river city november/december 2014

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Page 1: River City November/December 2014
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December 19–28, 2014 Carpenter Theatre

TICKETS START AT $20 800-514-3849 OR ETIX.COM

richmondballet.com

Additional Support Provided By

RICHARD S. REYNOLDS FOUNDATION

E. RHODES & LEONA B. CARPENTER FOUNDATION

With Major Support From

Page 5: River City November/December 2014

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INLIGHT RICHMOND The Art of Light

RICHMOND’S RAILROADS Uncover Hidden Secrets

SLEEPWALKERS Discussing their debut album Greenwood Shade

IN SEARCH OF International Dishes

RAISING THE BAR International Cocktails

Davy Jones sits down with Sleepwalkers to discuss their upcoming debut full-length release, Greenwood Shade.

Cover Photo by Sergey Golub

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16 CONTENTSNovember/December 2014

PHOTO BY MIGUEL BETANCOURT

COURTESY OF 1708 GALLERY

RichmondNavigator.com 5November/December 2014

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THE ART OF LIGHT: INLIGHT RICHMOND ILLUMINATES MINDS AND CITY SPACES

BY JODY RATHGEB

S CIENCE TELLS US that light is merely electro-magnetic radiation of a certain wavelength. Art tells us more: Light is a celebration, a

mental lift, a metaphor, and the medium for a unique artistic event, InLight Richmond.

Since 2008, InLight has illuminated one area of the city as natural light fades toward the winter solstice. For the seventh InLight on Nov. 21 at dusk, Monroe Park will light up with projections, performances, sculpture, and interactive projects in a free one-night celebratory event.

InLight is both an exhibition and a commu-nity program, explains Emily Smith, executive director of 1708 Gallery, which organizes the event. First created to note the 30th anniversary of the gallery, it was designed with the public in mind. “There was a shared desire for it not to be a fancy gala but something to give back to the

community,” says Smith, who served on the first planning committee in 2008 prior to taking her current job at 1708 Gallery.

The idea was borrowed from Nuit Blanche in Paris, a free dusk-to-dawn art show that continues to use light as a medium in many of its exhibits. The first InLight coincided with Richmond’s First Friday in the Broad Street neighborhood of 1708 Gallery. “The first year was such a success that we decided to continue it,” notes Smith, but its venue has since changed yearly. InLight has highlighted Shockoe Slip, the riverside near Tredegar, and the Canal Walk, among other spots.

JURIED EXHIBITThe exhibit component of InLight is juried, with calls for proposals casting a wide net. Some artists

have “ juried in” several times. The Medeology Collective, with faculty members from the Sa-vannah College of Art and Design as its core group, for example, will be presenting its fourth project at the Monroe Park event. The three core members – Kelley McClung, James Gladman, and Alessandro Imperato – do similar projects in the United States and abroad, so InLight is a good fit with their work.

“InLight is a special public art event and we are delighted that we have been able to perform so many times in Richmond with the 1708 Gallery,” they write. “Often our work goes through many forms in one night even though there is a core con-cept and aesthetic structure. Our improvisational methods lead to a dialogue between ourselves and the audience as the performance progresses. It often surprises us at times.”

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There are surprises, too, in the artists chosen for the event. “We encourage folks who would not normally identify as artists,” says Smith, naming teams from schools of engineering as an example. “It’s a very democratic process.”

To ensure that democracy, the show’s juror is from outside the Richmond art community. Juror for 2014 is Denise Markonish, curator at the Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Arts. Smith explains that in addition to reviewing the proposals, the juror visits the site chosen for the year. “We encourage work that is site-responsive,” she says. In its call for artists, the gallery includes documentation about where the exhibit will take place, including a history. Monroe Park, with its rich connections to Civil War history, public entertainment, and political controversy, offers plenty of inspiration for the 2014 artists.

LIGHT, TIME, LOGISTICSThe use of light as a medium is expected, but “more important than working in light is working in a constrained time,” Smith continues. “The artists

have to be able to install their work in one day.” And because the exhibit duration is just one night, it is as ephemeral as – well, light.

Logistics are complicated and essential, re-quiring projectors, power sources, and technical expertise. This comes from Boitnott Visual Com-munications of Midlothian, which visits the site to help identify needs, positions, and equipment needed. The company also helps with an electrical plan for the exhibit. “It’s amazing what they can do, and the advice is pro bono,” Smith says, although Boitnott is paid for its equipment rental and instal-lation. “It makes the logistics more streamlined.”

