SPAIN

S U M M A R Y

VALLADOLID AND ITS HISTORY 1

CITY ITINERARIESFrom Campo Grande to the Cathedral 3The city of the nobles 7Images of the past 12Other places of interest 15

PROVINCIAL ROUTESThe red wine trail 16The route of the knights 19The soul of castile 21Tierra de Campos 24The claret trail 27

LEISURE AND ENTERTAINMENT 30USEFUL INFORMATION 33MAP OF THE PROVINCE 34

UNITED KINGDOM

IRELAND

FRANCE

PORT

UG

AL

SPAIN

VALLADOLID

© T U R E S P A Ñ A

Secretaría de Estado de Comercio y TurismoMin i s ter io de Economía

Text: Javier ToméTranslation: Alistair Louis RossPhotographs: TURESPAÑA archivesDesign: Megacolor S.A.Printed by: IMPRESAD. L.: NIPO: 104-00-024-5Printed in Spain

First edition

Madrid

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London

París

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MOROCCO

Rabat

CeutaMelilla

1

LLocated in the centre of theCastilian plateau, theprovince of Valladolid has a

population of just under half amillion, distributed in roughproximity to the basin of thehistoric river Duero and itstributaries. The land is almostuniformly flat, dominated by a great plain which is thecharacteristic image of Tierra deCampos. The only breaks in alandscape of smoothly rollingcountryside are the mountains of the high plains of Torozos.

The climate is dry and extreme,with a mean annual temperature of11.8º and frequent frosts in the winter months. The climate iscontinental and there is scant rainfall – a mere 400 mm annually. As to vegetation, the southern part of the Duero valley boasts large stands of pine and vineyards whichproduce the excellent ‘Ribera delDuero’ wines.

Situated on the confluence of therivers Esgueva and Pisuerga, theprovincial capital currently has apopulation of 319,946. This important city, the administrativecentre of the Castilla-Leon region,

is only 191 kilometres from Madrid. In fact Valladolid is a dynamic,cosmopolitan city which stillpreserves the ancient traditions andglories of an immensely rich past.

DDespite its prominent placein the history of Spain,Valladolid only became a

political capital of the firstimportance in relatively ‘recent’times. The site of various ancientsettlements, in the year 1000, Valladolid was little morethan a farming village of no socialimportance whatsoever. But located as it was on the frontier of two eternal enemies, Arabs andChristians, it progressively grew andacquired a personality of its own.

The year 1074 saw its coming ofage, when the legendary CountAnsurez, the repopulator ofValladolid, was granted the lordshipof the town. This date marked therise of the original Belad Valed togreatness in the age of Reconquest.In October 1469, the CatholicMonarchs were joined in matrimonyin an almost furtive ceremony at thepalace of Vivero. And on 21 May

VALLADOLIDAND ITS HISTORY

1527, the palace of the Pimentelwitnessed the birth of Philip II, themonarch who raised the town to thestatus of a city.

As seat of the Royal Court andoccasional capital of the nation,Valladolid enjoyed a period ofhalcyon splendour, fuelled by thegold pouring in from the newlydiscovered territories of America.The tremendous upsurge in thepolitical and commercial growth ofValladolid, which welcomedColumbus, Magellan, Cervantes andother celebrities, has left its artisticimprint in a magnificentmonumental heritage which we canstill admire with our own eyes.

The years passed, and Valladolid,with its myriad legend-hauntedcorners, followed the same downhillpath as the rest of the once gloriousSpanish Empire. At the beginning of19th century, the invader Bonapartecommitted the outrage ofestablishing his general headquartersin the very city. These were times ofconflict and disaster, when theimmortal Castile looked on inhorror as the work of centuriescrumbled away.

The nadir of decay was reachedwell into the 20th century, with thedreadful civil war between Spaniardand Spaniard. This was laterfollowed by a period ofdevelopment and rapid urbangrowth driven by general economicrevival. Finally, in 1983 Valladolidwas chosen to be the capital of theRegion of Castilla y Leon, at last afitting recompense for this ancientprovince whose modern, pluralistoutlook contributed so much to theformation of the modern state.

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Cavalry Academy

3

CITY ITINERARIES

From Campo Grandeto the cathedral

AAgood place tostart a walkthrough this

peaceful and noble cityis the Church of LosAgustinos Filipinos andthe Oriental Museumthere (1). The church,a circular edifice witha severe exterior, wasdesigned by theNeoclassical architect VenturaRodriguez starting in 1759. In the interior is an unusual museum exhibiting objects collected bymissionaries on their evangelisingtravels. It boasts the best collectionof Chinese and Philippine art in thecountry as well as other piecesrecalling Spain’s colonial past.

Next to the Augustine building is the Church of San Juan deLetran (2), with a strikingly sinuousBaroque façade. It was originallybuilt as a hospital but in the courseof time came to be a sanctuary ofgreat devotional importance. The end of this walk brings us tothe Monument to ChristopherColumbus (3), the work of AntonioSusillo dated l905.

The Campo Grande park (4) iswhere one can breathe the purestair in Valladolid. Once a parade

ground surrounded by convents, inthe 19th century the “Campo deMarte” [Field of Mars], as it wascalled, was turned into a romantic garden on the initiative of themayor, Miguel Iscar. Strollers in thisdelightful retreat, with its air ofyouthful verve, can admire busts ofdiverse local personalities, and twomagnificent fountains: fuente de la Fama (1880) and fuente delCisne (1886).

In Plaza de Zorrilla, a majorurban crossroads, stands theStatue of Jose Zorrilla (5), amonument created in 1900 byAurelio Carretero. On the westernside of this important square onecan view the Cavalry Academy (6),the first stone of which was laid by

Plaza Mayor and City Chambers

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King Alfonso XIII in 1921. The Academy Museum reflects thehistorical evolution of cavalryforces. In front of the building is amonument to the hunters ofAlcantara, a group sculpture inbronze created by MarianoBenlliure en 1931.

