“The plan is: there is no plan,” that was the agreement my partner Rolando

and I made when we decided to set sail on board Malikalalou. He’s the sai-

lor and initiator of this journey that has become our life.

If there’s one thing I learned early on it’s that there’s more than sailing when

living on a boat.

What we’ve enjoyed the most since is the ability to venture into remote re-

gions in the comfort of our own home.

The first such destination was Senegal. Our first secluded anchorage was in

the arms of the Sine Saloum delta. From there we visited villages where re-

sidents commute for days on donkey carts or on foot to reach the nearest

community. We celebrated Christmas under the stars with fishermen who

shared stories of their villages and tribes.

From there we sailed to Cape Verde. Many sailors miss this destination and

rather catch the trade winds to cross the Atlantic from the Canary Islands.

While waiting for the right weather window Rolando kite-surfed a spot he

had all to himself. I enjoyed discovering markets and living a culture that has

a mix of African and European influences.

When the trade winds finally set in, it took us two weeks to reach the An-

tilles.

THE CARIBBEAN

Despite being one of the biggest tourist hubs in the world, the Caribbean

still boasts some of Mother Nature’s wonders. But as Troy, our guide in Tri-

nidad insisted there is one important lesson to be learned from islander:

“To enjoy the Islands you gotta learn how to lime, you know, chill like a

n

Sara and Rolando:the world’s oceans as their garden…

In three years and half way round the world, Malikalalou has visitedan incredible number of absolutely perfect anchorages...

Sara and Rolando: ‘happy he who, like Ulysses...’

g

Multihulls World - SE 5

Text and Photos: Sara Khoury

lime in a cocktail”.

We perfected our liming routine across the Caribbean. On the shores

of Trinidad we watched leatherback turtles lay their eggs.

In a less traveled part of the Caribbean Sea we sailed in a region rich

in natural and cultural beauty.

The Kuna Yala archipelago is centuries behind the glitz and glamour of

its Caribbean neighborhood. Also known as San Blas, the 365 islets

peppering the Atlantic sea between Panama and Colombia are more

than just white sand islands surrounded by turquoise water. It incu-

bates a culture that has managed to survive the test of time.

The Kuna society, with an approximate population of 37,000 people,

is a matrilineal one in which women are revered. They are the ones to

ask for their husband’s hand in marriage, offer the house, they are in

charge of the family and its assets. Time is needed to understand the

Kuna culture and enjoy their home.

That’s why some sailors have made it their residence.

After two circumnavigations and thirty years of sailing, Dug and Mary

returned and set anchor permanently.

Dug told us: “even in the South Pacific you won’t find a place like

here.” Many sailors agree with Dug that Kuna Yala “has the best of

what sailors are looking for: culture, disconnection, islands, turquoise

water, it’s a hurricane free area and we’re not far from civilization.”

PANAMA, THE DOOR FOR THE PACIFIC

From Panama we crossed to the Pacific and sailed to an archipelago I

couldn’t wait to discover.

In the Galapagos, humans and animals mingle with ease. Anchorages

are swamped with sea lions, water iguanas, various types of rays, pen-

guins’ endemic to the Galapagos, sharks, blue and red footed boo-

bies. Swimming with sea lions rates among the best experiences we’ve

ever had. We learned quickly that the alpha male is not to be messed

with. He will not hesitate to chase you and even attempt to bite if you

get a little too close to his territory or harem of female companions.

The females and the babies like to have fun. Capture their attention

and they’ll gladly mimic your moves. I couldn’t leave before seeing

hammerhead sharks. Only 10 minutes after diving to 20 meters a

school of hammerheads encircled us. They lingered in the currents that

drastically changed from freezing cold to boiling hot. Hanging on to

rocks as these currents swung me around was all part of the expe-

rience.

From the Galapagos we set sail on our longest passage to a new sai-

ling playground known as French Polynesia.

In the depths of Fakarava in the Tuamotu lays a Disneyland for divers.

One area is called the wall of sharks. I had to see it to believe it. Hun-

dreds of black and white tip sharks form a wall in a canyon of infinite

forms and colors of corals and sea life. I felt I was in Alice in Won-

derland.

Situated west of the Tuamotu are the most famous islands of French Po-

lynesia: Tahiti and Bora Bora. One island that doesn’t share the lime-

light of tourist frenzy is Maupiti, Bora Bora’s little sister. It is the more

mysterious of the two. It's laid-back and has more of a local feel. We

had planned to make it an overnight stay but ended up extending it

to a week.

