TECHNOLOGY APPAREL PRODUCTION

SPREADING (METHOD, MACHINE TYPE, SPREADING LOSSES & STANDARD)

Submitted by,Anuradha Patil

MFTechGandhinagar2012 - 2014

SPREADING

The process of rolling out layer after layer of cloth, smoothly without wrinkles, in such a manner that the selvedge on one side of the cloth is straight, and parallel to that edge of the cutting table.

It is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table, cutting table, or specially designed surface in preparation for cutting process.

Number of layers of fabric dictated by the number of garments desired and the fabric thickness

OBJECTIVES OF SPREADING PROCESS

 Understanding the process of fabric spreading

 Factors affecting spreading  Face and nap of the fabric

REQUIREMENTS OF SPREADING PROCESS

Shade sorting Correct ply direction and adequate lay

stability Alignment of plies Correct ply tension Elimination of fabric faults Elimination of static electricity

SPREADING MODES

CHOOSING SPREADING MODES

The choice of spreading mode often dictates certain methods of fabric handling and the choice of machinery used for spreading.

The availability of the proper spreading equipment may restrict the choices of spreading (and marker types) available for a particular facility

All spreading machines can Not spread all modes of spreading.

SPREADING MODE

The highest quality of spreading is achieved by the Face/ One/ Way, Nap/ One/ Way mode of spreading.

Each layer of fabric is spread with the face up (usually) permitting the spreader to see all of the face of the cloth to identify any flaws in the fabric.

METHODS OF SPREADING

Spreading by hand Spreading using a travelling machine

(100 to 150 yards per minute)

SPREADING BY HAND

  Time consuming method Require operator on each side of table But necessary for spreading some typical

fabrics, like Checked fabrics design. Fabrics with crosswise stripes. Fabrics with regular repeating patterns. Fabrics with a repeating design at intervals

of a garment length.

FABRICS PREFERRED FOR HAND SPREDING

•Knitted fabric•Crepe fabric•Stretchable fabric (spandex blend)•Checks•Stripes•Regularly repeating pattern etc.

SPREADING EQUIPMENTS

Spreading table Spreading machines Fabric control devices Fabric cutting devices

SPREADING TABLE

1.Spreading table surface must be level, smooth, even

2.Air floatation system as a conveyor

3.Pin/spike table for stripe matching

4.Splicing marks

MANUAL SPREADING

One operator at each side of table.

Fabric package supported on frame.

Operator aligns the plies manually

Ply cut with hand shears, circular knife etc.

Ideal for small-scale production

MANUAL SPREADING FRAMES

Fixed type A very basic fixed size manual spreading machine

Eastman PacemakerLight weight machine with fast pace

MANUAL SPREADING FRAMES

Expandable Basic•Spreading machine that is width size adjustable. •Has manual edge control.

Turn Table Spreading Machine

AUTOMATIC SPREADING TYPE

It can be categorized into two categories•Stationary spreaders : portable and

fixed Stationary spreaders remain in one position

on the table during the spreading process•Travelling spreaders : semi automatic

and automatic Travelling spreaders traverse the length of

the spread during the spreading process

SPREADING USING A TRAVELLING MACHINE

Spreading machines carry the piece of fabric from end to end of the spread, dispensing one ply at a time.

Components of spreading machine Frame or carriage Wheels travelling in guide rails at the

edge of the table Guide collars to aid the correct unrolling

of the fabric.

BASIC AUTOMATIC SPREADING MACHINE

A motor drives the carriage

A platform on which the operator rides

A ply cutting device with automatic catcher holding ends of ply in place

A ply counter Automatic sensing of flaws

AUTOMATED SPREADING MACHINES WITH SPECIAL FEATURES

•Single ply fabric feeder

•Tubular systems•Turntable spreader•Spreader synchronicmay

AUTOMATIC SPREADING MACHINES

FABRIC CONTROL DEVICES

These are those mechanisms that control fabric as it is carried up and down the table and unrolled by the spreading machine

These include--Tensioning control mechanisms-Positioning devices1. Edge sensor 2. Width indicator-End treatment devices 1. End catcher 2. Turn table

FABRIC CUTTING DEVICES

•Knife box contains a cutting unit

•Usually a small rotary knife

•It cuts across the fabric width when engaged

FABRIC CUTTING DEVICES MAY

SPREADING TABLE WIDTH

It can support 50-1000kg

PROBLEMS

Matching of checks and stripes in the garment production has always been difficult and time consuming.

Traditional methods tend to waste a lot of material, since the patterns are cut out with a blocking tolerance.

The task of rearranging the blocked out patterns is tedious and expensive.

The workers involved in this process have to be skilled.

PIN TABLE FOR CHECKS, STRIPS AND PATTERNS

SOLUTIONS The patented VEITH SYSTEM

PIN TABLE consists of a slotted aluminum top and Needle-Bars underneath.

