subagen build steps 1-12 complete

8/3/2019 SUBAGEN Build Steps 1-12 Complete

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So you got your new parts in, ok what is next????

Here we go; after you receive you SCUBAGENv3 package in the mail you will have

one of these in the package:

The first thing to do is start with the battery connector; I used an old CE2 connector

for the bottom.

The reason is it is easier to solder the positive wire to the connector. The CE2 has a

long tube that sticks out. Since we do not need it that long we are going to cut

some off, but save it for later.


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After we have cut off some of the tube we are going to gather together, a solder

iron, flux (I use RubyFluid) and some 22ga wire.

Now I like the helping hands I got from radio shack, but a needle nose vise grip will

work, just something to hold the piece while you solder. (IT WILL GET HOT) Now I

always pre-tin my pieces, meaning I heat up the iron and solder both pieces before

soldering them together. Once you have them both pre-tinned place the wire onto

the connector and heat both up with the soldering iron. Once the silver solder melts

together remove the iron and keep you hand still until the solder cools.


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I like using heat shrink (get at any automotive store) to go over the solder

connection, it just minimizes the chance of the tube contacting the SS wall inside

the tube.


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Now heat up the heat shrink and it will shrink down to the size of the tube and

solder point.

Ok, whew step one done, pat yourself on the back!

Now once it has cooled down slide the wire into the bottom of the scubagen tube. At

this point go looking for an old 510 to whatever connector, I used a 510 to 801

adapter. This will protect the threads during the whacking phase

Screw the adapter onto the 510 threads, now you can use a small hammer and

tap/whack it into place, or if you have a vise you can pres it in. Your choice.


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Once you have it fully seated, remove the adapter and sit back and bask in the glow

that you have completed step two!

Now the fun begins, go looking for some old Bic pens, the holes on top are 1/8 in

dia. 3 of these holes will need to have the Bic pen plastic tube put in them to isolate

electrical shorting.


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This is what the pen insert should look like fit into the 1/8 holes.

Just cut off the clear part of the tube, you will need three.


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Remember that center tube you cut off the CE2? It fits perfectly into the Bic pen

tube, we will use that later, dont lose it!!

First one will go into the hole next to the groove that is cut in the top tube. Leave

about 1/32 of an inch above the top.


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The other two get pushed into the two holes that go all the way through the top,

this is to isolate the SS wick from the SS body. (Bottom Picture)

I used a drop of super glue on the center of the tube and rotated as I pulled it backin. This will hold it in place. (Top Picture) Notice I cut the tubes at a 45 degree angle

towards the top tube. This helps keep the SS wick up and over the top tube to

minimize contact and shorting.


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Congrats, step thee is done, next we will build up the connector.

You will need the following, 2 19ga nails, 1mm x 5mm 2 springs, 4 carto center

posts or 4 m1.6 nuts.

I will be using the carto center posts for this tut. The only difference on the m1.6

nuts is you use a m1.6 bolt to screw two of the nuts onto and lock them together

(Tighten them against each other). So you will be using the bolt to turn them on the

cutting wheel to bevel them.


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Grab one of the center posts and rotate it while touching a dremel cutting wheel at

a 45 degree angle.

Once you have a nice bevel


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It is time to cut it off with the cutting wheel

Tada one, beveled washer, ok now do the other 3.

Finish step 4


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Once you have all 4 done, grab 2 and face them bevel to bevel and slide them on

the nail, now add one spring. Stack up should look like this:

Ok I use a pair of forceps to hold the spring compressed while tinning it. Add a dab

of the ruby flux


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And touch it with the soldering iron with a little solder

Now remember that center tube I said to save, here is where we will use it. Go

ahead and use some ruby flux inside of the tube and do the same thing touch it

with the soldering iron and add solder.


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Now it time to tin the positive wire, add a little ruby flux and do the same as above

for tinning

Nicely tinned


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Now for the tricky part We are going to heat up the solder in the tube and the

positive wire and put the positive wire into the tube.

Using the forceps we are going to hold the tube, press down with a little pressure on

the nail and heat the top of the tube until the nail slides in. We want some

compression on the spring but not a lot.


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Now just cut off the excess tube with the cutting wheel

and insert the 5/16 long tube into the bic tube.

Finish step 5


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Time to do the negative post

Same concept, stack the washers and spring, use the forceps and tin the nail.

Now, take two of the tubes and cut the 1/8 x 1/8 top piece off

Tin inside both pieces


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We are going to stack these so it makes a good post to insert into the 1/8 hole in

the gen mod.

Heat up the first one and the nail and insert the nail into it.

Allow it to cool a little and insert into the second one while heating it.

Once it is heated and the nail is in the second one


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Flip it over and pus the second one down the nail while heating until the spring is

compressed slightly

Allow it to cool, should look like this:


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Now cut off the nail tip with the cutting wheel.

Now press it into the 1/8 holes in the gen mod

Finish step 6

Dont tap the nail to set it in the hole. I put a pair of pliers on the spring so the edge

of the pliers catches the lip of the first tube. Now I lightly tap with a small hammer

until I am satisfied it will not come out or wiggle around.


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Well that is it for the spring connector, if you did it right you can insert 32awg

nichrome or kanthal in-between the washers and it will support the weight of the

gen mod.

Time to cut some tubing! Get you poly tub and your pipe cutter and something to

put inside to support the tubing during the cutting process. I used an old mag lite. It

is smaller than so the poly tubing bends a little but when the pipe cutter finally

cuts through it does not cut/scar the mag lite.


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Cut one piece for the main body so the tube ends between the rubber o-rings.

End step 7

Now cut one for the top also, now it is time to do the inside bevel. I used a 45

degree mounted grinding bit.


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Gives the inside a nice 45 degree bevel so the tube goes over the o-rings easier.

End step 8


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Now I clean up the ends with a little sand paper and she is ready for assembly.

Bottom goes on first:

And then the top.

End step 9

Only thing to do now is roll the SS wick and add 32AWG Kanthal.

Layout your piece of SS


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Fold one edge over

Now use a paper clip and roll the SS as tight as you can get it


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Now you want it snug in the holes but not really loose, so you will have to play with

how tightly you wrap it when you remove the paper clip. Inset the SS into the modand using a wind proof lighter or butane torch heat the SS red hot, and quench it in

water, do this 3-4 times.

End Step 10


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Remove the SS and wrap you 32AWG Kanthal around the wick 3 wraps is approx

2.1ohms, 5 is approx 2.4 ohms.

Now wrap the Kanthal or Nichrome which ever you chose around the beveled

washers and push the wire in between the washers with your finger nail.


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Clip the wire, I have added a CE2 silicon washer on top of the splash post, this helps

to keep juice from going into the center tube.

End step 11

The only thing left is to add a little PG to the wick on top and fire the atty. If the coil

only heats up partially then use a tooth pick to move the coil a little. Continue to hit

the fire button and move the coil until the wire glows complete without shorting to

the SS.

Ok now fill with your favorite juice and vape!

End step 12

Congrats your build is complete!

subagen build steps 1-12 complete

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