Going round the square, just atthe beginning of Recoletos, one ofthe city’s finest avenues, rises theCasa Mantilla (7), an urbaneedifice built in 1891. Carrying onalong Calle Miguel Iscar is theCervantes House Museum (8).Here, the immortal Miguel deCervantes lived with his family from1603 to 1606, and here he putthe final touches to Don Quijote.This memento to Cervantes,containing period furniture andother objects, perfectly recreatesdaily life in a 17th-century nobledwelling.

Adjoining Cervantes’ house isthe Museum of the RoyalAcademy of Fine Art (9), whoseexhibits consist of entries submitted since 1863 plus otherworks left in deposit or donated.

Back in Plaza de Zorilla, theitinerary follows the street namedafter Queen Maria de Molina. On the left side of this zone, whichhas plenty to offer in the way ofshopping, culture andentertainment, is the Teatro Lopede Vega (10), a truly strikingedifice which was inaugurated in1861. A few yards further along is the Convent and Museum of San Joaquin and Santa Ana (11),an ancient Cistercian foundationrebuilt in the Neoclassical style bySabatini at the end of the 18thcentury. The small museum containspaintings by Goya and Bayeu,and also a marvellous sculpture ofChrist recumbent by GregorioFernandez.

Calle Pasion leads the way intoa quarter whose elegance hasnever dated. Of the Church of LaPasion (12) only the doorwayremains; the interior is now used asthe Municipal Exhibition Room. Onlya few steps away is the Caballo deTroya [Trojan Horse] (13), a formerinn in whose courtyard the paintingof the eponymous horse can still be

Campo Grande Park

seen. The quasi-circular PlazaMayor (14) is dominated by astatue of Count Ansurez (1903), lordof the city in the time of Alfonso VI.Based on a 16th-centurydevelopment, the precinct hasrecently been restored as abusiness and leisure centre, takingcare to preserve the uniformity ofthe archetypal Spanish square. On the north side stands the Town Hall (15), a building whichhas set the tempo of the town since 1908.

Bustling Calle Santiago displays a blend of past gloriesand fine new establishments. A good example of this is theEdificio las Francesas (16), aformer convent of theComendadores of Santa Cruzwhich now houses a modernshopping centre. The 17th-centurychurch is now used as anotherMunicipal Exhibition Room. For allkinds of information, the Valladolidtourist office has premises atnumber 19. Turning back we come

to the Church of Santiago (17), aGothic building commenced in1490 and shrine to a real arttreasure – the priceless Epiphanyaltarpiece made by AlonsoBerruguete in the 16th century.

Our itinerary continues throughthe streets and past the monumentsof the old town. Set in a cornerwith a strong mediaeval flavour,the Plaza Fuente Dorada (18)recalls its sturdy origins with a guild statue depicting the oldartisans who once inhabited theseplaces – silversmiths, druggists andso on. Then there is the ConventoPorta Coeli (19), known as “Las Calderonas”, with its air oflong tradition. Founded by DonRodrigo Calderon, its outlinesreflect the artistic tastes of the mostexalted courtesans. Within its wallsare fine statues of figures in prayercarved on the tomb of Don Rodrigoand his wife Doña Ines de Vargas.

A slight detour brings us to theChurch of El Salvador (20),recognisable by its square tower.

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Plaza Fuente Dorada

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Inside there is a superb Flemishaltarpiece in the Chapel of San Juan Bautista. This walk endsin Pasaje Gutiérrez (21), a fineexample of the shopping arcadesthat were fashionable in 19th-century Europe. Inauguratedin 1886, its iron framework andglass panels provide an eminently suitable ambience forboth commerce and simpleaesthetic enjoyment.

Oriental MuseumPaseo Filipinos, 7( 983 30 69 00 and 983 30 68 00Timetable: Weekdays 16 to 19 h,holidays 10 to 14 h

Museum of the Cavalry AcademyPlaza de Zorrilla, 2. ( 983 35 02 00Staff guides. Visits by prior writtenarrangement with the director of theAcademy

Cervantes House and MuseumDel Rastro, s/n. ( 983 30 88 10Timetable: Weekday 9.30 to 15.30 hSandays 10 to 15 hClosed Mondays and holidays

Museum of the Royal Academy of Fine ArtDel Rastro, s/n. (Casa de Cervantes)( 983 30 88 10Can be visited by prior arrangementwith a member of the Academy

Museum of San Joaquin and Santa AnaPlaza de Santa Ana, 4( 983 35 76 72Timetable: Monday to Friday: 10 to 13.30 h and 17 to 20 hSaturdays and holidays: 10 to 14.30 hClosed Sundays

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The city of the nobles

TThe Cathedral (22) wasplanned to be the mostimportant church in Spain,

but the work was never entirelyfinished. Following the deaths ofthe architect Juan de Herrera andKing Philip II, the grandioseoriginal plans were forgotten until

1668, when the central body wasinaugurated. Later, in 1730, thefaçade was completed byChurriguera. At all events, thoughincpomplete, the Cathedral isoutstanding for its clean lines and its undeniable air of grandeur.It is fitting that the main chapelshould enshrine the magnificentaltarpiece wrought by Juan de Juni in 1562.

Within the cathedral is theentrance to the Diocesan Museum,which contains exceptional groupsculptures and carvings byGregorio Fernandez and by Junihimself. There is also a fabulous burnished silvermonstrance wrought by the great Juan de Arfe.

There are two further examplesof the outstanding religiousarchitecture of Valladolid, datingfar back in time. One is theChurch of Las Angustias (23),commenced by Juan de Nates in1597. Besides the impressive

Church of Las Angustias

façade, the interior contains asplendid carving of the Virgen delas Angustias by Juan de Juni. Thesecond is the Church of SantaMaria la Antigua (24), whosetower, with its elegant pyramidalcrown, is a local landmark. It hasbeen justly dubbed ”the queen ofCastilian Romanesque towers”.

