south east asia backpacker issue 34.pdf

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INTRODUCTION

YOUR 100 Best Travel Moments

peripheral vision next to me. An orangutan lent over me and stolemy juice! Another cafe patron captured the moment as he took asip. He took me by surprise, scaring the hell out of me! I spent thenext 15 minutes in hysterical giggles until the shock wore off.

IN SUMMARY:

What is interesting about many of these best travel moments isthat they were unplanned occurrences many of them happenedspontaneously whilst getting lost, waiting to get a visa, waiting fora temple to open, or whilst on a bus or boat journey that ended uplasting much longer than expected

A lot of the moments include a re-connection with nature, a feelingthat is sometimes lost in our modern, hectic world. Witnessing amarvel of nature, a gushing waterfall, a herd of elephants crossinga river, an incredible sunset, a starry sky or a school of sharksswimming right in front of you these moments overwhelm us andmake us realise that being at one with earth and nature is somethingthat we easily forget on a day-to-day basis, living in cities or towns.

Finally, and perhaps the most inspiring insight, is that the majority ofthe moments were shared with others. Others being good friends,old or new, foreign backpackers youve just met, or connectionswith local people from very different cultures.

Travel is not just about the seeing of sights or ticking items off abucket list, it is about sharing a special moment with a fellow humanbeing and realizing that no matter where we come from we areall the same in search of love and understanding on this great bigbeautiful planet. Travel is connection with people and nature.

What will 2015 hold for our adventurous readers?

(Note from the editor: Thank you to everyone who entered!The winners have bagged themselves an awesome one-week adventure in Thailand courtesy of Tru Travels and TheBamboo Project!)

efore the sun set for the last time on the end of 2014, weasked you to share with us your Best Travel Moments of the

Year. The response was incredible. From special moments sharedwith locals, friends and family amidst spectacular landscapes...to emotional homecomings, close encounters with nature, solospiritual moments and much more. We discovered that thesemoments arent just your most memorable travel moments thisyear, but perhaps some of the most memorable moments of yourentire life!

Reading each one carefully, we teared up more than a few timeshere at S.E.A Backpacker and feel very honoured that you tooktime to share these emotional and spiritual moments with us -THANK YOU! This magazine has always been about YOU andyour inspirational stories and we think that this 100 Best TravelMoments List is something to be very proud of folks! Travel is aprecious gift that is only available to a lucky few people one thatwe must always appreciate and remember.

THE WINNING MOMENTS (It was so hard to choose just two!):

Rory Chappelle -I recently lost my Father to a long struggle witha devastating form of dementia. He was my best friend. We neverhad an opportunity to share in my passion for travel. I took a specialphoto after about a week into me returning to doing what I love andliving out of my backpack... It is said that light orbs (which appearin the photo) are forms of energy presenting themselves andwatching over you. I choose to believe that it was my Dad watchingover me and sharing this beautiful moment from the universe. itwas a special feeling getting to share that with him.

Allyce Smith - In Borneo, I was staying at the Sepilok Jungle Resortwhich is next door to the Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre. Id spent

the afternoon in the pool because Id heard that one of the releasedorangutans had been seen there the day before. It came time for thepool to close and no sign of the orangutan. Disappointed, I returnedto my room to change before heading to the cafe for dinner. I wason my computer backing up photos when I saw movement in my

Wording: Nikki ScottPhoto: Jarrryd Salem (NOMADasaurus.com)

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A closer look at Koh Phangan.... 60

Backpacker International Limitedwww.southeastasiabackpacker.comwww.southamericabackpacker.comEmail: [email protected]

Backpacker South East Asia is Published by Backpacker International Limited.Managing Director & Editor: Nikki Scott. ( [email protected])Design & Layout: Nikki Scott. Web Manager: Nicholas Baron-Morgan.

Contributing Writers / Photographers:Nikki Scott, Jarryd Salem, AleshaBradford, John Melnyk, Samantha Starling, Joe Cummings, Macrae Sutton,Joe Lane Flaten, Carolann Hughes, Nazia Tariq, Leann McKeown, Chris Fox,Mel Larcombe, Laura Davies, Clare Gallagher, Conor Walsh, Jen Seiser, AmyBurbridge, Melanie Swan, Emily Martin, Brittany Talarico, Chiari Pelizarri, IanCampbell, Fuji Adriza, Matt Hilton.

Advertising enquiries: Email: [email protected] opportunities:Email: [email protected]

S.E.A Backpacker Magazine Legal:All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written

permission of the copyright holder. Opinions expressed in S.E.A Backpacker Magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. S.E.A Backpacker Magazine does not accept responsibility

for advertising content. Any pictures, transparencies or logos used are at the owners risk. Any mention of S.E.A Backpacker Magazine or use of the S.E.A Backpacker Magazine logo by

any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by S.E.A Backpacker Magazine. (c) S.E.A Backpacker Magazine, January 2015.

Cover Photo: By Flash Parker.

Features:

Destination Spotlight:

Regulars:7:South East Asia Map

8: NEWS!Whats happening inSouth East Asia!10: Letters:The Best of your Letters,

Poems and Scribblings!

22:Word on the Street:Your 10 BucketList Destinations of 2015!

36: PHOTOS:Life on the Tonle Sap,Cambodia.

40:Festivals & Events:Whats On?

14:KOH PHANGAN, THAILAND:Inspiration Island.

24:MYANMAR:Why You Should TravelBefore Its Too Late.

32:KUALA LUMPUR:The Alternative Guide.

46:CHIANG MAI, THAILAND:4 Escapes From The City.60: OFF THE BEATEN TRACK:

A Detour to Komodo, Indonesia.

CONTENTS:

43:DONT MISS!Shambhala in YourHeart Festival, Northern Thailand.46:ARTS: Phare, The Cambodian Circus.58: ENVIRONMENT: Underwater Gardening

in Koh Phi Phi, Thailand.

64:EXPAT: Making Vietnam My Home.

45:Soul Searcher: Better Together?54:Traveller Thoughts, Stories, Tips.56: FOOD:Learning to Cook Your

Favourite Thai Dishes!

68:INFO: Visas, Exchange Rates & more!

AlternativeGuidetoKualaLumpur... 50

WhyyoushouldvisitMyanm

arNOW!...46

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NEWS

THE BAMBOO PROJECTThis month we caught up with Mark and Steve, thefounders of The Bamboo Project, an organizationthat puts backpackers in touch with sustainable NGOprojects and creates trips that are a mix of adventureand volunteering. We wanted to nd out more about

volun-tourism - a word that has become trendy on thebackpacking scene recently, and on the other hand, attle controversial, with claims of some companies rippingoff tourists and putting local communities at risk. SaysMark: As long as projects are done right, open andtransparent then we see no reason why supporting

under-privileged schools, elephant villages, a smallndependent NGO in the Northern hill tribes of Chiang Rai,the Cat & Dog population on Koh Samui, the marine lifearound Koh Tao, a locally founded NGO that offers freeeducation and healthcare to 15,000 people in Siem Reap...can ever be negative for either party! If done right, itsa simple win-win! You can read the full interview on our

website - southeastasiabackpacker.com

PRECIOUS OLD MAGS -SEND US YOUR PICS!

Over ve glorious years, we printed 30 copies ofSouth East Asia Backpacker Magazine and there arestill thousands of copies lying about in hostel common

rooms and amidst the piles of mags in cafes andrestaurants. Keep an eye out for these old treasures(you never know they may be worth something one

day!) and be sure to send us a photo of you holdingthe magazine in the place where it was discovered.In this photo our ambassador, Jarryd Salem (of

NOMADasaurus.com) struck gold nding loads of backcopies of S.E.A Backpacker in Phong Nha Farmstay

in Vietnam. Where did you pick up a copy? Email us [email protected] or upload your phototo our Facebook page - Facebook.com/SEABackpacker.

NEW! SLIP N FLY WATERPARK

For many years, crowds have ocked from all overthe world to experience Koh Phangans famous moonparties, all of which took place after dark. Now a newgroundbreaking waterpark has opened to provide daytimeentertainment for those looking to do more than justlaze on the beach until sunset. Slip N Fly held its grandopening party on November 25th 2014, and welcomed a

crowd of over 650 excited people to try out its two, 40meter long slides which toss participants into a 700,000litre pool - the largest on Koh Phangan! From Februaryonwards, therell be ve parties a month, with one familyday for the little ones to get in some slide action forthemselves. Ticket prices will range between 700 1,000baht per party. Limited tickets are available for eachparty, so those wishing to attend are advised to bookonline well ahead of time at - www.SlipNFlyParty.com.

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Life is short and the world is wide.

