standards & guidelines for knitting and crochet · 2018-11-07 · standards & guidelines...

STANDARDS&

GUIDELINESfor

Crochetand

Knittingcompiled by

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Standards & Guidelines

The publishers, fiber, needle and hook manufacturers, and yarn members of the Craft Yarn Council have worked together

to set up a series of guidelines and symbols to bring uniformity to yarn, needle and hook labeling, and to patterns, whether they appear in books, magazines, leaflets or on yarn labels. Our goal is to make it easier for industry manufacturers, publishers and designers to prepare consumer-friendly products and for consumers to select the right materials for a project and complete it successfully.

We urge manufacturers, publishers, and designers to adopt these guidelines. Downloads of the graphic symbols are available at www.YarnStandards.com at no charge. We ask that if you use them in any publication that you advise us in an e-mail of your intention to use them and that the following credit line be given:

Source: Craft Yarn Council’s www.YarnStandards.com

We received valuable input from allied associations in the United States, such as The National NeedleArts Association, the Crochet Guild of America, and The Knitting Guild Association, as well as designers and consumers. Ultimately, our objective is to design global standards and guidelines that will be used by companies worldwide. To this end, we have reached out to individuals, manufacturers and trade associations in the United Kingdom, Germany, Italy, France, as well as in Australia and New Zealand to ask for their input.

ContentsCrochet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Abbreviations — Crochet Master List . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Terms & Common Measurements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Tunisian Abbreviations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Term differences between the U.S., U.K and Canada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2Crochet Chart Symbols . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Knitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Abbreviations — Knitting Master List . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Terms & Common Measurements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Term differences between the U.S. and Canada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Knit Chart Symbols . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Cable Symbols . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Loom Knitting Abbreviations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Wraps Per Inch — How to Measure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Project Levels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Standard Body Measurements/Sizing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Ease & Fit Chart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Length Chart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13How to Measure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Size Charts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Baby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Child . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Youth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Woman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Man . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19Foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Hand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Standard Yarn Weight System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Système standard de grosseur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23Sistema de Peso Estandar para Estambre . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Schematics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26Hooks & Needles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27Steel Hooks & Crochet Threads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Yarn Label Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29Care Symbols . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29Designer Guidelines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Before you submit your design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30The design submission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31The submission process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31How companies process submissions . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32What happens after a design is accepted . . . . . . . . . . 32Before you begin the project . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32The completed project . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33The pattern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33Sending an invoice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Craft Yarn Council contact information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com

1

Crochet Abbreviations Master ListFollowing is a list of crochet abbreviations used in patterns by yarn industry designers and publishers. In addition, designers and publishers may use special abbreviations in a pattern, which you might not find on this list. Generally, a definition of special abbreviations is given at the beginning of a book or pattern. These definitions reflect U.S. crochet terminology.

Abbreviation Descriptionalt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . alternate approx. . . . . . . . . . . approximately beg . . . . . . . . . . . . . begin/beginning bet . . . . . . . . . . . . . between BL or BLO . . . . . . . . . . back loop or back loop onlybo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . bobble BP. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . back post BPdc . . . . . . . . . . . . back post double crochetBPdtr . . . . . . . . . . . back post double

treble crochetBPhdc . . . . . . . . . . . back post half

double crochetBPsc. . . . . . . . . . . . . back post single crochet BPtr . . . . . . . . . . . . . back post treble crochet CC. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . contrasting color ch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . chain stitch ch- . . . . . . . . . . . . . . refer to chain or space

previously made, e.g., ch-1 space

ch-sp . . . . . . . . . . . . chain spaceCL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . cluster cont . . . . . . . . . . . . . continue dc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . double crochet dc2tog . . . . . . . . . . . double crochet 2

stitches together dec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . decreasedtr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . double treble crochetedc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . extended double crochetehdc. . . . . . . . . . . . . extended half

double crochetesc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . extended single crochetetr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . extended treble crochetFL or FLO. . . . . . . . . . . front loop or front loop onlyfoll . . . . . . . . . . . . . . followingFP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . front post FPdc . . . . . . . . . . . . . front post double crochetFPdtr . . . . . . . . . . . . front post double

treble crochet FPhdc . . . . . . . . . . . front post half

double crochetFPsc . . . . . . . . . . . . . front post single crochet

Abbreviation DescriptionFPtr . . . . . . . . . . . . . front post treble crochethdc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . half double crochethdc2tog. . . . . . . . . . half double crochet 2

stitches togetherinc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . increaselp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . loopm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . markerMC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . main color pat or patt . . . . . . . patternpc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . popcorn stitchpm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . place markerprev . . . . . . . . . . . . . previousps or puff . . . . . . . . puff stitchrem . . . . . . . . . . . . . remainingrep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . repeatrnd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . roundRS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . right sidesc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . single crochetsc2tog . . . . . . . . . . . single crochet 2

stitches togethersh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . shellsk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . skipsl st . . . . . . . . . . . . . slip stitchsm or sl m . . . . . . . . . . slip marker

sp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . spacest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . stitchtbl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . through back looptch or t-ch . . . . . . . . turning chaintog . . . . . . . . . . . . . . togethertr. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . treble crochettr2tog. . . . . . . . . . . . treble crochet 2

stitches togethertrtr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . triple treble crochetWS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . wrong sideyo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . yarn overyoh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . yarn over hook


2

Term Description* . . . . . . . . repeat the instructions following

the single asterisk as directed* * . . . . . . repeat instructions between

asterisks as many times as directed or repeat at specified locations

{ } . . . . . . . work instructions within brackets as many times as directed

[ ] . . . . . . . work instructions within brackets as many times as directed

( ) . . . . . . . work instructions within parentheses as many times as directed or work a group of stitches all in the same stitch or space

Measurement Description” or in . . . . . . . . . . . . . inch cm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . centimeterg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . gramm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . metermm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . millimeteroz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ounceyd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . yard

Tunisian AbbreviationsTunisian crochet is also commonly known as Afghan Crochet. It has also been called by a variety of other names including Shepherd's Knitting, Railroad Knitting and Cro-hooking.

Abbreviation Descriptionetss . . . . . . . . . . . . . extended Tunisian

simple stitchFwP . . . . . . . . . . . . . forward passRetP . . . . . . . . . . . . return passtdc . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tunisian double crochettfs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tunisian full stitchthdc . . . . . . . . . . . . Tunisian half double crochettks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tunisian knit stitch

Abbreviation Descriptiontps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tunisian purl stitchtrs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tunisian reverse stitch tsc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tunisian single crochettss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tunisian simple stitchtslst . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tunisian slip stitchttr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tunisian treble crochetttw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tunisian twisted stitch

Abbreviation & Term Differences between the U.S., United Kingdom (U.K.) and Canada.U.S./Canada U.K.slip stitch (sl st) . . . . . . . . . . . . . slip stitch (ss)single crochet (sc) . . . . . . . . . . double crochet (dc)half double crochet (hdc) . . . . half treble (htr)double crochet (dc). . . . . . . . . . treble (tr)treble (tr). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . double treble (dtr)double treble (dtr) . . . . . . . . . . triple treble (trtr)

U.S. U.K./Canadagauge. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . tensionyarn over (yo). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . yarn over hook (yoh)

Terms & Common Measurements


3

available at:

YarnStandards.com

Crochet Chart Symbols Stitch charts in crochet and knit patterns are being used more and more as an addition to or in place of words to describe a pattern stitch. Following are the standardized crochet symbols that have been adopted by members of the Craft Yarn Council and are considered to be the clearest and easiest to render and to read. For the most part each symbol represents a stitch as it looks on the right side of the work. Always refer to the pattern key for additional symbol definitions.

S T A N D A R D S & G U I D E L I N E S F O R C R O C H E T A N D K N I T T I N G

Standard Stitch Key= chain (ch)

= half double crochet (hdc)

= slip stitch (sl st)

= double crochet (dc)

= treble crochet (tr)

= double treble crochet (dtr)

= 5-dc shell

or = single crochet (sc)*

= sc2tog

= dc2tog

= 3-hdc cluster/puff st/bobble

= sc3tog

= dc3tog

= 3-dc cluster

= 5-dc popcorn

= front post dc (FPdc)

= back post dc (BPdc)

= ch-3 picot

= worked in back loop only**

*Both symbols are commonly used for single crochet**Symbol appears at base of stitch being worked

= worked in front loop only**

Crochet Chart SymbolsStitch charts in crochet patterns are being used more and more as an addition to or in place of words to describe a pattern stitch. Following are the standardized crochet symbols that have been adopted by members of the Craft Yarn Council and are considered to be the clearest and easiest to render and to read. For the most part each symbol represents a stitch as it looks on the right side of the work. Always refer to the pattern key for additional symbol definitions.