Members of the Medeology Collective com-pare participation in InLight to “ joining the circus. It gets you moving, excited, worried, terrified at times, exhilarated – but it also bonds the group of us as we tackle another seemingly impossible idea.”

COMMUNITY INVOLVEMENTBeyond the magic of the juried exhibit, InLight is also a community event that has been embraced

by art lovers. This is especially true of the lantern parade that opens the show. Anyone with a lantern of their own making is welcome to join the parade, which has been so popular that 1708 Gallery now does lantern workshops in various places starting early in the year. Those who want to join in at the last minute can also make lanterns at the event prior to the parade.

“It’s a lovely way to start the night, very grassroots,” says Smith. “Families and kids really love it, and it’s a way to collaborate with a lot of organizations and people in town. It’s really one of the greatest parts of InLight. It inaugurates the event.”

The community can also get involved by voting on the People’s Choice Award. Each installation is assigned a code that visitors send in a text message. The winner is announced the next morning.

InLight Richmond will take place in Monroe Park on Nov. 21 beginning at 7 p.m. Lantern-mak-ing begins at 6:30 p.m., and the lantern parade will take place at 7:30. For more information, visit 1708gallery.org.

‘BRIDGE OF SIGNS’: BEYOND THE SCREEN?

INLIGHT, 2013 MEDEOLOGY COLLECTIVE

For Inlight 2013, the Medeology Collective created a projection mapped video installation onto one side of the canal bridge at the Shockoe Canal Walk area in Richmond. Imagery of crowds was mixed with a live video collage in an interactive public art performance for the evening. The project involved the use of three X-box Kinect gaming sensors to pick up the crowd’s bodies that were projected onto the bridge with the collage aesthetic. “Bridge of Signs” is a reference to the famous “Bridge of Sighs” in Venice, Italy.

Visit RichmondNavigator.com/Entertainment to see a live video of the Medeology Collective’s work at InLight 2013.

RichmondNavigator.com 7November/December 2014

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SCATTERED AROUND RICHMOND ARE CLUES TO ITS RAILROAD PAST –

YOU JUST NEED TO KNOW WHERE TO LOOK.

The first train in Virginia – the second commercial train in the country – was The Chesterfield and Manchester Railroad (C&M), completed in 1831. It started at the Mid-lothian Coal Mines and ended at Ancarrow’s Landing, the port of Manchester. Even though the first steam-powered locomotive was demonstrated in 1828, the C&M Railroad was powered by gravity, winding downhill and then pulled back to the mines by animals. The best evidence of the C&M railroad today is a small sign at Ancarrow’s Landing.

The C&M Railroad didn’t really come in to Richmond, since the south side of the river was the separate city of Manchester at the time. The first train to span the James River into Richmond was the Richmond-Petersburg Railroad (R&P). The bridge was completed in September of 1838. It was 2,844 feet long and 60 feet above the James River and constructed primarily out of pine planks on stone pillars. A sign at Tredegar Iron Works says, “The bridge seemed ‘air built,’ and perhaps dangerous to many Richmonders.” The line was 22 miles long, but it didn’t go all of the way in to Petersburg until the Civil War. It originally terminated at Pocahontas Station just outside of Petersburg, on the north side of the Appomattox River, forcing the use of local lines and local labor to get the cargo from one line to the other.

Beyond being one of the main cargo lines during the Civil War, the bridge acted almost like a bookend to RVA’s role in the war. First, it carried Jefferson Davis into the new capital of the Confederacy and it was also one of the bridges burned during the evacuation fire that caused 800-1,000 buildings to be destroyed. The sturdy stone piers are still in the river and on Brown’s Island. Those piers were used when the bridge was rebuilt just after the Civil War. When in 1882 sparks from a train burned the bridge a second time, the piers became part of the third bridge. The bridge was rebuilt again for a fourth time in the early 1900s on concrete piers that are also still in the water.

On the south side of Brown’s Island, the line intersecting the former R&P Bridge is the C&O Viaduct. The elevated railway is about three miles long and unique because it is the top of the only triple train crossing in the world. It’s located on the south side of the

Canal Walk, just south of where 16th Street should intersect Dock Street. But 16th Street doesn’t intersect Dock because there isn’t a 16th Street in downtown Richmond.

