apparel industry report
TRANSCRIPT
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In-plant Training Report
Presentation
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Presented By
o G.Ambikavathi [ 05F004 ]
o S.Nithya [05F036 ]o N.P.Pradeepa [05F038 ]
o Raj Priya.M [05F041 ]
o C.Swasthika [05F055 ]
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IntroductionStallion Garments An ISO 9001:2000 certified company
Chairman and Managing director : K.A.S Thierumurthi and AM.
Karthikkeyan
Manufacturer and exporter of Knit and Woven readymade garments in all
kinds of fabrics
Sister Concerns: M/s. Statesman Fashions, M/s. K.A.T Garments, M/s.
Stallion Fashions
Branches: Production Unit and Dyeing Unit, Karumpalayam
Infrastructure: Entirely in-house and fully integrated facilities
http://www.stallionknits.com/quality.htmlhttp://www.stallionknits.com/quality.html -
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Market Distribution
Market Distribution
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Company Plan & Layout
1. Power room
2. Two wheelers
parking
3. Lab room
4. Accessories room
5. Gate
6. Security room
7. Toilet block
8. Compressor room
1 2
3 4 5
7 86
FactoryBuildingF
loorToilet
block
BoilerShed
AC Sheet Roof BuildingFeed Room
AC Sheet Roof BuildingConference Hall
AC Sheet Roof BuildingFinishing Section
AC Sheet Roof BuildingDining Hall & Rest
Room
1 2
3 4 5
7 86
FactoryBuildingF
loorToilet
block
BoilerShed
AC Sheet Roof BuildingFeed Room
AC Sheet Roof BuildingConference Hall
AC Sheet Roof BuildingFinishing Section
AC Sheet Roof BuildingDining Hall & Rest
Room
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Machinery Details Spreading Machine: Automatic
Company : Mehala Assyst Bullmer Compact D600
Cutting Machine: Band Knife Automatic
Company : Gurber
Spreading and cutting done in KVR Nagar , branch in Karumpalayam
Sewing Machines : Juki, Brother, Siruba, Pegasus
Packing Machine: Wedge pack
Needle detector
Fusing machine
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Apparel Production System
Laying/Cutting[KVR Nagar]
Tag forIdentification
Feed Section[Assortment of
bundled pieces
Allotment ofwork to each
floor (sewing)
Checking
Packing
FinalInspection
Bill Of Lading[Cost on
Freight]
Laying/Cutting[KVR Nagar]
Tag forIdentification
Feed Section[Assortment of
bundled pieces
Allotment ofwork to each
floor (sewing)
Checking
Packing
FinalInspection
Bill Of Lading[Cost on
Freight]
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Fabric Department
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Fabric Analysis:Fabric: All Feeder Lycra warp knitting m/c
Fiber Content: 95% Cotton 5% Lycra
Yarn Count: 40s Combed 20 Denier Lycra
Type of fabric produced : Dyed fabric
Width of fabric: 66 Open Width
Fabric Inspection System:
4 point system Fabric quality - number of defect points per 100yd.sq meter of fabric.
length/width of defects point values 40 points first quality
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Recommended Tests for fabric:
Shrinkage
Color Fastness
Wet Rub
Dry Rub
Spirality
Forms issued to cutting department:
Quality check report produced by Quality Inspector
Fabric department dispatches the required amount of fabric to the cutting
department
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Online Inspection System :
Grey stage [dyeing and production] and compacting stage
Fabric Defects:
Holes [ knitting ]Oil Marks [knitting ]
Stains [ dirt or dust forming a temporary defect ]
Color fly [ Mixing of a color thread during spinning ]
Neps [ rare occurrence; entanglement of fibers]
Report : Quality check report - Quality Inspector
Fabric Sourcing and Fabric center : External Sister concern of Stallion
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Pattern making and Sampling Department
N.P.Pradeepa [05F038]
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Software: Investronica Systems, LECTRA Company
Medium size pattern - manually positioned on digitizer
Drafted using optical mouse
Seam allowances given while preparing manual pattern or after pattern
making. Minimum of 1cm
Grading system : Computerized 2-dimensional and 3-dimensional
systems it in 2-D done in 2D effect obtained in 3D
The measurements are entered accurately and the graded pattern is
obtained.
