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Trip ReportTrip ReportTANZANIA’S LEGENDARY GAME RESERVETANZANIA’S LEGENDARY GAME RESERVE

STUNNING SELOUSSTUNNING SELOUSA brief but highly productive visit to a UNESCO World Heritage Site,

one of Africa’s most hauntingly beautiful - and largest - wildlife sanctuariesA brief but highly productive visit to a UNESCO World Heritage Site,

one of Africa’s most hauntingly beautiful - and largest - wildlife sanctuaries

HEREGOOGLE EARTH COORDINATES HERE

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African Elephant Loxodonta africanaThe Selous Game Reserve is one of the largest faunal reserves in the world, located in the south of Tanzania. It was named after Englishman Sir Frederick Selous,a famous big game hunter and early conservationist, who died at Beho Beho in this territory in 1917 while fighting against the Germans during World War I.

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TEXT AND PHOTOS BY SCOTT BENNETT

Channel View The Selous Game Reserve was designated a UNESCO World HeritageSite in 1982 due to the diversity of its wildlife and undisturbed nature.

here’s just something about Africa.Ever since my first visit, it has forged anindelible imprint on my psyche. It has thatspecial something; a feeling of timelesswilderness and raw beauty that is difficultto encapsulate into mere words.Having just finished a few underwaterphoto assignments in Tanzania, I was eagerfor a safari. Having previously experiencedthe northern safari circuit, I was eager to trysomewhere new. Situated in the southernpart of the country, the Selous GameReserve proved to be just the ticket.

Bigger than Wales and four times the sizeof the Serengeti, the Selous is the largestgame reserve in all of Africa. Coveringapproximately 50,000 km2, it boastspanoply of habitats, from lakes and hotsprings to acacia woodlands, riverine forestand open grassland, all boasting anincredible array of wildlife. Compared tothe northern parks, it receives a fraction ofthe visitors due to its more remote locationand fewer accommodation options.Tourism is confined to the region north of theRuaha and Rufiji rivers, which comprises12% of the park’s total area.

My accommodation was the Lake ManzeAdventure Camp, a relatively new campoperated by Coastal Aviation. My 4-daytrip was booked online at the last minuteand coincided with the arrival of the rainyseason. While most people visit during the

height of the dry when game is crowdedaround the diminishing water supplies, therainy season offers its own unique rewards.Although game is more widely dispersed,the landscape is verdant and birdlifeabundant. Best of all, the crowds areabsent, ensuring that a safari experiencedoesn’t entail a squadron of vehiclesparked around a hapless lion. With justunder two weeks to go before closing forthe rainy season, I would have the campvirtually to myself.

From Dar es Salaam’s domestic terminal,the flight was under an hour, including stopsat the park’s other two airstrips. Dar’s urbansprawl quickly gave way to endlessmiombo woodland, with an occasionalroad the only sign of human habitation.Making our final descent, wildlife wasalready apparent. Hippos frolicked in cola-brown water while zebra, giraffe andimpala bolted for the safety of the trees. Thelonely airstrip buzzed with activity, withseveral vehicles and a crowd of peoplewaiting for the return flight. Patiently waitingto meet me was guide Victor and driverAlly, who promptly loaded my gear into theopen-sided safari vehicle. I discovered thedrive to camp would take an hour. Itcertainly didn’t take long to find some photosubjects. As the Selous is a Game Reserve,off road driving is allowed, unlike inTanzania’s national parks. When Victorspotted some giraffe, zebra, waterbuck

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Aerial View The Selous Game Reserve covers a total area of 54,600 km2 (21,100 sq mi) and has additional buffer zones. Within the reserve no permanent human habitation orpermanent structures are permitted. All human entry and exit is carefully controlled by the Wildlife Division of the Tanzanian Ministry of Natural Resources and Tourism.

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Fighting Hippos Hippopotamus amphibiusSome of the typical species of the bush (elephants, hippos, African Wild Dog, Cape buffalo, crocodiles) can be found here in larger numbers than in any other Africangame reserve or National Park. However the reserve is large, and densities of animals are lower than in the more regularly visited northern tourist circuit of Tanzania.

