sulfate free solutions for personal care applications

Engineering Conferences InternationalECI Digital Archives

Advances in Cosmetic Formulation Design Proceedings

7-24-2018

Sulfate free solutions for personal care applicationsPrabhjyot SinghClariant, USA, [email protected]

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Recommended CitationPrabhjyot Singh, "Sulfate free solutions for personal care applications" in "Advances in Cosmetic Formulation Design", ECISymposium Series, (2018). http://dc.engconfintl.org/cosmetic/29

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Public

PJ Singh

New Product Development

BU ICS

18.02.2016

Sulfate-free solutions for personal care applications

Advances in Cosmetic Formulation Design, July 22-25Durham, NC

PJ Singh, New Product Development , BU ICS, 18.02.2016

Content

– Consumer market and trends

– Challenges with Sulfate-free formulations

– Novel ingredients

- Sulfate free

- Sustainable

- Naturally derived

– Formulation approaches

– Q&A

Public, Sulfate free for PC applications2


The sulfate-free market is driven by consumers


SAFETY AWARENESS

Access to a greater amount of

information and increased knowledge

inevitably raises questions on the

safety of some ingredients.

GREEN MOVEMENT

There is a clear trend towards

using more natural ingredients

and eliminating some potentially

environmentally harmful ingredients.

FREE CLAIMSSulfates are a very well covered

group of ingredients and are a

target for consumer groups. Hence

the many “sulfate-free“ launches.


The Sulfate-Free Hair Care Market is Expanding


L’OREALEVERCURL

SULFATE-FREE

HERBAL ESSENCESHINE COLLECTION

SULFATE-FREE

ORGANIXEVERSTRAIGHT

SULFATE-FREE

KERATASEREFLECTION

SULFATE-FREE


Sulfate-Free Claims are Present Across Categories


*Mintel – GNPD 2011-2015. Filters: BPC, Sulfate-Free claim, North America

217270

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180123

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169123

100

216

118

0

100

200

300

400

500

600

700

800

2011 2012 2013 2014 2015

Nu

mb

er

of p

ack c

laim

s

Soap & Bath Products

Skincare

Hair Products



What challenges are you facing when formulating?

POOR

VISCOSITY

LOW

FOAM

POOR

SENSORYMORE

EXPENSIVE


7

Range of Sulfate-free, Mild Surfactants for Every Application

– Primary or co-surfactants with exceptional performance

- Glucotain ® ( chain length variation featuring different benefits) – Alkyl Methyl

Glucamdes

- Hostapon® SCI: Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate

- Hostapon® SCB: Coco-betaine (and) Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate

- Glucotian Pure Lux: Blend of Sodium Cocoyl Isethinoate (and) Alkyl Methyl

Glucamide

- Glucotian Liquiflex- Lauroyl/Myristoyl Methyl Glucamide (and) Coco-Betaine

– Co-surfactants with unique benefits

- Hostapon® SG: Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate

- Hostapon® CT Liq : Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate

- Hostapon® CGN: Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate

Public, Sulfate free for PC applications


GlucoTain® contributes to your sustainability targets

8 Public, Sulfate free for PC applications

95% natural, bio-based raw materials

Renewable resources of vegetable origin

Readily biodegradable

Good eco-toxicity profile

EU Eco-label and Nordic Swan certification

glucose

fatty acid esters or triglycerides

No waste generated from the

raw materials when using

natural oils

Flexible reaction scheme

R = C8-C22


GlucoTain range




How can GlucoTain® make your life easier?

MORE

EFFICIENT

THICKENER

SMOOTH

HAIR

COST

EFFECTIVE

FAST & HIGH

FOAM

EXTRA MILD TO

SKIN,SCALP &

HAIR

SUSTAINABILE

ALTERNATIVE


Foam: Chainlength dependency

If the hydrophobic chain of a surfactant is modified normally the following applies

Short chain (C 8/10)

Midcut (C12/14)

Long chains (C16/18)

C12/14 shows normally highest foam (reasonable buildup and low collapse) and is

therefore the preferred chainlength for most applications


Bubble size

foam buildup

Flash foam

Foam collapse

Foam

creaminess,

foam stability


Why GlucoTain provides higher viscosity vs standard nonionics?


N

OH

OH

OH

OH

OHO

CH3

O

O H

OOH

O H

H

On

Critical Packing parameter


Glucamides shows good viscosifying effect

Observations by polarized microscopy revealed that Glucamides surfactants in water

show liquid crystalline lamellar structures at chain lengths above C8/10.

This effects leads to the excellent thickening effect for mid-cut- and long-chain Glucamides

in a wide range of formulations, similarly to betaine surfactants.


C 8/10 C 12/14 C 16/18

cmc (g/L) 0.52 0.059 0.0035

Surface tension at 1 g/L (mN/m) 25.7 27.6 36.4

HLB, according to Griffin 13.0 11.5 10.0


How do Glucamide systems compare to standard systems ?