Part of the reason there isn’t a street between 15th Street and 17th Street is Main Street Station. Main Street Station opened in 1901, when it became the elegant entrance into downtown. It would remain Richmond’s “main” station until the Union Station, or Broad Street Station, opened in 1919. Besides being the new thing, Broad Street Station had a lot going for it, primarily space. Not having the space restrictions of downtown allowed more development.

On Jan. 6, 1977 – 58 years to the day that the first train pulled into Broad Street Station – Gov. Mills Godwin dedicated the building as the Science Museum of Virginia.

Main Street Station has gotten another chance as well. The station originally closed in 1975. Since then, it has been a shopping mall and city offices, but it reopened as a train station in 2003.

To many, Main Street Station is merely a welcome sign that they have arrived in RVA as they pass the ornate, orange clock tower on Interstate 95. Standing in front of Main Street Station, it seems odd that I-95 was built so close to such a beautiful building. As the host of History Replays Today, The Richmond History Podcast, I have asked more than one expert on the show the same question. While they all have slightly different answers, the general consensus seems to be that the designers of I-95 would have been surprised that Main Street Station would still be here today. They were building an interstate highway system, after all.

Cars have not made trains obsolete yet, and even if they do, we have some wonderful reminders of Richmond’s train history. Many more than these few are scattered throughout the city.

Jeff Majer is the host and producer of History Replays Today, The Richmond History Podcast. Follow History Replays Today on Facebook, Twitter @historyreplays, or on Tumblr. He is also a partner at River City Segs, The Premier Segway Tour Company in Richmond, and a loving father and husband.

UNCOVERING THE HIDDEN SECRETS OF RICHMOND’S RAILROADS BY JEFF MAJER

Pictured: Main Street StationCourtesy of the Library of Congress

RichmondNavigator.com 9

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Could you tell something special was going on when you were recording Greenwood Shade?

Michael York: We had a lot of time to think about songs and structure and arrangements, but when it got down to it, we had to knock it out in a couple weeks.

Alex De Jong: It happened too fast for us to sit on it and realize even what we thought about the record, let alone what anybody else would think.

MY: We had the deadline.

ADJ: We just booked a release show. “July 11, let’s do it.” It was mid-May and we hadn’t even started the record yet. We [said], “We’ve got to knock it out now.” That was when the band really felt like it was coming to be something special.

Where did you record the album?

ADJ: It was about 50-50 – a lot of the basic tracks were

COMING TO A YEAR-END, top-ten-albums list near you: the debut full-length release from Sleepwalkers, Greenwood Shade. Using a tape machine once owned by Whitney Houston, preamps graced by Van Halen, the ability to swap instruments at will, and a highly developed understanding of songcraft born of a shared apprecia-tion for music made from the 1960s to the 1980s, the four-piece of Brad Heath, Alex De Jong, and brothers Michael and Austin York made what many consider the best collection of songs to hit Richmond in 2014. Fans will have the opportunity to see those songs come to life in a pair of back-to-back November shows – at The Broadberry on Nov. 14 and Hardywood Park Craft Brewery on Nov. 15. In anticipation of those performances, I visited the group’s home studio and talked with Michael and Alex about what it’s like to have such an impactful album in the rearview mirror.

recorded at White Star Sound, which is a studio I work at, but a lot of the vocals were recorded here. That’s what was fun about the record – “Let’s see what we can pull off wherever we are.”

What’s it been like playing these songs live?

MY: We’re trying to tinker with different sounds and effects… It’s such a layered album, we can’t pull it all off, so we’re looking for bigger sounds, more interesting sounds, breaking it down, deconstructing things. “What don’t you need from the album?” That’s where we’re at.

ADJ: A lot of the vibe on the record came from the production, and it’s hard to nail the same tones – especially since there are a lot of different tones on the record. Playing the same drum set, same guitar on every tune live doesn’t translate nearly as well. We’ve been trying to figure out whether [to] rearrange

them and pull them off in a different way.

What about the album gives you the most satisfaction?

ADJ: Hearing the tunes completed was really amazing, because we never demoed [them] out. We immediately laid down the basic tracks and started layering, and if something wasn’t working at that moment, we [said], “Whatever, let’s move on and try something else.” We were really picky about tones, for the most part, but being picky didn’t mean taking a long time.