Set among magnificent ruinsrecalling the faith and religiousfervour of our forebears, onecannot fail to be impressed by theBaroque doorway of theUniversity (25), decorated withacademic allegories by the Tomebrothers. Completed in 1346, thisnucleus for the dissemination ofculture has been a driving force inthe growth and prosperity ofValladolid for nearly sevencenturies. Nothing remains of theoriginal building, but the existingstructure does preserve elements of

value, like the Talavera tilesdecorating the base of the walls.The square adjoining the Universityis dominated by a statue ofCervantes (26), dated 1877 andoriginally intended to standopposite the writer’s house.

Walking along Calle Libreriaone can see the silhouette of theColegio de Santa Cruz (27),whose façade was the firstRenaissance work in Spain.Founded by Cardinal Mendoza in1483, its original Gothic designwas supplanted on the exterior byfine, complex ornamentation in thePlateresque style. As a local poetput it, “all its harmony and beautybear the imprint of a city where theadventure of discovery was thesubject of debate, where monarchswere born and where the noblestscions of Castile foundedmonasteries”.

Cathedral

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A walk through streets redolentof history and culture brings us to Columbus’s House andMuseum (28), where tradition hasit that Christopher Columbus diedon 20 May 1506. The presentbuilding, erected in the 1960s, is a copy of the palace built by the Admiral’s son, Diego Colon, on the island of Santo Domingo.It contains an attractive museum

with objects and documentsrelating to the voyage of discovery, and a reproduction of the deck cabin of the ship Santa Maria.

Practically opposite stands theChurch of La Magdalena (29).Built in the Renaissance style in

1570, the front of the buildingdisplays the impressive coat ofarms of Don Pedro de Gasca,bishop and pacifier of Peru. Inside the church is the tomb ofDon Pedro, a work in alabaster byEsteban Jordan. Architecturally of a pìece with the church is theMonastery of Las Huelgas Reales (30). Founded by QueenMaria de Molina in 1282, thebrick edifice now standing wasbegun in 1579 and is an excellent example of the classicistCastilian style. Outstanding are the Mudejar doorway, whichbelonged to the palace, and thetomb where the queen sleeps thesleep of centuries.

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University

Passing by the Medical Facultyand its curious Museum ofAnatomy (31), palaces andescutcheoned mansions vie withthe magnificent churches ingrandeur. The Palacio de losVivero (32), a place of long royaland noble tradition, witnessed themarriage of the Catholic Monarchsin 1469. It later became the seatof the Chancellery and is now theProvincial Historical Archive.Standing opposite, the Convent ofLas Descalzas Reales (33) waspatronised by Maragarita deAustria in the early years of

the 17th century. The balconieswere enclosed with jalousies to emphasise the withdrawal of the Clarissan nuns whoinhabited it.

Descending Calle San Martin,one is struck by the aura of age ofthe Church of San Martin (34).The slim bell tower stands out from its urban surroundings,landmarking one of the city’s mostrevered churches. Only a few stepsaway is the house where JoseZorrilla was born on 21 February1817. The Zorrilla HouseMuseum (35) contains a goodcollection of documents, furnitureand personal effects whichbelonged to Zorrilla, author of“Don Juan Tenorio”.

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Church of Santa Maria la Antigua

The itinerary ends with twomansions typical of the Castiliannobility. First is the Palace of theMarquis of Villena (36), with a fine courtyard enclosed by two-tiered arches. And second isthe Palace of the Pimentel (37),where King Philip II was born in 1527. Now the site of theProvincial Deputation, its moststriking feature is a spectacularPlateresque window that adornsone of its corners.

Steeple of Church of San Martin

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Diocesan and Cathedral MuseumArribas, 1( 983 30 43 62Timetable: Weekdays 10 to 13.30 hand 16.30 to 19 h. Saturdays,Sundays and holidays 10 to 14 hClosed Mondays

Columbus House and MuseumCalle Colón, s/n( 983 29 13 53Timetable: Weekdays 10 to 14 h and17 to 19 h. Sundays 10 to 14 hClosed Mondays and holidays

Zorrilla House and MuseumCalle Fray Luis de Granada, 2( 983 42 62 55Timetable: Tuesday to Saturday 10 to14 h and 17 to 19 h. Sunday 10 to 14 hClosed Mondays and holidays

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BBefore stopping at San Gregorio, anoutstanding example of

religious art, it is well worth having a look at the Convent ofSanta Clara (38), originally builtoutside the walls and converted to Baroque in the 18th century.Nearer by is the Church of San Benito el Viejo (39), a formerhermitage that was altered at theheight of the Renaissance period.Next door is the Palace of theCount of Gondomar (40), alsoknown as Casa del Sol or House of the Sun because of the solar motif on the Plateresquedoorway.

One of the loveliest buildings in Valladolid is the Colegio de San Gregorio (41), seat of theNational Museum of Sculpture.This marvel of Hispano-Flemish artwas built between 1488 and1496 on the initiative of FrayAlonso de Burgos. The splendid

façade, bearing numerous artistic motifs, opens the way into a harmonious courtyard linedwith pillars topped by amagnificent Plateresque gallery.Another notable feature is thestaircase leading to the upper floor, a masterpiece of thearchitect’s art.

Now restored, since 1933 thebuilding has housed the NationalMuseum of Sculpture, whichcontains the most importantcollection of its kind in Europe. On display here is a selection ofworks from the 13th to the 18thcentury, including pieces byBerruguete, Juan de Juni and theomnipresent Gregorio Fernandez.In short, a wealth of artisticimagery which calls for a long,leisurely visit.

Next door is the Church of San Pablo (42), a Dominicanconvent whose best-known featureis an imposing Gothic façade by

Images of the past

Simon de Colonia. Like a jewelwrought in stone, its aestheticperfection brilliantly captures thestrength of a people’s faith. One ofthe chapels preserves amagnificent Christ recumbent byGregorio Fernandez. In theadjoining esplanade, laid out as if to capture the air of Valladolid,stands a statue of Philip II (43), a copy of the original by Pompeyo Leoni.

Facing San Pablo is the Royal Palace (44), recognisableby its Renaissance courtyard and18th-century imperial staircase, the work of Ventura Rodriguez.Behind this magnificent edifice isthe Convent of Las Brigidas (45),created by joining two noblemansions. Along Calle San Ignaciois the Musem of Valladolid (46),which was installed in 1967 in apalace built by the banker FabioNelli. A building in classical taste commenced in1576, the museumcontains a comprehensivedisplay of householdobjects, furniture,ceramics, paintings and sculptures.