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InspirationIsland...

FEATURE:

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FF

JoeCummings.

or three days in October last year, I had the pleasure of working withseven aspiring writers as part of the Tropical Writers Workshop on Koh

Phangan, Thailand. A diverse group hailing from Australia, Bangladesh,Belgium, Canada, the UK and the USA - they blew me away with theirpassion and talent.

Here is a spirited collection articles produced by workshop participants.Based on research carried out on Koh Phangan during the workshop, eachcovers a different aspect of island life, whether practical info for travelers,personal accounts or historical investigation.

First off, Macrae Sutton rounds up the best spots for sunset drinks on theisland, while Joe Lane Flaten tracks King Chulalongkorns historic stopovers.Next, Carolann Hughes takes us on a journey into the heart of burger-land - amust read for any homesick burger lover!

After that, Nazia Tariq tackles the persistent rumor that Koh Phangan formedpart of the inspiration for the hit novel and subsequent lm The Beach. Then,Leann McKeown teaches us about green endeavors on Koh Phangan andways you can pitch in and help. Finally, meet a few folks that Chris Foxencountered on the island while tracking his own changes of mood and checkout Mel Lacrombes solid info and useful tips on transport to and around theisland.

Getting paid to enjoy a Southeast Asianisland in order to write about it is a lot

of fun. So, was hanging out on an islandwith new friends, exchanging ideas onthe whys and hows of writing on travel.We hope you enjoy these stories!

Joe Cummings (Renowned TravelWriter & Lonely Planet Author)

...Koh Phangan,

Thailand.

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Top 5 Places for Sunset Drinks:

SS itting, watching the sunset and having a drink; as the skystarts to dim, the sun seem to be more saturated in colour,or it may be that now all your focus is on this gigantic body of re,creating a glow through the clouds, turning them purple and pink.You look above it all and notice something youve never seenbefore: a rainbow mimicking an oil spill in a crystal clear glacierlake upon a mountain.

You realize nothing really matters, not your job, not your grades,not what people are saying on social media only what is in the

here and now. The present. The moment.

The Full Moon Party is world-renowned for its neon body paint,glow sticks and bucket drinks. But when the crowds slowlydissipate and the tranquility is once again restored to the island,there are some astonishing things to be seen that may have beenoverlooked during full moon. The perfect spot to have a drink andcatch one of the best sunsets, painting a picture in the sky beyondimagination is one such thing. Here are my top ve spots to catcha sunset on the island:

Haad Sarikantang (Leela Beach):

Leela beach, with its soft sand, relaxing rope hammocksand mystical mangrove trees, is easily the best beach inThailand to enjoy an unforgettable sunset. At one end of

the beach, you can nd a oating pier that, from land, seems to go

Watch the days raysfadeover the rim of your glass...

on forever reaching into the oceans endless abyss. Sitting at theend of the pier with your favourite drink is the only way to end a daywith perfection.

TIP:Go to the 7-eleven, pick up a couple bottles of your favoritebeer, stick a lime in, head to Leela Beach to spend an inexpensiveafternoon / evening.

...Koh Phangan,Thailand.

By Macrae Sutton

1.

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Haad Yao:

Another stunning beach with pristine water, sprinkled

with contrasting bars and restaurants; one place thatstands out is Seaboard Bungalows. This is a perfect

place to get your party on after watching the sunset, when its raysno longer dominate the sky and the beach is lit by the moon and tikitorches until the early morning.

TIP: On Wednesday nights, the local expat community gathershere for some great music (usually deep house) and some fantasticspecialty drinks.

Ao Playlearn:

When you speak to anyone who has spent somesubstantial time on Koh Phangan, theyll ask if you havebeen to Amstardam Bar. If you havent, you must go.

While not located on a world class beach, it is strategically placedmountainside for the ultimate sunset experience. With a sea oftriangle pillows, mats and even a pool, this is a must-stop locationfor anyone visiting the island.TIP:To insure an unobstructed view, make sure to get here earlyand grab the perfect seat especially in peak season as this spotgets very busy.

Haad Son (Secret beach):

Secret Beach Bar is a little hidden paradise nestled in acove, easily missed by the usual tourist trying to nd thenext party. With its pearl-white sand and stunning views

of the sunset, its a place where you can grab a drink and easily lettime drift away.

TIP: Dont miss the strawberry daiquiris simply amazing and, atjust 120 Baht (like all the other cocktails on the menu), theyre asteal.

Haad Rin Nai:

The sister beach of Haad Rin Nok (where the Full Moon

Party is held) is a place that can satisfy any budget,with its new resorts and old rustic pubs. At Seaside Bar,youll nd a couple triangle pillows upon a mat in the

middle of the beach. Pick a spot, order a drink and treat yourself toa unique sunset that will never be forgotten.

TIP: Stay until dark when the sky becomes illuminated with a blanketof stars. You might be lucky enough to decipher the mysteries of theGods and watch the story of the universe unravel above you.

2.

3.

4.

5.

These top ve sunset drink spots in Koh Phangan are amongst many, where a good cocktail and a sensational sunset can be found.There is more depth to Koh Phangan than its full moon celebrations; its a unique place that is truly magical.

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IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE KING:A Royal Mystery At Sadet Waterfall

By Joe Lane Flaten

BB

esides its famed Dionysian parties not seen since the days ofCaligula, Koh Phangan holds a much more majestic history

for the initiated. Its here that His Royal Highness King Rama V,also known as Chulalongkorn, sojourned a grand total of 14 timesand literally left his mark on this tropical paradise.

Chulalongkorn was a traveler of eminence. During his reign in the

last half of the 19th century, he became the rst Siamese King totravel to the royal courts of Europe and assert his prestige savinghis Kingdom from the degradation of colonial servitude and thelegacy still tasted by Indochine and Burma.

The question begged to be answered why would this great gureof worship and reverence feel compelled to visit this little island sooften, I wondered? The Internet was no help and unfortunately theKoh Phangan Historical Society has not yet been founded. So thedie was cast, the tale must be examined at its source for the Kinghas left clues for generations to follow, including a much-famedcypher inscribed on a rock at a waterfall.

I climb on my cherry red Honda Wave, the tried-and-true rentalcompanion of the weekend adventurer, and armed with GPS, I

glided over majestic hills and into the mountain jungles of Phangan.The air was cool and the beauty of the sea cast its spell. Over thehills I ew in search of Than Sadet Waterfall. For at Than Sadet, liesa royal relic of the Kings, and maybe an answer to my mystery. Therelic is his name, carved upon a large boulder. Its not somethingwidely spoken of within the throngs of the islands party-goers,but its an important artifact for any devotee of The King and Thaihistory.

Signs for the waterfall and the blessedly smooth road provide aneasy gateway to the waterfall area. An imposing statue, surroundedby red roses and tropical plants, lotus ponds and a strangesoundtrack piped over a loudspeaker greeted me. There were nosigns in English to direct the tourists, or, it seemed, no signs at all.Only the far-off droll of a recorded voice, telling a story of what I

couldnt interpret.

I ventured through the cool forest to a very large boulder, which hada small temple for travellers to rest a spell. A gruff monk, speakingin Thai, asked me what I was doing. Luckily, my menu Thai skillsinclude the word for waterfall (nam tok), and I received a graciouspointing gesture from the monk that way.

Across a tree-trunk bridge, which was iffy, and I arrived at theThan Sadet Waterfall. Maybe more like a series of baby waterfalls,or small rapids. Im close to nding the name of Chulalongkorn.Another helpful guide appears. A very kind, smiling monk by thename of Phra Surin has come from his jungle home to tend tomatters, and he asks me where I come from. My new friend and Idrop into small talk before I blurt out my questions. And the answers,

like an almighty stream from great Than Sadet, ows forth. Yes, itis true King Chulalongkorn ventured to this island Phagnan. Butit wasnt for leisure, or for a mystical experience or even the fullmoon.

HRH came for water. Purely a logistical stop on a diplomatic triphe was on to Singapore and Malaysia. You see, the great travelingKing had a majestic steam ship which he piloted around the world.On his way to the Malaysian Peninsula, Koh Phangan provided theperfect stop for more water, because the bay of Than Sadet beachwas deep enough for the royal ship to anchor and send a crewto replenish their water supply. He did however or so it is said develop a keen fondness for the island as a result, and evenbrought bottled water from the island back to his palace.

My questions answered, it was time to continue my own journeyto Koh Samui, then back to Bangkok and beyond. But not beforestopping to see the signature of the King on the boulder. The greatloops and arcane ourishes of his cypher, the grandeur of his visit,it must have been a sight to behold.

