sustainability starts with materials innovation€¦ · scarves shawls home & lifestyle throws...
TRANSCRIPT
Considered every thread of the way
SUSTAINABILITY STARTS WITH MATERIALS
INNOVATION
History of Commonly Known Materials
Natural
Fibers
Man-made
Fibers
An early DuPont fiber innovation
occurred in 1910 with the
development of plastic-coated
fibers. Since that time, DuPont
has been responsible for nearly
75 percent of the 40-plus major
polymers commercially produced,
all of which trace their origin to the
development of condensation
polymerization.1925
19531950
1965
Sustainability starts with materials innovation
(New)
Materials input
Production
Product used
by consumer
Post-Consumer
Waste
Waste
Collection
Waste
Processing
Natural Fiber Synthetic Fiber
1940s 90% 10%
1980s 70% 30%
Post WWII synthetic fibers quickly became the dominant fiber. Lately, natural fiber making a come back.
SHOKAY
About the yak
100gYaks have two types of hair: coarse
hair that is used to make tents and fine
down hair used to make clothing. Each
yak every year only can provide 100g
of its fine downy fiber.
80% 80% of the world’s yak
population is in Western China
14,000,000There are 14 million yaks in the world. For
every 5 cashmere goats there is only 1 yak.
3500mYaks generally live on the Tibetan
plateau at altitudes over 3500m
11 years ago, a diamond in the rough
From combing to segmentation
We developed an ecosystem of partners from raw material to finished products to innovate across the supply chain
Sourcing
• Trained Tibetan
herders to sort raw
yak fiber by quality
and color
Dehairing
• Clearly segments
different qualities of
yak fiber to be used
for different
purposes
downstream
Dying
•Has developed over
100+ colors
Spinning
•Has developed a
variety of different
blends and yarn
counts
Knitting/weaving
•Works with factories
on finishing
techniques to
maximize hand feel
but minimize pilling
Shokay also has ongoing projects with many academic and government institutions to further advance the industry
Academic Institutions
Industry Associations
Government bodies
Yak down is a luxury fiber that is relatively unknown to the
fashion world.
Each yak produces about 100g of fine downy fiber. The average
fineness of down from an adult yak is 18-20 microns, while the
length is around 30-40 mm. The most common natural color of
the yak is a dark chocolate brown, but can also be found in white,
tan, and gray. Unlike wool, the scales of yak fiber are in a waved
mosaic pattern, resulting in a very smooth fiber that does not itch.
Warm
Breathable
Non-itchy
Non-allergenic
Biodegradable
Oil free
Waterproof
Unique Properties of Yak Down
Yak is 30% warmer than wool and
1.6X more breathable than
cashmere
Yak fiber properties
Test Yak Cashmere Merino Wool
Fineness++ +++ +
Fiber length+ ++ +++
Fiber Strength+++ ++ +
Warmth+++ ++ +
Air permeability+++ + ++
Smoothness++ +++ +
Price++ + +++
Is yak the new cashmere?
…yak has the advantage of unconventionality.
“Cashmere is mainstream,” said Mr. Berga. “Now
you have cashmere from Uniqlo and Zara.” Mass-
market ubiquity has diluted some of its charm and
even its quality. With yak, fewer suppliers make
purity easier to guarantee. Which is why high-end
brands like Incotex, Massimo Alba and
Ermenegildo Zegna have turned to it as an
alternative to cashmere. “There are very few
brands producing yak, so now is the right moment
to buy it,” said Mr. Alba. “You have the chance to
do something before anyone else.”
– Wall Street Journal (11/26/2016)
Classifications
Shokay stocks dehaired fibers in different
classifications to enable spinning mills to
choose the optimal price/quality ratio based
on their needs
Available colors
Natural color (chocolate brown)
Heathered (khaiki)
Processed white fiber (cream).