MY: You don’t want your opinions to become a crutch. I think we’re good at understanding the vibe of a song, knocking it out as quickly as possible, but still being picky. If that whole record was a painstaking masterpiece, it wouldn’t have felt natural.

Have you set a deadline for the next album?

MY: No deadline. We’ve got about six songs that are in baby, first-trimester stages. I’d like to see it come out earlier next year, maybe spring.

For an extended version of this interview, visit RichmondNavigator.com.

BACKSTAGE WITH

BY DAVY JONES

sleepwalkers

You can purchase Sleepwalkers debut release, Greenwood Shade, on iTunes and find more information about the band here:Facebook.com/WeAreSleepwalkersSleepwalkersBandcamp.Bandcamp.com

OPPOSITE PAGE: SERGEY GOLUB // ABOVE: JOEY WHARTON

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International Dishes

1. SHRIMP TIBS & AWAZE TIBS PORTRAIT HOUSE

PORTRAIT HOUSE RECENTLY merged with the Nile Ethiopian Restaurant, staying true to tradition by serving family-style meals. All entrées come with a side, chef ’s choice. Pictured are Shrimp Tibs, shrimp sautéed with onions and bell pepper, seasoned with a light and radiant spice; and Awaze Tibs, lean beef strips sautéed with onions and jalapeños, spiced with Awaze (red chili pepper sauce with berbere, oil, and water). Both entrées are served with Misir Wat (red lentils) and Gomen (collard greens) as sides. In the center is a fresh tomato salad. Meals are served traditionally on a bed on Injera (a crepe-like bread) and with a side of Injera, to be used as the utensil.

COCKTAIL: New house specialty, Gin Tej, a play on the classic Bee’s Knees but inspired by Ethiopian Honeywine (Tej). Commonwealth Gin, Tej, honey syrup, lemon and angostura.

2907 W. Cary St. | 804-278-9800 | Portrait-House.com

2. SAUTÉED RAINBOW TROUT BISTRO BOBETTE

THE ACCOLADES AND AWARDS coming from this French restaurant – Best Chef, Excellence in Service, and Outstanding Wine List from Wine Spectator – are nothing compared to the praise your palate will be singing from appetizer to dessert. Bistro Bobette boasts a Parisian chef/owner and authentic French comfort food. Their sautéed rainbow trout is served with French string beans and almond brown butter sauce.

1209 E. Cary St. | 804-225-9116 | BistroBobette.com

4. CHEESE CROQUETTE BRUX’L

AUTHENTIC BELGIAN CUISINE delights diners at Brux’l Café, paired with beverage of your choosing, including a grand selection of Belgian beer. Whet your appetite with their Croquettes de Fromage, traditional Belgian cheese croquettes that combine the light crunch of the breading with the luscious, rich, melted cheese waiting within. The tradition in Belgium is to squeeze the lemon on the top to enhance the flavor of the cheese – making what’s perfect even better.

COCKTAIL: Blue Laurent, made with watermelon vodka, blue Curacao, Malibu rum, gin, and a Touch of Jared, Brux’l bartender

1731 W. Main St. | 804-355-3683 | BruxlCafe.com

3. DORADO FISH TACOS LITTLE MEXICO

SINCE 2007, THIS FAMILY-OWNED RESTAURANT has been serving authentic Mexican cuisine paired with refreshing cocktails, using traditional ideas and vision to create a modern restaurant with an immaculate, relaxing atmosphere. The Dorado fish tacos are made with lightly fried, beer-battered Mahi Mahi, topped with chipotle slaw, fresh avocado, and black beans. This dish was inspired by Mexico’s northwest coast with a twist of Mexican street tacos.

1328 W. Cary St. | 804-525-4216 | LittleMexicoVA.com

IN SEARCH OF

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5. FILET MIGNON PHO HAIKU SUSHI & LOUNGE

THIS ASIAN FUSION RESTAURANT features more than just great sushi and saké! Their feature dish, a traditional Vietnamese pho noodle soup, uses a recipe from Chef Hai’s mother – it doesn’t get more authentic than that! The southern Vietnamese, Saigon-style recipe features made-from-scratch broth, simmered slowly for the richest possible flavor, as well as a prime cut of beef. The soup is served with basil, scallion, red onion, and lime. You’ll think you’re on the other side of the world!

