: - slash across sleeve head and insert the required amount. This will gives the ease required to sleeve. Solution for too high: - slash across sleeve head and overlap to reduce sleeve. Problem: - unbalance sleeve pitch. The sleeve can drag to the left or to the right.

Solution: - this often means the underarm seams move out of line. If so mark a balance point on sleeve to match to underarm Neckline defects

Bust and back defects

Sewing Defects: Improper formed stitch

Cause of improper formed stitch:-

Bad thread tension - no known sewing thread is completely inextensible under the action of a tensile force. Therefore, it is extended as a result of the set thread tension and passes into the seam in this extended form. When the tension is removed it tends to contract Incorrectly adjusted timing - The operator fails to handle or feed the sewing parts correctly during sewing. Operator either tends to feed too slow causing stretching, or too fast causing jamming of fabric parts under the needle point.Solutions Trial test should be carried out to pre-determine the suitable thread tension for different types of fabric, seams and construction. Regular checking of machine parts and thorough examination of the whole machine setting to avoid disturbance of the machine operation Twisted seams leading to irregular puckering or garment parts not hanging correctly when being worn.Improper alignment of fabric parts Operator discovered or never noticed about the improper alignment of the fabric parts during sewing, therefore, she tried to match the sides or the ends of the fabric parts by pulling, stretching or easing the materials with hands. The final products may have neat edges, but obvious twisting or puckering appeared when the parts or the garment are hanged.

Solution Pinning or putting weights on the pile of the cut parts to fix the position of each of the fabric piece in the pile, before making the notches. Reducing the height of the pile for repairs notching. Adequate training and education should be given to the sewing operators. In addition, inspection on the quality of the sewn parts cannot be ignored to avoid necessary of the whole garment at the end of the line.Loose Stitch/Unbalance Seam Thread loops are formed on one side of the seam. Unbalanced seams refers to the seams in which the interlock between the needle thread and the bobbin thread does take place in the middle of the seam, resulting poor seam strength and difference in appearance between the upper and lower side of the seam.CauseThe tension of sewing thread is not set properly.

Solution Adjust thread tension to get a balanced seam, i.e. The interlacing point is at middle of two layers of fabrics.Seam Puckering Puckering is the major and frequent defect in the garment, which can occur by small carelessness.

Causes Improper thread tension :- If the thread tension is unbalance than this will be the cause of puckering. Mishandling of material :- If both layer of the fabric will not be handled carefully and equal than this will also be the cause of puckering. High thread tension - Not enough thread is feed for the loop formation. Improper pressure :- If the pressure of the pressure foot is not as per the fabric than this can be also the cause of puckering.Solution Improper pressure :- If the pressure of the pressure foot is not as per the fabric than this can be also the cause of puckering. Misalignment of layer :- while top stitch or at the time of joining layer are not aligned will be the cause of puckering. Incompatible thread :- If thread is not compatible to the fabric than this will also be the cause of seam puckering. Bursting of weave threads means rupture or damage of threads in fabrics during the sewing process.

Causes The reason is a fixation of the threads in the weave - also called jamming of weave thread - caused by the structure of the weave, by dressings, or by mechanical strain on the fabric when being sewn. Burst weave threads of sensitive twill sewn with different needle sizes are shown on illustration 2. For the purpose of clearer illustration, the seam lines on the left were sewn without sewing thread. The following needle sizes were used (from left to right): Nm 80, Nm 90, and Nm 100. It can be clearly seen that the bursting effect increases with growing needle size.Solutions Use of the thinnest possible needle Adapting the opening of the needle plate to the needle size Moistening of the fabric, for example by using a lubricant with a Silicone base. Less strongly twisted weave threads with about 4 or less turns per cm (about 10 or less turns per inch) have a greater jammed length, the relative elongation and the danger of breakage are correspondingly less.Missed/skip stitches

Causes Sewing thread - synthetic thread used for knitted fabric is apt to be fused by needle heat and a substance sticks to the lengthwise groove of needle, causing sewing thread breakage or skip stitch. Fabric structure - The inherent elasticity of the tight knitting loops resisted the downward stroke of the machine needle, flagging often occurs and especially in synthetic knits. Improper machine setting - wrong threading, faulty needlepoint, etc., will lead to skip stitching. High thread tension - Not enough thread is feed for the loop formation.Solution Reduction in the tension of thread take-up spring, lower the machine speed and use of special designed needles can help to minimize the chance of skip stitch. To use presser foot having no gap at the under surface and eliminate the notch at its back side to stabilize the thread loop during stitching. The needle plate hole diameter should be approximately double the diameter of the needle. Also the height of the needle should be moved a little (by 0.5-1mm) above and below the standard measure