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...Koh Phangan,Thailand.

The Veggie Burger:Vintage Burger Friends & Booze, Thong Sala

If beef patties arent your thing, youll want to try Vintage Burger.

While their beef burgers are worth a taste, their veggie burger,made of bean, coriander and carrot topped with cheese, onion,lettuce and homemade sweet chili sauce, is a must-try. Alongsidecrispy, delicious fries, this meal will satisfy any burger craving. Askfor it without cheese to make it a vegan option. A homemade mojitoand chocolate mousse are wonderful ways to round-out the meal.

The Late-Night BurgerHandsome Sandwiches, Thong Nai Pan Noi

A long-time staple, Handsome Sandwiches is located a distancefrom the Full Moon Party but offers to satisfy those burger cravingswhen nothing else is open. Thai-style, the restaurant consists of asmall stall and several tables with a simple fare of burgers, fries and

shakes. The exterior may leave something to be desired but thefood impresses and the prices are reasonable.

The Chicken Schnitzel BurgerMamas Schnitzel, Haad Rin Nok

As the name suggests, Mamas Schnitzel is well-known for itschicken schnitzel. Take those pieces of crispy, tender chicken andturn it into a burger and youve got one mouth-watering, hunger-satisfying meal. In the heart of Haad Rin, its a great place toeat after a day at the beach or while taking part in the Full Mooncelebrations. After indulging in your meal, the restaurant's chocolatebar shakes will quench your thirst and cool you down.

Whether youre craving an all-beef patty, crispy chicken or preferto go vegetarian, Koh Phangan has something to satisfy all yourcravings and when taking your rst bite into that avourful and well-crafted burger, youll be sinking your teeth into a little taste of home.

Homesick forHamburgerS

Where to nd the perfect patty in paradise...By Carolann Hughes

II ts something every backpacker experiences and while youdont know when it will hit, you know its coming. In a placelike the gorgeous island of Koh Phangan, you can get complacent,forget the impending attack. And when it strikes, you may not beprepared. One common afiction of any traveler is the dreaded

food craving. True, Thailand has some amazing food, but whenthose nostalgic I just want a taste of home urges overwhelm, youwont be satised until those cravings are fullled and for many, aburger is the culprit.

Finding good Thai food is easy. Whether its a street vendor, a littleplastic chair restaurant, or a well-known dine-in restaurant, youresure to nd the type of food that puts Thailand on the culinary map.Finding a good burger when the craving strikes however, is tricky.Fortunately, Koh Phangan has tapped into international culinarystyles offering several places that would satisfy any burger fan.

The Gourmet Burger:Crave Restaurant, Haad Yao

For the ultimate burger experience with amazing service, head toCrave restaurant to nd wonderfully blended gourmet avours suchas the deluxe burger with bacon, homemade mayo and brie. Dontforget to switch your side of fries for a poutine as their Thai- versionof the French-Canadian dish is a perfect complement. Happy houris from 5-7pm, where their homemade sangria and marinatedspirits are buy one, get one free.

The Simple Burger:Yummy Restaurant, Haad Rin Nok

Haad Rin Nok is the destination for backpackers looking toexperience the Full Moon Party and fortunately, a great burger

is waiting around the corner. Simple yet well-seasoned, YummyRestaurant offers quality burgers at great prices, served with asmile. Afterwards, satisfy your sweet tooth with their fruit shake androti special only 89 Baht!

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travellers through tales of personal experience, giving the placea reputation for paving the path to enlightenment. Travellers whogathered there for a few days ended up staying for months andyears, while some eventually called it home. They found suchpeace, love and trust amongst one another that they did not want toinvite in any more people, fearing the ow of energy would break.Everyone had a different story, yet everyone was united. A hippiecommunity developed where many yogis, long-stayers, healersand visionaries united. Did they see Garland there, writing on top ofa boulder by the beach?

The manager of The Sanctuary for the last 17 years, Mike, does

not deny it; The Sanctuary has seen many writers and they do notask questions. The Sanctuary is the kind of place where people lostand found themselves renewed. Shh! Dont tell anyone, we used tosay says Mike. Anyone who had been to the sanctuary in the 90sand later read the book or watched the movie, all instantly felt thatit was referring to the Sanctuary.

Joe Cummings, acclaimed travel writer, whom Garland talksabout in his book, says he (Garland) must have heard negativecomments about Lonely Planet from other travellers referring tohow travel guide books were accused of ruining hideaway spotsand increasing tourist trafc, thus exposing secret paradise. TheGatekeeper Syndrome Im through so were closing the gate

I dont think he was trying to expose the Lonely Planet. says Joe.

Joe had been to the Sanctuary and when he read the book he knewimmediately, as he had been there in the mid 80s when it was verylittle known and very much a secret. It was cult-like and they did not

Revisiting The Beach Fiction or Reality?By Nazia Tariq

Was the secret backpackersociety inspired by an

existing place?

TT hailand has always been a popular travel destination, and itwas made even more popular by Alex Garlands bestselling

book The Beach in 1996, later adapted into a popular Hollywoodmovie, visually highlighting specic locations and islands. Accordingto Alex Garland, that is exactly what he had hoped to avoid. Theauthor began his novel in 1993. Three years later, the book wasreleased, and had been translated into 25 languages by 1997.

In the 90s, backpackers travelling to Thailand were not tourists,but rather travellers who had already travelled to India, Cambodia,Vietnam, Indonesia, Philippines and so on. They were passionateabout being on the road to nding themselves, not caring for air

conditioning or hot water: very vibrant, interactive, eccentric andmost held a deep respect for other cultures. Haad Rin beach inKoh Phangan (Thailand) was the centre attraction with the rise ofFull Moon parties. This continued until year 2000 before visitorsbranched out to the different beaches around Koh Phangan, andsettled in as locals.

When asked about the existence of a secret society of backpackers,a British settler who has been living on Koh Phangan for the last23 years says it wasnt really a secret but it was like a hippie trailwhere through word of mouth, Koh Phangan became a destination.Goa had a huge party scene, Kathmandu was a popular destinationand travellers who met there would hear of Koh Phangan, and theisland became a place where they would gather to nd familiarfaces of travelers they had met elsewhere. A community began to

grow.

The Sanctuary, now a spa resort in Haad Tien, Koh Phangan,opened around 1991 and gained in popularity amongst these

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want maps or a mention in the Lonely Planet. I never tracked thisdown, Alex Garland must have talked to someone at the Sanctuaryand they said yeah the Lonely planet guy was through here and wetold him not to put us in the book, and he did.

Garlands book is a work of ction where he largely exaggeratedwhat he experienced and amplied island fever. He imagined theworst that could happen when travellers from the developed worldlive isolated on an island and a dark side to them starts to comeout after all the love and peace of being in paradise wears off. Oneperson may start to get controlling, carried away by the intensity;

another may start backstabbing, and dark secrets may be kepthidden with unfavorable consequences.

Recent frequent travellers and visitors to The Sanctuary consistof celebrities, socialites, corporate heads as well as simple folkslooking to escape the daily routine and relax and often they arepleasantly and overwhelmingly surprised at what they encounter.

Warren, an Australian traveller, describes The Sanctuary aswonderful tribe of like-minded open folk who remain connected tothis place, where yoga gods and goddesses play, he says. Itsbecoming more popular with a less spiritual crowd, more drunken,behaving badly. Though even this scene cannot harm the beautyand fun. Indeed, everyone must have their unique adventure, sealit in or share with the world.

Feed your soulIf cooking with love provides food for the soul, then wed betterensure the ingredients are the most nourishing available. Luckilyfor us backpackers, the people of Koh Phangan have taken thegreen initiative and are preparing a bounty of soul-fullling organicgoodness. Start your healthy holiday eating in either Thong Salaor Sri Thanu to discover stores brimming with organic goods andrestaurants serving a bounty of healthy organic food, much of whichis sourced locally.

Rest easyDepending on the stretch of your backpacker budget, Koh Phanganoffers environmentally-conscious accommodation from minimalistcamping to green resorts catering to your every eco whim. TheTourism Association of Koh Phangan is working with the islandsresorts who have started their own environmentally-consciousinitiatives, from the usual replace as needed rather than daily linenservices, to aiming for self sustainable gardens to supply theirrestaurants.K

K

Koh Phangan

returning to green roots

Koh Phangan Takesthe Environmental

InitiativeBy Leann McKeown

oh Phangan culminates a variety of notions for visitors and thepeople who call the island paradise home; a deeply spiritual

and embracing refuge for some, a hedonistic party place for others.Theres no denying that the islands natural beauty seduces all whosurrender to her charm, yet its exactly this allure that threatensto overcome her. Fortunately for us, the islands inhabitants haverealised the fragility of the magic, and to preserve it they haveintroduced several green initiatives that we can support.