*Both symbols are commonly used for single crochet

**Symbol appears at base of stitch being worked

Standard Stitch Key


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Abbreviation Descriptionalt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . alternate approx . . . . . . . . . . approximately beg . . . . . . . . . . . . . beginning bet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . between BO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . bind off byo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . backward yarn over CC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . contrasting color cn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . cable needle CO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . cast on cont . . . . . . . . . . . . . continue dec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . decreasedpn . . . . . . . . . . . . . double-pointed needlesfoll . . . . . . . . . . . . . . followinc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . increasek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . knitk1B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . knit stitch in row belowkfb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . knit 1 into front and back of

a stitch; single knit increase ksp . . . . . . . . . . . . . knit 1 stitch, slip this stitch

from right needle to left needle, pass second stitch on left needle over first stitch and off left needle; return stitch to right needle; single right-leaning decrease

k2tog . . . . . . . . . . . . knit 2 stitches together; single right-leaning decrease

kwise . . . . . . . . . . . knitwiseLH. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . left hand lp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . loopm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . markerM1 or M1K . . . . . . . make one stitch knitwise;

single knit increaseM1R . . . . . . . . . . . . . make one right; single

right-leaning knit increase M1L . . . . . . . . . . . . make one left; single left-

leaning knit increaseM1p . . . . . . . . . . . . . make one purlwise;

single purl increaseM1rp . . . . . . . . . . . . make one right purlwise;

single right-leaning purl increase

Abbreviation DescriptionM1lp . . . . . . . . . . . . make one left purlwise;

single left-leaning purl increase

MC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . main colorp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . purlpat or patt . . . . . . . patternpfb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . purl 1 into front and

back of a stitch; single purl increase

pm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . place markerp2tog . . . . . . . . . . . . purl 2 stitches together;

single decrease prev . . . . . . . . . . . . . previouspsso . . . . . . . . . . . . . pass slipped stitch overp2sso. . . . . . . . . . . . pass 2 slipped stitches overpwise . . . . . . . . . . . . purlwiserem . . . . . . . . . . . . . remainingrep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . repeatrev St st . . . . . . . . . . reverse stockinette stitchRH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . right handrnd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . roundRS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . right sideSKP. . . . . . . . . . . . . . slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass

slip stitch over knit stitch; single left-leaning decrease

SK2P . . . . . . . . . . . . slip 1 knitwise, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over knit 2 together; double left-leaning decrease

sl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . slipsl1k. . . . . . . . . . . . . . slip 1 knitwisesl1p . . . . . . . . . . . . . slip 1 purlwisesl st . . . . . . . . . . . . . slip stitchsm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . slip markerssk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . slip 2 stitches knitwise, knit

these 2 stitches together through back loops; single left-leaning decrease

ssp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . slip 2 stitches knitwise, return these 2 stitches to left needle and purl them together through back loopsl; single left-leaning decrease

Knitting Abbreviations Master ListFollowing is a list of knitting abbreviations commonly used by yarn industry designers and publishers. In addition, designers and publishers may use special abbreviations in a pattern, which you might not find on this list. Generally, a definition of special abbreviations is given at the beginning of a book or pattern. These definitions reflect U.S. knitting terminology.


5

Knitting Abbreviations Master List Continued

Abbreviation Descriptionsssk . . . . . . . . . . . . . slip 3 stitches knitwise, knit

these 3 stitches together through back loops; double left-leaning decrease

sssp . . . . . . . . . . . . . slip 3 stitches knitwise, return these 3 stitches to left needle and purl these 3 stitches together through back loops; double left-leaning decrease

S2KP2 . . . . . . . . . . . slip 2 stitches as if to knit 2 together, knit 1, pass 2 slipped stitches over knit stitch; centered double decrease

SSPP2 . . . . . . . . . . . slip 2 stitches knitwise, return these 2 stitches to left needle and then slip them as if to p2tog through back loops, purl 1, pass 2 slipped stitches over purl stitch; centered double decrease

Abbreviation Descriptionst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . stitchSt st . . . . . . . . . . . . . stockinette stitchtbl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . through back looptfl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . through front looptog . . . . . . . . . . . . . . togetherWS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . wrong sidew&t . . . . . . . . . . . . . wrap and turnwyib. . . . . . . . . . . . . with yarn in backwyif . . . . . . . . . . . . . with yarn in frontyb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . yarn backyfwd or yf . . . . . . . . yarn forwardyo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . yarn overyon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . yarn over needleyrn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . yarn round needle

Term Description* . . . . . . . . repeat the instructions following

the single asterisk as directed* * . . . . . . repeat instructions between

asterisks as many times as directed or repeat at specified locations

[ ] . . . . . . . work instructions within brackets as many times as directed

{ } . . . . . . . work instructions within brackets as many times as directed

( ) . . . . . . . work instructions within parentheses as many times as directed or work a group of stitches all in the same stitch or space

Measurement Description” or in . . . . . . . . . . inch cm . . . . . . . . . . . . . centimeterg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . gramm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . metermm . . . . . . . . . . . . millimeteroz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ounceyd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . yard

Abbreviation & Term Differences between the U.S. and CanadaU.S. Canadabind off . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . cast offgauge. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . tensionslip stitch (sl st) . . . . . . . . . . . . . slip stitch (ss)

Terms & Common Measurements


6

Knit Chart SymbolsStitch charts in knit patterns are being used more and more as an addition to or in place of words to describe a pattern stitch. Following are the standardized knit symbols that are commonly used by members of the Craft Yarn Council, followed by two versions of cable symbols. There are a wide variety of knit symbols used in patterns, including special symbols made for specific projects. Always refer to the pattern key for variations in the knit symbols. For the most part each symbol represents a stitch as it looks on the right side of the work.

M

MR

ML

MP

2

K on RS, p on WS

P on RS, k on WS

Yarn over

K2tog on RS, p2tog on WS

P2tog on RS, k2tog on WS

SSK on RS, SSP on WS

SSP on RS, SSK on WS

K1fb on RS, p1fb on WS

Make 1 (M1) knitwise on RS, make 1 (M1) purlwise on WS

Make 1 (M1) purlwise on RS, make 1 (M1) knitwise on WS

Right-slanting make 1

Left-slanting make 1

Right-slanting lifted inc

Left-slanting lifted inc

Sl 1 purlwise wyb on RS, sl 1 purlwise wyf on WS

Sl 1 purlwise wyf on RS, sl 1 purlwise wyb on WS

K3tog on RS, p3tog on WS

P3tog on RS, k3tog on WSPage 1

Knit Chart SymbolsStitch charts in knit patterns are being used more and more as an addition to or in place of words to describe a pattern stitch. Following are the standardized knit symbols that are commonly used bymembers of the Craft Yarn Council, followed by two versions of cable symbols. There are a wide variety of knit symbols used in patterns, including special symbols made for speci�c projects. Always refer to the pattern key for variations in the knit symbols. For the most part each symbol represents a stitch as it looks on the right side of the work.


7

Knit Chart Symbols Continued

2

5

5

4

4

4

4

SK2P on RS, SSSK on RS, SSSP on WS

SSSP on RS, SSSK on WS

S2KP2 on RS, SSPP2 on WS

K1 tbl on RS, p1 tbl on WS

P1 tbl on RS, k1 tbl on WS

Bobble

Sts do not exist in these areas of chart

Inc 1-to-3

Inc 1-to-4

Inc 1-to-5

Dec 4-to-1 (right slanting)

Dec 4-to-1 (left slanting)

Dec 4-to-1 (centered)

Dec 5-to-1

K1, wrapping yarn twice around needle

Bind o�

St rem on right needle after last BO st

Cast on

Page 2

(CMYK 15%/15%/15%/15% shade)


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Cable SymbolsAs previously mentioned, there are many symbol variations, especially for cables. Below are two versions of cable symbols and definitions commonly used in the industry. Again, always refer to the pattern key for additional symbol variations.