Specification
Fineness: 18-19 micron
Length: 28-30mm
Shokay Fibers & Tops
Shokay Yarns include both machine spun and hand spun
yarns that are spun with
100% yak
yak/wool blends
yak/pima cotton blends
yak/bamboo blends
With yarn counts that vary from 18s to 60s, the yarns can
be used for machine knitting, machine weaving, and
hand knitting. Many brands around the world have
started using Shokay Yarns in their designs.
Shokay Yarns
Fabrics made from yak have an extremely soft surface
suitable for the next-to-skin touch, has anti-wrinkle
properties, and a beautiful body due to the resilience of
the fiber.
We have collaborated with Mitsuboshi, a Japanese
fabric company, to develop a special line of fabrics of
the highest quality. Our current fabrics are most
suitable for outwear and include the following blends
100% yak
50% yak/ 50% wool double faced fabric
Shokay Fabrics
Knitwear
Women
Men
Accessories
Hats
Gloves
Scarves
Shawls
Home & Lifestyle
Throws
Pillows
Hand knit toys
Shokay Finished Products
At Rest Shawl
AC-SH-DRPrayer Flag at Full
Flutter Shawl
AC-SH-DF
Ready for Release Shawl
AC-SH-DY
Stacked Shawl
AC-SH-DS
Woolen Gang Shawl
AC-SH-DW
Artist in Residence Collection
Watercolor Block Shawl
AC-SH-WB
Watercolor Brush Shawl
AC-SH-WR
Mist and Ripples Shawl
AC-SH-MR
All Artist in Residence
Shawls are digitally printed
on 100% Yak. Custom
printing option available
Making a difference
Shokay considers our success not only in terms of profit,
but also by how we are impacting the communities we
work with in rural China.
Empowering young TibetansShokay now trains young Tibetans to set up local businesses
and cooperatives to assist Shokay with on the ground training
and sourcing.
1000+ familiesThousands of families are now involved in our supply chain.
Restoring identity & dignityThrough our Artist in Residence Program and Qinghai
Expeditions, we create a cultural dialogue between artists,
local communities, and our customers. The process invites
local herders embrace their culture and identity with greater
dignity and pride.
We continuously reinvest into the local communities
800 herdersOver 800 herders in Qinghai have benefitted
from Shokay’s health care programs, which
has included health care training, free clinic,
and giving out free eye glasses.
20% income increaseIn 2010, Shokay started a handspun yarn
cooperative in Qinghai. Women trained through
the program can increase their income by over
20%.
Our Approach
Drive end-consumer demand
We partner with brands and designers interested in using sustainable materials to develop new products
and launch creative marketing strategies to drive end-consumer demand
Develop new products along the supply chain
We develop new products along the supply chain, from yarns, fabrics, to fillings, to broaden end-use
applications
Identify unique sustainable materials
We look specifically at underutilized natural materials, renewable resources, and consumer waste to identify
sustainable materials that we can take to market
The Problem: sea waste + land waste
Oyster Shell
Over 4 million tons of oyster shell waste is
produced every year, with 3.4 tons being in China.
Oyster shells become solid waste that often piles
up in coastal cities, taking up precious space and
resulting in foul smells.
PET Bottles
10% of all US oil consumed is used to make
plastics, which if not recycled, end up in the landfill
or in the sea. Many countries now recycle between
30-50% of PET bottles, which can be melted and
reused for other purposes. 1 pound of polyester
fiber can reuse 10 plastic bottles.
•Bottles are recycled,
collected, and chopped
into chips
Recycled
bottles
•Chips are melted to
make into uniform
pellets, which then are
re-melted to spin yarn
Chips &
Pellets
•Yarn is knitted or woven
into fabricYarn
Fabric
How It’s Made
•Oyster shells are
recycled, collected,
and pulverized into
powder.
Recycled
oyster shells
•The oyster
powder coats
the pellets to
create a
composite yarn.
Oyster shell
powder
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SHOKAY-collection
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Thank you & 扎西德勒!