The South Pacific was the playground we imagined it would be. And

like in any playground friendships are made. At nearly every destina-

SARA AND ROLANDO

Since he was a kid Rolando, 45, has dreamt of livingthis life style. Everything he did was to reach thisgoal. He built a business that he now manages fromthe boat. When we met he told me of his plan andI, 30, agreed to join in. I’m now a freelancer. Rolando is half Lebanese and half Italian. I'm half Lebanese and half Canadian.

We started our trip in June 2008 from Les Sablesd'Olonne where we picked up the boat. From therewe went to the western part of the Med. (Corsica,Sardinia and the Balearics) We visited Morocco before crossing into the Atlantic where we visitedthe Canary Islands, Senegal, Cape Verde then sailed to the Caribbean. From there we passedthrough the Panama Canal and into the South Pacific…

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The couple made their home aboardMalikalalou, this Privilège 445...

“ When the trade winds f ina l ly set in, it took us two weeks

to reach the Anti l les . “

tion we befriended a

local who brought life

to our adventures.

If it wasn’t for Marc and

Blandine’s hospitality we

would not have spent

our entire trip to the

Marquesas in Fatu Hiva.

They showed us how

they still live close to

their ancestral roots.

Marc’s technique of

tying a hook for a better

catch, his tips for drying bananas and fish as well as Blandine’s manioc au

lait de coco recipe have enriched life aboard Malikalalou.

In Suwarrov it was

Appi and James

that made the

difference. They

were the part-time managers and the only residents of the atoll. Their kind-

ness, sense of humor and love of nature brought life to the atoll. They took

care of the atoll while showing sailors a good time. Appi was in charge of

the daily activities such as coconut crab hunting, fishing and snorkeling.

James made sure all was ready for the potluck.

Some friends had to be left behind while others became a big part of the

sailing journey. When we began our trip sailors told us that the world we

embarked on is small. It wasn’t until we crossed to the Pacific that we reali-

zed how small.

By the end of the 2010 sailing season a close-knit community of sailors

had been formed. Anchorages became floating neighborhoods. We prepa-

red dinners and celebrated birthdays and holidays. We exchanged recipes,

advice on boat repairs, weather forecasts and information on destinations.

We changed plans to meet so we could kite surf, dive, snorkel, kayak and

simply have fun.

AND NOW?

We’re in Fiji now and it’s the beginning of a new sailing season. Friends are

reunited, new friends are made and plans are in the making. It’s been three

years since we set sail from Corsica and have reached what was supposed

to be the end of our journey. But it seems it’s only the beginning

n

One of the coldest days experienced aboardMalikalalou, between Morocco and

the Canaries.

“ Maupit i : we had p lanned to make it

an overn ight stay but ended up extending it

to a week… “

PASSAGES

Some sailors enjoy passages more than others. Mostsailors will agree that it’s probably the toughest partof the sailing life. If a passage is timed with a goodweather window, the chances are it will be rewarding.

Multihulls World - SE 5

Breathtaking scenery in the Virgin Islands... We can understand why so many people dream of sailing there.

WHY A CATAMARAN

Before choosing a catamaran we

had always sailed on mono-hulls.

We found that the multi-hull is bet-

ter suited to a life at sea. It’s spa-

cious and much more stable than a

sailboat. It also allows us to have

more privacy when we have

guests. The cockpit is well protec-

ted and having two engines is al-

ways better than one. If one hull

gets damaged there is the second

to keep the boat afloat.

Choosing a boat is very personal.

We were looking for quality and

comfort and found it in a Privilege

445. It has taken us three years to

adjust and customize certain com-

forts that the shipyard did not

consider. It is now the way we have

always wanted and we proudly call

it home.

ijklijklijkli

A kite-surfing session at Tahaa for Rolando...

The Kuna women are revered in their so-ciety. It is they who request marriage...

“ In the Galapagos, humans and animals mingle with ease.

Anchorages are swamped with sea lions, water iguanas,

various types of rays, penguins… “

The famous Baie des Vierges, at Fatu Hiva in the Marquesas. Anexceptional stopover with exceptional encounters.

v

The stopover in Senegal, with here, a visit to aschool, remains engraved in the couple’s memo-

ries. Unforgettable encounters.

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