1/1 RC (RT) - sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k1, k1 from cn OR k2tog but do not drop sts from left needle, k1, drop both sts from left needle1/1 LC (LT) - sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, k1, k1 from cn OR with right needle behind left needle, knit 2nd st tbl, knit �rst st, drop both sts from left needle

1/1 RPC - sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k1, p1 from cn

1/1 LPC - sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, p1, k1 from cn

2/1 RC - sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k2, k1 from cn

2/1 LC - sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, k1, k2 from cn

2/1 RPC - sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k2, p1 from cn

2/1 LPC - sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, p1, k2 from cn

2/2 RC - sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, k2 from cn

2/2 LC - sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, k2, k2 from cn

2/2 RPC - sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, p2 from cn

2/2 LPC - sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, p2, k2 from cn2/1/2 RPC - sl 2 sts onto first cn and hold in back, sl 1 st onto 2nd

cn and hold in back, k2, p1 from 2nd cn, k2 from first cn

2/1/2 LPC - sl 2 sts onto first cn and hold in front, sl 1 st onto 2nd cn and hold in back, k2, p1 from 2nd cn, k2 from first cn

Page 3

Cable SymbolsAs previously mentioned, there are many symbol variations, especially for cables. Below are two versions of cable symbols and de�nitions commonly used in the industry. Again, always refer to the pattern key for additional symbol variations.

Version 1


9

Cable Symbols Continued

2-st RC (RT) - Sl 1 st to cn and hold to back, k1, k1 from cn ORk2tog but do not drop sts from left needle, k1, drop both sts fromleft needle

2-st LC (LT) - Sl 1 st to cn and hold to front, k1, k1 from cn OR withright needle behind left needle, knit 2nd st tbl, knit first st, dropboth sts from left needle

2-st RPC - Sl 1 st to cn and hold to back, k1, p1 from cn

2-st LPC - Sl 1 st to cn and hold to front, p1, k1 from cn

3-st RC - Sl 1 st to cn and hold to back, k2, k1 from cn

3-st LC - Sl 2 sts to cn and hold to front, k1, k2 from cn

3-st RPC - Sl 1 st to cn, hold to back, k2, p1 from cn

3-st LPC - Sl 2 sts to cn, hold to front, p1, k2 from cn

4-st RC - Sl 2 sts to cn and hold to back, k2, k2 from cn

4-st LC - Sl 2 sts to cn and hold to front, k2, k2 from cn

4-st RPC - Sl 2 sts to cn and hold to back, k2, p2 from cn

4-st LPC - Sl 2 sts to cn and hold to front, p2, k2 from cn

5-st RPC - Sl 2 sts to cn, hold to back, sl 1 st to second cn, hold toback, k2, p1 from 2nd cn, k2 from first cn

5-st LPC - Sl 2 sts to cn, hold to front, sl 1 st to second cn, hold toback, k2, p1 from back cn, k2 from front cn

Page 4

NOTE: Some patterns refer to cables as "Back" or "Front" cross.

Version 2


10

Loom Knitting AbbreviationsFollowing is a list of loom knitting abbreviations commonly used by yarn industry designers and publishers. In addition, designers and publishers may use special abbreviations in a pattern, which you might not find on this list. Generally, a definition of special abbreviations is given at the beginning of a book or pattern.

Abbreviation Descriptionalt . . . . . . . . alternate approx. . . . approximately B to B. . . . . back to backB to F . . . . . back to frontbeg. . . . . . . beginning bet . . . . . . . between BO . . . . . . . bind off C2C . . . . . . center to centerCCO . . . . . . crochet cast onch . . . . . . . . chainCC. . . . . . . . contrasting color cn . . . . . . . . cable needle CO . . . . . . . cast on cont . . . . . . continue dec . . . . . . . decreaseDK . . . . . . . double knitDS. . . . . . . . double stitch: with 3 loops

on each peg, knit bottom loop over 2 top loops

EW . . . . . . . e-wrapEWK . . . . . . e-wrap and knitF to B . . . . . front to backFK . . . . . . . . flat knitfoll . . . . . . . followGBO . . . . . . gather bind offHS . . . . . . . half stitchinc . . . . . . . increaseK . . . . . . . . . true/traditional knit stitchkfb . . . . . . . knit 1 into front and back

of a stitch; 1 increase KO . . . . . . . knit off/overk2tog . . . . . knit 2 stitches together; single

right-leaning decreaseLTW . . . . . . left twistLH . . . . . . . left handlp . . . . . . . . loopm . . . . . . . . markerM1 . . . . . . . make one stitch M1L . . . . . . make one left; single left-

leaning knit increaseM1R . . . . . . make one right; single right-

leaning knit increase

Abbreviation DescriptionMC . . . . . . . main color p . . . . . . . . . purl stitchpat or patt . . . patternpfb . . . . . . . purl into the front and back

of a stitch; single increasepm . . . . . . . place markerp2tog . . . . . purl 2 stitches together; single

left-leaning decreaseprev . . . . . . previouspsso . . . . . . pass slipped stitch overpu. . . . . . . . pick uprem . . . . . . remainingrep . . . . . . . repeatrev St st . . . reverse stockinette stitchRH . . . . . . . right handrnd . . . . . . . roundsRS. . . . . . . . right sideRTW . . . . . . right twistsel . . . . . . . selvagesl. . . . . . . . . slipsl st . . . . . . slip stitchssk . . . . . . . slip 2 stitches knitwise, knit these

2 stitches together through back loops; single left-leaning decrease

st . . . . . . . . stitchSt st . . . . . . stockinette stitchtog . . . . . . . togetherUK . . . . . . . u-wrap knitW&T . . . . . . wrap and turnWS . . . . . . . wrong sidewy . . . . . . . working yarnwyib. . . . . . with yarn in backwyif . . . . . . with yarn in frontybk. . . . . . . yarn backyfwd or yfd. . . . yarn forwardyo . . . . . . . . yarn overyrp . . . . . . . yarn round peg


11

How to Measure Wraps Per Inch (WPI)

Wraps per inch is commonly used by weavers, but it can be helpful for all yarn users to identify the weight of yarn if its label is missing.

To measure yarn in wraps per inch (or WPI) you need a ruler, and something to wrap the yarn around that has a consistent circumference, like a pencil.

Begin by wrapping your yarn around the pencil for a few inches. The yarn should be snug, and the wraps should lay side by side without any over lapping, or large gaps between strands. Don’t pull the yarn too tightly to avoid skewing the measurements. If you’re unsure of your tension, practice with a yarn that you know the weight of.

Once the yarn is wrapped, use the ruler to measure how many wraps are in an inch. Measure a few places as you would a gauge swatch. Use the chart provided to compare your WPI number to the weight category to determine the weight of your yarn, and what hook or needle to use to reach a standard size gauge.

Keep in mind that WPI is subjective, and results will vary depending on how tightly the yarn is wrapped. Always work up a gauge swatch before starting a project.

Wraps Per Inch (WPI) by yarn weightCYC weight WPI0 Lace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30-40+1 Super Fine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14-302 Fine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12-183 Light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11-154 Medium . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9-125 Bulky . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-96 Super Bulky . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-67 Jumbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-4

This chart is based on WPI information shared by industry experts and the two WPI lists noted below.

http://woolery.com/yarns/help-with-yarn-sizes/wraps-per-inch.html

http://www.ravelry.com/help/yarn/weights


12

1Basic / De base / Básico

Projects using basic stitches. May include basic increases and decreases.

2Easy / Facile / Fácil

Projects may include simple stitch patterns, color work, and/or shaping.

3Intermediate / Intermédiaire / Intermedio

Projects may include involved stitch patterns, color work, and/or shaping.

4Complex / Complexe / Complejo

Projects may include complex stitch patterns, color work, and or/shaping using a variety of techniques and stitches simultaneously.

This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are available at: YarnStandards.com

Project Levels — Knit and CrochetMany crochet and knit projects will include symbols to assist people in determining the techniques that might be included in pattern instructions. Following is the general explanation for Basic, Easy, Intermediate or Complex project levels.


13

Standard Body Measurements/SizingTo ensure that a finished garment will fit properly, it is important to take the following body measurements, so that you can determine what size you should make. It is always better to have someone else do the measuring. If that is not an option, you can measure a garment that fits you the way you want, and use these measurements as a guide. Most crochet and knitting pattern instructions will provide general sizing information, such as the chest or bust measurements of a completed garment. Many patterns also include detailed schematics or line drawings. These drawings show specific garment measurements (bust/chest, neckline, back, waist, sleeve length, etc.) in all the different pattern sizes. (See more about Schematics p. 26) To insure proper fit, always review all of the sizing information provided in a pattern before you begin.

Following are several sizing charts. These charts show Chest, Center Back Neck-to-Cuff, Back Waist Length, Cross Back, Sleeve Length, Upper Arm, Armhole Depth, Waist and Hip. THESE ARE ACTUAL BODY MEASUREMENTS FOR BABIES, CHILDREN, WOMEN, and MEN in both inches and centimeters.