2222 E. Cary St. | 804-658-0621 | HaikuRVA.com

7. SPAGHETTI A LA SCOGLIERA & TORRETTA LA GROTTA

ONE STEP INSIDE THE DOOR off the cobblestone street of Shockoe Slip and you’re transported to Northern Italy. Smell the roasted garlic and savor the rich f lavors of innovative Italian cuisine paired with one of the f ine wines that earned La Grotta the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. Dine on the delightful Spaghetti a la Scogliera, spaghetti with mixed shellf ish in a fradiavolo sauce, or the Torretta, a tower of homemade mozzarella, tomato and marinated eggplant with oregano, fresh basil, and a touch of extra virgin olive oil.

1218 E. Cary St. | 804-644-2466 | LaGrottaRistorante.com

6. SEAFOOD PAELLA TORERO TAPAS BAR AND GRILL

COMBINING AUTHENTIC SPANISH TAPAS and family-style dining, Torero offers diners roughly 40 tapas, ranging from sugared almonds, truff le deviled eggs, oysters, soft shell crab, and Serrano ham, as well as paella and entrées – New York Strip with Cabreles cheese, peppercorn brandy sauce, & root vegetable puree; seared tuna loin with anchovy caper aioli & cucumber foam; and more. The featured paella is an authentic Spanish dish made of Calaspara rice, saffron, herbs, and fresh seafood, garnished with lemon – it looks as amazing as it tastes ! Strong, rich aromas f il l the dining room each time one is served.

1409 E. Cary St. | 804-643-0911 | ToreroRVA.com

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WANT TO SEE MOREINTERNATIONAL DISHES?

FLIP THE MAGAZINE TO PAGE 37,AND FIND EVEN MORE ONLINE AT

RICHMONDNAVIGATOR.COM/FLAVOR.

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“The drink,” Miller says, “is named after a French World War I field gun because of its kick. It is

tart, somewhat.”

French 75

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IMAGINE YOU’RE lounging in the middle of nowhere, about an hour outside of Reykjavik, Iceland, in the Silfra Bar, located in the modern ION Luxury Adventure Hotel. As you sip on a cocktail, no doubt made with Reyka Vodka, you gaze out of the

f loor-to-ceiling windows and take in the show for the evening: the northern lights.

Perhaps a tropical bar just off the coast of Jamaica is more your cup of rum. Sitting on stilts in Parottee Bay, less than a mile from the shore, this thatched-roof Caribbean bar may be one of the coolest on earth (or so some say). Just get a local fisherman to give you a lift out here, to

Floyd’s Pelican Bar. Enjoy snorkeling before lunch, then dive in for the specialty of the house, the Pelican Perfection.

Or, picture this: You’re perched 63 stories above the streets of Bangkok, enjoying a Hangovertini, created in honor of The Hangover Part II, which was filmed there. It’s the Sky Bar at Lebua, offering what The New York Times called “the most stunning rooftop bar you’ll ever see.” Or, in my case, most likely, it’s the most stunning bar I’ ll never see.

While I can’t give you firsthand experience about any of these fantastic desti-nations, I can tell you a bit about four very cool River City bars where you can relax with an international beverage. Read on. There may be a couple of surprises ahead.

InternationalCocktails

R A I S I N G T H E B A R

b y S t e v e C o o k p h o t o s b y M i g u e l B e t a n c o u r t

Can Can Brasserie3120 W. CARY ST. 804-358-727CANCANBRASSERIE.COM

There’s nothing stuffy about French dining at Can Can Brasserie in Carytown. But, if you go just for the fun, festive atmosphere, you’ll get all that and much more, including some really good food and exceptional service. The friendly, knowledgeable staff includes very talented bartenders, such as Na-than Miller, who not only mixed our tasty French 75 cocktail, but gave us a little history lesson to boot.

“The drink,” Miller says, “is named after a French World War I field gun because of its kick. It is tart, somewhat.”

The main components of the French 75 are Champagne and Cognac. Gin can also be used as a substitute for the Cognac.

“The first recorded incidence of the drink’s name was in a cocktail book released in 1930,” Miller says. “However, drinks including the same ingredients are recorded as early as the late 1800s.”