The Church of San Miguel (47),originally belonging to theJesuits, preservesoutstanding carvings andtombs of prominentmembers of the Castiliannobility, and amagnificent Baroquealtarpiece depictingSweet Death. Further along in thedirection of the river

Pisuerga, Plaza de la Trinidad isflanked on one side by the Palaceof the Counts of Benavente (48),a colossal mansion whose gardensonce stretched down to theriverside. Today it houses theCastilla y Leon Public Library.

The next stop is the Convent ofSanta Catalina (49), reachedthrough streets that still retain theirold-world charm. Founded in1488, the church is the restingplace of the great sculptor Juan deJuni. Open to view on the way to Calle Encarnacion lie the extensive ruins of the Convent ofSan Agustin (50), built in 1407.Opposite this is the Monasteryand Museum of Santa Isabel (51),which has an enormous Gothiccloister and a display of the nuns’household articles.

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Colegio de San Gregorio. National Museum of Sculpture

Church of San Pablo

Only a few steps away is theimposing pile of the Monastery ofSan Benito el Real (52), built in theairily impressive old-Gothic style.Standing on the site of the formerfortress-palace of King Juan I, itsmost striking features include thedoorway by Rodrigo Gil deHontañon and the grille dividingthe interior of the church, forged in 1571 by Tomas de Celma.

The next stop along is theMercado del Val (53), an ironstructure designed in 1882 inimitation of the Parisian markets of thetime, followed by the Church of LaVera Cruz (54). This is located inCalle Platerias, a street famousthroughout Europe in the age ofimperial Valladolid. A penitentialchurch with façade by Herrera,

construction began at the end of the16th century at the time when the oldtown was elevated to the status of acity. Particularly striking are the unusualbalcony used for festivities and theimages carried in procession duringHoly Week, which are stored inside.

Now nearing the end of themonumental itinerary, it is only a littlefurther to the Archbishop’s Palace (55), a Plateresque buildingwhich proudly preserves the courtlyairs of its artistic commissioners.Opposite is the Teatro Calderon (56),emblematic of Valladolid’s culturallife. This fine Neoclassical building,inaugurated in 1864, is home to thefamous International Film Week. And here, hard by the Cathedral,ends our tour of Valladolid, a citythat was born to be eternal.

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Other places of interest

The list of the city’s interestingcorners is too long to give here.But by way of example we wouldmention Plaza de España (57), a good place for shopping and site of the Museum of Natural Science (59). Nearby isthe Sanctuary of La GranPromesa (59), an austere Jesuit edifice.

Calderon Theatre

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National Museum of SculptureCadenas de San Gregorio, 1( 983 25 03 75Timetable: Weekdays 10 to 14 h and 16 to 18 h. Sundays and holidays 10 to 14 hClosed Mondays and holidays:1 and 6 January, 1 and 13 May, 8 September, 24, 25 and 31 December

Museum of ValladolidPlaza de Fabio Nelli, s/n( 983 35 l3 89Timetable: Tuesdays to Friday 9.45 to14 h and 16 to 19.15 h. Saturdaysand Sundays 9.45 to 14.15 hClosed Mondays and holidays

Museum of Santa IsabelCalle Encarnación, 6( 983 35 21 39Timetable: Fridays and Saturdays 11 to 13 h. Group visits by arrangement

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TThe river Duero is the lifelineof this excursion, on whichvisitors will have the

opportunity to sample a number ofwines of worldwide renown andalso see lands steeped in populartraditions and reminders of thepast. Leaving the city by way ofthe C - 122, 14 kilometres away isthe town of Tudela de Duero,famous for its asparagus. Theimpressive parish church, whichsuperbly captures the atmosphereand the light, has a greatRenaissance doorway attributed toJuan de Escalante. Also worth avisit is the picturesque hermitage ofLa Quinta Angustia, the work ofJuan de Nates.

Sardon de Duero is knownmainly for the nearby abbey ofSanta Maria de Retuerta, This is a

Benedictine monastery built in1145, with a number of adjoiningbuildings. It is particularly strikingfor the refined architectural lines ofthe hospice, built in the 18thcentury. The next stop on the route is Quintanilla de Onesimo,where one can admire a 16th-century bridge, and mostimportantly the altarpiece thatpresides over the church of San Millan, one of the finest Renaissance works in all Castile.

Next we come to an areawhose landscape is dominated byvineyards and where Ribera deDuero wines are made to astandard first laid down in 1982.With their deep, intense colourand their velvety taste, these wineswell deserve their reputation in the

The red wine trail(115 kilómetres)

PROVINCIAL ROUTES

international market. The wine townpar excellence is Vega Sicilia, agood place to stop and drink in thedelightful aromas and sensations.

The castle of Peñafiel standsproudly overlooking a town laidout in concentric circles. Fortified in1307, Peñafiel, the “faithful rock ofCastile”, was once a first-ratecommercial and historic centre,and there are numerous traces leftto show it. First is the castle, ofcourse, a fortress over 200 metreslong and extremely well preserved. The magnificent boat-shaped shellnow houses the provincial winemuseum.

In addition to a number of sitesthat are virtual chronicles of thepast, the most important building inPeñafiel is the church of San Pablo,the best existing example of

Gothic-Mudejar style in theprovince. Particularly interesting in the interior is the funeral chapelof the Manuels, set off by finePlateresque details.

From Peñafiel a 4 kilometredetour brings us to Curiel,interesting for the palace of

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Jurisdictional pillar. Curiel

Abbey of Santa Maria de Valbuena

Don Diego Lopez de Estuñiga andthe ruins of a fortress. But the route now heads back towardsValladolid, following the river asfar as Pesquera de Duero, wherethere are numerous archaeologicalremains and a church with a trulyoutstanding processional cross.Some ten kilometres further on, theabbey of Santa Maria deValbuena is only a little out of theway. This is a magnificentCistercian monastery built in1143, whose halls are to becomethe permanent home of the culturalfoundation “Edades del hombre”[Ages of Mankind].