Size Ranges : S, M, L, X, XL [ buyers requirement ]
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Sample Types :
Style Sample - acceptance from the buyer style & shape
Photo sample - appearance
Production Sample - exact one sent for direct production
Design Department :
Export orders - buyer specifies his requirements [style, design, method and
procedure]
Accordingly the company selects the type of machineries and arranges them as
required
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Cutting Department
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CuttingDepartmentLayout
Spreader m/c
Spreader m/c
Spreader m/c
Cutting Table
Fabric Stock
Fabric Stock
Fabric Stock
Fabric Stock
Fabric Stock
Waste
Stock
Numbering
Table
cut Pieces Bundlingarea
Liftroom 1 2 3 4 5 6
FabricRollStock
FabricDepartment
Fabric Manager ERP RoomCAD RoomCutting Manager Fabric AccountantStores
Spreader m/c
Spreader m/c
Spreader m/c
Cutting Table
Fabric Stock
Fabric Stock
Fabric Stock
Fabric Stock
Fabric Stock
Waste
Stock
Numbering
Table
cut Pieces Bundlingarea
Liftroom 1 2 3 4 5 6
FabricRollStock
FabricDepartment
Fabric Manager ERP RoomCAD RoomCutting Manager Fabric AccountantStores
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Cut order planning details :
Plan done prior to cutting
Specification - Order number ,Garment name
Cutting Received - Colors for various sizes and their quantity
I/P & O/P for cutting is mentioned
Pieces ready for packing is also mentioned
Marker Planning done in using the computerized systems as per the
garment patterns
Done in a most economic way
Efficiency : up to 90% can be achieved
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Method Of Cutting:
Automatic cutting machine GURBER cutting machine
Straight knife used
Band knife is being used for edging purposes
Assortment and Bundling :
Single color single size pieces bundled
Ticketed and sent Sewing Department
Transport : trolleys
Production Capacity:
Cutting machines capacity : 5 lakh
Companys Capacity :production of 1 lakh pieces
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Sewing Department
Raj Priya.M [05F041]
Porch
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LiftPorch
SewingSection
Checking
Stock SewingSection
Sewing Section
Checking
Sewing Section
Needle Detector
PackingSection
PackingTables
Iron Tables[8 in number]
StainRemov
er
Fire Exit Fire Exit
Exit Exit
Exit Exit
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Machinery Details
Over lock Machine
3 Thread Over lock - 4 Thread Over lock - 5 Thread Over lock
Flat lock Machine
2 Types of Bed
Circular Bed [ neck , sleeve ]
Flat Bed [ general purpose ]
Single Needle Flat lock
Double Needle Flat lock
2 Thread Over lock - 3 Thread Over lock - 5 Thread Over lock
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Singer Machine
Single Needle
Double Needle
Manufacturers: Germany make
Procedure for Sewing varies acc. to order
Machines equipped with wheels for order arrangements and
rearrangements
Special attachments deployed will be dealt later
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Process Analysis
Style :SLIM FIT T-SHIRT
Garment Segments
Front Panel 1
Back Panel 1
Sleeve 2
Neck Rib [same as fabric]
Cutting Procedure:
The front and back panels are being cut as per the measurements given in
the spec sheet. Sleeves are also being cut.