When I asked about an appetizer recommenda-tion to complement the drink, Miller said, “This cocktail can be paired with many of the things that Champagne can be paired with. The bright, bubbly, crisp flavors pair well with richer fish, fried or smoked seafood, and chicken dishes.” On our visit, we enjoyed the crispy oysters, which, in my

opinion, made for a delightful pairing.The folks at Can Can truly do “raise the bar”

when it comes to providing an excellent seasonal cocktail list, mixed by a well-informed staff.

“It is a 100 percent collaborative effort where each bartender develops a couple of drinks. We then test, critique, and refine the cocktails un-til we have a list we’re all satisfied with,” Miller says of their beverage program. “Our entire staff prides itself on the fact that we can work together to manage such a large, high-volume restaurant and still give personal service to each guest, even during a Saturday night rush.”

And, yes, if you go on a Saturday, or virtually any evening, you will find the place filled with happy guests, but what could be more of a rush than being part of a lively Carytown crowd, enjoying the food, drink, and atmosphere at Can Can Brasserie.

Continental divide2501 W. MAIN ST. 804-359-9690 EATDIVIDE.COM

Although the name Continental Divide might not immediately conjure up images of international adventure and intrigue, one look at the well-stocked bar’s diverse Tequila selections will convince you that this new Tex-Mex restaurant offers a bounty of south-of-the-border concoctions.

The Richmond restaurant is owned by Don-nie Barrett (general manager) and Chas Webster (marketing). Both men worked previously at the original Continental Divide in Charlottesville. They loved the place so much that they convinced the owner that Richmond deserved its own Continental Divide. He agreed and brought them in as partners for the Richmond operation.

On our visit, we enjoyed what turned out to be just a tad more than a sampling (it was too good to waste) of the restaurant’s Espolon Reposado Special Margarita.

In addition to sharing an amazing margarita, Barrett also shared a little of the history of the drink. “The exact origin and inventor of the margarita is unknown,” he said. “One of the earliest stories is of the margarita being invented in 1938 by Carlos ‘Danny’ Herrera at his restaurant, Rancho La Gloria, halfway between Tijuana and Rosarito, Mexico.” Supposedly, it was created for customer and former Ziegfeld dancer Marjorie King,

Can Can’s happy hour is from 5 until

7 p.m., draft beer is $4 and highballs are $3.50.

And, says Miller, “Thanks to a rotating list [on hors d’ouevres, specialty cock-tails, wines, and craft beers], there’s go-ing to be a night that any bar guest can get a deal on something they love.”

HAPPY HOUR

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who was allergic to many spirits, but not to tequila.Of the prime ingredient in our special margarita,

Barrett told me, “Espolon Reposado is spicy with a hint of caramel fudge. It’s full bodied with rich roasted agave, sweet tropical fruit, brown spices, and vanilla. It has a long, spicy finish, and blends really well with our house-made margarita mix.” In addition to the Tequila and the house mix, the drink also includes Cointreau and a splash of fresh lime juice.

Now you’re probably thinking, “What’s a great margarita without some nachos?” As for the one we had, it would still be a fantastic drink, but the expe-rience was definitely enhanced by the chili nachos, perhaps some of the finest I’ve ever enjoyed, especially when topped with one or both of the restaurant’s house-made, habanero-based hot sauces. The first, called “Wait a Minute,” tones down the heat with a sweet, delectable mango sauce added. The second sauce, Barrett warned me, “is called ‘Danger.’ It’s exactly what it says. If you can’t handle the heat, make sure you ask for a pumpkin muffin to cool your mouth down.”

Offering over 80 different Tequilas along with Southwestern comfort foods at very reasonable prices, the Continental Divide is a welcome addition to the Fan. Donnie Barrett says it best: “We are all about having good food, good spirits, and lots of fun!”

Comfort200 W. BROAD ST. 804-780-0004 COMFORTRVA.COM

Both Comfort as well as the final stop in our search for great international drinks are restaurants that would likely not come to mind when one is trying to add a little international flavor to their cocktail. And that is perhaps why we chose to include them – that and the fact that they’re both wonderful restaurants, each featuring its own extraordinary mixologist.

Comfort, as virtually every foodie in town is aware, has been a popular Jackson Ward dining spot for 12 years.

Derek Salermo, who lists his position at Comfort as “rex bibendi” (you look it up) is as knowledgeable and personable a guy as you’d care to sit across any bar from. He prepared for us a truly international drink, much more so than one might expect to find in a cozy little eatery that specializes in Southern comfort foods.