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Palmyra Palm Borassus aethiopumThe area was first designated a protected area in 1896 by the German GovernorHermann von Wissmann and finally became a hunting reserve in 1905.

and greater kudu way off in a clearing, weset out after them cross-country. Shortlyafterwards, the road was blocked by aconvention of marabou storks. A large birdwith a vaguely sinister appearance, themarabou boasts a wingspan of at least3.5m, one of the largest of any land bird.A frequent scavenger, it eats mainlycarrion, but will also take fish, frogs, eggs,small mammals and reptiles. With overtwenty birds to choose from, it madephotography a challenge. A sign soonproclaimed the turnoff to the camp. Enroute,we stopped alongside the lake itself. Likeghostly sentinels, dead trees rose from theplacid waters, their tangle of spreadingbranches bare against the clear blue sky. Ashrill cry announced the presence of anAfrican fish eagle perched atop one of thehighest branches. A small crocodile deftlysnapped up a fish as sacred ibis,blacksmith plovers and yellow-billed storkspatrolled the shallows. An African piedkingfisher, Africa’s largest, hovered highabove the water like a miniature helicopterbefore plummeting to the surface to spearan unwary fish. All this and I hadn’t evenunpacked my bags yet!

Arriving at the camp, I was warmly greetedby resort manager Sarah Gigli. Hailingfrom Italy, she was the sole woman in a staffof fifty. Manze’s communal area consists ofan expansive thatched roof spreadingabove a sand floor, with armchairs andsofas to observe the animals come and go.Although initially dismayed to discover thetents lacked electricity, I was relieved to

discover an extensive bank of outlets at thebar for charging camera batteries and mylaptop. During my briefing, a loudtrumpeting caused my eyes to widen, muchto Sarah’s amusement. “Was that anelephant?” I queried, with a smidgeon ofnervousness creeping into my voice. “Yes,they come through the camp all the time”she responded nonchalantly. At thatmoment, civilization seemed very distantindeed! With the sun creeping towards thehorizon, Sarah informed me an escortback to my tent was required. Waitingdutifully at the path was one of the resort’sstaff of Masai. Colourfully garbed instriking crimson robes, his weaponryconsisted of a slender wooden staff with aconspicuous lack of sharp points. I didn’twant to contemplate how he would dealwith a rampaging elephant. Then again,with generations of experience dealingwith Africa’s megafauna, I knew I was ingood hands. My accommodation was aMeru-style canvas tent complete withwindows, washroom, outdoor shower anda covered verandah. Candles andkerosene lamps provided lighting. Simpleyet comfortable, I felt like I’d beentransported back to the safari days of old.All I was missing was the pith helmet! Withjust over an hour before being collected fordinner, I stretched for a snooze. I hadbarely drifted off when a colossaltrumpeting propelled me into mid-air.Senses on high alert, I waited for a repeat.Fumbling for my torch, I looked to the tentflap, where I half-expected to see anelephant’s face peering through the mesh.

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Nile Crocodile Crocodylus niloticusMost of the Selous Reserve - one of the largest remaining wilderness areas in Africa today - remains set aside for game hunting through a number of privately leasedhunting concessions, but a section of the northern Park along the Rufiji River has been designated a photographic zone and is a popular tourist destination.

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Lioness Panthera leoLions live for 10–14 years in the wild, while in captivity they can live longer than 20years.They inhabit savanna and grassland, but they may take to bush and forest.

I was soon grateful for my escort as myguide’s torch beam illuminated the ghostlysilhouette of an elephant lumbering acrossthe path. Near the reception area, wemade a slight deviation. Sitting at the baseof a tree, a large puff adder sat motionless,waiting for prey to come within strikingdistance. Apparently, it had already beenthere for two days. Before dinner, Sarahasked what activities I’d like to do duringmy stay. On offer was a walking safari,game drives and a choice of boat cruises.Although fun, I have found walking safarisnot to be particularly conducive tophotography. Instead, I opted for a boatcruise in the morning followed by anafternoon game drive. After a deliciousdinner under the stars, I ventured back tomy tent to prepare camera gear for the nextmorning.

Sunrise was heralded by a cacophony ofwhite-browed sparrow weavers residing inthe tree beside my tent. A jumbled medleyof birdsong soon punctuated the morningair, with ring-necked dove, red-billedhornbill and go-away birds contributing tothe chorus. Stepping outside, I stoppeddead in my tracks. A short distance away,a buffalo stared menacingly. Needless tosay, I didn’t venture past the verandah untilmy Masai escort showed up. After a coffee, I boarded the truck by 7:00.A short drive brought us to a channelleading to Lake Manze. In a continentwhere the pendulum swings tempestuouslybetween wet and dry, the area’s permanentwater supply is a welcome relief to the local

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wildlife. Although we would concentrate onthe channels, we started with a short detourinto Lake Manze itself. The early morninglight was glorious. Ahead, a flotilla ofbobbing heads indicated the presence ofhippos. Piled atop one another, snortingand squabbling, there’s just somethingabout hippos that I find inherently amusing.Their comical appearance belies the realityhowever, as they kill more people in Africaevery year than all other animals combined.Fortunately, the first pod possessed abenign temperament and we were able toapproach reasonably close.