Need an excuse to party?In 2004, a group of expats were playing volleyball on one ofKoh Phangans idyllic beaches when a dolphin washed upon theshore, having succumbed to an inevitably slow death due to adiscarded plastic bag. This tragic incident brought the realizationthat, in order to continue to enjoy their home, they must strive toprotect its cherished natural resources. Green Cross was formed,and together with resort owners, the Mayor of Haad Rin, and theHaad Rin Business Association, they have had many successfulbeach clean-ups. Theyve purchased beach-cleaning machines,employed local people to scour the beach and surrounding areasfor rubbish, and introduced signage and waste disposal bins for usall to use. With many of these initiatives nanced by ticket salesfrom the Full Moon Parties, even the revelers themselves contributeto the environmental cause though they may not know it.

Lets get deepFrom the visible white sands, whether your dance oor or viewfrom your hammock, past the shoreline, and into those deep watersstretched before you, are the reef ecosystems, the sea grassesand the ocean itself - all threatened by overuse and abuse. The

Koh Phangan diving community has their attention rmly focusedon sustainable diving within these waters and have initiated aneducation program for themselves and for the many visitors whocome to enjoy their underwater utopia.

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The next day, I met a wonderful newlywed couple: Carl andTaya. I had met Carl a few years back, but apart from Facebookcomments, we hadn't really stayed in touch. We had a commonpassion - publishing online - but our schedules never matched untilthis course. The island proved to be the mediating force to bring theright people together. It was no surprise then when I met them overlunch and Taya pulled out the exact sort of book I had been lookingfor: Acting Techniques by Michael Powell. It turned out she was anacting coach and acting had become my hobby this year. I wasn'tterribly good at it yet, but we all have to start somewhere. Thanksfor the leads, tropical island breeze!

A few of us climbed the mountain and descended back onto thebeach. Big buckets or freshly-blended shakes in hand, some ofus dancing the limbo on the starlit beach but mostly just laughingharder than we ever had. Back in my bungalow, I lled up thebathtub and let the whole experience soak in. An aromatherapymassage in one of the island's many inexpensive shops gentlykneaded away any remaining stress from my body. I was reborn.

The last week started with another still relatively fresh face on theisland. Adam and I had briey messaged each other a year back.I never met him but he had just exited his job at MTV and startedup his social media company. For the next few days Koh Phanganbecame the nerve centre of travel blogging Thailand. Together withmy team mates I put those skills to good use to jolt the contractorin my Bangkok condo back into action. As we saw the results, a bigsmile erupted on our faces.

We came to the island as strangers, we left as friends, but weremain forever a team, dedicated to each others success.

Koh Phangan,Inspiration Island

II t was Sunday morning, 5am and I had barely nished packing.Woodworking tools and sawdust were strewn all around myliving room. I left my still bare condo in the hands of my friendand wished that upon my return, the contractor I had hired wouldtransform it into my 'home' for the years to come.

I arrived on Koh Phangan around noon. The rain and wind thatbattered the ship felt like a doorway to another world. I had beenhere before, but somehow the island felt different. Maybe it wasme. It had been a tough year and I had been forced to make someimportant changes in my life.

Only a few weeks earlier I had signed up for a writers workshop,to remove any and all excuses for not nishing my book. The teamwas diverse but we clicked right away. Each with our own storiesand reasons, continents apart yet all connected to this point andplace in time.

Kaila, our head coach for the next two weeks, dove right in. Asthe only non-native English participant, grammar nally started tolook interesting! Through fun and games and some hard work, thepieces started to fall into place.

There wasn't a lot of time to fully take in the width and breadth ofthe island, so we found secluded spots on the nearby beaches.Seaside Sunset Bar on Haad Rin Noi proved to be our favourite.We laid down our mats and let our worries drift into the ocean aswe enjoyed the sunset. Happy hour passed on by way too quickly.

The rst week went by, yet I wasn't fully relaxed during the day.Construction at my place in Bangkok had not progressed for daysand my work permit was to be renewed right in the middle ofmy stay on Koh Phangan. Somehow that doorway that the ferrycrossed through had not fully closed! It was truly the people whopulled me through. I decided there and then that nothing wouldsteer me off course.

By Wednesday we had built a very solid bond and got together fora delightful evening at Seaboard Bungalows on Haad Yao Beach.The atmosphere felt surreal with beautiful people, great loungemusic and the most delicious nger food. The legendary JoeCummings one of the instructors on our course - entertained usthroughout the night with his travel stories from around the world.As stars were shooting around the Milky Way, I felt that my luck wasstarting to change.

By Chris Fox

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Traveling To andAround Koh Phangan

By Mel Larcombe

beach town. No driving licencelicense is required (yet). Weara helmet, watch out for sand patches, and don't drink anddrive. Make sure there is enough space between you andthe vehicles ahead, before attempting the hills, which arenumerous and steep on Koh Phangan, particularly aroundHaad Rin.

If you are a rst rst-time learner driver, leave motorbikesto the more experienced riders, and take a songtaew taxiinstead. Taxis are plentiful, and a cheap way to get around theisland (learning a little bit of Thai helps drive the price down).

They go from pier towns to coast coast-side resorts every timea ferry docks. The standard fare from Thong Sala to Haad Rinis 100 baht.

If you are travelling alone, consider taking a motorbike taxi.Look out for skilled riders in yellow, numbered jackets. Ridingpillion on a motorbike taxi is a great way to experience KohPhangan's roads - in relative safety. Motorbike taxis can bemore expensive than songthaew taxis, but easier to haggledown with a smile. If you are heading to The Sanctuary onHaad Tien, take a taxi boat from Haad Rin - or a taxi throughthe steep jungle interior. Taxis leave from Baan Tai to the EastCoast beaches infrequently. Ask at the 7/11 in Ban Taai.

AA

ll arrivals to Koh Phangan are currently by boat. High-speedcatamarans - such as the Lomprayah and Seatran ferry

services - connect Koh Phangan to its neighbouring islands, KohTao and Koh Samui, and to the mainland piers of Donsak andChumphon.

The ancient Raja ferry is like taking a slow boat to China whencompared to high-speed ferries. It is, however, a popular way toarrive from Donsak, often after an overnight train ride from Bangkok.The leisurely hours are spent viewing the Angthong Marine Parkislands as they pass by on the horizon. Alternatively, relax back andcatch a Thai movie blaring out from televisions on deck.

The Haad Rin Queen tugboat has been ploughing the seas forthe last past two decades, and is a journey of wonder in itself. It

is probably the most pleasurable way to arrive on Koh Phangan,especially after landing at nearby Koh Samui airport. The BigBuddha - Haad Rin crossing, at 200 baht per ticket, is still thecheapest ferry route between Koh Samui and Koh Phangan.

All ferry tickets can be bought at the pier upon departure, or atany mainland or island travel agency. Travel in Thailand is normallyso easy you don't have to think about it, and the islands are noexception. There is always somebody to point you in the rightdirection, and help you buy a ticket to your next destination.

The freedom of a motorbike ride is a simple pleasure of life onKoh Phangan. Visitors can nd motorbikes for rent at in every

WW

Tropical WritersWorkshop Hits

Koh Samui!ould you like to take part in the the Tropical Writers

Workshop, and learn from instructors who are amongthe best in their elds globally, all on a beautiful tropical islandin Thailand? Join travel writing legend Joe Cummings, socialmedia guru Adam Sharpe, and web developer extraordinaireCarl Heaton, along with a fun group of students eager tolearn how to become a travel writer with it all. Students willleave with their own website, a published article as part ofour Koh Samui feature in this magazine (May/June 2015issue), a killer social media strategy, an action-plan for howto make money while travelling, and a host of other skills thatwill help make them more marketable as writers.

The next Tropical Writers Workshop will be held at AlsResort on Chaweng beach, Koh Samui, March 1-15, 2015.Prices start from $1080 USD for the entire course, inclusive

of full tuition, 14 days' accommodation (based on a sharedroom), breakfast, access to two beautiful pools, a spa, andmuch more. Find out more here:www.TropicalWritersWorkshop.com

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WORD ON THE STREET:

10 BUCKET LIST

DESTINATIONS OF 2015!

Graphic by Laura Davies

If you could travel toone place this year

where would it be?

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Nope, not to sightsee bustling Yangon, the former capital, nor tooat on hyacinth-coated Inle Lake. Okay, all of these sights areworth seeing (except Nay Pyi Taw), but rural Pah-Oh villages inthe centrally located Shan State are what you need to see. NOW!

