shaving. 1.backhand stroke: razor position and stroke used in 4 of the 14 basic shaving areas 2,6,8...
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SHAVING
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1.Backhand Stroke: Razor position and stroke used in 4 of the 14 basic shaving areas 2,6,8 and 9
2.Close Shave: The procedure of shaving facial hair against the grain during the second-time-over
3.Cutting Stroke: The correct angle of cutting the beard with a straight razor
4.Freehand Stroke: Razor position and stroke used in 6 of the 14 shaving areas 1,3,4,7,11, and 12
5.Neck Shave: Shaving the areas behind the ears, down the sides of the neck and at the back neckline
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1.Once-over Shave: Single lather shave in which the shaving strokes are made across the grain of hair
2.Reverse Backhand Stroke: Razor position and stroke used for making the left sideburn outline and shaving the left side behind the ear during a neck shave
3.Reverse Freehand Stroke: Razor position and stoke used in 4 of the 14 basic shaving areas 5, 10, 13, and 14
4.Second-time-over-shave: A close shave5.Styptic powder: alum powder used to stop bleeding of nicks
and cuts
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HISTORY
• SHAVING WAS INTRODUCED BY MACEDONIANS DURING THE MIDDLE AGES
• BARBERS WERE KNOW AS BARBER SURGEONS
• SYMBOL OF BARBER POLE – RED = BLOOD, BLUE = VEINS, WHITE = BANDAGES & THE BOTTOM SYMBOLIZES THE BASIN USED TO CATCH THE BLOOD DURING A PROCESS KNOWN AS BLOODLETTING
• BARBER IS DERIVED FROM THE LATIN WORD “BARBA” MEANING BEARD
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IMPLEMENTS
• IMPLEMENTS SHOULD ALWAYS BE OF SUPERIOR QUALITY, THE BARBER IS NO BETTER THAN THE TOOLS HE OR SHE USES
• PRINCIPLE IMPLEMENTS USED: RAZOR, SHEARS, CLIPPERS
• ACCESSORIES: HONES, STROPS, COMBS, BRUSHES AND LATHERIZERS
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PARTS OF THE STRAIGHT RAZOR
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BALANCE OF THE RAZOR
• REFERS TO THE RELATIVE WEIGHT OF THE BLADE AS IT RELATES TO THE HANDLE
• PROPER BALANCE – THE WEIGHT OF THE BLADE SHOULD = THAT OF THE HANDLE
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TEMPER
• REFERS TO THE HEAT TREATMENT GIVEN BY THE MANUFACTURER WHICH GIVES THE BLADE A CERTAIN DEGREE OF HARDNESS
• HARD – HOLD AN EDGE LONGEST BUT IS VERY DIFFICULT TO SHARPEN
• SOFT – EASY TO SHARPEN BUT DOES NOT HOLD EDGE VERY LONG
• MEDIUM – MOST POPULAR CHOICE
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SIZE
• REFERS TO THE LENGTH AND WIDTH OF THE BLADE
• THE WIDTH IS MEASURED IN EIGHTS OR SIXTEENTHS OF AN INCH (MOST GENERALLY IN 8THS)
• THE 5/8 AND 9/16 ARE THE TWO MOST COMMON SIZES
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STYLE
• THE STYLE INDICATES ITS SHAPE AND DESIGN
• THE MODERN RAZOR HAS A STRAIGHT, PARALLEL BACK AND EDGE, A ROUND HEAL, A SQUARE POINT, A FLAT OR SLIGHTLY ROUND HANDLE
• TO PREVENT SCRATCHING THE SKIN THE BARBER USUALLY ROUNDS OFF THE SQUARE POINT, BY DRAWING THE POINT OF THE RAZOR ALONG THE EDGE OF THE HONE
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GRIND
•REFERS TO THE SHAPE OF THE BLADE AFTER IT IS GROUND BY THE MFR.