Length ChartBack Waist Length Hip Length Tunic Length

Child Actual body measurement 2"/5cm down from waist 6"/15cm down from waistWoman Actual body measurement 6"/15cm down from waist 11"/28cm down from waistMen Men’s length usually varies only 1–2"/2.5–5cm from the actual “back hip length” measurement (see Man Size Chart, p 18)

Bust/Chest Fit and Ease ChartVery close fitting, negative ease:

Very tight fit, smaller than your actual bust/chest measurement. Approximately 2" to 4” (5 to 10cm) less than your actual bust/chest measurement

Close fitting, zero ease:

Body skimming, your actual bust/chest measurement .

Classic fit, some positive ease:

Comfortable fit slightly larger than actual bust/chest measurement. Approximately 2" to 4” (5 to 10cm) more than your actual bust/chest measurement

Loose fit, more positive ease:

Slightly oversized fit, larger than your actual bust/chest measurement. Approximately 4" to 6” (10 to 15cm) more than your actual bust/chest measurement

Oversized, generous positive ease:

Very loose fit, much larger than your actual bust/chest measurement. Approximately 6+” (15+cm) more than your actual bust/chest measurement

The Length Chart provides average lengths for children’s, women’s and men’s garments.

When sizing sweaters, the fit is based on actual chest/bust measurements, plus ease (additional inches or centimeters), sometimes referred to as "negative ease" (less than the actual bust/chest measurement) or "positive ease" (more than the actual bust/chest measurement). The chart entitled “Bust/Chest Fit and Ease Chart” recommends the amount of ease to add or subtract to bust/chest measurements if you prefer a close-fitting garment, an oversized garment, or something in-between.

Both the FIT and LENGTH charts are simply guidelines. For individual body differences, changes can be made in body and sleeve lengths when appropriate. However, consideration must be given to the project pattern. Certain sizing changes may alter the appearance of a garment.


14

How to Measure1. Chest/Bust —Measure around the fullest part of the chest/bust. Do not draw the tape too tightly.

2. Center Back Neck–to-Wrist—With arm straight, measure from back base of neck, across shoulder, and along arm to wrist.

3. Back Waist Length—Measure from the most prominent bone at base of neck to the natural waistline.

4. Cross Back—Measure from shoulder to shoulder.

5. Arm Length—With arm slightly bent, measure from armpit to wrist.

6. Upper Arm—Measure around the widest section of the upper arm located above the elbow.

7. Armhole Depth—Measure from the top outside edge of the shoulder down to the armpit.

8. Waist—Measure your waist at the smaller circumference of your natural waist, usually just above the belly button.

9. Hip—Measure at the widest part of your lower hip.

10. Head Circumference—For an accurate head measure, place a tape measure across the forehead and measure around the full circumference of the head. Keep the tape snug for accurate results.

11. Sock Measurements—The following measurements are for crew-style or dress socks, which usually come several inches above the ankle and below the calf.

11a. Foot Circumference—To determine the foot circumference, measure around the widest part of your foot.

11b. Sock Height—To determine the height of the sock, measure from where you start to turn for the heel shaping to the top of the sock.

11c. Total Foot Length—To measure the total length of your foot, place a ruler or tape measure on the floor. Position the back of your heel at the

beginning of the tape and the measure to your longest toe.

12a. Hand Circumference—Measure around the palm of your dominate hand, which is usually just below the knuckles. Exclude the thumb.

12b. Wrist Circumference—Measure around the widest part of the wrist.

12c. Hand Length—Measure from the wrist to the the base of the hand to the tip of the middle finger or to the top of the longest finger.

12c

12a

12b


15

3 mo 6 mo 12 mo 18 mo 24 mo1. Chest (in.) 16 17 18 19 20

(cm.) 40.5 43 45.5 48 50.52. Center Back 101⁄2 111⁄2 121⁄2 14 18

Neck-to-Wrist 26.5 29 31.5 35.5 45.53. Back Waist 6 7 71⁄2 8 81⁄2

Length 15.5 17.5 19 20.5 21.5 4. Cross Back 71⁄4 73⁄4 81⁄4 81⁄2 83⁄4

(Shoulder to 18.5 19.5 21 21.5 22 shoulder)

5. Arm Length 6 61⁄2 71⁄2 8 81⁄2 to Underarm 15.5 16.5 19 20.5 21.5

6. Upper arm 51⁄2 6 61⁄2 7 71⁄2 14 15.5 16.5 17.5 19

7. Armhole depth 31⁄4 31⁄2 33⁄4 4 41⁄4 8.5 9 9.5 10 10.5

8 . Waist 18 19 20 201⁄2 21 45.5 48 50.5 52 53.5

9 . Hips 19 20 20 21 22 48 50.5 50.5 53.5 56

Size 2 4 6 8 101. Chest (in.) 21 23 25 261⁄2 28

(cm.) 53 58.5 63.5 67 712. Center Back 18 191⁄2 201⁄2 22 24

Neck-to-Wrist 45.5 49.5 52 56 613. Back Waist 81⁄2 91⁄2 101⁄2 121⁄2 14

Length 21.5 24 26.5 31.5 35.54. Cross Back 91⁄4 93⁄4 101⁄4 103⁄4 111⁄4

(Shoulder to 23.5 25 26 27 28.5 shoulder)

5. Arm Length 81⁄2 101⁄2 111⁄2 121⁄2 131⁄2 to Underarm 21.5 26.5 29 31.5 34.5

6. Upperarm 7 71⁄2 8 81⁄2 83⁄4 17.5 19 20.5 21.5 22

7. Armhole depth 41⁄4 43⁄4 5 51⁄2 6 10.5 12 12.5 14 15.5

8 . Waist 21 211⁄2 22½ 231⁄2 241⁄2 53.5 54.5 57 59.5 62

9 . Hips 22 231⁄2 25 28 291⁄2 56 59.5 63.5 71 75

U.S. Size ChartsBaby

Child

Actual Body Measurements


16

Size 12 14 16 1. Chest (in.) 30 311⁄2 321⁄2

(cm.) 76 80 82.52. Center Back 26 27 28

Neck-to-Wrist 66 68.5 713. Back Waist 15 151⁄2 16

Length 38 39.5 40.54. Cross Back 12 121⁄4 13

(Shoulder to 30.5 31 33 Shoulder)

5. Arm Length 15 16 161⁄2 to Underarm 38 40.5 42

6. Upper arm 9 91⁄4 91⁄2 23 23.5 24

7. Armhole depth 61⁄2 7 71⁄2 16.5 17.5 19

8 . Waist 25 26½ 271⁄2 63.5 67.5 69.5

9 . Hips 311⁄2 33 351⁄2 80 83.5 90

Youth


17

Woman

Size cont. 2X 3X 4X 5X1. Bust (in.) 48–50 52–54 56–58 60–62

(cm.) 122–127 132–137 142–147 152–1582. Center Back 30–301 ⁄2 301 ⁄2–31 311 ⁄2–32 311 ⁄2–32

Neck-to-Wrist 76.5–77.5 77.5–79 80–81.5 80–81.53. Back Waist 18 18 181 ⁄2 181 ⁄2

Length 45.5 45.5 47 474. Cross Back 18 18 181 ⁄2 181 ⁄2

(Shoulder to 45.5 45.5 47 47 Shoulder)

5. Arm Length 18 18 181 ⁄2 181 ⁄2 to Underarm 45.5 45.5 47 47

6. Upper arm 151 ⁄2 17 181 ⁄2 191 ⁄2 39.5 43 47 49.5

7. Armhole 81 ⁄2–9 9–91 ⁄2 91 ⁄2–10 10–101 ⁄2 depth 21.5–23 23–24 24–25.5 25.5–26.5

8. Waist 40–42 44–45 46–47 49–50 101.5–106.5 111.5–114 116.5–119 124–127

9. Hips 52–53 54–55 56–57 61–62 132–134.5 137–139.5 142–144.5 155–157

Size X-Small Small Medium Large X-Large1. Bust (in.) 28–30 32–34 36–38 40–42 44–46

(cm.) 71–76 81–86 91.5–96.5 101.5–106.5 111.5–1172. Center Back 26–261⁄2 27–271⁄2 28–281⁄2 29–291⁄2 29–291 ⁄2

Neck-to-Wrist 66–68.5 68.5–70 71–72.5 73.5–75 73.5–753. Back Waist 161⁄2 17 171⁄4 171⁄2 173 ⁄4