The last stop is the church atRenedo, a very striking Baroquestructure. From there it is only a shortdistance to Valladolid, thus ending ajourney whose memory will linger inthe eyes and the taste buds.

Castle of Peñafiel

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Museum of WineCastillo de Peñafiel (Valladolid)( 983 88 11 99Timetable: From 1 October to Palm Sunday. Tuesday to Friday: 12 to 14 h and 16.30 to 19.30 hSaturdays, Sundays and holidays:11.30 to 14.30 h and 16.30 to 20.30 hClosed Mondays, except holidays,and 24, 25 and 31 December and 1 and 6 JanuaryFrom Holy Week to 30 SeptemberDaily 11.30 to 14.30 h and 16.30 to 20.30 hClosed Mondays, except holidays

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TThe N - 601 highway runsthrough pine-cladcountryside on a route that

offers continual visual surprises. The first stop, 8 kilometres fromValladolid, is the recreational andresidential complex of Laguna deDuero. Despite theis modern air, the Gothic church and thehermitage of the Virgen del Villarare worth a look. In Boecillo, atown well known for its wineries,those adventurous enough can try their luck at the Casino deCastilla-Leon, which now occupies the former palace of the Counts of Gamazo.

The architectural keynote ofMojados is Mudejar. Both thechurch of San Juan and the churchof Santa Maria are built in thisstyle; the feature of most interest inthe latter is a splendid Crucifixionby Juan de Juni. From Mojados

there is a turn-off to the rightleading to the MatapozuelosNature Park, where over ahundred animal species live insemi-freedom. Further on isAlcazaren, whose most strikingfeature is the Baroque chapel ofthe church of Santiago, decoratedwith polychrome plasterwork.

The important town of Olmedo, the best place forMudejar in the province ofValladolid, is like a leap back into the ancestral past. It is nomere coincidence that battlesdecisive for the country’s historywere fought around these walls, or that the great Lope de Vegachose Olmedo as the home of the literary knight who gave birthto an entire legend. The historicweight of Olmedo is aptlyencapsulated in a popular rhyme which says:

Route of the knights(110 kilometres)

“Quien señor de Castilla quiera ser,a Olmedo de su parte ha de tener”.

[Who o’er Castile would fain presidemust have Olmedo on his side]

Olmedo has a number ofoutstanding monuments: The churchof Santa Maria del Castillo, nearthe Plaza Mayor, displays anattractive blend of periods andstyles; a pure Gothic outlinecombines with a Romanesquedoorway, the whole set off by the Plateresque scenes in the main altarpiece. Visitors shouldalso take a look at the church ofSan Miguel, an outstandingexample of 13th century Mudejar,beneath whose altar is the chapel of the Virgen de laSoterraña, the town’s patron saint.Before leaving this large, secluded town, visitors are advisedto stop by the curious MudejarTheme Park, a delightful siteoffering walks, a lake teeming with life, and a sightseeing train.The park offices contain exactscale replicas of the mostoutstanding Mudejar buildings inthe region of Castilla y Leon.

By way of the C - 112 we come to Iscar, a town with a long history which is particularlynoted for its furniture. Although thekeep is all that remains of thecastle, the town’s importance in mediaeval times can be deducedfrom the number of noble andescutcheoned houses. Also worthseeing is the church of SantaMaria, which has a finePlateresque altarpiece, and theRomanesque apse of the church of San Miguel.

From Iscar the route leads back to Valladolid, stopping on theway at Portillo. Here there is a15th-century Gothic cross, set at acrossroads on the outskirts of thetown, and a fine main altarpiecein the parish church. In the upperpart of the town, looking out over the flat horizon, stand the15th-century castle and the church of Santa Maria, withBaroque side-chapel andaltarpieces. Portillo is amonumental setting which is worth taking in slowly for the good of the spirit.

Castle of Iscar

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OOnly 13 kilometres fromValladolid on the N - 620is Simancas, whose

marvellous castle has housed theGeneral Archive of the Kingdomsince the time of Philip II. The archive houses a collection ofinvaluable documents pertaining tomonarchical rights and imperialadministration where the birth ofthe soul of Castile is reflected in allits splendour. The parish churchboasts a fine altarpiece and avaluable collection of silverwork.

It was in the courtly town ofTordesillas, in 1494, that Spainand Portugal signed the treatywhich set the boundaries forsettlement of the New Worldterritories. Once part of the line of

defence against Moslem invasions,the most outstanding building inartistic terms is the monastery ofSanta Clara, a palace erected byAlfonso XI and turned to religioususe by his son Pedro I the Cruel.The attractions of this masterpieceof Mudejar design include afaçade in the Almohad style, Arabbaths and a 15th-century fieldaltarpiece now set in themagnificent Saldaña chapel. Apart from the magical sight ofTordesillas at dusk, other points of interest are the exhibition ofsculpture in the church of San Antolinand the new museum of laceworkwhich traces the evolution of dressin Castilla y Leon from the 16thcentury to the present day.

The soul of Castile(105 kilometres)

Further along the N - VI, Rueda isfamous both for its wines and forthe battles that were fought in thearea during the Peninsular War.The church of La Asuncion, one of the finest examples of ValladolidBaroque, contains a 16th-centuryFlemish triptych and a magnificentorgan.

Carrying on over the boundless Castilian plain isMedina del Campo, once a centre of wealth and splendourthanks to its busy markets and fairs.On one corner of the porticoedPlaza Mayor stands the housewhere Isabel la Catolica died in1504. Her statue is the central

General Archive of the Kingdom. Simancas

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Castle of La Mota. Medina del Campo

Mediaeval bridge. Tordesillas

monument in this historic town. A walk through the town centrereveals treasures from the past suchas the palace of the Dueñas,residence of Charles I, or themagnificent collegiate church ofSan Antolin, within whose walls along list of valuable works arepreserved. But the real gem of thistour is the castle of La Mota, itsimposing outline stark against theprovincial sky. Besides the keep,visitors are recommended to viewthe fine parade-ground, the chapel and the queen’s boudoir,absolutely authentic relics of the past.