The drink is called Neptune’s Daughter, and the history of its primary ingredient, aquavit, could make for an interesting full-length movie. It’s a spirit, Saler-

mo tells me, that is closely associated with the Scandi-navian culture. Its history goes back nearly 500 years.

“Aquavit,” Salermo says, “is essentially a flavored vod-ka. It is distilled from grain or potatoes. The one I used is a linie: a Norwegian aquavit which is barrel aged at sea.”

In fact, the name “linie,” or “linje,” is so named after the tradition of sending oak barrels of aquavit on ships from Norway bound for Australia and back again, thereby passing the equator (“linje”) twice before being bottled.

Can you get any more international than that? Well, when it comes to Neptune’s Daughter, the answer is yes. Salermo explains: “Also in this cocktail are Italian vermouth, French Crème de Mûre, and American Herbsaint.” It’s virtually the U.N. in a glass.

Salermo chose to pair the drink with one of my favorite Comfort appetizers, the Surry sausage. It tru-ly makes for an excellent combination for the palate.

“Our Surry sausage,” he says, “comes from Ed-wards Farm in Surry, Virginia. The blackberries and herbaceous notes of the aquavit go very well with the rich smoked pork flavor, while the lemon and absinthe bring enough bright acid to cut through the fat.”

For those who, perhaps, have never visited Com-fort, Salermo describes it well: “We are a well-exe-cuted Southern ‘meat and three.’” You may want to look that one up, too. “Our bar features craft beer, craft cocktails with house-made syrups and bitters,

Old World and New World wines, hundreds of whiskies, and everything else booze nerds love.”

Lucy’s restaurant404 N. 2ND ST. 804-562-1444 LUCYS2ST.COM

Lucy’s Restaurant, the creation of chef Jason Lucy and his wife, Amanda, is one of the newest additions to Jackson Ward’s burgeoning dining

Monday through Friday from 5 until 7 p.m., with discounted pricing on beer, wine, margaritas, and food.

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Daily from 5 until 7 p.m. Appetizers at the bar are half off. Also rotating cocktail selection for $5, wine glass roulette at $5, and $2 off draft beers.

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Espolon Reposado Special Margarita

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From 3:30 until 6 each afternoon, with $2 off draft beers and a buck off cocktails and glasses of wine, at the bar and farm table only.

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scene. The couple is wowing guests with fantas-tic food, especially their steaks. One hundred percent of the beef comes directly from Monrovia Farms in Westmoreland County. The farm, owned by Amanda Lucy’s family, specializes in grass-fed, grain-finished, hormone-free cattle.

While Arthur Grant, the bar manager at Lucy’s, used the same tequila (Espolon Reposado) as did Donnie Barrett at Continental Divide, he created a drink with an entirely different taste.

Featuring the tequila as well as Los Amantes mezcal, the Sangre Del Toro, Grant says, “is a smokey and tannic cocktail inspired by a tradi-tional Sangria. Both mezcal and tequila come from Mexico and are made from the heart of the agave plant.”

In contrasting the tastes of the two liquors, Grant says, “The most notable difference is that during production of mezcal, the agave is smoked prior to brewing and distillation. The agave in tequila is usually cooked with steam. The analog I often use is that tequila is to whisky as mezcal is to scotch. Both mezcal and scotch are the smoky cousins of their counterparts.”

Taking advantage of the restaurant ’s rep-utation for phenomenal beef dishes, Grant chose the meat and cheese platter for our ap-petizer pairing. “The Sangre del Toro pairs nicely with the meat and cheese plate,” Grant says, “because the smoky and tart notes of the cocktail provide a lovely counterbalance to the concentrated f lavors of the dry-aged beef and tart cheese.”

The dry-aged beef, which Grant referred to as a beef bacon, was outstanding. And, from what I’m hearing, Lucy’s is garnering outstanding reviews.

“I find the bar’s most impressive feature,” Grant told me, “is that it allows for a more intimate experience. With only eight seats, it’s difficult for me to get too far from any bar guest. Also my training at Acacia Mid-town, Lemaire, and McCormack’s Whiskey Grill have given me a diverse realm of experiences to draw from creatively. The majority of my training has come from Michelle Shriver of Dutch and Company who continues to gain accolades for her existing bar program there.”

Neptune’s Daughter

Sangre Del Toro

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