Length 42 43 43.5 44.5 454. Cross Back 14–141⁄2 141⁄2–15 151⁄2–16 161⁄2–17 171 ⁄2

(Shoulder to 35.5–37 37–38 39.5–40.5 42–43 44.5 Shoulder)

5. Arm Length 161⁄2 17 17 171⁄2 171 ⁄2 to Underarm 42 43 43 44.5 44.5

6. Upper arm 93⁄4 101⁄4 11 12 131 ⁄2 25 26 28 30.5 34.5

7. Armhole 6–61⁄2 61⁄2–7 7–71⁄2 71⁄2–8 8–81 ⁄2 depth 15.5–16.5 16.5–17.5 17.5–19 19–20.5 20.5–21.5

8. Waist 23–24 25–261⁄2 28–30 32–34 36–38 58.5–61 63.5–67.5 71–76 81.5–86.5 91.5–96.5

9. Hips 33–34 35–36 38–40 42–44 46–48 83.5–86 89–91.5 96.5–101.5 106.5–111.5 116.5–122


18

Man Size Small Medium Large X-Large 1. Chest (in.) 34–36 38–40 42–44 46–48

(cm.) 86–91.5 96.5–101.5 106.5–111.5 116.5–122 2. Center Back 32–321⁄2 33–331⁄2 34–341⁄2 35–351⁄2

Neck-to-Wrist 81–82.5 83.5–85 86.5–87.5 89–90 3. Back Hip 23–24 25-26 26-27 28

Length 58.5–61 63.5-66 66-68.5 71 4. Cross Back 151⁄2–16 161⁄2–17 171⁄2–18 18–181⁄2

(Shoulder to 39.5–40.5 42–43 44.5–45.5 45.5–47 Shoulder)

5. Arm Length 18 181⁄2 191⁄2 20 to Underarm 45.5 47 49.5 50.5

6. Upper arm 12 13 15 151⁄2 30.5 33 38 39.5

7. Armhole 8½–9 9–91⁄2 91⁄2–10 10–101⁄2 depth 21.5–23 23–24 24–25.5 25.5–26

8. Waist 28–30 32–34 36–38 42–44 71–76 81.5–86.5 91.5–96.5 106.5–112

9. Hips 35–37 39–41 43–45 47–49 89–94 99–104 109–114 119–124.5

Size cont. 2X 3X 4X 5X 1. Chest (in.) 50–52 54–56 58–60 62–64

(cm.) 127–132 137–142 147.5–152 157.5–162.5 2. Center Back 36–361⁄2 37–371⁄2 38–381⁄2 39–391⁄2

Neck-to-Wrist 91.5–92.5 94–95 96.5–97.5 99–100.5 3. Back Hip 29 30 30 31

Length 73.5 76 76 79 4. Cross Back 19–20 20–21 21–211⁄2 22–221⁄2

(Shoulder to 48–51 48–51 51–54.5 56–57 Shoulder)

5. Arm Length 201⁄2 201⁄2 21 211⁄2 to Underarm 52 52 49.5 53.5–54.5

6. Upper arm 161⁄2 171⁄2 181⁄2 20 42 44.5 47 48

7. Armhole 11 111⁄2 12 121⁄2 depth 28 29 30.5 32

8 . Waist 46–48 50–52 54–56 58–60 117–122 127–132 137–142 147.5–152.5

9. Hips 51–53 54–56 56–58 58–60 129–134 137–142 142–147.5 147.5–152.5


19

Head

Head Circumference Chart Infant/Child Adult Preemie Baby Toddler Child Tween Woman Man6. Circumference

(in.) 9–12 14–16 16–18 18–20 20–22 21–23 22–24 (cm.) 23–30.5 35.5–40.5 40.5–46 45.5–51 51–56 53–58.5 56–61


20

Foot Baby, Child & Youth Shoe Size Chart*(U.S. Sizes) 0–4 5–9 10–13* 1–3 4–6 (Baby) (Toddler) (Child) (Youth) (Youth) Ages 6–18 mo. 2–3 y. 4–5 y. 6–9 y. 10–13 y.11a. Foot Circum. (in.) 4 1⁄2 5 1⁄2 6 6 1⁄2 7

(cm) 11 14 15.5 16.5 17.511b. Sock Height 21⁄2 31⁄2 41⁄2 51⁄2 61⁄2

6.5 9 11.5 14 16.511c. Total Foot Length 3–41⁄2 43 ⁄4–6 61 ⁄2–71 ⁄2 73 ⁄4–81 ⁄2 83 ⁄4–91 ⁄2

7.75–11.5 12–15.25 16.5–19 19.75–21.5 22.25–24 * Baby/Toddler/Child sizes go from 0 -13; Youth sizes: 1Y - 6Y.

Woman Shoe Size Chart(U.S. Sizes) 4–61⁄2 7–91⁄2 10–121⁄2

11a. Foot Circum. (in.) 7 8 9 (cm) 17.5 20.5 23

11b. Sock Height 61⁄2 7 71⁄2 6.5 17.5 19

11c. Total Foot Length 8–9 91 ⁄4–10 101 ⁄4–11 20.25–23 23.5–25.5 26–28

Man Shoe Size Chart(U.S. Sizes) 6–81⁄2 9–111⁄2 12–14

11a. Foot Circum. (in.) 8 9 10 (cm) 20.5 23 25.5

11b. Sock Height 71⁄2 8 81⁄2

19 20.5 21.511c. Total Foot Length 91⁄4–10 101⁄4–11 111⁄4–12

23.5–25.5 26–28 28.5–30.5


21

Hand Child Size Chart Age 2-4 y. 4-6 y. 6-8 y. Hand circumference (in.) 5 6 61⁄2

(cm) 13 15 16.5Hand length 4 43 ⁄4 51 ⁄4

10 12 13..5

Woman’s Size Chart Small Medium Large

Hand circumference (in.) 7 71 ⁄2 8 (cm) 18 19 20.5

Hand length 6 61 ⁄2 71 ⁄2 16 16.5 19

Man’s Size Chart Small Medium Large

Hand circumference (in.) 8 81 ⁄2 9 (cm) 20.5 21.5 23.5

Hand length 71⁄2 73 ⁄4 81 ⁄2 19 20 21 .5


22

Standard Yarn Weight System

Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes Yarn Weight Symbol & Category Names

Type of Yarns in Category

Lace,10 countcrochet thread

Sock, Fingering,

Baby

Sport, Baby

DK, Light

Worsted

Worsted, Afghan,

Aran

Chunky, Craft, Rug

Bulky, Roving

Jumbo, Roving

Knit Gauge Range* in Stockinette Stitch to 4 inches / 10 cm

33–40** sts

27–32 sts

23–26 sts

21–24 sts

16–20 sts

12–15 sts

7–11 sts

6 sts and

fewer

Recommended Needle in Metric Size Range

1.5–2.25mm

2.25–3.25mm

3.25–3.75mm

3.75–4.5mm

4.5–5.5mm

5.5–8 mm

8–12.75mm

12 .75 mm and

larger

Recommended Needle U.S. Size Range

000 to 1 1 to 3 3 to 5 5 to 7 7 to 9 9 to 11 11 to 1717

andlarger

Crochet Gauge Range* in Single Crochet to 4 inches / 10 cm

32–42 double

crochets**

21–32 sts

16–20 sts

12–17 sts

11–14 sts

8–11 sts

7–9 sts

6 sts and

fewer

Recommended Hook in Metric Size Range

Steel***1.6–1.4 mmRegular hook

2 .25 mm

2.25–3.25mm

3.5–4.5mm

4.5–5.5mm 5.5–6.5mm 6.5–9

mm9–15mm

15 mm and

larger

Recommended Hook U.S. Size Range

Steel*** 6, 7, 8

Regularhook B–1

B–1 to E–4 E–4 to 7 7 to I–9I–9 to

K–10 1⁄2

K–10 1⁄2 to M-13

M-13 to Q

Qand

larger

* GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.

** Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow the gauge stated in your pattern.

*** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse of regular hook sizing (p. 27).



23

Système standard de grosseur

Les catégories de fils, les gammes de tension et les tailles d'aiguilles ou de crochets recommendées.