Spoiler alert

Tourists already trek here. It cant be completely untouched if its inLonely Planet, right?

By Clare Gallagher

TT here couldnt be a riper time to visit Myanmar. The volatilecountry is begging for a tourism invasion after the Septemberintroduction of an online e-visa.

Where To Go?

You shouldnt plan a trip to roam the military-created ghost townof a capital, Nay Pyi Taw, which recently hosted USA.s PresidentObama for the annual East Asia Summit. Nor to bicycle throughthe globally recognized pagoda-spotted plains of Bagan at sunrise.

MYANMAR:

BEFORE ITS TOO LATE

DESTINATION

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The 60-km route goes from the sleepy mountain town of Kalaw toheavily visited Inle Lake, or vise versa. Hiring a guide is easy, and itcosts a pittance compared to similar-quality treks around the world.

Each person in my group - a 33-year-old Spanish cardiologist, afellow 23-year-old English teacher in Thailand and I - paid $38

USD for three days, including food, luggage transfer and a long-tailboat ride when we reached Inle Lake. Santosh, our young guide ofmixed Nepali and Burmese descent, spoke close to uent English,though this is not always the case.

In terms of trip feasibility, this is not frigid, high altitude Nepalitrekking with heavy backpacks, nor tropical, leech-ridden Borneobushwhacking. At a mid altitude (approximately 1,000 meters), withbearable heat and cool nights for Southeast Asia, suffering is notin the description. It is done in two or three days, covering rollingpaths and dirt roads. It is comfortable crop viewing at its nest.

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Why So Special?

The bucolic farmlands and traditional lifestyles of Pah-Oh hill tribeshave existed mostly unchanged for the past millennium. Save forthe occasional rusty motorbike - most vehicles in Myanmar lookleftover from WWII (because they are) - and the periodic roadsidemini-mart that sells packaged goods, there are few signs of thedeveloped world. These are the romanticized hill tribe communitieswe fantasize about: the kind that lack infrastructure, but stillblissfully exist without debilitating poverty.

On my groups trek, ridgeline panoramas stopped us cold.Undulating plots swap between terraces of kelly green mountainrice and uorescent green water rice - the type of green in childrens

science kits. Dense rows of mauve sesame plant blossoms, chilies,pumpkins, potatoes and white carrots add to the organized mosaic.Wood ox carts puncture the fertile earth, operated by weathered,sinewy longyi-wearing men (the traditional Burmese cloth skirt wornby both genders). Think of a colour and its visible either in a cropor in a traditional headscarf worn by the strikingly beautiful Pah-Ohwomen. Hours of walking left me so peaceful that I would oftenforget to take a photo, never mind remember that Facebook evenexists.

Of course, seasons matter and trekkers cannot see every crop at

once; the dry season (November April) vastly differs from the wetseason. October felt ideal, as we evaded major rains, but the earthwas still well hydrated.

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Preserved Traditions

Theres been a steady trickle of tourists since 2011, when a civiliangovernment took ofce and tourism was no longer discouraged.This introduced the outside world to the Pah-Oh, but tourismhasnt altered their traditional livelihoods, unlike Myanmars tourist-catering neighbor, Thailand.

While we passed women carrying bamboo baskets heavy withproduce, or monks bathing in a stream next to a monastery,invariably, the Pah-Oh people smiled at us. Some Pah-Oh went

so far to say mingalaba (hello in Burmese), but most individuals,including children, only speak a Pah-Oh dialect. This didnt stopthem from waving, often from elds away.

Uninterested in blonde Americans and North Face equipment,they still welcomed our presence. One cattle herder, not older than15, brought a bull closer to us when he saw my friend strugglingto frame a shot. And since tourists have yet to replace cattle andcrops, we observed without feeling, or being, intrusive.

The three-day trek allows for one night in a village. Our group sleptin a designated guestroom: half of a familys raised, woven bamboohut, above a years supply of drying garlic. Santosh cooked us chili-avored local meals over res in an unventilated hut, just as thevillage women do.

We spent our second night at a monastery led by an impressive 24-year old head monk. He was in charge of an uncountable numberof novice monks, constantly skipping across the courtyard andadjusting their too-big maroon robes. Prior to sunrise, we gaped atthe motley crew of boney, but clearly nourished, novices dutifullyperforming chores.

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What Is The Rush?

The urgency of this trek is rooted in events unrelated to the Pah-Oh. In September of this year, Myanmars government introducedan online e-visa option for tourists. Approved within ve days, thee-visa costs $50 USD for a 28-day stay, and is accepted at theinternational airports in Yangon, Mandalay or Nay Pyi Taw and issoon-to-be accepted at four overland crossings with Thailand.

In October, the e-visa was extended to tourists from an additional24 countries, adding to the original 43 countries. The e-visa alone

makes the 2012 government-created Tourism Master Plan goalof 3 million foreign visitors by 2015 and 7.5 million by 2020 notout of the question. Which is remarkable considering that the 1.06million tourists in 2012 and 2.04 million in 2013 were consideredimpressive gures after tourism stopped being discouraged in 2011.

I arrived with my e-visa in Yangon on October 2nd, stunned at howsmooth the immigration process was. Myanmar is clearly preppingfor the onslaught.

But the Pah-Oh arent prepping for anything. Which is why now isthe sweet spot to visit, before the single-track paths bear queues ofhungover backpackers, or before the elds succumb to hotels, orbefore villages modernize solely to accommodate more touriststhe tourists that paradoxically seek a glimpse of the huts pre-electricity.

You guessed it, Im already planning my next trek.

Writers note: Myanmar has signicant problems with politicalcorruption and human rights injustices. Presidential elections

are slated for next year and a win for the National League forDemocracy is desperately needed to begin ameliorating thetreatment of various ethnic minorities including the Rohingya of theeastern Rakhine State.

About the Writer:Clare Gallagher is a Colorado native and graduated from Princetonin 2014 with a degree in Ecology and Evolutionary Biology. Sheis currently teaching English in Southern Thailand and lling herbreaks with South East Asian travels!

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DESTINATION:

TT

o the casual traveller, Kuala Lumpur, capital

of Malaysia (and KL to everyone that lives

there), may not seem to have as much to offer when

compared to other major cities in the region. It may

not be packed with massive temples and Buddha

statues like Bangkok, or possess the ashiness of

Singapore.

However, KL is a buzzing, sprawling metropolis,

a miss mash of so many different cultures and a

young, vibrant and VERY international population.

All of these give it a great, unique edge over its

neighbours. There is pretty much always something

happening in KL, to suit everyones tastes. And with

a little help you can discover these treasures for

yourself.

THE ALTERNATIVE

GUIDE TO KL

So take this short guide as an introduction to the

city and its many delights - delights that you wont

read in any guidebook! If youre in Kuala Lumpur for

more than a couple of days and are looking for an

alternative to the major attractions then be sure to

check some of these out...

By Conor Walsh

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GETATATTOO

Formanypeople,agreattravelta

ttooistheultimatesouvenir.Iam

verymuchoneofthosepeople.H

owever,mostofmytattooscome

from one studio: PinkTattoos (

www.facebook.com/PinkTattoos)

intheBangsarneighbourhoodof

KL.Theyrealsobyfarmybest

work.

RunbytheawesomeLyndaChen

,PinkTattooseschewtheusual

Asiatattoo studio aesthetic of either

dark and grungy or crusty,

wannabe Rastafor something much morefun.The spa

ce is a

reection of Lynda andthe gan

gs personalities: quirky, colourf

ul

andtotallyobsessedwithowls.Th

isisalsotrueoftheirdesigns,

whichhavesomefantasticcolourin

gandincredibledetailing.

Wheretofndit:PinkTattoos

areonJalanTelawi,justaroundt

he

cornerfromBangsarVillageShopp

ingCentre.Youcangetataxito

thestudiofromBangsarLRTstatio

nforRM4($1.25).

TRYMALAYSIASNATIONALBURGER

Malaysians,asapeople,arecompletelyobsessedwithfood.Whichisunderstandablewhenyouconsiderthesheerrangeandqualityonofferfromall thedifferentethnicgroups that livehere. But inbetweenalltheIndian,Malayandotherworldcuisinesthereis

an

unsungheroofMalaysianstreetfood:TheRamlyBurger.Theyredelicious,cheapandapointofnationalprideformanyMalaysians.Ramly Burger stands can be found across the city, but no two

stands are ever the same.Where asmost fast food restaurantsstriveforanidenticalproductfromeveryfranchise,Ramlyburgerspridethemselvesoneachstandgivingtheburgersauniquetwist.AndsoitisthatmanyKLresidentswillfrequentoneindividualstandaboveallothers theirwhole lives,condent that theyhave foundthebestinthecity.