Returning to the starting-point by way of the C - 611, the roadpasses La Seca, where theBaroque altarpiece by Joaquin de Churriguera in the parish church provides a memorable lastsight in an itinerary replete withculture and art.

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Royal Monastery of Santa ClaraTordesillas ( 983 77 00 71Timetable: Tuesday to Saturday, 10 to 13 h and 15.30 to 18.30 h(winter, 10.30 to 13 h and 16 to17.30 h)Sundays and holidays 10.30 to 13.30 h and 15.30 to 17.30 h

Museum of San AntolinTordesillas. Visits by arrangement( 983 77 10 67

Museum of LaceworkTordesillas. ( 983 79 60 35Timetable: Monday to Friday 17 to20 h. Group visits by arrangement

TThe route to Tierra deCampos traverses theendless Castilian steppe

towards fathomless horizons. The unchanging scenery, dottedhere and there with grain fields, isat one with its inhabitants and withthe towns that blend in with thesurroundings. Eleven kilometresfrom Valladolid by way of the N - 601 is Villanubla, site of theprovincial airport and a 16th-century church with charmingBaroque altarpieces.

Medina de Rioseco, the old“town of the Admirals”, still betrays

the weight of stone and centuriesdespite its obvious aspirations tomodernity. A prosperous town inthe middle ages, it evinces anextraordinary symbiosis of memoryand vitality which will attract theattention of inquiring minds. The church of Santa Maria deMediavilla is a building of greataesthetic and architectural merit inthe Isabelline Gothic style, builtbetween 1490 and 1516. Within its historic walls is thechapel of the Benavente family,admirable for its wealth ofdecoration and an altarpice by

24

Tierra de Campos (180 kilometres)

Juan de Juni dedicated to theVirgen de la Inmaculada. It wasaptly dubbed by Eugenio d´Ors as “the Sixtine Chapel of Castilian art”.

In the church is the museum ofthe Mediavilla family, whichcontains sculptures, paintings,Hispano-Philippine ivories and amarvellous monstrance wrought insilver by Antonio de Arfe. Only astep away is the church of SantaCruz, a building in the style ofHerrera which houses the museumof Holy Week processionalimages. And last is the church ofSantiago, home to a dazzlingBaroque altarpiece, fruit of thegenius of Joaquin de Churriguera.

Turning off on the C - 611 wecome to Villalon de Campos, atown of special charm imbued by

a particularly striking populararchitecture. Two churches standout in the town centre – the churchof San Miguel, built originally inthe Mudejar style, and the churchof San Juan which has a curiousarticulated figure of Christ from theyear 1600. In the middle of theold Castilian porticoed squarestands a 16th-century justice pillarin the flamboyant Gothic style.

Back on the N - 601, the roadcarries on through featurelesscountryside to Mayorga deCampos. Once a royal residence,of the old walls only the ‘Puerta del Arco’ or Arch Gate remain.Mayorga is the birthplace of Santo Toribio de Mogrovejo. The church of El Salvadorpreserves the best works from other local churches.

Church of La Santa Cruz. Medina de Rioseco

25

Turning back a way, we come toBecilla de Valderaduey, whereremains of the Roman road andbridge can still be seen. From there,the L - 520 leads off to Bolaños, atown which still preserves thecharacteristic 15th-century justicepillar, and from there to Tordehumos,much used as a setting for Spanishromantic novels. Its main attractionsare the remains of the castle andtown walls, and the church ofSantiago, which contains anoutstanding Calvary scene carved inthe workshops of Esteban Jordan.

Not far away is Villabragima,which once had an importantJewish quarter. The timelessness ofthe religious experience isbeautifully expressed by the churchof Santa Maria, built entirely ofmasonry, and the church of SanGines, which boasts a fine vaultedceiling with decorative plasterwork.

The last stop on the excursion to Tierra de Campos isCastromonte, popular for itsmedicinal waters and its 16th-century Baroque church.

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Traditional dovecote. Melgar

Museum of Santa Maria de MediavillaMedina de RiosecoCorro de Santa María, s/n( 983 70 03 27Timetable: Tuesday and Sunday 11 14 and 17 to 20Closed mondays

TThe land that stretches north-east of Valladolid isknown as Montes Torozos.

The climate in this region is dryand extreme, the landscape dotted with vineyards andfortresses. This is the famous claret trail, a tribute to the rose-tinted beverage which in the words of Ortega y Gasset

“uplifts the heart and schools the feet to dance”.

Practically next door toValladolid on the L - 900 isFuensaldaña, where the severe but splendid Vivero castle, nowrestored, is the seat of theparliament of the Castilla y Leonregion. It has a particularlyimpressive rectangular keep,

The claret trail(160 kilómetros)

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Church. Mucientes

28

34 metres high. Nearby Mucientesoffers a number of attractions, chiefof which is a silver processionalcross by Pedro de Ribadeo in theGothic church.

From there, visitors are stronglyrecommended to stop in Cigalesand sample the local clarets, thelatest Valladolid wine product to begranted an appellation of origin.

The L - 911 leads to Villalba delos Alcores, whose old castle was built by the knights of theOrder of St. John of Jerusalem.Other outstanding sights are theRomanesque doorway of thechurch of Santa Maria del Temploand the nearby monastery ofMatallana, now home to a NatureInterpretation Centre. The next stopon the route is Montealegre,dominated by the 14th-centurycastle, a vast turreted pile ofgeometric design.

Carrying on westward andcrossing the N - 601, we come to La Santa Espina and its

magnificent monastery, a 12th-century Cistercian foundationwhich preserves the originalchapter house. In the plain butbeautiful church is the strikingfuneral chapel of the Vega family(14th century). The Neoclassicalfaçade is attributed to the ever-inspired Ventura Rodriguez.