Nouvelle catégorie de noms

Dentelle Superfin Fin Léger Moyen Bulky Trés Épais Géant

Sortes de fils par catégorie

fil àcrocheter

#10

Bas,Fingering,

Bébé

Sport,Bébé

DK,Léger

Worsted

Worsted,Afghan,

Aran

Chunky,Artisanat,

Tapis

Bulky, Roving

GéantRoving

Gamme de tension au tricot* en point jersey sur 4 pouces / 10 cm

33 à 40** mailles

27 à 32 mailles

23 à 26 mailles

21 à 24 mailles

16 à 20 mailles

12 à 15 mailles

7 à 11 mailles

6 mailles et moins

Tailles d'aiguilles recommandées en métrique

1.5 à 2.25mm

2.25 à 3.25mm

3.25 à 3.75mm

3.75 à 4.5mm

4.5 à 5.5mm

5.5 à 8 mm

8 à 12.75mm

12 .75 mm et plus grand

Tailles d'aiguilles recommandées américaines

000 à 1 1 à 3 3 à 5 5 à 7 7 à 9 9 à 11 11 à 17 17 et plus grand

Gamme de tension au crochet* en mailles serrées sur 4 pouces / 10 cm

32 à 42 bride**

21 à 32 mailles

16 à 20 mailles

12 à 17 mailles

11 à 14 mailles

8 à 11 mailles

7 à 9 mailles

6 mailles et moins

Tailles de crochets recommandées en métrique

Acier ***1.6 à 1.4 mm

Crochet ré gulier 2 .25 mm

2.25 à 3.25mm

3.5 à 4.5mm

4.5 à 5.5mm 5.5 à 6.5mm 6.5 à 9

mm9 à 15mm

15 mm et plus grand

Tailles de crochets recommandées américaines

Acier *** 6, 7, 8

Crochet ré gulier B–1

B–1 à E–4 E–4 à 7 7 à I–9I–9 à

K–10 1⁄2

K–10 1⁄2 à M-13

M-13 à Q

Q et plus grand

* LIGNES DIRECTRICES: Les informations incluses représentent les tensions qui sont les plus couramment utilisées, et les grosseurs de crochet et d'aiguille, pour des catégories de fils spécifiques.

** Les fils de poids dentelles sont généralement utilisés pour le tricot ou le crochet, avec de grosses aiguilles ou crochets, pour créer des motifs en dentelle ajourés; comme le niveau de tension est difficile à déterminer, il faut respecter la tension inscrite sur votre patron.

*** Les crochets en acier, n'ont pas les mêmes grosseurs que les crochets habituels et sont classés différemment – plus le numéro est élevé, plus petit sera le crochet, contrairement au classement des crochets habituels (p. 27).


24

Sistema de Peso Estandar para Estambre

Numeros y Nombres

Nouvelle catégorie de noms

Liston Superfino Fino Ligero Medio Abultado Super

Abultado Jumbo

Tipos de Estambres Actuales dentro de la Categoria

ListonEstambre delgado,Crochet calibre 10

Calcetin,Digitación,

Bebe

Deporte,Bebe

Doble tejidode punto, Tejido deestambre

ligero

Estambre

Fornido,Grueso,

Manualidad,Alfombra

Abultado, JumboRoving

Rango del Calibre* del Punto en Tela de Punto de 4 Pulgadas / 10cm

33 a 40** sts

27 a 32 sts

23 a 26 sts

21 a 24 sts

16 a 20 sts

12 a 15 sts

7 a 11 sts

6 sts y menos

AgujaRecomendada en el Rango de Tamaño Metrico

1 .5 a 2 .25mm

2 .25 a 3 .25mm

3 .25 a 3 .75mm

3 .75 a 4 .5mm

4 .5 a 5 .5mm

5 .5 a 8 mm

8 a 12 .75mm

12 .75 mm y mas

Aguja Recomendada en el Rango de Tamaño para E.U.

000 a 1 1 a 3 3 a 5 5 a 7 7 a 9 9 a 11 11 a 17 17 y mas

Calibre de Crochet* en Crochet Sencillo de 4 Pulgadas /10 cm

32 a 42 punto alto**

21 a 32 sts

16 a 20 sts

12 a 17 sts

11 a 14 sts

8 a 11 sts

7 a 9 sts

6 sts y menos

Gancho Recomendado en el Rango de Tamano Metrico

Acero ***1 .6 a 1 .4 mm

Gancho normal 2 .25 mm

2 .25 a 3 .25mm

3 .5 a 4 .5mm

4 .5 a 5 .5mm 5 .5 a 6 .5mm 6 .5 a 9

mm9 a 15mm

15 mm y mas

Gancho Recomendado en el Rango de Tamano para E.U.

Acero *** 6, 7, 8

Gancho normal B–1

B–1 a E–4 E–4 a 7 7 a I–9I–9 a

K–10 1⁄2

K–10 1⁄2 a M-13

M-13 a Q

Q y mas

* GUÍA: La tensión o calibre del punto, y el tamaño de las agujas y ganchos que se mencionan anteriormente, son los que se usan más frecuentemente dentro de cada categoría de hilo.

** Los hilos de peso "Listón" usualmente se tejen con agujas o ganchos más grandes para crear diseños abiertos, tipo encaje. Por lo tanto, es difícil determinar la tensión o calibre del punto. Siga siempre la tensión o calibre del punto que se indica en su patrón.

*** Los ganchos de acero se clasifican de manera distinta que los ganchos regulares – entre más alto el número, más pequeño es el gancho. Esto es al contrario de la manera usual de clasificar los ganchos (p. 27).


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Hand Knitting and Crocheting

The HAND symbol, added to the Standards and Guidelines in Q4 2018, can be used to represent gauge for yarns that do not require hooks and/or knitting needles, including, but not limited to, loop yarns and arm/hand knitting and crocheting yarns. This symbol can also be used on patterns to note that tools are not needed to complete the project.


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SchematicsA schematic is a visual rendering of a knit or crochet piece. Relevant measurements are indicated on the schematic.

A schematic provides the knitter or crocheter with

• an overview of the size and shape of the piece

• a point of reference for determining the fit of a garment

• a template for use in modifying the size of the piece

It’s important to review the schematic before embarking on a project. Using the shape and measurements of the schematic, you can determine whether changes are needed to achieve your desired fit.

An easy way to determine whether modifications to the pattern are needed is to compare the measurements of an existing, well-fitting garment to the measurements shown in the schematic.

Example:


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Hooks & NeedlesAs a result of innovation, yarn trends and globalization, the variety of hook and needle sizes and the materials with which they are made has grown over the years. U.S. needle and hook manufacturers continue to use both numbers and/or letters as well as metric sizing (millimeter/mm) on hook and needle packaging. Because letter and number sizing vary from company to company, rely on the package millimeter (mm) sizing, which is an accurate measurement.

Regardless of the number, letter or millimeter sizing, always complete a gauge swatch and compare it to the pattern gauge information. If your swatch is larger than the pattern gauge, redo a swatch using a smaller hook or needle. Conversely, if your gauge swatch it too small, redo it using a larger hook or needle to obtain the gauge indicated in the pattern.

Millimeter Range U.S. Size Range 1 .50 mm 0001 .75 mm 002 mm 0 2 .25 mm 12 .75 mm 23 mm3 .125 mm 33 .25 mm 33 .50 mm 43 .75 mm 54 mm 64 .25 mm 64 .50 mm 75 mm 85 .25 mm 95 .50 mm 95 .75 mm 106 mm 106 .50 mm 10 ½7 mm8 mm 119 mm 1310 mm 1512 .50 mm 1712 .75 mm 1715 mm 1919 mm 3525 mm 5035 mm 70

Millimeter Range U.S. Size Range 2.25 mm B-12 .50 mm2 .75 mm C-23 .125 mm D3 .25 mm D-33 .50 mm E-43 .75 mm F-54 mm G-64.25 mm G4 .50 mm 75 mm H-85 .25 mm I5 .50 mm I-95 .75 mm J6 mm J-106.50 mm K-10 ½7 mm 8 mm L-119 mm M/N-1310 mm N/P-1511 .50 mm P-1612 mm15 mm P/Q15 .75 mm Q16 mm Q19 mm S25 mm T/U/X30 mm T/X

Crochet Hook SizesKnitting Needle Sizes


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Steel crochet hooks are generally used with crochet threads and lace-weight yarns. They are sized differently than regular hooks: the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse of regular hook sizing. Crochet thread is similarly sized: the smaller the number, the thicker the thread.

As with regular crochet hooks, there are variations in steel crochet hooks numbering. Regardless of the number or millimeter sizing, always complete a gauge swatch and compare it to the pattern gauge information.

The most common crochet threads are sizes 3, 5, 10, 20, and 30, though they are available in increments of 10 up to size 100, which is the finest.

.