Wheretofndit:ThestandsaredottedalloverthecityandwhilesomemovearoundthereisapermanentoneatthesouthendofJalanAlor(themainfoodstallstreetfortourists)aswellanyofthegardensandparksinthecity.Justlookoutforthered,yellow

and

greenstalls.

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GO FOR AN OLD

SCHOOL SHAVE

Going for a shave at a mens salon in Brickelds, KLs Little India, is like steppingnto an odd time capsule. With their mix of Hindu kitsch, worn out 80s styleposters and 60s furniture they are a throwback to a time when the salon was aplace for men to socialise as much as the local pub. Except that at the pub, youmight still have some women hanging around.

ts not just the decor that is old school at these places: they still use single blade,sheer razors and shaving cream with a brush and a hot towel. Its rare youll gethis experience these days without paying for the novelty value. In KL it will setyou back just $2 USD.

Where to nd them: Most of the barbers are dotted along Brickelds mainstreets, just look out for the red and white candy canes. There is also one in

Chinatown on the corner of Jalan Hang Katsuri, opposite Central Marketshopping centre.

LEARNTOSWING

There isathriving,vibrantcontem

porarydancescene inKL,cateri

ng

foralmostanystyleand levelof

experience.Everynightofthew

eek,

inbarsacrossthecitytherearec

lasses,workshopsanddancesoci

als

foreverythingfromSalsatoHipH

op.ThemostfunbyfarisKLSwi

ng!

(www.klswing.com),agroupded

icatedtoswingmusic,swingdanc

ing

andtheLindyhop.Swingdancingi

salsoarelativelyeasytolearndan

ce

style,thefocusmu

chmoreonfunandenergythante

chnicalskill.

Aswellasregularsocialevents,KL

Swing!alsohostfreeweeklyclasses,

foralllevels.Theteachersaregre

atfunandverypatientandattenti

ve.

Andtheregularslovehavingnew

peopletojoinin.Soevenifitsyo

urrst

night,andyouveneverdancedbe

foreinyourlife,expecttobedragg

ed

outonthedanceoorforaswing

.

Wheretofndit:KLSwing!h

oldweeklyfreeclassesforbeginn

ersat

SidsPubinSouthBangsar.Thep

ubisashortwalkfromUniversitiL

RT

stop,justupthehilltotheright.

SEEKOUT

STREETART

KL has a big culture of street art, which can be seensprayedacrossmanyof theslightly ruinedoldbuildingsinChinatown,anddownmost of itsalleyways.The localgovernment has also embraced, for the most part, thisburgeoning art scene and the citys many parks andgardensoftenhostexhibitionsforlocalartists.

Not all of the pieces are quite so welcomed by thegovernment however. Malaysians are a very politicallychargedpeople,constantlyon the receivingendof theirgovernments corruption and inefciency. Naturally thisshines through on much of the street art in the capital.It canbegreat funseekingout theangrierof theseandtryingtodiscernthepolitical messagesbehindt

hem.Where to fnd it: Pretty much any of the citysneighbourhoods except maybe Bukit Bintang. Thereisplentyalong thebanksof theKlang river andold rundownbuildings inChinatown.LakeGardensinBrickeldssometimesholdsoutdoorexhibitions.

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GO FOR AN

OLYMPIC

SIZED SWIMKL can get pretty hot and humid at times, and if it hasntrained in while it can be downright suffocating. So afteran afternoon of sightseeing in the sweltering heat,youre going to want to cool down. You could do like the

Malaysians do and hang out at the numerous shoppingmalls. Or, a little more fun, head to the outdoor pool at ChinWoo Stadium (www.timeout.com/kuala-lumpur/things-to-do/chin-woo-stadium).

The pool is olympic sized, sat on a hill overlookingChinatown and a short walking distance from most of thehostels there. It also has a small cafe and plenty of spaceto sun bath, read a book and enjoy a quiet oasis in themiddle of the busy city. The sunsets arent bad either.

Where to nd it:Chin Woo Stadium is located on a smallhill just south of Chinatown. Walk along Jalan Sultan, atthe back of Petaling Street and turn the corner up the hill.The stadium is on the right.

ROCK

CLIMBINGAT

BATUCAVESBatu Caves are the most sacred place in PeninsularMalaysia for the countries Hindu population. Within thecavesareanumberofshrinesand temple

s, thebiggestsittingatopaight272steps,guardedontheoutsidebyamassivestatueof LordMurugan,towhomthecavesarededicated.BatuCavesisalsohometheannualThaipusamFestival,somethingthatneedstobeseentobebelieved!

Asidefromthereligioussites,BatuCavesisalsohometosomegreatrockclimbing.Thecavesarepart ofamassiveoutcropof limestone,ashighas150m.Thereareover100routesscatteredalongtherocksforall levels,butmostofthebestarefoundatDamaiCavestothenortheastof themainshrines.

Wheretofndit:BatuCavesare13kmoutsideof KualaLumpur.TheycanbeaccessedbybusfromCentralMarketin Chinatown or on the KTM train li

ne from KL Sentraltransit station. Ittakes45-60minutes.Whileexperiencedclimbersmight like tobring theirgearandfnd theirownroutes, there are a number of adventure companiesofferingcoursesandguidesinthearea.

About the writer:

Conor Walsh is the guy behind the website, www.escapingthemainstream.com,where he writes about everything from long term travel and working on the road,to his love of street food and Cambodian rock nroll. Follow him on Facebook(escapingthemainstream), or Twitter (@EscapeTheMain.

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PHOTOS:

Life on the Tonle Sap

CambodiaBy Jen Seiser

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AA favourite and lesser-known stop while touringSoutheast Asia is the Tonl Sap of Cambodia. ThisUNESCO heritage site recognizes the largest freshwaterlake in the entire Asian region. If you happen to be visiting

Angkor Wat, this is an exciting day trip excursion fromSiem Reap.

Naturally, this destination is unique because of the watercomposition. Fresh and saltwater tributaries reverse thedirections of their waterow at various times of the yearcreating an unlikely ecosystem. Culturally, this destination

is unique because of the way its people live- right abovethe water.

After an exciting tuk-tuk ride down a very weathereddirt road to the launch site, take a stunning (and veryinexpensive) boat ride through the regions oatingvillages. On the Tonl Sap, locals do everything on and inthe water. As you meander around the area you will seeshermen, schools, churches, and many homes forming asuspended community.

While here, enjoy lunch in a stilted kitchen over the waterwhere kids swim and play. The people of this region arekind and vibrant despite the Tonl Sap being still verymuch developing economically.

The disparity between this part of Cambodia and larger thecities is apparent, however the environment is charmingand extremely authentic feeling. This special place canbe an incredible experience that nicely contrasts the morebeaten tracks of Cambodias other hot spots. Be sure tocatch a glimpse of the Tonl Sap if you make it to this partof the world!

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About the photographer:Jen Seiser a designer and lifetimeexplorer. While traveling she strives toexperience the world in an intimate wayoff the beaten track interacting withpeople and places via colors, textures,pictures, patterns, products andemotions. Follow her travel adventureson Instagram @thejourneynotes andcheck out details of other destinationson her travel blog, The Journey Notes.(thejourneynotes.com)

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FESTIVALS & EVENTS:

in the sea from dusk til dawn.Expect shenanigans aplentyon a whole beach jam-packedwith bars and stages blastingout a varied selection of music,including house, drum&bass,psy-trance and chart tunes.

Half Moon FestivalBaan Tai, Koh Phangan13th, 28th Jan14th, 26th Feb

Taking place one week beforeand one week after the FullMoon Party, the Half MoonFestival showcases theislands nest resident DJswith regular special guestappearances, all playing aneclectic mix of tech house,progressive beats andpsychedelic trance. This

large, professional, all nightdance event is set amidst thebrilliantly atmospheric settingof the Baan Tai Jungle with ahuge sound system, uniqueUV illuminations, re dancersand live visuals! And theres an

extra party on Valentines Day- so get yourself down thereand get a Valentine Kiss!

Black Moon CultureBaan Tai, Koh Phangan19th Jan, 17th Feb

Peace, Trance, Dance thesethree words are the drivingforce behind the famous BlackMoon Culture party. Thisawesome gathering takesplace on the sandy whitebeach at Macs Bay Resort

in Baan Tai each month atthe Black Moon. Expect anight lled with great dcor,live visuals, and the latestand freshest progressive andpsychedelic trance brought toyou by Thai and International,resident and guest DJs. Onefor dedicated party ends.