Hard by, in Villagarcia deCampos, is the collegiate church of San Luis, designed by Gil deHontañon on the lines of what has become known as Jesuitarchitecture. It contains a chapelwith relics, outstanding altarpieces and a museum whoseexhibits include not only documents and works of art, butalso the glorious standard that wasflown at the Battle of Lepanto. The walled town of Urueña ishome to the Joaquin DiazEthnographic Centre, where thereare various collections of musicalinstruments. In the environs standsthe 12th-century hermitage of

Hermitage of La Anunciada. Urueña

Church. Wamba

La Anunciada, built in the pureLombard Romanesque style.

The next point of interest,reached via a turn-off on the N - VI,is the time-worn Roman town ofTiedra. Attractions include a 13th-century castle and theBaroque structure of the hermitageof Nuestra Señora. Nearby Motadel Marques preserves remains ofits castle tower and a palace thatonce belonged to the Marquis of Ulloa, with an open courtyardand segmental arches.

The second last stop is inTorrelobaton, an important militarystrongpoint from whose fortressissued the Comunero rebels whohad risen in arms against KingCarlos I, only to be defeated laterat Villalar. And finally, practically at the gates of Valladolid, thejourney ends in Wamba, namedafter the eponymous Gothic king.In the parish church, built by theTemplars in 1195, is the chapel ofDoña Urraca and an ossuary withhuman skulls and bones.

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Monastery of La Santa Espina( 983 56 50 64 y 983 56 50 30Timetable: Tuesday to Friday 10.30to 13 h and 16.30 to 19 hSaturdays 11.30 to 13.30 h and 16.30 h, 17.30 h and 18.30 hSundays and holidays 11.30 to 13.30 h

Museum of San LuisVillagarcia de Campos( 983 71 70 32Visiting hours:Sundays and holidays 16 to 19 hGroup visits by arrangement

Joaquin Diaz Ethnographic CentreUrueña ( 983 71 74 72

VV alladolid is host to amultitude of cultural events

practically the whole year round.Information on current events andcourses can be found in the local press, so visitors arerecommended to check this out to keep up with the wide rangeon offer in a city whoseoutstanding characteristics are its stateliness and its quality of life.

The festival of San Mateo on 21 September marks thecommencement of several daysof popular dances, theatricalperformances and otheralternative options such as thefood-tasting booths that set up inthe vicinity of the footballground. These days of feastingand celebration also coincidewith a prestigious InternationalTrade Fair, a highly interestingevent with large numbers ofexhibitors and wholesalersputting their products on display.

For a few days in the month ofOctober Valladolid is home tothe International Film Festivalknown as the Seminci. Variousseries and sessions offer apanorama of all the mostimportant developments, whilealso recalling cult films whichhave become part of themythology of the “seventh art”.This is an annual event whichtourists can supplement byfollowing the various leisureroutes that run through differentparts of the city. The very bestplace for tapas, washed down

by the local wines, is the areaaround the Plaza Mayor. Here there is an ample selectionof cafes and leisure spots, ideal for those seeking recreationin pleasant and friendlysurroundings.

In the field of sports,Valladolid has important teams in the top football, basketballand handball leagues. However, the leisure activity thathas perhaps seen the greatestboom in recent years is greentourism, a pursuit that brings maninto contact with the tranquillityof nature. The province boastscountless places for fishing andshooting, activities regulated bylaws that protect the variousanimal species. And at the golfcourses of Entrepinos, La Galeraand Bocigas, enthusiasts will find surroundings well removedfrom the noise and rush thatcharacterise our moderncivilisation.

The river at Castronuño, near Tordesillas, is almost like an inland sea, perfect forpractitioners of water sports. The San Jose reservoir is ideal forcanoeing, water skiing andsailing. There are attractiveecological itineraries through thewoodlands for those fond oftrekking, horse-riding, cycling orsimply healthy mental relaxation.Also suitable for relaxation andsporting activities is the Canal de Castilla, set in magnificentnatural surroundings with a widerange of leisure facilities.

LEISURE AND ENTERTAINMENT

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Eating and Drinking.Crafts

VV isitors arriving in the provinceof Valladolid are

recommended to temporarily set aside the old dictum that “weshould eat to live, not live to eat”.With the range of gastronomicdelights on offer, one is tempted totry everything, starting with meatssince there is a tremendous varietyof game in the province. Pigeon,partridge and hare, for example,provide ideal centrepieces for amouth-watering bill of fare; but thedishes most in demand are basedon lamb, an absolute delight asprepared in the regional“asadores”, restaurants specialisingin roast meat. And to sop up thelast of the gravy, what better thanValladolid’s famous bread?

Taverns and eating-houses offersuch culinary attractions as Zaratansausages, made from pork leanand belly. Or again there is theAhornazo, typically consumed atEaster – this is a loaf of aniseed-flavoured dough inside which arebaked toothsome morsels ofchorizo and egg.

A typical dessert is Villaloncheese, popularly known as“mule’s leg”. And for those fond ofsweet pastries, Valladolid offers anumber of first-class products:mantecados from Portillo, “marina”cakes made in Medina deRioseco, and delicious “ciegas”from Iscar. Of the wines, alreadymentioned in the wine trails, it isworth remembering the threeappellations of origin recognised inthis land where the concepts of

winemaking and culture go handin hand: the reds of Ribera deDuero, the rosés of Cigales andthe white wines of Rueda.

Another attractive facet of theregion are handcrafts, which havebeen practised to a degree ofperfection from time immemorial.Tourists will find an infinite varietyof beautiful, well-made products to browse through. There arevarious places which specialise in meticulously-finished everyday household goods inwicker and clay.

Workshops still survive whereone can acquire leather goodsand made-to-measure footwear.There are also industrial workswhich have now supplanted theold-time craftsmen in themanufacture of Castilian-stylefurniture with a fine reputation.

Popular Festivals

TThe inhabitants of this regionhave an ill-deserved reputation

for dourness. In fact the people ofValladolid have a strong traditionof gaiety which surfaceseverywhere throughout the year. A good example is the town of

31

Ribera del Duero wines

Tiedra, where the well-knownfestival of Las Aguedas in Februarygives the local women theopportunity to walk out in theirtraditional sequined costumes.