Each Needle-Bar has pins positioned inside the slots of the table top.

The Needle-Bars can be moved freely along the length of the table. I.e. they can be positioned exactly according to the matching conditions of the marker.

The height of the pins can be adjusted with the turn of a hand-wheel. So the spreading and pinning is convenient, fast and avoids tension in the lay package.

Each pin can be individually locked down, i.e. only the needed quantity of pins have to be used.

Each pin has a rounded top, which avoids damages to the fabric, i.e. with our special pins we can pin the fabric inside the piece area and produce the quality, where it is needed, and not outside in the waste region

The PIN TABLE is an abstract copy of the marker

ADVANTAGES

Improve your quality. Spread and match in one step. Reduce your relaying operations. Have lower fabric consumption. Do the fine cutting after spreading

without relaying. Prepare your lay for CNC-Cutting

FABRIC LOSSES:

Spreading loss is the fabric loss outside the marker.

The various fabric losses outside the marker can be broadly classified into different groups, namely ends of ply losses, ends of piece losses, edge losses, splicing losses, remnant losses, ticket length losses

As the fabric is the major raw material in a garment, the saving of very less amount of fabric per garment can save quite a large sum of rupees per annum, which can increase the profit of the organisation substantially.

It is necessary for the management to have good understanding of the spreading performance and the distribution of various types of fabric losses in the cutting process for proper material management.

Proper investigation of the fabric losses during the cutting process can help the management to minimize material wastage.

ENDS OF PLY LOSSES

These losses may be up to 2 cm at each end or 4 cm per ply.

In case of some stable fabrics it may be less and for some unstable fabrics it may be more.

The ends of ply loss is 1-2% of the total fabric usage.

Higher is the fabric length the lesser is the loss.

EDGE LOSSES The usable fabric width depends upon the

quality of the selvedge, the consistency of fabric width, and also on the precision of edge control during spreading.

Let the fabric edge-to-edge width is 100 cm, and the marker width is 3 cm less than the fabric width.

The edge loss is 3%. If the fabric edge-to-edge width is 150 cm, the loss is 2%. Thus wider width fabrics have other benefits besides improved marker efficiency.

SPLICING LOSSES Splicing is the process of overlapping the cut

ends (the end of one length of fabric and the beginning of another) of two separate pieces of fabrics so that spreading can be continuous.

Splicing is necessary as one roll of fabric is finished and a new roll is taken into use.

The splicing losses may vary up to 5% of the total fabric usage.

These faults are removed by cutting the lay at the fault point and incorporating splicing position into marker plans

REMNANT LOSSES:

Remnant lengths are produced whenever companies separate different shades of fabric pieces and lay up only complete plies.

Remnants may also be generated when short lengths of material are left over after the completion of a lay, and are returned to the stores.

All remnants are put to one side and cut separately.

SPREADING QUALITY CONTROL

Poor spreading can cause many problems in the manufacturing process.

If the fabric is spread incorrectly, shading problems can occur.

If the fabric is stretched too tightly, it could cause pieces to be cut too small, and if the spread fabric leans, then the pieces could be cut improperly.

It is important to have well trained employees spreading the fabric so that these problems do not occur.

SPREADING STANDARDS

Alignments of the plies Every ply must comprise at least the length and width

of the marker. In addition it should have minimum possible extra outside those measurements. Because nature of fabric is such that fabric width varies piece to piece

Elimination of the Fabric Flaws Fabric flaws may be identifies by the supplier or by the

spreader. It must be eliminated by different methods. Correct Ply direction For fabrics designated both one way only and one way

either way, the spread should contain plies whose surface direction is compatible with the pattern facing of the marker.

Elimination of Static Electricity In spreading plies of fabric containing

man made fibres, friction may increase the static electricity in the fabric.

The spreader will experience in laying a ply neatly on top of the others due to either attraction or repulsion of those plies according to how they are charged.

Method to reduce static electricity: - increase the humidity of the

atmosphere in the cutting room

Avoidance of distortion in the spread 1. A layer of glazed paper, laid glazed upside

down, is normally placed at the bottom of the spread.

2. This helps to avoid disturbing the lowest plies on the material in the spread when the base plate of a straight knife passes underneath. Also gives stability to the lay if it is to be moved on a table.

Avoidance of Fusion during cutting Anti-fusion paper may be used in the same way as

interleaving. It contains a lubricant which lubricates the knife blade as it passes through the spread.

BRANDS

•Gerber - USA•Tuka - USA•Eastman - USA•Serkon-Turkey •Cosmotex-Spain•Saber -USA•Veith-Germany•Lectra-France•Oshima-Taiwan •Ramsons-India •Chin Chao –Taiwan

THANK YOU!!!!!