Full Moon PartySunrise Beach,Haad Rin, Koh Phangan4th Jan, 3rd Feb

The most famous beach partyin the world? The Full MoonParty takes place on HaadRin Beach, Koh Phanganeach month on the night of theFull Moon. Legend has it that

the whole thing started with agroup of backpackers playingguitars and singing on thebeach to celebrate someonesbirthday, but these days itsa full-blown, debaucherousmish-mash of body paint,fancy dress, and up to 30,000people drinking buckets,dancing, partying and playing

Jungle ExperienceBaan Tai, Koh Phangan(1 day and 10 daysbefore every FullMoon Party)

One of the original undergroundgatherings on Koh Phangan,this magical ower garden islocated deep in the jungle witha mountain stream leading youto the stunningly decorateddanceoor. Be enchanted

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JAN - FEB 2014by the lush tropical garden,magical UV decorations, laser& light installations. Famousfor its amazing atmosphere inthe morning when the sun risesover the mountain backdropilluminating the natural beauty

of the location & bringingsmiles to faces. Undergroundhouse & techno. InternationalDJs. Jungle welcomesdancers, performance artists& entertainers from around theworld. Professional costume& body painting & re showperformance. The Ancient Artof Muay Thai Arena.*Also see- Sramanora Waterfall Party,Shiva Moon Party, Loi LayFloating Bar Party, Ku Club,Pirate Moonset Party, Oasis,Mer Ka Ba, Guys Bar & Eden.

DO SOMETHING

AMAZING!We need volunteers to help at our

Happy Animal Sterilisation& First Aid Centre

on the island of Koh Lanta in Thailand.Youll help to look after our cats and dogs

- stay for a month and we offerfree accommodation!

www.lantaanimalwelfare.com

& Facebook

ThaipusamMalaysia17th Jan

Thaipusam is one of thelargest and most extravagantHindu Festivals in Asia andis celebrated by millions offollowers worldwide. Held inhonour of Lord Murugan, alsoknown as Lord Subramaniam,Kuala Lumpur and Penang

are two of the most colourfulplaces to observe thefestivities, in particular at theBatu Caves on the outskirtsof KL. Its a truly incrediblespectacle to witness:participants perform incredibleacts of devotion as they offerthanks to the Lord for goodfortune during the year. Feats

including the piercing of bothbody and face with skewers,dragging chariots with hooksattached to the skin, as well ashuge metal frames (kavadis)that are fastened to the bodyand carried along. Some

devotees become entranced,entering meditative statesduring the procession whichis traditionally believed tocleanse them of their sins.

Chinese New Year(of the Horse!)All South East Asia19th Feb

Chinese New Year (alsoknown as the Spring Festival)is a massive event thatis celebrated by Chinese

communities all over theworld. Lasting for 15 dayswith unique celebrations andrituals taking place on eachday, traditionally its a timefor families to get together,exchange gifts and eat lots

of delicious food! Homes arecleaned for the welcomingof spring, oral decorationsand red paper lanterns areraised. Children are givengifts of money in lucky redenvelopes and adults see itas a time to settle old debtsand start afresh. Today, incities, towns and villages allthroughout South East Asia,a festive atmosphere lls theair. Colourful dragon and lionparades take to the streets,

PickoftheMonth!

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FESTIVALS & EVENTS:

means The Feast of theFirst Morning. Derived fromthe Chinese New Year andcelebrated at the same time,Tet Nguyen Dan also marksthe beginning of spring again, just the Chinese NewYear celebrations. In fact,the rituals and festivities arevery similar to Chinese NewYear in terms of their focuson family reunions and theconcept of starting afresh. InHanoi, Ho Chi Minh City andother cities, youll nd streetparties and parades; marketstalls bustling with peoplebuying decorations, food,clothes and stocking up ongoods in preparation. All nightdrumming and reworks alsomake this an extremely noisy,lively and high-spirited eventto experience!

Victory DayPhnom Penh,Cambodia7th Jan

A national holiday establishedto commemorate the end of theKhmer Rouge regime in 1979,Victory Day marks this veryimportant date with a series ofcultural shows and exhibitionswhich pay homage this verydark part of Cambodiashistory. A gathering is heldin Phnom Penh to mark themomentous event of thefall of the Communist Partyof Kampuchea (the KhmerRouge), and thousands ofpeople participate in thisyearly event to rememberthose who sadly perished inthe genocide.

folks at home a heart attackand tie the knot in a trulyunique way at the veryspecial Underwater WeddingCeremony just off Pak MengBeach in Trang, Thailand.Held over Valentines Day,couples dressed in thetraditional Thai-wovenwedding costumes plunge 12metres beneath the water to

perform this innovative maritalceremony and (somehow)exchange bubbly vows.

Makkha BuchaThailand and LaosFull Moon - Feb

Taking place on the night ofthe Full Moon in February,Makkha Bucha is a festivalwhich commemorates aninspirational speech given bythe Buddha during whichhe dictated the rst monasticrules to a group of over onethousand enlightened monks and also prophesised hisown death. Grand paradesand the circling of Wats

(Temples) with candles takeplace in many towns acrossthe country, particularly inLaos capital Vientiane and inthe Khmer ruins of Wat Phu,Champasak. Religious musicand chanting can be heardfrom worshippers during thissacred Buddhist festival.

The Giant PuppetParadeSiem Reap,Cambodia21st Feb

This is a Cambodian childrenscommunity arts project thatinvolves various communityorganizations, and providesa creative platform for SiemReaps disadvantaged

children to foster andpromote expression and self-condence through art. Nowentering its eighth year, thegiant puppets created by thechildren (under the guidanceof student artists and theprojects Artistic Director fromPhare Ponleu Seplak, nearbyBattambang) make for a sightnot to be missed when theymarch through the city streetson the evening of the annualparade!

Also interesting andeducational, the variousthemes include local culture,environmental awareness andinformation on hygiene issues

and the countrys endangeredspecies. Last year, nearly600 children from numerouslocal schools, orphanagesand street kid centres tookpart alongside those childrenfrom a nearby shelter for childlandmine survivors.

Trang UnderwaterWedding FestivalTrang, Thailand13th 15th Feb

Met the love of your life whilst

backpacking? Why hesitate amoment longer? Spontaneityis the way to go. Give your

dancing to the rhythm ofbeating drums and cymbalswhich are said to drive awayany evil spirits. Fireworks andrecrackers can be heardfor weeks in celebration ofthis signicant time. Chinese

temples are blanketed byclouds of incense smokeas people pray for goodfortune in the New Year.Bangkok, Penang and KLare great places to witnessthe festivities, take in culturalperformances and gorge onthe huge variety of food anddrink that line the streets towelcome the Year of the Goatpredicted to be an honest yearwhere people join together!

Bun Pha VetLaosJanuary

Bun Pha Vet is an importantBuddhist Festival and asignicant time of the yearfor friends and family in Laosto gather together. Tales ofBuddhas penultimate lifeas Prince Vessantara arerecited throughout templesacross the country, and itsconsidered a favourable timefor Laotian Men to be ordainedinto Monkhood. (His nalincarnation was as PrinceSiddhartha, who went on toreach enlightenment and thusbecoming Buddha).

Tet Nguyen DanVietnam31st Jan

The Vietnamese celebratethe New Year with a threeday public holiday TetNguyen Dan, which literally

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Shambhala inYour Heart

Northern Thailands BestMusic Festival (Feb 2015)

SS hambhala (noun): A mystical kingdom hiddensomewhere in Inner Asia; a Buddhist pure landwhose reality is visionary or spiritual as much as physical orgeographic.

The secrets of Shambhala are well guarded and it isimpossible for anyone to reach it unless they are called.

Teepees dotting the green eld, prayer ags blowing in theincense-heavy breeze and happy people paddling in the stream Shambhala in Your Heart 2014 was a beautiful festival and its onagain in 2015 yeah!

Next February 6th 15th, rent a motorbike and drive 70km north

of Chiang Mai up to Chiang Dao for an unforgettable adventure.Chiang Dao is a gorgeous corner of Thailand with toweringmountains, lush countryside, reies, caves, hot springs andgolden temples hidden in the misty forests. Youll nd Shambhalain Your Heart at the base of the lofty Doi Luang mountain.

Shambhala in Your Heart festival was started a few years ago by agroup of friends from Japan, France and Thailand. It has evolvedto attract more and more environmentally-conscious, self-reectivevisitors wanting to kick back and relax in a spiritual enclave of open-mindedness under the Doi Luang mountain.