The myriad of channels proved to be a birdphotographer’s delight. Numerous yellow-billed storks flanked the waters’ edge, alongwith open-billed storks, African jacana’s,goliath herons, Egyptian geese and white-faced whistling ducks. Crafty hunters, blackegrets spread their wings over the water,generating shade to lure unsuspecting fishright to their feet. Reeds fringing the shorewere home to Africa golden weavers,whose basket- shaped nests dangledprecariously above the waterline. Jewel-likemalachite kingfishers were everywhere andwere exceedingly tolerant. More than once,we actually got closer than my lens’ closestfocusing distance and had to back up!Motoring around a bend in the channel, wehappened upon a lone buffalo foraging atthe water’s edge. Gently drifting right up tothe enormous beast, it glared at us, eyesimbued with brooding malevolence.Daintily perched atop its head, a cattleegret completed the picture. Before long, it

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Black Egret Egretta ardesiacaWalking safaris are permitted in the Selous, and boat trips on the Rufiji -

offering excellent photographic opportunities - are a popular activity.

African Elephant Tit Loxodonta africanaHabitats found in the Selous Game Reserve include grassland, typical Acaciasavanna, wetlands and extensive Miombo woodlands.

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Lion cub Panthera leoThe lion is a vulnerable species, with a major population decline in its African range of 30–50% per two decades during the second half of the20th century. Although the cause of the decline is not fully understood, habitat loss and conflicts with humans are the greatest causes of concern.

was time to head back to the camp, wherea delicious full breakfast was waiting. Evenin the dining area, wildlife was never faraway. Sparrow weavers hopped about myfeet while a crested barbet waited patientlyfor errant crumb atop a nearby chair. Istopped to see if the puff adder was stillthere. It hadn’t budged, so I quickly returnedto my tent to grab my tripod and get a fewshots. After uploading my photos and achange of memory cards, it was time for theafternoon game drive. Despite being on thecusp of the green season, wildlife wasabundant and easy to spot. Impalas werevirtually everywhere. Giraffe were equallyplentiful; so much so that I soon stoppedtaking photos of them unless they were inexceptional light or striking a unique pose.To cap off a stunning drive, we wererewarded with a pride of lions, including amale, five females and a bevy of restlesscubs. Stopping within a few metres of them,I spent a very pleasant half hourphotographing to my heart’s content.During the entire drive, I don’t think I sawmore than one other vehicle.

The ensuing two days yielded a never-ending array of photo ops. On an earlymorning drive, a young male elephant,clearly miffed by our presence, decided toshow us to show us who was boss. Withears flapping like giant leathery umbrellas,he charged, halting a scant few metres fromour front bumper. I turned to my guideEmanuel. “Is it wise for us to be this close?”I queried, my voice quavering with alarm.“He’s just trying to scare us” was the

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White-faced Whistling Duck Dendrocygna viduataA highly gregarious species, with flocks of a thousand or more birds.

Spotted Hyena Crocuta crocutaA highly successful animal, being the most common large carnivore in Africa.

images as the bird made several forays,returning to exactly the same spot. Strikinglyattired lilac-breasted rollers also provedcooperative, as we were able to come rightup to them as they perched on roadsideshrubs.

My stay at Selous, albeit brief, was simplyincredible. Although the mammalphotography was superb, it was the birdsthat I especially enjoyed. In the Selous, fullframe images could be easily producedwithout hauling around a monster lens. Yet,despite seeing so much, I barely scratchedthe surface of what the park had to offer.