Carnival is a time for celebrationin numerous places, while thesummer solstice is hailed withbonfires on the night of San Juan.This is a time of year marked bywarmth in which the ancestralfigure of the fighting bull standsforth in numerous bull-runs andplayful amateur bullfights known as“capeas”. Among the best suchsights are the “toro de la Vega” in Tordesillas and the flamboyantparade of bullfighting associationswhich crowns the August festivities in Peñafiel.

But the queen of all festivals inthe province is Holy Week inValladolid. There is a wholetradition passed down fromgeneration to generation, which isan awesome aesthetic experienceeven for the agnostic spectator. The ritual passage of images, likea pageant of history come to life,is especially stunning in theprocessions of Medina de Rioseco.The climax in the city of Valladolid

is on Good Friday, when morethan thirty floats bearing imagescarved by the greatest of Castilianimage-makers – Berruguete, Juni and Gregorio Fernandez –advance through the streets in aceremony underpinned by deepreligious roots. Such seminal cultureand artistic display are theessential ingredients which lendHoly Week in Valladolid itspeculiar flavour.

Transport

GGood road communications withMadrid, first by way of the

N-VI then the N-601. There are alsoexcellent roads linking Valladolidwith other regional capitals, so thatlong-distance bus lines are a goodchoice for getting there.

There are several trains runningdaily from Madrid to Valladolid,whose modern station is the arrivalpoint for large numbers of visitors.It is also possible to fly toVillanubla international airport,where there are passenger andcargo flights to and from variousEuropean cities.

32Holy Week

33

International dialling code: 34

Tourist information TURESPAÑA ( 901 300 600www.tourspain.es

Tourist information in Castilla y Leon( 902 20 30 30www.jcyl.es/turismo

Federation of Tourist Initiative Centres in Castilla y Leon( 983 35 78 99fax 983 35 79 99

Castilla y Leon Tourist PromotionOffice in MadridCalle Espronceda, 4328003 Madrid( 91 554 37 69fax 91 553 82 51

Tourist information officesValladolid. Calle Santiago, 19( 983 34 40 13, fax 983 35 47 31Fuensaldaña. Calle del Agua, s/n( 983 58 30 00Iscar. Calle La Pilarica, 1( 983 61 18 01Medina de Rioseco. Plaza Mayor, 1( 983 70 08 25Medina del Campo. Plaza Mayor, 27( 983 81 13 57Olmedo. Arco de San Francisco, s/n( 983 62 32 05Peñafiel. Plaza del Coso, 2( 983 88 15 26Simancas. Plaza Mayor, s/n( 983 59 04 09Tordesillas. Casas del Tratado( 983 77 10 67

TransportVillanubla Airport( 983 41 54 00RENFE (trains). Information and booking( 902 24 02 02Bus StationCalle Puente Colgante, 2( 983 23 63 08City Buses( 983 33 03 59Taxis ( 983 29 14 11 and983 20 77 55

Other Telephone Numbers of InterestPost Office( 983 33 01 47National Police ( 091Municipal Police ( 092Medical Emergencies( 983 42 00 00Traffic Department( 900 12 35 05www.dgt.es

Paradors Central Booking OfficeCalle Requena, 328013 Madrid.( 91 5l6 66 66fax 91 516 66 57www.parador.ese-mail: Info@parador.es

Parador of TordesillasCarretera de Salamanca, 547100 Tordesillas (Valladolid)( 983 77 00 51fax 983 77 10 13

USEFUL INFORMATION

Pasaje Gutiérrez

Spanish Tourist Information Offices Abroad

Canada. TorontoTourist Office of Spain2 Bloor Street West Suite 3402TORONTO, Ontario M4W 3E2( 1416/961 31 31, fax 1416/961 19 92e-mail: toronto@tourspain.es

Great Britain. LondonSpanish Tourist OfficeManchester Square, 22-23. LONDON W1M 5AP( 44171/486 80 77, fax 44171/486 80 34e-mail: londres@tourspain.es

Japan. TokyoTourist Office of SpainDaini Toranomon Denki Bldg.4F. 3-1-10Toranomon. Minato-Ku. TOKIO-105( 813/34 32 61 41, fax 813/34 32 61 44e-mail: tokio@tourspain.es

Russia. MoscowSpanish Tourist OfficeTverskaya – 16/2 Business Center“Galeria Aktor” 6º floor.MOSCOW 103009( 7095/935 83 97, fax 7095/935 83 96e-mail: moscu@tourspain.es

Singapore. SingaporeSpanish Tourist Office541Orchard Road. Liat Tower # 09-04238881 SINGAPORE( 657/37 30 08, fax 657/37 31 73e-mail: singapore@tourspain.es

United States of AmericaLos Angeles. Tourist Office of Spain8383 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960BEVERLY HILLS, CAL 90211( 1323/658 71 88-658 71 92fax 1213/658 10 61e-mail: losangeles@tourspain.esChicago. Tourist Office Of SpainWater Tower Place, suite 915 East845, North Michigan AvenueCHICAGO, ILL 60-611( 1312/642 19 92, fax 1312/642 98 17e-mail: chicago@tourspain.esMiami. Tourist Office of Spain1221 Brickell AvenueMIAMI, Florida 33131( 1305/358 19 92, fax 1305/358 82 23e-mail: miami@tourspain.esNew York. Tourist Office of Spain666 Fifth Avenue 35 th floorNEW YORK, N.Y. 10103( 1212/265 88 22, fax 1212/265 88 64e-mail:nyork@tourspain.es

Embassies in Madrid

Canada. Nuñez de Balboa, 35( 91 431 43 00, fax 91 431 23 67Great Britain. Fernando El Santo, 16( 91 319 02 00, fax 91 308 10 33Japan. Serrano, 109( 91 590 76 00, fax 91 590 13 21Russia. Velazquez, 155( 91 562 22 64, fax 91 562 97 12United States of America. Serrano, 75( 91 587 22 00, fax 91 587 23 03

T U R E S P A Ñ ASecretaría de Estado de Comercio y Turismo

Ministerio de Economía

I