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Sleeve Hem3 Thread Flat lock
0.00.03.54
Sides Attachment Attachment of Wash Care Label along
4 Thread Over lock0.00.09.88
Bottom Hem Finishing3 Thread Flat Lock
0.00.16.10
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Type of Inspections
Sewing thread inspection
Ply of the yarn is checked usually 3 ply used in the industry 2 ply in rare cases
Operation Inspection
By Quality Assurance department placement of machines and online inspection
Protection EnsureNeedle guard
Safeguard labors from hazardous situations
Glass protecting in front of needle
Pulley Guard
Protective casing around the pulley
Ensures safety - Made of steel covering the belt
Measurement Inspection
Random inspection on any garment is done
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Final Inspection 12 seats in each line 3 floors
Checking table at end checking
Trims are being done
100% inspection of all garments
Material Handling:
Feeding section : Trolley
Manufacturing Unit: Utility Lifts 3 floors serves the purpose only
Sewing Section : Manual movement using Line Tables
Trolley Capacity: 2000 pieces
Service Table:
Sintex bins [bring cut pieces - cutting dept] - Feeding table [boxes as input for sewing]
No hanger system being followed
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Accessories
Sewing ThreadFiber Content - 3 ply polyester 150 Denier
Size - 5000mts cone
Special Finish - White Oil Finish - lubrication
Closures
Button:
Color - Dye to match [DTM] 2 hole
1 Gross = 144 buttons M/C = Rs.10 S/C : Rs.17
Zippers:
Types: Zipper Type ;Spring TypeMethod of Attachment: Visible and Invisible method
Size: As per the requirement of the customer/buyer
Make : China make & Hong Kong supply
M/C : Per inch = 40 paisa S/C = 60 paisa
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Interlining Material:
Specifications : M/C :Per yard = Rs.10 S/C = Rs.12Woven [sticky]Non-woven [non-sticky]
Micro Dot Foam [doesnt appear thick but has sufficient stiffness100% polyester]Labels :
Main LabelSize Label
Wash Care LabelTab Label [pocket side]Flag Label [sides of the garment]
Other Accessories used in Industry:Laces ,Satin ribbons ,Satin elastic, Ready-made piping, Badge [woven],
leather badges, All over embroidery/chest printing, etc.
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Standard Testing For Fabric & Garments
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Machinery
1. Electronic crock-o-meter
Test :colorfastness to crocking
Size of the Test Specimen: 20cm*5cm
Procedure - Rating:
Color staining of wet and dry rub assessed - grey scale ISO 105-A03 standards
or using Spectrophotometer2. Perspirometer
Size of the specimen = 10cm*4cm
Force of the specimen = 5kgs
Size of acrylic plates = 12.5cm*6.5cm
No. of acrylic plates = 163. Washing fastness Tester - Procedure
4. Hot air oven [ Drying ]
Temperature: 105C
Time: 30 minutes
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5. pH TestCompany: ELICO.LTDpH: 10specimen - 10gms cut into tiny pieces boil in 250ml of water cover using watchglass continue boiling for 10 min room temp cool measure with electronic pH
meter directly6. Shrinkage Test
Temperature: 201CRH: 652
7. Spirality TestSpecimen circumference: 11.2cm cut using round plate
Color matching Cabinet:Machine: VerivideMake: Switzerland
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4 light option buttons: [ shops light settings ] Color Matching Software: 3.0 Macbeth.
-D65 [ Europe ]-TL 84 [ US ]-Filament [ US ,Cool white fluorescent]
-UV LightPantone Color Samples:
Shades - textile cotton or textile paper solutionColors Record form Accepted internationally
Testing Centre :Internally - Quality inspector reports check
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Quality Control
S.Nithya [05F036]
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Inspection
Inspection is done at three main stages: Raw Material Inspection In-Process Inspection Final InspectionRaw Material Inspection
Yarn Stage - Before Fabric Inspection - Fabric Inspection Size-Set ApprovalAccessory Inspection
Sewing threadsZippersButtonsInterlining
Online InspectionDuring production - By Quality inspectorCarried out various stages: Spreading ,Cutting ,Sewing, Pressing, Finishing
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Acceptable Quality Level:Statistical Sampling technique
These are 4 main levels followed in Apparel Industry. The levels are;
1.0 1.5 2.5 4.0
Suppose the buyers ask for AQL 2.5, then the industry will follow the
previous AQL 1.5. To be precautious in not exceeding the rejection
number.