Glucamide formulations behave in principle like Betaine (CAPB) formulations, visco

effect is roughly the same as a CAPB with similar chain length



Viscosity of surfactant solutions

Salt curve

– Surfactant solutions show salt dependent viscosity

– Standard SLES/CAPB-formulations like shampoos

are thickened upon salt addition, ‘salt curve’

– Maximum viscosity plateau and decrease

afterwards

– Mechanism before reaching the plateau

– Mechanism after reaching the plateau


Salt concentration h > headgroup repulsion i > surfactant curvature i >

scission energy h > number of end caps of wormlike micelles i > length

of micelles h > entanglements h > viscosity h

Salt concentration h > surfactant curvature i > inverse curvature h >

number of connections h > entanglements i > viscosity i


Glucamides provides significant viscosity increase in sulfate-free formulations

16

Base B

Surfactant % active

Glucotain Flex 4.2

Sodium cocoyl

isethionate4.7

Sodium cocoyl

glutamate2.4

Cocamidopropyl

betaine4.2

Base A

Surfactant % active

Glucotain Flex 4.5

Sodium cocoyl

isethionate3.8

Sodium cocoyl

glycinate3.8

Cocamidopropyl

betaine4.5

Base C

Surfactant % active

Glucotain Flex 3.3

Sodium alpha

olefin sulfonate5

Coco betaine 1.7

Base D

Surfactant % active

Glucotain Flex 3

Sodium cocoyl isethionate 7

Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate 3.5

Sodium lauroyl sulfoacetate 5

Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate 3

Coco betaine 1.5

0

2000

4000

6000

8000

10000

12000

14000

16000

18000

Base Base + GlucoTain Flex

Vis

cosi

ty (

cP)

Base A Base B Base C Base D



Formulations with Glucamides are salt responsive

17

2240

8500

26000

0

5000

10000

15000

20000

25000

30000

0 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5

Vis

cosi

ty (

cP)

% NaCl

Base A

Surfactant % active

Glucotain Flex 4.5

Sodium cocoyl

isethionate3.8

Sodium cocoyl

glycinate3.8

Cocamidopropyl

betaine4.5

Sulfate-free formulations with lower than desired viscosity

can be easily and efficiently thickened with NaCl



Mildness

Different mildness models are available

Proteins

Anionics are harsher than nonionics/amphoterics

Sulfates/Sulfonates are harsher than Carboxylates (softer anionics)

Typical tests: Zein Test, RBC Test (for mucous membranes)

Lipids

Lipid dissolution tests

Betains are harsher in this tests compared to SLES



How can you stand out by being mild?EXTRA MILD TO SKIN, SCALP & HAIR


Gentle to Hair Keratin Gentle to Skin and Scalp Lipids

The less Zein protein and stearic acid solubilized the milder the surfactant


How can you stand out by being mild?EXTRA MILD TO EYES


The less MIOI value the milder the surfactant

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

SLES CAPB GlucoTain®

Mean Index of Ocular Indication (MIOI)

very irritant

irritant

slightly irritant

not irritant

Gentle in RBC test (and Ocular Irritation)


What are formulators doing with GlucoTain®?


Foam Bath

Facial

Cleanser

Shampoo

Shower Gel

GlucoTain®

Clear

Hair

Mousse

Micellar

Water

Bar Soap

GlucoTain®

Plus

GlucoTain®

Flex

GlucoTain®

Care

Liquid

Soap

Public

PJ Singh


BU ICS

18.02.2016

FORMULATION VERSATILITY

FROM BLENDS

Public

PJ Singh


BU ICS

18.02.2016

Benefits of Hostapon® CT Liq- EASE OF PROCESSING

- CREAMY LATHER

- SULFATE-FREE CLEAR

- VERSATILITY


Hostapon® CT Liq : Cold Processable & Liquid


Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate

~30% a.m.Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate

~ 24% a.m.

Hostapon® CT Liq

~24% a.m.

Pearly / Paste Pearly / Viscous Clear / Liquid

31,600 cP 8,860 cP 75 cP

Viscosity: (Brookfield RV DVII, 25°C, 20 rpm, 1 min)


Hostapon® CT Liq : Ideal for clear sulfate free formulations


Sulfate free shampoo: Hostapon CT Liq

8,490 cP

Viscosity: (Brookfield RV DVII, 25°C, 20 rpm, 1 min)

I. Homogenize the phase A under heating (approx. 50°C).

II. Add B to I under stirring.

III. Add the components of C one after another to IV and homogenize with high stirring.

IV. Cool down to 25°C.

V. Add the components of D one after another to IV and homogenize during approx. 20 minutes.

VI. If necessary, adjust the pH to 6.5.

Sulfate Free Shampoo F320 % w/w

A Aqua To 100.00%

Polyquaternium-10 0.20%

PEG-6000 Distearate 0.80%

B Genagen® KB Coco-Betaine

16.67%

Hostapon® CT LiqSodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate

16.00%

C Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein 0.20%

D-Panthenol 0.20%

Nipaguard® CG Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and)