When travelling in Africa, wildlifephotographers wielding a mountain ofgear had better brace themselves. Due tothe small planes being utilized on thedomestic routes, local airlines areexceptionally stringent when it comes tobaggage weight. As both you and yourbaggage will be weighed at check-in, bringonly what you absolutely need. To helpminimize gear, zoom lenses are a goodbet. My gear consisted of a pair of NikonD200 bodies with an 80-400mmVR and17-70mm lenses, a wireless flash and apolarizer. As the vast majority of shooting isdone in a boat or vehicle, tripods are prettymuch impractical. A beanbag is a muchbetter option. On a final note, try to wearas many of your clothes as possible on yourdeparture day. You may broil, but it’sdefinitely worth it. Finally, keep a pair ofcameras at the ready at all times. Alwaysexpect the unexpected! .

nonchalant response. I couldn’t help butthink that he was succeeding! After aminute of bluster, the belligerent teenagerretreated and resumed feeding. As theheat subsided by late afternoon, hipposstarted moving ashore. One large bull,flanks criss-crossed with a bevy of scars,lunged towards a female with a calfresulting in an open-mouthed standoff.Fortunately, no damage was done and thequarrelsome male melted into the densevegetation.

There was still one bird I was eager to see.Despite having observed both little andwhite-fronted bee-eaters, one colourfulrelative had thus far remained elusive: thecarmine bee-eater. Motoring across thelake to an island of vegetation, we cameacross not one, but an entire garrulouscolony! With nothing to rest my lens on, Iwas forced to shoot at a higher ISO tocompensate for the rapidly waning light.Thank goodness for the VR function!

Alas, my visit flew by all too quickly andmy final morning drive had arrived. Wewould do a game drive enroute to theairstrip, stopping for a full-on bushbreakfast. Ironically, carmine bee-eatersnow seemed to be everywhere. Out on thesavannah, they were easy to spot,perching on the upward spreading limbsof fallen trees. Stopping to observe onespecimen, it swooped off, only to returnmoments later with a bee firmly clasped init its slender bill. Focusing on its preferredperch, I was able to get a number of

Northern Carmine Bee-eater Merops nubicusCarmine Bee-eaters nest in large colonies in cliffs, usually near river banks, where they use their bills to dig long horizontal nesting tunnels, often eight feet or more in length. Themain hunting strategy of bee-eater is to keep watch for flying insects from a perch, and then snatch them out of the air using their beaks, before returning to the perch.

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Goliath Heron Ardea goliathThe world's largest heron. The height is 120–152 cm (47–60 in), the wingspan is185–230 cm (73–91 in) and the weight is 4–5 kg (8.8–11 lbs).

Northern Carmine Bee-eater Merops nubicusThe Bee-eaters’ diet is made up primarily of bees and other

flying insects, such as grasshoppers and locusts.

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African or Cape Buffalo Syncerus cafferThis species is not closely related to the wild Asian water buffalo, and its ancestry remains unclear. The African buffalo is not the ancestor of domestic cattle, and is onlydistantly related to other larger bovines. Owing to its unpredictable nature, which makes it highly dangerous to humans, the African buffalo has never been domesticated.

African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vociferA large species that is found throughout sub-Saharan Africa wherever large bodies of open water occur.

Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudatusWidely distributed in sub-Saharan Africa and the southern

Arabian Peninsula, preferring open woodland and savanna.

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African or Cape Buffalo with egret Syncerus cafferOne of the most successful grazers in Africa. It lives in swamps and floodplains, aswell as mopane grasslands and forests of the major mountains of Africa.

Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibisA large wading bird in the stork family Ciconiidae. It occurs in

Africa south of the Sahara and in Madagascar.

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Lioness Panthera leoSleeping mainly during the day, lions are primarily nocturnal or crepuscular.

Selous’ Zebra Equus quagga selousiA severely endangered species mostly found in Mozambique.

Puff Adder Bitis arietansA very common, highly cryptic and extremely dangerous species.

Nile Crocodile with prey Crocodylus niloticusAn opportunist hunter which will prey on fish, reptiles, birds and mammals.

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Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibiusHippos are some of the largest quadrupeds and they can easily outrun a human, having been clocked at 30 km/h (19 mph) over short distances. Hippos - among themost aggressive creatures in the world and, as such, among the most dangerous animals in Africa - are threatened by habitat loss and poaching for meat and ivory.

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Bush breakfast Rather difficult road access means most visitors arrive by small

aircraft from Dar es Salaam, though train access is also possible.

Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibiusHippos are semiaquatic, inhabiting rivers, lakes and mangrove swamps, where territorial bulls preside over a stretchof river and groups of five to 30 females and young. During the day, they remain cool by staying in the water.

Camp tent interior There are several high end lodges and camps in the Selous Game

Reserve, mainly situated along the river and lake systems.