Final Inspection:
Final Inspection end of production before shipment
Atleast 80% of the consignment finally packed
Performed according to International Standards
Yarn Test Report
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p
Lab Dip Approval [2.5cm * 2.5cm]
Fabric GSM Approval
Size set approval and Accessories approval
Packing Material approval[Carton, Garment Fold Tissue, Cardboard, photo]
Carton Sticker [printed]
Defective pieces accepted if within AQL level .
Grading given as;ExcellentVery GoodGoodPoor [lot is rejected]
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Cost and Freight[Company responsible for goods gate ]
In-house Stuffing
[Central Excise takes in charge 4 container lorries Rs.400 a lorry
Bill Of Lading
[After a day of dispatch]
Company waits for a high rate of foreign currency then does the in-housestuffing and call for the Central Excise.
That days market value is entered as the final rate in foreign currency.
A small profit to the organization!!!!!!!!!
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Finishing Department
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Sequence till Dispatch after garment construction
Garment Construction
Final Checking
Tagging / Stickering
Poly Bag Packing
Inspection
Checking
Ironing
Carton Box Packing
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Pressing Machinery:Flat Bed
Purpose: Ironing any part of garment
Make: Ram sons and Mehala ,Made in India
Features:
Air sucking in table steam iron pedal for supplying steam Water level 400ml
No. of machines : 8
Iron wt : 400gms [small ]
Folding Specifications:
Tissue Paper PackingInner Board Packing
Hanger Packing [ 20hangers in 1 master bag]
Photo card packing
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Special Machines in various Departments:
Air Flat Lock [auto trimmer dust passage ]
Checking Machine [hole detection tube light ]
Trimming Machine [blade done before checking & after garment make ]
Wedge Pack machine [ handy ]
Needle Detector machine
Bar tack machine
Collar Attachment
Label Fusing Machine
Carton Packing machine [ strapping the carton ]
Easy loading of containers onto vans
Elastic Attachment Machine
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Production Planning & Control
G.Ambikavathi [05F004]
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Line Balancing:- to set the flow through each operation to be as similar as possible
- check from time to time how things are going
- even out the flow again
- each line 2 floaters
Plant Loading:
workers assigned work equally
the quality controller or Line supervisor is in-charge
If the worker is not able to complete his job, then he has to work extra hours. This isnot the incentive since it is his fault
Product Acceptance Sampling:
Pattern Approval
Size Set Sample
Initial Production Check
Buyer Author representatives
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Softwares in Production Planning and Control
Cutting Department: AutoCAD Lectra, Gurber
Sewing Department to Container/Finishing Department:
ERP Sap Software
The details cannot be traced out
One cannot enter anything of ones own wish.
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Administrative Aspects
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Procedure for receiving the order:
price
negotiation
finalization
sample satisfaction
factory inspection
acceptance
order placement
company visit by buyer production
Di t hi g F liti P d
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Dispatching Formalities Procedure
Export Officer
Order sheet, LC requisition, LC Receipt Request from finishing department forEndorsement
Endorsement preparation (invoice, shipping bill filed with AEPC)
Cargo movement msg (ready for shipment) Customs documentation preparation
Filing with customs Preparation of GSP approved by the textile committee
Original document to buyer (air/sea) Bank Attested invoice
Proof of shipment given to AEPC
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Merchandiser
Objectives:
Co-ordinate with buyers
Time and action plan
Maintain quality
Roles played by the merchandiser:Garment costing
Prepares all types of samples for approval
Material requirement planning and sales confirmation
Marketing
Negotiation with buyers
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Few Garment Styles
SEWING AND CUTTING
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SEWING AND CUTTING
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CHECKING AND PACKING
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QUALITY CHECK AND STANDARD TESTING
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Thank You