Methylisothiazolinone

0.15%

pH: 6.0 – 7.0 Viscosity (Brookfield): 7,000 – 9,000 cP, RV 5, 20 RPM

Stability: stable at RT, 2°C and 45°C for 12 weeks

Public

PJ Singh


BU ICS

18.02.2016

Benefits of Glucotian® Pure Lux- EASY TO USE JUST “DILUTE AND

GO”

- HIGH FOAMING & CREAMY,

LUXURY FOAM

- FREE FROM CLAIMS


GlucoTain Pure Lux®

27 Public, Sulfate free for PC applications

INCI: Cocoyl Methyl Glucamide, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Capryloyl/Caproyl Methyl Glucamide (and)

Lauroyl/Myristoyl Methyl Glucamide

Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate

Flexible reaction scheme

R = C8-C22

Alkyl Methyl Glucamide

Flexible reaction of Glucamides allow the optimum balance of foam and creaminess

Lower C-8:C-10 delivers flash foam

Higher C12:C-14 provides creaminess

*Glucamide chemistry allows higher SCI solubility into the formulations

* T.J.Cassady and R.R. Schoettker, Process of making skin cleansing combination soap bard and cleansing liquids, US Patent 6,046,147 (Henkel Coprporation,2000).


GlucoTain® Pure Lux*+Foam comparison vs. SLES+CAB

28

15% GlucoTain Pure Lux*

*All concentrations are active. *+Handwashing procedure: Dispense 2 ml of solution on wet palms. Perform 15 rubs to assess the foam volume.

Gather all foam in palms and perform 10 more rubs to assess the lather quality and in-use sensory.

after 25 rubs

10%SLES+5%CAB*



Volumizing Shampoo(FN#: 2-KM-11)

• Sulfate free, Betaine free, PEG

free, Silicone free, Fragrance free

• Plantasens Olive LD, a natural

alternative to silicone, provides a

soft, light and dry after feel.

• 12% Active Surfactant (Blend

only)

One Blend, Multiple Formulation Options


Daily Shampoo for

Normal Hair (FN#: 1-KM-77 Lot# 1-KM-90)

• Sulfate free, Betaine free,

Silicone free, Fragrance free


alternative to silicone, provides

a soft, light and dry after feel.


only)

Damage Repair

Conditioning Shampoo(FN#: 1-KM-84)

• Sulfate free, PEG free, Silicone free,

Fragrance free

• Plantasens Crambisol added for

strengthening and increasing hair

thickness


alternative to silicone, provides a

soft, light and dry after feel.

• 21% Active Surfactant (Blend and

CAB)

Gentle Clarifying Shampoo(FN#: 1-KM-83)

• Sulfate free, PEG free, Silicone

free, Fragrance free

• No additional conditioning

agents added


and CAB)

Public

PJ Singh


BU ICS

18.02.2016

Benefits of Glucotian®

Liquiflex- EASE OF PROCESSING

- MULTIFUNCTIONAL

- OUTSTANDING VISCOSIFYING

ACTION


• INCI: Lauroyl/Myristoyl Methyl Glucamide (and)

Coco-Betaine

Feel The Ease Of CreativityGlucoTain® liquiFlex

• Multifunctional, easy to handle liquid mild surfactant

blend

• Outstanding viscosifying action

• High foam

• Conditioning effect in the dry state

• For Sulfate, EO-free and CAPB-free formulations

• Self Preserving

31

High foam

Nourishing after feel

Easy to rinse off



Cost effective - Replacement of the co-surfactants and re-fatting agents


Formulation Ingredients* Formulation

Ba 141-35

Improvement III

Ba 141-17

Aqua 78.0 80.80

Sodium Laureth Sulfate 9.5 0

Hostapur® OS LiquidINCI: Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate

0 7.9

Sodium Chloride (total) 2 2.1

Glycerine 4 2.0

Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1.8 0

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 1 0

Laureth-3 1 0

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.5 0

GlucoTain® liquiFlex 0 3.4

Preservative (Sodium Benzoate) 0.5

Citric Acid

Perfume

pH value 5.5 5.3

Viscosity (Brookfield, 20 rpm, 20°C) 13.000 3600

Cost Saving in cts 2.2

Achievements

Replaced surfactant resulted in a

sulfate and EO-free formulation!

Replaced conditioning agent with no

compromise on after-feel and re-fatting

effect!

*All concentrations based on active content

Sulfate and EO-free formulation with a superb

foam texture and a conditioning after-feel!

Comparable costs on ingredients!

Replaced solubilizer with no negative effect

on turbidity due to perfume!

Easy to thicken without associative thickener

Humectant content reduced by half with

equivalent skin-feel!

Replaced co-surfactant resulted in

more creamy foam!

sulfate free solutions for personal care applications

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