Millimeter Range U.S. Size Range 3 .50 mm 003 .25 mm 02 .75 mm 12 .70 mm 002 .55 mm 02 .35 mm 12 .25 mm 22 .20 mm 22 .10 mm 32 mm 41 .90 mm 51 .80 mm 61.75 mm 4/01 .70 mm 51 .65 mm 71 .60 mm 61.50 mm 8/7/21.40 mm 9/81 .30 mm 101.25 mm 9/41 .15 mm 101 .10 mm 111 .05 mm 111 mm 12/60 .95 mm 130.90 mm 14/80 .85 mm 130.75 mm 14/100 .60 mm 12

Steel Crochet Hook & Crochet Thread Sizes


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Yarn Label InformationThe samples below are typical of how you can expect to see the yarn and project symbols in a pattern or on a yarn label.

Care SymbolsUniversal care symbols are being used to reduce language on yarn and clothing labels. These symbols indicate how best to care for an item that will be made from the yarn. When giving a hand knitted or crocheted item as a gift, it’s so helpful to include a label from a ball or skein of yarn used for the project so that the recipient will know how to care for the item.

Fortunately the international symbols adopted by the International Organization for Standards (ISO) from the International Association for Textile Care Labeling (referred to as Ginetex) and those developed by the American Society for Testing and Material (ASTM) are very similar, making it easier for consumers to understand no matter where the yarn comes from. However, there is one caveat: an international washing symbol will have suggested water temperature in Celsius scale, not Fahrenheit, while yarn from North America companies will list both.

There are five basic categories of symbols:

● Washing: a trapezoid-shaped tub with squiggly lines representing water

● Bleaching: a triangle

● Drying: a square

● Ironing: an iron

● Professional Textile Care: a circle

There is additional helpful care information accompanying each symbol. For instance, inside the washing symbol there might be a suggested water temperature or a hand dipping in the tub to indicate hand washing. If there is a BIG X through a symbol that means: Do Not Wash or Do Not Bleach!

Following is a list of symbols that most frequently appear on yarn labels. If you come across a different symbol, check out the ISO or ASTM websites.

SuppliesLoops & Threads® Snuggly Wuggly™ (141 g/5 oz; 408 m/446 yds)

Contrast A: 1 ball (01731 Cool Baby) Contrast B: 1 ball (01711 Silly Sprite) Contrast C: 1 ball (01186 Soft Lilac) Contrast D: 1 ball (01005 White)

Size U.S. E/4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge StuffingOptional: Rattle in plastic case approx 1¼” (3 cm) diameterDarning needleTapestry needle

Discover Crocheting in Rounds:Daisy Ring Rattle Toy

Craft Yarn Council invites you to Discover Knit & Crochet with a fun series of classes where you learn techniques by creating a project. You’ll have friendly, one-on-one help from our certified teachers and make new friends. To learn more about the Craft Yarn Council’s Discover Knit & Crochet Classes and for helpful tips and links, visit: www.cycdiscoverknitandcrochet.org.

Basic / De base / Básico

Easy / Facile / Fácil

Intermediate / Intermédiaire / Intermedio

Complex / Complexe / Complejo


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WASH

If dots or numbers are shown inside the "tub", they indicate water temperatures.

A P F

TumbleDryLow

TumbleDryLow

TumbleDryHigh

Do NotTumble

Dry

TumbleDry

Medium

CoolIron

HotIron

Do NotIron

WarmIron

AnySolvent

Petroleum Solvent

Only

Do NotDryclean

Any SolventExcept

Trichloroethylene

Non-Chlorine Bleach When

Needed

Do NotBleach

Bleach When

Needed

MachineWashCold

MachineWashWarm

HandWash

Do NotWash

MachineWashHot

BLEACHING

A P F

TumbleDryLow

TumbleDryLow

TumbleDryHigh

Do NotTumble

Dry

TumbleDry

Medium

CoolIron

HotIron

Do NotIron

WarmIron

AnySolvent

Petroleum Solvent

Only

Do NotDryclean

Any SolventExcept

Trichloroethylene


Needed

Do NotBleach

Bleach When

Needed

MachineWashCold

MachineWashWarm

HandWash

Do NotWash

MachineWashHot

DRYING

A P F

TumbleDryLow

TumbleDryLow

TumbleDryHigh

Do NotTumble

Dry

TumbleDry

Medium

CoolIron

HotIron

Do NotIron

WarmIron

AnySolvent

Petroleum Solvent

Only

Do NotDryclean

Any SolventExcept

Trichloroethylene


Needed

Do NotBleach

Bleach When

Needed

MachineWashCold

MachineWashWarm

HandWash

Do NotWash

MachineWashHot

IRONING

A P F

TumbleDryLow

TumbleDryLow

TumbleDryHigh

Do NotTumble

Dry

TumbleDry

Medium

CoolIron

HotIron

Do NotIron

WarmIron

AnySolvent

Petroleum Solvent

Only

Do NotDryclean

Any SolventExcept

Trichloroethylene


Needed

Do NotBleach

Bleach When

Needed

MachineWashCold

MachineWashWarm

HandWash

Do NotWash

MachineWashHot

PROFESSIONAL FABRIC CARE/DRY CLEANING

A P F

TumbleDryLow

TumbleDryLow

TumbleDryHigh

Do NotTumble

Dry

TumbleDry

Medium

CoolIron

HotIron

Do NotIron

WarmIron

AnySolvent

Petroleum Solvent

Only

Do NotDryclean

Any SolventExcept

Trichloroethylene


Needed

Do NotBleach

Bleach When

Needed

MachineWashCold

MachineWashWarm

HandWash

Do NotWash

MachineWashHot

Designer GuidelinesThe Craft Yarn Council has compiled the following helpful designer guidelines for aspiring designers who want to submit a project idea to a yarn company or magazine but don’t know where to begin. These guidelines do not replace those of individual companies. However, they represent the base standards which have been adopted by many members of the Council and industry publishers.

Before you submit your design ● Submit your design concept to one yarn company/magazine at a time. If your design is accepted the yarn company/magazine will expect it to be exclusive to them.

● Make sure you can execute the idea that you're proposing. For example, if you've never knit a top-down raglan cardigan, save that idea for another time when you have more experience. Stick to what you know.

● If you submit a design for a garment, you will most likely be asked to write the pattern in several sizes (this is known as "grading" a pattern), so you must have a working knowledge of garment construction and fit for a large range of sizes.

● In addition to an artistic sensibility, designing requires solid math skills, a knowledge of yarns and garment construction, and the ability to communicate. You must also be flexible enough to make any modifications required by the editors.

● Avoid design elements (such as very large pattern repeats) that will limit the size range.

● If designing for a print publication, think about how much space your pattern will take up in the magazine or book and edit your design, if necessary. Most publications have a limited amount of space allotted for patterns, so make sure your design isn't so complicated that it will require a large number of pages for the written instructions and/or charts.


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● Think about the user's experience when knitting or crocheting your pattern and keep things simple whenever possible. A complex stitch pattern together with complicated shaping may make stitching the garment a frustrating experience for the consumer (and require a lot of pattern support).

● Keep in mind that most publishers are looking for originality and you have a greater chance of having your submission selected if it's something the editors haven’t seen before. You don't have to create a stitch pattern from scratch (most designers use patterns from stitch dictionaries), but if you use a stitch pattern to create a long rectangle and put some fringe on it, there's a good chance the exact same thing has already been done by someone else (or many other people).

The Design Submission ● Your submission is a representation of who you are and how you work—a thoughtful, neat, and well-organized submission will leave a better impression than one that looks as if it has been hastily thrown together.

● Generally, companies/magazines will ask you to submit a sketch and knitted/crocheted swatch. Do not send a completed project because there is no guarantee that it will be returned (however, photos of completed projects are fine).

● You can submit more than one design at a time, but make sure to label each swatch/sketch with your name, address, phone number, and e-mail.

● If the publication requires a physical submission (many are turning to email submissions), include a postage-paid envelope with your submission if you want it returned.

● Provide a written description for each project, including construction, technical, and decorative details; sketches or photos of the finished piece to show fit, silhouette, and style (you don't have to be a professional artist to sketch a design); and schematics for garments that show construction, proportion, and sizing.

● Also include some words about the yarn choice (i.e., “This top relies on an open stitch and a fluid, inelastic yarn to make the blouson waist drape properly. A linen or bamboo in worsted or lighter weight would be ideal”).

● The swatch should be large enough to give the editors an idea of what you intend the fabric to look like in the garment and the yarn should be appropriate to the design. Make sure that the swatch is blocked and the edges are even because it will give the editors an idea of how you will execute the finished sample.