•2 TYPES =
• CONCAVE – WHICH COMES IN FULL, ½ AND ½ CONCAVE
•WEDGE – GOOD FOR COARSE BEARDS, HARD TO SHARPEN
• CONCAVE IS MOST PREFERRED
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FINISH
•THE CONDITION OF THE SURFACE
•3 TYPES=
•PLAIN STEEL
•POLISHED STEEL
•METAL PLATED (NICKEL OR SILVER)
•MOST POPULAR IS POLISHED STEEL (CROCUS) LASTS LONGEST & DOESN’T RUST
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HONES• A HONE IS A RECTANGULAR BLOCK OF ABRASIVE MATERIAL
USED TO SHARPEN A RAZOR
3 TYPES OF HONES:
1. NATURAL HONE- DERIVED FROM ROCK DEPOSITS. THEY MUST BE USED WET (WATER OR LATHER) THEY ARE CALLED “WATER HONES” THEY PUT A VERY SHARP EDGE ON THE RAZOR AND ARE USUALLY BROWNISH IN COLOR
2. SYNTHETIC HONE – MAN MADE PRODUCT; THERE ARE 2 TYPES “SWATTY” & “CARBORUNDUM”. THEY CUT FASTER THAN WATER HONES, CAN BE USED WET OR DRY. THEY GIVE A FINE CUTTING EDGE QUICKLY
3. COMBINATION HONES – 2 SIDED; NATURAL HONE IS GLUED TO A BLOCK OF SYNTHETIC. THE SYNTHETIC WOULD BE USED FIRST & THE NATURAL LAST
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CARE OF HONES
• ALWAYS CLEAN BEFORE AND AFTER USE WITH 70% ALCOHOL
• AFTER SEVERAL USES THE STEEL PARTICLES MUST BE CLEANED FROM THE SURFACE USING PUMICE STONE AND WATER
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HOW TO HONE
• A RAZOR IS HONED ON THE BLOCK USING A FIGURE 8 MOTION
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STROPS/ STROPPING
• A STROP IS INTENDED TO BRING THE RAZOR TO A SMOOTH WETTED EDGE. IT IS USED TO FINISH THE SURFACE OF THE BLADE AFTER IT HAS BEEN SHARPENED
• STROPPING IS THE ART OF SMOOTHING AND SHAPING THE RAZOR’S EDGE INTO A KEEN CUTTING IMPLEMENT
• THERE ARE 5 TYPES OF STROPS
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1.FRENCH OR GERMAN STROP
• USUALLY A COMBINATION STROP W/ LEATHER ON 1 SIDE AND A LINEN ON THE OTHER
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2. CANVAS
• MADE WITH A HIGH QUALITY SILK OR LINEN WOVEN INTO A FINE OR COARSE TEXTURE
• FINE TEXTURE LINEN IS MOST PREFERRED FOR PUTTING A LASTING EDGE ON THE RAZOR
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3.COWHIDE
• AKA – RUSSIAN
• USUALLY MADE OF COWHIDE USING THE RUSSIAN METHOD OF TANNING
• CONSIDERED ONE OF THE BEST IN USE TODAY
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4.HORESHIDE
• 2 TYPES
• A- ORDINARY HORSEHIDE – MEDIUM GRADE AND HAS A FINE SMOOTH GRAIN – NOT RECOMMENDED FOR PROFESSIONAL USE
• B- RUSSIAN SHELL – HIGH QUALITY LEATHER FROM THE RUMP OF THE ANIMAL; THIS IS CONSIDERED THE BEST AND DOES NOT REQUIRE BREAKING IN
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IMITATION LEATHER
• HAS NOT PROVEN SATISFACTORY – AVOID THIS STROP
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CARE OF STROP
• MUST NOT BE FOLDED OR BENT
• SHOULD BE HUNG
• THEY CAN BE TREATED AND CLEANED WITH STROP DRESSING
• ACCUMULATED GRIT SHOULD FIRST BE REMOVED BY RUBBING WITH LATHER
• AFTER LATER, RUB THE STROP DRESSING INTO THE STROP
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USE OF STROP