This festival offers a unique experience amongst Thailandsmore infamous parties. Festival-goers take their kids, use onlyorganic things and take musical instruments there are plenty of

opportunities to jam. The tiny festival charges just 100 baht entryper day at the gates and promotes intercultural communication andthe beauty of a simple life for all, free from greed, destruction andwar.

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There are plenty of events and experiences to nourish the soul atShambhala. You could listen to a talk about the environment or takepart in a few yoga, dance, art, poetry and meditation events in thesunshine.

As a happy contrast to the usual food available at festivals, thereisnt a dodgy burger van in sight! The home-made food is awesomeand pleases a healthy crowd with organic sweet treats, herbal teas,raw dishes, juices, BBQ, cheap Thai food and booze. Shambhalawould be a great place to explore an alternative way of eating.

At night, live bands from all over the world play an eclectic mixof music. My favourite musicians last year were a pair of intenseJapanese guys playing crazy tunes on guitars with a load of effectspedals. They were introduced in Japanese, but Im pretty sure thatthey were called Ten Cape Hepopo look out for them in 2015.They took us on an emotional journey - one moment super happyska; the next moment the soundtrack to an apocalypse; the nextinto dark depths of despair and back again. Powerful.

Festival goers are friendly and welcoming; a smile is all it takes tostrike up conversation. Anyone can go, and the divides betweencultures dissolve as people from all over the world gather tosocialise, learn and dance.

You can take hand-made crafts to sell for no extra cost but

you cant sell food or drink. Theres a whole array of weird andwonderful stuff to buy like crystal jewellery, dream catchers andtrippy renderings of rainbow cats.

Doi Luang Youth Camp hosts the event and youre welcome to bringyour tent and camp for the whole festival, but remember to bring aplate, cup, cutlery, blanket and sleeping bag too it gets cold atnight (really!). If youre not camping, book your accommodation inChiang Dao as early as possible to avoid disappointment. Popularchoices nearby are Chiang Dao Nest 1 and 2 and Chiang Dao Hut.

Check out Shambhalas facebook page to keep up to date withfestival details at facebook.com/shambhalafestival.See you there?

Review by Amy Burbridge: For more insider tips on living and

travelling in and around Chiang Mai, check out her blog:www.mychiangmaieverything.com.

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WW

SOUL SEARCHER

hether youre traveling with a partner, have left one behind,or are in post ing recovery, heres our guide to traversing the

highs and lows of your heart on the road.The Infamous Traveller Romance

I could write SO much about this one! Its one of those unmissableexperiences for the seasoned backpacker. The intensity of theseencounters is unique, and they have a strong tendency to beenthralling and all-encompassing; usually burning bright for just afew magical weeks, then ending just as quick as they started.

Heres where The Art Of Letting Go comes in.

Im sure that spending time glued to a computer, pretending notto stalk said person on social media isnt what you came travelingfor! It takes time to separate, and when the connections were

so intense, its like being on a drug. Theres cold turkey time togo through as you move on. When we connect with people weliterally develop energetic chords between us and they take timeto dissipate.

With this in mind, a great exercise is to visualise the person inyour minds eye. Thank them for the experiences you had withthem, recognise their qualities and wish them well. Then feel intoyour heart and send your love towards them. Even if you didntactually love them, just send as much pure love as you can. A quickexercise would be to list all the qualities you appreciated about theperson. What did you learn about yourself in the process? Whatwould you do differently next time? This will help to dissolve anyentanglements or disgruntlements and leave you clearer. This ofcourse doesnt mean you never want to see or be in contact again.

On the contrary, it just leaves you both clear and helps give closure.

Travelling With A Partner

Of the major experiences to test a relationship, travelling togetheris one. If looked upon as an opportunity for rapid learning, it canbecome a rich ground for self-development. Its really helpful tocommunicate openly about each others goals, reasons for travelingand requirements before setting out. This seems simple, but Ivemet many couples who havent discussed this, then end up in asticky mess later, in wondering why things have suddenly changed.Spending so much time together puts pressure on, so here aresome tips on staying in a healthy relationship as you journeytogether: Talk about your individual hopes and dreams before you go

and keep checking in along the way. Be aware of being exclusive as a couple. Include single

people in your group, have nights out alone, try to easeyourselves into spending 24/7 together slowly.

It really is ok to take time-out; you could agree to meet at thenext destination, each making your own way there. This helps

give a variance of experience as well as give some distance.It basically takes the pressure off.

Learn the art of negotiation. Remember that it really will testanyones patience to go around the 30th Buddhist templewhen theyd really like to be getting to that Full Moon party!

Both of you are likely to be going through a period of rapid change,so your relationship dynamics will naturally jostle and change. Itjust isnt going to be like it was back home. Youre likely to arguemore. Try to keep in mind that its a natural process of growth asyou both evolve individually; your relationship will change too. Iveseen many people hanging on to how things used to be and thisin itself causes suffering. Your relationship will never be the sameonce you put that backpack on!

If you get to the point where you break up whilst youre traveling,my absolute top tip is dont panic. Your rst instinct may be to gohome. Id really strong advice against it. This is your opportunity todo something spontaneous and unexpected... to go your own way.Making decisions when were upset or scared doesnt generallyturn out so well. So an effective thing to do is not make any quickdecisions. Try to wait three days before taking action take goodcare of yourself in the meantime, and really try not to panic. Youmay also be really relieved to split up. In that case, go for it! Wishthe person well as much as you can and move forwards with a clearhead. The empty path awaits your curious footsteps..

After A Break-Up

No matter who ended things, a relationship split can be really

painful. Really, the best tip I can give you is to simply take one dayat a time. Heartache does pass. Theres a period of mourning forwhat could have been, and that that has been lost. Its natural tobe upset, or indeed relinquished of something that was no longerworking.

Its really helpful if you dont stalk their Facebook page! - orindeed post lots of pics of yourself doing cool stuff to showhow marvellously (not) youre doing without them.

Give yourself space and time to heal. Dont jump straight intoanother relationship. It only delays the process of grieving.In fact makes it harder to connect, as those emotions will bebubbling away underneath.

Try to stop thinking if only he/she would change - everythingwould be alright. This is a common illusion. It takes two to

make or break a relationship. Accepting how things are right now helps tremendously. A

great Buddhist teaching, Resistance to the present momentis the root of all suffering is very apt in matters of the heart.

By Jarryd Salem

Better Together?Melanie Swan works with travelers to facilitate

deep healing and transformation for the

Heart, Body and Soul. She has over 11 years'

experience and has traveled extensively.

Check out www.energyhealingsoul.com for

more info and her special Skype package

for backpackers. Send your questions to

[email protected] and get them

answered in forthcoming issues.

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FEATURE

4 ESCAPES FROMCHIANG MAI

AA

re you headed to Chiang Mai in search of adventure?If you want to swim in a river, hike in a forest and spot

Thai wildlife, check out these off-the-beaten-track NationalParks that few tourists visit. Youll have to drive yourselfor hire a private driver to get to these destinations, astheyre so rarely on visitors itineraries. Remember to takenecessary camping provisions with you, but dont take toomuch stuff! Hauling a heavy backpack in hot weather sucks.It can get cold at night, so take blankets.

By Amy Burbridge.

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1. Doi Khun Tan National Park:a self-led hike up a mountain

A vast teak, bamboo, oak and pine forest covers the Khun TanMountain in this little-visited national park. The forest shelterswildlife such as the Siamese hare, porcupine, weasel and wildboar, but hikers are much more likely to see a few bright butteries,colourful insects and exotic orchids.

Surprisingly, this national park is home to the longest train tunnel inThailand! The 6km trail to the top of the mountain is mostly shadedby trees and easy to hike. There are viewpoints and rest stops at

regular intervals and hide under a huge banana leaf if it rains! Youcan go the 12km up and back down the trail in a day if you leaveChiang Mai early, but sleeping overnight far from the city lights is arewarding experience.

Make it happen: The 1.5 hour journey takes you past hills, stallsselling fresh fruit and farmers working in the rice paddies. The wayis signposted well when you get nearby. After you get through thecheckpoint and have paid your entrance fee (100 baht), drive pastthe restaurant and up, up, up to the car park. Walk past the jovialguards in military uniform sitting at the trail-head and follow the trailall the way up to the top of Peak 4.

Overnight campers should take a tent or book a hut before going.The huts sleep two nine people (500 - 2200 baht a night). Book

online at goo.gl/3VrA1V. The simple restaurant at the bottom isopen in high season.

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2. Doi Suthep Camping:a mountain retreat

above the city

This is a romantic getaway for two (or three, we wont judge)people in love, or a fun trip out of the city for a group of fr

south east asia backpacker issue 34.pdf

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