● Your submission should not have been previously published (even on your blog), nor should it be submitted at the same time to other publications.

● Include a few words about yourself to give editors a feel for your sensibilities. This is especially important if you are a new designer.

● When submitting yarn swatch(es) with your idea or proposal to a yarn manufacturer, always use that company’s yarn(s).

The Submission Process ● The yarn company/magazine may post a submission call as early as 10 months before the publication is scheduled to go to press. Many yarn companies/magazines post their submission calls in the Designers group on Ravelry. Or you can contact the editors and ask to be added to their email list alerting you to submission calls.

● Editors will usually provide links to their storyboards to give you an idea of their themes for a particular issue.

● Generally, you can expect the submission review process to take between 2 to 8 weeks. The yarn company/magazine may (but won't always) confirm that they have received your submission and give you an approximate date when they will let you know if your design has been accepted.

● If there is a delay in getting back to you, the manufacturers or editors might be preparing for trade shows or rushing to meet a deadline.


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Refrain from continually calling/emailing about your submission.

● If your design idea is accepted, generally a design fee will be discussed in advance and a contract issued.

How a publication or yarn company processes submissions

● For each issue’s designs, the editor has to balance all kinds of details: types of projects, difficulty levels, seasonal and color trends, how different designs can be combined for stories, and so on. Yarn companies work on seasonal collections and have themes that they develop based on colors, yarn types, etc.

● Magazine editors may get many design submissions for each issue, and normally they can only use 16 to 20 projects per frequency issue. Sometimes great designs simply don’t fit into the concept for a given issue, and the editors may ask if they can hold a design for another issue. Generally, yarn companies will not hold a design for another season.

What happens after a design is accepted by a magazine

● The editor contacts each designer to propose contract terms. Once everybody has agreed to terms, the editor sends contracts out.

● The editor selects and orders yarn for each project, sent straight to the designer or a designated sample knitter. The editor sends out a pattern-writing style guide and/or template.

● Once you receive the yarn, you may have anywhere from 3 to 6 weeks to knit or crochet the garment and mail it in. Make sure to leave enough time to mail projects in order to arrive by the deadline.

● Designers knit or crochet samples and write patterns to be delivered by the deadline in the contract. They’re encouraged to contact the editor with any questions along the way. It's vital that designers make every effort to meet the agreed-upon deadline. If, through unforeseen circumstances (such as yarn getting delayed)

you’re going to have trouble meeting your deadline, contact the editor as soon as possible.

● Designers usually get paid after the editor accepts the sample and pattern. The patterns have to match the knitted sample and follow the publisher’s style guide and/or template. The knitted/crocheted samples have to be suitable for photography, made to the size stipulated in the contract and of high technical quality. (Models are hired based on the contracted sample size, and photographers take close-up detail shots. Knitting/crocheting and sizing errors can cause significant problems at the photo shoot.)

● Samples and patterns go through tech-editing. Many companies have in-house technical editors or have a relationship with freelance editors.*

● You don't have to have your pattern test-knitted /crocheted, though some designers choose to do so, anyway. Make sure you tell your testers not to post photos of the projects publicly until the pattern is published.

*NOTE: Yarn companies may work very differently from magazines. At some yarn companies, the designer may be responsible for getting the pattern tech-edited and may even be responsible for photography. These are all points that will be included in the contract terms.

Before you begin the project ● Reconfirm yarn and color selection with the editor or design director and check all ball bands to be sure they are all the same dye lot number.

● Reconfirm with the yarn manufacturer that the yarn you have chosen will be available for at least the next year. Most magazines and book publishers work six months in advance.

● Reconfirm the size of the sample garment required to fit the photography model.

● Keep notes as you work on your project so that you can refer to them when an editor has questions. Do not rely on your memory to write


33

the pattern after the project has been mailed to the company.

● Check the Standards & Guidelines measurements chart and size your project accordingly (www.yarnstandards.com/sizing.html).

● As you are working on your project submission, if you feel there is a problem with the yarn or yarn color, contact the manufacturer or editor and discuss your concern. If you have an alternative, suggest it.

The completed project ● Affix a label or hang tag to the inside back of your project with your name and contact information, including your address, phone number, e-mail address, and project number (if assigned).

● Projects must be clean, free of cat/dog hair, perfume or other scents and cigarette smoke.

● Proper finishing is critical. Weave in all yarn ends and pay attention to blocking. Remember, acrylic yarns should not be blocked with heat because it flattens the fibers. If you have questions about blocking a specific yarn, contact the company/publication.

● Return all skein bands/yarn labels from the various yarns you used to complete the project.

● Email the pattern at the same time that you send in the sample, unless you have made other arrangements with the editors.

● Indicate front/back or left/right (for socks and mittens) using a tag or other marker.

● Return shipping is the expense of the designer. Return all unused and used yarn.

● Complete your project (including the pattern) on time!

● Never make changes to a design or substitute yarn without consulting the editors in advance.

The pattern ● Project instructions must be submitted in an editable electronic file. Generally, a Word file is preferred, but always check with the editor. Remember to write your name and contact

information, plus project number (if assigned) on the first page of the instructions.

● Indicate the type of yarn used, put-up (skein/ball yardage and weight), fiber content, the number of skeins/balls required for each project size, and yarn amounts for each size.

● Indicate Yarn Weight Symbols using the Yarn Standards.

● If the yarn is used doubled, make sure to note this in the gauge as well as in the pattern.

● Include all needles used and note all needle or hook sizes in millimeter and U.S. sizes.

● List all materials required to complete the project (needle sizes, circular needle lengths, stitch markers, buttons [number and size], crochet hooks, tapestry needle), including necessary additional supplies and accessories such as beads, snaps, purse handles, etc., with specific sizes and quantities noted, and source information if possible, i.e., where a consumer most likely will find these items.

● Use standard abbreviations, punctuations, and pattern language whenever possible. If you use a technique that is not widely known, make sure to provide a definition and/or a good online reference.

● List all measurements including finished chest, back and armhole measurements for each size submitted in the case of garments and indicate which size was made. For accessories, list the finished dimensions of the project. Make sure the measurements match the gauge(s) given in the pattern.

● It is the designer’s job to write multiple sizes for a pattern, taking into account gauge, shaping and pattern repeats.

● Make sure the information in the pattern is as correct as possible. The tech editor's job is to check your pattern for accuracy and consistency, not to fill in missing information or correct multiple math errors.

● Use the Standards & Guidelines Project Level chart on page 12 to determine the difficulty level of the project.

● Provide stitch counts after every row/round that contains an increase or decrease.


34

● List the stitch patterns used (with multiples) before the actual garment instructions.

● Indicate pattern repeats on charts. Number chart rows.

● If a project, such as a cardigan, has sides that are mirror images of one another, write out complete shaping directions for both sides.

● Be sure to mention finishing details such as bind off or fasten off; sew up the side seams, or set in or sew sleeves in place. If the piece is assembled in an unusual way, provide sketches, a diagram or step-by-step photos to augment your written instructions.

● Create a schematic for each piece of the project/garment that shows the actual knitted/crocheted measurements of the individual pieces before seaming, with all relevant measurements. (Some companies don't require a schematic for accessories.) Schematic should include length measurements from cast-on row to underarm, depth of armholes, and sleeve length. Schematic should also include all major width/circumference measurements. If different parts are worked in different direction, arrows showing the direction of work are very helpful.

● If you don't have a computer program for drawing schematics, most companies will accept hand-drawn and scanned schematics.

● Use the recommended industry symbols to create charts for stitch or color (intarsia) patterns.

Sending an invoice ● An invoice should be submitted along with your completed project. Fees are generally negotiated when your design concept is first accepted by a manufacturer/magazine. On the invoice include an invoice number, your name, current address, phone number, e-mail address, social security number or tax id, name and number of design if you have one, and brief description of the project. Generally, companies require that a signed design agreement/contract must be included with the invoice.

The Craft Yarn Council is the yarn industry’s trade association. For more than 35 years, it has heightened consumer awareness of yarn crafts through education and promotion programs. Its membership represents the leading yarn companies, fiber producers, needle and hook manufacturers and publishers.

Craft Yarn Council 3740 N. Josey Lane, Suite 152 Carrollton, TX 75007

Tel: 972-325-7232

E-mail: [email protected]

Web sites: knitandcrochet.com learntoknit.com learntocrochet.com Knit911.com Crochet911.com craftyarncouncil.com ILoveYarnDay.org discoverknitandcrochet.org eachoneteachtwo.com


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