• FIRST STROKE:
• START STROKE AT THE TOP EDGE OF THE STROP CLOSEST TO THE CHAIR
• DRAW THE RAZOR PERFECTLY FLAT WITH BACK LEADING STRAIGHT OVER THE SURFACE OF THE STROP
• BEAR JUST HEAVILY ENOUGH ON THE STROP TO FEEL THE RAZOR DRAW
• SPEED WILL COME WITH PRACTICE
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USE OF STROP CONT’D
• SECOND STROKE:
• TURN THE RAZOR ON THE BACK OF THE BLADE BY ROLLING IT IN THE FINGERS WITHOUT TURNING THE HAND
• USE A LONG DIAGONAL STROKE WITH EVEN PRESSURE FROM THE HEEL TO THE POINT
• DRAW THE RAZOR AWAY FROM YOU TOWARDS THE CHAIR
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TESTING OF THE RAZOR
• ON A MOISTENED TIP OF THUMB NAIL DRAW THE RAZOR
• A DULL EDGE PRODUCES A DRAWING FEELING
• A PROPERLY EDGED RAZOR THAT IS KEEN WILL TEND TO STICK AND NOT SLIDE ALONG
• IF THE EDGE PRODUCES A DISAGREEABLE SOUND IT IS TOO COURSE AND REQUIRES EXTRA STROPPING
• A PROPERLY EDGED RAZOR SHOULD DIG INTO THE NAIL WITH A SMOOTH AND STEADY GRIP
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THE SHAVE
• IS CLASSIFIED INTO 3 SECTIONS:
• THE PREPARATION
• THE PROCEDURE
• THE FINISH
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PREPARATION
• SANITIZE HANDS
• DRAPE CLIENT
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PROCEDURE
• APPLY HOT TOWEL
• OPEN AND SANITIZE RAZOR
• APPLY SHAVING CREAM USING CUSHION OF FINGERTIPS IN A ROTARY MOVEMENT
• SHAVE THE 14 AREAS USING THE CORRECT STROKES
• HOT/COLD TOWEL
• APPLY ASTRINGENT
• APPLY TALC USING MITT APPLICATION
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FINISH
• REMOVE TOWELS AND DRAPE
• CLEAN UP WORK STATION
• COMB CLIENTS HAIR
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LATHERING – IS A VERY IMPORTANT STEP PRIOR TO SHAVING BECAUSE:
• CLEANS THE FACE BY DISLODGING DIRT
• SOFTENS THE HAIR AND HOLDS IT IN AN ERECT POSITION
• AFFORDS A SMOOTH, FLAT SURFACE FOR THE RAZOR TO GLIDE OVER
• RUB LATHER BRISKLY INTO BEARDED AREA USING ROTARY MOVEMENTS WITH THE CUSHION OF THE FINGERTIPS (ONE HAND ONLY)
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STEAMING
• SOFTENS THE CUTICLE OF THE HAIR
• PROVIDES LUBRICATION BY STIMULATING THE ACTION OF THE OIL GLANDS
• OPENS THE FOLLICLE TO ALLOW FOR A CLOSER SHAVE
• SOOTHS AND RELAXES THE CLIENT
• NEVER APPLY A STEAM TOWEL (OR SHAVE) IF FACE IS SENSITIVE, IRRITATED, CHAPPED, BLISTERED OR COVERED WITH ACNE
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4 STANDARD SHAVING POSITIONS & STROKES
Freehand – face your client, stroke toward yourself #1,3,4,8,11,12
Backhand – stroke away from yourself #2,6,7,9
Reverse Freehand – stand behind client & stroke toward yourself #5,10,13,14
(Reverse Backhand – used only on the left side back of neck )
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INGROWN HAIRS
• HAIRS THAT HAVE GROWN BENEATH THE SKIN CAUSING A LUMP IN WHICH PUS FORMS. USUALLY CAUSED BY VERY CLOSE SHAVING OR THE RUBBING OF A SHIRT COLLAR
• CURLY HAIR PEOPLE ARE MORE PRONE TO INGROWN HAIRS
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